Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content on 10/14/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 likes
    I found me a lighthouse in NC. I wouldn't say it was smart of me to ride in the 8" shoulder to get there but I made it none the less. Pretty neat.
  2. 3 likes
    When I first read about the criticism of the i5 on/off switch, I was like "Ohhh, nooo, IPS, please don't change my beloved power button!" I just love that one swift motion to grab the i5 by the handle, put it to the ground and power it up in one go. Coming to think about it: the only reason, I don't experience your "unwanted turn-on's" (sorry, couldn't resist...), is my fairly unique way of using it. My i5 practically lives in the spare tire compartment with a solid lid protecting it from anything, that could push the power button. And of course I have to agree: A self-starting wheel when transported in a bag is a No-No! Somehow, that effect sounded familiar ... : So, on second thought: "IPS, please steal that idea" and give us a lockable power button! See, you don't even have to invent it. And if you're looking for a new challenge for those idling brain cells: how about a mechanism, that flips open the pedals with power on and closes them with power off ???
  3. 3 likes
    I've not ridden the ACM, so my comparison is somewhat second hand. But keeping that in mind these are my impressions based on commentaries and other peoples tests. The ACM is somewhat softer in its firmware modes. The GT16 in hard mode is VERY hard, and also it is pretty good at straightening up the pedals in turns and so on where many other EUCs suffer pedal dip. It almost feels like it is "catching you" when you for example go fast, then do a quick slow down for a sharp turn and then accelerate again, it feels very natural. The nominal power of the GT16 is very, very good, and the highest on the market, while some other wheels are rated for higher max power. I effect this means the wheel is very, very responsive to power input, which makes the hard mode actually work well. Nominal power is 2000W and max 3000W (the same as ACM for the max power) On a GT16 tilt-back is actually not something you want to turn off. It is pretty smooth and not a shock to experience, it just does its job. The pedals are higher on the GT16, meaning pedal scraping is not a thing. In contrast the centre of gravity is lower, which means you don't feel its weight in the same way going slow. When it comes to batteries and controller behaviour, the standard battery package is 858Wh, with a higher 1036Wh pack available. At 90kg of weight (the same as me) I wouldn't go more than 40 kph at 100% charge, slowing that down to about 35 kph at 80%, 30kph at 60% charge and 25 kph at 40%. This may sound like it's actually worse than the ACM, but 0% charge seem to be set at 3V per cell, which means you actually NEVER want to go below 20% unless it's an emergency. If you get down to 20% the wheel will beep at you if you try to push it even slightly, and recommended speed is <20 kph preferably even slower. As far as beeps go, you have three speed alarms that you can set yourself. I have set my lowest alarm to 36 kph, the middle to 38 kph and the last to 40 kph, and I've set speed tilt-back at 42 kph. This reflects my preferences, where I don't really want to go much faster than 35 kph, but often lose the sense of speed and need a reminder. Apart from the alarms you set yourself, you have power-percentage alarm (not sure if it's triggered at 70 or 80%), this alarm will trigger if you push to hard compared to what the batteries can still dish out, so it becomes easier to trigger the lower the charge you have left. If you persist in pushing it beyond the percentage alarm, you will get a tilt-back. How fast it is triggered depends on how far beyond the limit you've pushed, I've had it triggered within a second of the beeps when I almost overleaned, at another time it took a few seconds before I got a very smooth tilt-back, overriding my stupidity. You also get an alarm if you overcharge the batteries going down-hill. You HAVE to respect that alarm immediately, as in RIGHT NOW, or the next step is a face plant. So how does this reflect in real life? Example - A 10.5 km run yesterday: Over the run I went from 100% charge to about 75-77%. I had an average speed over the whole run of 27.6 kph and a top speed of 36.7 kph (all the numbers from wheellog). I have the 858Wh battery, which is about comparable to the ACM 820Wh equivalent. I had the first speed alarm trigger about ten-fifteen times, mostly on straights or when I pushed past bicyclists. The run started with a one kilometer stretch where there's a lot of roadwork going on, which means partly wonderful and partly lousy. I had one power alarm on this stretch, when I stopped at a red light in a strong upwards slope and leaned forward to start again. It was just a single beep as I started, where I hit close to 3000W for a spit second. No tilt back, since it was just a peak and nothing more. I guess I averaged just above 20 kph on this stretch. A few hundred meters later I went downhill and regained some power, but not that much as the stretch is short. I probably averaged rather low on this stretch too, since it's narrow and curvy. The next stretch of a couple of kilometers where really shitty, with intermittent washboard type damages to the asphalt. I had one speed alarm on a good straight, but the rest of the way I had to lower the speed a bit not to rattle my teeth too bad Then a looong four or five kilometer straight where I had the alarm trigger every other hundred meters, as I was going at around 35 kph the whole way. Zipped past a few bicyclists. This is the best stretch of them all, since it is a reasonably good surface and you can do some carving whenever you have a bit without bikes coming the other way. I could probably push the wheel to 40-42 kph on this stretch if I really wanted to - but not more than that as there are some cracks and pot-holes that you want to have some reserve power to clear. The last couple of kilometers are half uphill, the other half downhill, and I happily pushed to about 30 kph uphill without any warnings, and about as fast downhill and home. No beeps whatsoever. Getting off and checking my charge level and voltage, my LEDs said 80% (goes in 20% steps), but my voltage was down to 77,5 approximately which means around >75% when the rubber band effect settles. Apart from the alarm I set for myself, I had a single power beep and no other problems. The whole ride took about 22-23 minutes. For you experience, what would this mean? I'd say that if you went with the GT16, you should get the 1036Wh version. Not because the 858Wh version is bad in any way, but the extra ~180Wh gives you more headroom before you have to back off a bit. And it also gives you the comfort of not having to charge to 100% every time, you can stop charging at 90% and not have to worry about overcharge if you go downward for a bit just after starting off. Charging to 100% once a month to balance the cells is enough to keep them healthy. When it comes to the GT16 the "bigger" pack is actually exactly the same weight and dimensions, as the only difference is the capacity of each cell. Both have 80 cells in a 20s4p configuration. With the bigger pack, you can probably go for 20-25 km or so at speed before it starts complaining too much, and if you're willing to keep it down to <30 kph you can probably go at least this far or more. If you miss an even harder mode than ACM can provide, the "playing mode" in the GT16 will be right up your alley. As @Marty Backe said, the GT16 hardness is quite a lot harder than the GW modes. I personally always go with the hardest mode, even though it is a bit less relaxing, since it gives me an immediacy in response that feels safe and agile. I know I can go from accelerating to braking at the drop of a hat, a fact that have saved me from at least one crash. Any reasons not to go with the GT16? Well. If you live where it's wet, you may need to be a bit of a handyman to secure the GT16 from the damp. I've taken mine apart at least 10 times by now and have sprayed my board with conformal coating and put silicone wherever there seemed to be a weak point where damp could enter. It is NOT rated IP65 or any equivalent, so they do not guarantee it will keep water out. Also the shell is beautiful, but I suspect the ACM-sheel is quite a bit sturdier. You may get grinding sounds if you go on one foot, as the shell is a bit too flexible. You will have to check on the silicone dampers under the pedals from time to time, to make sure they stay glued in place. There is no real pedal retention system, which means you may have to add some weave tape between the pedal base and the shell to give some extra friction to keep them up - mileage may vary. The pedals could well be a bit larger. I have size 43EU, and have chosen shoes with a rather stiff sole to relieve the stress on the feet a bit. They're not super-small, but they could well be half an inch longer and half an inch wider without any negative consequences. I'd say they're a tad smaller than the pedals of the ACM. So in conclusion it is a beautiful wheel, but one that is a "best fit" for someone that have no fear of fiddling with it.
  4. 3 likes
    None of the Distributors were advised that this was going to get pushed through. Until the significant 'bugs' are worked out, it needs to be reverted back to the previous version.
  5. 3 likes
    The keys to how I got the hang of seated EUC riding was: keeping my heels up off the pedals so that my legs were free to counter-balance the weight of my upper body and.... learning to slide (on the seat surface) and move my upper body, instead of the tendency to try and sit in one place and position Initially, you want to drop straight down, heels automatically go up (tip-toeing on the pedals), into a seated position, instead of trying to do some kind of slow and awkward bend of your body. Doing so, the main weight manipulating the EUC transfers from your pedals (total body weight via your feet), to your EUC seat (upper torso weight via your bum). Once you get the hang of this, any turning is all about shifting your torso / sliding your bum across the seat, while your lower body, with toes against the pedals, counter-balance. Here's a vid that @Citi Wheel shot of me riding as described; hopefully it helps (though it's hard to see all this as my pants and Monster seat are the same black color): And like the video above, I do tend to manipulate my Monster, going from seated to standing and back, by stiff arming the front of my Monster seat. It also serves as an accelerator, and a good way to quickly throw your weight distribution back when standing up, for faster braking; overall a good transition pivot point.
  6. 2 likes
    Not sure if I am able to manage the pain or learned a new stance.. but it became more tolerable every day. I learned how to ride sitting down yesterday on the 18S so in time I probably learn how to give my knees some rest if needed.
  7. 2 likes
    Damnnn.. you are good. Good news... I clicked yesterday. I managed to ride sitting down ... How bout that. So it seems to me.. the trick is what you do with your calf to control a 16 inch wheel standing up is what you do to control the 18 inch wheel with your ass crack sitting down.. I still dont have as much control with the EUC as much as you seem to have however. I guess that will come with practice. And yes.. I did notice that I do control the speed by having to consciously tippy toe pressing on the pedals since when in sitting position, most of the weight is off your feet.. Thanks for the tip.
  8. 2 likes
    Yi Chen at Rockwheel Store used to have a kit for it. I can't find it now, but you can ask him if he'll get it again. That kit was a good solution in at least one respect, it had a controller that fed on the regular 84V battery power, meaning you didn't need any secondary batteries.
  9. 2 likes
  10. 2 likes
    The Monster definitely lends itself to riding primarily on the streets next to cars, not on the sidewalk next to pedestrians. I think more like a car when I'm riding my Monster (riding down the proper one way directions, etc), as opposed to my other, smaller wheels, because what's the point of having a sports car when you can't gun it because you're sitting in rush hour traffic (ie. sidewalks full of pedestrians)? Wouldn't say novelty; probably more niche than a next trend, ala the KS18 tall series for KingSong. Think it was @Jason McNeil (might be mistaken) saying that Monsters, probably due to the obvious high price point and size/weight prejudice, were moving relatively fewer units after the first wave of buyers purchased their wheels. My bet is that only Gotway keeps putting out 22" EUCs, just like they are the only ones releasing a 10" model. The market responds to sales numbers, like how Ninebot One 16" series sales pushed many EUC co's to adopt the 16" format, along with rotating pattern LED lights. Don't really see that trend happening here with the Monster. Does the Monster line really have to be a smash commercial success to the same degree as their other models though? When I heard the MSuperV3 control boards were basically the same boards used in the Monster, it seemed to me that maybe many of the Monster's components were streamlined to borrow from it's smaller brother, along with simplifying production logistics in other ways, like making 1 symmetrical shell designed to serve as both sides, etc. No complaints here, it's just all about technique and how willing you are to learn it. IMHO only when you learn to ride seated do you unlock the full potential of the Monster; otherwise, you're only using half the wheel I think. When I need to accelerate fast on the Monster, I'll always sit down, right on the front of the seat, and the Monster flies. If I need to decelerate / brake quickly on the Monster, I'll stiff arm the seat and stand up, leaning backwards and S-ing. Sometimes, if I'm decelerating from a lower cruising speed and need to stop quickly, I'll stiff arm the Monster seat and come off the wheel entirely, running beside the Monster to a dramatic and immediate slowdown. Employing such techniques as above, along with learning to offset the inertia while riding standing, I have absolutely zero issues with torque, anticipation, tight quarters, etc. I think you have to be willing to explore the new possibilities that the different 22" form factor presents, and not be married to riding in just one particular way because that's how you learned to ride on a smaller diameter wheel. This really depends on your height and arm reach. For me at 5'7", I can comfortably maneuver the seat-mounted Monster just fine without hunching over.
  11. 2 likes
    Here's an old video of a gentlemen who shows his technique of sitting. It starts at 1:50. Hopefully this helps.
  12. 2 likes
    Just installed logo-free pads on my KS16, looks much better Thanks @Jason McNeil for making these available.
  13. 2 likes
    Rockwheel GT16 just like a lonely excellent poet shine your eyes .
  14. 1 like
    The completely new version of the smartphone app is now available also for iOS. DO NOT UPDATE! Again a reason why auto update apps should never be enabled. This app is so full of issues I can't believe they put it out. A few of the worst: Registering is not possible with a Finnish phone number. Speed settings (amongst others) can't be accessed without registering and logging in. A tab bar blocks the lowest row of functional buttons. Some text, dialogue boxes and buttons are in Chinese only. Dear KingSong, come on! WTF?!
  15. 1 like
    Two of the most common KS dislikes is the deep power-on 'Hello King Song' baritone voice prompt, which has the unwanted side-effects of frightening small children & enraging dogs, & the logo of questionable artistic merit, prominently emblazoned on the side padding. The first of these has been corrected—or at least suppressible through the firmware—& finally we have plain padding available for the KS14D/KS14S/KS16/KS18 series. Going forward, most of our new KS Wheels will be sold without logos. eWheels Customers get free shipping on parts, including these pads. https://www.ewheels.com/shop/
  16. 1 like
    Nice review of a handheld gimbal. Interesting scenery. Thanks to @Simon Tay
  17. 1 like
    It’s the shoes. Your shoes. Every woman checks a man’s shoes first. We all know that. Impress a woman with your shoes. She likes it. Her followers like her then like you. Watch Kingsman movies. Further, a tailored suit (sans tie) and umbrella and an attitude that you know where you’re going fits for any riding occasion. Post pictures. ➰
  18. 1 like
    My problem too. I do have a set of new light strips from Jason but I have been procrastinating... Here is another one that appears just like mine:
  19. 1 like
    Thanks good to know, hehe yeah it was a mood thingy signing up, that is how I feel every autumn passing by into winter here in Sweden. I'll have a look to see if able to change it. Sorry Scatcat took down the text, feels like I "steal" so much place otherwise and especially when multi quoting and so what long answers but did read through it all twice and very grateful, appreciate this and very helpful indeed. Battery % alarm sounds like a very good solution to me so very interesting, also yes me too will respect the beeps understanding the outcome. Regarding water and IP classifications.. I used a very high end silicone just the other day at work to secure Paroc walls (sandwich elements) in industry environment so they can use very high pressures on the walls inside cleaning and that one may be way too pricey for me to get as a private person but will stand for any cold Sweden can offer and most def any heat she can produce and it will stick to basically any surface including slightly dirty ones and stay there unless I deliberately want it off in which case I have simple methods for that as well. A silicone is not necessarily the same as any other silicone, I understand that may sound like mumbo jumbo and that any couple of USD tube will work just as well and so thought I having worked with a whole range of them from very cheap in private to pretty pricey ones but amazed by the results I am seeing. Although do you mean the hub/wheel to or just body work for batteries/motherboard/open ends of cable shoes/connectors etc? Larger pedals would be great for me to, 45EU here and a bit of duck feet syndrome and very wide at the front so.. But again if any time over at work and spill material available maybe I can machine some new, rarely have any time over but just in case? Fiddling with a wheel I can do, I am not rich at all but it's just money in the end and I have no big responsibility in the form of own family I must put first of all so a bit of freedom after pay check I do have and living life is more important then worrying. God knows I have wasted lot $ through the years on crap and nothing important but as long a happy and pleased I'm all good, my grand mother told me as a young boy that live life son it is very short and yes I laughed that off cause 1, I was a child and therefor a lot to learn and my summer holidays there felt like an eternity, now having broken the 40 barrier I learn year by year how it actually do feels like time is speeding up and weeks just fly by so yeah.. I will heed my granny's advice and the GT16 v2 is one of the front contenders atm, will also have a look at the powerhouse Gotway's, Kingsong's etc considering what I felt so far and what you clearly stated about voltage dropping and power output I do want reserves for next wheel. Reserves in the form of power output and the more the better, having taken myself out of deep do do on a motorbike with lots of wobbly motorcycle at speed just by throttling alone I think power reserves can be a very good idea even if not even utilized very often at all if ever? But also battery reserves and I never expected to be in need of any 820Wh pack when I bought the ACM, a miss on my part I could have thought the extra step into the land of voltage and battery functionality but when you lay it out like that it is so simple, I am heavy and I like power the more cells backing that combo up the better for me.
  20. 1 like
    An unfortunate failure. I must say that it's rare that a control board will burn up under the circumstances that you describe. Any wheel that provides regenerative charging (I don't know of a wheel that doesn't) can have a problem overcharging. Gotway will beep at you if you got downhill on a fully charged wheel. 3 short beeps followed by a 2 second pause, and then repeat. I'm not aware that this can ultimately lead to a blown MOSFET. Electronics do fail sometimes. Although unusual, it does happen.
  21. 1 like
    Well, if you are one of those people that connect your phone to Your Mac to update, you can roll an app back using time machine. However, for those of us that do over the air updating, I think you are correct. I do not see any other way.
  22. 1 like
    That makes two of us: precisely the way I have it most of the time. Good idea and perhaps ideal with the razor lock. I was considering a simple modification in the form of a short piece of pipe with a flange that could be glued on, enclosing the button but still accessible with your thumb. This probably lends itself well to a 3D-printer so I plan to talk to my friend, the mechanical engineer.
  23. 1 like
    Hy Ilya, i tested 3.1 123 today...with my Ks18s!!! Finally: voltage and percentage are working and showing the correct values. Good Job! But: Please, please, make the percentage more agile/reactive, as i can not see/experience voltagedrop on heavy accelerations anymore. I guess most people like to see that, and not an -average calculated value! Then two more faults i found: Ampere and wattage does not show negative values when braking/recuperating. All my other apps cam do that... Then: Since this 123 version, if you close darkness app when its working fine......after open darkness again, it looks like this: The connect works...but no values are shown. Even if restart app ....it find wheel and connect s, but shows no values! Only Solution: connect to other app(ks for example) disconnet other app, then open darkness and THEN it works fine again... This was not on older version, this behaviour is new! Keep on the good work!! Best All Wheel app!
  24. 1 like
    Just spoke with @Yi Chen. He used to have a "pre-made" kit, where the user could do the installation, but where he had put it all together for easy assembly. He will look into his stuff and see if he has any stuff left to sell. The video @Barry Chen posted is actually @Yi Chen doing it... 陈俊毅 translates to Chen Yunyi. He is not satisfied with that video though, so he will try to make a new one.
  25. 1 like
    Sorry friends, I understand than you dont know russian, but I dont have time to translate it, so just watch foto =) Many foto of GotWay Tesla inside) https://ecodrift.ru/wiki-article/obzor-monokolesa-gotway-tesla-novinka-kotoraya-nichem-ne-vpechatlila/
  26. 1 like
    Here is an Update: I've had the wheel now for a few months. Form factor is Perfect. Power is good. Build is good. Pedals are solid. Only issue is the protruding power button. I have pressed it by mistake numerous times. This needs to be addressed. Hopefully, the new model will have a recessed power button. It Really is portable. Easy to carry. Because it is so slim. It is next to your body. But, it is a little heavy. With the thin handle, one cannot carry for more than 15min. before the weight begins to pull your fingers apart. I will definitely buy the newer model one year from now. Hopefully more speed, torque, & a little more range. We still wanna keep the weight low.
  27. 1 like
    Yeeks it looks like you popped a few 'FETs. Looks to be an older wheel with the old motor connectors too. How much do you weigh? Done much hill climbing on it? Maybe repeated stress from steep climbs eventually did the electronics in. Good thing it wasn't far from your car indeed. Did you check the rest of your cabling for melted wiring that may have softened over time and allowed an eventual short circuit resulting in the MOSFET explosion? I'd highly recommend to any other Msuper owners to review their wiring to try to get some distance away from one another as much as possible. Bundling hot wires together I think has an additive effect like placing three propane torches aiming at the same spot. Something's bound to melt and short circuit.
  28. 1 like
    I remember watching a documentary on the construction of the Palm islands and how they created land out there on the water. It was very interesting.
  29. 1 like
    Here is one of my 360fly video links....you'll see the pole (selfie stick): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpCd31YylyM
  30. 1 like
    I guess... if the pole is not within the blind spot that this camera apparently has.
  31. 1 like
    If I only had $1.6 to 24 million USD lying around... https://www.luxhabitat.ae/villas-for-sale/dubai/palm-jumeirah/?filters=location
  32. 1 like
  33. 1 like
    Your right, they are even named as palm trees. https://earth.google.com/web/@25.02807002,55.17338225,30.71529417a,57328.24709033d,35y,0h,0t,0r
  34. 1 like
    I only drive in a city setting (NYC), and the Monster is my daily driver, one of my EUC's that I will never sell until a v2 comes on the market. The main reasons (some you spoke of): the ability to sit (foot pain; seated riding lets you leverage more torque going uphill or at speed; overall fun of it) wide 2.75" tire to combat NYC pothole-d streets speed + size makes you feel the most comfortable riding amongst cars in stop-and-go city traffic (compared to smaller EUCs). I was actually going to buy an MSuperV3 until they announced the 22" Monster. And I would buy the Monster over the MSuperV3 (not knocking it; one of the best EUCs out IMO) every single time due to my personal reasons above. Regarding rolling the Monster powered on up stairs, the stairs need to be significantly lower in height than the wheel diameter of the Monster (say maybe 25% or lower of the 22'" diameter, so like ~6" or lower) And as for going low speed amongst pedestrians, I'm perfectly fine either a.) riding slowly standing up, manipulating more with heel-toe action on the pedals b.) riding slowly seated, stopping when the pedestrians are too slow by remaining seated and taking my feet of the pedals; or c.) stiff-arming my seat / dismounting, walking the Monster beside me, then re-mounting when traffic lets up.
  35. 1 like
    True. I use low height motorcycle boots for EUC riding. My walking shoes and even hiking boots are too soft at the sole, which makes my feet hurt.
  36. 1 like
    At about 17:40 you can see a shadow of the stick on the left side of the nose. In the Youtube comments someone said the passenger is holding it in his hands. At the very end when it lands, you can see a shadow on the runway of what looks like a long pole.
  37. 1 like
    I have had deliveries from fast 8-10 to slow 25 days... Depends a bit on luck, when the “sending distributor” at the end brings your wheel on the plane after he is having it in his warehouse. (this process can not be influenced by the seller) On defects , you normally negotiate that the seller will send you the correct spare parts. But i would say in general buying on aliexpress is only for people who know their wheels a bit...and are able to use a screwdriver to open it and are not afraid on the buying at all. its just nothing for someone who is used to exchange a product when it has some scratches, or after 10 days regrets his buy or trying to use a warranty till the last minute. i guess you all know what i mean :-)
  38. 1 like
    I'd guess we've all looked at video of Blue Angels (FA18 in really tight formations), Thunderbirds (F16's with weird speech audio commands), Canadian Forces Snowbirds (9 aircraft - I have a signed poster they sent from Moose Jaw, SK) https://imgoat.com/uploads/838023a778/50305.jpg or other National aerobatic flight groups. This 360 video of the 'Russian Knights' is interesting too.
  39. 1 like
    Took my 16S out strolling the neigborhood this morning with a cup of coffee in hand and no shoes.. I gotta love the looks on the passing cars + the neighbors' faces. LMAO
  40. 1 like
    I got a pair of thinner volleyball pads from Walmart and rode the wheel out to the local park yesterday.. Rode the hell out of it all over the park both on concrete bike path and on hilly grass area... And I have to tell you.. after about an hour of that.. I admit the discomfort was still there.. but less. You may be right.. Lets see what it'll be like after a month.. Yesterday was my first real ride on the 18S. Also.. I dont know if its my imagination or what.. but I think if I pressed my knees really hard against the pads... ie no wiggle room (absolutely controlling it instead of letting it sway side to side between my legs) the pain wasnt as bad.
  41. 1 like
    Change language instructions: https://www.facebook.com/groups/kingsong/permalink/1417641941645175/
  42. 1 like
    My guess is the pain will pass with practice. Your body has to get used to each new wheel. I hated the KS18S for the first week and came within a hair’s breadth of selling it. By the end of the first month, I was in love. I am so glad I didn’t sell it!
  43. 1 like
    Ride today afternoon... view from under a dark cloud towards the mountains in the distance. And my ACM's new accessory... to match the area I'm riding in here (example picture)... ...a working cowbell! Hoping it won't be too annoying
  44. 1 like
    Ride from last Sunday. Cold (5°C or so), cloudy with the occasional drizzle, only around 55km range (extrapolated) from my 1300Wh ACM where I'd usually get 60km (10°C) or even 75km (25°C, and slower riding). Cold temperatures (and 30 km/h) really ruin battery power! I started from home in the flat lands, and went South, following the Inn river into it's valley coming out of the Alps. Then back North to a friend's house. Route (50km). Starts on top, goes down, then up again for the most part of the route. Nice sand bank after 10 km or so. View is downriver (North). Panorama. It's just a neat spot. On the dam, there's the bike path. Path ahead. Mountains starting to get close. Mountains started on both sides. The left mountain in the distance is a good reference where the following photos were made. Valley coming down in the middle. A bit further. Panorama at one of the many boat ramps along the way. You can nicely see the valley's path in the center. Here I turned around. You can see that reference mountain on the left, to the North. "100 years toll house bridge Erl, 1895-1995". The other side is Austria, as the river is the border for a bit, that explains the former toll facilities. Looking North, on the way back, you can see the mountains ending and it getting flat again. Not many photos, but maybe some nice impressions Cold weather and rain, and riding is still fun!
  45. 1 like
    Just recorded some minutes ago -- the video shows the motor running using my lab power supply (that can handles max of 10A). Firmware was limiting the motor max current to be about 8A. Motor max speed is 45km/h when the wheel is on the air. This controller family supports from 0.25kW to max of 4.3KW (72V, 60A), which should be ok to implement vehicles like hoverboards up to motorcycles running at 100km/h!! Current motor interface implement the following methods, that can be used to control the motor and get his running speed value. This was tailored for EBike application but if anyone want to build a different thing like an EUC, we can help developing the firmware for that specific needs of the motor control. /***************************************************************************************/ // Motor interface void hall_sensor_init (void); // must be called before using the motor void motor_init (void); // must be called before using the motor void motor_set_mode_coast (void); // disable PWM output void motor_set_mode_run (void); // enable PWM output void motor_set_pwm_duty_cycle_target (uint8_t value); void motor_set_current_max (uint8_t value); // steps of 0.5A each step void motor_set_regen_current_max (uint8_t value); // steps of 0.5A each step void motor_set_pwm_duty_cycle_ramp_inverse_step (uint8_t value); // each step = 64us uint16_t motor_get_motor_speed_erps (void); /***************************************************************************************/ Another project developer implemented support the LCD and mobile app:
  46. 1 like
    What's news in beta 3.1-123: - Added support Xiaomi Mi Scooter - Added ReviewKit - Changed runtime format on Dashboard - KingSong, Gotway: Changed algorithm for voltage - Improved UI
  47. 1 like
    All new wheels require that your body condition itself to the design. Stick with it and it will probably pass. Until then pad where necessary to start with. Once you become more relaxed with the wheel you will probably be fine. Others with 18S have applied baby padding foam to the pads so you could do that and see how it goes.
  48. 1 like
    I have this one... Can't wait to ride around in with this on in my neighborhood on halloween. LMAO! Last year I was inflatable Godzilla on my Segway Minipro. Bunch of kids chasing me around!
  49. 1 like
    So long as weight and form factor are kept fairly close to the i5. For me, this machine is just as much about on-wheel as off-wheel handling. My biggest concern is the power button and its protrusion that, without modification, will easily turn on the wheel inside your bag!
  50. 1 like
    It will need a long time for the S5, we launched I5 just now, and S5 is still in the research and development now. But it will be different with I5, and based on I5. Thank you very much for your support our IPS.
×
×
  • Create New...