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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/15/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Well, I finally decided on what to buy ... and to my surprise, it wasn't a Kingsong 18. It's an MSuper 3 with the 1600 wh / 1500 w motor at 84.2 volts. The higher voltage was one of the key things that sold me. I sprang for the seat too, since frankly I think riding a EUC seated looks as awesome to me as some say it looks dorky to them, and because it should provide some relief for my back on longer rides. I'd be surprised if it really works for me since I'd have to squat really low, but there's only one way to find out ... I made a deposit with Jason and am going to put some more money on my card in the next day or two and finish up the process. Time to go buy some protective gear! Hopefully soon I will be sharing my enthusiasm more than my injury photos. Boy is this gonna freak out the dogs ...
  2. 5 points
    100 Km Gisors - Paris Porte Dorée (France). I tried to do the 100 Km without breaks or charge. Unfortunately only 90 Km (because of the wind) , I walked 10 Km (MS3+ 1600)
  3. 3 points
    The amount generated on my regular downhill can vary a lot... speed, temperature, weight carried and even wind resistance seem to be significant factors.
  4. 3 points
    It will be only a matter of time before this unicycle gets me laid as I am constantly stopped by young girls wanting to know what I am riding. So I cannot say the attention is all bad. Plus I'm good looking so they appreciate me grabbing them as they attempt to stay on the unicycle. I will say learning to ride a unicycle in the city is a great way to get over embarrassment. After falling off in the middle of an intersection for what must be the 15th time I can say I'm cool with public failure and humiliation.
  5. 2 points
    Just wanted to share another fast charging method I haven't seen posted. As I have multiple wheels (NB1 E+, KS-16S) as well as a ninebot mini-pro and an ebike. I was looking for a method that would work for all of them. Decided to purchase a Cycle Satiator (yes it's expensive but very versatile: http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html) and programed multiple fast 100% and 80% charge profiles it for each toy. Voltage is listed the original chargers for each and you just have to decide what amperage you want to charge it at. (up to 5A for the one I bought). I bought a packet of Anderson Connectors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P9CATU/ref=pe_861660_138883610_fxm_4_0_n_id) and inserted them on each of the original chargers as pictured below. That way the original charger still works and you don't have to find these odd connectors for each toy. Not trying to plug the Cycle Satiator just figured you all might find the setup useful as another option to consider. I've read up on fast charging, but some if it goes over my head pretty quick (and I still have a few questions) so if anyone sees any issues please let me know. Cheers, A
  6. 2 points
    Yeah, it's a bit weird that they use thicker gauge on the board when the motor wiring is much smaller. Let's hope they'll change it in the future, although with the Firewheel, that never caused any problems (then again, the motor is 550W nominal). The alcohol-trick is very useful, have to remember it next time I need to figure out which component is shorted on a larger board. The IPA (isopropanol / isopropyl alcohol) is available in different sized containers from electronics component distributors and from pharmacies, but at least here, the pharmacy-stuff costs something like 80€ per liter, whereas I got a liter container for something like 5.90€ from TME Unfortunately I haven't got any type of microscope, I just use a handheld small loop and the camera pictures. The microscope would of course help a lot when soldering very small components (like 0402's or 0201's), but so far I've managed without one (and I mostly work with larger SMDs, like 0805's and 1206's). The heat and airflow are adjustable in most models, so that shouldn't be a problem as long as you try it out first to find correct settings. Mostly I'm worried how fast they breakdown, and sometimes badly built cheapo-stations can be downright dangerous (fire / shock hazard). That sounds pretty good, although based on what I've read, the noname-stations can be a bit of a hit-or-miss (ie. even if you buy exactly the same stations, one unit might be just fine whereas other has all sorts of problems... poor quality control?). Earlier this evening, I corrected the picture of the power-stage in one of the above posts... I rushed the measuring and didn't take into account that the inductor L1 has very low resistance, so I made a mistake in how the inductor is placed in the circuit (it's of course in series with the load, not in parallel). Now I poked around the gate-driver, and managed to get the circuit down. It's pretty basic, almost straight from the datasheets, although I don't know the capacitor values: Example circuit from datasheets: Circuit from the board: Forgot C17 and C20 (bypasses for the VDD-input) from the schematic... Each of the gate drive outputs have similar circuit, made from (probably) a ferrite bead, and a 75ohm resistor in parallel with (reversed, cathode pointing to the gate-driver chip) schottky-diode. The pins marked "STM32" go to the CPU, the actual legs are above C48 (if you look at the earlier pictures), but I didn't try to pinpoint exactly which input goes to which pin there. Notice that R10, R8, D8 and L8 are missing from the board. I desoldered them to make some measurements. R10 was removed so I can measure which way around the diode in parallel is (or if it's a TVS or something). It seems to be a schottky diode, with the cathode pointing towards the driver-chip pin, presumable to speed up the turn off of the mosfet by bypassing the 75ohm resistor. I also took off all the components on the R8/D8/L8 -set. I soldered the L8 to an DIP/SOP/TSSOP -adapter board, between two legs so I can place it on a breadboard. There's also the R8/R10 resistors and the diode there, but I was mostly interested in the inductor L8. I first tried to measure the inductance with my cheapo LC-meter, but it was so low that it couldn't read much anything. The lowest setting is 2µH, but it probably used fairly low frequency (never measured the output), and the reactance of the (presumable) ferrite bead is probably very, very low at those frequencies. Instead I then placed the L8 in series with 47 ohm resistor (the through hole on the board), and fed different frequencies of sine-waves from my DIY-signal generator. Didn't get that much out of it, except, yes, clearly it is an inductor, probably a ferrite bead The voltage-divider drops more voltage over the inductor with high frequencies, and less at low frequencies. Here's one of the scope screenshots 20MHz signal is fed through the inductor and the 47-ohm resistor. The yellow (channel 1) signal is the input from the generator (very messy, I had it hooked up with jumper wires and it picks up a lot of noise, some of it probably originating from the generator itself), the greenish/bluish signal is the voltage over the resistor. The "MATH"-signal is the difference between the signals. Anyway, with the input VPP average around 404mV, and the drop over the resistor at 115mV (average), it would seem that at this frequency the reactance of the inductor is about 115mV = 404mV * (47ohm / (47ohm + XL)) <=> XL = (404mV/115mV - 1) * 47ohm => XL = around 118.113ohm Knowing the reactance and the frequency, inductance should be around XL = 2 * pi * F * L <=> L = XL / (2*pi*F) For 20MHz, that should be about L = 118.113ohm / (2*pi*20*106 Hz) = 9.3991... * 10-7 henrys, or about 940 nanohenrys. (Assuming I got my math right and didn't make any "off-by-decade"-errors or such ) Not that the actual inductance even really matters... from what I've read, ferrite beads have (relatively) low inductances and tend to have more meaningful reactances in much higher frequencies (datasheets could give the reactance at 100MHz frequency, for example). With a sweeping signal generator (and one that doesn't add that much noise at high frequencies ), more accurate values could maybe be obtained, but I don't have such a signal source, and like said, probably it won't matter that much. EDIT: And reading further on the subject, you can't even calculate the inductance at higher frequencies like this: Could I technically calculate the inductance knowing that the impedance of the inductor is (ZL = j*2*pi*freq*L)? Yes, but only as a low frequency estimation. At high frequency, the ferrite works as a lossy inductor which can't be represented by a series resistor. This is the application note on ferrite beads and gate ringing I read before: https://www.microsemi.com/document-portal/doc_download/14693-eliminating-parasitic-oscillation-between-parallel-mosfets Although it mostly speaks of paralleling mosfet gates and preventing ringing with ferrite beads, it also mentions they work with single mosfets too: "A ferrite bead can also be used with a single MOSFET that is not connected in parallel with any other MOSFETs. The effect is the same; high frequency noise on the gate is blocked, eliminating any tendency for oscillations."
  7. 2 points
    My new motor finally arrives on Tuesday thanks to @Jason McNeil! Interestingly they describe the motor as a controller weighing in at a hefty 11 lbs with no battery.
  8. 2 points
    My trouble is that the only way I seem to be able to get below 95Kg is to strip naked. I'm sure that would be too much of a shock for most people!
  9. 2 points
    I was riding around in a parking garage in a hotel last night and notice this sketchy hillbilly chasing me. I was freaked out. Turns out he was filming me because the euc was blowing his mind. We ended up having a beer by the pool. Nice guy
  10. 2 points
    I had a funny situation while riding this week I was going downhill narrow street and there was a guy going uphill in his car. When he noticed me, he smiled, put his arm out of the window and we 'casually' high-fived Totally made my day
  11. 1 point
    I think the ultimate logo I've seen is the evolution of ape / fish to upright then to the wheel. Wheels really do look futuristic in a way Segways and hoverboards never have, and I think it's because it looks ludicrous, impossible, and graceful. In other words, magical.
  12. 1 point
    Hello folks, So about two days ago I road my unicycle from my parent's house to my apartment (which is 3 miles away) from a 100% battery. When I got home,the battery was at 97%. I pursue to connect it to the charger and notice the the charger light doesn't turn red.. this was weird because the charger would charge the bot even if I turn it on and ride it for one minute. I thought maybe there is some weird exception going on and due to the colder weather (50F/10C - which I've ridden in before and never had this problem) here in NY, or maybe because I just wrote it 3 miles and it's still at a really high percent, that that was the reason it wouldn't charge. So today I took it to work and road it around later in the evening so that I could lower the battery and try again. I got back home and the battery was at 50%. I connect it to the charger again, and nothing. Still doesn't charge. At this point I knew something was definitely wrong, however, I didn't know if it was the Ninebot One E+ connector itself, or if it was the charger connector that was the issue. I went ahead and started to take pictures of the bot and the bot's firmware on my phone and then went ahead and opened the battery compartment and mobo compartment to see if I can see any signs that would let me know why this is happening. So this is what I found.. The following picture is actually a cable that isn't damaged but the cover is tearing apart. The cable is not on the battery side, but rather on the Ninebot side. Video below: https://vid.me/Z1K8 I'm not sure how this cable was cut like that since it was always protected inside of the case. However, when I did open the ninebot today, I noticed that the battery wasn't "glued" to the wall of the bot. So what I'm thinking that happened is that since it wasn't glued/secure/or the glue worse off since there is no stickiness anywhere on the battery, normal usage of the ninebot going through roads, bumps, etc would mean that the battery is jumping around the case unsecure, and that means that gravity would continuously stretch the cable until it snapped. Good thing that it wasn't the cables that actually powered the bot during operation that broke.. that would have been really bad if I was in the middle of the street and the main power cable to the battery snapped off. So for Ninebot users out there, I would encourage you to check your battery compartment and make sure your ninebot battery is fully secured. If anything, I would suggest adding some extra padding to the bottom, sides, and top and the left face the leans the battery's side with the side calf padding so that you can minimize or eliminate the movement of the battery during operation and avoid this issue.
  13. 1 point
    Yesterday was the first really warm summerday in Styria, and it was so much fun being out with the KS16, that I confess I was just "speeding" around, sometimes straight, sometimes slalom, but always with the wind around my ears with an average near maxspeed, and therefore ... ... I can only show fotos taken while riding on the wheel. Near Bruck on the "Murradweg" near Murchannel: A short offroad path at the "Murinsel" (Mur island) in Bruck: Crossing a bike training park where children learn to ride a bicycle and watch traffic signs (I'm sometimes here to teach other interested parties): Now, at the end between Bruck and Pernegg again on the biketrail over the floodplain forests near the Mur shores (one foto with my KS16 posing needs to be included ) :
  14. 1 point
    I just bought a cheap chinese one off ebay, lasted 12+ months so far.
  15. 1 point
    It has REALLY big Mosfets on it. But, that's great news! Finally be able to put it back together. Then, just ride past your wife as if nothing has happened...
  16. 1 point
    I just want to calculate that mass *gravity *height Suppose you carry 30kg down 100m hill 30 kg * 9.8 m/s^2 * 100 m = 29400 joules = 8.17 WH It is proportional to weight and hill height. 1kg per 1m hill is 0.00272222 WH (or WH/(m*kg)), you can multiply that by weight and height. This is absolute theoretical limit. Generators are actually quite good in mechanical energy conversion efficiency (up to 98%). So are the lithium-ion accumulators. So I think you can take 50% as pessimistic coefficient, 70% as some average and 90% as optimistic coefficient. But even optimistically with 30kg big weight and 100 m big hill and 80% of rather small 240 WH accumulator the help is like 4% of capacity. elevationmap.net might provide you your hills height if you want to play with that.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks, I really like the monster just so freaking comfortable at slow and fast speeds and I really like the new side pads, honestly I prefer the acm footplates hopefully they don't break on me but I don't do much jumping off curbs. I like everything about the monster, am pretty sure my msuper 820 and 1600 are getting jealous cuz am not paying them no attention lol.
  18. 1 point
    No need to beat around the bush, @Slaughthammer, why not tell us what you really think!?!?
  19. 1 point
    I had my first real fall around 800 miles. Overpowered a Ninebot E going up a hill and slid UP the hill. Sliding on concrete around 12 mph is not fun. I still have some scars on one elbow, and it took a few weeks for all the skin to heal. I have ridden about 1500 more miles since them. I am probably due. I just got an Inmotion V8 that goes faster, but I am NOt pushing it, instead preferring to keep it below 15 and let the more powerful motor protect me. I have not gotten the 'slow down' alarm once, not felt the tilt back. Everytime I go riding, there are times where I am thinking "if this thing cut-out, I am screwed'
  20. 1 point
    My tile is attached as well. I also purchased another similar version called the TrackR for the P4. I have not had a chance to compare the two yet but they should provide some piece of mind while flying
  21. 1 point
    So after riding 23km on road/off-road also in the woods (i shocked a few walkers/runners ) I can give a short conclusion: Man, is this thing fast and agile! The "Raptor" (or one of the raptors) of EUC's I am pretty amazed. 38km/h max Speed (I set it in the app) is for me fast enough. Faster would be surely possible but I don't want to try that out.
  22. 1 point
    To be more specific, a "good" crimp done with proper tools is more often called "cold soldered" or "cold weld" (don't know if that's the correct term in English, but that's what it's called in Finnish). Here's one picture that Google image search for that brings up: Unlike "cold [solder] joint", a "cold weld" is a good thing. Look at the last picture in the image above; in "cold weld", the conductors within the wire have become pretty much solid mass pressed against the connector (inner) surface: that's more or less a "perfect joint". But, this kind of joints are mostly possible only with the proper tools, and as I stated above, the tools can be connector-specific and fairly costly (but not always), so getting such for a few connectors may not be (financially) worth it (ie. how much sense it makes to buy a, say, $500 tool + connectors to make a three connectors for motor phases for your own personal use? ). Of course, I'd prefer that the manufacturers use such tools and connectors in the first place, for mass production it should not be that big of an investment to get a bunch of tools and good connectors for each wheel for the production line to make sure the connections are good... The pneumatic hammer seen in some Gotway video (or was it Kingsong? Anyway, about their new connector procedure...) probably does the job, ie. compress the single conductors in the wire into a (more or less) solid mass? Basically, in this context, a "cold weld" seems to mean that the conductors "weld" together without actual welding (heating). For a proper "cold weld", soldering (or trying to, heating that lump of metal may not be easy ) it afterwards won't probably do much (ie. neither make it better or worse), the connection's pretty much solid all the way already
  23. 1 point
    Enjoyable ride - hey, did I hear someone mention my name As summer approaches for the Phoenix area I bet you need to plan these rides for early morning or late afternoon. How much charging can you really get done during a 'recharge break'? My wheels take from 8 to 20 hours to recharge so I figure it wouldn't be worthwhile to carry a charger around with me. On the other hand it's nice that there are outlets that you can freely plug into.
  24. 1 point
    I actually try to avoid people. Some are cool and give you the thumbs up or say something positive. But so many people annoy me with the things they say. Rudely telling you to come here. Or demanding that you stop so that they can look at it. Its the tone more than anything. Its honestly kind of dangerous where I live so I just keep flying by. Imma get a shirt made made saying" I stop for Hot Chicks Only!!!" I live in America. These are probably the people voting for Trump. LOL
  25. 1 point
    I already found one incomplete attempted clone.
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