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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/28/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 4 points
    If you want to learn riding backwards without practicing, here is how I did it: each time when I had to brake to a full stop, I tried to go an inch or two backwards before to step down, increasing the distance after a while when more and more confident... I believe it took about a month or so to get to a confident yard or two with no sweat involved.
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    I like the idea of "riding impossibly slowly" - my aim! Thanks for the tips.
  5. 2 points
    Where the rubber meets the road, it seems, doesn't get enough love here. So I thought I'd start a thread to share opinions about tire pressure, maintenance, etc. (starting with some of my opinions). I find tire pressure to be one of the most important components of handling and ride, and I'm a bit obsessive about it on my EUC's (probably carrying over from motorcycles and bikes). There are three things that make tire pressure a challenge with EUC's: EUC's only have one tire, low pressure has a direct impact on ride, and tire failures are unforgiving EUC's have unique bent valve stems that make it hard to find inner-tubes, and a pain to fill (you just don't want to do it) EUC tire pressure is a bother to check compared to any other vehicle, because the valve stems are hidden in the EUC cavity, and difficult to attach to a pump ... and there are probably other things. The net result is that you want to maintain the tire, fill to pressure and forget it. To that end, I've Slimed (https://www.amazon.com/Slime-10056-Tube-Sealant-oz/dp/B003V9XYNW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487706156&sr=8-2&keywords=slime+bicycle) both my V8 and Zero. I used about 1/3rd of the bottle on each one. There is no effect whatsoever on the feel of the wheel, and I think it provides a certain security. In Chicago, I can take my bike into any number of convenient shops to buy and install a new inner-tube; but the same shops would just draw a blank with an EUC, and the inner-tubes are hard to find. Best to maintain what you have. I like to keep my tire pressure up at 3 bar (~44 psi). The sidewalls of my V8 and Zero tires both recommend 40-65psi pressure, and the V8 comes from the factory at 2.8 bar (~40psi). So for me 3 bar seems the right pressure, and both wheels feel good at that pressure. It's a real bother to fit a pressure gauge on the valve stem because they are bent against the wheel. I almost never get a seal on my gauge without several tries. So instead, I pumped the wheels up with my Lezyne pump (https://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Steel-Floor-Drive-Black/dp/B005UND3CY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487706504&sr=8-3&keywords=lezyne+pump) -- I recommend Lesyzne as the absolute best bike pump on the market -- and then put a Gozens 44psi cap (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRIKIY0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on the wheel. That way, I can easily check the pressure at the start of each ride. You do need to buy the Gozens at a particular pressure (BTW, they have bluetooth systems, which I think are a bit of overkill) but you get 4 of the basic caps for $9, so NBD.
  6. 2 points
    This is an experiment. Lately I've been recording my rides with a Garmin 60CS. If you have Google Earth installed you can view my recent 43 mile ride around some local Los Angeles rivers and paths. I want to accumulate a large collection of EUC friendly routes to ride Southern California. As people enter the sport in my local area I can point them to a collection of rides to try for themselves. If you have Google Earth installed you should be able to download the file, launch it, and Google Earth will take care of the rest. 20170225 - ACM ride on Coyote Creek and San Gabriel Rivers.kmz
  7. 2 points
    https://www.amazon.com/Slime-10004-Tube-Sealant-oz/dp/B000ENSRS0 https://www.amazon.com/Slime-10011-Tubeless-Tire-Sealant/dp/B000C11PYW
  8. 2 points
    Not to my knowledge.I've been using it for years in my unicycles,motorcycles and vehicles with both tubes and tubeless tires and it works great.Slime is to pneumatic tires what a rubber is to sex."A little extra protection" when used preventatively.It can also permanently seal a lot of punctures like it did on my ACM when I was riding it without protection.Plus if your Catholic,the church as no quarrels with it!
  9. 2 points
    Me too. and then riding backwards. I can ride almost impossibly slowly, not quite there yet.
  10. 2 points
    Headlight Mount for GotWay Msuper18 V3 - Preview pics of work in progress: Dear @danw872 is presently torturing his 3D printer with this thing. If it turns out ok, I will publish it soon.
  11. 2 points
    Preferring to be on the safe side, I still would consider 45º angle to the earth gravitation as being a little too close to what is reachable by a non-extreme rider under non-extreme circumstances.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    a bit of encouragement to those who like freestyle - something that seemed to be totally out of reach not long ago - eventually becomes a reality, provided that some efforts are applied
  14. 1 point
    As a Star Wars movie machinery in today's reality For fast driving, I like sitting in this wheel ! Then he seems very stable . I did not great here though wery fast because I've already felt the functioning of the speed limiter ! To limiters fast accelerating throws a very very strongly back !!! It may even throw you away ! I am, however,very very pleased with this wheel ! Here a small video : https://youtu.be/cqPki7qFuLk
  15. 1 point
    Ride responsibly and Wear suitable protective gear! = Safe Speed = 70kg rider >40% charge. Heavier rider or lower battery? Ride slower! 21 km/h - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 21 km/h - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 22 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 23 km/h - Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) 25 km/h - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 28 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS16B (680/840Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway ACM (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 35 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh) 35 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) 45 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) = Real Range = 20-25 km/h urban commuting, 70kg rider, not aggressive riding, not offroad, above 15°C ambient temperature, not hilly, not windy, new good condition batteries (5km rounded). 20 km - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 20 km - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 20 km - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 20 km - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 20 km - Inmotion V5F (320Wh) 25 km - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V5F+ (480Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 40 km - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS16B (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway ACM (680Wh) 40 km - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (680Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16B (840Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 50 km - Gotway ACM (820Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 50 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (820Wh) 55 km - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 80 km - Gotway ACM (1300Wh) 80 km - Gotway Msuper v3s (1300Wh) 100 km - Gotway ACM (1600Wh) 100 km - Gotway Msuper v3s+ (1600Wh) 105 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W, KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) 150 km - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) * Real Range calculation: Capacity Wh / 16 = km Inmotion V8 example: 480Wh / 16 = 30km * Peak power calculation: Fully charged, new good condition batteries (100W rounded). battery pack voltage (serial) * number of packs (parallell) * nominal discharge rate * 95% switching efficiency Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) example: 84V * 4packs * 10A * 0.95 = 3192W The standard battery cells used in EUCs have 10 Ampere nominal discharge rate. Dynanometer tests have shown the batteries have not delivered any more in practice so 10A was used for all calculations. 15-cell pack = 63V * 10A = 630W 16-cell pack = 67.2V * 10A = 672W 20-cell pack = 84V * 10A = 840W 95% efficiency (5% waste heat) * Safe Speed calculation: Ninebot One S2 (310Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Ninebot One E+ (320Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Gotway MCM4 (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14C (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14D (420Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 141 Zero (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) : 550W nominal, 1600W peak √ 550W = 23 km/h 23 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1323W OK. Inmotion V8 (480Wh): 800W nominal, 1600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 25 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1563W OK. Gotway MCM4 (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS14C (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16B (840Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16S (820Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway ACM (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh): 2000W nominal, 2600W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh): 1200W nominal, 5100W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh): 2000W nominal, 3200W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Monster (2400Wh): 1600W nominal, 8000W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh): 2000W nominal, 5100W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W OK.
  16. 1 point
    yes, three or four rounds, each independently knotted, just in case no, but that sounds feasible as well I didn't know that one
  17. 1 point
    In the video you can see that my EUC can run almost horizontally.
  18. 1 point
    That would of course help a lot Could be. But to me it poses a problem. It tilts so much that my shoe touches ground in sharp turns. I also think it tilts mostly when turning to the right. I have however not tested that too much. As you say: it only happens at slow speeds for me to.
  19. 1 point
    UPDATE: After speaking with Tina(a KS representative) she told me to kindly speak with Carey (engineer at KS) since I spoke mandarin we had no language barriers. All comments were thoroughly explained to Carey and he tentatively listened and responded. 1. Speed should not be reduced We can increase the speed to not allow any speed drops after 50% for KS16-a/b/c Available in the next firmware update v1.25 to be made AVAILABLE TODAY (Feb 27, 2017) HOWEVER it is not possible for any other KS-14 and KS18 wheels due to the safety factor. Carey went on to explain how the wheel would not withstand aggressive accelerations if the speed limit drops. 2. Customizations on Alarms Carey understood and will try to implement these. However Alarms 1 and 2 can be turned off when set to 0 3. Light setting should save The light setting can not save due to the way the motherboard on the wheels are engineered. However it is possible for the newer KS wheels (KS16s). For existing KS16 wheels you may turn on the bluetooth and if the lights are on quickly push the bluetooth button (whilst its on) for around 1 second to turn off the lights. 4. Lights locked in place/ not alternating Carey said this is doable and will be put out soon. 5. Wheel does not "spin out" when lifted off the ground Not possible due to the engineering of the trolley handle. Because there is no sensor for the handle the wheel can not come to a stop when lifted off the ground. 6. More customizations on pedal tilt Was considered 7. Bluetooth Password Understood by Carey 8. Rename KS device name Understood by Carey 9. Headlights Brighter lights are available on the newer KS wheels More Flashing options for existing wheels will be considered 10. Firmware updates consume more power Carey said that this is definitely not true. It may appear as such on Wheellog because the wheel has faster acceleration due to the new V1.23 update.
  20. 1 point
    I got my VF5+ from ewheels yesterday, and was pretty confident I'd be able to hop and go. Instead, this seems impossibly, incredibly difficult. You don't realize just how difficult it is until you're standing next to it. It is, improbably, just a wheel with pedals, the ultimate simplistic form of a vehicle, yet it cannot work with a very sophisticated set of sensors and computers working for you. I'm in awe of this wheel and the technology. Apparently the only way I know of dismounting the vehicle is running off it (all learning on grass). Hopefully that habit can be broken. I don't know if unicycles can become mainstream. Not one person in my office wants to have a go on it. Their reaction is more akin to incredulous horror. After about twenty minutes of practice, I got out my dress boots; the extra heel height and the rigid ankle high leather allows me to place the weight more on the toes while keeping the entire lower leg locked. Also the heavy leather protects my ankles from the pedals during falls. The boots helped a lot--just like shifting into a higher gear. It's remarkable how the human mind works; something so difficult becomes, after a while, not so bad as the human mind adjusts.
  21. 1 point
    @Mrd777 Sooo....., I'm not completely sure I'm qualified to answer the question I think you are asking. What I think you're asking: Which one do you like more, the 2017 1200W KS-18B or the 1500W MSuperV3S+? (i.e. the latest models out, both I have never owned) It seems important to distinguish, as: for Gotway: the 67.2V operational MSuperV3's (personally never rode) do not exactly drive like the 84V operational MSuperV3S+'s (personally test rode) and for KingSong: the 800W KS-18A (personally own) does not apparently drive like the newer 1200W KS-18B (personally never rode) I can speak on the 800W KS-18A mkII, as I own this wheel and have ridden extensively. I can speak on the 1600W Monster, as I own this wheel and have (now) ridden extensively (don't think you were considering this model). And I can speak on the 1500W MSuper3S+ from a few hours, test-ride experience perspective only (not enough IMHO to intimately and definitively speak on the idiosyncrasies of an EUC). * And also, the Monster rides different enough from the MSuper3S+ that you cannot infer the same ride even within the same GotWay family line (main difference, besides the implications of size/weight: Monster pedal response / resistance is significantly harder than the MSuper3S+ pedal response / resistance >> both wheels set to the hardest Sports mode) As I have no direct owning experience of either current models, ..... Some observations partly based on this forum / partly based on my experience of previous generation (800W KS-18A) and sister models (Monster/MsuperV3S+): Pedal Response / Hardness: As @KingSong69 has continually stated on these forums, the newer 1200W KS-18B carries a harder pedal response / hardness / resistance than the previous 800W KS-18A (which was not the softest out there to begin with). The MSuperV3S+ in Sports mode, on the other hand, is basically the softest pedals I have ever ridden on an EUC bar none (and I've ridden every brand). Pedal hardness to begin with is a matter of personal preference, but if you are looking for the same brick hard response as your new V5F+, the KS-18B will be much closer than the MSuperV3S+ Not sure what you mean by "agile acceleration", so let me break things down in comparison to what you know in the V5F+, as I own and intimately know that wheel as well: V5F+: I would classify the V5 as most like "agile acceleration", as acceleration on this wheel is a consistent combination of torque-y-ness and ease across all its speeds, both accelerating from rest, and accelerating across the whole range of it's speed. MSuper3S+: Acceleration here for the most part stays true to the Gotway signature acceleration: very floaty and effortless, very little resistance feeding back on your pedals while summoning a tremendous amount of power. The only caveat here is acceleration from rest or accelerating uphill. If you don't know any better, you might be hesitant to lean harder in these situations (which was me previously) due to overlean cutouts, which most other EUCs would be subject to. However, the 84V Gotways (ACM 1300WH, MSuperV3S+ & Monster) I believe have better safeguarding / tuning as a result of the higher operational current (my theory), where you can lean extra harder than the average EUC and summon a tremendous amount of power for these situations. I would define these accelerations more as "power accelerations" than "agile accelerations". (based on my Monster experience and corroboration with a fellow NYC MSuper3S+ owner) KS-18B: I can't speak directly on KS-18B acceleration here, but, FWIW, a.) my 800W KS-18A acceleration is no slouch (falling somewhere in the middle of the V5F+ and MSuperV3S+ in terms of torque and ease), and b.) the newer 1200W KS-18B is supposed to offer more torque. Speed: MSuper3S+ reported safe max speed: 45km/h || KS-18B max speed: 40km/h ...... it is what it is. And now, some annoyances to consider: Quality Control: There are already 3 concrete reports of MSuperV3/V3S+ gyro wires disconnecting due to bad solder jobs. This alone would give me pause in purchasing an MSuperV3S+ (to be fair, most owners have not experienced.... yet), and these stories are always in the back of my head while cruising on my Monster (I've already committed to monthly Control Board checks myself). KingSong, on the other hand, while having had their own share of QC issues, have never had QC issues of the disturbing kind like the aforementioned Gotway MSuperV3/V3S+ gyro-soldering issue. Cripple mode: Both enter crippled, reduced speed mode way too early IMO, considering both battery packs are 1+kWh, but the current KingSong crippling is way way too early at sub-50% threshold (Gotway is sub-20%). Not a dealbreaker for me personally as I usually don't ride far below 50% on any wheel if I can help it, but annoying nonetheless. Beeps: Not mentioned much, but I find the lack of user-settable speed alarms on the Gotways annoying, unlike my KS-18. I personally don't like to ride with the phone apps, so like to custom set the speed alarms on my KingSong more as a speed indicator rather than a warning. (I believe Gotway is 2nd alarm = 34km/h or off, 3rd alarm = 80% power, no off). Also, of note, while both companies offer tiltback, I am too scared to set on my Monster (currently off) due to reported cutouts from 62.7V operational MSuperV3 riders setting their tiltbacks too high (30+km/h). And, on the KingSong side, while tiltback works great, I would love the ability to turn it off, as too much tiltback occurrence seems to throw off calibration faster. Unfortunately, no one on these forums, including me, AFAIK, has extensive owning experience with both the KS-18B AND MSuperV3S+, only one or the other. Also, because of it's form factor, I personally don't really regard the KS-18 series (taller, rectangular) as a direct comparison to the MSuperV3 series (circular). The MSuperV3 handling compares better with other, circular EUCs, like the majority of 16" EUCs out (Ninebot One, InMotion V8, etc), while riding the KS-18 series, when you really put the time in, handles and turns differently. If it were me, I would wait both to see if there are more MSuperV3S+ incidents, and what the specs turn out to be for the rumored due-out-this-year 2 new KingSong 18" models: KS-18B mk3(?) revision and the new form factor (rumored to be shorter) KS-18 (I myself am waiting, hoping KingSong makes the move to 84V operational as Gotway has). I don't think you can really go wrong with either wheel, but I also don't think these wheels are the straightforward, head-to-head comparison you are assuming here; really depends on your priorities, preference. Personally, I will stick to my current 22" Monster, and possibly upgrading (spec dependent) to the next KS-18. Sorry for the long drawn-out non-answer~ Also, if you're on FB, DM me your user name if you wanna be added to the NYC EUC group chat there; a lot of useful knowledge shared by local riders, as well as the occasional group ride.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    I also made styles suitable for parking support and now for King Song KS 18a my extras complete and assembled : https://goo.gl/photos/twv5juFbYyG1R9ow7
  24. 1 point
    I don't get it why some people try to outlaw all currently available EUCs, including all their natural future technological development and improvements. I don't see so much wrong with any and all of the EUCs that we can buy now. Of course, all EUCs can and should be improved and regulated (say a speed limit and a deceleration requirement), but I would rather prefer to see evolution than revolution. I have the vague suspicion that someone not yet in the market tries to overtake, monopolize and profit big time (as the thread title suggests). I am all for measuring and certifying reliability, however dictating the technology how to achieve it (redundancy) seems to be the wrong approach. And that losing the bell means to push or carry the EUC home isn't in my list of (even remotely) relevant safety priorities either. On the positive side, I have doubts that a legislation outlawing all currently operated and available EUCs is likely to succeed in those European countries where EUCs are currently regarded/treated as legal anyway.
  25. 1 point
    Minimum order 10 pcs, they also have a 16" listed, which is not available either right now, so only 14" currently available. I would have preferred a 16" myself as well.