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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/29/2016 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    At least last year, MJ1's were pretty much the "top-of-the-line" high capacity cells one could get. 1RadWerkstatt uses them for their largest packs & Jason uses them for the 840Wh KS16 packs. The cells have 3500mAh capacity, and the manufacturer states the "safe operating limits" as continuous max discharge of 10A and "pulse"/short-term burst max current of 20A, don't know how long the burst is meant to last though. Although, if you look around you'll see cells from less known manufacturers like Ultrafire, GTL, Focuspower. TrustFire etc. that claim even higher capacities (even 10000mAh ), but in reality, cannot store anywhere near the claimed capacities and/or produce the promised currents, and are usually fakes (they might be something like used, rewrapped laptop cells or such). For four 210Wh packs of LG MJ1's in parallel, that means 40A continuous or 80A pulse current. If the voltage would be 60V for example, that would translate to 2400W continuous or 4800W pulse power. The cells can actually go above that, but it's not considered safe (ie. the cells can damage or overheat, or whatever). Shorting a cell could probably lead to much higher currents (at least for a while, until it either vents, catches fire or explodes ). With the KS16 overheating problems, likely the mainboard will overheat way before the batteries, if used at the maximum powers. There are some 18650-cells that can produce 15/30A continuous/burst currents, or maybe even more, but that comes at the expense of the total capacity, the high discharge cells typically have a capacity of 1500-2800mAh or so, inching towards the lower end the higher the max current is. If using a lower number of packs, it could be useful, but as the motors and mainboards probably can't handle the very high wattages such cells could produce, I don't see much point of using the higher-discharge cells with 4 or more packs. They probably can't pull as much current as even the MJ1's could give (with 4 pack configuration). To produce that rated 800W of KS16 motor at 60V voltage, 4 packs need to discharge 13.333...A in total (and that's "split" among the packs, so 13.333A / 4 = 3.333... A per pack). That's about 1/3rd of the continuous power the cells are supposed to be able to withstand. If the maximum short burst for the motor is rated around 3000W, that's still only slightly above what the 4 packs should be able to deliver continuously (ie. without any time limit), and the motor / mainboard are probably the limiting components there. If the packs can dish out higher voltage, you need less current, for lower voltages, more current (for the same powers, P = UI meaning power equals voltage times current). But, Li-ion battery technology gets gradually (albeit slowly) better all the time, with the max capacities growing something like 5-10% yearly, so there could already be something slightly "better" than MJ1's available by now (or if not, probably soon anyway ).
  2. 3 points
    Any kind of exercise is likely to improve your general skills. I would recommend practicing in particular (i) braking and (ii) looking behind over your shoulders while riding straight (both sides, in the end you should be able to look straight at what is 180º behind you by not only turning the head but also shoulders and hips while the wheel keeps going straight forward). This would only take a few minutes of practice every other day. Getting the head and eyes to move freely (looking left and right and up in the sky) while riding is also a good exercise which can be done during a normal ride. After that I practice regularly going up curbs and, more for the fun of it, small turns and riding backwards. Starting to feel somewhat safe and in control in most situations took more than 1/2 year and more than 1000km for me.
  3. 3 points
    You are still in the 'early' stages of learning (relatively speaking) if you're having trouble mounting under pressure or riding when people are watching. Learning to ride can be done in a day. But it takes weeks/months to master everything else (I'm still not there...:( Riding extremely slowly and mounting with a 100% success rate took me ages. Nowadays I can mount the wheel perfectly every time, even if people are staring at me and I've got four pints of beer in my bloodstream. So yes, you constantly get better, and better.....but unless you're learning tricks, the improvements are subtle in nature but no less rewarding once you've achieved them. On my Lhotz I now do sharp slaloms at 25kph that would've made me piss my pants (and crash) if I had done them even as little as 3 months ago. Just takes repetition until it really does become 'part of you' (psychologically at least). The other thing of course is the 'connection' you build with your wheel (not to sound too cheesy). Ive had my wheel for long enough that I know its every capability and behaviour. When I tried my friend Joe's Ninebot the other day I was quite nervous because of the change to your muscle memory and comfort factor. For a few minutes, at least handling wise, it was like I was a relative beginner again. So learning the ins and outs of your particular model and its handling is also important, and with time, an inevitability.
  4. 3 points
    There are plateaus on the learning curve. There will be times when you feef that you are not i proving and then, all of a sudden, your skills jump ahead. So this may be normal. At the same time, we learn by trying new things. Always push yourself to try something new once you are comfortable riding the way you are. And just practice - the best excercise to learn to ride is to ride.
  5. 2 points
    Sounds like many of the voices speaking so positively of the new firmware are not really that convinced or are trying to convince themselves of the opposite. What is wrong about pushing the bot to the limit, learning tricks, etc, are you serious about "do not do anything the instructions recommend you not to do"? I have fun pushing the limit even if that means having accidents, that is what a new technology is all about. Experimenting, losing the fear. Others perhaps only use their bots in more conservative ways, go from one place to another without surprises or hassles. Thats ok too. I would have never learned to control my ninebot the way I do without this pushing the limit behaviour. What is wrong about prefering a firmware that allows a more aggressive behaviour? If you dont like it, just dont push it, I prefer having that option and not a "tamed down" firmware that only seems to try to avoid Ninebot from being sued and for scared riders. Sure it will heat up sooner (just let it rest some more) and maybe the pedals might give us a big scare or even crash, in my opinion, that is what it is all about.
  6. 2 points
    Practice is definitely the key. I've been riding for more than a year now, and things that used to be hard are much easier. Several times I've had to make sudden evasive maneuvers and afterwards I'm amazed that I was able to do it. Examples: I was almost doored by a woman in a parked car while in a bike lane, managed to slow down quickly and then dodge the door. I was riding on a nature trail and came across a long snake spread across the trail, dodged that one too. Still, I manage to fall. Last week I was crossing a street and a car had pulled up too far into the crosswalk. I had to squeeze between the car and the curb and in the process scraped the pedal on the curb. In trying to keep the EUC from hitting the car I ended up falling, didn't get hurt or scraped but probably looked dumb.
  7. 2 points
    In addition to what has already been mentioned above, one reason that might make you feel like you're not improving is that after the initial hurdles are behind you, the "progress" becomes slower, but nevertheless is (likely) there. Over time and repetition, you get better at things, although you might just not realize it, you should start comparing your progress in longer time intervals, like how good you were at mounting a month or several ago vs. yesterday or last week. I didn't have any real "training regime", after the first weeks or months I mostly I just rode around for plain fun. But in the "early days", I did purposefully train basics, like curb hopping, mounting/dismounting, power braking etc. I can't put my finger when it exactly happened, but last summer at "some point" I just noticed that I could mount with 100% success rate always, I didn't have to "concentrate" on riding, it became more reflexive/instinctive (including emergency power braking whenever necessary), "second nature", I could ride through crowds at sub-walking pace crawl without needing to put my foot down etc. I can't even tell for sure how I do things, I "just do it" I did spend some time trying to learn to ride backwards, but didn't really learn to do it for however long I wanted to, more like few meters at a time, then I had to either stop or start moving forwards again not to loose my balance as the wheel started to veer to either side. Maybe this summer... Also, techniques that work for one person might not work for another. On flat roads, I ride pretty stiff-legged (ie. knees not bent) and control the acceleration and deceleration (braking) pretty much solely by leaning with my whole body, whereas some people tell you to ride with your knees bent all the time (which for me would probably kill my legs on 20+km trips ). As I rode with the stiff "sport-mode" of the Firewheel, I believe (especially at slow/crawl speeds) I also used my ankles a lot for more "fine-tuned" control of acceleration and deceleration, but never really paid that much attention to it. On off-road, I ride more bent-legged, as it's (for me) necessary to keep control in bumpy terrain with high pressure tire. Never learned the "skate-kick" mounting/starting, but I can mount with 100% success rate with the "standstill" mount (ie. one foot on pedal, rise the other foot to other pedal and get going by leaning forwards AFTER your feet are already on the pedals). For other people it's the other way around (and some probably use both techniques). But I believe that simply repetition and riding is the key, it certainly doesn't hurt to try what works for other people, but don't feel bad if a certain way of doing something doesn't work out for you, or if you feel you're progressing slower than some other rider.
  8. 2 points
    Just continue riding. You will eventually develop muscle memory and riding would be as normal as driving a car. Experience is the best teacher.
  9. 1 point
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  10. 1 point
    Let us make a list of conditions likely leading to EUC accidents and how we should handle them. Let me start by the following: 1. Bumps and potholes, especially those rocks under leaf shade or in the dark where their visibility is low. Prevention: Watch ahead and slow down before going over them with knees bending. Use larger wheel size. Use lights mounted low such as on the EUC instead high in helmet, which give you a better and consistent indication of bumps and holes ahead. Maybe a more powerful EUC can handle it better? 2. Sudden change of direction of an object ( a pedestrian, especially a child, a bike) that cuts into your way. Prevention: Slow down to no more than twice the speed of the pedestrian, slower if it is a child. Make noise before you pass them. Remember that EUC cannot brake as hard as a bike. 3. Zombies, a pedestrian walking while playing a cellphone. Prevention: same as for 2. 4. Sudden stop of an object in front of you. Prevention: Keep distance. Concentration with knee bending when you are close. 5. Open-door-kill. The idiot in a parked car suddenly opens the door when you are passing. Prevention: drive on sidewalk or keep a good distance from parked cars. 6. Going into a incline or railway track in a direction < 45 degrees from it, especially when the road is wet. Please add more, everyone.
  11. 1 point
    I tested the speed, range along mountain road in S. Korea. What I found is the range is highly dependent on amount of hills, rider's weight, speed of wind, especially the speed of the wheel and acceleration My weight: 67 kg Model used: Gotway MCM4 HS 680WH, 2016 version I hope you to know that in each ride I tried my best effort to maintain the speed in narrow range (1) 1st picture: range traveled: 18.7 km duration: 1hour 11 min the number of hill: lots of hills ( more than 200 hills) battery consumed: 40% the speed range when I saw on iPhone app: 28km/h - 33 km/h acceleration: hard ( I tried to catch up cycles, cars. all cycles were gotten past.) wind: strong headwind ( up to being able to keep my eyes opening) calculated range: 46.8 km = 29.08 miles (2) 2nd picture range traveled: 16.6 km duration: 1hour 31 min the number of hill: lots of hills ( more than 200 hills) battery consumed: 30% the speed range when I saw on iPhone app: 33km/h - 38 km/h acceleration: hard ( I tried to catch up cycles, cars. all cycles were gotten past.) wind: strong headwind (weaker than above) calculated range: 55.3 km = 34.4 miles (3) 3rd picture range traveled: 21.7 km duration: 1hour 49 min the number of hill: some of hills ( about small 20 hills and large 10 hills) battery consumed: 30% the speed range when I saw on iPhone app: 20km/h - 25 km/h acceleration: moderate wind: no headwind calculated range: 72.4 km = 45.0 miles Because I could not record all ranges by the cycling app I have traveled, I can not say the above is precise. However, based on several measurement of distance (calculated on gps map) when I almost used up the battery ( until 20% left ), I can tell that the above calculation is roughly correct. How about the ranges of your MCM4 or KC16, KC14? PS. I heard 3rd warning alarm around 35-38km/h (21.8-23.6mph) from my MCM HS when the battery is between 80-100% Is it normal?
  12. 1 point
    Once I knew how to ride, I started making short trips around the neighbourhood (5-10km). In total I made 150km so far. In the beginning, each time I got better and more secure. But now I feel that my skills don't improve any further. I get anywhere I want to go, but still don't feel 100% secure. It is worse when people are staring at me, then suddenly I am almost unable to mount the wheel and need to lean on a wall etc. Do you eventually improve just by riding distances? Or would you recommend special exercises?
  13. 1 point
    KS14c climbing a 32° skate ramp in slow motion.. (the rider is my son ~45kg)
  14. 1 point
    I know this shop in Nantes (west of France) who rents wheels : http://www.wheelers-store.com/produit/location/ And at a very good price !
  15. 1 point
    Same here, 1.18 with the 840wh premium cells model. Very stable even during high speed rides with a low battery. And the app odometer keeps counting (no resets). I recommend the update.
  16. 1 point
    I can agree with all of the above. I know i am pretty comfortable on my wheel, but I still can learn a lot too. I know I learn by challenging myself a bit on occasion, by doing stuff beyond comfort zone. Examples: doing extra sharp turns, feel the wheel through ditches, duck extra deep to avoid those branches, try what happens in the loose gravel. Also, I like to make it perfect, even I can do it very good altready. Coming to a full stop exactly where you want and put your foot down a second (or two or three) later. Go through that byciclepath turn and stay exactly the same distance from the side all the way through. Try the perfect coast (keeping your exact same speed). When successfull, it makes me feel good. I still cannot ride backwards, and I don't practice jumps. It is not really a requirement is it? I never could on my normal bike either But maybe some day though ...
  17. 1 point
    Yes you improve by riding distances, especially if not always on the same itinerary, and not always the same ground. I rode more than 3000km and I think I keep improving, although I make no effort at training. But it is probably slower than if you train in order to improve ! There are tons of videos with exercices or people showing off stuff that you could try to reproduce Training is a good idea, because while it does not eliminate danger, having good control skills can only help in awkward situations.
  18. 1 point
    @ThomasK, the 1.18 firmware version seems to me to be a stable release. I ride the KS16 daily and use the 1.18 version for more than 3 weeks now - no issues.
  19. 1 point
    Have you thought about using the 3d printer to make a mold and lay carbon fiber over it? CF is pretty easy to use for small one of projects.
  20. 1 point
    If this is still an option, please make it non- glossy and have easy access to the air valve. Thanks!
  21. 1 point
    Wheel rides in East of France (Besançon)
  22. 1 point
    Yeah, if it's like the older Gotways & King Songs, reading the data is fairly straight forward, as it they just keep repeating the values in same order at a steady rate. Difficult, yes, impossible, no. Starting with a ready-made and known-to-work -board also helps, because then there's no need to second-guess whether the faults are in the circuitry or the software And scrounging up some volunteer test pilots... Or getting some serious body armor
  23. 1 point
    Yes this EYU 8 inch is extremely difficult to use. However my daughters' learned on the Gotway 10 inch (mten) and I believe it's easier to learn on the mten than a 14 inch or higher.
  24. 1 point
    It's a bit of a confusing situation in terms of comparing the specs between the two. ACM motor is 1500w and the new Msuper will be 1200w. This came directly from Gotway reps. By those numbers alone one could assume that a larger diameter wheel and weaker motor would mean noticeably worse performance than the ACM. But maybe there is more to those numbers that affect performance. I don't know. It seems odd though.
  25. 1 point
    ESAJ, I read a few years back that Japan graduated 20X more engineers per capita than the U.S. The U.S on the other hand graduated 20X more lawyers per capita than Japan. Mike
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