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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Heey guys. had my ninebot for more dan a month and had the rubber on it. But used the wrong tape so it wouldnt come of.... So decided to use sticker removal... Well that ruined my bot. And off course a lot of scratches from dropping it and falling. so i started to mod my Ninebot it is the start and i will update as soon as i get my wrapping foil. so first i sprayed the pedals in black. and then i took some leather (sheeps nappa is the thinest so more practical one) and covered the battery cover. As the leather can withstand more beatings than the original cover. Next step will be wrapping it in Velvet foil... Black. Im curious how its going to look... But just to be sure I also ordered some plasti dip. what do you think of my mod
  2. 2 points
    4 I believe, which is my usual setting. Here's some footage of some slow riding.
  3. 2 points
    I did try out a small lap in the forest with a low-powered flashlight (so didn't see that far ahead of me ). I'm not sure if it's caused by the wheel bouncing of the ground or if it's the accelerometer causing stronger reaction, but hitting larger bumps, the wheel "kicks back" stronger than before when it straightens itself up. Got a bit surprised when it did the first time, luckily nothing happened. Also, after riding, I was pushing the wheel (still on) to the garage, and there's a tallish (about 5cm/2inch) step on the door frame. The tire jumped up a bit, hit the ground, jumped again etc., and each time it hit the ground the motor was pushing it in the opposite direction (as I was holding it, so it was swiveling back and forth). For a second there I thought it's going to get out of hand (as I can't get a good grip on it with no handle), but luckily it settled down pretty fast Yeah, need that handle... Also managed to shoot some video while riding my "test lap" on the street, I used the light on the iPhone camera, and it didn't come out as dark as I feared, actually it shows the tire reflectors nicely (when shooting by holding the phone on my side), luckily I also managed to point it in the generally right direction and not just shoot the tarmac whizzing by. Didn't try any really high speeds here, as I don't want to break the phone (it's not mine, it's the company's ) and I feel I still need to get more accustomed to the wheel. Edit: The white "blob" here and there is my finger in front of the lens as I move the phone to shoot from another position
  4. 1 point
    This is my "labor of love" that was born out of the need for hobby16 to have a app for recording data from his custom telemetry-devices (he's still working on those, as far as I know) and reverse-engineering the protocol used by Gotways and (at least) older King Songs. If your wheel works with the Gotway-app, it should work with this. It's pretty rough around the edges still, and not extensively tested, should work fine now, but I give no guarantees of anything. This is the first time I've written any software directly to Android, and in total have maybe about one weeks worth of experience with it, so there can be all sorts of quirks and problems with different Android-versions (and even different devices using the same version). YMMV I tested the application installation & usage process with vee's Huawei-phone (Android 4.2.2, that's where the screenshots are from) and I've tested it during development with my Lenovo A10-70 A7600-F (or something along those line, Android 4.4.2) -tablet. Here's instructions for installation & usage: Github-release: https://github.com/esaj/Wheelemetrics/releases/tag/160126 Github sources: https://github.com/esaj/Wheelemetrics Forum download: It's a basic Android apk, should be no developer-mode needed or anything, but your phone must be allowed to install software outside Google Play/whatever they're usually got from. If you've installed the Gotway-app from outside Google Play, you should be good to go, otherwise: After downloading the app, and starting to install it, you are requested to accept the permissions the application needs: Modify or delete the contents of your SD card: The application writes log files to your sd-card & stores settings Access Bluetooth settings / pair with Bluetooth devices: Well, duh, the application uses bluetooth to talk with your wheel Control vibration: Vibration is used for speed warnings (the warnings can be disabled inside the app, see later in this post) Test access to protected storage: I must admit that I have no idea what this is... read-rights for SD-card? No usage data or similar is collected or sent anywhere (as you see, the app has no rights to connect to internet), also I don't keep any records of when, who or where is accessing the file for download (probably the server hosting it has some logs, but I don't think I even have access to those). Use as you wish, but if you decompile it (it isn't obfuscated) and make a gazillion dollars thanks to it (like that's going to happen anyway :D), please do at least consider giving a small donation to me For the more technically inclined, here are the required permissions from AndroidManifest.xml: After installation, this is shown: Run in background is probably needed so that the app won't fall asleep even if your phones' screen does (there are calls to prevent the display from turning off, but I have no idea whether they work on all phones and all power-saving settings and whatnot). If you plan on trusting the vibration-alerts to keep you from riding over the speed-cliff, better turn that on (it was off by default at least on vee's phone). Opening the application should show you the following screen (note that it's locked into landscape-mode, but will rotate 180 degrees if you turn your phone upside down): The Speed, Power, Voltage, Current, Temperature, Trip & Odo -texts are replaced with actual values after the wheel is connected. On the right side are buttons for connecting to the wheel (Connect), hiding/showing speed warning settings (Speed Warnings), hiding/showing the graph in the middle (Graph view) and for recording telemetry data (Record). When Connect-button is tapped, this view will be opened: By default it will show all already paired BT-devices that support the SPP (Serial Port Profile), others will be filtered off the list. If your wheel is not yet paired, you can tap the "Scan for devices". Wait a while, as the scanning might take some time. I left out the filtering of SPP-devices only from scanning, in hindsight, probably should have done that. Anyway, this is the result when I scanned for devices: That's my TV, and my work computer. GotWay_0763 is probably vee's MSuper, and GotWay_1200 is his MCM2s, so I connect to that (of course the wheel must be already turned on at this point). After successful connection (you might have to try it again in case it doesn't go on first go, but usually it seems to work pretty well), the values on the main display will start updating and the graph is being drawn: The graph -view can be scrolled back and forth by swiping (I think I set it to save last 500 samples or so), and zoomed in with pinching. Under the graph view are a couple of text boxes, button to clear the graph and selection for which value is graphed: Update graph - controls whether the graph is updated or not, in case you want to "stop it" to check something closer Scroll to end - controls whether the graph will jump to the end when new data arrives, you might want to uncheck this if you want to scroll backwards while new data is coming in (ie. graph is updated) Clear graph - clears the graph. Pretty self-explanatory, huh? Voltage - This is the button (well, a "Spinner" in Android-lingo, kinda like a drop-down list) used to change what is being shown in the graph, hitting it you're given a list of choices: Picking any of these, the graph will be cleared and it will begin graphing the chosen value from incoming data. Here I've switched it to show power and nudged the wheel a bit (it's actually leaning against my desk here, so the power is really low): (BTW, the grey rectangles below are the text-edit field for writing commands to the wheel, and the lighter gray is the "Send"-button, they just don't fit in this small screen, and you probably won't need them. If you want to play around with those, see the command listing in the Gotway/Kingsong protocol reverse-engineering -topic: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/870-gotwaykingsong-protocol-reverse-engineering/?do=findComment&comment=10155). The graph can be hidden with the "Graph view"-button, if you want to see just the immediate values and the graph feels like it's distracting: "Speed Warnings" -button show the current settings for the speed warnings: You can set the values between 4/5 (first/second warning) and 43/44km/h (first/second warning). Enable warnings"-checkbox can be used to enable/disable the warnings, they're enabled by default. Settings are saved & remembered after restart. Note that if you don't hide the graph-view before pulling up the speed warning-settings, it will look a bit weird on small screen: If you haven't got enough screen real-estate, hide the graph view first so it's easier to use the settings Sorry, I know that the UI still sucks balls The last button (Record) on the right-side controls the recording of telemetry-data. If you tap it, the text will change to show "Stop record". The app is now recording incoming data from the wheel. You can change the graphed value and warning settings etc., it will store all incoming data regardless of the UI: After you hit stop record, the app will ask under what name the file should be saved: Actually, the file is already saved in the directory & name the dialog shows, basically you can just rename it here. If you hit cancel, the file will still be there under the original name "wheelemetrics_log_YYYYMMDD_HHmmSS.txt", where Y/M/D/H/m/S are replaced with year, month, day, hour, minute and second of the time you started to record. WARNING: Should you choose an existing filename the app will NOT ask whether you want to overwrite, but simply overwrite directly, destroying the original data... Probably something I should work on The format of the file is comma-separated values, as follows: TIMESTAMP, SPEED, POWER, VOLTAGE, CURRENT, TEMPERATURE, TRIP, ODO where TIMESTAMP is milliseconds since the epoch (1.1.1970 12AM GMT). The data rate seems to be 5Hz (one data packet per 200ms), but the timestamp drifts a bit as it's stored in the app, and there can be delays, like BT-packet retransmits and the software handling of the packets might cause some delays here and there SPEED is the speed in kilometers per hour (dot as separator) POWER is the power used, calculated simply as VOLTAGE * CURRENT (the wheel does not send this), rounded down to nearest integer VOLTAGE is, well, voltage in volts (dot as separator) CURRENT is current in amperes (dot as separator) TEMPERATURE is the temperature in Celsius (dot as separator), I think it's measured from the mosfets of the mainboard itself, not from motor TRIP is the trip meter since last start up, in kilometers (dot as separator) ODO is the odometer, ie. the total mileage of the wheel, in kilometers (dot as separator) And that's pretty much it. The app is closed totally by hitting Back-button, before which it will still check with you. (And this time it really should close itself up properly, unlike the earlier version linked elsewhere in the forums ) The app SHOULD work fine even if it's backgrounded but still running, but I haven't tested this very extensively, so please be careful in case you're using it to prevent going over the speed cliff and it crashes/falls asleep while you don't notice
  5. 1 point
    So I finally got everything up to do my write-up of the controller/motor replacement, so if anybody want's to know what this was about, I put some fairly detailed log here: http://www.myewheel.org/index.php5/Controller_replacement_30km/h
  6. 1 point
    So I went past Halfords today and thought I'd go in and have a look After 'reviewing' all the legal nonsense being banded about lately about these things (edit - not the Unicycle, but segways / hoverboards / scooters etc.!) I kinda thought I should have a red light at the back and a white light at the front. Not so much to draw (even more!) attention to myself, but to 'be seen' to be trying at least? Anyhoo, there were some lovely expensive items on the shelves and I almost opted to spend over £20 on a pair until I got back to near the checkout when I spotted these little gems. Halfords 'own brand' and the code 166540 on the packaging, with a price tag of £5. Back home, and looking at mounting options I realised I could just 'prize' them out of the rubber 'bandings' supplied and just stick them to the frame? Got the rear one gluing as I type (24hr Aero-poxy) and will do the front tomos I'm sure there are cheaper ones on that infamous auction site we all love, which rhymes with 'fleabate', but these looks good enough for the job - alloy housings, and 30 hrs on 2xCR2032 cells (card of eight from the pound shop? all included with these particular items - just need to pull the tag!) at 'steady glow' or 60 hrs on flashing mode. Also saw some pretty snazzy pumps in the bike section but resisted the urge there
  7. 1 point
    You could counter that it's "one wheel" with two tires. XD I rode the Inmotion for 9 miles again on Friday. I end up with 2 battery bars left after using 4 of the 6 bars and so the range is roughly consistent. It can be used for commuting I think, especially if you can plug it in the office. Everyone would probably agree that two tires is harder to ride but because of that it is also fun. I am also of the opinion my single wheel riding is improving because of it. There is a great deal of depth in becoming proficient in riding dual tire. I might make a video some time. For example it's harder to make a precise sweeping arc as you turn when riding on both tires - but if you tip on one wheel you can make super tight turns. You really have to learn both ways to turn (wide or tight) and various other techniques to ride effectively.
  8. 1 point
    thanks @Daan it was super useful to read all the previous posts amd they where super nice, so I have never used the strap and learned directly to jump on it. ? Regarding tte grass fall, I know that the fact I'm a newby is not the reason. The wheel lost the proper grip on the track. This is exactly the noise it made and it react in the same way. it literally tossed grass couple of meters away. I felt it just runing from under me. https://youtu.be/tdWxadBHayU Also ips zero 130wh is 9.6kg
  9. 1 point
    I'm not sure that I've got this right but from what is written above they are offering to repair or replace the unit once you've returned it but so far you've just sent them a video? If that is so what are you expecting from them? You can't reasonably expect them to send you a replacement until you return the original.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Nice! Did you ride it yet? You should totally trick it out! Darken the wood, coppercolor the aluminium add a few skulls and chains and the steampunk coffinwheel extraoridinaire is born! \m/
  12. 1 point
    First version is ready for ride now, although since it was already over midnight, the street lights were out, and I didn't want to risk trying it in the pitch black darkness outside. I did push it around for some time, about few hundred meters worth, to see that it still works, and did some "hopping" with my other foot on the pedal, but of course can't say anything about how it rides based on that. Tomorrow I'll try it out in daylight. http://imgur.com/a/1zT8I Ran into some trouble with the charge-port & power-button... I don't have a 16mm drill bit, and my smallest hole saw is 32mm So, I drilled them with 12mm bit (the largest I had) and filed the holes bigger. That took a while. Then I had to make a "pedestal" for the voltage-display, as it's both too deep and too wide to fit inside the mainboard compartment. It came out pretty good, although I again had to do a lot of drilling & filing to get it to fit. It's tight enough that the display won't get thrown off even if the wheel crashes. The picture above is testing that it works with a single battery pack. There are more pictures in the album about fitting the pieces inside, this is the last one before I closed everything up. In hindsight, I should have taped the foams around the packs on the other side too, figured it too late (well, of course I could have just pulled them out and redo the wiring, but didn't bother right now ). Not too much space, but still enough to fit everything. And despite being tight, it's still so much easier to work with than the original shells. All closed up and pedals in place in the latter picture. I put a "tie down strap" around the frame to keep it closed. There is still the problem remaining about how I'm going to close up the top part of the aluminum frame, as I cannot get the nuts behind the bars with the casing in the way... something I didn't think about too much when making the casing Any ideas? I thought that maybe I could use threaded rod that goes through the upper part in front and back (sideways) and use nuts on both sides, like this: Trying to give some scale of how big the wheel is... and yeah, that jacket is huge At some point I noticed that in certain corners of the garage I could see my breathing (steam), so guess it's pretty cold. Didn't really notice it though Front view. The dimensions are: about 68cm tall from ground, about 15cm wide, about 43cm in length. Might sound large, but it isn't THAT big. KS18 is actually as tall (and wider), the specs say: Machine size (mm): 680mm(H) x 465mm(L) X 190mm(Thickness) Of course this is only 16", but the frame could probably hold a 18" motor too (At least as long as the pedal frame bolts fit and the width of the motor is the same, otherwise it requires modifications). There are no lights yet (the front ride light is 22mm in diameter, so I guess I should get a drill bit for that, ain't going to file a hole that big), or then just wait until I get the 3000-lumen (yeah, probably not really as much as advertised, but I'd expect them to be bright enough ) led spots I ordered a while back. No back light either, it's actually white, so I also need a piece of transparent red plastic for that too (or just mutilate the original red plastic from the original shells). Also need to add some sort of handle, while tall, it's not tall enough that I could hold it with my hand without crouching. I thought I'd place a round piece of wood between two pieces of aluminum flat, that swivel around two bolts holding the other ends. That way I could turn the handle up when I need to use it, and swivel it underside when riding... will have to take a closer look if that's going to work. And also need to add some foam padding on the sides, I don't want to rip my jeans on any sharp corners on the vertical supports (the sides of the bars aren't sharp, but the cut corners are, have to file them down some time).
  13. 1 point
    I own a MSpuer MS and have several test rides of Xtreme and KS18 from my friends. KS18 special edition(1360Wh) could be the most powerful and fastest of the three(even compared to MSuper HS). The motor is different than other 18" models(the motors for Xtreme, MSuper and even SBU are the same from appearance). However, the pedal size is very small making it difficult to accelerate or to make hard brake, meaning also it cannot climb steep slop(there are four prerequisites for steep slop climbing, pedal size is one of them). Another weakness is prone to overheat when climbing. Of course we have solved these problems. For Xtreme, I feel it's too soft, slow to respond and pedal dipping while turning. When the battery running out, it is OUT. Every other EUCs I tested can be restarted in this situation when switched off for a while. A restarted out-of-battery EUC can be dragged-riding and we have done this countless times. Below is the photo taken by my friend Yesterday being dragged by me. We were on an unfinished long bridge(no cars are allowed yet) and his battery is running out. I dragged him for 6km. All he has to do is to apply a slightly brake action and his wheel even be recharged when moving. Had he ridden and Xtreme, he would have to carry it for 6km. Luckily, the rider of Xtreme finished the 21km trip.
  14. 1 point
    Hope it's nothing serious. Kids do bounce!
  15. 1 point
    So how was the food at the mental facility you escaped from?
  16. 1 point
    Well done @Villac . The good that I am doing to provide inspiration. It is precisely my intention. And at the same time to get the manufacturers to wake up to the fact that, these devices need to start manufacturing in particular, also Exreme use. By the way .. Slightly lower air pressure helps to jump over a stone street.
  17. 1 point
    I think for everyday wrist/hand protection is the most important, quickly learnt this
  18. 1 point
    @1kw, I've never searched for larger motors, I think I've seen some on manufacturer pages, but it didn't catched may eyes on any of the 'normal' chinese seller pages. I can only tell you that microworks also sells the shells and pedal+bar separately, so you can finally build a complete wheel.
  19. 1 point
    I finally managed to do my writeup of the controller/motor change, so maybe you find some useful info here: http://www.myewheel.org/index.php5/Controller_replacement_30km/h
  20. 1 point
    "Noooo, Officer, I did not ride anything illegal! I was kidnapped!! Charge the Grim Reaper!!!
  21. 1 point
    Hmmm, I haven't checked yet, but do german laws actually specify, that steering wheels or handlebars have to be physically attached to the vehicle? Otherwise, we could take an old bicycle handlebar with a bell, hold it in front of us while riding our EUC, and be legal
  22. 1 point
    just another article I forgot to mention: http://www.edn.com/design/sensors/4406682/Brushless-DC-Motors---Part-I--Construction-and-Operating-Principles
  23. 1 point
    @Rash: Ok, thanks, still I'm too curious and will just give it a short try, unfortunately less time atm. @PedalFaster: Ok, can you be more precise on how to do it. What I did is, without any preknowledge of the chip, went down from the connectors I've seen on the board, so at this time I could not choose one from several roads. Do you mean that you can flash a discovery STM32 with a certain firmware so it can communicate to the controller STM32 or do you mean to reroute one of the debug access ways from the discovery board to the controller board? The JTAG adapter I bought was a very, very, very cheap one compared to what else is there on the market, and finally it has just a FTDI2322 on it, something similar (FTDI232) of what I already used for the LPC chips programmer and which is well known from nearly all those cheap USB-RS232 converters. @oschemes: I currently build up my knowledge so nothing I can provide right away, but the topic is very interesting so motivation is currently high and I have all the hardware to play with. An short update into the direction of a own firmware is that I analysed and documented the controller layout as far as I understood it. I read some good articles on BLDC motor controlling and everything that's digital is very simple to see, so I know were all the leds, the I2C(MPU6050), the hall sensors, the H bridge FETs are, but I'm very unsure about the analog stuff, there are 4 operation amplifiers and 2 wires which go somewhere. Just from logically thinking I could think of these missing functions: Measurement of total power (ampere) which is needed for good BLDC control, maybe there is 3 phases power measurment also. And one of the unknown wires is probably the voltage measurement.
  24. 1 point
    well ?......I've never been in prison. That's got to count for something. Not even an Airwheel? ?
  25. 1 point
    I am so used to this... You buy something and then either the price drops or the new version arrives... Never look back. I'll stick to my e+ and when it dies of old age i will look what the market then has to offer.
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