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  2. Planemo

    App problems V5F

    Good work! You will be fine. Many people struggle to mount without help and ride off. I spent a lot of time on doing it at the beginning and am fine with it now, others have lots of miles under their belt and still struggle to mount. Horses for courses. Theres no 'right' way. Whatever works for you. Everyone gets it in the end, but some prefer to develop their skills in different orders
  3. Marty Backe

    Z10 BMS FW 1.1.7 - Vampire Drain

    I can say that I never noticed any behavior changes with any of the control or bms updates. So you can feel comforted in knowing that you're not missing out on anything. My Z10 still drains the battery every day.
  4. Gasmantle

    App problems V5F

    Many thanks guys, I uninstalled the app then reinstalled and it now seems to be behaving itself I'm pleased with the wheel and think I'll get the hang of it after a couple of days, at the moment my main problem is getting on it - I need to hold onto something but once I'm on I can kinda make a bit of progress
  5. Ok, now you can dig into technical details of your rides with wheel parameters chart. You can see an example here - https://euc.world/tour/574114443294078 - this is one of my short city rides. What is interesting you can clearly see that I ride King Song wheel - just look at speed chart. There is difference between GPS speed and speed reported by the wheel. It was discussed many times on this forum and here is the proof. KS-16, KS-18L and KS-18XL - all my three wheels inflates speed by about 20%.
  6. Totally agree with you. I think that it just needs a new generation motor, maybe specifically designed for an 18" before we see any real increase in 18" acceleration. I think we probably already have the battery power we need though tbh. Using the same small wheel motor in bigger wheels is just going to give a reduction in torque as we have all agreed on. I appreciate that designing and building a new motor from scratch is big money though. I am surprised that there is nothing from the Ebike world that could be used, there have been many generations and a lot of advances in the area, way more development than the euc industry I feel. It really doesnt bother me personally, and I am sure lots of folks love their 18"+ wheels, but given I see so much talk of people constantly wanting more, I was suprised to see it wasnt being done on the bigger stuff. I think you have answered the question - its just that none of the big players have decided to invest in a dedicated 'big wheel' motor yet.
  7. Nja, jag skulle inte köpa från någon säljare som jag inte kollat upp först, så att de har bra omdömen och kanske helst några här på forumet som redan har köpt därifrån. Jag köpte mitt första Ali-hjul från Intelligent Walking Store, och Nikolan nu från Wheel Tech Store. En bra sak att tänka om du köper från Ali är att välja rätt fraktalternativ. Ofta har de två, men det brukar vara "sellers shipping" som gör att det att mellanlandar och skeppas inifrån Europa. Säljaren brukar kunna skriva ut det men om det inte står så se till att välja rätt. Långsammare dock, åker väl med båt först.
  8. Declan acoustic-unicyclist

    KingSong 14S 840wh - $650 - Washington DC

    Wheel has been sold
  9. rinzler

    Tesla tummy rumbles

    I finally got my Tesla in hand. Bit disappointed with the seller at the moment for a few different reasons. Won't call them out just at the moment as it's how they respond in such circumstances. Anyhow, just and observation. My Tesla makes a large grumbling sound like it's hungry. A high pitch whine is also present as is a kind of clicky/cogging sound when moving the euc forward or backward. I've looked at some other unboxings circa 2017 and i can hear some of that high pitch noise but the other two sound more worriesome (although to my ears that high pitch is tres annoying!) Is this the standard experience? I am concerned that this might be a deeper rooted issue.
  10. I think a full face helmet should be mandatory on speeds greater than 20km/h. Although I rode for thousands of km with just a skateboard helmet and have never had a serious incident, I recently upgraded to a full face mountain bike helmet after seeing some videos of wipeouts on here. I do not want to end up breaking my nose or jaw from a faceplant, or worse a traumatic brain injury https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZz8EN_NKw&t=534s What took me so long to get one was the worry that I would attract too much attention with the more serious looking helmet, basically. That and I can't drink a coffee while I ride anymore. But I do feel that it was a good decision. I ride a MSuper X set to tilt back at 36km/h, in practice I top out at 40km/h. It feels really fast - too fast to run off should something happen. The two incidents I have had, one resulted in me ending up flat on my stomach on the sidewalk. I had my car keys in my pocket and they cut my leg and stabbed through my jeans. That was on a cheap 120wh wheel where the physical power switch (poor design) failed and it shut off at 12km/h. That wipeout was like some describe where you are riding one second and on the ground the next - no time to react. Slow enough that I wasn't really hurt but if the speeds were higher it would've been a different story. The other time I fell of the wheel was with my KS16b. I was riding through a field at nearly top speed (30km/h) and I hit a large divot in the grass. Luckily with this one I was in a crouching position and was able to run it out. So you never know what could happen, better to be prepared.
  11. Mykhailo

    Ninebot One Z10 wobbling at higher speed

    My height is 1,82 and my weight is 90 kg. After several test I concluded that the optimal tyre pressure for me is 2.3 bar. I had issues with wobbling as well till I made 300-400 km. I noticed that the wheel tended to wobble more when I had bent knees. And I just needed to straighten my legs to stop it. But with experience and adjustment of pressure the issue is not disturbing me anymore. When I quickly lift the wheel to get it spinning, I see that the wheel is far from perfect as there is an play of couple mm, which I thought was the reason of wobbles. But the real reason was just my inexperienced legs :))
  12. phatmike

    Ninebot Z10 Carving?

    I think that the KS 18 L (or xl) is the best carver
  13. esaj

    First wheel

    Looks like this post had been lingering in the approval queue for quite some time (since last Sunday morning) without anyone noticing, sorry about that. I won't go into what wheel you should get, but there's at least one reseller in New Zealand, run by @The Fat Unicyclist.
  14. Mykhailo

    Z10 BMS FW 1.1.7 - Vampire Drain

    I still use the bms firmware v1.1.2 and I noticed that I cannot update to 1.1.7 anymore. The update just disappeared from the app, though earlier it was appearing every time I launched nb app. At certain point I updated the app to v. 4.5.7 (iOS), but I cannot say if the fw update disappeared after update or earlier. My z10 was produced during week 43 and came with fw 1.0.5 out of box. The bms update was appearing both on WiFi and 3G connection. Does still have a possibility to update the bms to 1.1.7? Is it possible that nb cancelled this update as it didn’t actually solve the issue of battery draining when the device is switched off?
  15. seage

    Has anybody problems withe the new kingsong app

    aye, i read that first (as you linked me directly to it). Ive already messaged him in the app. But of course, time differences. Waiting for a response later when hes awake.
  16. That's imho mainly a firmware/"calves grip" problem? The 18Xl is reported to have a insensitive firmware and needs much leaning to perform?
  17. houseofjob

    Ninebot Z10 Carving?

    Yeah, I'm with you on the Z speed, definitely wish there was more of it (without hacking the FW). For sure, I love the quick carve of a 2.5" just as much as the delay of the Z 4.1". Probably 2.5" is the bare minimum width before you start sacrificing bump absorption too. The Z is definitely about anticipation, but you have more of a timeframe to do it I think. Yes, the Z is weaker braking than the competition, but I feel I can shift and anticipate easier than a quick reacting 2.5" wide, in order to S-curve to shave off speed. (and wow, you have a lot of slower wheels for a guy who likes speed! No Monster though? ) Sure thing~ As much as I love my Z, if this will be your one-and-only wheel to rule-them-all, that KS18L might be a better first buy for the versatility. But your call in the end, the Z can suffice by itself as long as you accept the practical limitations (lack of long-range, no speed charger, not top-of-the-line speed, etc.).
  18. Maybe. Its getting close at least, lol Thanks. I didn't. I was directed by Vicky Huang to use the in app chat feature, and it said his name at the top, so im guessing we're all speaking to the same dude. Poor lads bout to be overloaded, lol.
  19. Welcome @Johnw! Get in contact with inmotion directly via service@imscv.com. they are very helpful, and active here in the forum, too. For the V10(F) they have for example replacement motherboard/special firmwares for known bugs/faults. Presumably for the V8, too. While you are waiting for reply: 1) measure the charger voltage. Should be around 84V. Multimeters are cheap and nothing fancy is needed. 2) look at the reported voltage from the wheel once it is fully charged - that's more "accurate" than the charge %. 3) open the wheel and measure the battery output voltage. _Do_ _not_ _short_ the battery output! Not even for a split second - the multimeter probe tip will melt and molten glowing metal drops could fly around! Also be sure to have the multimeter set the voltage measurement and not current measurement == short circuit. Maybe start step 3 after you were in contact with inmotion - depending on your electronics expertise? 4) if everything looks bad the last step would be to open the battery pack and measure the individual cell voltages to identify/verify bad cells. A smart charger cannot rejuvenate bad cells. Nothing can make bad liion cells better... Bad/aged cells get the most stress in the pack and degrade by this faster than the good cells - so no hope for future use... Afaik the highest risk with liion cells is while charging and using the cells? So do not charge the wheel unattended and at placed were fire would be a real hazard. Cell replacement is no huge problem, but also not a simple task. Cells should be spot welded and not soldered. Cells with prewelded nickel strips are available and depending on the internal battery pack design the different nickel strips could be soldered together. But still one end of the 18650 liion cells is "very heat sensitive". One wants all the contacts "perfect" and secure to get the best performance and the wheel does not stop while riding... After replacing the cells the pack has to be "repacked" for mechanical "tightness" and water/humidity protection. And as written above the do not shorten anything applies again for the whole process! Afaik Inmotion has an own aliexpress shop, were the dustribute their wheels? Inmotion wheels are sold via gearbest. Maybe spare parts, too? Ask service@imscv.com for the best place to get batteries once you are sure you need new ones. I would not buy battery packs from unknown sources... For a new wheel the top recommendations here seem to be the GW MSX and the KS18XL. Also the Tesla and the V10? If a smaller older not as performant wheel is ok the KS16S is very nice. The GW Nikolai and the KS16X are to come on the market shortly. Both seem to be very promising. PS.: Storing 4-5 month at 2/3-3/4 charge sounds good and should not lead to any problem - if it was not at a very "hot place". Perfect are 40% charge below 25°C and above freezing.
  20. stephen

    Meeting the p.officer today :)

    I don't go to work on it I've done enough by 2pm ,,,25 miles+😊
  21. Mykhailo

    Music & Z10

    Lol, is there an app for ios?
  22. Today
  23. Remember that you guys are 14s packs on the Z10, instead of 15S packs on all other Ninebots on earth. In case you are seeking a custom pack, be sure they realize this when they hear Ninebot.
  24. Twiggen

    Ninebot Z10 Carving?

    Wow, thank you all for the incredibly detailed responses! Clears up a lot of things I wanted to know, and more too I'm still leaning more towards a Z10, but now I won't feel as bad if I find a KS18L for a better deal, both sound like great wheels.
  25. seage

    Has anybody problems withe the new kingsong app

    Eyy! My people! I can't change my speed settings either. Actually I CAN technically. But once i do, i cant change them back again since they'll be locked at 20, when my wheels unlocked. Because i cant bind, yay.
  26. I'll respond too since I just upgraded from an S1 to a KS16S, so not quite a big, but @Rama Douglas let me try his 18XL. The biggest difference I noticed going from the S1 to either the 16 or 18 was how much sturdier they felt. The S1 has a very "soft" ride by comparison and the wheel leans way more than either the 16 or 18, but we both had our wheel setting to "experienced" whereas intermediate/beginner give more of that soft ride you get from the S1 (after riding for a few minutes you'll probably prefer the experienced mode as well). I had the S1 for about 6 months before upgrading, the thing I found surprising is that I didn't think the wheel was under powered until I rode the K16S for an hour and then went back to the S1 and all the sudden I felt how easily I could overpower it. In terms of control, the 18 takes a little longer to accelerate/slow down, it reaches further up between your legs so you will not be able to tilt the euc between your legs to turn as steeply as you can on the S1, instead you'll need to use a little more body motion. Overall the 18 was a ton of fun and for distance rides I can easily see it's appeal, just give it a day or two of riding before you make your judgments. Coming from the S1 to the K16S at first I really questioned if I made the right choice, but a day or two later I fully adjusted and just love the wheel now.
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