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  2. https://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=Deuteronomy+32%3A10&version=ESV
  3. Its had a long lasting effect on this customer. I no longer look at that brand while considering the next wheel. I patron locally when possible. This includes paying a 3rd party to handle the taxes and mediate the warranty. I've yet to ever import things from grey markets and I can't justify doing so. I guess Toyota is off my list now too. Sucks because I used to swear by Locksong and Toyota. If consumers continue to buy from companies that practice this kind of thing, I get to blame THEM and the company. Gotway and Veteran are looking REALLY good nowadays, as with automobiles that arent part of the borg system of thinking. Fukn criminals and their tax evasion in order to buy shit cheap. It is at least fun to listen how intelligent people claim ignorance when it comes to taxes, imports and their wallets.
  4. There are two sides to every story and not every situation is the same, so we should not generalize this to every consumer and situation. I have full understanding of what LockSong is doing but I may not agree to how they have implemented this. The good news is that they are working with consumers on a case by case basis to resolve their locking issues on "illegally" imported goods. I have yet to see the following situation: Someone buys a KS wheel with the "P" designation in the serialnumber from china and self-imports the wheel to EU/US Said person pays all import duties and VAT Said person gets wheel locked remotely by KS Said person show proof of duty & VAT payments Most situations skip step 2 and 4 in this scenario, thus they have taken a risk of buying a geo-locked wheel and in my book they can blame themselves for doing a grey import of a device that was ment for another market only. The responsibility is on the reseller, and you can always get a refund if your device is locked. I have a similar situation with my Toyota Prius that I legally imported from the US to EU. The navigation system in the car needs a map update as it only has the north american map from the factory. Toyota Europe refuses to sell me the map update as the car was not bought in Europe. I think it is shitty practice, but I can not 100% blame them for their policy. This situation is VERY similar. Manufacturers get away with this because they have a product that the consumer wants. I do not think LockSongs practices will have a long lasting effect on the consumer behavior.
  5. Today
  6. Scottie888

    Gotway RS

    Ya but buddy did say he was going ~28mph all the way! As we all know, as speed goes up, power consumption goes up not linearly but more like exponentially. I bet if the test was done at 20mph, range will be closer to 50mile range & if one can sustain a catatonic 12mph, I bet it can easily do 60-70miles.
  7. Registration is still open. There are 54 riders attending so far. It's going to be awesome. Here's a teaser from Day 1 of last year's Tour
  8. You're right, sorry. The blocks go with the pedal hangers. But you do have an interesting thought there - maybe wait until installing the pedal hangers to tighten the motor mounts at the same time? My wheel hasn't changed in a few days. I realized that the shafts are rotating along with the arms in the slider and top holes, so my thrust bearing there are doing effectively nothing. They won't hurt anything, but it's not a great design. I guess I should just leave it as is and get the wheel back together.
  9. Makes sense, thanks! Haha, yeah, never been into moto (clearly)...unfortunately just been reading too many injury threads the past couple of days has me paranoid, especially agronick & rehab's. We all have our own decisions to make with how much risk is ok for our situations...I'm the lone income earner in a family of 4 so I'm good with ATGATT even if it takes extra time to gear up...even then that might not be enough. The tracksuit isn't the answer though. Oh well, have to give it some more thought..maybe I'll just stop reading so much! Actually...let me go read up on AFLAC, maybe that's the best solution...
  10. This may be a bit overkill, but it is probably worth looking into it for riders who already suffered injuries and need some extra protection. With the Sherman now being out on the streets it might be worth thinking about an airbag system like this when touring in high speed traffic (which I don’t suggest to do 😝!) Guys who have the bucks to buy a Sherman, can and should probably spend 1/3 of the wheels price for safety equipment. I already ordered myself a new helmet and some cool gloves 🧤
  11. Holy crap man, its a unicycle, not a track bike. If you've been a moto racer at all, you already know that wearing a full track suit is a bitch. Of course you also know that you're going to fall off at 60mph and get run over by someone doing 90mph. Look into lighter weight gear that still carries d30 armor. You can always buy standard pants (baggy) and add some GREAT knee pads in them. The best padding is the one that fits best. I have pads in my mesh pants, but Im not lying to myself and thinking they are as good as knee pads strapped to my knees. Same with elbows and the like. Winter gear is easier as you are wearing layers anyhow. Cotton and basic nylon doesnt hold up very well in a slide, but when you wear 4 layers of it and your slide is at 20mph... well, you get the gist. Most important is to have gear that isnt such a bitch to wear, that you don't. It has to fit. Expensive ill fitting gear is shit, in compare to cheap fitting gear. My pants and jacket are designed for light duty morotcycle (its my supermoto gear), but its honestly too light for any real street moto use. I use it for my euc now, as an euc is basically 'light street use" w/o the 200lbs bike crushing me on the way down. Broken collar bones and legs are hard to avoid, no matter what gear you fit on. I'd suggest snagging some flexmeters, some scott knee pads, a cheap brain bucket, and just gather pieces as you go. Look into bicycle gear and skateboard gear, as it more closely resembles our sport, than street/track racing does. If you buy a decent jacket, itll have pockets. Invest in the d30 armor that fits. When you wind up with multiple jackets, you can easily swap the armor. My jackets wear out, LONG before the d30 seems to. Of course, my all time favorite gear is a t-shirt, blue jeans, sunglasses and a smoke.
  12. According to your formula - avg miles per charge cycle, then my oldie MCM3 should get at least 65,000 miles! [ 13 mi avg range p charge X 5,000 charges ] = 65,000 mi.
  13. I have had this problem. Wheel got away from me on a steep hill and it hit a big rock at the bottom, bent the rim, I fixed it good enough to ride but it got the shakes. I've put well over 1000 miles on it since with no problem other than having to keep pressure forward or backward on it. Edit: watched your video, mine shakes similarly, but not nearly as violent.
  14. Yeah, something like that. But besides it being hard to live with in a day to day with the wheel, it's also not optimized for our riding pose. It's designed and cut to fit well in a hunched over, bent arm, bent knee pose. It's not comfortable standing up in at all. I know there are places that do custom track suit. Maybe custom making one that fits a euc riding position is possible.
  15. This thread makes me sad for everyone and I cant help but keep watching. Its like a horrible accident and you cant look away. It would be much more fun if we weren't talking about a two THOUSAND dollar wheel, rather a prototype kit that was still in R&D phase. The s18 was no where near ready for release and i do feel for you guys who still own them. Best of luck is all I can say. I wonder what kind of pita it has become for KS and all their distributors? To think that I was concerned about brand of shock. Similar to worrying about a hair out of place while your jacket is on fire....
  16. Well, got a Lightining+ from Jason at e-wheels. Wow, this thing is a beast. I rode it around a bit and am pretty surprised at how difficult it is to ride. I just assumed it would be second nature from start. I now have my doubts the wife will wind up riding this either. Seems like a nice scoot, but i still prefer my Eucs by quite a margin.
  17. this thread is so much fun. Reading how everyone is fixing and taking apart their wheel is pretty cool. If i wasn't looking for just a reliable commuting EUC, this would be a fun hobby wheel to have. Guess i'll just wait until it get's cheaper and i find more time.
  18. If you don't fall off and don't want to fall off: you're doing it right when you don't. If you drag knees in high speed turns, buy knee sliders and speed up.
  19. Weird. I tried it on someone's 18xl and it didn't happen. Tried it earlier with my foot as close to the body as possible but still getting the noise... Disappointing!
  20. Hey @Gustesta, forgot to tag you in my last post so I'm not sure if you saw it. I'm also open to talking over the phone if you would prefer that. (If so, please DM me your contact info -- I may not be able to send DMs but I can receive them, which is how I completed an earlier sale lol) Thanks!
  21. Sorry Marty. Figured I'd join the party and hijack your thread too. Here's a vid i made for those that are fighting a tire bobble that you arent sure if its rim or tire related.
  22. I said a prayer and gave it one more try. I was actually able to get it to roll true!!! For those with the same issue, don’t give up. I fully deflated the tire and tried to clear any debris. I then put a little bit of air in and tried adjusting. I pushed and pulled as I rolled the tire and tried to get it as true as possible. The tire hits the case and doesn’t roll well when deflated. I then put a little bit more air and repeated the process. When it was rolling true I filled it up all the way. Really happy it worked out. Wasn’t excited about changing the tire or inner tube so soon.
  23. Thx RT - I had some gx16s so I cut the KS charger cable and put a gx16 on the end of the charger side. I also put gx16 on the cut side of the lenovo end. Then made another line with gx16 on one end and gx12 on the other ( for the v8 ). All tested - wrks aok! gx12 is pretty small pins and not ez to solder to with anything but flimsy wire. Much prefer the gx16s. I did all the cables etc with pin 1- 2+ then i went to connect - oops ! frgt that when gx facing each other its mirror image - 3&4 go with 1&2. I shoulda laid them out to see that 1st! I cld disassemble ez enough and resolder the charger end to 3&4. Too bad there are so many damn connectors - gx16 is a very good one and sadly it is not used by all! @NuRxG xt60 is great - if I had some I would hv used...
  24. Before the up-hill. 35km/h max I set. Ampere doesn't go higher than 20A according to the records. yes , 'pedal decline' means 'tillback'. I didn't touch any settings relating to tillback anyway. I sometimes drove V10 in a very very strong wind. I know what you mean. But it had never given me such an accident before. Sorry for the late reply since 5 posts limit a day.
  25. There is a very big difference between "wheels I'd like to own" and "wheels I'm considering for my first wheel that I will learn on". The Sherman and Monster are in the first group, but have never been considered for the second group. In my first post I listed 3 EUCs I like, but only the MTen3 was being considered for my first wheel to start on. I've also considered the MCM5 and the Tesla V2 and briefly a while ago I thought about the Nikola, but it is too expensive and probably not the best to learn on. I do actually have the money in the bank to buy a Monster Pro with 3.5kWh battery, I just don't want to spend that much and no way would I want to start out with such a beast. The Monster Pro might be the most stable wheel you could buy, but it might also be the least responsive wheel you could buy. I might consider a Veteran Sheman for a 2nd wheel if I found myself really wanting more range, but I'd want to gain a lot of experience before making a purchase like that. My idea is to buy a wheel, learn to ride that wheel, ride that wheel, become confident and skilled riding that wheel, keep riding that wheel and gaining experience . . . then after that (and only after that) consider buying a 2nd wheel. It could end up being more than a year after buying my first wheel that I actually buy a 2nd wheel, but that's fine. After reading and considering the replies on this thread I'm very close to ordering a Tesla V2 with 1480Wh battery. I think the range would be reasonable enough for a while and I can't really get any more range than that anyway, unless I buy a much heavier wheel, but that would be a worse thing to learn on. I think the performance would be plenty for a while and I could be happy enough to keep on using a wheel like that until I've had plenty of time to improve my skills and confidence.
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