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  2. steve454

    ACCIDENTs, CRASHs, Cutouts and Overleans.

    Find someone to do it for you, like a computer savvy person at the library? Or rec center or senior center? I have the same problem, bought a video editor that will make the video for me by putting a bunch of jump cuts into it, but I want to manually edit and haven't been able to figure it out yet.
  3. mrelwood

    THE VIDEO THREAD!

    Really? You might want to watch the video in the post you quoted... Slope degrees are a lot smaller than they appear.
  4. meepmeepmayer

    EUC Live Stream Event on June 24th

    Thought I had missed it, but it starts RIGHT NOW.
  5. meepmeepmayer

    18l presale specs

    Good reply. It's 1000Wh vs 1300/1600Wh on the X, that's about it.
  6. mrelwood

    18l presale specs

    Expectations... If you have read on the journey from Z10 introduction to today, you know what a rollercoaster it can be. I'm certain the 18L is a world class wheel. Try to disregard single forum posts, unless they have really gone to depths examining and explaining the issue. 1000Wh is 1000Wh, the actual wheel affects the range fairly little. An easy going 60kg rider with 4 bars in the tire will get 80km out of it, a heavy-weight speeder with 2.2 bars will be done at 25km. I've only seen one post mentioning power. I wouldn't worry!
  7. Jpd

    AVOID THE V10 FIRMWARE V2.26

    Did you rest the wheel on its stand and then try to apply? I had this problem before and that’s how I got it to work.
  8. esaj

    ACCIDENTs, CRASHs, Cutouts and Overleans.

    On any decent wheel, the power button should do nothing once the motor is running past a couple of kmh/mph. You'd need a switch installed between the battery and the mainboard that can handle high currents (tens of amps) to cut power at will. That will be large and probably not meant to be handheld. The actual power button just gives a signal to the mainboard, and the logics there decide whether to react to the button push (ie. "you are moving, I'm not going to turn off"). Just ride faster than the machine can take, ie. above the the point where the motor back-EMF is higher than the battery voltage (minus losses in the drive train). Basically this means to keep leaning after tilt-back (once the tilt back is set to maximum speed). Also, that might kill your mainboard at some point. Have painkillers and EMT's ready. For that, you'd need an actual kill switch. Usually the cut outs happen at fast speeds (especially with Gotways) on tarmac / asphalt surface. You need to (or at least definitely should) wear very heavy protection. Check EUC Extreme's gear for an example: Even he broke a collar bone with that gear when crashing with a tree....
  9. scap

    New Inmotion V10 (V8 Fast)

    Really, I didn't have that experience at all and I was riding the beep for a while.
  10. The Wizard

    ACCIDENTs, CRASHs, Cutouts and Overleans.

    How can a non-computer person put multiple photos and Especially VIDEOs on this forum? No fancy wancy stuff... explain it to a 10 year old, please! I have 26 photos and one 3:17 video to start with. But with more important Video's to come. Thank you.
  11. This Mod will allow you access to get into the wheel without having to remove pads completely thereby ruining their stickiness. I used a .45 caliber casing to hammer perfect little holes into the pads where the access screws are. Seeing the screws is a slight cosmetic change but one that doesn't bother me one bit. This is a Kingsong KS18S and I've had the same issue with other KS wheels. I know KS covers their screws with the pads. I can't speak to other manufacturers. IMHO the pads should be manufactured with holes in them or the mod done the first time the pad is installed. We WILL have to get into the wheel at some point for one reason or another. Cheers!
  12. Jpd

    THE VIDEO THREAD!

    I also updated the firmware last night, with no problems. Today I went out for some extreme trail ridding, most extreme to date. I will say that the wheel performed amazing! I took several hills that had to be around 40 degrees and varied from around 50 to 100’ long. The wheel was going much faster up the hills with less effort on my part. I did not go any faster than 19mph, I took @eddiemoys advice to avoid being thrown off . So far, at least for trail riding the update has made the wheel better, imo.
  13. Gustesta

    Inmotion L8F review

    Yes, it's an outstanding scooter with excellent build quality. I'm buying a speedway 4 which is stronger. I'm planning on selling the L8F for 500. I wonder if I can use the classifieds regular section.
  14. The Wizard

    ACCIDENTs, CRASHs, Cutouts and Overleans.

    Ok. Things have advanced today with Prototype #2. Riding, adjusting, more riding. I am now directly asking for your (the readers) help. How can I place or activate a device or timer to hit the OFF button at speed? Thus causing a CutOut. I need to be in the natural stand position so I can't just bend over and push the button. Just running into a concrete or wood barrier does not duplicate a CutOut. This CutOut disaster is no joke. It is important enough to test and document in real time and in real world conditions. This could save lives. I will be the ginnie pig. I will throw myself out there for all to see. I will video tape the whole thing. My Skid works and I'll put my money where my mouth is. It may take 10 revisions to my Prototype CutOut Skid but I'm doin it. My Skid prevents CutOut FacePlants and I can prove it. #1. How can I kill the motor at high or full speed? I will start slower and then work myself up. #2. How can I design a landing area that won't kill me from the test falls? How do i fall? What do I fall on? Of course, I will have typical full pads and regular bike helmet on. But not Robocop armor. Off into grass? Thick mud? Sand? Lay out 6 mattresses? Water landing? Overhead Zip Line and tether? How can I test my CutOut Skid? More or less safely. My CutOut Skid works.
  15. mrelwood

    ACCIDENTs, CRASHs, Cutouts and Overleans.

    Define the exact issue we want to tackle. Faceplants from a technical malfunction, crashes from overleans, or sudden obstacles, etc? Analyze the problem. What are the main causes for the issue to happen? Inspect wether the issue has already been improved on current wheels. If not, what could/should manufacturers do to make it so? Define the goal. What needs to change, and how much? Limit the parameters for the possible solution. How much can it cost? Should the modification be installable by the end user? Then we'd have a decent baseline for developing ideas into fruition, as the canvas is a whole lot clearer. I think the greatest issues today are lack of protective equipment, and irresponsible and/or uneducated riders. I do my best to educate these riders without preaching, as not to link protection or sensible riding with the crazy overprotective wimp.
  16. esaj

    Kingsong 16s review

    Good overview... I 've been meaning to write a review comparing Firewheel F260 vs. KS16B vs. KS16S, for like for a year, but haven't gotten around to it Btw, the range is really dependent on rider weight and environmental circumstances... I can take the 840Wh KS16S up to above 50 kilometers (about 30 miles) per charge (probably could do 60km / 37 miles if riding more slowly), but I'm lightweight, and strong headwind can cut the range in half. Some screenshots I captured while testing the KS16B / 680Wh battery for giving information for buyers (I'm currently selling it, the current buyer just hasn't wired the money yet, and I haven't shipped the wheel ) after 34.5km trip in good conditions (about 25C / 77F, not much wind, 27kmh / 17mph average speed):
  17. meepmeepmayer

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    For clarification, EUCs (self-balancing vehicles) work like this: they try to counteract any forwards/backwards tilt by going faster and faster into the tilting direction until the wheel is level again. That's it. If you tilt it, it goes faster and faster until it can't any longer, then it rotates into the driving direction (there's a tilt forward from the rider leaning, and the wheel can't reduce the tilt, so it eventually rotates instead) and the rider is naturally thrown off. So you're either always balanced by the wheel, or you fall off it. If you don't fall off it, it means you just don't tilt it, so it doesn't go faster. So please answer the question, if you go 3mph and lean more, do you fall off, or not? No shame in getting confused as a new rider. Hoping for you it really is just a crazy misunderstanding and no hardware problem. Either way, the tip with meeting other NYC riders is good, it's much easier to learn by just riding along holding to another rider, than doing it alone, so they can help you greatly.
  18. Kevin DiBetta

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    I have completed that exercise already. I can not get the thing to go fast enough to keep me upright. I can ride it down a hill and remain upright (Free from holding on to anything.) But after that 3mph (on a downhill) it just feels like the wheel is spinning without assistance from the motor. To ensure that the problem was not with me and my ability to lean properly. I have tried calibrating with the pedals having slight back-slant I have completed this exercise while in each of the three Modes Sport, Moderate, Leisure This should mean that I am forced to lean forward, thus making it easier for the wheel to get away from me. I am a skier. But, It could be me.
  19. Your wife is beautiful, and she shows an interest in the wheel... does she have any like minded single friends? Sisters?
  20. meepmeepmayer

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    If you lift the wheel with your hands and tilt it slightly forwards, the following should happen: it spins up rapidly, buckles a little (that's the tiltback finding no effect) and then switch off. Emergency warning beeps during that. That's one objective test you can do (lift test). (Just to be clear, tiltback means the wheel leans backwards, meaning the pedals lean backwards, this is meant to get you to slow down) It really sounds like maybe you're doing something wrong. It is impossible for a wheel to just not go above some speed while you tilt it in the driving direction. Either you stopped tilting it, or it doesn't have enough power to balance you and rotate forward and you fall forwards/have to run off. One of these two things has to happen. Which one is it?
  21. esaj

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    @Kevin DiBetta: You could try asking in the NYC riding group: I'm sure someone there would be happy to try your wheel to see that it works, and give you tips on learning.
  22. Marty Backe

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    I've been at this game for awhile now and I can't recall ever hearing of a failure mode like this in the motor. There's always a first though. Please have some kind of protection on for this objective test. Are you actually able to ride the wheel or are you holding onto a fence during all of this "wheel won't go faster" attempts? If you are holding onto a wall, etc., then that explains the "won't go faster" description. Once you free yourself from the wall you will very quickly discover that the wheel can go very fast. Let us know what happens when you ride it away from any supports. Good luck
  23. esaj

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    I'm also suspecting this is down to a new rider rather than the wheel, but of course it's impossible to say for sure without being able to test the wheel. Are you leaning forwards, basically your "center of gravity" must be in front of the motor axle to cause the pedals to tilt forwards, the wheel will detect this (pretty much immediately, if it's on "hard"-mode, you won't even notice the pedals tilting)? Some people have a problem with "trusting" the wheel at start, and while they partially lean forwards, they still keep the pedals level and the wheel won't accelerate. Try to hold on to a railing and push the pedals down with weight on your toes / front of your feet (what's it called in English, ball of your feets?), the wheel should move forwards... well, ok, getting any higher speed might be difficult if you don't move with the wheel... Got anyone more experienced around you who could try the wheel? That would be an easy way to check whether it works as it should Without having someone who's got experience with the wheels or something like a dynamometer (which costs a ton), I can't think of anything really... No, the wheel wouldn't work at all if only one or two phases were firing, if it can rotate the motor, all the phases are working.
  24. Kevin DiBetta

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    When I lift the wheel it appears to spin normally. I try to go up a small incline it will stop moving forward. With my hand on a fence or a rail, it will not go. I hear what you are saying about what is probably my novice skill set. However, It should be relatively easy for me to have this Wheel get out of control on me, rather than complaining about it being weak. Is there a way to objectively test this thing? A Theory floated by a friend of mine. I don't know what type of motor is in the wheel. But I read somewhere that it was a 3phase DC motor. If that is true. Could the motor, for some reason be operating on 1phase? That might make it appear to work in a no-load condition, and fail under load. Thoughts? Thanks,
  25. Today
  26. Marty Backe

    Please Help - Troubleshoot My new Tesla

    Something doesn't sound right. Wheels don't just stop going faster. It's actually impossible. Either the pedals will tilt-back, forcing you off the wheel, or the wheel will cutout and you fall on your face. I'm almost thinking that it's you (this is OK, you're learning). Maybe you just haven't yet learned the dynamics of riding a wheel.
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