WARPed1701D

Hello to anyone who may remember me from a few years ago! I hope you are all well and still riding safely. I'm selling my Charge Doctor V2 now that my V8 has found a new home. You can find it listed on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/185597433360 The actual CD device was fully working last time it was used and is in excellent condition, however one of the optional adapter cables it came with to convert to the 3-pin InMotion charger connector appears to have a weak solder joint that requires attention (flexing the cable can break the connection). If you don't need the 3 pin adapters then it is good to go as is. Also includes the USB data logger attachment. No instructions. Hobby16's now abandoned website (http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/02/06/charge-doctor-v2-10a-3/) contains much of the operation informational text but the accompanying images appear to have gone making it a bit more cryptic. I'm sure other owners on here can assist in working out how to set the charge levels. Safe riding!

Did you calibrate it properly as shown in this blog post? It should be sitting on its rear bumper. https://www.myinmotion.com/blogs/news/v10-firmware-update-2-2-7 I imagine a bad calibration may make it think it is tipped over and so won't activate the motor.

@palachzzz Nice work on the new update. I wanted to provide feedback on the voltage output. It seems very accurate so far. After several full drain/charge cycles that I monitored using a Charge Doctor and PC I calculated and then set my CD to charge to 85% of cell capacity (this is 85% of the full 480Wh capacity and so includes the 60Wh of capacity we cannot use as it is below minimum InMotion shutdown voltage). Usually this results in a reading of 100% in Wheelog/Inmotion apps post charge as the cells were abovew 82.5V (InMotion 100% value). After applying the Wheellog update I noticed that this morning's reading after charge (and a 30 minute rest period) was 88%. This is much more in line with my calculated cutoff amount and therefore much more accurate. The extra few percent shown in wheellog can be directly attributed to the fact that I'm sure you rightfully ignore the unusable capacity that I accounted for. Also, probably related to the adaptive sample speed, my phone (OnePlus 5T) was quite hot when I got to work this morning (Wheellog generally doesn't heat my phone up). I'm guessing WheelLog is working it harder. I didn't notice significant battery drain but where there is heat there is power draw. Maybe the adaptive sample rate should be an option so that people on long rides do not end up with a depleated battery in the phones. Great work!

I think Stan is getting a bit confused between comments. The OP doesn't have a charge doctor it sounds like he just has a wall timer so his wheel isn't on the charger all night. This need not be to do with anything as complicated as charge limiting (especially as he is trying to get to 100% charge). It sounds like the guy just doesn't want his wheel on charge unnecessarily which is wise move given the recent video of an exploding Scooter battery. @Proflee This is very likely a charger problem. Not fixing it will not be a big deal to start with but may cause problems over time as the battery charging circuit will not enter balancing mode which ensures weaker batteries in the pack get an additional boost to bring them up to the same charge levels as stronger cells. By not balancing the weaker cells will just get weaker until they cause the pack to shutdown prematurely. This could happen unexpectedly while riding so there is some concern there and really you will need to address it at some point for your own safety. If the wheel is less than a year old try to contact the last owner to find out where he/she brought it from and ask the reseller to get you a new charger under warranty. If that is not an option then you can buy one from a reseller yourself and hope that it is indeed the culprit. If you want to confirm the charger is the issue before spending your money then you will need a voltmeter that goes up to 84v DC. Simple ones can be purchased quite cheaply and measuring the voltage is simple if you wish to do so.

This is likely a faulty charger. Inmotion chargers have been dropping like flies lately. To confirm the fault you will need a multimeter to measure the output voltage at the charger output plug. It should read in excess of 84v (mine is 84.7V according to my Charge Doctor) across two of the pins. Yours will likely read less if the charger is at fault. If this is the case you will need a new charger.

I think this is great for all round cranial protection while cycling but for EUCing I am not convinced it will offer such great protection in a face plant as a solid helmet would. The way you fall is radically different and I think that soft shell would push backwards allowing your face and nose to impact the ground. Better than nothing, yes, but maybe not the best for our use.

You need to be careful with Wheellog's naming conventions as they aren't consistent. For the V8: The InMotion app reports "Mainboard Temperature". In the live Wheellog screen this is reported as "System Temp" but in the Wheellog CSV it is recorded under the "Battery Temp" column (all data locations showed the same numeric value). Looking at my ride to work this morning in 30C ambient temperature (having left a 24C house) this value remains very constant only slowly creeping up from 25 to 40 degrees over my 20 minute ride with no erratic changes. For the mystery value the Inmotion app has nothing. The real-time screen in Wheellog shows it as "CPU(?) Temp" but the CSV records this value as "System Temp". Note the inconsistency seen in the naming of the two temperatures (CPU, System, and Battery is used and System can refer to either value depending on the way you read the data (live or CSV) so caution is needed when reading the values). Looking at my ride in this morning (detailed above), this temperature started out at 30C and peaked at 47C towards the end. This temperature change, while showing a trend of increasing, was more erratic and jumped up and down by up to 5C between readings less than a quarter of a second apart at times. I don't see a correlating surge of power to account for the heat increase which is odd and would be expected if this were heatsink/MOSFET temperature. It should be considered that given that there is a large amount of communication between the InMotion BMS and the mainboard this could indeed be a battery temperature (as suggested by a wheellog column title) but I cannot understand why the temperature would fluctuate so much if that were the case. I imagine these cells would retain heat and take more than a 1/4 second to gain multiple degrees given my load was quite low (500W general consumption). Perhaps @palachzzz can chime in on the data sources and might want to fix the naming inconsistency between the live view and the CSV.

Search the video thread for the recently posted video of a scooter bursting into flames. If you want a front row seat of a similar event then go ahead and buy practically the same charger. Or heed the advice here and do not deviate from specification.

I may have missed this but has anyone used Wheellog with the v10 yet (I understand it is now compatible)? Does it capture the heatsink temperature? I know it reports two temperatures from the V8. One aligns with the Inmotion app...the other is a bit of a mystery.

I would contact Inmotion again. Let them know the deal. The last thing you want is one of these falling off because of a bad fit.

I would contact Inmotion to ask them about this. It seems odd. Are they all impacting the cover? Note on my V8 one of the connectors is at an angle. Maybe due to clearance problems? Are yours all upright?

The best option here is a per wheel setting to correct wheel rotational distance. Set the correction amount and it is applied to the reported wheel value to get the displayed value for distance and speed. As already mentioned having the app do it on the fly would just result in inaccuracy from carving, bends etc during normal riding. It would be best to ride a known distance (100m running track) in a straight line, observe the reported wheel distance, and calculate the correction value.

You need to download the Pebble app. Then you should read this :

I think the idea here is to provide a cheaper option to expand a owners existing wheel capability without the need for, or expense of, a whole new unit. $500 to upgrade is much cheaper than $1000 or more for a new V8+. Sure, offer an upgraded package but the battery only option (especially if offered with a pedal bundle) would be desirable for those of us with more limited budgets.