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Where to find a slotted socket for axle nuts?


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I have another loose axle nut and need to acquire a slotted socket to tighten it up. I've done some searching and saw a few images of pre-made slotted sockets that would work, but unfortunately no links to buy these. I was wondering if anyone had a source for these, or were selling them.

I found this oxygen sensor socket, anyone know if this will work? http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Toledo-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-21mm-3-8-inch-square-drive-301094/SPO1351728

I also found this slotted socket set, but unfortunately no 21mm: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trident-T324600-Slotted-Socket-Set/dp/B0105UWGEW

 

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8 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

An angle grinder or die grinder works perfect. Here is the one I made for Marty. 

26496784708_c62f0f5421_b.jpg

 

Which I used again during my recent Monster rebuild. Thanks again :cheers:

I can say that slot does not appear to affect its strength.

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13 hours ago, Kevin Grandon said:

I have another loose axle nut and need to acquire a slotted socket to tighten it up. I've done some searching and saw a few images of pre-made slotted sockets that would work, but unfortunately no links to buy these. I was wondering if anyone had a source for these, or were selling them.

I found this oxygen sensor socket, anyone know if this will work? http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Toledo-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-21mm-3-8-inch-square-drive-301094/SPO1351728

I also found this slotted socket set, but unfortunately no 21mm: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trident-T324600-Slotted-Socket-Set/dp/B0105UWGEW

 

I'm sure that you're aware of this, but tightening the nuts without first removing them and repositioning the shims might not be too effective. And be careful not to over-tighten the nuts. I think I make have snapped the axle on my ACM due to over-tightening.

I mention this because to remove the nuts and shims you have to disconnect the motor/hall-sensor wires, so in that case you can use a simple 21mm wrench.

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On ‎20‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 9:49 PM, Marty Backe said:

I'm sure that you're aware of this, but tightening the nuts without first removing them and repositioning the shims might not be too effective. And be careful not to over-tighten the nuts. I think I make have snapped the axle on my ACM due to over-tightening.

I don't suppose anyone knows the magic number to which wheel nuts should be torqued? 

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1 hour ago, The Fat Unicyclist said:

I don't suppose anyone knows the magic number to which wheel nuts should be torqued? 

Wish I knew. I go with firmly-tight and then stop.

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1 hour ago, The Fat Unicyclist said:

I don't suppose anyone knows the magic number to which wheel nuts should be torqued? 

 

12 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Wish I knew. I go with firmly-tight and then stop.

@Jason McNeil - is this something that Gotway / King Song might be willing to share? Assuming they have a torque setting, of course.

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I've heard that 45lbs of torque or so is the right amount,but even at that they seem to loosen frequently.

I think when I repair this next one I'm going to use a combination of loctite and flywheel keys to prevent this from ever unintentionally loosening again.

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11 minutes ago, Kevin Grandon said:

I've heard that 45lbs of torque or so is the right amount,but even at that they seem to loosen frequently.

I think when I repair this next one I'm going to use a combination of loctite and flywheel keys to prevent this from ever unintentionally loosening again.

On my last two (ACM and Monster) I used Loctite. Too early to know if it helps. Let us know how you use flywheel keys if you do.

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56 minutes ago, Kevin Grandon said:

I've heard that 45lbs of torque or so is the right amount,but even at that they seem to loosen frequently.

I think when I repair this next one I'm going to use a combination of loctite and flywheel keys to prevent this from ever unintentionally loosening again.

I've watched @Marty Backe s video on tightening his axle nuts.  I would say he was putting way more than 100lb/ft into it.  He also showed in another video, that despite there being a wobble, the nuts were tight when he went to remove them. I surmise from this that two things are going on here:

1: friction between the shims and the pedal hangers and axle, is severe enough to prevent the shims from actually tightening adequately, before the axle nut requires superhuman strength to move it any more.  As well as not getting a tight axle, one also gets a dangerously over torqued nut/thread interface.  As someone who has sheared or stripped more than his fair share of bolts, I am familiar with this problem.

2. The further loosening of the axle/hanger interface, despite tight nuts, might be due to metal deformation in the wedge/hanger, wedge/axle interfaces.  The shims are steel (probably mild steel)  the axle is steel (probably grade 8 Hi-tensile) and the hangers are aluminum.  as Aluminum is the softest I would expect it to be the first to deform.  But the contact point with the axle is small and the force here is applied via a twisting of the axle, so maybe forces in this area are concentrated in the corners of the shim cutout.

If I had access to a Gotway I'd look very carefully at these interfaces for deformation.  I would place a straight edge across all mating surfaces to see if they are perfectly flat.  I'd examine the cut out that interfaces with the axle to see if it was deformed from axle twisting, I'd also find some way to persuade the shims to tighten into place in addition to tightening the nut.  Possible by banging a nail or something similar into a gap, from the side, to wedge the shims in tight, and then cinch up the nuts.  Rinse and repeat.

Then again, what do I know?

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, trya said:

It shows the wrench for $3.99. Isn't it working for you?

it's working fine.  I was reminding people where they can find an axle nut tightener, seeing as the question came up again.  Now, if you can find a new King Song axle for $3.99, or even $39.99 that would be great.

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