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1 minute ago, KingSong69 said:

i guess it was just a NYC buyer...the seller wasnt mentioned as coming from NY...

Would be not the first time some chinese ebay seller messed something up when disconnectiing the battery before sending it over.

deo you have to connect the battery when you recieve it?

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On 12/3/2017 at 11:09 PM, KingSong69 said:

That principle works on all wheels were the shell is not closing in the tire completly... i guess on mcm4 i does not work, because the shell goes down around the tire to much.....but on Msuper, ACM, Tesla, KS14,16,18...no problem...goes like this:

Unscrew sideplates...disconnect motor and sensor wires...unscrew pedal arms...pull out the wheel...

 

i think i might have a problem perfoming this inner tube replacement when i get a euc...

 

take out screws... take out more screws... take off shell...  MAGICALLY TELEPORT INNER TUBE OUT OF TIRE 

 

what do euc owner practice spiritual teleportation techniques???? i woulndt be suprised 

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3 minutes ago, Shad0z said:

deo you have to connect the battery when you recieve it?

Only to the US sometimes the wheels have to be sent seperate from the wheels! Not in europe or russia.

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1 minute ago, KingSong69 said:

Only to the US sometimes the wheels have to be sent seperate from the wheels! Not in europe or russia.

ok weird sounds complicated '

finally got a wheel!

now i just wait for THE WHEEl

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Just now, Smoother said:

You have to buy the Magical Teleport tool, first :P

ok teach me! i need to learn this! so i can teleport my mouse instead of using it (extra good netflix time)

where do buy?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last Tesla problem update .

It has been. a long journey . I ordered the Tesla in the last week of september  and now ( 17/12-2017) i finally have a working wheel !

The seller sent me a new motor.  I replaced the bad motor and now all is in working order .

This was my first time taking a wheel apart and it is to quote mr Duff "a nightmare" .Gotway engineers are sadists or maybe it is alien technology from the Roswell crash.

Nothing makes any sense ..... screws hidden avay , all screws not on the same side ,screws made of non magnetic aluminim that breaks easily and are difficult to fish out of the holes ,screws fastened in small plastic peggs that easilly breaks of (i broke two so no scews can be put there ) .During the process you have to flip the wheel (stufff falls out) .

Very little clearense betweeen tyre and shell. Silicone on the controlboard, i hope the tyre lasts for a long time because i dont want to take it all apart for a wile.

I took it apart 3 times . After changeing the motor i had a unpleasant incident .. everything seemed to work so i desided. to stand on it....big mistake! The wheel made a grovling sound and shook violently , it threw me off and flipped around at my feet before it finaly turned off .pweu! that was close . After the incident i was a bit uppset so i decided to watch some films instead (Atomic blonde and Valerian )  When i calmed down i started to think , why did the weel shake? had i done something wrong? Took it apart again and checked all conections .Everything looked. fine ....maybe i had damaged the hallsensor wires when i scraped of the silicone ? So i disconected the. hallsensor wires from the board ,inspected them and put it back . Nothng wrong here...  Started the wheel up again and .....it worked . Wery scared i slowly stepped on ... no growling ,no shakeing  .

I now understand what happened and why Gotway puts. Silicone on the controlboard .When ii attached the hallsesor wires to the board the first time i didnt push it down in the socket properly, they wherent conected to the board . It only looked that way and thats why Gotway puts silicone on the board ,to prevent wires and components to diconect during violent movement. I reluctlantly bought some sillicone and glued the hallsensor wires.

Made a test ride for one hour and it worked out fine  So i guess its going. to be a merry christmas after all !! . MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL RIDERS !!

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_20171217_092826.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Unimike said:

Last Tesla problem update .

It has been. a long journey . I ordered the Tesla in the last week of september  and now ( 17/12-2017) i finally have a working wheel !

The seller sent me a new motor.  I replaced the bad motor and now all is in working order .

This was my first time taking a wheel apart and it is to quote mr Duff "a nightmare" .Gotway engineers are sadists or maybe it is alien technology from the Roswell crash.

Nothing makes any sense ..... screws hidden avay , all screws not on the same side ,screws made of non magnetic aluminim that breaks easily and are difficult to fish out of the holes ,screws fastened in small plastic peggs that easilly breaks of (i broke two so no scews can be put there ) .During the process you have to flip the wheel (stufff falls out) .

Very little clearense betweeen tyre and shell. Silicone on the controlboard, i hope the tyre lasts for a long time because i dont want to take it all apart for a wile.

I took it apart 3 times . After changeing the motor i had a unpleasant incident .. everything seemed to work so i desided. to stand on it....big mistake! The wheel made a grovling sound and shook violently , it threw me off and flipped around at my feet before it finaly turned off .pweu! that was close . After the incident i was a bit uppset so i decided to watch some films instead (Atomic blonde and Valerian )  When i calmed down i started to think , why did the weel shake? had i done something wrong? Took it apart again and checked all conections .Everything looked. fine ....maybe i had damaged the hallsensor wires when i scraped of the silicone ? So i disconected the. hallsensor wires from the board ,inspected them and put it back . Nothng wrong here...  Started the wheel up again and .....it worked . Wery scared i slowly stepped on ... no growling ,no shakeing  .

I now understand what happened and why Gotway puts. Silicone on the controlboard .When ii attached the hallsesor wires to the board the first time i didnt push it down in the socket properly, they wherent conected to the board . It only looked that way and thats why Gotway puts silicone on the board ,to prevent wires and components to diconect during violent movement. I reluctlantly bought some sillicone and glued the hallsensor wires.

Made a test ride for one hour and it worked out fine  So i guess its going. to be a merry christmas after all !! . MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL RIDERS !!

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_20171217_092826.jpg

Hey, that's a great follow-up report. Thanks for letting us know what finally happened.

I agree with everything that you said (screws, silicon, etc., etc., etc.) Regarding the changing of a tire, generally that's easier since you only have to fully remove half the shell and don't need to disconnect any of the cables.

Well, at least now you are fully familiar with your wheel and there are no mysteries. You've done a full rebuild. At least for me that gives you a certain level of confidence that you can fix anything that happens to it.

I'm glad that you have a fully working Tesla for the Christmas season. I hope you really get to enjoy it now. Have a Merry Christmas :cheers:

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

Nothing makes any sense ..... screws hidden avay , all screws not on the same side ,screws made of non magnetic aluminim that breaks easily and are difficult to fish out of the holes ,screws fastened in small plastic peggs that easilly breaks of (i broke two so no scews can be put there ) .During the process you have to flip the wheel (stufff falls out) .

Just to show I have no favourite brands, what you said pretty much describes taking apart a Ks14 as well. Except no aluminium screws, as far as I know 

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  • 2 weeks later...

New motor arrived. Worked on it for 8 hours today which includes the time to go shopping for parts and two tire changes because the first one broke the inner tire. It works now. I have no idea how to feel right now, insanely tired and my hands feel like death.

First impressions from my ~2 km ride home:
- feels very smooth, amazing machine
- how am I meant to get it over high doorsteps if picking it up causes it to go full throttle?
- my Ninebot One S2 rumbles when idle, but the Tesla does it much louder, either something is wrong or more power = louder rumbling
- pedals feel slightly tilted back, a calibration / setting should fix it
- felt like it didn't give me the power I expected, leaning forward past 20 km/h-ish seemed to have little effect on speed. I'll have to play with the modes, disable tiltback, that sort of thing
- I like the pads on the sides even though others complain it hurts their legs
- the light didn't seem to do anything unless it was pitch dark, but I guess every little bit of light helps

Even though my first impressions seem to be mostly (fixable) complaints, I couldn't be happier to finally have it working and I love it already.

Thank you all for the advice and support. :)

EDIT for posterity:
- pedals being tilted back was fixed by calibration
- disabling tiltback in the app gave me more power than I know what to do with

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19 minutes ago, Flow said:

New motor arrived. Worked on it for 8 hours today which includes the time to go shopping for parts and two tire changes because the first one broke the inner tire. It works now. I have no idea how to feel right now, insanely tired and my hands feel like death.

First impressions from my ~2 km ride home:
- feels very smooth, amazing machine
- how am I meant to get it over high doorsteps if picking it up causes it to go full throttle?
- my Ninebot One S2 rumbles when idle, but the Tesla does it much louder, either something is wrong or more power = louder rumbling
- pedals feel slightly tilted back, a calibration / setting should fix it
- felt like it didn't give me the power I expected, leaning forward past 20 km/h-ish seemed to have little effect on speed. I'll have to play with the modes, disable tiltback, that sort of thing
- I like the pads on the sides even though others complain it hurts their legs
- the light didn't seem to do anything unless it was pitch dark, but I guess every little bit of light helps

Even though my first impressions seem to be mostly (fixable) complaints, I couldn't be happier to finally have it working and I love it already.

Thank you all for the advice and support. :)

glad you got it working! ENJOY! be safe!

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2 hours ago, Flow said:

how am I meant to get it over high doorsteps if picking it up causes it to go full throttle?

Pick it up by the middle of the handle. If you hear the wheel accelerate, tip it the way you think is opposite that acceleration.  It's not difficult to get the motor  to be stationary or nearly stationary, long enough to lift it up/ down a step or three.  If you're having trouble, continually tip the wheel slightly backwards and forwards around the neutral center position; this will keep the speed from getting too great. Use your ears to figure out how fast it's spinning.  Reduce the size of the movement until the motor is almost stationary.  Don't put it down unless the speed is slower than slow, otherwise it is will jump severely and possibly shock the electronics, and possibly damage the door you're passing through, or yourself.

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On 12/30/2017 at 12:22 AM, Bryan Wells said:

- how am I meant to get it over high doorsteps if picking it up causes it to go full throttle?

To turn off the wheel is the easiest way.

On 12/30/2017 at 2:45 AM, Smoother said:

Pick it up by the middle of the handle. If you hear the wheel accelerate, tip it the way you think is opposite that acceleration.  It's not difficult to get the motor  to be stationary or nearly stationary, long enough to lift it up/ down a step or three.  If you're having trouble, continually tip the wheel slightly backwards and forwards around the neutral center position; this will keep the speed from getting too great.

I can't do this with most wheels even half-reliably. Not sure if it's me or the wheels I tried or the driving mode I chose or maybe all of it.

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1 hour ago, Mono said:

To turn off the wheel is the easiest way.

I can't do this with most wheels even half-reliably. Not sure if it's me or the wheels I tried or the driving mode I chose or maybe all of it.

That surprises me, you've usually got most techniques down.  You've taught me a few too, like looking, straight up, looking directly behind, and riding with eyes closed.  This one is easy by comparison.  Still, it's not necessary.  Power off, walk, walk, power on. Job done.

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8 hours ago, Mono said:

is IMHO a serious safety hazard

I turn off tilt-back on all of my wheels for safety. But I know we've had this discussion before, but I wanted to remind some people that tilt-back at high-speed can be a recipe for disaster.

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4 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

I turn off tilt-back on all of my wheels for safety.

I agree, especially when the fixed in stone, non-adjustable tilt back all but guarantees being thrown on your ass at high speed, on my ks14.  The only time I damaged my wrist on a EUC was when the wheel violently shot infront of me to execute tilt back.  It dumped me on my ass/ wrists, and shot a full 4m down the road.

it would be nice if tilt back was customisable like ride mode, soft, medium, hard. Off.  Or even on a sliding scale.  I'm responsible for myself, give me three levels of warning, and make it self resetting to "On" after power  off if you like, but give me the option to turn it off.

 

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I banged up both my wrists last night as I was leaving the business park as typically a row of traffic watching and I realised that the end of the path I was on had no down curb, so i tried to make the one on the left I was just passing, however I was too slow, bounced down the curb, caught the pedal on the curb itself which sent me flying much to the amusement of all the onlookers. Then to make it worse it was the windiest day i've ever been on a unicycle to the point of me getting off and thinking about walking it the rest of the way home, I didn't and persevered but my journey took nearly twice as long and I wasn't a happy bunny at the end of it :(

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welcome to the "what the flock just happened" club. We haven't printed up the certificates yet, but I'm sure @The Fat Unicyclist Is on it.

and as soon as he does, One will be winging its way to you via owl mail.

please say you were wearing wrist guards. But it sounds like you weren't. Oh dear!

EDIT. I've been off a curb diagonally once.  Other than scraping the underside of the pedal and a bit of a wobble, nothing happend.  Right angles only after that, unless at speed. But typically I don't jump up or down curbs, to much stress on the axle. 

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4 hours ago, Cannings said:

I banged up both my wrists last night as I was leaving the business park as typically a row of traffic watching and I realised that the end of the path I was on had no down curb, so i tried to make the one on the left I was just passing, however I was too slow, bounced down the curb, caught the pedal on the curb itself which sent me flying much to the amusement of all the onlookers. Then to make it worse it was the windiest day i've ever been on a unicycle to the point of me getting off and thinking about walking it the rest of the way home, I didn't and persevered but my journey took nearly twice as long and I wasn't a happy bunny at the end of it :(

Kind of like this?

 

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2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Kind of like this?

 

I was just about next to him when it happened and I think there was some loose sand before and after there and that’s probably what took him out.  Without the sand there, he probably would of been fine. 

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