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@Marty Backe from various pictures,  and discussions with @KS Poland   I'm pretty sure ks and gw use the same motor supplier ( I.e they don't make their own). I suppose the various teams of numpties, eh, I mean  engineers from the respective companies, specify their own design peculiarities  ( glass axles for ks, and wheel nuts that could be a category in the "World's Strongest Man competition, for gw)

 

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Here comes an update on my situation . It is with mixed feelings i watch Martys  Tesla videos zipping around L.A  when my brand new Tesla  lies ripped open like a murder victim redy for otopsy . After some back and fort , the seller is sending me a new motor . This means i have to take the shell apart  but how ? I cant find any holes for the screws . I guess they are hidden under some plastic , but i dont want to break brittlle plastic piececes off . The battery and control card is eay to get to , but the motor ?

If any body knows a good tear down video , i would be grateful .

Most parts i recognize  , but  where goes the sandwich ?

 

IMG_20171203_171111.jpg

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45 minutes ago, Unimike said:

Here comes an update on my situation . It is with mixed feelings i watch Martys  Tesla videos zipping around L.A  when my brand new Tesla  lies ripped open like a murder victim redy for otopsy . After some back and fort , the seller is sending me a new motor . This means i have to take the shell apart  but how ? I cant find any holes for the screws . I guess they are hidden under some plastic , but i dont want to break brittlle plastic piececes off . The battery and control card is eay to get to , but the motor ?

If any body knows a good tear down video , i would be grateful .

Most parts i recognize  , but  where goes the sandwich ?

 

IMG_20171203_171111.jpg

click on the blue October 2:w00t2:

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55 minutes ago, Unimike said:

Here comes an update on my situation . It is with mixed feelings i watch Martys  Tesla videos zipping around L.A  when my brand new Tesla  lies ripped open like a murder victim redy for otopsy . After some back and fort , the seller is sending me a new motor . This means i have to take the shell apart  but how ? I cant find any holes for the screws . I guess they are hidden under some plastic , but i dont want to break brittlle plastic piececes off . The battery and control card is eay to get to , but the motor ?

If any body knows a good tear down video , i would be grateful .

Most parts i recognize  , but  where goes the sandwich ?

 

IMG_20171203_171111.jpg

So sorry that you are having to go through this.

I suspect that the Tesla comes apart just like the Mten3. The plastic piece that covers the top of the wheel has to come off. You can see that it's two pieces that join at the top.

Like the Mten3, they snap on to the wheel. You have to start bend/twist/pry the cover off the shell starting at the wheel end and then work your way up to the handle. Repeat on each side, and at the top of the handle the pieces simply overlap. This is very tough plastic - the kind that doesn't break.

Once you get those off you'll see all the screws that need to be removed.

What I don't know is if there are any screws under the LED Ring Light.

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26 minutes ago, steve454 said:

click on the blue October 2:w00t2:

Unfortunately that video conveniently skips over the process of removing the plastic pieces that cover the top of the wheel. Very funny that they left out the hard part.

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5 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Unfortunately that video conveniently skips over the process of removing the plastic pieces that cover the top of the wheel. Very funny that they left out the hard part.

I did not notice that, must be a trade secret.<_<  Thank goodness someone who knows Gotways caught that:thumbup:

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@Unimike

Actually to change the motor you dont have to take the complete shell apart!

Open both sides...unplug the motor wires and sensor cables on the board....and unscrew the 6 x 2 screws of the pedal arms on each side!

Then you can "drop" out the complete motor including pedals under the tesla shell!

 

This process is also used to change a tire...if you want a video of the process in general search for KS16 tire change on youtube!

No need to unscrew the complete shell!!!

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3 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

@Unimike

Actually to change the motor you dont have to take the complete shell apart!

Open both sides...unplug the motor wires and sensor cables on the board....and unscrew the 6 x 2 screws of the pedal arms on each side!

Then you can "drop" out the complete motor including pedals under the tesla shell!

 

This process is also used to change a tire...if you want a video of the process in general search for KS16 tire change on youtube!

No need to unscrew the complete shell!!!

Hey, that's good to know. Could you please film the process so that we can have a reference video :popcorn:

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10 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Hey, that's good to know. Could you please film the process so that we can have a reference video :popcorn:

That principle works on all wheels were the shell is not closing in the tire completly... i guess on mcm4 i does not work, because the shell goes down around the tire to much.....but on Msuper, ACM, Tesla, KS14,16,18...no problem...goes like this:

Unscrew sideplates...disconnect motor and sensor wires...unscrew pedal arms...pull out the wheel...

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Correction:

On ACM and Msuper it is more difficult...because the board is mounted to the pedal arm...but even then it is possible and easier then to unscrew the complete shell!

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28 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

That principle works on all wheels were the shell is not closing in the tire completly... i guess on mcm4 i does not work, because the shell goes down around the tire to much.....but on Msuper, ACM, Tesla, KS14,16,18...no problem...goes like this:

Unscrew sideplates...disconnect motor and sensor wires...unscrew pedal arms...pull out the wheel...

Nice video. Thanks for enlightening me. It never would have occurred to me that that this can be done.

For Gotway I would still rather remove the shells that have to disconnect the wires from the control board (silicon hell) and tear away the heat-shrink tubing from the motor connectors and reapply.

If you are willing to remove half of the shell you can replace a tire without having to disconnect any wiring.

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13 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Nice video. Thanks for enlightening me. It never would have occurred to me that that this can be done.

For Gotway I would still rather remove the shells that have to disconnect the wires from the control board (silicon hell) and tear away the heat-shrink tubing from the motor connectors and reapply.

If you are willing to remove half of the shell you can replace a tire without having to disconnect any wiring.

Yip, on GW's you have to cut loose the motor connectors from the silicon hell on board...but thats the worst on that procedure.

As you can see...even the maintenance is easier on KS ;-)

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11 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

That principle works on all wheels were the shell is not closing in the tire completly... i guess on mcm4 i does not work, because the shell goes down around the tire to much.....but on Msuper, ACM, Tesla, KS14,16,18...no problem...goes like this:

Unscrew sideplates...disconnect motor and sensor wires...unscrew pedal arms...pull out the wheel...

Excuse me while I gush over KingSong for a minute... OOOOOOH I want one! :wub: If only there were more UK dealers.

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On 12/3/2017 at 12:24 PM, KingSong69 said:

@Unimike

Actually to change the motor you dont have to take the complete shell apart!

Open both sides...unplug the motor wires and sensor cables on the board....and unscrew the 6 x 2 screws of the pedal arms on each side!

Then you can "drop" out the complete motor including pedals under the tesla shell!

 

This process is also used to change a tire...if you want a video of the process in general search for KS16 tire change on youtube!

No need to unscrew the complete shell!!!

I am currently in the process of repairing a Gotway Tesla too given to me by a NYC buyer that has the exact issues described by the OP. Although he bought it off of Ebay "Brand New" but its obvious that that Ebay listing was a lie. You can look at the pictures of what I found here:

https://imgur.com/a/4a4ep

A lot of current went through that battery connector (both the yellow and the 2 pin black) to cause the pins to melt. You can also see one of the screws burnt but no MOSFETs burnt.... although I haven't fully inspected the other MOSFETs. But also notice that all of the white silicon has been scraped away which is just more evidence that someone else has been tampering with the Tesla outside of the Gotway factory and the Chinese reseller.

So Gotway sent me a new control board but that didn't fix the issue. Now they sent me a new motor to replace. And I initially thought too that I could just drop the motor from the case after I remove the 12 pillar screws just like a Kingsong, however that is not possible since the shell completely encapsulates the pillar. You have to take the entire shell apart.... and in order to do that you have to disassemble the trolley handle just to get access to one damn screw in the middle of the shell. So if you ever need to replace a Tesla tire, you have to do a full disassembly. Makes me really appreciate much better user friendly designs that Kingsong has with their KS-14D and KS-16S.

Anyways, the Tesla now balances although the motor doesn't feel smooth when I roll it around with my hand. Haven't ridden it yet since I haven't fully assembled it yet since now the light doesn't come on. So I need to fix that first before I fully put it back together.

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8 minutes ago, Michael Vu said:

I am currently in the process of repairing a Gotway Tesla too given to me by a NYC buyer that has the exact issues described by the OP. Although he bought it off of Ebay "Brand New" but its obvious that that Ebay listing was a lie. You can look at the pictures of what I found here:

https://imgur.com/a/4a4ep

A lot of current went through that battery connector (both the yellow and the 2 pin black) to cause the pins to melt. You can also see one of the screws burnt but no MOSFETs burnt.... although I haven't fully inspected the other MOSFETs. But also notice that all of the white silicon has been scraped away which is just more evidence that someone else has been tampering with the Tesla outside of the Gotway factory and the Chinese reseller.

So Gotway sent me a new control board but that didn't fix the issue. Now they sent me a new motor to replace. And I initially thought too that I could just drop the motor from the case after I remove the 12 pillar screws just like a Kingsong, however that is not possible since the shell completely encapsulates the pillar. You have to take the entire shell apart.... and in order to do that you have to disassemble the trolley handle just to get access to one damn screw in the middle of the shell. So if you ever need to replace a Tesla tire, you have to do a full disassembly. Makes me really appreciate much better user friendly designs that Kingsong has with their KS-14D and KS-16S.

Anyways, the Tesla now balances although the motor doesn't feel smooth when I roll it around with my hand. Haven't ridden it yet since I haven't fully assembled it yet since now the light doesn't come on. So I need to fix that first before I fully put it back together.

Do you have some photos of the shell „encapsulating“ the pillar?

The small shell bridge, sitting under the pedal arm can be taken off, so i would be interested to see what stops from droping the wheel out!

Edit:

Ok, forget it...i just checked it and yes, the led light band and a small shell part sitting under the pedal arm...what a STUPID design :-(

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6 minutes ago, Michael Vu said:

I am currently in the process of repairing a Gotway Tesla too given to me by a NYC buyer that has the exact issues described by the OP. Although he bought it off of Ebay "Brand New" but its obvious that that Ebay listing was a lie. You can look at the pictures of what I found here:

https://imgur.com/a/4a4ep

A lot of current went through that battery connector (both the yellow and the 2 pin black) to cause the pins to melt. You can also see one of the screws burnt but no MOSFETs burnt.... although I haven't fully inspected the other MOSFETs. But also notice that all of the white silicon has been scraped away which is just more evidence that someone else has been tampering with the Tesla outside of the Gotway factory and the Chinese reseller.

So Gotway sent me a new control board but that didn't fix the issue. Now they sent me a new motor to replace. And I initially thought too that I could just drop the motor from the case after I remove the 12 pillar screws just like a Kingsong, however that is not possible since the shell completely encapsulates the pillar. You have to take the entire shell apart.... and in order to do that you have to disassemble the trolley handle just to get access to one damn screw in the middle of the shell. So if you ever need to replace a Tesla tire, you have to do a full disassembly. Makes me really appreciate much better user friendly designs that Kingsong has with their KS-14D and KS-16S.

Anyways, the Tesla now balances although the motor doesn't feel smooth when I roll it around with my hand. Haven't ridden it yet since I haven't fully assembled it yet since now the light doesn't come on. So I need to fix that first before I fully put it back together.

Wow, the Tesla is a new wheel. I wonder how it went through so much and then ended up on EBay. It's a tricky business when we don't buy from an established dealer, which I know sometimes we have to do. Hopefully the wheel will ride nice.

On the ACM (and maybe MSuper V3) you can remove the non-control board side of the shell to access the entire tire to replace it. No need to remove the cables, etc. If you only need to remove the tire do you still have to fully take the wheel apart?

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3 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

Do you have some photos of the shell „encapsulating“ the pillar?

The small shell bridge, sitting under the pedal arm can be taken off, so i would be interested to see what stops from droping the wheel out!

Edit:

Ok, forget it...i just checked it and yes, the led light band and a small shell part sitting under the pedal arm...what a STUPID design :-(

Reading your post (before your edit) had me wondering if you actually had a Tesla ;)

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

Wow, the Tesla is a new wheel. I wonder how it went through so much and then ended up on EBay

Maybe it got caught in a turnstile. :P

(to be fair that would fry something on any wheel, hopefully just the fuse on a KrackSong).  Thanks to this forum, I'm very conscious of not wedging my wheels under benches, etc.

  That @Jason McNeil inline fuse should be on all you HotWay owners Christmas lists.

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7 hours ago, Michael Vu said:

I am currently in the process of repairing a Gotway Tesla too given to me by a NYC buyer that has the exact issues described by the OP. Although he bought it off of Ebay "Brand New" but its obvious that that Ebay listing was a lie. You can look at the pictures of what I found here:

https://imgur.com/a/4a4ep

A lot of current went through that battery connector (both the yellow and the 2 pin black) to cause the pins to melt. You can also see one of the screws burnt but no MOSFETs burnt.... although I haven't fully inspected the other MOSFETs. But also notice that all of the white silicon has been scraped away which is just more evidence that someone else has been tampering with the Tesla outside of the Gotway factory and the Chinese reseller.

So Gotway sent me a new control board but that didn't fix the issue. Now they sent me a new motor to replace. And I initially thought too that I could just drop the motor from the case after I remove the 12 pillar screws just like a Kingsong, however that is not possible since the shell completely encapsulates the pillar. You have to take the entire shell apart.... and in order to do that you have to disassemble the trolley handle just to get access to one damn screw in the middle of the shell. So if you ever need to replace a Tesla tire, you have to do a full disassembly. Makes me really appreciate much better user friendly designs that Kingsong has with their KS-14D and KS-16S.

Anyways, the Tesla now balances although the motor doesn't feel smooth when I roll it around with my hand. Haven't ridden it yet since I haven't fully assembled it yet since now the light doesn't come on. So I need to fix that first before I fully put it back together.

I had the same experience but did not have to completely disassemble the trolley handle, I simply unscrewed the plastic pieces holding the metal bars in place and lightly bent the bar to the side, allowing access to the screw underneath.

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7 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Wow, the Tesla is a new wheel. I wonder how it went through so much and then ended up on EBay. It's a tricky business when we don't buy from an established dealer, which I know sometimes we have to do. Hopefully the wheel will ride nice.

On the ACM (and maybe MSuper V3) you can remove the non-control board side of the shell to access the entire tire to replace it. No need to remove the cables, etc. If you only need to remove the tire do you still have to fully take the wheel apart?

Maybe Mercedes Benz rented it? 

https://jalopnik.com/mercedes-parent-company-daimler-dismantled-a-rented-tes-1820961392

During the rental period, the car was apparently disassembled and screwed together again. In addition, it was tested under extreme conditions - including heat, on a vibrating track and a traction track.

Such uncivilized behavior. 

 

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On 12/5/2017 at 2:45 AM, Michael Vu said:

I am currently in the process of repairing a Gotway Tesla too given to me by a NYC buyer that has the exact issues described by the OP. Although he bought it off of Ebay "Brand New" but its obvious that that Ebay listing was a lie. You can look at the pictures of what I found here:

https://imgur.com/a/4a4ep

A lot of current went through that battery connector (both the yellow and the 2 pin black) to cause the pins to melt. You can also see one of the screws burnt but no MOSFETs burnt.... although I haven't fully inspected the other MOSFETs. But also notice that all of the white silicon has been scraped away which is just more evidence that someone else has been tampering with the Tesla outside of the Gotway factory and the Chinese reseller.

So Gotway sent me a new control board but that didn't fix the issue. Now they sent me a new motor to replace. And I initially thought too that I could just drop the motor from the case after I remove the 12 pillar screws just like a Kingsong, however that is not possible since the shell completely encapsulates the pillar. You have to take the entire shell apart.... and in order to do that you have to disassemble the trolley handle just to get access to one damn screw in the middle of the shell. So if you ever need to replace a Tesla tire, you have to do a full disassembly. Makes me really appreciate much better user friendly designs that Kingsong has with their KS-14D and KS-16S.

Anyways, the Tesla now balances although the motor doesn't feel smooth when I roll it around with my hand. Haven't ridden it yet since I haven't fully assembled it yet since now the light doesn't come on. So I need to fix that first before I fully put it back together.

Can you send us that eBay link... I’m curious to know who sold you a broken wheel from NY?

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1 hour ago, Tishawn Fahie said:

Can you send us that eBay link... I’m curious to know who sold you a broken wheel from NY?

i guess it was just a NYC buyer...the seller wasnt mentioned as coming from NY.

In fact he said that it was a chinese seller.

Would be not the first time some chinese ebay seller messed something up when disconnectiing the battery before sending it over.

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