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Just got my new Gotway Tesla and ...... it doesent work . The feeling is disappontment and frustration.

When  i turn it on two lights are flashing and it is constantly beebing two beeps .

No stabilasing or gyro .

The battery i fully charged

According to the beep list on this forum , it might be a bad hall sensor (i have no idea what that is)

I bought the wheel on aliexpress  (Green and fashion travaling shop). If anybody knows how to solve this problem , i would be grateful .

 

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Just now, Unimike said:

Just got my new Gotway Tesla and ...... it doesent work . The feeling is disappontment and frustration.

When  i turn it on two lights are flashing and it is constantly beebing two beeps .

No stabilasing or gyro .

The battery i fully charged

According to the beep list on this forum , it might be a bad hall sensor (i have no idea what that is)

I bought the wheel on aliexpress  (Green and fashion travaling shop). If anybody knows how to solve this problem , i would be grateful .

 

Hall sensors are sitting in the motor and do the motor sensoring/steering of the board!

Thats bad luck! Con tact your seller immediately!

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26 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

you will probably need a new motor :-(

There's a slight possibility that the hall sensor cable/connector has a problem, or is even disconnected. I would at least open the wheel and inspect the connector and maybe disconnect/connect it.

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1 hour ago, Unimike said:

Just got my new Gotway Tesla and ...... it doesent work . The feeling is disappontment and frustration.

When  i turn it on two lights are flashing and it is constantly beebing two beeps .

No stabilasing or gyro .

The battery i fully charged

According to the beep list on this forum , it might be a bad hall sensor (i have no idea what that is)

I bought the wheel on aliexpress  (Green and fashion travaling shop). If anybody knows how to solve this problem , i would be grateful .

 

Sounds like some things just don’t change. My msuper 3 had front and back leds defective as well as charger out of the box.

Not only is Gotway not making QC, they don’t even check their assembled machines work before shipping...

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

There's a slight possibility that the hall sensor cable/connector has a problem, or is even disconnected. I would at least open the wheel and inspect the connector and maybe disconnect/connect it.

Yes, true...but talking to the seller because of warranty before opening!

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1 hour ago, Unimike said:

According to the beep list on this forum , it might be a bad hall sensor (i have no idea what that is)

The hall sensors are inside the motor. They are sensors that detect voltage spikes as the motor magnets pass them, the magnetic field generates a small voltage spike in the sensor. This let's the controller know where the magnets are and when to power each phase of the motor to keep it spinning smoothly in a given direction.

The wires you want to check the connectors for are what carries the signals from the sensors back to the controller to report magnet position. 

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Before opening it up I thought I'd check out Tishawn's disassembly video. How exactly are you supposed to tell if the connections are fine if the connectors are all gooed up? :D

Maybe I should leave this to the professionals and wait for a comment from the seller... :unsure:

2017-11-09-202249_1940x897_scrot.png

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16 minutes ago, Flow said:

Before opening it up I thought I'd check out Tishawn's disassembly video. How exactly are you supposed to tell if the connections are fine if the connectors are all gooed up? :D

Maybe I should leave this to the professionals and wait for a comment from the seller... :unsure:

 

For a brand new wheel as costly as the Tesla, I would have my seller fix it / replace it. But if you have no other options, you'll have to start digging into yourself.

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The goo is just silicon caulk, much like what you'd find around the bathtub or sink. 

If you decide to check the wiring/connectors yourself it will take a little picking and pulling but should come off easily enough.

Just put a little caulk back on to hold things in place once you've reconnected them.

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2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

For a brand new wheel as costly as the Tesla, I would have my seller fix it / replace it. But if you have no other options, you'll have to start digging into yourself.

Agree with this. Can't you contact green and fashion? Until late they were considered a good seller and should at least send you a new board/motor!

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I linked the seller to this thread and he said "I'm helping him solve the problem" by which I assume he means the creator of the topic.

@Unimike Keep us updated please? :cry2:

EDIT: Small update: "I've already given the problem back to the manufacturer, and I'll get back to you as soon as possible."

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Thank you for all the wonderful responses , i have opened a dispute at aliexpress and requested a new wheel or my money back.

The seller sent me a message saying he will help me negotiate whith the manufacturer .

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  • 2 weeks later...

A quick update to the situation, after contacting Gotway the seller is shipping me a new Tesla motherboard but no information on what the issue was / is.

A motherboard replacement rules out a connectivity issue. If I understand correctly it also rules out an issue with the Hall sensor itself since it is inside the motor, correct?

Also I guess I will be expected to swap in the motherboard myself. :blink:

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1 minute ago, Flow said:

A quick update to the situation, after contacting Gotway the seller is shipping me a new Tesla motherboard but no information on what the issue was / is.

A motherboard replacement rules out a connectivity issue. If I understand correctly it also rules out an issue with the Hall sensor itself since it is inside the motor, correct?

Also I guess I will be expected to swap in the motherboard myself. :blink:

Hall sensors are in the motor. I think the seller is just trying to do the first obvious step (new board) without 100% knowledge it will fix the issue. Worst case, you'll need a new motor, too.

The board swapping should be relatively easy, no soldering needed (at least). Just knifing the cables/plug-in connectors free from the silicone, remove old and screw in the new board, connect the new board (bullet connectors) and add some more silicone where needed. If everything goes well that should be it.

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1 hour ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Hall sensors are in the motor. I think the seller is just trying to do the first obvious step (new board) without 100% knowledge it will fix the issue. Worst case, you'll need a new motor, too.

The board swapping should be relatively easy, no soldering needed (at least). Just knifing the cables/plug-in connectors free from the silicone, remove old and screw in the new board, connect the new board (bullet connectors) and add some more silicone where needed. If everything goes well that should be it.

Since I have nothing better to do while waiting for the new board, I disconnected all the connectors but there's still three wires coming from the motor that I cannot figure out how to disconnect.

I attached an image, it's the yellow, blue and turquoise wires. Tips would be appreciated. ^_^

Also, all connectors for the wires coming from the motors seemed properly connected which again speaks against it being a connectivity issue.

photo_2017-11-18_21-57-10.jpg

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They are fixed to the board in your picture and are supposed to be so.

These are the motor power wires. On their way to the motor (the big black cable coming out of the axle), you have the bullet connectors. Each cable (yellow, blue, cyan) has it's own under the (transparent) heat shrink. Cut away the shrink and you should be able to unplug them.

This is also how you connect the new board - plug in the connectors from the motor wire to the new board and DO NOT FORGET TO ADD NEW HEATSHRINK, IT IS THE ONLY THING ELECTRICALLY INSULATING THE CONNECTORS, IF THEY TOUCH WHEN THE WHEEL IS ON YOU GET A SHORT AND FRY THE WHEEL. ALSO BE CAREFUL TO NEVER LET THEM TOUCH IN DISASSEMBLY - DISCONNECT THE MAIN BATTERY CONNECTOR (the yellow blocky connector the black and red cable from the board lead to) AND SWITCH ON THE WHEEL UNTIL IT STOPS BALANCING/SWITCHES ITSELF OFF AND THE CAPACITORS ARE EMPTY TO MAKE SURE THERE'S NO ELECTRICITY LEFT SOMEWHERE THAT CAN PRODUCE A SHORT IF THE BARE CONNECTORS TOUCH. Also a good idea to separate the bullet connectors a bit to prevent heat build-up and reduce any risk of them touching each other without insulation (should the heat shrink fail for any reason, like overheating). Don't tie them together, ideally they should hang in the air separately.

See here. Picture courtesy of @Tishawn Fahie. The golden things are the bullet connectors.

IMG_0055.jpg.e6d456013feae6b1e6f9761922a

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