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From E+ to P speed


spattex

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9 hours ago, RooMiniPro said:

I'm glad you're enjoying it and thanks for keeping us updated.  I am too afraid to try this on my E+.  The older I get, the more risk averse I become.  I hope this mod never fails you.

I am enjoying the wheel how it is now when you get it how to ride a wheel with the E+ i whas hitting constant the max. speed limit. Now the cruising speed is around 26 27Km/hour and it's much more fun to ride. The battery pack upgrade did the trick so i can ride a comfort distance of 20 a 30Km and i hope the hack will survive... 

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The control board of the E+ is capable of delivering the additional power but the batteries are going to be pushing their limits.  The P was supposed to be capable of 800W continuous with a burst being somewhat higher (don't know the specs for that).  The E+ is a 500W motor with bursts somewhat higher. 

The control board uses the same power delivery MOSFETs as the E+ which are capable to deliver the power required by the P [on paper]. 

At 800W with nominal voltage of 55.5V, the E+ will be drawing 14.4A.  This is a shared current by the batteries in parallel so each battery string in series will see 7.2A.  The batteries are rated up to 10A so the pack is theoretically capable of 1,110W at the nominal voltage.  The batteries in the P are rated at 20A so the pack is theoretically capable of twice the power.  

http://forum.electricunicycle.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=3038

The Battery Management System of the E+ is an unknown.  One of the functions the BMS protects against is over-current.  I don't know what that setpoint is but you never want to exceed it.  Another issue is that as you reach higher power levels and get closer to the limits of the battery, you will get voltage sag.  It will recover when power is let off but this may be seen to the control board as a low battery causing pre-mature tiltback to slow you down. 

The motor I have no idea about.  I've never opened my motors up to snoop around.  

 

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Thank you. I have experienced the voltage sag. it is annoying. what design measure would have to be changed to get rid of it?

Also. riding up hill, but at the same speed as flat draws a higher current. Could this be dangerous? with the bms cutting off?? Or will tiltback save you, keeping you under the current limit?

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4 hours ago, exoplanet said:

...

Also. riding up hill, but at the same speed as flat draws a higher current. Could this be dangerous? with the bms cutting off?? Or will tiltback save you, keeping you under the current limit?

Definitely dangerous. And tiltback is essentially the "EUC trying to outrun you" by working even harder, so if you're rolling up the hill with maximum speed - it could happen that there is no available power to tilt you back...

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I rode the ninebot up a steep hill. It began screaming with beeps at a point. so it seems the ninebot really isnt suited for the speeds it is set for.

Is that an alarm for max current? rapid succession beeps.

It is hard to know how fast one can ride at any given hill One could ride a bit slower up hills (20kmh) and faster on the flats, but one will of course forget and DIE!

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4 hours ago, exoplanet said:

I rode the ninebot up a steep hill. It began screaming with beeps at a point. so it seems the ninebot really isnt suited for the speeds it is set for.

Is that an alarm for max current? rapid succession beeps.

It is hard to know how fast one can ride at any given hill One could ride a bit slower up hills (20kmh) and faster on the flats, but one will of course forget and DIE!

Correct. Fast beeps is the overcurrent alarm. And last warning as well since at this point there is no more power available for other than beeping...

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If you want to ride the E+ as a P, you need a battery pack that can deliver the amps that are required.  But even then the motor's capability to handle the higher current is unknown.  

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1 hour ago, exoplanet said:

What does one do about the battery to have it not be a problem?

what current can the current battery supply and what do i need to ride at 30

You need a better battery pack or you need to put another Ninebot one E+ battery in parallel with the existing pack to distribute load if you want to get the 60% increase in power that the P was rated to deliver.

The Ninebot one E+ cells are rated at 10A max each so with the battery having 2 cells in parallel it can deliver a theoretical maximum of 20A in the best of conditions.  Reality would probably be closer to about 14A-16A.

The Ninebot one P cells are rated at 20A max so realistically around 28A-32A max.

 

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What is the best way of connecting them in parallell? cutting the wire and soldering the positives and negatives together?

and where is the best place to mount the extra battery?I have seen some mount it inside the shell, but i dont have a spot welder.

Maybe just stick it in a  sack and tape or screw it in place.

Where can i get batteries for free or cheap?

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11 minutes ago, exoplanet said:

What is the best way of connecting them in parallell? cutting the wire and soldering the positives and negatives together?

and where is the best place to mount the extra battery?I have seen some mount it inside the shell, but i dont have a spot welder.

Maybe just stick it in a  sack and tape or screw it in place.

There are battery expansion sets available at for example 1radwerkstatt.de . I would not recommend some sack, tape, screws and tinkering.

11 minutes ago, exoplanet said:

Where can i get batteries for free or cheap?

You want performing batteries and not junk!?

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1 hour ago, exoplanet said:

What does one do about the battery to have it not be a problem?

what current can the current battery supply and what do i need to ride at 30

It is easier to get an Inmotion v8 or Kingsong wheel that already go 30 than to modify a ninebot.  Also they have bigger batteries.

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Judging @spattex experiences 30 Km/h is quite safe and stable with an additional battery pack. 

Guys, do you think 35Km/h would be possible for leveled road with no wind and not fast accelerations for some seconds?

I thought most problems with voltage drops or high current come with fast changes to speed, but once speed is got, is it so energy hungry to maintain?

This screenshot is at max speed with extra battery pack but default 1.4.0 firmware, going quite steep uphill, but current reading are almost 17 amps,  I thought max amps were 10A.

screnshot.jpg

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2 minutes ago, pollytronman said:

Finally managed to install P firmware on E+ with MRN76 tool. I need to activate "high speed mode" on the app but since version 4.x in android it dissapeared. Anybody has a older apk version to install and test?

 

Don't know if this will work, I downloaded it for my E+ and some of the functions don't work without signing in, and I suspect it won't let you since the new app was forced to be used.

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22 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Don't know if this will work, I downloaded it for my E+ and some of the functions don't work without signing in, and I suspect it won't let you since the new app was forced to be used.

Thanks a lot steve454 I gave it a shot but unfortunately it doesn't seem to have that option enabled either.

The actual iOS ninebot app supposedly does.

Should look something like this screenshot: 

1kXX93J.png

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9 minutes ago, pollytronman said:

Thanks a lot steve454 I gave it a shot but unfortunately it doesn't seem to have that option enabled either.

The actual iOS ninebot app supposedly does.

Should look something like this screenshot: 

1kXX93J.png

Ah!  I just remembered IOS has more functions than android app.  I don't have IOS phone, but now I remember seeing that high speed slider in another post a few months ago.  Good luck I hope someone knows how to make it work.

It seems @spattex last visited 20 OCT 2017.

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