GT16 Rear light fix?

[Mrd777]

My GT16 rear light was dead on arrival. Kind of a drag as I ride at night a lot. Any ideas for a fix or even access it?

thanks

[Scatcat]

Well, there are three places where the failure may be.

1) The connector in the cable compartment. To access it you need to remove the right side plexiglass I'm afraid. The connectors for the light are there. There are two small contacts leading to the back of the GT16, one is red, that is to the charging port, the other is white, and that is the light. The most probable cause is simply a disconnected cable, but it may be a broken crimping. If so you have the interesting options of getting a spare male/female pin, or breaking out the soldering iron and make do.

To remove the plexi, the only alternative I've found is using something sharp, like a model knife. The glass is VERY easy to crack, but don't despair, some weave tape and glue can fix a simple crack. I used black duct-tape to put it back, mostly to make sure I didn't create another way in for moisture. It worked superbly.

2) A loose connector or cable on the board. You need to disconnect battery, then all the cables in both cable compartments, then unscrew the controller-box with its eight screws. Then very carefully remove the lid, the eight plastic locks are pretty easy to break. Some are easier than others, try and be careful. When the lid is off, you can inspect the cables sitting at the opposite end from the MOSFETs and see if any connector is loose or any cable doesn't sit well in its connector.

3) If worst comes to worst, the fault may be in the LED-assembly. Like in the previous, you need to dismount all cables and remove the controller box. Then you need to unscrew the last screws to the motor and loosen the screws keeping the two halves of the shell together. Get the wheel out, then unscrew the two halves of the shell altogether. Then you can access the LED/charging-port assembly. This is probably easier to do without breaking anything than alternative 2, but also the most complete dismantlement of the EUC  

 

So the easiest parts to break are the plexis and the locks for the controller box lid. The former is less of a problem than the latter. But if you break one of the locks, some loc-tite or epoxy can save the day. Also, there was some rubbery sealant putty of some kind or the other between lid and cooling plate on mine. When I get my spares, I plan to find some non-stick sealant to replace it with.

[Mrd777]

Scatcat, thank you so much for responding, I really appreciate your effort writing!

It's really not easy to open it up.

[Scatcat]

7 hours ago, Mrd777 said:

Scatcat, thank you so much for responding, I really appreciate your effort writing!

It's really not easy to open it up.

It's hardest the first few times, until you get the routine down. Then it's not much harder than any other EUC. Gotway is simpler in one way, since the board is in the same compartment as one of the battery packs. But try to get to the LED assembly in a Gotway, and it becomes more complicated.

[steve454]

On 7/18/2017 at 10:25 PM, Mrd777 said:

My GT16 rear light was dead on arrival. Kind of a drag as I ride at night a lot. Any ideas for a fix or even access it?

thanks

What about the blinking red lights bicyclists use?  You could velcro it to the wheel.  Easier than taking the wheel apart.