TremF Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Ian at Speedyfeet has the parts in I need to turn my ugly damaged blue Gotway Monster into a shiny new beautiful purple Gotway Monster! I've had to order the purple shell (obviously), the cable covers (because I've changed from blue to purple), a switch holder panel (because mine got dinged and bits inside snapped) and finally a new front light cover (because my current is pretty scratched up). Delivery will be tomorrow and hopefully I won't have any drama's switching stuff over. A bad thing about the Monster being so new and not so popular, due to price, is there are no tear down video's for it. It will be great to be able to ride with pride again and not have people see black tape around the front light holder and also not have to have the seat on just so people don't see the two big white cable ties holding the handle area together! Gotway really need to do something to strengthen up the bits and pieces around the handle and front light areas as, with the weight of the Monster, it's too easy for them to get damaged if it drops and/or has a fit for any reason. I still need to source some sort of rubber bumper to put on bits that make can make contact. I'm thinking of this or similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxmulder32 Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 My Monster also not ideal after crash, and I have idea for bumper source - car's rubber carpent like on picture. Will cover all front and back surfaces and make hole for front light and slot for stoplights. Also attach strips for side corners, who also make a contact in crash. I strengthen all bits inside with liquid thermo-glue. Broken ones stick together with super-glue before. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TremF Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 It could be a good idea but I am fussy about straight & tidy edges so could be messy for me cutting it. I don't really like the idea of having to cover so much of the Monster so may just cover edges/corners that come into contact. A few scratches I can live with but the mess i currently have I can't. When I have time I'll look at what i am currently thinking of using and also look into your idea and make a decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 1 hour ago, TremF said: A bad thing about the Monster being so new and not so popular, due to price, is there are no tear down video's for it. So when you do replace your parts you are going to video it aren't you ?. PS I can imagine that rubber strip you linked to looking fairly horrible, wouldn't this adhesive chrome trim protect but look a lot nicer? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chrome-Detail-Styling-Moulding-Adhesive/dp/B0188XJYIO/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1496304625&sr=8-1&keywords=Self+adhesive+chrome+trim or the standard EUC trim as discussed here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TremF Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 11 minutes ago, Keith said: So when you do replace your parts you are going to video it aren't you ?. PS I can imagine that rubber strip you linked to looking fairly horrible, wouldn't this adhesive chrome trim protect but look a lot nicer? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chrome-Detail-Styling-Moulding-Adhesive/dp/B0188XJYIO/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1496304625&sr=8-1&keywords=Self+adhesive+chrome+trim or the standard EUC trim as discussed here: If it wasn't my first time opening an EUC and moving the bits I possibly would but as it's my first it's going to take a while. Also due to my health problems I am in quite a lot of pain and feeling quite stiff at the moment so don't really want to be filming myself. To be honest I want my Monster to be well protected not necessarily looking good. I really don't like the idea/look of the shiny chrome and the usual protective stuff isn't hard wearing enough. The rubber will be much more durable and protective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TremF Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 OK... I've awoken this morning firstly excited at the thought of receiving a shiny new purple shell and new front light and switch covers for my Monster but then DREAD & FEAR! lol (nervous laugh) I've messaged Ian for advice but basically I have never had a puncture on any of my 3 wheels over the past 2 years so have never had to take one side off let alone both and move everything from one shell to another. The silicon sealant all over the connections on the control board is what put me off replacing my ACM control board! This is one of my main worries. Watching Ian's tear down of the MSuper V3 it looks like before I start I may need CPU paste (to go under part of the heatsink attached to the control board), double sided tape/glue (to attach various clips to the inside of the new case and silicon sealant (which I have already - to put on connections and screws on the control board to stop them vibrating off) I plan to take photo's as I go along, possibly label cables so I can connect them correctly? and place screws on pieces of paper with labels as to where they belong so I know where they go. I may even print some photo's off, A4 sized, so I can add labels/notes if needed. I don't have the CPU paste or double sided tape/super glue so will have to order some from Amazon today for delivery tomorrow before I can start? Any help/advice/video's anyone can offer to make this as painless as possible will be highly appreciated, Thank you in advance! Update - Ian has offered to do a tear down video if I can wait a little so I will probably take him up on that. Due to various reason which include my pain meds my memory and concentration aren't what they used to be which is knocking my confidence a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 "Worst" thing is remaking the connectors between motor cables and board cables. You have to solder and everything (I don't think these are pluggable, are they?). People seem to pry out the siliconed connectors without problem. As long as nothing gets damaged (cables, board). Make sure to double check that the cables are well in the connector plastic parts, some problems with that recently here where loose hall sensor cables caused issues. Use non-conducting thermal paste. Be careful when connecting batteries (see @Rehab1's "WTF just happened" thread). Keep the battery packs interconnected when they are out of the wheel (so they are at the same voltage), and the "entire battery assembly" <-> "board power plug" should be the last thing to connect. Good luck and don't short anything accidentally In principle, the GW wheels are exemplary in simplicity/moddability/repairs/this stuff so if you know what you are doing, not that hard. Just scary for beginners In doubt, film and document everything. There are some old GW videos of how to assemble and disassemble the ACM, maybe they help you getting an idea what everything is for and how it's put together. Monster should be fairly similar, principles are the same. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC65q0zGGA1sWhNnZUl6f-sQ/videos (I should add I've never done more than open the side panels. And sorry to hear you have pain problems.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 9 hours ago, TremF said: The silicon sealant all over the connections on the control board is what put me off replacing my ACM control board! This is one of my main worries. It is best to use an exacto type knive to gently cut around the silicone that is encasing the plugs and sockets. Be careful not to cut any wires! Then use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the narrow sides of the plug and gently wiggle it back and forth while pulling on it. Do not pull on the wires! The plugs will then easily dislodge from the sockets on the board. I also found that using various colored sharpie markers on the plug and sockets before disassembly will help to indentify the proper location of each connection when you reassemble it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 With the last removable shunt connector, I thought that you pressed the button (momentary switch) first and while keeping the button pressed then attach the external wire jumper? Or is it a latching type of switch? I think the button is attached to a resistor in the circuit so it basically does the same thing as the yellow connector with the built in resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TremF Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 4 hours ago, Rehab1 said: It is best to use an exacto type knive to gently cut around the silicone that is encasing the plugs and sockets. Be careful not to cut any wires! Then use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the narrow sides of the plug and gently wiggle it back and forth while pulling on it. Do not pull on the wires! The plugs will then easily dislodge from the sockets on the board. I also found that using various colored sharpie markers on the plug and sockets before disassembly will help to indentify the proper location of each connection when you reassemble it. Thanks for the info and good advice. I have a craft knife I can use for the silicone, I should have some needle nose pliers in my tech kit and I've just ordered a set of sharpie markers for the wires/connectors. If it goes well with the Monster I might tackle the ACM board change as that will be much easier than changing a whole shell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 2 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: With the last removable shunt connector, I thought that you pressed the button (momentary switch) first and while keeping the button pressed then attach the external wire jumper? Or is it a latching type of switch? I think the button is attached to a resistor in the circuit so it basically does the same thing as the yellow connector with the built in resistor. You might be right! See Hunka that is why the forum relies on you so much..... "To Serve and Protect!" Unfortunately I never hooked it up as there was no room left inside compartment since my cooling fan is taking up so much space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 I was just taking a guess at how it works. Looking a bit more online I think that's what people are doing - holding the momentary switch in so the current is drawn through the resistor and while keeping it held in they insert the heavy gauge wire jumper. Inserting the jumper first would result in the same spark with no arrest feature I think. Those other spark arrester connectors that you got look better suited for our usage as we don't disconnect batteries that often like RC plane users do. How are they working? Do you notice less of a spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 30 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: I was just taking a guess at how it works. Looking a bit more online I think that's what people are doing - holding the momentary switch in so the current is drawn through the resistor and while keeping it held in they insert the heavy gauge wire jumper. Inserting the jumper first would result in the same spark with no arrest feature I think. That sounds logical. It is a well designed device! The XL60 connectors and all of the wiring were assembled perfectly. 30 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Those other spark arrester connectors that you got look better suited for our usage as we don't disconnect batteries that often like RC plane users do. How are they working? Do you notice less of a spark? Did you happen to see the XL90S sitting on my bench? I just connected the battery packs to main board the Gotway way. There was a large arc when plugging the 2 connectors together but nothing like the other episode. I must admit... I did wear gloves! So in my opinion the correct sequence for reconnecting the packs to the main board is to first reconnect the secondary wire connectors coming off of the packs and then connect the 2 packs together. Then make the final connection between the packs to the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxmulder32 Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 My variant of Monster protection: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 @TremF You've already seen that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxmulder32 Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 No, but I completely disassemble my Monster by myself. Nothing hard. Monster need screw fixer (blue liquid) and special washers with fixers under axis nuts. Without them dropouts start wobbling every 100 km without fixing in my case. And total hydroisolation, of course ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TremF Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 16 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: @TremF You've already seen that? Yes I have seen this thanks. He made this video at my request and told me as soon as he had uploaded it. I don't have the screws I need to replace the damaged/missing ones so haven't tackled the swap yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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