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Scatcat

Second hand GT16, interesting mix of highs and lows

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Congratulations and very interesting explanation. Please continue explaining your evolution and upload more photos to see the status

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Thanks for the report.

The way that these wheels are coming from the factory tells me that they really don't care that much about producing a quality product

It's almost like they spent too much money getting the production going and just had to start shipping regardless so that they could get cash flow.

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Hope you enjoy your purchase!  

Worse comes to worse and you wind up regretting it, you still spent only about half as much as a new one would have cost.

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49 minutes ago, Scatcat said:

More space around the tire – there should be enough space to accommodate a 2.5" tire

I continually wonder why EUC manufacturers never choose 2.5 inch tire for 16 inch wheels after the IPS Lhotz used it very successfully. 2.5 is much nicer, even if you never go off-road. 

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That they chose a narrower tire may be because they went with 858Wh rather than 1300 or 1600. A narrower tire is more efficient in terms of range. What amazes me is more that the tolerances are so small, that even the tire present is a squeeze. It is not logical, since another six mm/quarter inch in each direction wouldn't hurt either the aesthetics or the function of the wheel, or for that matter increase the cost of production more than marginally.

But yes, with the current high-capacity batteries on the market, a 2.5" tire would be a slam dunk. Better capability of swallowing the bumps and curbs, and smoother running overall. Given we have no suspension beyond our knees, that would really be worthwhile. 

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23 minutes ago, MaxLinux said:

I continually wonder why EUC manufacturers never choose 2.5 inch tire for 16 inch wheels after the IPS Lhotz used it very successfully. 2.5 is much nicer, even if you never go off-road. 

You can always do what @Ando Melkonyan did with his ACM. He cut away the parts of the shell that were in the way and then put a 2-1/2" tire on :thumbup:

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28 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

You can always do what @Ando Melkonyan did with his ACM. He cut away the parts of the shell that were in the way and then put a 2-1/2" tire on :thumbup:

ACM is a great example. To me ACM is ideal candidate for 2.5 tire, but Gotway chose not to use it. Why?

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I'm a bit leery of starting to cut in my newly aquired wheel... :D

But if this tire-touching-shell thingie doesn't go away with me tightening the screws, I'll have to look into it.

Have already considered dremeling away some of the excess from the mud-flap, to maybe maybe get it to work as it is supposed to.

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9 minutes ago, Scatcat said:

I'm a bit leery of starting to cut in my newly aquired wheel... :D

But if this tire-touching-shell thingie doesn't go away with me tightening the screws, I'll have to look into it.

Have already considered dremeling away some of the excess from the mud-flap, to maybe maybe get it to work as it is supposed to.

Congratulations on your new GT16 :D 

The shell on mine rubs slightly but only when riding on one foot. Do yours rub all the time? Have you tried both with the mud flap extended and retracted?

Very good idea with the silver protection trimming! Looks much better than the standard padding that everyone uses :)

Maybe one day someone will design a 3D printable mud guard similar to the Gotway Msuper one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2083438

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2 hours ago, MaxLinux said:

ACM is a great example. To me ACM is ideal candidate for 2.5 tire, but Gotway chose not to use it. Why?

I love the 2.5" tyre on the Lhotz... it gives so much control! In NZ I have to ride on the sidewalk and with the wider tyre I can ride slower than a walking pace (when I need to navigate the ignorant pedestrians).

In fact, when I jumped into my Airwheel (X8) to teach my sister to ride, it seemed quite wobbly and odd.

And then, off-road... AWESOME!!!

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I haven't tried a 2.5" EUC but IMHO the 2.125" on the GT16 is really nice. Smooth/stable in high speed, no problem creeping after pedestrians and turns on a dime :)

Who knows, maybe I will change my mind if I ever test a 2.5"...

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I should have taken photos, but was so engrossed in work I didn't... I tried to take it apart, which was very interesting and added to the "craptastic" feeling of the wheel.

The first steps are pretty straightforward, basically taking the pedals off and the covers. Then it starts getting interesting...

Someone at Rockwheel thought it an intelligent thing to do, to make a separate compartment for the cables. Sounds good eh, until you hit the wall.

cable-compartment.jpg.7563a5178891ae5a899a7a157f95b3c1.jpg

I borrowed this photo to illustrate...

Notice the minuscule hole between the battery compartment and the cable-compartment? That is where all the cables goes through. The compartment is about the size of a matchbox, and in there are the cables that's supposed to take 1500W... Adding insult to injury, it is sealed by a bit of plexi glued to the opening. I almost got it out without breaking it, i chipped one of the corners. Then working in that compartment for a full grown man, is like asking for trouble. I managed to break one of the cables in the soldering and had to get the soldering iron out to repair the damage.

In reality I can see no reason whatsoever of solving the cable mess that way, unless it's done to nail DIYers that call for warranty after f-ing up. To be frank it's counterproductive, since heavy duty cabling lies twisted in that little space, risking breakage of solderings and so on. My missing LED cable was found, so I suppose it was worthwhile.

The whole reason to take it apart was to separate the wheel from the shell, but I gave up.

After getting all the cables loose and taping them down, then unscrewing the screws holding the shell to the pedals, I tried to pry the wheel loose. No such luck.

Either there are some hidden fastenings, or you have to disassemble the shell, or there is massive amount of glue somewhere, because the wheel didn't budge a millimeter. If someone knows of some more things you have to do apart from taking the six-per-side screws away to get the wheel loose, I'd really like to know. I would be good to be able to take a look at the shell without the wheel, and see if I can do something about the tolerances. I love it, but having a wheel that touches the shell when on one foot, is less than ideal... It distracts from the beauty of riding.

 

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BTW my longest ride without having to step off on the third day was 50 meters, and I made my first controlled turn! :clap3:

Still feeling a bit like the parent the teen watches dancing, but for a total of 2:30 hours of riding, it feels like I'm on track. If things go on like this, I can sell my old one very soon.

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2 hours ago, Scatcat said:

BTW my longest ride without having to step off on the third day was 50 meters, and I made my first controlled turn! :clap3:

Still feeling a bit like the parent the teen watches dancing, but for a total of 2:30 hours of riding, it feels like I'm on track. If things go on like this, I can sell my old one very soon.

Cool.  Fun adventure, eh?

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2 hours ago, Scatcat said:

Either there are some hidden fastenings, or you have to disassemble the shell, or there is massive amount of glue somewhere, because the wheel didn't budge a millimeter. If someone knows of some more things you have to do apart from taking the six-per-side screws away to get the wheel loose, I'd really like to know.

Ecodrive just posted a link to their review today, part 2 shows some details of them taking it apart:

https://ecodrift.ru/wiki-article/rockwheel-gt16-review/

 

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Out riding for the fourth time.

592966cd6305c_2017-05-2713_43_09.thumb.jpg.26774aaaa8a884e68d61b293982ee7d6.jpg

I'm now at the point where I can ride for minutes at a time. Wouldn't trust me among pedestrians yet, but I'm getting there.

No falls today. Found a big mostly empty parking lot to practice my meager skills on. Wobbly as a duck, but reasonably in control.

Hardest parts? Well the centre of gravity is higher on this wheel. It is also very, very nimble - so much so that I find myself overcompensating a lot. Except for one aspect, accelerating and breaking needs more effort, which was scary as hell until I got used to it. ?

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32 minutes ago, Scatcat said:

Out riding for the fourth time.

592966cd6305c_2017-05-2713_43_09.thumb.jpg.26774aaaa8a884e68d61b293982ee7d6.jpg

I'm now at the point where I can ride for minutes at a time. Wouldn't trust me among pedestrians yet, but I'm getting there.

No falls today. Found a big mostly empty parking lot to practice my meager skills on. Wobbly as a duck, but reasonably in control.

Hardest parts? Well the centre of gravity is higher on this wheel. It is also very, very nimble - so much so that I find myself overcompensating a lot. Except for one aspect, accelerating and breaking needs more effort, which was scary as hell until I got used to it. ?

Sounds like you're doing well.  Keep going!  Maybe you can get in some good weekend sessions.

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3 hours ago, Dingfelder said:

Sounds like you're doing well.  Keep going!  Maybe you can get in some good weekend sessions.

Actually when I got home I realised I was getting late for an event, and just turned around and rode on...

It was quite wonderful. :)

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The grip tape works brililantly, but I really need to fix some better shell protection. Anyone knows where to buy rubber covers?

grippy.jpg

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43 minutes ago, Lorents said:

I guess the most common way to protect your EUC are these protective bumper strips:

https://www.banggood.com/Airwheel-Electric-Unicycle-Bumper-Strip-Wheelbarrow-Protective-Strip-p-957046.html?rmmds=search

Thanks for the link, but the protection I was after this time, was some rubber or vinyl foil to protect the shell from the gripping tape I added.

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Posted (edited)
On 2017-5-26 at 8:13 AM, Scatcat said:

That they chose a narrower tire may be because they went with 858Wh rather than 1300 or 1600. A narrower tire is more efficient in terms of range.

It seems quite unlikely that this would make any notable difference. Given the same air pressure however, a wider tire has less rolling resistance and hence should give the larger range. Having said that though, even the tire construction and the used materials (and of course the profile) probably have a much larger influence than the size in itself.

Edited by Mono

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