NEW Gotway Monster 100V

[Marty Backe]

1 minute ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I don't quite remember how it all started ,  but no worries Marty.  If the GT16 bumplants while you're naked and riding backwards I got your back.  I'll be ready to catch you.  

 You always make me laugh @Hunka Hunka Burning Love

[Mono]

11 hours ago, captainwells said:

I saw a reference to a faceplant at 40km/h so I have tilt-back set at 39km/h.

You may consider that the faceplant you saw referenced could also have happened at 37km/h (considering measurement uncertainty or slight different conditions). I also don't think a tiltback at 39km/h is a good warranty to never get to 40km/h or beyond. You would probably need more slack to achieve this.

[SuperSport]

5 hours ago, Mono said:

I also don't think a tiltback at 39km/h is a good warranty to never get to 40km/h or beyond. You would probably need more slack achieve this.

Agreed.  If it potentially dies at 40, you need a larger margin to avoid it dying.  Any bump, rock, hill, etc can take it over the edge.  Especially when it's already working extra hard to tilt you back.

[esaj]

17 hours ago, steve454 said:

 

Sorry, @KingSong69, I was trying to quote both you and Marty, but I can only quote one post, so I tried to put your quote and his together, but it looks like Marty said both things.

The plus ( + ) -sign next to the "Quote" -button is multiquote. You click it on all the posts you want to quote and then click the "Quote X posts" -button that appears in the lower right corner. Don't know how it looks on mobiles though.

[steve454]

3 hours ago, esaj said:

The plus ( + ) -sign next to the "Quote" -button is multiquote. You click it on all the posts you want to quote and then click the "Quote X posts" -button that appears in the lower right corner. Don't know how it looks on mobiles though.

Thanks, esaj.

[steve454]

21 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

21 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

 

Idle you only hear the high pitched whine. It's less bad/loud than it seems in videos, and you forget about it if you're not concentrating on it, but it's stil there and occasionally while riding you remember it and wish the wheel would be a bit more quiet (this includes the turbine noise, it's a bit like you hear forest workers with saws in the far distance, as long as you concentrate on it, otherwise you forget).

But I would not consider it a reason to go against such a wheel in any way.

 

I like the sound I hear in the videos.  To me it's a plus.

 

[captainwells]

12 hours ago, Mono said:

You may consider that the faceplant you saw referenced could also have happened at 37km/h (considering measurement uncertainty or slight different conditions). I also don't think a tiltback at 39km/h is a good warranty to never get to 40km/h or beyond. You would probably need more slack to achieve this.

 

7 hours ago, SuperSport said:

Agreed.  If it potentially dies at 40, you need a larger margin to avoid it dying.  Any bump, rock, hill, etc can take it over the edge.  Especially when it's already working extra hard to tilt you back.

 

So my three alarm levels are set at 38,39, and 40 km/h.  I have tilt-back set at 42 km/h.  These setting suit my riding style.  The wheel feels plenty fast at 35 km/h.  I never ride with the wheel beeping.  The only time I would get into beep territory would be when I'm passing a bike or something.  I don't anticipate ever hitting 40 km/h.  The tilt-back is at 42 km/h because even though it's a subtle tilt-back, I only want it as a last resort if I can't hear the beeps.

[meepmeepmayer]

@steve454 I can understand that! I watched a longer Ninebot video once, and it sounded so... silent and boring in comparison.

Also I don't know how the ACM sounds to a person not riding the wheel, I only heard it riding myself. Maybe it's totally different? I don't want to annoy people, I would not like high-pitched/whining stuff myself when in nature etc, if it is too loud/notable.

[steve454]

26 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

I don't want to annoy people, I would not like high-pitched/whining stuff myself when in nature etc, if it is too loud/notable.

Good point, other people might not like the sound as much as the rider, but I tend to give right of way to everyone not on a wheel and never ride near groups of people, so for me it might be good.  I never hear people say anything about the noise a wheel is making in any of the videos I've seen, so maybe it is like you said, the camera hears the noise more than the ears.

[Mono]

1 hour ago, captainwells said:

So my three alarm levels are set at 38,39, and 40 km/h.  I have tilt-back set at 42 km/h.  These setting suit my riding style.  The wheel feels plenty fast at 35 km/h.  I never ride with the wheel beeping.  The only time I would get into beep territory would be when I'm passing a bike or something.  I don't anticipate ever hitting 40 km/h.  The tilt-back is at 42 km/h because even though it's a subtle tilt-back, I only want it as a last resort if I can't hear the beeps.

I guess you are grown up, so you have to do what you have to do.

[Rehab1]

On 4/20/2017 at 1:48 AM, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I don't quite remember how it all started ,  but no worries Marty.  If the GT16 bumplants while you're naked and riding backwards I got your back.  I'll be ready to catch you.  

Sounds like a Brokeback Mountain moment!

 

[yourtoys7]

Any more news on this? will it be called V2 ?

[meepmeepmayer]

Fake/Gotway have said this is not coming. I'm not 100% sure/have no sources I can remember, but don't expect this. It really makes little sense concerning the battery sizes they could put in it without redesigning the shell.

[TremF]

Something like this isn't required IMO. The current 84v Monster is an absolute beast. I haven't heard of anyone having any issues with it yet, other than the case at the handle being it's weak spot, but no running issues/cut out reports I know of. 

I misjudged my speed when I went to ride up a slight lip onto a stone block and ended up stepping off and was unable to catch the Monster. Due to the wheel being so exposed, when it dropped, it span up flipping it over and smashing the handle into the ground. there are 6 main screws that hold the handle together, 3 on the left holding the rear of the handle and 3 on the right holding the front of the handle, and none of the 3 on the right hand side are holding it now because the thin parts of the case inside them areas have cracked/broken so I am now waiting on a new case.

I think they have a good range now and should really work on making their current wheels into the best and safest they can be rather than trying to get faster and more powerful. If they do this more people will recommend them and they'll make more sales.

[Hunka Hunka Burning Love]

Do you have any photos of the broken areas?  I wonder whether some acetone and Lego might help in repairing the areas.  Maybe bonding in a small metal washer, nut or thin metal "keeper" with a hole drilled through it would work.  There are a few ABS acetone repair videos online.

 

[TremF]

9 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Do you have any photos of the broken areas?  I wonder whether some acetone and Lego might help in repairing the areas.  Maybe bonding in a small metal washer, nut or thin metal "keeper" with a hole drilled through it would work.  There are a few ABS acetone repair videos online.

 

Either the bit the screws screw into, on the left side, has snapped away from the inside of the case or the screws are still attached to that part and have been pulled through the hole they go into, on the right side, meaning there's nothing to grip.

As I need to open the case anyway I'd rather just replace it than try and find a way of fixing the weak parts. Also there are two very small screws that hold the front light and the case has cracked, on the right hand side around one of them so it won't hold for long.
Once I get the new case on I will be looking at finding a way to add rubber strips or something to act as bumpers/shock absorbers in case of another flip  
I think the handle and top panel of the Monster is it's weakest parts and they need to find a way of making it tougher.

[Carlos E Rodriguez]

10 hours ago, TremF said:

Either the bit the screws screw into, on the left side, has snapped away from the inside of the case or the screws are still attached to that part and have been pulled through the hole they go into, on the right side, meaning there's nothing to grip.

As I need to open the case anyway I'd rather just replace it than try and find a way of fixing the weak parts. Also there are two very small screws that hold the front light and the case has cracked, on the right hand side around one of them so it won't hold for long.
Once I get the new case on I will be looking at finding a way to add rubber strips or something to act as bumpers/shock absorbers in case of another flip  
I think the handle and top panel of the Monster are it's weakest parts and they need to find a way of making it tougher.

You can repair using what body ships use to fix car bumpers. Is a special hot iron and filler material. They also use metal clips for reinforcement. 

[TremF]

1 hour ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said:

You can repair using what body ships use to fix car bumpers. Is a special hot iron and filler material. They also use metal clips for reinforcement. 

Thank you for the helpful info. My fine motor skills aren't brilliant so with where the problems are I'd rather get the new case and reinforce the weak spots on that than try and fiddle getting broken bits into place. I've just looked at a plastic welding kit which would likely be useful for strengthening up the new case so may get that as well. 

[Hansolo]

 

Error

 

 

[Dingfelder]

3 hours ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said:

You can repair using what body ships use to fix car bumpers. Is a special hot iron and filler material. They also use metal clips for reinforcement. 

If I were to go to Amazon to find it,say ... what would I call the material and the tool?  

Do you think it would be economical compared to getting a new case?

[SuperSport]

Plastic Welding Kit.  The case in color with the rubber finish is around $200. Not sure about black. 

[steve454]

2 hours ago, TremF said:

I've just looked at a plastic welding kit which would likely be useful for strengthening up the new case so may get that as well. 

That sounds like a hot glue gun?  Hot glue can be added at weak points, used it to strengthen the shell of my drone once, but it is slightly heavy.  On a drone, not so good to add weight, but on a wheel, no problem.

[SuperSport]

4 minutes ago, steve454 said:

That sounds like a hot glue gun?  Hot glue can be added at weak points, used it to strengthen the shell of my drone once, but it is slightly heavy.  On a drone, not so good to add weight, but on a wheel, no problem.

Kinda sorta. Different material. 

[Dingfelder]

1 hour ago, SuperSport said:

Plastic Welding Kit.  The case in color with the rubber finish is around $200. Not sure about black. 

Cool thanks, that's good to know.

[Carlos E Rodriguez]

2 hours ago, Dingfelder said:

If I were to go to Amazon to find it,say ... what would I call the material and the tool?  

Do you think it would be economical compared to getting a new case?

@Dingfelder

http://www.ebay.com/itm/525-Degree-80-Watt-Iron-Plastic-Welding-Kit-for-quick-easy-plastic-repair-/311857216355?hash=item489c237b63:g:iEkAAOxy9eVRMZ9c

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PVC-PC-PP-PC-ABS-WELDING-RODS-STICKS-FOR-PLASTIC-WELDER-TOOL-WELD-MELTING-50-PCS/261594938195?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40130%26meid%3D7a97833384ac4b1cba648a736b0b808c%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D252469199673

below is the better one that has also metal clips.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Bumper-Hot-Stapler-Fairing-Repair-Tool-Staples-Plastic-Cut-Weld-Gun-Kit-220V-/192148202331?hash=item2cbcece35b:g:vWcAAOSww3tY4zuJ&vxp=mtr