Bat

Inmotion V8 tyre / inner tube / replacement

19 posts in this topic

I think those LED strips need connectors. I'd hate stripping them from the chassis, glue will not hold properly after a couple of times.

Is the Kenda tyre really that bad? :( Or by "stinky" did you just refer to the new tyre smell which will go away?

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Kenda isn't that bad, but it's not the best either :-)

I meant literally stinky, I don't know about yours, but my previous Kenda still stinks after 6 months of riding. Can't sit in the same room with EUC with Kenda.

I don't think it's just the "brand new" smell, I think they add some kind of shitty chemicals, that evaporate everyday. 

On E+ I had both the original tyre (e-line something, don't remember) and Schwalbe. The "fresh" smell has been gone very quickly.

 

However, I just keep my V8 with Kenda in a separate room. I will change the tyre before winter. Right now I just needed to change the inner tube (had a puncture).

Regarding the LEDs, I don't think they will cause any problems. Except the glue, there are some small plastic elements keeping them in line. Besides the glue is just a normal double-sided tape, so you can always replace it after 20 times reattaching :-) I'm not worried about it at all. Actually I was happy to reattach the LEDs, as they were originally sticked very sloppy, like someone was in a hurry in the factory. Now it's much better.

It's weird how much tape is used in the V8, I was shocked when disassembled it, especially because the battery.

It's also weird you have to unstick the LED endings to swap the battery... it's much easier in Ninebot. Actually in Ninebot it's much easier to change the tyre as well.

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I agree, it does smell.. I've had my wheel for only a week or so, so can't comment on whether it disapperars over time.. That same smell lingers in hardware stores where there's a lot of Chinese rubber/plastic stuff.

Any suggestions for good replacement outer tyres? IIRC V8 has 16" x 2.125" but EUC tyres seem to have a higher load limit (due to the fact that there's only a single tyre which bears the whole weight of driver + EUC).

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I like Schwalbe Big Apple - it's great for cities, as it has lower profile and it's overall narrower. Besides it's smooth so it's almost completely silent.

However, for new riders it's easier to have a 2.125 or wider tyre. I also recommend Schwalbe Mad Mike as an off-road / winter tyre - but it makes some noise on asphalt.

Schwalbe has also a separate line for electric bicycles, but I've never had a chance to try it.

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16 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I had to rewatch that video several times as strangely I was a little distracted.  :popcorn:  Was there an EUC in that video?  :whistling:

Hell Yeah! I don't see any EUC in this video!

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19 hours ago, TechShizzle said:

Remove the wheel nuts

what do you exactly mean by wheel nuts? 

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Posted (edited)

21 hours ago, TechShizzle said:

This is doing it the hard way.

I just replaced my tire on my V8. Start by removing the pedals, then the outer shells. Once the outer shells are off, remove the covers on the wheel nut (both sides), then remove the motherboard cover and unplug the cables going from the motherboard to the wheel. No other motherboard manipulation is required. Remove the wheel nuts, and the whole assembly slides out the bottom. Super easy.

This way you don't need to touch the LED strips, so there's issue with the adhesive losing it's "sticky", or damaging the LED strips in anyway. The whole process took me less than half an hour, and I'm not particularly mechanically inclined.

There is no easy way. What you've just described is the hardcore way and it actually voids the warranty. 

You are afraid of unsticking some cheap LEDs, but you have no problem to remove the motherboard cover and risk messing something in it (I'm sure the manufacturers love this way), especially when the battery is still plugged in.

Besides, you have to unplug crucial elements like the engine cable and take off both sides of the wheel. I can't see any advantages of this solution. The one on the video took me half an hour as well, without messing with any important parts like the motherboard or engine cords. Detaching the LEDs is easy-peasy, and like I said - I could reattach them better than it was done in the factory.

And it's just one side to take off, just like in Ninebot One E+. Sure, you can take off both sides of E+ including the motherboard (and ignoring the warning of voiding the warranty), to just replace a tyre, but why would you? 

Edited by Bat
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On ‎11‎.‎04‎.‎2017 at 9:06 AM, Bat said:

...it's much easier in Ninebot. Actually in Ninebot it's much easier to change the tyre as well.

That's my impression about the V8. Everything related to maintenance like usual tire change or battery swap seems like a chore... I don't understand how they even proclaimed it to be "quick'n'easy battery swap"...

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5 hours ago, Bat said:

And it's just one side to take off,

I don't follow, you have to take off both side covers as well as the middle cover rim, no?

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Posted (edited)

2 hours ago, Vik's said:

That's my impression about the V8. Everything related to maintenance like usual tire change or battery swap seems like a chore... I don't understand how they even proclaimed it to be "quick'n'easy battery swap"...

I only heard this when the prototype was announced, afterwards it was never mentioned again, IIRC. Where do you have this information from?

After all, the battery is swappable by a layman, I did it myself, but I really wouldn't recommend doing it on a regular basis or during a trip outside.

Edited by Mono
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1 hour ago, Mono said:

I only heard this when the prototype was announced, afterwards it was never mentioned again, IIRC. Where do you have this information from?

After all, the battery is swappable by a layman, I did it myself, but I really wouldn't recommend doing it on a regular basis or during a trip outside.

Yeah, must be those earlier rumors I've memorized. Still no V8 for me on the horizon, so my info could be outdated hehe :) 

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On 4/12/2017 at 4:02 AM, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I had to rewatch that video several times as strangely I was a little distracted.  :popcorn:  Was there an EUC in that video?  :whistling:

 

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Posted (edited)

17 hours ago, Mono said:

what do you exactly mean by wheel nuts? 

Ah! I misremembered that part. Each side is fastened to the inner shells with 4 screws. Remove those and the assembly slides right out. You don't touch the large wheel nuts attached to the axle at all.

Edited by TechShizzle
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Posted (edited)

16 hours ago, Bat said:

There is no easy way. What you've just described is the hardcore way and it actually voids the warranty. 

-Dont have the warranty info in front of me, but Jason's site says any "disassembly or repair" voids the warranty. Although that's not my area of the law, I believe that the warranty would only NOT cover the repair or replacement of anything you damaged while you're in there, but "fair repair" and "right to repair" laws are a bit murky right now. But this is just a semi-educated guess on my part, and I could be 100% wrong.

See here: https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/warranty-void-if-removed-stickers-are-illegal

You are afraid of unsticking some cheap LEDs, but you have no problem to remove the motherboard cover and risk messing something in it (I'm sure the manufacturers love this way), especially when the battery is still plugged in.

-Another poster in another thread has mentioned that his LED strips malfunctioned after removing them from the inner shells. Just struck me that they might be somewhat fragile.

Besides, you have to unplug crucial elements like the engine cable and take off both sides of the wheel. I can't see any advantages of this solution. The one on the video took me half an hour as well, without messing with any important parts like the motherboard or engine cords. Detaching the LEDs is easy-peasy, and like I said - I could reattach them better than it was done in the factory.

-The motor cable has 4 connections that came right off, and there was no confusing which cable went where. Wasn't any more difficult than replacing a graphics card on a PC. Glad you pointed out a possible issue with leaving the battery connected while doing this. Don't drop the screw driver on the motherboard and it isn't an issue, but a good reminder to be careful.

And it's just one side to take off, just like in Ninebot One E+. Sure, you can take off both sides of E+ including the motherboard (and ignoring the warning of voiding the warranty), to just replace a tyre, but why would you? 

Eh, to each his own. For me, I preferred removing the wheel and not having to remove the inner shell and mess with the LED strips.

 

IMG_0071.PNG

Edited by TechShizzle
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Posted (edited)

On 2017-4-13 at 10:00 PM, Mono said:

I don't follow, you have to take off both side covers as well as the middle cover rim, no?

Taking off the cover is super easy, but you don't need to take off the other side, unplug the motherboard etc. :-)

It's exactly the same like in Ninebot, so it's very intuitive for me - taking off one side only. Besides, unplugging the battery first makes it all feel more safe :-)

 

Quote

Eh, to each his own. For me, I preferred removing the wheel and not having to remove the inner shell and mess with the LED strips.

If that works for you. Like I said, there's no easy way to disassembly the V8. The Russian video you posted is a total mess - only disassembly without reassembly, and he takes of everything - including the LEDs.

 

Like I said - no manufacturer will endorse you to do anything with the motherboard on your own. To me it's easier to take off LEDs and do everything like in Ninebot. It would be funny to have to unplug something from the motherboard in Ninebot to change the tire. But unsticking the LEDs it's funny too. The duck-tape under the battery is a total joke.

They could just add some plugs at the LEDs endings to simply unplug them exactly like in Ninebot, and forget the duck-tape.

But except that it's a nice wheel.

 

On 2017-4-14 at 0:26 AM, Rehab1 said:

 

Hahaha. Poor girl, there are memes already! :-)

Edited by Bat
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@Bat sounds like you are having success with changing the tire and or tube, but in case you haven't already tried it, you may want to consider putting in "Tire Slime" into your new tube.  I got this recommendation from @Marty Backe and like him, I have had no problems since using it.  Here is a link to what I ordered.  I also used about 3-4 ounces in my tire:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9XYNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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