Rehab1

Gotway ACM 1600 Autopsy and Mods

594 posts in this topic

11 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

@KingSong69 had a question on the Mosfet attachmen

Really? ;-) Who ever it was...now he will be happy! :-)

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2 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

Really? ;-) Who ever it was...now he will be happy! :-)

:o not you? Ugh... oh well

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it looks wires are very tight in place. Make sure the exit edges of the shaft are not pushing on the cable. It will cut the insulation with vibration (possibly). I might try to wedge a piece of plastic to protect the cable from the edge.

Good Job.  Those are nice cables.  I guess next you can upgrade the MOS-IGBTs to higher current t0247's from Infineon.

And replace the batteries with an ARCK Reactor like Iron Man.

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Wow this is getting crazier by the day. Let's hope the wheel works when you put it all together. Realistically, that should no be a problem, but... still scary:thumbup:

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5 hours ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said:

it looks wires are very tight in place. Make sure the exit edges of the shaft are not pushing on the cable. It will cut the insulation with vibration (possibly). I might try to wedge a piece of plastic to protect the cable from the edge.

I would be very concerned about this.:oIt doesn't look like there is any room with the new wires for the spring or a plastic sleave to be inserted at the end of the shaft hole to protect the wire insulation from the sharp lip at the end of the axle.Puting silicone there would be useless and leaving it like it is means a short circuit for sure.I have seen this a thousand times.That is why I suggested in my earlier post to bevel the end with a larger drill bit or file or something.It would suck:( to have a short after all the time expended on the wire upgrades.

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6 hours ago, jrkline said:

I would be very concerned about this.:oIt doesn't look like there is any room with the new wires for the spring or a plastic sleave to be inserted at the end of the shaft hole to protect the wire insulation from the sharp lip at the end of the axle.Puting silicone there would be useless and leaving it like it is means a short circuit for sure.I have seen this a thousand times.That is why I suggested in my earlier post to bevel the end with a larger drill bit or file or something.It would suck:( to have a short after all the time expended on the wire upgrades.

A modified tapered grommet should work. There is more room than what appears. But just in case I am totally wrong about all of these mods you are more than welcome to be my first test pilot!:P 

 

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Posted (edited)

1 hour ago, jrkline said:

It's not that I think you're "totally wrong about all of these mods",I think the mods are great and thank you for sharing them with us on the forums.:)That is why I felt compelled to say something about the axle lip and the need to "take the edge off".I've seen too many shorts caused by sharp conduit edges and even though I knew I might come across as a "Debbie Downer",I would have felt like an:pooping: a$$hole if I didn't say something.The grommet should be fine if you can get it to fit, and I would then be the 1st.in line to be a test pilot because I know that you're wheel has the "Right Stuff".:cheers:

Thanks for your concerns! I felt them all the way to Michigan!:) 

Got it! It took a bit of thought. I tried a teflon material but it easily ripped so I came up with a very thin .005 poly plastic material that I was able to wrap around the wires and then slide the material down the shaft approximately 12mm to protect the wires from chafing. I still need to do the modification on the lower portion of the shaft. 

Silicone will them be applied over the cable tie followed by shrink wrap this afternoon.

 

Edited by Rehab1
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Oh wow, now there's a fan too! Do you think it will do much? I can't see too much effectiveness of the thing... on the other hand, since it's optional anyways...

You could go further and do full watercooling. Imagine the entire inside of the board compartment filled with non-conducting, heat conducting mineral oil (or whatever one uses for that), together with a nice heat exchanger part in the wall:P

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Posted (edited)

15 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Oh wow, now there's a fan too! Do you think it will do much? I can't see too much effectiveness of the thing... on the other hand, since it's optional anyways...

You could go further and do full watercooling. Imagine the entire inside of the board compartment filled with non-conducting, heat conducting mineral oil (or whatever one uses for that), together with a nice heat exchanger part in the wall:P

The fan should work with it beginning  ducted outside with air inlets at both ends of the shell.

As for the CPU hydro cooler ... it won't fit:crying:

 

Edited by Rehab1
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Also in question where you would put the actual cooler/heat exchanger part of the hydro cooler. No obvious place for that.

This is why I (non-seriously) proposed making the entire compartment watertight and filling it with some cooling liquid. If you're looking for even more of a challenge:D

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39 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

Thanks for your concerns! I felt them all the way to Michigan!:) 

Got it! It took a bit of thought. I tried a teflon material but it easily ripped so I came up with a very thin .005 poly plastic material that I was able to wrap around the wires and then slide the material down the shaft approximately 12mm to protect the wires from chafing. I still need to do the modification on the lower portion of the shaft. 

Silicone will them be applied over the cable tie followed by shrink wrap this afternoon.

 

XLNT! I'm now officially test pilot numero uno.:dribble:

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Just realized, that thin metal axle is the only thing transferring the torque from the motor to the wheel body (is it?). Scary if you ask me...

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24 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Just realized, that thin metal axle is the only thing transferring the torque from the motor to the wheel body (is it?). Scary if you ask me...

The more I learn the more I realize everything is a bit scary on these!

 

1 hour ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Oh wow, now there's a fan too! Do you think it will do much? I can't see too much effectiveness of the thing... on the other hand, since it's optional anyways..

 

Here is a simplistic diagram depicting how I am channeling the airflow from outside the shell to the exhaust fan! Both sides of the shell will have a ventilation grill to import the air for circulation. 

 

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Posted (edited)

1 hour ago, Rehab1 said:

The fan should work with it beginning  ducted outside with air inlets at both ends of the shell.

As for the CPU hydro cooler ... it won't fit:crying:

 

I say make it fit!  :furious:

hammer_PNG3885.png

Do you think incorporating thin layers of sponge under the air inlets would help waterproof the works?  I'd be concerned about any venting allowing water ingress, but it would have to get in pretty far to create problems for the control board.  Any considerations to pass IP65?  You never know when you might get accidentally caught in a rainstorm on a longer trip somewhere...

Edited by Hunka Hunka Burning Love
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28 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

The more I learn the more I realize everything is a bit scary on these!

I understand the @Marty Backe "statistical safety" approach better now - given the data, probably nothing will happen, so just have fun with the wheel.

Thanks for the flow info, I was somehow expecting the fan pushing the air over the board instead of pulling it.

I agree with @Hunka Hunka Burning Love, these air grates are quite a danger in case of rain, aren't they? Maybe side grates would be better?

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46 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

You never know when you might get accidentally caught in a rains

 

22 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

agree with @Hunka Hunka Burning Love, these air grates are quite a danger in case of rain, aren't they? Maybe side grates would be better?

I hate riding in the rain!!! If you must...the grills are steel so I will be fabricating magnetic covers that can easily be placed over the grills. Now going though massive puddles might be an issue. Did I mention I hate rain!:crying:

Here is a short video showing the plastic membrane I used for the wires exiting the axle. Very flexible and durable..,I hope! God my hands are a mess! 

 

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Posted (edited)

On 3/26/2017 at 3:21 PM, Rehab1 said:

Thanks! Sorry but changing out the Mosfets will void my warranty:laughbounce2: 

HAHAHAHAHA!!!!   Best line in this whole thread!!!! ;)

Edited by SuperSport
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Posted (edited)

I hate to keep bringing up issues but I feel this is a fairly large one. The heat shrink wrap covering up the splices for the hall sensors wires was never heated. The sheath easily slides right off the wires exposing them to the motor winding and axle hub. The 9 wires originating from the motor could converge down to 5 wires that are spliced as well. 

Video of shrink wrapped wires that were never  processed properly.  The wrap just slides off the wires easily.

 

Edited by Rehab1
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@Rehab1

Ok, could be done better, also.

But: When they were in the correct Position, isn't it that because of the g-Force when rolling they were never able to go to the inside/axle of the wheel???

 

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