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[one more GOTWAY WARNING] ACM died on a hill (it was bad cabling + high stress, final update pg 16)


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@Rehab1 I didn't know the ACMs had the vent hole too. I thought only the msupers V3 had that. Is it tight, any possible problems with rain/wet stuff getting to the electronics?

@EUCMania Good idea! The cables melted right where they were bent the most. So bent cables = be careful (or unbend them). Could very well be the reason they melted in this case (and would not have if the were straighter).

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5 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

They may be 17 AWG which is even worse!

I took 2 shorts videos of the so called 'Protective Heat Sleeve'. The sleeve is definitely not designed for high temperature which is troubling! 

In the first video I am cutting away the large protective sleeve covering the 3 motor wires to perform a flame test.. The 2nd video speaks volumes of the test!

 

 

like i said in a post before...this heat isolation is sometimes for a 120 degree celsius or up to 500 degree...but not and never flames....so this test is a bit overpowered:-)

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26 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

This is cool, but My God, you are really going at, disassembling your wheel to the extreme. 

My wheel? Have you checked in your garage lately:w00t2:

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2 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

like i said in a post before...this heat isolation is sometimes for a 120 degree celsius or up to 500 degree...but not and never flames....so this test is a bit overpowered:-)

Your are correct but I am like Tim Allen....more power! I need to change out the wires anyway so why experiment and do some rudimentary testing along the way.

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12 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

@Rehab1 I didn't know the ACMs had the vent hole too. I thought only the msupers V3 had that. Is it tight, any possible problems with rain/wet stuff getting to the electronics?

 

It is sealed with a rubber ring...water or rain are no problem!!!on the v3 and Acm the design of the heatsink is the same...and its a good design btw...wheels without heatsink to the air/wheel sometimes had overheat problems! 

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3 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

Your are correct but I am like Tim Allen....more power! I need to change out the wires anyway so why experiment and do some rudimentary testing along the way.

thats all cool and i am very interested in your modding!

but calling them useless is a bit of making more problems then there are....dont get me wrong...if these things are just a 120degree version...they are useless :-) still these insulations are not the main problem....

 

If i could only tell what i want to...my ;(>{<]]^\? english....

:-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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23 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

@Rehab1 I didn't know the ACMs had the vent hole too. I thought only the msupers V3 had that. Is it tight, any possible problems with rain/wet stuff getting to the electronics?

There is a rubber/ silicone gasket around the opening but there are areas that are not completely sealed where water could infiltrate. I would not drive mine during heavy rain or through puddles the way it currents sits.  I may make up some additional gaskets or use sealant for the weak zones.

 

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3 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

@Marty Backe Send me your ACM. I'm getting bored! 

 

:roflmao:

That, is a great picture. I sure hope you get it back together. I wonder if your warranty is still good :D

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10 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

:roflmao:

That, is a great picture. I sure hope you get it back together. I wonder if your warranty is still good :D

Warranty! Oh sh.t!:laughbounce2: I'm not concerned. I am wondering if Linnea would consider helping me reassemble it:facepalm:

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18 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

All I can say is that my Ninebot is NEVER coming over to visit your house or work EVER.  :shock2:

You don't like me :crying:

Actually it would make a great 1st prize;) 

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5 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

You don't like me :crying:

I don't like you taking apart a perfectly good, but slightly imperfect wheel!  Otherwise we like bros from another mother. 6b567c5d48.jpg :wub:

Now I gotta place bets on how many "extra" screws you will discover after reassembling the works.  :innocent1:  Gotta recoup my lost money from the MOSFETs bet.  :cry2:

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1 hour ago, Rehab1 said:

There is a rubber/ silicone gasket around the opening but there are areas that are not completely sealed where water could infiltrate. I would not drive mine during heavy rain or through puddles the way it currents sits.  I may make up some additional gaskets or use sealant for the weak zones.

 

This weak gasket is the enemy for those who rides in winter. The wheel collects a lot of snow under the hood. After 30 minutes there is so much snow inside that the wheel can't be rotated by hand. But it still can be ridden. The snow is so dense there so that it presses out the gasket and the heatsink into the controller board compartment. Then we have a swimming pool around the controller board.

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14 minutes ago, Radislav said:

This weak gasket is the enemy for those who rides in winter. The wheel collects a lot of snow under the hood. After 30 minutes there is so much snow inside that the wheel can't be rotated by hand. But it still can be ridden. The snow is so dense there so that it presses out the gasket and the heatsink into the controller board compartment. Then we have a swimming pool around the controller board.

I guess it doesn't snow in China, where they 'design' these things :huh:

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2 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

The cables melted right where they were bent the most. So bent cables = be careful (or unbend them). Could very well be the reason they melted in this case (and would not have if the were straighter).

As to me, it makes sense. When they bend a multi-stranded wire 180°, the surface of each strand gets micro cracks - outer strands stretch, inner strands squeeze. This is not dangerous for DC circuits. But we have AC current here with ≈8 kHz frequency. That's where the skin effect appears. Starting from 100 Hz, AC current prefers to go along the surface of the wire. The higher the frequency the more current goes near the surface. But hey - we have micro cracks along the surface! That's why the resistance increases where the wire is bent, together with the power loss and amount of heat.

But they don't know about a skin-effect in China :(

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21 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Now I gotta place bets on how many "extra" screws you will discover after reassembling the works.  :innocent1:  Gotta recoup my lost money from the MOSFETs bet.  :cry2:

You may win that bet!

 

13 minutes ago, Radislav said:

This weak gasket is the enemy for those who rides in winter. The wheel collects a lot of snow under the hood. After 30 minutes there is so much snow inside that the wheel can't be rotated by hand. But it still can be ridden. The snow is so dense there so that it presses out the gasket and the heatsink into the controller board compartment. Then we have a swimming pool around the controller board.

Ugh! The only time I ride in the snow is when I am blowing it around.

 

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10 hours ago, Xima Lhotz said:

 Yes, this it true, there might be some steps missing in testing.. :)

But even so, not doing the actual maximum heavy duty testing in real life i think its calculable within the required % for being (almost) failsafe. (Depending on the failsafe % margin you use)

Correct cables for the required current, connections being able to handle the current, correct mosfet for the power delivery, maximum temperature,  for example.

But i also completely agree, real world maximum testing until it breaks (this should never happen in the finished design) is always needed to understad the true nature of a design to find the problems that cant be calculated or predicted properly when its a finished product. Its not that difficult (to me)

It should be all in the package when buying an EUC. A customer expects more than is delivered. Saying this I adress the whole business,

A setup/ release should be derived from excessive bench and real world tests. An excessive declared intention to target quality and safety.

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9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

That is really interesting!

I estimate my ride length to 1400m which is less than a mile. The slopes also certainly weren't up to 30%. Also I think I'm less "donut" than you;) It was colder than your ride.

So the only difference is 67V vs 84V (or just bad luck?). If I had done it with a 67V ACM, or if the cables were stronger on my 84V, would I have just gotten a temperature warning and that's it?

That's really what I'm so unsure about: assuming you can fix the motor wires, could you trust the wheel then?

Yes I could trust the wheel then,I even trust it now without removing the motor connectors.I have put my wheel under extreme stresses of heat,hill climbing,tumbling down a 330ft.cliff etc. and that is all with the extra weight of 1360wh's of batteries and side boxes added.If my motor connectors were defective,I'm sure it would have revealed itself by now.And all of the defects people are experiencing such as yourself involve the motor connectors only,not the wires themselves or where they are soldered to the control board.So if you illiminate the motor connectors altogether,then you illiminate the source of all the reported failures!I

9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

I always thought the point of the GW sticker was so other people see it, and then they can pre-dial 911, get out their first aid kits, etc in advance:P Good Attitude!

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3 minutes ago, jrkline said:

Yes I could trust the wheel then,I even trust it now without removing the motor connectors.I have put my wheel under extreme stresses of heat,hill climbing,tumbling down a 330ft.cliff etc. and that is all with the extra weight of 1360wh's of batteries and side boxes added.If my motor connectors were defective,I'm sure it would have revealed itself by now.And all of the defects people are experiencing such as yourself involve the motor connectors only,not the wires themselves or where they are soldered to the control board.So if you illiminate the motor connectors altogether,then you illiminate the source of all the reported failures!I

@jrkline, you probably haven't read this entire thread (that could take a day or so), but @meepmeepmayer's failure turned out to be melted cables. Had nothing to do with the connectors. There are pictures above in the thread.

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11 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

@jrkline, you probably haven't read this entire thread (that could take a day or so), but @meepmeepmayer's failure turned out to be melted cables. Had nothing to do with the connectors. There are pictures above in the thread.

I've seen the pics.I'm just speculating that high resistance at one or more of his connectors created enough heat at the point where the wires were pinched or bunched together causing the insulation compromise resulting in the short between the wires.Of course it could also be that one or more of the wires had the insulation compromised which led to an arc fault and the connectors had no impact whatsoever.I would be very curious to know if any of the connectors on his wheel exibit abnormal resistance and thus possibly leading to the fault.^_^

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