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Rusted footplate?


Gormash

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The past two weeks one of the footplates on my NB1e+ has been really hard to fold up and down. I used to be able to do it with a slight touch of my foot, but now there's real resistance and I have to bend down and do it with my hand, and have to put some muscle into it as well.

I decided to give the wheel a spring cleanup, so I filled up the tire and gave it a wash before I started on the pedals. I unscrewed the little hold-nut (or whatever that thing is called) and tried to push out the bar that hold the pedals in place... and nothing. No movement at all. I placed a screwdriver against the end of the bar and gave it a thorough whack with a rubber mallet. Not even a millimeter of movement.
That's when I broke out the CRC 5-56 and gave it a liberal coating, then opened and closed the pedals several times before letting it rest for a while. After half an hour I tried dislodging the bar again, but no joy.

The footplate itself is moving, as is the grommits. It seems the bar is stuck to the alluminium thingamajig that protrudes from the wheel. I suspect it has rusted shut inside there.
Any ideas how I can get that bar out so I can give it a thorough cleaning and some grease?

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What you are trying is probably the best route. Heat can also help, but next to all the rubber and plastic, that might be dangerous. 

Soak it more and keep working it carefully as to not bend the bracket when you are bumping it. 

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Like SS said, if you have a heat gun you could maybe carefully warm up the hinge and pedal areas while being careful not to melt the plastics to try to get some expansion.  Figure out a good spot to brace the pedal against (might need some help to hold it), and use a metal hammer to whack a rod against the pedal rod to get it free.  The rubber mallet might not be cutting it as I think you might need more of a jarring force to help displace the rod.  The key is to support the pedal somehow so it will resist the hammering force allowing the pin to move.  You could try a cinderblock or something solid to brace against, but make sure there is some protection against scratching off the powdercoat on the pedal.  Good luck!

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Hi. Except the bolt from the side of the pedal, there is a small fixing bolt 

It is positioned at the middle of the pedal, from the under side. You will need alien wrench, 2 or 3 millimetres. You have to slack it 3-4 turns, no need to remove. I hope this will help 

Sorry, I red your post again. 

I suggest that both plugs and plastic pieces from the sides are removed. 

If the fixing bolt is removed already, spray some lubricant, WD-40, CRC 5-56 or similar, in the hole for the bolt and wait a hour. After that insert fwo plastic pieces in one hole (if there is not room for two, insert only one first) for the side plug, screw in one plug and try to move the shaft, tightening moderately, not to damage the thread 

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This is up my alley. I agree with @SuperSport that heat can be a miracle worker to free up rusted parts. You should place an asbestos blanket or metal plate next to your wheel's plastic housing and tire to act as a heat shield. A blown torch would work for focusing the heat on the area and also to obtain the necessary temperature to expand the metal. If you were near by I would gladly give you a hand!

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12 hours ago, Ch.Eng.62 said:

..

. After that insert fwo plastic pieces in one hole (if there is not room for two, insert only one first) for the side plug, screw in one plug and try to move the shaft, tightening moderately, not to damage the thread 

Um... You lost me there.What kind of plastic pieces? Screw in one plug? What plug, and where?  o_O

 

 

10 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

A blown torch would work for focusing the heat on the area and also to obtain the necessary temperature to expand the metal. If you were near by I would gladly give you a hand!

Probably a good idea, but I own neither an asbestos sheet nor a blowtorch. The closest I come is a roll of aluminium foil and a hairdryer. ^_^
And thanks for being willing to help, but I suspect traveling to Norway is a bit too far.  :P

 

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Just now, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

He can film the progress with his new DJI Mavic Pro as well!

LOL! That would probably NOT he very helpful. Imagine trying to dodge the rotors of a drone comming in for some detail shots. ^_^

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2 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

This calls for a EUC roadtrip!  :dribble:  Maybe @Vik's can lend you a hand?  He can film the progress with his new DJI Mavic Pro as well!

 

Sounds like a fun trip! Unfortunately my Gulfstream is in for annual maintenance.  :P

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On ‎15‎.‎03‎.‎2017 at 7:41 PM, Gormash said:

The footplate itself is moving, as is the grommits. It seems the bar is stuck to the alluminium thingamajig that protrudes from the wheel. I suspect it has rusted shut inside there.
Any ideas how I can get that bar out so I can give it a thorough cleaning and some grease?

You're not alone with this on 9b1, quite a few examples of that around the world. I was afraid to get this problem on mine so I took the pedals off in wintertime and sprayed them with dry lube. The problem area is exactly there you describing it - the middle of the bar rusting shut inside the aluminium arm.

As already mentioned by others, your best is to warm it up to ca. 50-60 degrees and then cool it down with some freeze spray (like http://www.biltema.no/no/Bilpleie/Fett-og-smoremiddel/Hurtigrustloser-2000019607/) before trying to yank the bar out.

Give it some time, take a coffee break and try again.

12 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

This calls for a EUC roadtrip!  :dribble:  Maybe @Vik's can lend you a hand?  He can film the progress with his new DJI Mavic Pro as well!

I would gladly help if it wasn't for over 600 miles roundtrip...

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Hi, I also had this problem and managed to get the bar out by using WD40 and wacking it out with a hammer - try hitting from one end and then the other, nut make sure you hit straight. On another occasion I manged to bend the bar slightly - again this was removed using brute force.

I added removing each bar every few weeks to my routine maintenance/inspection schedule (I swap my pedals over regularly as they get worn down from practicing spinning and tight turns).

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  • 1 year later...

Hi

How did you in the end solve this? The footplate bar of my Ninebot One E+ is not coming out. WD-40 and hammering it (brute force) did not solve my problem. I was now planning to cut the bar with a Dremel and hope that the part where it is stuck (in the alu part) will also come loose. If not I was thinking about using a metal drill to remove it completely.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

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2 hours ago, drievana said:

Hi

How did you in the end solve this? The footplate bar of my Ninebot One E+ is not coming out. WD-40 and hammering it (brute force) did not solve my problem. I was now planning to cut the bar with a Dremel and hope that the part where it is stuck (in the alu part) will also come loose. If not I was thinking about using a metal drill to remove it completely.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

Try some CRC Freeze Off. Great stuff and works every time. I prefer this over WD-40. Soak the middle part of the bar for a good 5 minutes and hammer the bar out. The problem is that the bar could be bent so it's not just rust that holding it...

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Hi,

I was finally able to remove the footplate.

  • WD-40 and hammering extensively did not work
  • A CRC Freeze off a-like product (loctite freeze) did not work either

So I decided to cut the footplate bar with a Dremel to be able to remove the footplate, then I removed the body of the Ninebot on that side to free up the aluminum bit. Unscrewed the aluminum bit from the wheel where part of the footplate bar was still stuck in. Then heated the alu bit with a heatgun alternated with hammering on the piece of the footplate bar that was still stuck in the alu bit..

It took me quite a while to eventually get it out and have the footplate bar replaced.

So, I will also include removing the footplate bar as part of the monthly cleaning ritual to prevent this from happening in the future.

 

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