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Energy efficiency Wh per km or per miles


hobby16

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Here are some energy data on my Firewheel 16".

The rule of thumb is 12Wh/km or 19Wh/mile. At lower speeds, it should be possible to get 10Wh/km. With a 130Wh battery, expect to get 11km range. With a 170Wh battery, expect less than 10 miles.

There is a mean speed of about 22km/h over a distance of 20km with stops, intersection crossing, slowdowns... so my cruise speed is over 25km/h. Firewheel rocks !
 


Firewheel_mileage.png

Wheel = 13.6kg, rider = 65kg, total = around 80kg. Tyre pressure = 3 bar.
Mean speed (km/h) and distance (km) measured by a "Sunding" bike computer. Energy (Wh) measured by Charge Doctor.

DSCN1442.jpg

Original data here, if you want to convert to other metrics (miles per 1kWh...).
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1MsuAMM87v9bv4sZ-I58M3dmKV1Iq0hnA0cyzTZ5mwkI/edit?usp=sharing

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Unfortunately, I haven't recorded my average speed when I put down the ranges I've got, plus I don't know how much Wh the battery currently charges from empty to full... But going by 260Wh, they would be following:
+9 Celsius, strong winds (10-11m/s): 264Wh / 18.25km = 14.47Wh/km
+14 Celsius, light winds (2-3m/s): 264Wh / 23.1km = 11.43Wh/km
+19 Celsius, light winds (2-4m/s): 264Wh / 25.8km = 10.23Wh/km

But of course that's only three datapoints, no average speeds, and the first one was in somewhat exceptional conditions (nearly storm winds). Rider weight 57kg, maybe around 60kg with safety gear.

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Indeed, the variance is due to variable wind conditions, and traffic density too probably. I have also inflated the wheel once somewhere in the middle of the series so another variance factor. I am not a regular commuter, I use so many different itineraries for my job and outside the job that it's not easy to take measurements in fixed conditions.

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.

@esaj

I had the infamous BMS cutoff after 21km from full charge (I remember well the number since the bike computer had taken a severe hit in the crash, that's why I had devised a flexible holder), after an exhilirating ride at speeds over 25km/h. I miraculously got out with minor scratches because the cutoff occured just when I was slowing down and taking a smooth surface lane. I rethink very often of that moment with sheer horror, about what would happen had the cutoff occured at full speed, because it would inevitably happen, without any warning or tilt-back whatsoever. An Angel must be above the wheel that day, thanks God. Well, that's is to say that with the shunt, I can ride up to 23km from full charge, so it adds 10% more range while letting you gracefully climb down at lo bat instead of a brutal cutoff, what not to like :rolleyes:

BTW, your capacity  of 260 Wh is an estimation from the nameplate capacity. For Firewheels, it's probably an under-estimation since I can routinely charge up to 285Wh. For others, it would be an over-estimation since sellers have the tendency of cheating (Gotway, generic X3). Thus the wide ranging (and confusing) estimates of Wh/km. The only way to know for sure is to measure.

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BTW, your capacity  of 260 Wh is an estimation from the nameplate capacity. For Firewheels, it's probably an under-estimation since I can routinely charge up to 285Wh. For others, it would be an over-estimation since sellers have the tendency of cheating (Gotway, generic X3). Thus the wide ranging (and confusing) estimates of Wh/km. The only way to know for sure is to measure.

Yeah, I've been meaning to order a Charge Doctor from you, but haven't gotten around to actually do it... :rolleyes:  Plus while I do have a Paypal account, there isn't any money in it. I was once going to use it, but then found out that the "immediate" transfer works over 3rd party service, that requires your banking username and passwords, which is a big NO. Not only is it very suspicious, and I would never give my account info to any outside service, also it breaks the terms of service between me and my bank (the terms clearly state you shall never hand over your credentials to anyone, people have had their online-accounts closed due to that). So it would have to be international wire transfer between banks, or I'd have to first wire the money to Paypal over the slower method of wire transfer to somewhere like Germany and then transfer it to you...

But I probably should kick myself in the butt and just do something about it, especially since I'm going to get the custom-packs, and it would be pretty useful to know the real Wh-capacity, not that I suspect they wouldn't deliver what was agreed (btw, I just got message today that the Panasonic cells were out of stock, so likely going with LG MH1's, 3200mAh, 10A continuous, 20A pulse).

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