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mounting bicycle lock to MiniPro


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Just how far is the trip you want to do?  Have you considered just using a portable charging solution?  I don't understand the potential gain from carrying a second MiniPro.  The batteries do not need to be attached to the MiniPro in order to charge. 

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2 hours ago, RooMiniPro said:

Just how far is the trip you want to do?  Have you considered just using a portable charging solution?  I don't understand the potential gain from carrying a second MiniPro.  The batteries do not need to be attached to the MiniPro in order to charge. 

I just returned from touring the lakefront and riverwalk in Milwaukee.

What helped tremendously was stopping at Colectivo restaurant on the lakefront for breakfast and charging both of our MiniPros outdoors.  The weather was great and so was the food and so was the courtesies of charging up.

Prior to charging, we may have gone 13+ miles.  We ate breakfast, and we had each battery charged up to almost at capacity and when we rode for another 10 miles.

That's the kind of satisfying experience that I would like to have more often.

Living on Chicago's Lakefront with about 20+ miles of bicycle paths exceeds the 15 miles limitations of the MiniPro.  I estimate that I would need a battery capacity of 40+ miles to include the return trip.

Having charging stations along the route would alleviate this concern.  An experience, like I had at Colectivo, is fine until someday I could obtain a longer ranged battery solution.  There apparently are no visible or accessible power plugs to charge a battery on Chicago's lakefront.

Carrying extra batteries seem to be the only feasible solution at this time.

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I regularly do a 32km round trip using my portable charging solution.  I carry two very compact lipo batteries in a backpack and a very small DIY charger.  This setup gives me enough power to do at least 50km with very little extra weight and even less bulk.  If you brought a spare MiniPro battery and a portable charging setup similar to mine you could probably get over 70km quite easily.  For me though, my feet are tired enough after 50km of riding in a day. 

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2 minutes ago, RooMiniPro said:

I regularly do a 32km round trip using my portable charging solution.  I carry two very compact lipo batteries in a backpack and a very small DIY charger.  This setup gives me enough power to do at least 50km with very little extra weight and even less bulk.  If you brought a spare MiniPro battery and a portable charging setup similar to mine you could probably get over 70km quite easily.  For me though, my feet are tired enough after 50km of riding in a day. 

How could I get the DIY charger?

I would like the 70km range as an option.

I have not ridden far enough to get tired feet.  Although, I will sit at different stages.

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37 minutes ago, Rocky Romero said:

How could I get the DIY charger?

I would like the 70km range as an option.

I have not ridden far enough to get tired feet.  Although, I will sit at different stages.

This is what I did:

 

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1 hour ago, Rocky Romero said:

Perfect.

I had not seen this before.

I have an extra MiniPro battery.

What else would I need?

A step up voltage converter (boost converter) is what does the work.  Mine was about $35.  https://www.amazon.ca/Converter-Transformer-Regulator-Controller-Regulated/dp/B00E8D7XYG/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QD04HA6X5PMMPH80KRFG

In the USA they are cheaper.  I also have a watt meter fitted to my box but if you only use yours to charge the MiniPro and nothing else it's not really necessary, as once you have correctly set the max voltage and max current (with a multimeter) to suit the MiniPro, you shouldn't have to adjust it again.  I do recommend it though, just so you can keep an eye on the output when charging.  I use mine for the MiniPro, the unicycle and various other things I want to charge so I need the watt meter in order to adjust the output for the given device. 

You will also need a battery.  I used 10AH lipo cells to make some slim packs up.  Basically, the boost converter will take power from any battery at 12-60v and step it up to the required voltage (80v max) at a max current of 12 amps.  Set the current limit to 2 amps for the MiniPro and the voltage to 61V (this is a few volts over the stock MiniPro charger but it charges the battery to its true 100% capacity (instead of just 80% as with the stock charger) and gives about 8km more range (for my weight).

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1 minute ago, RooMiniPro said:

A step up voltage converter (boost converter) is what does the work.  Mine was about $35.  https://www.amazon.ca/Converter-Transformer-Regulator-Controller-Regulated/dp/B00E8D7XYG/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QD04HA6X5PMMPH80KRFG

In the USA they are cheaper.  I also have a watt meter fitted to my box but if you only use yours to charge the MiniPro and nothing else it's not really necessary, as once you have correctly set the max voltage and max current (with a multimeter) to suit the MiniPro, you shouldn't have to adjust it again.  I do recommend it though, just so you can keep an eye on the output when charging.  I use mine for the MiniPro, the unicycle and various other things I want to charge so I need the watt meter in order to adjust the output for the given device. 

You will also need a battery.  I used 10AH lipo cells to make some slim packs up.  Basically, the boost converter will take power from any battery at 12-60v and step it up to the required voltage (80v max) at a max current of 12 amps.  Set the current limit to 2 amps for the MiniPro and the voltage to 61V (this is a few volts over the stock MiniPro charger but it charges the battery to its true 100% capacity (instead of just 80% as with the stock charger) and gives about 8km more range (for my weight).

Thanks for your thoughts, feedback and instructions.

I will test out my current situation with backup batteries & determine how to proceed from there.

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I get the feeling that one or two kicks would break the lock off the steering bar quite easily.  But it's better than nothing at all. 

 

Another idea would be to drill a hole and fit an eye bolt like the photo below, either on the red steering bar part or somewhere else on the frame, with a nut on the other side to secure it.  This would allow a thicker cable lock or chain and padlock to be used.  It could even just be screwed in with some loctite thread-lock as a replacement for one of the two nuts that hold the red part on, although this option would be less secure as it could be unscrewed with enough force to break the Loctite.

Machinery-Eye-Bolt.jpg[/img]

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18 minutes ago, RooMiniPro said:

I get the feeling that one or two kicks would break the lock off the steering bar quite easily.  But it's better than nothing at all. 

 

Another idea would be to drill a hole and fit an eye bolt like the photo below, either on the red steering bar part or somewhere else on the frame, with a nut on the other side to secure it.  This would allow a thicker cable lock or chain and padlock to be used.  It could even just be screwed in with some loctite thread-lock as a replacement for one of the two nuts that hold the red part on, although this option would be less secure as it could be unscrewed with enough force to break the Loctite.

Machinery-Eye-Bolt.jpg[/img]

At the end you must think that mini pro is cheaper than many bikes, and there are no perfect solutions for them, so don't expect it for Mini.

you must lock your mini pro to avoid people to use it in your absence or rob it without any efford, but you can be sure that if someone really want to rob it, he will do. We only try to make it as difficult as we can.

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You have to consider weight and convenience.  I've said many times, the lock is far from secure, but I'm not leaving it in very risky areas.  If someone wants it bad enough they will get it no matter what.  The solution works very well for me.

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10 hours ago, FreeRide said:

You have to consider weight and convenience.  I've said many times, the lock is far from secure, but I'm not leaving it in very risky areas.  If someone wants it bad enough they will get it no matter what.  The solution works very well for me.

Agreed.

The best that I can expect is an inconvenience for the average person.

Helping honest people to stay honest.

A lock says clearly that it's not free to anyone.

That means you Mr. Opportunist, "I'll take it home & figure out what this is."

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  • 11 months later...

I bought one of these locks and am Looking forward to to using it here and there when I need to run into a store or something and don’t want to drag the Mini around with me. 

 

Just need to to locate a drill!  Ha. 

 

I am surprised they don’t have something that accomplishes this from them directly without drilling. Seems like a no brainer.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok the easiest solution is having one 'tight' loop fairly heavy cable around the base and one loop (can be lighter cable) to go through the handles and then a length of cable to run around whatever pole/tree...the lock has to link the base loop ends and the 'tree' cable which also could be the same as 'handle loop' cable if long enough...

Damn it, I forgot only the Asian mini had the loop type handle, the pro doesn't, can't secure the pro arm besides taking it off and taking it with you...

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10 hours ago, David R McMullen Jr. said:

Check this lock out; it goes into the outer lock, inside the inner lock... Expands to secure lock and has a swivel on the outside of the main lock to rotate...

NO DRILLING REQUIRED! :ph34r:

YOUR WELCOME!

Kensington Nano Saver - K64444WW

41WAp7D2HEL._AC_SY400_.jpg

Video:

Video <------ CLICK HERE TO SEE

Like this so far.

 

Where does it connect on the MiniPro?

 

Have a pic?

 

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