Gunthor Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 @Maestro72x, it surely is - I've put everything I wore yesterday into my cellar and had a dehumidifier running for 8 hours. My shoes are still a bit wet - but all the other gear dried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 You need this: And wire this up to your wheel with a readout: http://www.instructables.com/id/Measuring-water-level-with-ultrasonic-sensor/?ALLSTEPS and maybe this just in case : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goh Weai Peng Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 On 2 June 2016 at 11:16 PM, Jason McNeil said: Sorry for my reticence, trying to do a bit of project catch-up... Quick update: getting a replacement control-board from KS, but I think @Chriull is spot on (as usual). My Wheel was of the 16A variety, which for some reason, is completely incompatible with the 16B firmware... As of v1.20, KS removed the 16A update choice, probably because these are such a small handful of units out there. Hi Jason, i had a similar issue while upgrading from 1.15 to 1.20 the upgrading status bar keep progress through midway and then reset by itself. Finally manage to upgrade the firmware to 1.20v now my wheel are responding in a crazy manner. when turn on, the wheel will spin furiously forward and follow by 2 beeps About 5 secs later, it will spin backwards and beep twice then forward spin follow by beep twice this go on for 4-5 times then it will stop once stop, the lights and Bluetooth is ok. But the wheel will not have any traction, like a lifeless machine with lights on please help as I only played this new wheel for 15 secs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason McNeil Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 4 hours ago, Goh Weai Peng said: i had a similar issue while upgrading from 1.15 to 1.20 Judging from the description you give it sounds a bit different. Were you presented with a choice of different type of Wheel firmware to install? How old is your Wheel? Have you contacted the agent who sold it to you? Can you try reapplying the firmware? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DS Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 4 hours ago, Goh Weai Peng said: when turn on, the wheel will spin furiously forward and follow by 2 beeps About 5 secs later, it will spin backwards and beep twice Sounds like the wheel is acting in lift up mode, which is more or less normal behavior. 4 hours ago, Goh Weai Peng said: once stop, the lights and Bluetooth is ok. But the wheel will not have any traction, like a lifeless machine with lights on This is what happens after the wheel turns off after free spin in the air (lift up test). Again, nothing wrong. Try to move the wheel on the ground (the tire on the pavement) forward and backwards holding it by hand to see what happens. If seems good, then try to ride it slowly and careful at the beginning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goh Weai Peng Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 4 hours ago, Jason McNeil said: Judging from the description you give it sounds a bit different. Were you presented with a choice of different type of Wheel firmware to install? How old is your Wheel? Have you contacted the agent who sold it to you? Can you try reapplying the firmware? @Jason McNeil I was presented with a list of firmware such as KS16A/16B/16CAs the box for my KS show as 16A, therefore I just pick 16A. I read on another thread and realize this problem was cause by an updating of wrong firmware version. wheel is 1 month old haven't got the chance to contact the agent as the problem occur last night. Not able to reapply as the apps show 1.20V and not able to choose another firmware. Not sure if KS can release a new firmware ASAP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goh Weai Peng Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 5 hours ago, DS said: Sounds like the wheel is acting in lift up mode, which is more or less normal behavior. This is what happens after the wheel turns off after free spin in the air (lift up test). Again, nothing wrong. Try to move the wheel on the ground (the tire on the pavement) forward and backwards holding it by hand to see what happens. If seems good, then try to ride it slowly and careful at the beginning. @DSnot able to ride at all as there isn't any gyroscope feature to hold the wheel upright. As mention, the wheel is lifeless with lights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DS Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 12 hours ago, Goh Weai Peng said: there isn't any gyroscope feature to hold the wheel upright. As mention, the wheel is lifeless with lights In this case, I would contact the reseller for further instructions. The wheel warranty should cover such a firmware upload failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 On 13.4.2016 at 0:59 AM, Keith said: BTW, I cannot hear any sound at all (or it is a frequency above my 60 year old range) on my KS-14C, it has always amazed me just how quiet it is. http://www.ultrasonic-ringtones.com/ I can just heard 12kHz. I'm 53 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 On 15.4.2016 at 3:40 AM, StreetMeatNYC said: Anyone else think some of this info should be pinned? Inverter give that kind of noise. Where it stand, in motherboard? I ques motherboard cover should should insulate first. http://www.nkgroup.co.uk/ It's sprayed insulates too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 1 hour ago, Paul Kivistö said: Inverter give that kind of noise. Where it stand, in motherboard? I ques motherboard cover should should insulate first. http://www.nkgroup.co.uk/ It's sprayed insulates too. I could be wrong, but I don't think there are inverters in the wheel mainboards (there's likely a buck-converter to drop the battery voltage into whatever the CPU etc. use, 5V or 3.3V?), the batteries give out DC-voltage and the motor is driven with DC-voltage (using three half-bridges), no need for AC anywhere AFAIK (of course the motor produces a back-EMF that's more like AC?). Gunthor had managed to record the noise spectrums from the KS16, the best guess so far is that things resonate with the PWM-frequency (around 6kHz?) used to drive the mosfets: Spikes around 6kHz + higher harmonics, probably around 12kHz and 18kHz, although someone mentioned 16kHz somewhere? Maybe that was just a misread of the log-scale or the fundamental was closer to 5-5.5kHz or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 On 7.5.2016 at 1:53 PM, Addwyn said: @SlowMo, Yes, it could ! But as my wheel works absolutely normally otherwise and therefore there is no visible sign to permit to distinguish a defective mainboard from a well working mainboard, the problem would remain exactly the same for all of you : You can not know if you also have a "defective mainboard" or not ! So the risk stay present ... Personally I think your assumption is something like "please, make my wish to be the reality" That would be great if that was so simple. But I'm not concince that this is the reality. Hmm, if there is worse connect somewhere..at anywhere. It can make that cuts, just sometimes..perhaps tomorrow:( sad. Take a heat cam. I have Flir One what connect to mobile phone. It's not so expensive..250 € perhaps now. Then drive your wheels warm, open motherboard cover, take a picture. So look do there are any hot point. It can be on the mother board or at any important wire connect, try to look. Hot points mean poor connect or trouble with component. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scatcat Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Ultrasonic Hearing Test Result You are an easily repelled teenager The mosquito device was made for the likes of you. You are probably begging to make the noise stop! I'm 50, and heard 18,8 kHz through the MacBook Pro, but very weak. I think the speakers fade off quickly over 16kHz or something like that. When I was in my 20s I regularly got annoyed by automatic doors... I measured my hearing to 22kHz on my right and 24kHz on my left ear then, now I guess I've lost some range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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