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Charging a Ninebot One while riding


Rotator

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2 hours ago, Chriull said:

If you are dedicated, 560 Wh should be possible

Yeah, I really like what he's doing there.  I wonder how it's coming along.  How's he getting the BMS to work, etc...

Ok, now that I've spent a little time inside, I can clearly see it would be hard to move the Motherboard.  It's larger than the one in my TG, and I just don't see anywhere that would work better.  Also, stacking another battery on top of it would be hard to do, and would also cause the MB to gain heat (Already an issue without more heat).  There's a Slight possibility of stacking another battery on top of the first one and extending the battery cover (Probably extending both sides to make feel even), but the only issue would be added heat with both stacked in there.

In the end, I think it will need to be an external battery pack plugged into the OEM Charging port as shown in the Chinese Video floating around, or carry an additional battery you can replace half way through your ride.  I've decided to go the second route.

I'm currently in the middle of modding the Battery Cover with Neodymium Magnets so I can quick change the battery while in a ride.  These magnets are plenty strong to hold the cover in place.  I'll probably also wedge a piece of White Plastic into the bottom of the cover like @logos122 has done with cardboard just to be safe.

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SuperSport - thanks for sharing your logic and eventual decision.  I ended up in the same place and bought another battery for my E+ and a separate charge cable (which attaches to the top of the NB1) so I  don't have to swap out the batteries in the EUC to charge both.  Works well for me - used Velcro to secure batteries for easy removal (rather than the double sided sticky pads).  I like my battery secured/stuck to the shell so it doesn't bump around but know some folks don't.

 

image.jpeg

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I saw your mod and like that a lot.  I'll figure out the charging method after I've got the trap door set.

It's coming along nicely right now.  The magnets are stronger than I expected, so I won't need to wedge anything under the edge of the door.  Due to the strength, I added a strap to pull it open when needed.  I will also be adding Velcro to the batteries attaching them to the body of the wheel so I'm not relying solely on the door to hold them in.

I'll post a new thread with the mod when I'm done in case anyone else wants to tackle it.  I'm looking forward to having 30 miles of range like the Big Boys! :D  Of course I'll need to stop for a moment to swap and then try to catch back up....  :huh:

StrapMagnets.JPG.c178408ae22cfb4457008e6

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On February 27, 2016 at 2:11 PM, SuperSport said:

Yeah, I really like what he's doing there.  I wonder how it's coming along.  How's he getting the BMS to work, etc...

Ok, now that I've spent a little time inside, I can clearly see it would be hard to move the Motherboard.  It's larger than the one in my TG, and I just don't see anywhere that would work better.  Also, stacking another battery on top of it would be hard to do, and would also cause the MB to gain heat (Already an issue without more heat).  There's a Slight possibility of stacking another battery on top of the first one and extending the battery cover (Probably extending both sides to make feel even), but the only issue would be added heat with both stacked in there.

In the end, I think it will need to be an external battery pack plugged into the OEM Charging port as shown in the Chinese Video floating around, or carry an additional battery you can replace half way through your ride.  I've decided to go the second route.

I'm currently in the middle of modding the Battery Cover with Neodymium Magnets so I can quick change the battery while in a ride.  These magnets are plenty strong to hold the cover in place.  I'll probably also wedge a piece of White Plastic into the bottom of the cover like @logos122 has done with cardboard just to be safe.

Yeah a tight piece at the bottom actually is pretty important to keep it in place esp if you drop the EUC or something. If you cut the piece that held the screws in, cut it at a slight angle to give you some extra contact with the lights when you push the battery cover up with the cardboard/white plastic at the bottom. 

I didn't use Neodymium magnets though.

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On 2/23/2016 at 5:52 PM, Vanquiz said:

@johrhoj Thanks for the video, I posted a comment there asking what did they use to recharge while riding the bots. At least it's good to know the option is doable, even though I personally doubt I'll use that, if somehow there's an accident or slip happened and the cable still attached to the bot, most likely it will ruin the charging port I think, unless there's a magnetic mod or something that will detach the cable immediately when such accident occurs.

Did you ever get a response from them?  I'm about to make a change on mine and was wondering what they were using.

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  • 8 months later...

This is just to let you know I have succesfully used two methods to improve my 9b1 range.

First: From several months ago until today, I have used a ebike li-ion 36V battery through a DC-DC converter, set at 62V Max & 2A Max, and connected to the charge port while riding. It works like a charm. Because my 240w internal battery have 6000km, it have lost a lot of watts and this setup helps a lot on the range side. But not at all with the current it can handle, which is very low (the battery has slowly developed a high internal resistance since about 4000km). I must ride in the uphills very slowly, and I can overlean easily. The 9b1 battery have lost a lot of power.

Second: Since last week I have replaced my internal 240w battery (due to the long usage that I have explained before), now I have a 388w internal battery and the older 240w (150w really now) external battery which can be connected to the charge port to extend the range more. I have used a 12v 50w halogen MR16 bulb to limit the current inserted between the battery and the wire to the charge port. Between 1 or 2 amps only steals from  0.5 to 5 watts and does not light or it does very low. The good news is that it allows to connect a full external battery to an empty internal battery. If I do this, the current would go up until 4 amps. This would cause to loose 12V at the bulb, reducing the voltage in the charge port  to the empty internal voltage (51v). Then the current would go down and voltage at the charge port would go up and eventually would balance in between.

Thanks to all for your help.

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  • 5 months later...
On ‎09‎.‎11‎.‎2016 at 1:54 PM, Rotator said:

This is just to let you know I have succesfully used two methods to improve my 9b1 range.

First: From several months ago until today, I have used a ebike li-ion 36V battery through a DC-DC converter, set at 62V Max & 2A Max, and connected to the charge port while riding. It works like a charm. Because my 240w internal battery have 6000km, it have lost a lot of watts and this setup helps a lot on the range side. But not at all with the current it can handle, which is very low (the battery has slowly developed a high internal resistance since about 4000km). I must ride in the uphills very slowly, and I can overlean easily. The 9b1 battery have lost a lot of power.

Second: Since last week I have replaced my internal 240w battery (due to the long usage that I have explained before), now I have a 388w internal battery and the older 240w (150w really now) external battery which can be connected to the charge port to extend the range more. I have used a 12v 50w halogen MR16 bulb to limit the current inserted between the battery and the wire to the charge port. Between 1 or 2 amps only steals from  0.5 to 5 watts and does not light or it does very low. The good news is that it allows to connect a full external battery to an empty internal battery. If I do this, the current would go up until 4 amps. This would cause to loose 12V at the bulb, reducing the voltage in the charge port  to the empty internal voltage (51v). Then the current would go down and voltage at the charge port would go up and eventually would balance in between.

Thanks to all for your help.c

Why  you dont use dc-dc step-up converter now? I dont understand. Converter needs only 2 volts difference to work.

I thought you were using this converter .600 w DC-DC step-up 10-60 V to 12-80 V

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On ‎14‎-‎04‎-‎2017 at 1:02 AM, devnull said:

Why  you dont use dc-dc step-up converter now? I dont understand. Converter needs only 2 volts difference to work.

I thought you were using this converter .600 w DC-DC step-up 10-60 V to 12-80 V

I have used the DC-DC converter only for batteries with different number of cells. This is the only way to use a 36V battery with the ninebot one.

But, if I use a ninebot one external battery, then I can avoid a DC-DC converter (which is big, very hot and not very efficient: 70 to 80%).

So basically, I do not use a DC-DC converter for the second setup I have described before, because I can directly connect the battery into the charge port. The only caution you must have into account, is to add a bulb, in order to balance any voltage difference you could have.

If planned (external battery connected with both batteries full) even the bulb would not be necessary.

 

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On 2/22/2016 at 6:52 PM, Vanquiz said:

@johrhoj Thanks for the video, I posted a comment there asking what did they use to recharge while riding the bots.

Interesting concept.  The credits say that they made two recharging stops at restaurants, but I'd still like to see a well-described explanation of how to safely add an external charging setup to any popular EUC.  Having the option to carry a backpack battery for long rides would change the dynamics of how we choose EUCs.  No longer would it be a choice between big/heavy/long range and light/nimble/short range.

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