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TG-F3 broken?


GermanDude

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I hope this forum can help me. I bought an EUC (TG-F3) 3 month ago and was quite happy with it. Then I took it home and let my brother (~100kg) in law ride it. After his second try the EUC stopped working - well not quite.

It would not start without the power cable connected. The lamps just light up for a short time an then turn off again. (Dropbox Link to Video)

However when I connect it to the wall-plug and turn it on all is fine. The lamps all light up (fully charged) and the gyro starts working. (Dropboxlink to Video)

I opened it up but I couldnt see any defective parts on the board - I didn't disconnect the battery from the wheel, because I don't know if it is easy to reconnect.

I would appreciate some advice. Thanks in advance.

When I get that fixed I would love to turn off the BMS - FPed twice (once without reason and once because of an empty battery).

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It looks like your battery has died, or suffered a broken circuit?  That's just a guess from looking at the video.  See if you can find a battery specialist to look at it.

You can unplug and re-plug the battery to verify if the connection is just loose.  If you are worried about putting it back wrong, only unplug ONE wire at a time and plug back before doing another.  If you pull the wires from the Motherboard, you should probably put some hot glue back on the plugs so they don't fall off during riding.

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Thanks for your fast reply. I just disassembled the EUC and tried to measure the battery power - I got a big spark and wonder what I did wrong.

I put the measuring unit in DC voltage mode and connected the measuring "needles" to the cable normally connected to the controller board. Thats how it works for normal batteries - they then show the voltage on screen...

Do I have to watch out for something special?

The cables where tightly connected and the cables on the board all looked tight as well.

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Me being an idiot doesn't help the measuring/repairing process. I kind of forgot to switch the plugs on the measuring unit. It was still set for current measuring. So after I replugged the cables correctly I could measure the voltage and it turned out to be 63 V. This is about the correct voltage, isn't it?

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5 minutes ago, GermanDude said:

Me being an idiot doesn't help the measuring/repairing process. I kind of forgot to switch the plugs on the measuring unit. It was still set for current measuring. So after I replugged the cables correctly I could measure the voltage and it turned out to be 63 V. This is about the correct voltage, isn't it?

You know, I did the exact same thing (plugged the measuring probes into a battery connector with the wire plugged into 10A current measuring hole). :D Nice sparks, and destroyed one of my measuring probes and the connector now has metal welded inside it.

Depending on the charge level, the voltage should be somewhere between 50V (could be even lower, if the wheel lets you drive the battery more empty) and 67.2V (maximum voltage, 4.2V per cell), so that sounds like it at least gives out the correct voltage.

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67.2 is full. 63 is close enough it should balance the wheel.

Be VERY careful inside there.  That voltage and amperage can cause quite an Arc Weld to happen, and even worse, can start the battery to blow up causing a severe and hard to extinguish fire.

IF you ever get a fire, NEVER add water as it will create oxygen and make the fire worse.  You can Completely Cover it with DRY Sand or DRY Table Salt, LOTS OF IT!  This will slow the burn, but it's still going to burn...

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Thank you for your great and fast replies. But short circuiting ;) and (which I think is most probable) disconnecting the battery from the board solved the issue. None of the electronic was burned and it's working well again,

But after test-driving the mcm2s in a shop in Berlin a couple of weeks ago I was nearly happy the T3 broke down... ^^ It absolutely not comparable. The Gotway works so much better and smoother.

Well, thanks again for your support, uh and I forgot about that in the beginning: A happy New Year to all of you.

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Supersport, I am happy to hear that, because I have a TG T3 and the pathes in the forest are rather difficult, when there are stones or roots emerging : the wheel brakes on them so I can not keep "onboard". I think a bigger wheel and more power will both help to cross obstacles of that type. I wait a little as I'm not in a good shape those days but my best choice as far as now is a NinebotOne E+, except I will have a try before...

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1 hour ago, Maxime said:

Thanks Supersport.  You think to an 18" directly ?

I've never ridden an 18" wheel, but I was with a group of guys last weekend that swear by them.  They said they were still about as nimble as the NineBot, but had more power and distance.  I cannot get over how comfortable the NineBot is to ride, so I'm a little prejudiced.  I know many people ride the NineBot off road, I just don't want to mess mine up.  It is a very sturdy built wheel though, so it could probably handle it.  It's also IP65 rated, so dust and water isn't an issue.

NineBot OffRoad:

 

 

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Thanks. I think from what you show that a Ninebot would be sufficient for my style, as far as now ! If I make huge progresses I could need a more adaped wheel but not now. And that would imply full protection, what I prefer to avoid to keep my freedom...

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  • 3 months later...

Hi.. i think i have the same problem... can i ask how did you disconnected the battery from the board? what wires should i unplug and where exactly in the board.... a picture would be so great.. thanks in advance.. 

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On 8. Jänner 2016 at 1:42 PM, SuperSport said:

  It's also IP65 rated, so dust and water isn't an issue.

Sorry - the ninebot is definitely not IP65 proof. They already removed this statement from some of their company sides...

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13 hours ago, Chriull said:

Sorry - the ninebot is definitely not IP65 proof. They already removed this statement from some of their company sides...

Yeah, I never came back and edited this post. I believe they are now claiming IP54. 

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37 minutes ago, SuperSport said:

Yeah, I never came back and edited this post. I believe they are now claiming IP54. 

About time (for them to fix the IP-level, not you to come back ;)), is this actually the first time that a manufacturer is sincere about the ingress protection level? :P

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Yeah, it's funny how they can just post numbers about IP rating, mileage, speed, etc, and it does not matter if it's real or not.  But I guess Auto Manufacturers do it all the time too, so what's new...  hehe

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7 hours ago, SuperSport said:

Yeah, it's funny how they can just post numbers about IP rating, mileage, speed, etc, and it does not matter if it's real or not.  But I guess Auto Manufacturers do it all the time too, so what's new...  hehe

Yes, BMW's have lower emission levels than Ninebot ;-)

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