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Found 28 results

  1. Help!! My son got a Minilite for Christmas. Why does it lean back and try to stop when he reached 10mph? I realize that it tops out at 10 but why the sudden jerk as a safety feature? Can that be turned off?
  2. My Speed Reset to 28KMH Max KS16s! Help!

    I have been riding it about 3 months... I had reset it to go 35KPH.. Everything was great until yesterday when I noticed I got the "Please Decelerate" notice and tilt back... but going a lot slower than it should be at. I checked my speed settings on the app and it was set to 35 still, yet it was happening at about 28kph. I can't put in a new code on the speed limit decoding screen cuz once you do it once, you get the same screen as the speed limit setup. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the app but it still wouldn't bring me to the proper screen to enter a code again.. I tried to install the new version of the app on my android phone from the website but it doesn't download.... so I installed the old app on my friends iPhone and finally thought I had it solved when I saw the proper speed limit decoding screen... I did it.. took it for a ride, and nope... still set to 28kph... I wonder if I need to reset the wheel to a factory default and how to do it. Does anyone know how to solve this? Help!!
  3. Ninebot One S1 Training Speed Limiter

    Hi All, Is there any way to skip the 1 KM speed limiter on the Ninebot One S1. I am an experienced rider and to go that slow is really annoying even if it is just 1 KM. -Steve
  4. I tried my new King Song KS-18s 1640Wh and decided to make a video of its cruising speed. I'm 6.2 feet tall and 210 pounds. So far, it's very stable, reliable, fun etc. Link for the video is below:
  5. A buddy of mine has been riding his Ninebot Mini Pro daily for more than a year and he always complained about how slow and annoying because of the alarm and tiltback. Recently, he switched to EUC. He bought a BNIB Ninebot One E+ with NO modification at all. After learning and riding it for about a month later, out of curiosity I asked him whether he likes it or not, since I know that a Ninebot One E+ normally is not fast enough for regular cruising. But I was surprised when he didn't have any complain about its speed at all besides of the battery capacity, of course. Not even complained about any alarm / tiltback. At first, I didn't believe him. But when he showed me this... should I worry about him having a defective unit or happy for him for having the fastest Ninebot One E+ on earth?
  6. I went on a long ride yesterday to a beach far far away, on my way back I needed to cross to the opposite side of the road where there is no side walk but there is a bike lane, so after riding in the bike lane for a few minutes till I got to where the side walk started again, I decided to Take a peak at the wheel log app and saw that during that short stretch, I GOT UP TO 32 MPH!!. I was like whoa, that's the fastest I've ever gone on any of my wheels and the crazy thing is the ride was sooo smooth and comfortable it didn't feel like it at all, I guess another reason is I was riding so close to cars going 45+ MPH that it made me feel like I was going slower than I really was. The picture shows that I am at 48% battery life but I was actually at around 68% batt when I got up to 32 MPH, I took the screen shot a lot later
  7. Hello, I bought an Inmotion v5+ about two months ago. Now It has already 500km. I'm writing here because I'd like to increase the speed of my wheel but I don't know what is the procedure. Please, someone can help me? I heared that exist an apk to do that, but I would not be able to figure out how it works.. Thank you
  8. Fastwheel speed

    Hallo I have seen in the french site of fastwheel that maximum speed is setted at 22 kmh. I have 18 kmh speed limit on my wheel. Is there any way to change speed limit by ANDROID APP? Thanks
  9. Very simple question about the ninebot app. I can't seem to locate the option to change the units that the speed is being displayed in. I'd like to change it from Km/h to Mph. Is it hard coded to Km/h or am I just not seeing where to change it? Thanks,
  10. Hi mates, as promised I did some tests with the new firmware 1.25 on my KS16B, because there was the rumour (or info) that the maxspeed is now not lowered at 50% battery capacity, but at a lower capacity level (which would excite some folks including myself :-) ). Short answer: Yes, as an opposite to Ninebot (who worsened the firmware of my former MiniPro) Kingsong continuously enhanced the KS16 firmware, and now maxspeed is lowered around 20% battery capacity, not before. For me that's great, although it means there is a little bit shorter range, if I always drive at maxspeed (which I tend to do). What I also like is, that the maxspeed is not hard cutted from 30 to 25 km/h at a specific capacity level, but it goes down in a smooth reduction curve, starting at approximately 20% battery capacity. Long answer: The test was done on a nearly completely flat terrain, and my KS16B has alarm1 and alarm2 turned off, and alarm3 and tiltback are set to 30 km/h (the maximum possible). The screenshots were done when the wheel was continuously beeping, but still no strong tiltback, so not at an absolute peak speed, but at a maxspeed which can be kept for at least 5 seconds or more. This way I hope to have comparable results. The first screenshot at 63% capacity level is what you would always expect, also with firmware 1.23, the 30 km/h can be easily reached: Already more interesting at 34%, the set maxspeed can still be reached easily: 6 km and nearly 11 minutes later at 30% capacity, still no maxspeed reduction: Half a minute later I had to climb a small hill, still possible at full speed with 25% capacity: 3 minutes and 2 km later, at 21% the speed reduction is for the first time recognizable: But it's still higher than 25 km/h, the maxspeed seems to be reduced in a soft way, not with a hard cut: Now, only around 10%, the 25 km/h limit seems to be reached: And kept until the battery is nearly empty (from App point of view): Also interesting: In the Wheellog graphic it can be seen that the maxspeed is always the same (around 30 km/h) from begin on until approximately between 12h16 and 12h17, and from then on during the next 15 minutes it goes smoothly down from 30 to 25 km/h, no hard cut at a specific capacity: My conclusion: I like what i see regarding the maxspeed reduction, it is done in a great way in a responsible manner, from my point of view ! I also encountered a rather strong tiltback in the last quarter of my ride, when I was driving slightly downhill and did a very strong acceleration from nearly zero to above maxspeed. The tiltback was as strong as I never had it before on my KS16, so I was a little bit shocked, although it was no problem to decelerate. Regardless if this is also new with 1.25 or if it was already like that before, this is a good safety feature, because I was REALLY forced to decelerate by that ! To me the KS16B became an even better wheel by the firmware upgrade, although I already was very happy with it before !
  11. Hi all, After "only" 750 km on my Ninebot One E+ I decided to change the tire. It was not really necessary but I was feeling a kind of decrease of performance, increased tilt back in the last 100km. I was wondering if my battery pack was getting weaker but it was cheaper to try changing the tire first So I did, I replaced original one with this one https://onewheel.be/en/accessories/33-ninebot-one-buitenband-16-inch-1950-eur-ninebot.html It is actually not the original one but a thinner one (1.95 vs 2.125 inches). Because of that thinner size I feel it a bit harder to jump/mount on the EUC. But I'll deflate it a little bit and see if it makes it more stable. I think 45psi is too much on a thin tire, I'm not very heavy (less than 70kg). Now the nice part: it goes faster ! Yes a new tire makes a difference. I didn't measure my speed but I felt it faster, better acceleration and less tilt back when accelerating. So guys, if you feel your EUC is not as fast as you wish, if it has a quite high mileage, first consider changing the tire. Much cheaper than buying a faster one or changing battery Have fun !
  12. Safety speed with your EUC

    Hello, French Wheeler, but not as good as some other, I had a bad accident (broken shoulder, now with some metal!!) with my small ninebot one E+... and I spent some time in order to understant why we face cut out or accidents. So, on the forums, I could recognize 4 kind of accidents : 1- Pilot did ignore alarm.... nothing to say.... too optimistic, 2- driving accident (bumps....), 3- Sudden cut off.... (looks like my accident, but I'm not sure it wasn't a technical failure), 4- Technical failure. Rare since construcors did improve the safety...or correct bugs (BMS for instance). For the point 3, I did some calculation, that shows that specification of constructors seems to be far too optimistic, and the speed alarm does not consider the wheight of the pilot... which has a huge impact. What I did consider is a common case of accident : you run on flat road, no alarm, straight... and you have a small slope (not big, couple of meters long!). So immedialtely, since you do not consider you have to slow dow, your Wheel has to give all power in order to maintain the speed during the slope. In this condition, considering a 10% slope (not big at all, it is a 6° angle road), what is the maximum speed you can run? I did consider air drag, which has a big influence over 30 km/h), the solpe that I consider as a safety margin, and the wheight of the pilot. The power was considered as constant whaterver the speed is (optimistic), and, since nobody know the duration of the peak's power, 0,5 second for this peak (which is only use for bumps in fact!). Yield of the Wheel in order to transform electrical energy to mechanical energy is estimated at 75% (tests on some gotways). What do we calculate show that with a 500 W, at 25 km/h, you're not save at all... except if you are a kid. On a gotway ACM our MS3, 45 km/h is not a realistic speed since air drag consume most of the power... What do you think? Conclusions : - Power, and slow speed is the key for safety... - Adapt speed limit cosidering your wheight, - If you want to keep the hight speed limit, go quiet, and in all case, use protections!!! Of course, this is only my caclulation, an you can disagree! EUC safety speed.xlsx
  13. Airweel Q1 in real conditions : review

    Hi all. I'm a new user in the world of the unicycle. I bought last month an Airwheel Q1 for 110 USD ! after 10 minutes I was already able to use it and after one day was totaly confident at start. I use it every day to go to work, it's very stable and easy to drive. Very convenient to make interchange in public transports. I juste think it's a bit too slow (my weight is 93 kg...) The cruise spead is between 11 and 12 km;h and autonomy around 12 km (i will update later this post with a distance test.. I have recorded today a trip with my gps watch (10km). You can find attached the detail of the trip : instant speed, altitude ... Airwheel Q1 real conditions test.xls
  14. Have recently been bitten by the EUC bug and puchased a Ninebot One E+ couple of months ago. As I'm getting more confident, I am getting bored of the 20kph speed limit I'm getting from the Ninebot One E+ and was thinking if it is possible to swap the control board with this one: https://reseller.alibaba.com/product-detail/16-electric-unicycle-Controller-with-bluetooth_60288223259.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.VsHfbJ Have seen other threads where other users have been swapping their control boards with the one from Microworks purchased from Alibaba. Also wondering if the motor for the ninebot one has to be changed to this: https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/2015-New-Products-brushless-motor-16_60237639861.html?spm=a2700.7724838.0.0.XfG3kt What do you guys think? Any other peripherals that have to be changed as well like hall sensor connectors or the like? Or if this hack is even possible? Appreciate your comments. Cheers
  15. Frankensteining in your C+ into a E+

    Well pretty sure my C+ has a 500w motor, kind of says it on the wheel, noticed it while messing with the controller, Controller it seems is ver 1.3 the same as the E+. Thinking of getting a 320WH battery for the C+ which I like best go figure rides better, for more range, and carry the smaller battery extended trips with the C+ or E+. Now I know I will get the E+ range with the new battery, just wondering if I will get the speed and power of the E+?
  16. Hi all, I'm seriously thinking about getting a ninebot one e+ or maybe s2 when I can get some proper reviews and specs for it. So my question that I hope some of you can help me out with is speed vs rider weight. E+ is supposed to go somewhere between 18 and 22 KM/H so what should I expect if I'm around 90kg /200 pounds? The second questions is how 20 km/h feels... I mean if I want to use it for commuting 20 km/h is needed but can I actually (after some training of cause) use that speed without getting a close to death experience each morning? It's really hard to tell when you're not able to try one out, as a matter of fact I have never even seen one live so I hope someone can help me out here Thanks /JB
  17. The reason why there are speed warnings and tilt-backs (even tilt-forward for my gotway Msuper) is to avoid that the rider falls forward while accelerating because the engine, the converter cannot deliver that high CURRENT, while he is able to work at that voltage. But strange enough, the warnings, the alarms and tilt-backs depend from speed (which is proportional with the voltage) instead of current. You would still say: so what? Well, if you are climbing a steep hill of 35 degrees and you are 120kg and you accelerate very fast on this hill from 0 to 20km/h. You wouldn't even hear a warning before falling because your speed is OK (less than 20km/h) but the engine and the converter cannot deliver that high current: current is proportional with the load (=weight, inclination and accelaration). voltage is proportional with the speed (motor speed and unicycle speed). Also for braking, once I had braked heavily and my gotway msuper did a tilt-forward, to make me clear that he cannot brake that fast. Again without warning. since my speed was ok, besides I was braking so of course there will be no warnings for brakings: but it should. I became a little unstable due to tilt forward during braking but again this is a current and load issue not a speed and voltage issue. why don't they focus to current to make the unicycle safer. The voltage nearly rests the same for all moments: 52-68 volt:empty, full, high speed, low speed, braking, accelerating. always between 52-68. But the current can go from minus 50 amperes to plus 50 amperes: a huge difference and the most restricting factor for the capabilities of the product. If we look at the progression in the car industry in the last 2 centuries, one can give an example for safe braking to compare with the safe accelerating on the euc's. They make an ABS system to make you brake safer. They don't say: "you are braking, your intention is to stop, and stopping is safe, so you are in the good way. you don't need a ABS. you may brake and slip when you brake from 200km/h to 0km/h in a rainy environment and due to slipping you may make an accident and die." But the engineers of euc do still need time to make the euc safer, not slower, safer by inventing the current warning system. No? I think the reason is: current can change instantly (accelerating from zero or hard braking at high speed) and warnings should not have an impact by that time, while speed increases slowly (e.g. 3 seconds from 0 to 30km/h), then it has sense to send an alarm at 25km/h and by the time you hear it and you stop accelerating you ride already 35km/h. If the warning would be at 33km/h, by the time you hear the alarm you would be at 44km/h and you would have fallen. But for people want to accelerate slowly the alarms at low speed levels is not relevant. Engineers... am I correct?
  18. IPS Zero speed warning

    Hi! Was curious about during what speed the speed warning started to beep and opened up Waze during the ride. Waze tells around 23-24km/h when the beep starts. This wheel is told to have a Max speed of 30 but the sound make me not want to try to go that fast. Anyone that have tried?
  19. Best EUC speedometer

    Curious as to how people monitor their speed while riding. On Android I've discovered Speed to Text, an app that will speak your top speed every x seconds, where x is a value you set. You can choose KPH, MPH in a number of varieties, including top speed or average speed during the time since the previous notification. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mmi.android.speedtotext I set the app to run in the background and speak my speed every two seconds. I wear a Bluetooth headset (Moto Hint v2) and play it at half volume so that I get a pretty much constant feed of my current speed. Helps me to max out between 25 to 27 kph (IPS Zero 340wh) without getting uncomfortably close to max speed. I find that I can indeed "feel" my speed pretty closely, and think that the app has helped me calibrate my internal speedometer. Curious to hear if there are iOS solutions to this problem as well. CHEERS
  20. Today I was on a trip again with my EUC (IPS Zero - total traveld distance now ~ 145 Km, speed limit set to 25 Km/h)) and as I normally do not, today I had my smartphone with the app running to have a look at my speed. I was totally surprised: While I surely slow down when other pedestrians are around, I clearly ride at higher speed now (compared to the beginning) when nobody is around. ( @Colestien you promised it already ) And: I totally underestimated my riding speed. So this are my 'travelling speed's' now (good street condition, nobody around, no 'surprise' from sides possible): * normal slow travel: ~ 12 Km/h * normal travel (18 - 20 Km/h) I'm interested in what are your travelling speed's? Do you know how fast you are going?
  21. I’m going give a head to head comparison between the IPS Lhotz 340 and the T680+(a.k.a. “Tank” or 151/152, or T500 which is mentioned on the box; the fine art of marketing cleary has not trickled down to IPS yet ). I’ll split the review up in several parts, as this will make it easier to comment and/or ask questions. After combing through most threads on brands, BMS, motor, battery, FP or not to FP, etc., I count myself lucky to have bought a Lhotz340Wh (older version with torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH) august last year. So why did I buy the IPS 680+? Lhotz Design: The broader (2,5inch) and larger tyre which actually makes the wheel around >1inch bigger than the one of th IPS680+ results in good traction and stability. It has relatively long pedals (22cm, you can scrape the corner of the pedals on the ground in tight turns) so you can place your feet exactly where you want them depending on what you want to do, which improves control over the wheel. The pedals are made of solid painted aluminum, they are not that thick and I tend to feel some flex (real flex or the hinges, fixtures?). Because of the paint the pedals are quite slippery when wet, this is nothing a patch of skate board tape cannot cure. The body (15cm wide) tapers off towards the edges and there’s no protruding battery housing at the top, so there’s room for the inner side of your calfs (no pressure) and you can put your feet close to the center which is great for stability and control. As a consequence the biggest pressure is on the inside of the ankles instead of the calfs. There’s here and there in strategic places soft rubber-like bright red padding (the brownread stuff on the pictures is my doing), with a high friction surface which is great for improving control over the wheel. The case has broad cut-outs front and back, so negotiation small obstacles like branches on the road poses no problem at all. The Lhotz is very sturdy by design, no rattles or creaks if you pressure it, and the handle is stainless steel so it doesn’t break even if you wheel bounces downhill without you. This all comes at a weight penalty of course: 14 kg. The round stainless tube of which the handle is made doesn’t improve the weight perception when carrying it, it’s slippery and cold in winter (I’m now using a samsonite belt to carry it). I don’t understand why IPS put a plastic slide-on charging port cover on it, which doesn’t stick for more than a minute. To save weight perhaps, really??? (I replaced it by an aftermarket metal screw cap)The battery charger is a very light box with an active cooling system (which doesn’t inspire a lot of trust, what happens if the ventilator dies?), and a US style wall plug (an EU adapter was sold separately) Verdict: Excellent Lhotz Safety: The Lhotz has enough torque to cope with my 100Kg adequately but it’s not perfect, I’ve had 2 FP, 1 overtorqueing when acceleration too fast from standstill, and 1 on a slight downward slope riding in a pit when at it’s cruising speed. When I push the weel, I can feel it (the motor?) struggling and (I believe) the BMS sometimes cuts in fractions of a second when the battery is drained too fast. I’ve experienced no BMS cut-outs though; when the batt level decreases the pedals start tilting at lower speeds and the weel starts beeping if you try to push it, even at very low speeds the tiltback is quite strong so there seems to be plenty of reserve programmed into the BMS. Therefor I would consider the Lhotz by design a relatively safe wheel, the flipside is that below 50% batt level the wheel is no fun to ride at all, and it’s game over below 30%. Verdict: Very good Lhotz Range/speed: Even with the torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH, it doesn’t feel that stable at the 17KmH cruising speed (see safety topic above). At 17KmH cruising speed, it drains 50% of the battery in about 12km. I live in a small village, and for shopping, the library, public administration, etc. I have to commute to the main village of the region which is at 5km one way. 12Km max range is not enough, driving around a bit for the shopping, windy conditions, low temp, and I barely can get home. There’s no fun in carrying a 14kg wheel, believe me, this causes me quite a bit of range anxiety. My wife already had to come and ‘save’ me by car, because I forgot the evening before that I rode just a very short distance and didn’t charge it to a full 100% (I try to avoid this because it’s not good for the battery). So if a guy of my size needs a cruising range of >15Km at a cruising speed of 20-25KmH, 340Wh is nearly not enough. Adequate. Which brings me to my choice of the T680+: Looking around, I saw no 16” alternatives from a reputed brand with such a big battery and a proven design (the KS16 is brand new). With the T680+ I hope to find (almost) the same build quality, high torque motor, and decent safety features, all this for a price of 1,129.- USD (delivery and taxes included) delivered to my door in Belgium straight from the IamIPS factory in just 12 days.
  22. Hi All, Moving in from the Firmware topic into its own topic for Open Sourced Hardware. Over the next little while I will move all the content from Firmware onto this post. I've been working on Reverse engineering the Gen2 boards as a starting point for development. Should have that done and posted today. We hope to be able to use the same Git to do both Hardware and Firmware advancements. I will post the important links as they come to this page. Lets keep the topic to Hardware. Although I have a Mechatroincs background my firmware skills are limited so we will definitely need some support from our Firmware buffs. Welcome to the topic. Mo
  23. EUC and MonoSki

    Hi all EUC fans! I do not know if you are aware of this, but the EUC is VERY close to the MonoSki -- the same stance and muscles are used! AND in fact I think the EUC community can learn from the MonoSki...because we have been around since 1980! I am an avid monoskier with lots of experience in MonoSki and I am currently riding a NB!E+ but will probably change to (or rather add) GWMsuper when the new model is outthis video is from our monoski trips:http://www.freeride.se/video/20041/ a simple tutorial for Monoski (works for carving on EUC as well!) http://monoskisweden.blogspot.se/search/label/tutorial and some inspirational stuff from a french MonoSkier in Chamonix
  24. So..... i have a ninebot one e+. I did some research that seemed like the better option that fit my needs at the time, and let me tell you its been one hell of a ride.... but somethings missing. I wish it could go faster. I wish the battery could last a little longer. I know the ninebot one pro is coming soon, but the specs aren't really too far from my e+. I feel like ninebot is giving us little by little specs at a time to sell each model... like the iphone(4,4s,5,5s,6, etc) where it looks pretty and premium, but they barely up the specs, and slowly gets features that others had for years. I feel as if the ninebot pro is gonna make me feel stupid when the ninebot p+ comes out for a $100 bucks more. I want the Samsung of Unicycles(well the old samsung)! Where they maximize every possible spec, easy changable batteries, gives you the most bang for your buck, and gives you more than what you need. It may not be the prettiest or the most popular. That being said, which 18in is the best. I know there are plenty to choose from. I only know a few. Such as the king song, solo extreme, msuper 18, and the ninebot pro. By best i mean, max speed, power, battery/distance, comfort, user experience, parts/accessories. Accesories... i dont really care too much about but its always a plus. Please share which unicycle you think is the beast of unicycles. Doesn't have to be the one i provided. I love to have choices and there is so much i just dont know. Thats why i need your help. Thanks!!!
  25. Real world stats as tested by 140 lbs rider at 100 ft elevation, 55F degree weather with 12+ mph winds, and 45psi tire: Battery Range: 13 miles (21 km) in uneven road/sidewalk surfaces with constant incline changes. Non-stop riding.Max Speed: 12 mph (on leveled 180 degrees surface)Max climbing incline: ~60 degrees (tested in off-road hill)Unexpected power cutoffs: NONEMax charge time: 2 hrs(now post yours)
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