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  1. I have this, mostly in the winter time: https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/low-blood-pressure/symptoms-causes/syc-20355465 Anybody else deal with dizziness from low blood pressure, low blood sugar, or medication? I eat very healthily, and skip meals/fast once in a while. I also probably have low sodium from my healthy diet. Skip a meal while having low sodium and low blood pressure in general causes dizziness when I stand up. It's not supposed to be a health concern in general, assuming one isn't riding a damn unicycle. Anyway just wondering if anybody else deals with dizziness. I'm learning to ride my first wheel, and it can take 5-10 minutes of standing up and practicing with a hand on the wall before my balance is really confident. I suspect that this may be an ongoing issue even after I master riding the wheel. I'm considering ski poles as a safety precaution, especially after Rehab's accident. Or maybe something like this
  2. I started to compile a list of riding skills that I myself found somewhat relevant for safety. I have been practicing all of these (and many more which didn't make it to this list because I do not deem them relevant enough for riding safety). The bad news: lack of riding skills is IMHO not the most important safety concern. The greatest safety hazards as far as I see it are speed (in combination with potholes, hidden corners, the natural power limits of EUCs, etc.), overconfidence, lack of knowledge of EUCs capabilities, fast moving heavy objects like cars, and complacency. Now let's go to the meat, a listing of relevant skills with a few tips: Beginners: a learning belt is of good use to prevent the wheel from running away hitting and getting between the legs after hopping off getting lots of scratches (not a safety concern though) relax, remain upright, look ahead (not down), avoid to fully straighten the knees avoid using the arms for balancing, instead twist the wheel left-right to balance and use the feet to control the wheel important: be always mentally prepared to hop off when hopping off, focus to stay away from the wheel. The wheel may hit your legs and this hurts and can lead to (usually minor) injuries or it can be a stumbling block to fall over learn to brake Intermediate, learn and/or practice to: brake hard, I haven't yet stopped to practice emergency braking almost every day minimise arm movements and let the feet do all the control of the wheel and balancing instead; this means to give leverage to use arms in a critical situation when they may be really needed be mentally prepared to run off and away from the wheel (without a learning belt) avoiding to let the wheel hit you or get into the way between the feet after separation; I am not exactly sure how to practice this intentionally, but I usually lose the wheel a few times during a single play-around session (on loose ground), which gives practice in a relaxed setup put, at the same time, almost all weight to the tip (the ball) of one foot and to the heel of the other foot; it is not too difficult to even lift one heel and the opposite front foot at the same time; this is a first step to freely position the feet on the pedals while standing with one leg on the ground, "lock" the wheel with the other leg; in this position, move the wheel anywhere around with the loose leg, also further away from the supporting leg thereby spreading the legs and distributing weight to both legs keep the upper body vertical; lean forward (and backward) by bending the knees (and moving the hips slightly forward and less slightly backward), not by leaning the upper body most important: keep the knees soft; soft knees are our suspension and allow to negotiate anything unexpected on the ground (bumps, holes, slippery spots) and go over curbs of 3-4" relatively easily (depending on wheel size); I manage 5" curbs on a 16" wheel with this technique. Keeping the knees soft enough needs quite some practicing, unfortunately. go over speed bumps with soft knees such that the upper body doesn't move vertically at all; fixate a point with your eyes to know whether your head has moved most important: acquire the reflex to bent the knees in any critical situation; many if not most critical situations can be saved this way; when separating from the wheel, the body should always be low enough that the heels of the feet can touch the ground instantaneously; flying in the air means giving up almost all control over the further course of events, being closer to the ground means to have a larger area available where to firmly place the next foot turn the head into any possible direction, include up, and keep it there for a couple of seconds; look anywhere, including and in particular behind or nowhere (closed eyes) Advanced, learn and/or practice to: dismount effortlessly and smoothly (with bent knees); ideally, the mental effort to dismount is small enough to never be tempted to hold onto something for dismount avoidance; consider one foot on the ground as part of the natural riding process fully relax the arms; like when walking, the aim is, for example, to be able to effortlessly take sunglasses out of their case and put them on while riding ride on any surface you can get hold off, the more slippery or the softer the better (start slowly!), search for longitudinal grooves to ride over, and keep the arms relaxed brake hard on a downhill slope move/position the feet freely on the pedal while riding while driving moderately slowly, touch the ground with one foot also putting weight on the ground foot; the ground leg must always stay away from the wheel to not clip the leg with the pedal; keep the body low enough such that the heel can reach the ground; easier to begin while riding a curve ride down stairways; when on stairs keep ground contact as long as possible, think of each stair as a bump, think of skiing mogul, apply a (slightly) tighter grip on the shell as usual; start with 2 stairs, then 3... turn the hip, like for sitting down to the side; mastering this move gives more leverage to look anywhere around and behind and to take tight turns riding backwards, at least a little. Start by moving one inch backwards after braking to a full stop and increase the distance gradually. I always practice both sides, left and right, when applicable. Of course many of these could in principle be combined, showing that the movements have become automised. Many combinations I am not capable of doing (I can't climb a larger curb with closed eyes or run off the wheel while putting on the sunglasses Based on my experience and on reports of many others, clipping a curb or a wall or anything on the ground with the pedal or the foot is one of the main reasons for unexpected falls of more experienced riders. I started to experiment practicing this situation, but can't say for the moment whether this is likely to be of any help.
  3. I am using Slime in all my wheels and had recently my first two punctures after almost 8000km. The good news: I could recognise a tiny leak by fluid leaking from the valve stem before I even noticed a loss of air pressure. Slime also helps a lot to find the location where the tube is leaking, as the leak spits out the fluid. The bad news: even a comparatively small puncture wasn't fully sealed. Repair becomes slightly more difficult, as, I believe, vulcanisation only works on a Slime-free tyre and the leak doesn't quite stop to spit out Slime. Overall a tyre sealant is a safety improvement, so I will keep using it. I just wonder whether there are better products out there than Slime.
  4. Hello all, I'm used to go down a hill daily with my ACM 16 820wh, around 650meters length and 65-7meters height. That gets me an average of 10% slope with variation between 0 to 20%. Last 2 days, i got a worrisome phenomenon that happens when i go down : even with weak speed (10km/h), a little braking can be troubling. Pedals start getting tilted, and motor alarms starts bipping to death. Lucky me, I've not yet experienced a cut off at this point, but this is really annoying. I had this kind of problems with average speed 15-20km/h, and started to chill out and going slower to avoid any problem. But now, it's coming back to haunt me at low speed... @Marty Backe i know you're the ultimate gotway user, anything to relate to this ? You probably had experienced this, no ? I know some cases of Ninebots or small motors >800W cutting off in big slope, they couldn't sustain the effort of braking. I'm still surprised to be so close to 80% motor power with my ACM 1500W and full battery capacity. It behaves still okay on flat ground, with hard braking and acceleration. Well, my motor axle feels a bit tired with time, will probably broke in a year or less. I wish to discuss about some points with you buddy-wheelers, what are the recommendations and solutions to go down a hill with 100% safety ? I guess the less you speed up, the less i risk to get huge W consummation spikes when i brake What about taking my wheel backside ? If there's a side to drive it, maybe going in reverse could be better to brake ? Might be a stupid idea right there. Bigger motor needed ? Hello Tesla, KS18L. Can wheel size have influence in braking power ? Small wheel can deal with it easier ? Can weight positioning on pedals influence the braking system ? I would say no, but so much physical parameters, speed, weight, slope, what's your view about this ? A little picture to illustrate the idea : I wish you'll come out with more advice on this, i'm a bit short on ideas right now. It's so frustrating to be going down a hill at the speed of a walker. Thanks ! PS : for those who'll come to say "just don't brake dude" => No.
  5. I bought some wrist guards finally, because I am a guitar player and I can't keep taking chances with my hands. So I purchased my wrist guards, typical standard ones and as soon as I tried the first trick they forced me on to my elbow instead. With basic stiff wrist guards you can cause a fracture further up the arm as well some finger injuries. I found these, they're $30. I wanted these but they go up so high and most of all they are about $65. Fractures further up the arm are a real hazard with the typical style. So this could be the ticket. Not sure. This is the footage of me falling onto my elbow.
  6. I wonder if this can even be pinned down to any coherent answer, riders and wheels both being built so differently, but humor me if you will and share your opinions and/or experiences. Do you step off your machine when a curb comes along? Do you go up or down stairs on your wheel? Jump? Do you slow down or speed up to do it? How safe do you think it is to do any of that, either for your health or your machine? Would you recommend it or advise against? And do you yourself practice what you might think should be preached?
  7. Dear EUC Pioneers, Nothing spoils the joy of EUC riding more than a painful accident. For pure luck, I was spared any serious injuries so far, but when I'm honest to myself, that's way more due to luck than skill. Any fall at higher speed and I am way out of my league to cope with that. Most likely, I end up flat on my face, ruining arms and knees on the way down. Inside our Berlin riding group, we got such a wake up call lately, when one of the members shattered his forearm just days after receiving his shiny new high performance wheel. That got us thinking. As we don't know about any established EUC safety training, we attempt to invent our own. Here you will find a first concept along with the friendly request to contribute your ideas and feedback. Of course all of you are more than welcome to copy, use and improve all or part of it - it's positively Public Domain! Status: First Draft, June 4, 2017 by Tilmann Exercises Mounting / Starting: Training Goal: Mount and start from flat ground without assistance without leaving a narrow track (approx. 1 foot wide) Activity: Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape and start trying... Training Goal: Max. accellaration w/o ‘overlean’, i.e. achieve the fastest possible acceleration without overstressing the wheels power. Activity: Force an ‘overlean’ at safe speed and ‘run-off’ (should not be difficult with a weak 350W motor). Repeat the exercise to find the best leaning angle that just works. Braking: Training Goal: Break to a stop in minimum distance (from a straight path). Activity: At very low riding speed, lean back violently to force a motor cut-out. Repeat the exercise to find the angle with best braking action. Training Goal: Break to a stop in minimum distance (from a turn). Activity: No idea, we just have to try... Riding / Stabilizing: Training Goal: Master uneven ground (tree roots, potholes, street curbs, speed bumpers, etc.). Activity: depends on what the respective playground has to offer. Ideally, include some round rods that roll away when you ride over them. Training Goal: Circumvent static obstacles (like the ever so popular bicycle barriers). Include ducking under higher obstacles like branches and gates (“ewheel limbo”). Activity: Various obstacles will be simulated with tape. Supporters to hold the tape in mid air for the ducking exercises. Training Goal: Master dynamic obstacles (something/somebody surprisingly runs in your path). Activity: A wider track (approx. 3 feet) is marked on the gound. While the trainee rides on the track at safe speed, a supporter on the ground is challenged to get the rider off the wheel by throwing a soft inflatable ball from a distance at the rider or in his way. Training Goal: Master inclines and down hill. Activity: Using the weak 350W training wheel, we excercise riding up and down the steepest incline we can find. Ideally, the incline is steep enough to overstress the wheel to cut-out at safe speed. The training ground needs to provide a safe “landing zone” for the rider and the wheel as provoked dismounts on the incline are part of the training. Training Goal: Change foot position while riding. Activity: Train to ride with just one foot on the pedal. Begin with placing the strong leg on the wheel and use the weaker leg for “skateboarding” the wheel in a straight line. Exercise, until you master several feet riding on one leg without touching the ground with the other. Gradually increase difficulty with switching legs, increasing distance and speed and including turns. Once you can lift a foot while riding, changing foot position on the pedal is a piece of cake. Variation: Include exercises to sit down on the wheel and stand up again while riding. This will also build up balancing and stability. Check training effect by mounting and starting with choosing a wrong foot position on purpose, then correct it when in motion. Training Goal: Minimum speed riding. Activity: Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape. Mark a start and a finish line. Train to ride the track as slow as possible without leaving the track, putting a foot down or reversing. Have a supporter take the actual riding time. Training Goal: Look behind while riding. Activity: Mark like 3 cardboards with letter easily readable from a distance. Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape. After the rider passed a supporter on the side, the helper holds up a card board and calls the rider. The trainee then tries to look backwards and call out the respective letter without driving off track in the process. Gradually increase the difficulty by moving the supporter closer to the track until he is placed straight behind the driver. Also gradually increase riding speed. Training Goal: Pass others on a narrow track. Activity: We mark a narrow track on the ground with tape (approx. 2 feet wide). Two trainees try passing each other either by overtaking or by riding the track in opposite direction without crossing the track borders. Training Goal: Master wind gusts. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to produce strong enough wind gusts without a helluva effort or random help from mother nature. EDIT: Added after suggestion from @Dingfelder: Training Goal: Improve balance and confidence when turning. Activity: Set up a slalom course using little traffic cones (cheap from amazon, ebay, etc.). Master such training courses with gradually increased difficulty and speed. EDIT: Added after suggestion from @Mono: Training Goal: Understand the importance to always ride with "soft knees" to be prepared for the unforeseen. Activity: Very, very cautious and slow ride over a prepared obstacle with completely straight legs ("locked knees"). Start with really small obstacles as the risk of injury is high. Stop the exercise when you got an impression, how fast balance is lost when riding with locked knees.
  8. I was looking for recommendations for a headlamp that would fit well on my helmet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O5E72KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Ideally the headlamp would be rechargeable, have different light modes (like strobe effect) and also a rear light for added visibility. Here's one I've found on Amazon, but before purchasing I wanted to try and get some feedback from the forum to see what others may be using or have for input. Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/Mifine-Waterproof-hands-free-headlight-Rechargeable/dp/B016Q8G9OU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495632717&sr=8-4&keywords=headlamp+biking
  9. hey riders, a few hours ago I flew right across a hood going approx 10-15kph on my wheel. A car driver crossed the bicycle lane turning right into a shopping center without giving a second thought to me. Luckily I wore almost full protection (no helmet!) and only my wrist guards got scratched. The wheel came to a halt running into a hedge. did you get in familiar situations? I can only guess some inattentive drivers mistake EUC riders for pedestrians. The accident happened in daylight, though for me this is the final wake up call to always wear my full face downhill helmet from now on. I might even order some extra lights for the helmet as well as one of those ugly high visibility vests. btw I was so stunned by the behaviour that I forgot to swear and claim a new pair of unscratched wrist guards. Guess I got off cheaply today. (the car driver too)
  10. Tilt-back is a mechanism to incentivise the rider to slow down. The mechanism is simple: the neutral inclination angle of the shell and hence the pedals is changed from horizontal to negative, tilting the pedals back This gives the rider the incentive to initiate a slow down (see also below). Here I discuss my understanding of the energetic (and a few other) consequences of tilt-back. Remember the feeling to lose the ground under your feet when the tilt-back sets in? Here is why. Simple geometric consideration reveals that if the riders feet stay in contact with the pedals, tilt-back raises the riders front feet and lowers the riders heels. Lowering ones heels feels like losing support and means that the riders body lowers as well if the heels remain grounded. The effect from the centre of mass: most of the work to raise the riders body (or the toes ) is done by muscles, hence the energy comes from the food the rider has digested. (Lifting 102kg by 1cm loss-free needs about 10W=102*9.81*0.01W for one second or 100W for 0.1s thereby adding 2.78mWh=10/60^2Wh=0.0024kcal to the potential energy of the rider). However not only the rider needs to work: when the wheel pushes the rider forward (or backward), straightening up or raising the riders body adds momentarily to the riders perceived weight and hence to the power demand of the wheel. Vice versa, bending the knees or lowering the body gives the wheel a short period of decreased power demand (perceived decreased rider weight). Lowering by 5cm would remove the entire rider weight for 1/10 of a second. This is definitely something one should exploit in any critical situation: the reflex of bending the knees to keep or restore the wheel under the rider is a life saver! I had two or three quite surprising saves from intentionally going rapidly-almost-falling-like deep into the knees. Unfortunately, going deep into the knees is particularly difficult and somewhat physically limited under tilt-back. Yet, soft knees are our suspension. Soft knees get us over bumps and out of potholes. Bending knees is THE invaluable reflex when riding an EUC. But I digress... First summary: when tilt-back sets in, the riders heels lower and (without body posture change) the riders centre of mass lowers and this leads to a small but possibly notable power demand reduction. The effect from the change of tilt angle (here I stand corrected): because changing the tilt angle backwards increases the speed of the motor traveling relative to the shell, changing the angle requires energy. The amount however seems to be rather miniscule. If we travel 20km/h=5.6m/s with an 18" EUC and change the tilt angle from 0º to -10º in 1 second (pretty scary, IMHO), the shell position changes over the wheel circumference by 4cm = 10/360 * 18" * π. Hence, the circumferential rotation speed increases for 1 second by 0.72% = 0.04m/5.6m, i.e. by less than one percent. I am actually not sure what the power demand of this mechanism is (between 0 and 1.4% seems a good guess), but to all I can tell it must be negligible. Tilting the wheel also lowers its centre of mass. Lowering 20kg by 1cm in 1s may deliver 2W for 1s at most. Second summary: all in all, I do not dare to decide whether the effect from titling the wheel saves or demands a very small amount of energy. For the remainder, the simple but conclusive approach is to considered energy conservation: any consumed energy from the battery must be converted into kinetic energy or potential energy or heat. After the tilt angle has changed, from the energy balance perspective nothing is different to the situation before. If the wheel consumes additional energy, it produces more torque. More torque leads to acceleration (hence energy is converted to and conserved as kinetic energy), just as it happens without tilt-back or while the tilt-back sets in. Some people feel that under tilt-back they seem to apply more pressure to the front foot, or equivalently, that the wheel applies more up-pressure. This means that the wheel produces more torque to provide this counter pressure. Torque however invariably leads to acceleration of the wheel (or the wheel and the rider). The other way around, if the wheel does not accelerate, this feeling is a perception due to the uncomfortable foot position but not actually an increased up-pressure. Finally, slowing down the wheel, with or without tilt-back, can be accomplished by initially accelerating the wheel to the front of the rider. Tilt-back is the invitation to do exactly this. In particular, if the rider does not adapt to the changing neutral tilt angle, the wheel accelerates (without the rider and quickly). This acceleration requires some additional power (less than the acceleration of wheel and rider). With the knee-bending trick applied immediately, the additional power to initiate braking can at higher speeds probably be reduced to zero.
  11. How to Fall

    Is there a way to keep this topic uncluttered? I think the forum should come up with some essential topics with minimal content that is considered essential. For example: -Protective Gear. -Learning to ride. -Learning to Fall. https://youtu.be/tUJwUUAiT4o https://youtu.be/gV2xiTodph8 -How to prevent cut-outs.
  12. Are the Inmotion devices such as the V5F and V8 UL certified? Have there ever been any reports of fires or battery explosions with their products? I've been trying to decide between a V5F+ and a Segway S1 which is UL 2272 certified, but the Inmotion website doesn't mention any sort of safety certifications. The V5F definitely has preferable specs to me, but I'm concerned about safety after seeing so many reports of hoverboard fires.
  13. Are there certain types that protect more surface area than others? Drug store therapist wrist braces seems to cover more area but do they protect the hard fall? Or should we use products designed for a specific sport, like snow boarding etc? Some of the wrist guards have splints in them. Is that a better choice? Interested to know what are you all wearing for wrists? Links to products would be awesome.
  14. Baby Proofing the "On" Switch

    Does anyone have any ideas about baby/child proofing the on/off switches on an Electric Unicycle? My eight month old is crawling all over the place and has developed a great affinity for anything that looks interesting, especially buttons. So far I have come up with cutting the top half off of a plastic medicine bottle (with a child proof top) and then glueing it over the button? (I have a NB1 E+) I do store my wheel on it's side and out of the way but would like to make extra sure that it is completely safe. Do any EUC models have a lock mechanism, to prevent unintentional activation?
  15. Who Uses a Safety Strap?

    Having ridden all of 15 days, I was wondering whether or not more experienced EUC riders ride with a safety strap.
  16. I hope this is a useful poll to learn more about which protection gear forum members typically use and how serious injuries from EUCing are.
  17. The only thing to make euc safe for everyone is if euc factories stop bragging about max speed and instead invent stronger engines motherboards , larger battery packs with higher C values and use this strengt to improve safety instead of max speed with cut outs and broken bones , this should be like 1+1=2 but it isnt right now , its more like 1+1=5 , I suggest max speed should be 35-40 kmh with this new improvements larger strengt , its about how to make euc as an serious safe vehicle in traffic for everyone instead of a toy to use in the backyard for kids
  18. Safety speed with your EUC

    Hello, French Wheeler, but not as good as some other, I had a bad accident (broken shoulder, now with some metal!!) with my small ninebot one E+... and I spent some time in order to understant why we face cut out or accidents. So, on the forums, I could recognize 4 kind of accidents : 1- Pilot did ignore alarm.... nothing to say.... too optimistic, 2- driving accident (bumps....), 3- Sudden cut off.... (looks like my accident, but I'm not sure it wasn't a technical failure), 4- Technical failure. Rare since construcors did improve the safety...or correct bugs (BMS for instance). For the point 3, I did some calculation, that shows that specification of constructors seems to be far too optimistic, and the speed alarm does not consider the wheight of the pilot... which has a huge impact. What I did consider is a common case of accident : you run on flat road, no alarm, straight... and you have a small slope (not big, couple of meters long!). So immedialtely, since you do not consider you have to slow dow, your Wheel has to give all power in order to maintain the speed during the slope. In this condition, considering a 10% slope (not big at all, it is a 6° angle road), what is the maximum speed you can run? I did consider air drag, which has a big influence over 30 km/h), the solpe that I consider as a safety margin, and the wheight of the pilot. The power was considered as constant whaterver the speed is (optimistic), and, since nobody know the duration of the peak's power, 0,5 second for this peak (which is only use for bumps in fact!). Yield of the Wheel in order to transform electrical energy to mechanical energy is estimated at 75% (tests on some gotways). What do we calculate show that with a 500 W, at 25 km/h, you're not save at all... except if you are a kid. On a gotway ACM our MS3, 45 km/h is not a realistic speed since air drag consume most of the power... What do you think? Conclusions : - Power, and slow speed is the key for safety... - Adapt speed limit cosidering your wheight, - If you want to keep the hight speed limit, go quiet, and in all case, use protections!!! Of course, this is only my caclulation, an you can disagree! EUC safety speed.xlsx
  19. It breaks my heart to see people faceplant and get hurt from time to time so I'd like to share an exercise / riding safety notes that I've come up with having ridden about 6 - 7 thousand kms and having faceplanted quite a few times due to various reasons. The exercise is very simple and it is based on the simple premise that ( due to the current state of technology) one should assume that his wheel can cut out unexpectedly at any given time. 1. As you ride ( especially on sidewalk) , mentally extend your path / direction of travel and per the current speed imagine the distance / corridor required ahead of you for your body to propell forward if the wheel cuts out at the current moment 2. Make sure there are no objects that would intersect this corridor. So if you fall right now you will not hit things like sidewalk benches with sharp corners, light poles, fences, etc 3. Learn to predict that other moving objects can intersect your "fall corridor" by the time you reach them. For example there may be nothing if your path now but 1 second away from now a store door may open and someone will come out that you will collide with by the time your body reaches them. Also leave some wiggle room for unaware pedestrians to move into your path of travel unexpectedly 4. Practice this trick while riding for a little while and then you will start doing this subconciously and this will become your 2nd nature. You can still ride actively, accelerate, brake, twist and turn and still stay within the confines of this criteria/ exercise. 5. Also remember to not keep hands in your pockets while riding. You will need your hands and arms in front of your body when falling. If you need to reach for your phone in your pocket - get in the habbit of slowing down to the speed at which you can run off and then reach for the phone. Holidng a cup of coffee and a donut in your hand is probably ok, but if your hands are in the pockets while going fast, you will not have time to take them out to protect your body/ head 6. Another simple trick which increases pedestrian awareness is this : when you have pedestrians walking towards you, before you reach them, ride a bit from side to side in a wavy kind of motion sort of like when skiing, to exxagerate the path width you need. This will make them step aside a bit and expect a wide range of movement from you. This is very effective. However when you reach the pedestrian stop waving from side to side and ride a straight line some distance away and slower than a few seconds earlier. This is the safest way to avoid collisions. 7. All many people already know a simple $1 bicycle bell placed on your finger can go a long way in informing the pedestrians that are walking in the same direction in front of you that you are approaching. Its better to use specifically the bicycle bell sound as subconciously people are used to that sound and will perceive you as the bicycle behind them and will be aware and/ or step aside. Dont use other sounds as their brains will be confused as to what it is and they may have an unpredictable reaction to it
  20. I'm an early subscriber to Casey Neistat, started watching him years ago when he just started the vlog, didn't had 30 eps on it and watched everything.. anyways.. There where a lot of Celebrities the last couple of years riding mostly hoverboards and i was caught in that trend from summer of 2014. Nowdays celebrities stopped using them but still there are some like Casey who daily commutes with one. He always rides something from a car to a vespa to a hoverboard and lately loves his boosterboard which he owns more than 3 if i recollect. Recently he got the v2 of the main model. About 8 hours before this thread he posted another vlog, like he does everyday, which he crashlanded while riding his boosterboard, video at the end of the post. He says that he was going about 2-3mph and he stomped on a piece of concrete that was a bit displaced like a hole in the ground which seams, he damaged his arm and hand, probably hit a bit hard from what it seams. The camera had a broken lens motor and cap, also latest Samsung Note 7 was smashed and his rolex watch. From what i can understand he may have been on his phone at the time, anyways.. This thread has many sub meanings, one is that celebrities tend to create trends like the electric vehicle movement, we wouldn't know if they didn't use it on youtube videos, next is the safety of a ride, don't get to much acquainted with your equipment like phones cameras etc or you'll just miss something and get from offbalance to smashing your face on the ground or worse. And last the trend of the hoverboards, governments banning the hell out of them, new pre-emptive regulations that may group even our unicycles and such. I think that there is a need of some proper rules and guidelines for our electric-sport.. and maybe it's time to start building that list. What's your opinion? Next video of Casey, spoilers he doesn't film the fall that's why i think he was on his phone when it happen..
  21. Got some scissor skills practice to provide extra safety to my miniPro's: All it takes is 10 min plus some 3M reflective tape. Red tape on red spokes and grey/white on grey one.
  22. The reason why there are speed warnings and tilt-backs (even tilt-forward for my gotway Msuper) is to avoid that the rider falls forward while accelerating because the engine, the converter cannot deliver that high CURRENT, while he is able to work at that voltage. But strange enough, the warnings, the alarms and tilt-backs depend from speed (which is proportional with the voltage) instead of current. You would still say: so what? Well, if you are climbing a steep hill of 35 degrees and you are 120kg and you accelerate very fast on this hill from 0 to 20km/h. You wouldn't even hear a warning before falling because your speed is OK (less than 20km/h) but the engine and the converter cannot deliver that high current: current is proportional with the load (=weight, inclination and accelaration). voltage is proportional with the speed (motor speed and unicycle speed). Also for braking, once I had braked heavily and my gotway msuper did a tilt-forward, to make me clear that he cannot brake that fast. Again without warning. since my speed was ok, besides I was braking so of course there will be no warnings for brakings: but it should. I became a little unstable due to tilt forward during braking but again this is a current and load issue not a speed and voltage issue. why don't they focus to current to make the unicycle safer. The voltage nearly rests the same for all moments: 52-68 volt:empty, full, high speed, low speed, braking, accelerating. always between 52-68. But the current can go from minus 50 amperes to plus 50 amperes: a huge difference and the most restricting factor for the capabilities of the product. If we look at the progression in the car industry in the last 2 centuries, one can give an example for safe braking to compare with the safe accelerating on the euc's. They make an ABS system to make you brake safer. They don't say: "you are braking, your intention is to stop, and stopping is safe, so you are in the good way. you don't need a ABS. you may brake and slip when you brake from 200km/h to 0km/h in a rainy environment and due to slipping you may make an accident and die." But the engineers of euc do still need time to make the euc safer, not slower, safer by inventing the current warning system. No? I think the reason is: current can change instantly (accelerating from zero or hard braking at high speed) and warnings should not have an impact by that time, while speed increases slowly (e.g. 3 seconds from 0 to 30km/h), then it has sense to send an alarm at 25km/h and by the time you hear it and you stop accelerating you ride already 35km/h. If the warning would be at 33km/h, by the time you hear the alarm you would be at 44km/h and you would have fallen. But for people want to accelerate slowly the alarms at low speed levels is not relevant. Engineers... am I correct?
  23. It's on the news elsewhere too. https://www.hoodriderz.com/blogs/news/101180161-ninebot-obtains-the-worlds-first-us-ul2272-safety-certification-authorization-certificate-for-self-balancing-vehicles
  24. Please take a look at the product demonstration here With hoverboard fires being a huge concern for some people, all of us here at SegYourWay have teamed up to bring a simple, yet effective Fire Resistant Hoverboag. This bag has been designed to contain any explosion that a hoverboard can produce. This bag is also layered with a special carbon fiber coating which helps the bag to maintain its shape during an explosion or fire. The Hoverbag can be used for charging, and storing of all 6.5 inch hoverboards. Arrives in 3-5 business days! Instructions: Plug in the hoverboard and place one end of the hoverboard in the Hoverbag. Then hold the Hoverbag while pushing the hoverboard into the bag until the board reaches the back of the Hoverbag. Once reached, grab both ends of the Velco strip, pull tight (apart), and seal. It is important that the Velcro has a flush seal to get full potential of the Hoverbag. Made in the USA Size: 35" long and 16" wide Equipped with a wide heavy duty Velcro strip Open charger wholes on both sides for user preference Light weight and portable For a video demonstration visit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0WvEJXB8Ao Have an 8 or 10 inch hoverboard? Send us an email to pre-order the new upcoming bigger sized Hoverbags.
  25. I’m going give a head to head comparison between the IPS Lhotz 340 and the T680+(a.k.a. “Tank” or 151/152, or T500 which is mentioned on the box; the fine art of marketing cleary has not trickled down to IPS yet ). I’ll split the review up in several parts, as this will make it easier to comment and/or ask questions. After combing through most threads on brands, BMS, motor, battery, FP or not to FP, etc., I count myself lucky to have bought a Lhotz340Wh (older version with torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH) august last year. So why did I buy the IPS 680+? Lhotz Design: The broader (2,5inch) and larger tyre which actually makes the wheel around >1inch bigger than the one of th IPS680+ results in good traction and stability. It has relatively long pedals (22cm, you can scrape the corner of the pedals on the ground in tight turns) so you can place your feet exactly where you want them depending on what you want to do, which improves control over the wheel. The pedals are made of solid painted aluminum, they are not that thick and I tend to feel some flex (real flex or the hinges, fixtures?). Because of the paint the pedals are quite slippery when wet, this is nothing a patch of skate board tape cannot cure. The body (15cm wide) tapers off towards the edges and there’s no protruding battery housing at the top, so there’s room for the inner side of your calfs (no pressure) and you can put your feet close to the center which is great for stability and control. As a consequence the biggest pressure is on the inside of the ankles instead of the calfs. There’s here and there in strategic places soft rubber-like bright red padding (the brownread stuff on the pictures is my doing), with a high friction surface which is great for improving control over the wheel. The case has broad cut-outs front and back, so negotiation small obstacles like branches on the road poses no problem at all. The Lhotz is very sturdy by design, no rattles or creaks if you pressure it, and the handle is stainless steel so it doesn’t break even if you wheel bounces downhill without you. This all comes at a weight penalty of course: 14 kg. The round stainless tube of which the handle is made doesn’t improve the weight perception when carrying it, it’s slippery and cold in winter (I’m now using a samsonite belt to carry it). I don’t understand why IPS put a plastic slide-on charging port cover on it, which doesn’t stick for more than a minute. To save weight perhaps, really??? (I replaced it by an aftermarket metal screw cap)The battery charger is a very light box with an active cooling system (which doesn’t inspire a lot of trust, what happens if the ventilator dies?), and a US style wall plug (an EU adapter was sold separately) Verdict: Excellent Lhotz Safety: The Lhotz has enough torque to cope with my 100Kg adequately but it’s not perfect, I’ve had 2 FP, 1 overtorqueing when acceleration too fast from standstill, and 1 on a slight downward slope riding in a pit when at it’s cruising speed. When I push the weel, I can feel it (the motor?) struggling and (I believe) the BMS sometimes cuts in fractions of a second when the battery is drained too fast. I’ve experienced no BMS cut-outs though; when the batt level decreases the pedals start tilting at lower speeds and the weel starts beeping if you try to push it, even at very low speeds the tiltback is quite strong so there seems to be plenty of reserve programmed into the BMS. Therefor I would consider the Lhotz by design a relatively safe wheel, the flipside is that below 50% batt level the wheel is no fun to ride at all, and it’s game over below 30%. Verdict: Very good Lhotz Range/speed: Even with the torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH, it doesn’t feel that stable at the 17KmH cruising speed (see safety topic above). At 17KmH cruising speed, it drains 50% of the battery in about 12km. I live in a small village, and for shopping, the library, public administration, etc. I have to commute to the main village of the region which is at 5km one way. 12Km max range is not enough, driving around a bit for the shopping, windy conditions, low temp, and I barely can get home. There’s no fun in carrying a 14kg wheel, believe me, this causes me quite a bit of range anxiety. My wife already had to come and ‘save’ me by car, because I forgot the evening before that I rode just a very short distance and didn’t charge it to a full 100% (I try to avoid this because it’s not good for the battery). So if a guy of my size needs a cruising range of >15Km at a cruising speed of 20-25KmH, 340Wh is nearly not enough. Adequate. Which brings me to my choice of the T680+: Looking around, I saw no 16” alternatives from a reputed brand with such a big battery and a proven design (the KS16 is brand new). With the T680+ I hope to find (almost) the same build quality, high torque motor, and decent safety features, all this for a price of 1,129.- USD (delivery and taxes included) delivered to my door in Belgium straight from the IamIPS factory in just 12 days.
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