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Found 31 results

  1. hey riders, a few hours ago I flew right across a hood going approx 10-15kph on my wheel. A car driver crossed the bicycle lane turning right into a shopping center without giving a second thought to me. Luckily I wore almost full protection (no helmet!) and only my wrist guards got scratched. The wheel came to a halt running into a hedge. did you get in familiar situations? I can only guess some inattentive drivers mistake EUC riders for pedestrians. The accident happened in daylight, though for me this is the final wake up call to always wear my full face downhill helmet from now on. I might even order some extra lights for the helmet as well as one of those ugly high visibility vests. btw I was so stunned by the behaviour that I forgot to swear and claim a new pair of unscratched wrist guards. Guess I got off cheaply today. (the car driver too)
  2. I wonder if this can even be pinned down to any coherent answer, riders and wheels both being built so differently, but humor me if you will and share your opinions and/or experiences. Do you step off your machine when a curb comes along? Do you go up or down stairs on your wheel? Jump? Do you slow down or speed up to do it? How safe do you think it is to do any of that, either for your health or your machine? Would you recommend it or advise against? And do you yourself practice what you might think should be preached?
  3. Dear EUC Pioneers, Nothing spoils the joy of EUC riding more than a painful accident. For pure luck, I was spared any serious injuries so far, but when I'm honest to myself, that's way more due to luck than skill. Any fall at higher speed and I am way out of my league to cope with that. Most likely, I end up flat on my face, ruining arms and knees on the way down. Inside our Berlin riding group, we got such a wake up call lately, when one of the members shattered his forearm just days after receiving his shiny new high performance wheel. That got us thinking. As we don't know about any established EUC safety training, we attempt to invent our own. Here you will find a first concept along with the friendly request to contribute your ideas and feedback. Of course all of you are more than welcome to copy, use and improve all or part of it - it's positively Public Domain! Status: First Draft, June 4, 2017 by Tilmann Exercises Mounting / Starting: Training Goal: Mount and start from flat ground without assistance without leaving a narrow track (approx. 1 foot wide) Activity: Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape and start trying... Training Goal: Max. accellaration w/o ‘overlean’, i.e. achieve the fastest possible acceleration without overstressing the wheels power. Activity: Force an ‘overlean’ at safe speed and ‘run-off’ (should not be difficult with a weak 350W motor). Repeat the exercise to find the best leaning angle that just works. Braking: Training Goal: Break to a stop in minimum distance (from a straight path). Activity: At very low riding speed, lean back violently to force a motor cut-out. Repeat the exercise to find the angle with best braking action. Training Goal: Break to a stop in minimum distance (from a turn). Activity: No idea, we just have to try... Riding / Stabilizing: Training Goal: Master uneven ground (tree roots, potholes, street curbs, speed bumpers, etc.). Activity: depends on what the respective playground has to offer. Ideally, include some round rods that roll away when you ride over them. Training Goal: Circumvent static obstacles (like the ever so popular bicycle barriers). Include ducking under higher obstacles like branches and gates (“ewheel limbo”). Activity: Various obstacles will be simulated with tape. Supporters to hold the tape in mid air for the ducking exercises. Training Goal: Master dynamic obstacles (something/somebody surprisingly runs in your path). Activity: A wider track (approx. 3 feet) is marked on the gound. While the trainee rides on the track at safe speed, a supporter on the ground is challenged to get the rider off the wheel by throwing a soft inflatable ball from a distance at the rider or in his way. Training Goal: Master inclines and down hill. Activity: Using the weak 350W training wheel, we excercise riding up and down the steepest incline we can find. Ideally, the incline is steep enough to overstress the wheel to cut-out at safe speed. The training ground needs to provide a safe “landing zone” for the rider and the wheel as provoked dismounts on the incline are part of the training. Training Goal: Change foot position while riding. Activity: Train to ride with just one foot on the pedal. Begin with placing the strong leg on the wheel and use the weaker leg for “skateboarding” the wheel in a straight line. Exercise, until you master several feet riding on one leg without touching the ground with the other. Gradually increase difficulty with switching legs, increasing distance and speed and including turns. Once you can lift a foot while riding, changing foot position on the pedal is a piece of cake. Variation: Include exercises to sit down on the wheel and stand up again while riding. This will also build up balancing and stability. Check training effect by mounting and starting with choosing a wrong foot position on purpose, then correct it when in motion. Training Goal: Minimum speed riding. Activity: Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape. Mark a start and a finish line. Train to ride the track as slow as possible without leaving the track, putting a foot down or reversing. Have a supporter take the actual riding time. Training Goal: Look behind while riding. Activity: Mark like 3 cardboards with letter easily readable from a distance. Mark a narrow track on the ground with tape. After the rider passed a supporter on the side, the helper holds up a card board and calls the rider. The trainee then tries to look backwards and call out the respective letter without driving off track in the process. Gradually increase the difficulty by moving the supporter closer to the track until he is placed straight behind the driver. Also gradually increase riding speed. Training Goal: Pass others on a narrow track. Activity: We mark a narrow track on the ground with tape (approx. 2 feet wide). Two trainees try passing each other either by overtaking or by riding the track in opposite direction without crossing the track borders. Training Goal: Master wind gusts. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to produce strong enough wind gusts without a helluva effort or random help from mother nature. EDIT: Added after suggestion from @Dingfelder: Training Goal: Improve balance and confidence when turning. Activity: Set up a slalom course using little traffic cones (cheap from amazon, ebay, etc.). Master such training courses with gradually increased difficulty and speed. EDIT: Added after suggestion from @Mono: Training Goal: Understand the importance to always ride with "soft knees" to be prepared for the unforeseen. Activity: Very, very cautious and slow ride over a prepared obstacle with completely straight legs ("locked knees"). Start with really small obstacles as the risk of injury is high. Stop the exercise when you got an impression, how fast balance is lost when riding with locked knees.
  4. I was looking for recommendations for a headlamp that would fit well on my helmet ( Ideally the headlamp would be rechargeable, have different light modes (like strobe effect) and also a rear light for added visibility. Here's one I've found on Amazon, but before purchasing I wanted to try and get some feedback from the forum to see what others may be using or have for input. Thanks!
  5. Got some scissor skills practice to provide extra safety to my miniPro's: All it takes is 10 min plus some 3M reflective tape. Red tape on red spokes and grey/white on grey one.
  6. Tilt-back is a mechanism to incentivise the rider to slow down. The mechanism is simple: the neutral inclination angle of the shell and hence the pedals is changed from horizontal to negative, tilting the pedals back This gives the rider the incentive to initiate a slow down (see also below). Here I discuss my understanding of the energetic (and a few other) consequences of tilt-back. Remember the feeling to lose the ground under your feet when the tilt-back sets in? Here is why. Simple geometric consideration reveals that if the riders feet stay in contact with the pedals, tilt-back raises the riders front feet and lowers the riders heels. Lowering ones heels feels like losing support and means that the riders body lowers as well if the heels remain grounded. The effect from the centre of mass: most of the work to raise the riders body (or the toes ) is done by muscles, hence the energy comes from the food the rider has digested. (Lifting 102kg by 1cm loss-free needs about 10W=102*9.81*0.01W for one second or 100W for 0.1s thereby adding 2.78mWh=10/60^2Wh=0.0024kcal to the potential energy of the rider). However not only the rider needs to work: when the wheel pushes the rider forward (or backward), straightening up or raising the riders body adds momentarily to the riders perceived weight and hence to the power demand of the wheel. Vice versa, bending the knees or lowering the body gives the wheel a short period of decreased power demand (perceived decreased rider weight). Lowering by 5cm would remove the entire rider weight for 1/10 of a second. This is definitely something one should exploit in any critical situation: the reflex of bending the knees to keep or restore the wheel under the rider is a life saver! I had two or three quite surprising saves from intentionally going rapidly-almost-falling-like deep into the knees. Unfortunately, going deep into the knees is particularly difficult and somewhat physically limited under tilt-back. Yet, soft knees are our suspension. Soft knees get us over bumps and out of potholes. Bending knees is THE invaluable reflex when riding an EUC. But I digress... First summary: when tilt-back sets in, the riders heels lower and (without body posture change) the riders centre of mass lowers and this leads to a small but possibly notable power demand reduction. The effect from the change of tilt angle (here I stand corrected): because changing the tilt angle backwards increases the speed of the motor traveling relative to the shell, changing the angle requires energy. The amount however seems to be rather miniscule. If we travel 20km/h=5.6m/s with an 18" EUC and change the tilt angle from 0º to -10º in 1 second (pretty scary, IMHO), the shell position changes over the wheel circumference by 4cm = 10/360 * 18" * π. Hence, the circumferential rotation speed increases for 1 second by 0.72% = 0.04m/5.6m, i.e. by less than one percent. I am actually not sure what the power demand of this mechanism is (between 0 and 1.4% seems a good guess), but to all I can tell it must be negligible. Tilting the wheel also lowers its centre of mass. Lowering 20kg by 1cm in 1s may deliver 2W for 1s at most. Second summary: all in all, I do not dare to decide whether the effect from titling the wheel saves or demands a very small amount of energy. For the remainder, the simple but conclusive approach is to considered energy conservation: any consumed energy from the battery must be converted into kinetic energy or potential energy or heat. After the tilt angle has changed, from the energy balance perspective nothing is different to the situation before. If the wheel consumes additional energy, it produces more torque. More torque leads to acceleration (hence energy is converted to and conserved as kinetic energy), just as it happens without tilt-back or while the tilt-back sets in. Some people feel that under tilt-back they seem to apply more pressure to the front foot, or equivalently, that the wheel applies more up-pressure. This means that the wheel produces more torque to provide this counter pressure. Torque however invariably leads to acceleration of the wheel (or the wheel and the rider). The other way around, if the wheel does not accelerate, this feeling is a perception due to the uncomfortable foot position but not actually an increased up-pressure. Finally, slowing down the wheel, with or without tilt-back, can be accomplished by initially accelerating the wheel to the front of the rider. Tilt-back is the invitation to do exactly this. In particular, if the rider does not adapt to the changing neutral tilt angle, the wheel accelerates (without the rider and quickly). This acceleration requires some additional power (less than the acceleration of wheel and rider). With the knee-bending trick applied immediately, the additional power to initiate braking can at higher speeds probably be reduced to zero.
  7. Is there a way to keep this topic uncluttered? I think the forum should come up with some essential topics with minimal content that is considered essential. For example: -Protective Gear. -Learning to ride. -Learning to Fall. -How to prevent cut-outs.
  8. Are the Inmotion devices such as the V5F and V8 UL certified? Have there ever been any reports of fires or battery explosions with their products? I've been trying to decide between a V5F+ and a Segway S1 which is UL 2272 certified, but the Inmotion website doesn't mention any sort of safety certifications. The V5F definitely has preferable specs to me, but I'm concerned about safety after seeing so many reports of hoverboard fires.
  9. List here different maneuvers here to make yourself a better rider or to have safe fun....
  10. Are there certain types that protect more surface area than others? Drug store therapist wrist braces seems to cover more area but do they protect the hard fall? Or should we use products designed for a specific sport, like snow boarding etc? Some of the wrist guards have splints in them. Is that a better choice? Interested to know what are you all wearing for wrists? Links to products would be awesome.
  11. Does anyone have any ideas about baby/child proofing the on/off switches on an Electric Unicycle? My eight month old is crawling all over the place and has developed a great affinity for anything that looks interesting, especially buttons. So far I have come up with cutting the top half off of a plastic medicine bottle (with a child proof top) and then glueing it over the button? (I have a NB1 E+) I do store my wheel on it's side and out of the way but would like to make extra sure that it is completely safe. Do any EUC models have a lock mechanism, to prevent unintentional activation?
  12. Having ridden all of 15 days, I was wondering whether or not more experienced EUC riders ride with a safety strap.
  13. I hope this is a useful poll to learn more about which protection gear forum members typically use and how serious injuries from EUCing are.
  14. Now it's personal. This is the master list of micro unicycle brands, categorized by safe electrical behavior. This is the thread to read if you want to buy a uni that "doesn't actively try to kill you" (@esaj). Problem One: BMS shutdown Most popular low-priced generic style brands, and many other popular brands of the last generation, are made with an electric bicycle style battery management system (BMS). This part can try to protect the battery and shut down instead of protecting the rider, even in the best conditions. This means, the unit stops working unexpectedly. This WILL happen one day if you have a uni with this design, because as the battery ages the likelihood of this phenomenon occurring increases. It is possible to modify the badly designed BMS using the "shunt mod." To be absolutely clear, a modified BMS is not the same as having a unicycle that was designed correctly from the start. Examples include Airwheel, Firewheel, TG, Rockwheel, early Gotway designs, many other brand names, and most generic imported models. Even Ninebot has a battery management system with unknown variations. Problem Two: Main board shutdown As the battery gets lower, the voltage decreases. With lower voltage, a higher current is needed to produce the same power to the motor as with higher voltage. This causes heat, and if it gets too hot, the unicycle will shut down. This problem is solved in units with safe low-battery behavior, for example Ninebot has a slow operation on low battery. Speed can also cause main board shutdown. Most brands tilt back and beep to tell you to stop going faster, and some talk to you. Some unicycles will just go faster and faster until they turn off because the motor can't take it anymore. Gotway, Firewheel, and Rockwheel are examples that will experience a speed-cliff type mainboard shutdown ie designed to kill. The goal: An electric unicycle must NEVER, EVER, EVER turn itself off unexpectedly. Ever. This phenomenon must be designed out of the equation. Manufacturer established solutions: Solution one (BMS Shutdown): Better BMS design. The battery management system has no way to conduct shutdown. Low battery tiltback / slow down. When the battery is low, instead of allowing normal riding, the unit slows down or tilts back to make it difficult to ride. Solution two (Mainboard Shutdown): Better main board behavior. Locking low battery - The unicycle should warn the rider of a low battery extra early, and slow to a stop entirely when riding is unsafe. The uni will be non-functional while still partially charged, and will not be ridable until it is charged again. This is called locking low battery behavior, and both Ninebot and King Song have behaviors close enough to this to solve the problem. High Speed tiltback - Almost every brand of unicycle avoids high speed shutdown by tilting back at high speed, so that the user can't push the uni past its limit. Every brand except Gotway, Firewheel, and Rockwheel and a few others are safe in this way. The high-speed warnings, however, must be obvious enough to truly protect the rider from pushing too hard. Solution three (batteries being sold are too small) This is on you! Buy the biggest battery you can afford. If you're going high speed, don't settle for 340wh or less. Look for something 600wh or above. And leave some wiggle room at the end of your battery no matter what; don't use the full range. Incomplete list of brands Very Dangerous: TG / OEM models of the same design - All models have both problems. F-wheel - BMS shutdown, maybe mainboard too. Suggested "buy to find out quality." SML / OEM models of the same design - All models have both problems. Airwheel - All models have both problems. Firewheel - All models have both problems. Firstwheel - All models have both problems. Rockwheel - All models have both problems. Fosjoas - All models have both problems. Suoku - All models have both problems. Huanxi - BMS is unconfirmed as safe, but has safe low battery behavior. Less Dangerous: Gotway - Older versions have both problems. Newer versions just have problem 2. Inmotion - Could be safe. Awaiting answers from manufacturer. IPS - Problem #2 has been documented in the forums. Safest: King Song - All of the problems documented here are addressed in all known models. The safest brand available right now. Please submit arguments! Ninebot (early models may have bad BMS). Despite their size, it is difficult to get answers from them about this issue. The only brand that is documented to shut down due to overcharge going downhill. This occurs on full battery because of regenerative braking. Can people submit comments about other brands that do this? Solowheel - Probably safe; need more detail. Obviously this list is nowhere near complete. Any input or criticism of the thinking presented here is more than welcome! No one here can do this alone. As the trend setters, we need to to make sure that new people getting started with this technology, and in particular innocent bystanders, will all be as safe as possible. Conclusion: There are solutions to all of these problems, but most manufacturers aren't implementing them. If we don't solve this problem, electric unicycles WILL hurt people, not only riders but bystanders as well. ALL electric unicycles will eventually become demonized in the public image, and will likely be made illegal or heavily regulated in many locales. Thus, any trade off is not only worth it, but entirely necessary. Any manufacturers who won't comply with these safety requirements need to be publicly exposed and driven out of the market. We need to protect new riders from manufacturers who don't care about their safety. So, anyone know other brands with confirmed electrical characteristics that are definitely safe / unsafe with regards to unexpected shutdowns?
  15. The only thing to make euc safe for everyone is if euc factories stop bragging about max speed and instead invent stronger engines motherboards , larger battery packs with higher C values and use this strengt to improve safety instead of max speed with cut outs and broken bones , this should be like 1+1=2 but it isnt right now , its more like 1+1=5 , I suggest max speed should be 35-40 kmh with this new improvements larger strengt , its about how to make euc as an serious safe vehicle in traffic for everyone instead of a toy to use in the backyard for kids
  16. Hello, French Wheeler, but not as good as some other, I had a bad accident (broken shoulder, now with some metal!!) with my small ninebot one E+... and I spent some time in order to understant why we face cut out or accidents. So, on the forums, I could recognize 4 kind of accidents : 1- Pilot did ignore alarm.... nothing to say.... too optimistic, 2- driving accident (bumps....), 3- Sudden cut off.... (looks like my accident, but I'm not sure it wasn't a technical failure), 4- Technical failure. Rare since construcors did improve the safety...or correct bugs (BMS for instance). For the point 3, I did some calculation, that shows that specification of constructors seems to be far too optimistic, and the speed alarm does not consider the wheight of the pilot... which has a huge impact. What I did consider is a common case of accident : you run on flat road, no alarm, straight... and you have a small slope (not big, couple of meters long!). So immedialtely, since you do not consider you have to slow dow, your Wheel has to give all power in order to maintain the speed during the slope. In this condition, considering a 10% slope (not big at all, it is a 6° angle road), what is the maximum speed you can run? I did consider air drag, which has a big influence over 30 km/h), the solpe that I consider as a safety margin, and the wheight of the pilot. The power was considered as constant whaterver the speed is (optimistic), and, since nobody know the duration of the peak's power, 0,5 second for this peak (which is only use for bumps in fact!). Yield of the Wheel in order to transform electrical energy to mechanical energy is estimated at 75% (tests on some gotways). What do we calculate show that with a 500 W, at 25 km/h, you're not save at all... except if you are a kid. On a gotway ACM our MS3, 45 km/h is not a realistic speed since air drag consume most of the power... What do you think? Conclusions : - Power, and slow speed is the key for safety... - Adapt speed limit cosidering your wheight, - If you want to keep the hight speed limit, go quiet, and in all case, use protections!!! Of course, this is only my caclulation, an you can disagree! EUC safety speed.xlsx
  17. It breaks my heart to see people faceplant and get hurt from time to time so I'd like to share an exercise / riding safety notes that I've come up with having ridden about 6 - 7 thousand kms and having faceplanted quite a few times due to various reasons. The exercise is very simple and it is based on the simple premise that ( due to the current state of technology) one should assume that his wheel can cut out unexpectedly at any given time. 1. As you ride ( especially on sidewalk) , mentally extend your path / direction of travel and per the current speed imagine the distance / corridor required ahead of you for your body to propell forward if the wheel cuts out at the current moment 2. Make sure there are no objects that would intersect this corridor. So if you fall right now you will not hit things like sidewalk benches with sharp corners, light poles, fences, etc 3. Learn to predict that other moving objects can intersect your "fall corridor" by the time you reach them. For example there may be nothing if your path now but 1 second away from now a store door may open and someone will come out that you will collide with by the time your body reaches them. Also leave some wiggle room for unaware pedestrians to move into your path of travel unexpectedly 4. Practice this trick while riding for a little while and then you will start doing this subconciously and this will become your 2nd nature. You can still ride actively, accelerate, brake, twist and turn and still stay within the confines of this criteria/ exercise. 5. Also remember to not keep hands in your pockets while riding. You will need your hands and arms in front of your body when falling. If you need to reach for your phone in your pocket - get in the habbit of slowing down to the speed at which you can run off and then reach for the phone. Holidng a cup of coffee and a donut in your hand is probably ok, but if your hands are in the pockets while going fast, you will not have time to take them out to protect your body/ head 6. Another simple trick which increases pedestrian awareness is this : when you have pedestrians walking towards you, before you reach them, ride a bit from side to side in a wavy kind of motion sort of like when skiing, to exxagerate the path width you need. This will make them step aside a bit and expect a wide range of movement from you. This is very effective. However when you reach the pedestrian stop waving from side to side and ride a straight line some distance away and slower than a few seconds earlier. This is the safest way to avoid collisions. 7. All many people already know a simple $1 bicycle bell placed on your finger can go a long way in informing the pedestrians that are walking in the same direction in front of you that you are approaching. Its better to use specifically the bicycle bell sound as subconciously people are used to that sound and will perceive you as the bicycle behind them and will be aware and/ or step aside. Dont use other sounds as their brains will be confused as to what it is and they may have an unpredictable reaction to it
  18. I'm an early subscriber to Casey Neistat, started watching him years ago when he just started the vlog, didn't had 30 eps on it and watched everything.. anyways.. There where a lot of Celebrities the last couple of years riding mostly hoverboards and i was caught in that trend from summer of 2014. Nowdays celebrities stopped using them but still there are some like Casey who daily commutes with one. He always rides something from a car to a vespa to a hoverboard and lately loves his boosterboard which he owns more than 3 if i recollect. Recently he got the v2 of the main model. About 8 hours before this thread he posted another vlog, like he does everyday, which he crashlanded while riding his boosterboard, video at the end of the post. He says that he was going about 2-3mph and he stomped on a piece of concrete that was a bit displaced like a hole in the ground which seams, he damaged his arm and hand, probably hit a bit hard from what it seams. The camera had a broken lens motor and cap, also latest Samsung Note 7 was smashed and his rolex watch. From what i can understand he may have been on his phone at the time, anyways.. This thread has many sub meanings, one is that celebrities tend to create trends like the electric vehicle movement, we wouldn't know if they didn't use it on youtube videos, next is the safety of a ride, don't get to much acquainted with your equipment like phones cameras etc or you'll just miss something and get from offbalance to smashing your face on the ground or worse. And last the trend of the hoverboards, governments banning the hell out of them, new pre-emptive regulations that may group even our unicycles and such. I think that there is a need of some proper rules and guidelines for our electric-sport.. and maybe it's time to start building that list. What's your opinion? Next video of Casey, spoilers he doesn't film the fall that's why i think he was on his phone when it happen..
  19. The reason why there are speed warnings and tilt-backs (even tilt-forward for my gotway Msuper) is to avoid that the rider falls forward while accelerating because the engine, the converter cannot deliver that high CURRENT, while he is able to work at that voltage. But strange enough, the warnings, the alarms and tilt-backs depend from speed (which is proportional with the voltage) instead of current. You would still say: so what? Well, if you are climbing a steep hill of 35 degrees and you are 120kg and you accelerate very fast on this hill from 0 to 20km/h. You wouldn't even hear a warning before falling because your speed is OK (less than 20km/h) but the engine and the converter cannot deliver that high current: current is proportional with the load (=weight, inclination and accelaration). voltage is proportional with the speed (motor speed and unicycle speed). Also for braking, once I had braked heavily and my gotway msuper did a tilt-forward, to make me clear that he cannot brake that fast. Again without warning. since my speed was ok, besides I was braking so of course there will be no warnings for brakings: but it should. I became a little unstable due to tilt forward during braking but again this is a current and load issue not a speed and voltage issue. why don't they focus to current to make the unicycle safer. The voltage nearly rests the same for all moments: 52-68 volt:empty, full, high speed, low speed, braking, accelerating. always between 52-68. But the current can go from minus 50 amperes to plus 50 amperes: a huge difference and the most restricting factor for the capabilities of the product. If we look at the progression in the car industry in the last 2 centuries, one can give an example for safe braking to compare with the safe accelerating on the euc's. They make an ABS system to make you brake safer. They don't say: "you are braking, your intention is to stop, and stopping is safe, so you are in the good way. you don't need a ABS. you may brake and slip when you brake from 200km/h to 0km/h in a rainy environment and due to slipping you may make an accident and die." But the engineers of euc do still need time to make the euc safer, not slower, safer by inventing the current warning system. No? I think the reason is: current can change instantly (accelerating from zero or hard braking at high speed) and warnings should not have an impact by that time, while speed increases slowly (e.g. 3 seconds from 0 to 30km/h), then it has sense to send an alarm at 25km/h and by the time you hear it and you stop accelerating you ride already 35km/h. If the warning would be at 33km/h, by the time you hear the alarm you would be at 44km/h and you would have fallen. But for people want to accelerate slowly the alarms at low speed levels is not relevant. Engineers... am I correct?
  20. It's on the news elsewhere too.
  21. I’m going give a head to head comparison between the IPS Lhotz 340 and the T680+(a.k.a. “Tank” or 151/152, or T500 which is mentioned on the box; the fine art of marketing cleary has not trickled down to IPS yet ). I’ll split the review up in several parts, as this will make it easier to comment and/or ask questions. After combing through most threads on brands, BMS, motor, battery, FP or not to FP, etc., I count myself lucky to have bought a Lhotz340Wh (older version with torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH) august last year. So why did I buy the IPS 680+? Lhotz Design: The broader (2,5inch) and larger tyre which actually makes the wheel around >1inch bigger than the one of th IPS680+ results in good traction and stability. It has relatively long pedals (22cm, you can scrape the corner of the pedals on the ground in tight turns) so you can place your feet exactly where you want them depending on what you want to do, which improves control over the wheel. The pedals are made of solid painted aluminum, they are not that thick and I tend to feel some flex (real flex or the hinges, fixtures?). Because of the paint the pedals are quite slippery when wet, this is nothing a patch of skate board tape cannot cure. The body (15cm wide) tapers off towards the edges and there’s no protruding battery housing at the top, so there’s room for the inner side of your calfs (no pressure) and you can put your feet close to the center which is great for stability and control. As a consequence the biggest pressure is on the inside of the ankles instead of the calfs. There’s here and there in strategic places soft rubber-like bright red padding (the brownread stuff on the pictures is my doing), with a high friction surface which is great for improving control over the wheel. The case has broad cut-outs front and back, so negotiation small obstacles like branches on the road poses no problem at all. The Lhotz is very sturdy by design, no rattles or creaks if you pressure it, and the handle is stainless steel so it doesn’t break even if you wheel bounces downhill without you. This all comes at a weight penalty of course: 14 kg. The round stainless tube of which the handle is made doesn’t improve the weight perception when carrying it, it’s slippery and cold in winter (I’m now using a samsonite belt to carry it). I don’t understand why IPS put a plastic slide-on charging port cover on it, which doesn’t stick for more than a minute. To save weight perhaps, really??? (I replaced it by an aftermarket metal screw cap)The battery charger is a very light box with an active cooling system (which doesn’t inspire a lot of trust, what happens if the ventilator dies?), and a US style wall plug (an EU adapter was sold separately) Verdict: Excellent Lhotz Safety: The Lhotz has enough torque to cope with my 100Kg adequately but it’s not perfect, I’ve had 2 FP, 1 overtorqueing when acceleration too fast from standstill, and 1 on a slight downward slope riding in a pit when at it’s cruising speed. When I push the weel, I can feel it (the motor?) struggling and (I believe) the BMS sometimes cuts in fractions of a second when the battery is drained too fast. I’ve experienced no BMS cut-outs though; when the batt level decreases the pedals start tilting at lower speeds and the weel starts beeping if you try to push it, even at very low speeds the tiltback is quite strong so there seems to be plenty of reserve programmed into the BMS. Therefor I would consider the Lhotz by design a relatively safe wheel, the flipside is that below 50% batt level the wheel is no fun to ride at all, and it’s game over below 30%. Verdict: Very good Lhotz Range/speed: Even with the torque biased motor, limited to 20KmH, it doesn’t feel that stable at the 17KmH cruising speed (see safety topic above). At 17KmH cruising speed, it drains 50% of the battery in about 12km. I live in a small village, and for shopping, the library, public administration, etc. I have to commute to the main village of the region which is at 5km one way. 12Km max range is not enough, driving around a bit for the shopping, windy conditions, low temp, and I barely can get home. There’s no fun in carrying a 14kg wheel, believe me, this causes me quite a bit of range anxiety. My wife already had to come and ‘save’ me by car, because I forgot the evening before that I rode just a very short distance and didn’t charge it to a full 100% (I try to avoid this because it’s not good for the battery). So if a guy of my size needs a cruising range of >15Km at a cruising speed of 20-25KmH, 340Wh is nearly not enough. Adequate. Which brings me to my choice of the T680+: Looking around, I saw no 16” alternatives from a reputed brand with such a big battery and a proven design (the KS16 is brand new). With the T680+ I hope to find (almost) the same build quality, high torque motor, and decent safety features, all this for a price of 1,129.- USD (delivery and taxes included) delivered to my door in Belgium straight from the IamIPS factory in just 12 days.
  22. All, I have noticed a few times, most recently this week in this discussion:, advice to "try charging it overnight" or "I charge it overnight so it is always ready the next morning" etc. The former in reference to a battery, charger, or control board that had a problem the user was trying to diagnose. Now a good quality charger, BMS and cells should be perfectly safe to do that providing none of the electronics fails in any way. However even good electronics might fail, and quality isn't always good. Above all, even if the risk is a tiny fraction of 1%, the energy in these cells if a fault does occur is high, any fault that allows even one cell in a lithium Ion pack to significantly charge above 4.25v is a potential fire risk. Please can I respectfully suggest you do not leave chargers unattended for long periods and certainly not overnight unless you are absolutely certain it is in a fireproof area with good ventilation (like the middle of an open garden space). i do not wish to be alarmist, I've been using much more easily damaged Lithium Polymer batteries for years and I've never had a problem because I am careful with them, but I have burnt a hole in a sofa charging a laptop because I didn't give charging a piece of everyday consumer electronics a second thought. Ideally you should try to disconnect a charger as soon as possible after it indicates charging is complete. Lithium batteries do not trickle charge like NiMh's so there is no benefit in leaving them any longer, only a still present risk.
  23. Please take a look at the product demonstration here With hoverboard fires being a huge concern for some people, all of us here at SegYourWay have teamed up to bring a simple, yet effective Fire Resistant Hoverboag. This bag has been designed to contain any explosion that a hoverboard can produce. This bag is also layered with a special carbon fiber coating which helps the bag to maintain its shape during an explosion or fire. The Hoverbag can be used for charging, and storing of all 6.5 inch hoverboards. Arrives in 3-5 business days! Instructions: Plug in the hoverboard and place one end of the hoverboard in the Hoverbag. Then hold the Hoverbag while pushing the hoverboard into the bag until the board reaches the back of the Hoverbag. Once reached, grab both ends of the Velco strip, pull tight (apart), and seal. It is important that the Velcro has a flush seal to get full potential of the Hoverbag. Made in the USA Size: 35" long and 16" wide Equipped with a wide heavy duty Velcro strip Open charger wholes on both sides for user preference Light weight and portable For a video demonstration visit Have an 8 or 10 inch hoverboard? Send us an email to pre-order the new upcoming bigger sized Hoverbags.
  24. Tel : 01384 395438 Based In Uk Westmidlands Hoverboards EXPLODING? Which Hoverboards are Safe? Lately the media is in a whirlwind of “hoverboard explosion” and “hoverboard fire” stories. How can we be safe? We Are Now Offering For Just £9.99 a in-line fuse system intergrated into you board which will cut out the battery if there is a short circuit on the logic board or wiring . (please call for details ) DO HOVERBOARDS EXPLODE? No, not really. Using the term “explosion” is due exclusively to the media’s knack for exaggeration. There have been only fires, no explosions. WHAT CAUSES THESE FIRES? The fires start in the battery pack. Lithium ion batteries contain different cells at 4.20V each. Sheets of Polypropylene or Polyethylene (electric insulators) separate the individual cells. When one or more of the separating sheets are compromised through impact or overcharging, a short circuit occurs. The large current flowing through raises the temperature to the flash point of lithium, and an intense, flaring fire ensues. Most of the fires seem to happen during charging, and that’s because Lithium ion batteries cannot accept overcharge. Your hoverboard’s charger features a cut-off mechanism which detects when the battery is charged, and stops the charging process automatically. Defects in this cut-off mechanism, may lead to overcharging of the cells, and to a fire. HOW CAN I PREVENT HOVERBOARD FIRES? The best way to prevent hoverboard fires is to buy from a trusted manufacturer that uses high quality components. Another good way is to monitor the charging process, at least when you charge the smart balance wheel for the very first time (as opposed to plugging it in and going to sleep). If you wanna make absolutely sure that you have a good quality charger, even though your board doesn’t come from a reputable vendor, you can purchase an external universal charger. While this won’t prevent fires caused by the piercing of the battery pack, it will definitely prevent the most destructive fires, the ones caused by overcharging (which mostly seem to happen during the night, while you’re charging your hoverboard). Another good way to avoid fires is to simply be careful with your hoverboard. Don’t drop it, kick it, or hit sharp objects with it. Any of these things may damage the separator sheets in the battery pack and cause a fire. This is extremely unlikely, but if the board’s construction isn’t solid, it’s a possibility. As everyone loves a bargain it has led to people buying cheap copies and very low quality boards with bad circuitry, Now there has been cases of them setting on fire and also exploding due to over charging. Our advice is never leave them charging for more then 2 hours 30 minutes from time you switch it on from the plug socket, Never leave your board charging overnight or unattended . Overcharging will make the battery get hot and swell. (just like putting to much air in a balloon). The plug as shown in the picture to the right should be fused with a 3 amp fuse. Exploding hoverboards is a little drastic as over 1 million hoverboards have been sold worldwide with 4 cases of fire. lithium i-on batteries are very temperamental correct use and using general common sense when charging will help. Checking your Hoverboard is SAFE! Please Take our advise ! If your plug is (clover shaped) please cut if off and stop using immediately, You can purchase a new charger or replace it with a fused plug,we recommend using a 3 amp fuse. whether it has been purchased from the likes of harrods or amazon. Never leave the battery on charge over night after a maximum of 2 hours 30 minutes if the charger light has not turned to green, turn it off and plug it out of the wall, as over charging it will cause damage and injury. The boards internally there are two types of logic boards , one type is very unstable and a cheap substitute. Hoverboards are safe to use and when charged properly will not cause a risk of of fire,but cheaply bought and low budget circuitry can cause the battery to short and explode. Please note when we repair your board we cannot change your plug as it would make us liable, we can only supply brand new sealed chargers which are fan assisted to keep the thermal cut out at a regulated temperature. Be safe. iRollers To Book your hoverboard in now. Just simply call 01384 395438 (local rate). Speak to one of our friendly helpful staff and we will do the rest. we will take time to discuss your problem and guide you through our service once we recieve your board to give it a free assessment you are in no way obliged to have it done, we can simply return it for no extra cost.
  25. Hoverboard Repair Call: 01384 395438 Calling us is advised or visiting the store is the best option for first port of call. we will then advise you and offer a collection via parcel force or interparcel for £25-00 that includes return, so you don't have to worry about the hassle of getting it to us , we will do all that for you , all we ask is you print the shipping label off and put it on the box and of course be there when it is collected. Our promise is to provide a professional service with up to date process of your repair and fast turn around, so you can be rolling around on your board within days of receiving it for repair .