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Found 10 results

  1. I tried my new King Song KS-18s 1640Wh and decided to make a video of its cruising speed. I'm 6.2 feet tall and 210 pounds. So far, it's very stable, reliable, fun etc. Link for the video is below:
  2. KingSong 18AY fail

    So we were riding our KS18AY, and it epic failed cruising a long at a decent speed. No warning, no throwback, just dead device. Seems like the motor is fried. Any luck with KingSong warranty service? We bought it through an authorized dealer. PS - thanks for all the advice when buying. Thing rocks. (Til it failed!)
  3. KingSong KS14S - SPORT

    Look what the mailman brought us today. A brand new KS14S from KingSong, where the S stands for Sport. This is the latest Electric Unicycle from KingSong and I’m pretty excited as one of the first to review this unit. Let me know what you think about KS14S?
  4. So we all know KS14C has a bit of a trouble with the axle cracking. The first time it happened to me I went trough half a year long warranty process and apart from the time it cost me 290 USD as apart from the motor itself I needed new board (old one is not compatible with the new motors) and I also wanted new shell and I had to pay the shipping and taxes. I thought that with new type of motor they would have solved the issue but no... after 1400 km according to the app my axle broke again! This is how it looks from outside when your axle breaks: detail after removing the pedals: This time I was so careful! I didn't jump the curbs I had barely any falls... but maybe it was caused by not using the spacers that come between the pedal holders and motor. I didn't use them because the ones from the old motor were not compatible with the new one and I didn't receive new one with the new motor. Tina said to proceed without them but I think that was the reason why the axle broke so soon because maybe I put them a bit further apart or something like that. Anyway I didn't want to pay another hefty sum for a new motor to have it broken in few months again and I actually had a new 500W KS motor on hand since they sent it to me by mistake at first instead of the 800W one. First I tried whether it will work with my board meant for 800W motor. No surprise, it doesn't . But the axle is the same so I decided to gut the never used motor to get mine going again. So I took both motors apart. And this is how i looks: The way the wire are connected to the windings Detail of the axle: Detail of the hall effect sensor: To remove the axle you need access to a hydraulic press. I tried to hammer the axle out but had no success, I only damaged the axle even more. I study a technical university so I just went to the building of mechanical engineering and after few minutes I had time setup when I could come to use the press. In the end the people there just did it for me because of safety concerns. The press ( very old made in now nonexistent country of Czechoslovakia :D) Video of the actual removal: https://goo.gl/photos/nJ5HVcn3ogqr8ECB6 Detached axle: To remove the axle I had to remove the cabling first and of course the cabling got damaged while being pulled trough the axle. The original phase wires were 1,22mm2 with plastic insulation the hall sensor wire were 0,22mm2 also with plastic insulation. The replacement cables I used were 1,5mm2 and 0,25mm2 with silicon insulation. So potentially higher quality but they were also thicker so now sheath to put them all together could fit in the axle so i kept them separate. Also as you can see they didn't have the right colors which caused me some trouble later on when connecting to the control board. I had them labeled but the tags fell while I was pulling the cables through the motor cover So when finishing up there was a lot of experimenting with the right order. I knew which wires were for hall sensors and which for phases from thickness and I knew which wires were the power for the hall sensors because these were the only ones with the correct color. But I still had two groups of 3 wires each. That gives me 36 combinations. Anyone who ever connected the wires wrong knows how crazy the unicycle acts if you do that :/ Luckily it only took me 8 tries! Those were some horrible couple minutes! To pull the cables through the axle I used the same method as @Rehab1 - solder them all together and use single wire to pull the trough. Thanks for inspiration! Unfortunately some of the hall sensors got damaged during the axle removal so I had to change them too. The original sensors were MT4451-A (TO-92 package) as @esaj helped me discover from the markings. I could not get these in Czechia so I used TLE4935L instead as I have already used them once on different unicycle and they worked. Damaged hall effect sensor: And here is finally the finished motor with new wiring and hall sensors: After putting everything together the unicycle works! But there are some problems. It does wobble. When I ride it swings back and forth a little. It it pronounced way more while riding forwards then by riding the unicycle the wrong way with the brake light forward. Anyone has any ideas what could cause this? Here is a video of this https://goo.gl/photos/WfKaDb1iGzgadY1p6 Also the free spin maximum speed is different in each direction it is 40,6 km/h in forward (more wobbly direction) and 38,5 km/h in backwards (more stable direction). So IDK is this some mechanical problem ? the bearing perhaps? I used the motor covers from the 500W as the bearings spin much better. Could this be the cause? They seemed the same otherwise and they fit with no problem. Problem with the board maybe? During the experimenting with the right wire order combinations some nasty thing were most likely happening to the board..:/ I will see how it progresses but please if someone knows what it could be let me know I would hate going trough all this trouble to have the unicycle break down again soon after. So in total this cost me about 20 USD. 10 USD for the beers I bought the people who helped me with the press and 10 USD for the wires and hall sensors. It would cost more if I had to have the axle machined. PS. There will be part two with the older motor from the first time my axle broke and new machined axle for that
  5. Eventhough I got this wheel just about three months ago, I'm already looking to upgrade. Why? I feel the need for more range. This wheel can do 12-14km, but I simply want to go on for longer and not have to carry an extra battery around. Other than the range, I have no remarks about the wheel. Its fast ( I've reached 26km/h ), the automatic lights work great, and the bluetooth speaker sound pretty good too. 174wh swappable battery 25km/h top speed ( cruising speed ~22km/h) Automatic lights ( works great from my experience) + brake light Integrated bluetooth speaker Build quality seems really solid. I haven't really dropped it yet, so no mayor scratches. Milage is about 200km I'd say( The total mileage has reset itself a few times for some reason, I think its something with the app) As I said, I got it less than two months ago, so It's as good as new. Feel free to make an offer if you're interested. - Shipping to EU is possible ( but expensive; starts at €34) - Shipping to NL €13,25 -Pickup in Arnhem,GL is also possible IMO this is a great first wheel, cheap but good qualitiy/speed/features. Also good for someone looking for a cheap short range commuter. Feel free to contact me for more information.
  6. I've messaged Tina regarding some things I didn't like about the new firmware update v1.23 she told me unless it's a problem for most people she wont get the developers to change anything. (Please remember this post is only for firmware V1.23 if you have not updated please do so and contribute to the post.) The purpose of this post is to get Kingsong owners to speak up what they would like to see in the app(please be as detailed as possible) I have two problems with the current firmware and App: Speed reduced at 25km/h at 50% of battery left. My wheel is currently speed unlocked so I can ride at 30km/h once battery is at 50% I can only ride at 25km/h. I want speed reduction to kick in at 20% or 25%. Exceeding speed Alarms be able to switch and turn off between Beep and "Please decelerate" and Vibration/Shake Currently there is no way to change the way it alerts you. When I first received my unit and rode past 30km/h at 90% of battery my wheel would shake/vibrate and if I pushed it even more it would start to beep. The constant beeping is very annoying for me and I usually cant hear it because I'm wearing earphones with music on. I want to be able to adjust the way the alarms are controlled allowing the rider to make decisions depending on the way they ride. EDIT: I've condensed all the posts and links to make this post easier to read. Below are other suggestions from other riders. More customizations on pedal tilt back Speed at which they tilt back Angle at which they tilt back When wheel is resting change 'fine tune' pedal angle Bluetooth password Rename KS device Option of Larger pedal options Set voice prompts as off on default can be turned on through app Headlights brighter headlight preferable Settings for flash options of light Firmware updates not to consume too much power MAJOR CHANGE FOR REDUCED SPEED NEEDED
  7. Hello to all KS owners&lovers and not only I have one more week before separation with my lovely generic EUC. An eager nephew wants to buy it from me...he learned to ride it in less than an hour and naturally fall in love with it I'm following the path of many of you to start with a cheap generic one as a test and after that considering to buy the "real deal". This forum is a precious source of information for EUC connected issues and I was quite aware since the beginning which brand has the best for me technical features - KS. But I spent quite a time glued to the screen with the picture of Inmotion V5. Also at some point I considered buying IPS Zero...all in all I feel like I prefer that round shape as it looks more futuristic and far away from any kind of vehicle. But the passion from the outside look is one thing, my cold male logic mind is speaking something else. While I cannot afford to buy sport car, I can satisfy those entertainment (and not only) needs with the most powerful EUC - KS 800W. Thanks to @Jason McNeil I learned that KS are the most reseller/client responsive company who pay attention and take actions to improve their product. I think that such a company deserves honor and award in the form of more client's money Thanks to such honest distributors as Jason and @KaleOsaurusRex we are familiar with so many details about KS developments. Here I would like to express my special appreciations to @esaj His overall forum contribution is immense and knowing that this is for free I'm asking myself - how such guys could manage their time schedule working something else for a living and doing such a great work just for free. One answer that come across my mind is that such talented men are making enough for living only using one or two of their skills...the rest is for fun and self-actualization Many thanks to the forum contributors concerning KS reviews and issues - @John Eucist @Cloud @Henrik Olsen.....all. My EUC choice is KS 14C 800W, the bigger the better battery, preferably white color like the one that @Michael Vu shows us very well here: Now, after I finally decided the brand and the model, next stage is where to buy it from. For the "real deal" EUC I would definitely prefer to have a warranty and after sales customer support. For now, I'm considering the options to connect with the manufacturer in China (obviously after their holidays), or from Netherlands, France...I'm not sure and would appreciate advices and recommendations. All the best! added...just have seen all black version wich I also liked
  8. Your KS 16 expirence

    Hey guys I'm thinking of upgrading my ninebot to a ks16. Just wanted to hear some of y'all expirence with the ks16. Some things you like or dislike, any malfunctions etc.
  9. Looking to Purchase KS18-800w

    I'm looking to purchase a KS 18 with 800w power and with either 680wh or 820wh whichever one has a better price. It's been hard to locate sellers to who sells these since they arent as popular as the Ninebot One E+ Model. I need a seller that can ship to North America preferably Canada but if not the US is fine as well. Does anyone have any trusty sellers that they would like to suggest me getting from? Thanks!
  10. KS GW cutoff

    Hi, I'd like to pose a question to those familiar with or have technical expertise on motor/battery engineering - while the "official" word is that KS units do not cut off when pressed past their speed max/battery output, has anyone tested this theory? When I asked GW about their lack of this feature, per the GW rep, there is no such thing as an EU that does not cutoff after exceeding max speed/battery output. While the pedal-rising feature may discourage further pursuit of higher speeds, it doesn't guarantee the KS units have a smart feature built in to prevent cutoff. I just want to clear up any misinformation that may be present - currently what I have to go off of is GW rep vs KS rep but we all know that testing it is the only true way to find out - or thru understanding how these motors/batteries work. Per GW rep, the new units will have an optional pedal-rising feature selected via their app - this was intentionally done for a couple reasons: in a situation where high speeds are reached and a cutoff is imminent, flat pedals are actually better than rising pedals for a user to bail. Either way, it won't be pretty but the idea is that should your feet be in an angle due to rising pedals, you can't jump off. Another reason: if you practice safe driving near the max speeds, you don't have to worry about the annoyance of the rising pedals. Having the option I think seems the best of both worlds. Not saying that beeping isn't annoying, bc we know it sure is!
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