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  1. Hello everyone. This is a one year of usage review of the Xima Lhotz 340wh. I have the “old” version 30km/h 340wH and bought it for 1000EUR was only 1 place to get it (its now cheaper…) Short version for people who don’t have time. Would i buy it again or recommend= No. Images of faults below. Longer version for people who have a little more time The good Its a tank (shell wise) and can take a beating. The BMS+ control boars gives a great sense of security, it doesn’t shut off with low battery etc, it beeps+ tilt back and forces you to stop. The ride is fantastic both asphalt and trails, rocks and hills. It never hurts my feet. A general sense of not cutting out. I have riden this wheel in rain, snow, ice and summer without no problems. (i thought, see below) The bad Letters came of the moment i removed the protective film. (i don’t want the text but some might want that.) Not possible to set beeping on off och custom settings. No tiltback settings. App is OK, a bit slow and missing some features for me like the “new” version, engine power etc) I always use Kevins version and compared to new version of other apps it now feels very basic. The ugly Its marketed as a “tank / offroad” device with IP65 rating but this is not true. My front and rear leds have rusted and eventually shorted the LED control board while removing dirt from the leds. The inside of the wheel i covered in dust. The battery pack broke (broken connection after vibrations) so that had to be repaired, when will the next connection brake? Bit of an trust issue... No manual and explanation of all fault codes. Stainless steel handle plates rusted, its not all stainless steel. LED stripes broke side, front and rear. Would i buy again? Short answer, No. With everyday riding in all types of conditions 1 year of usage is not fantastic and i expected more. There are more powerful, higher wH fast wheels today and the reliability and quality on wheels like Inmotion V8 or ACM at almost the same prise is well worth it. I would have bought again if it held to all the claims and if it had a bigger battery: IP65, no dust + water entry in wheel and leds., Battery pack bracken due to vibrations!? its an offroad marketed device. Homepage, manual and support seem “off” there is a feeling they will disappear. 340wH is to little for hills and “offroad”. Upgrades: I recently moved to a place on a hill and every time i went home (with full battery) the low voltage alarm went off so i had to stop and this resulted in a DIY battery upgrade +180wH total 520 wH and after that no more low voltage alarms and i can go for 30km in 4 degrees C at 20+km/h average speed so now the wheel is great range wise. I can go 27+km/h up that same hill now. For me this wheel in its standard configuration is to weak with 340wH battery and only because of that i wouldn’t buy it again. Add to that battery pack failure due to vibrations + other issues and the answer is clear. Its been a great wheel to ride though before i lived on a hill (and after battery updates living on a hill) for almost a year coming from X8 but today the choice would be different. If IPS would build a wheel with updates that would fit my needs and with updates addressing all my concerns and faults i would buy IPS again solely because of the fantastic BMS+firmware+engine+ride combo that gives great trust. Images below: Have a good weekend! Image of back led with dust inside. Image inside the light. Rusted led chip. Backside of led stripe. Broken LED board control. Design flaw.. Broke LED stripes side. Rusted handle. Battery repair. Broken connection in battery pack. Repaired battery pack. I had to tape the pack tighter as there was a lot of "flex" between the different areas of the pack, this resulted in the broken connection.
  2. As I mentioned earlier, and always raising interest, I am currently upgrading my IPS 191 "Lhotz" 340 Wh with an additional 16s pack of 18650 cells. So here is some documentary about this mod, so anyone can consider if it's worth it. Some details: I use Samsung SDI INR18650-30Q cells, as they are available quite cheap around here and had some good tests, beeing able to output 20A cont. while beeing rated by Samsung for 15A. However, turns out that even at 20A this cell can compete with the infamous LG HG2. Rated at 3 Ah this gives me 3*3,7*16=177,6 Wh additional capacity, making my Lhotz a roughly 520 Wh wheel! As these 30Qs have an internal resistance of only 18 mOhms, as opposed to 35 mOhms of the stock Panasonics IPS uses, this should nearly half the voltage drop under load, giving me either further additional range, or at the same range less limitations due to low voltage. Well not gonna bore you any longer with this, here are the pics. First, starting point: (the beeper was moved up prior to taking this photo, otherwise this is how the internals looked) How do we get 16 18650s in there? First idea: Fits comfortably in there, but wiring would be a real mess. So I came up with this: Nice and thight, and all the cells relatively compact together. I will not document on how to build the actual packs from the cells, this has been documente often enough on the internet I you want to do this, just keep in mind there is no space at disposal, just make those packs as tight and small as possible. Packs assembled and test fitted in: As you will have guessed, I will hook the new pack to the BMS of the wheel, thus all the thin white cables. In the bottom left corner you can see the connectors and how I dasy chained them, so i can plug both batteries to the BMS. I will do the same with the XT60 connector, so I don't have to touch any of the origianl wiring, besindes some relocation. Thus I can always extract my additional battery without much fuzz. As the packs are positioned tight against the metal controlboard box, I added an extra rub protection cardboard layer inside the shrinkwrap of the packs. But there won't be much rubbing here, it's a really thight fit! I should further mention that the sprew posts in the places where the new battery sits need to be removed. Left to do: finish the connections, fix all the wires in place, fasten the batteries,
  3. Hello everybody, I have an IPS 101 and the electronic board (pcb) is damaged, where can I acquire a compatible replacement for this unicycle? It is 16" wheel
  4. motor

    I have an IPS 101 with the PCB damaged, Is possible put some Gotway pcb in a IPS 16" wheel?
  5. I have been exchanging Facebook chats with Wang Yue Yue @王月月 of IPS (the official IPS factory spokesperson at http://www.iamips.com/en/app.html) about various IPS related topics that have arisen in the EUC Forum concerning IPS' products, testing, use and so forth, and have offered to share Yue Yue's information with the forum members. I thought it would be useful to field questions in English, get their answers, and synopsize these for the Forum. Yue Yue has also promised me pictures and other insights to what they are planning, how they design and test their products, and other insights. I thought it would be useful given some of the confusion surrounding IPS products and plans expressed on this site. I thought the topic title captured the flavor of what I am trying to do, but I'm open to suggestions if someone thinks we can do better. Let's go!
  6. I'm looking to sell my IPS 400 unicycle to allow me to upgrade. It has been is a great unicycle to learn on. It's certainly not the fastest, but it's sturdy and great for beginners. IPS is a solid brand and this is a well-built and safe to ride unicycle. Color: Black Wheel Size: 16" Battery: 400wh Motor: 1000w Max Load: 120 kg I'm around ~240 lbs and the wheel has plenty of power to get me around, but it's not one of the "faster" wheels. As long as your not a speed demon or trying to go too fast, you'll be fine. I'd recommend this wheel for a beginner or for relaxed cruising around town. I typically rode it for about it for about 10 miles or so. The 400wh battery is decent, better than some of the newer ninebots. Dimensions in the box is around 16" x 24" x 22 or so. There's no app for this wheel. I'm asking $300 for it + Shipping. Ships from Norfolk, Virginia (23510) and box weighs around 30 lbs. Here's some pictures of the unicycle. It's got a few scratches on it, but still runs great.
  7. The weather is getting cold, and rain and snow slowly down, it must be a little trouble for the love of a wheelbarrow, it will form a certain obstacle to the wheel and it is also a huge test. No doubt, The lower temperature is very bad for the lithium battery, his performance will decline, so I need you to protect it more in this winter. I believe the weather will be warm and everything will get better, please keep Safe when you ride. Thanks. 1.Please charge the wheel on time, which is very good for the battery; 2.Avoid riding on rain; 3.Do not hurry to accelerate the rapid deceleration, it is so bad...... Let us do a good rider and Protect your cherished wheel.
  8. I am struggling to find any information about what accessories are available for the IPS 181/191 Lhotz wheel. I am keen to hear what is commercially available, or what other wheelers have made themselves...
  9. I'm more itching for an ACM16 actually as it seems to be one of the front runners in the 16" wheel category in terms of speed and battery power. Unless I win the lotto I don't think it'll be coming my way anytime soon. That's okay - it's too dark and cold and slightly snowy here to go rolling any more so no real need for another wheel I guess. The squarish PC case sort of grows on you. Functional Batman esthetics I'd call it. The Rockwheel GT16 is another beaut that should be really fun to ride I'm hoping!
  10. Hi everybody, Some doubts arise about the contact to choose from for contacting the company IPS, following a post on Facebook two websites with two IPS representatives appears on Internet: chang Yuming from www.ipselectricunicycle.com and Run Meng from www.iamips.com. have you guys ever order something (and received it) from one of these contacts ? Which one is the official one ? I suppose that one of both is a reseller.
  11. The Charge Doctor with double input for IPS (Holtz, Zero...) is available. You can order it on the "Buy" page of my blog : http://hobby16.neowp.fr/buy/ I've also had questions about the IPS chargers, so I have posted a how-to mod a generic charger to make a customized charger with the right connector : http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/11/20/charger-customization/ The how-to is posted below as a backup : Charger customization Most e-wheels have settled for the GX16-3 connector. Some though use a different format and the corresponding charger may be difficult to find and are mostly more expensive. A customized charger with the right connector can be made from a generic 2A charger with the wiring instructions below. Various ewheel connectors, size and pin comparison Most frequently found connectors e-Wheel Socket Wiring Voltage Topo* Remark Most e-wheels GX16-3 1: V+ ; 3: 0V 67.2V 16S connector for Solowheel, Airwheel, Gotway, Firewheel, King Song… Gotway MSuper3 84V/1600Wh GX16-4 1: V+ ; 2: 0V 84V 20S other MSuper3 with battery <1600Wh have GX16-3 connectors IPS (Holtz, Zero…) GX16-4 2: V+ ; 4: 0V 67.2V 16S warning, same connector as above but different wiring! InMotion V8 ** GX12-3 1: V+ ; 2: 0V 84V 20S same connector & wiring as hoverboards InMotion V3,V5 Lenovo Int:V+ ; Ext: 0V 84V 20S Lenovo square socket, originally for Lenovo laptop power supply Ninebot One*** Lemo 63V 15S see photo for wiring*** Ninebot Minipro, Xiaomi ** GX12-4 1: V+ ; 4: 0V 63V 15S *16S = 16 LiIon cells connected in series, total voltage calculated using battery full value = 4.2V/cell ** important, the numbering order on GX16-3 connectors is totally different from the GX12-3 : from left to right 3-2-1 for GX16-3 compared to 1-3-2 for GX12-3 !!! Likewise for GX12-4 and GX16-4 GX12 and GX16 plugs, note the difference in pin numbering *** Wiring for Lemo on NinebotOne Beware of the charger For this mod, I recommand using the fanless 2A generic chargers. Even if they tend naturally to warm much more than a (noisy) charger with integrated fan, they have many great features: availability for various voltages, noiseless, compact and transportable… They allow fast charging at 4A by a parallel connection with the original charger using a Duo Charge Doctor (or even at 6A with the Triplex CD). Warning though, some 1.5A chargers are sold as 2A chargers. They have a smaller housing and are very hot when charging, thus unreliable in the long term. When buying it online, the vendor never details the housing dimensions and count on the buyers not to check the actual current to sell it. Without stated dimensions, the difference can still be made looking at the distance between the rectangle and the grooves (see arrows on the picture). Any vendor with such dubious practices should be avoided anyway. So don’t be misled, buy only the 2A charger with the bigger housing. Chargers 2A and 1.5A, size comparison
  12. I'm not sure of the best place to put this post, so I am going with the IPS section, and will link it back to other relevant places... So today I rode my Lhotz from a full charge, directly uphill to check how it handled (while monitoring the stats). Leg 1 - Uphill Starting elevation: 100m Starting charge: 100% Starting temperature: 16°C Starting load: 115kg Finishing elevation: 250m Finishing charge: ~70% Finishing temperature: 49.5°C Distance travelled: 2000m So I wheeled hard on the uphill, while watching the stats. I wanted to see what the point of failure was... And while I expected my wheel to beep me (requesting a rest) I expected it to be due to the temperature - but the reality when I got the warning was that the app was showing the battery status as <15% but the temperature was still less than 50°C. But after stopping, and allowing the wheel to recover, the status ramped back up to around the 70% mark - so after a 30 second stop I was good to go. Now I should point out that this was 1800m (at pace) into the trip, and I did not let up at all along the way (though I may have slowed down a little as I passed the bakery to check out my options for the second leg). Previously I wasn't sure whether I needed to stop due to temperature or battery drain, but this is now confirmed. I am expecting to take some flak for this, but my statement now is that, "For a heavier rider going uphil, the battery drain can be more significant than the temperature." And in my case, the load became the limiting factor well before the temperature was an issue. Interestingly, it wasn't a torque issue, as the wheel still had a lot of pull in it, but it just didn't have enough stored energy available to draw on to power through? Is this a limitation of the battery technology? Leg 2 - Downhill This was a bit more experimental... The IPS app kept crashing (and I don't think I can use WheelLog) - It seemed to crash particularly when I was on the steeper downhill sections. I wonder if this was when the motor power was a negative value (regenerating) and it didn't understand how to present that? But what I did notice is that while the app showed power usage around 15-20% (while travelling ~10km/h) I did end up at the finish line with the battery charged to around 80% . Overall, my observations (and feeling) makes me think that on the "shallow" downhill, I am still using power to actively drive, but on the steeper sections, power is flowing back into the battery as one would expect. My conclusion is that, at slower speeds with a heavier load, it requires a steeper gradient to achieve regenerative power - and a percentage is actually used on the shallower gradients to maintain a constant (slower) speed. And continuing on that thought - I was interested to note the "stopped" effort - on the flat, I can hold onto something and the motor power to keep me upright is 1-3%. But on a good hill, it is 10-15% Okay, that is me - everyone feel free to shred my comments with science - I am more than happy to be wrong, I just want to understand all of this more!
  13. First off, this item IS NOT functioning properly. Read below and there is NO warranty. Check the website banggood . com. This is called the IPS I130 on that site, but when you get the box, its a 133B. Original price $410. This has been rarely used. It has some type of issue with the computer. It drives fine for a little while and then the alarm goes off like it was tipped. reset the power switch or just stay still for a little while and it stops. Sometimes it works fine for awhile, other, it will only go 10 feet before the alarm. Charger included, but its a Europe plug end. You will need an adapter, or the plug from a dell latitude fits perfect. I tried to troubleshoot with the supplier. They were of no help and shipping back to Japan is not an option. They just refunded my money. I just picked up a bum unit. All yours for repair or parts. I have it on Ebay, but for the folks on this site....Make me an offer and whatever it costs to ship from 30305
  14. Hey guys, I just received my shiny new wheel this morning - courtesy of Linnea Lin! As the title goes, I got the IPS 191, or Xima Lhotz with a 340Wh battery. First Impressions: The 16 inch wheel looks a whole lot larger than the 14 inch Gotway MCM2s that I own. It's far more aesthetically pleasing and I'd put it above the Ninebot in terms of its exterior qualities. The front/back/side lights look really nice in dim/low lighting and can be turned on/off through the XIMA App. I took the wheel for a fairly long ride (25KM) after a short charge to full battery (arrived at about 80% charge) and it's safe to say that I'm very impressed. I've tried out a wide range of wheels; owning 3, and I would say this is the best of the bunch (although the most expensive). FEATURES Speed: The top speed I was able to achieve was roughly 19KM/hr as indicated both through the XIMA App and Runtastic. It's also good to note that the App doesn't exaggerate the speed unlike that of the Gotway one. At top speed, the pedals are definitely raised back and it can be a bit uncomfortable riding for long distances. I can confirm that the wheel may be unlocked to 30KM/hr via the app as there is an option to do so but only after the total mileage exceeds 100KM. Control: The wheel accelerates with ease, and is fairly 'hard' (comparable to Madden Mode), while also being extremely stable. What I REALLY love though, is the way it turns. On my previous wheels, turning is mostly mechanical - I'd bend one knee, swivel my hips etc, and the wheel turns as I physically force it to. On the Lhotz, you don't control the wheel - the wheel controls you. There is no need for heavy leg movement or motion - the wheel is extremely responsive and guides itself in the direction you subtlely lean/point towards. It's a very different experience and took maybe a minute to get used to - but it feels great. Probably something to do with the control software. Power: They say the wheel has a 1000W max output but I feel like that's more of a sustained/nominal figure. Maybe it's because I haven't pushed it beyond the 20KM/hr unlock but going uphill at my current speed feels like the wheel isn't even doing any work. It's so effortless and quiet. Decelerating is just as smooth, but I almost fell once because I tried to push back really fast while the pedals where leaning heavily backward. Range: I achieved a good 25 KM of riding distance with about 30% battery remaining. The area I was travelling within did have a number of long, medium gradients though. I'm 185 CM tall weighing roughly 80 - 85 KGs depending on whether I've been eating much during the week. I hope this range doesn't decrease once I unlock the 30 KM/hr and ride at higher speeds. Build Quality: The case looks and feels very durable. pedals are pretty standard, but have this weird opening/closing mechanism that doesn't rely on magnets. It requires a little more force to pull them down and up but this has yet to be an annoyance. The wheel makes no noise turning on/off, and the lights look fantastic in dim/low lighting. NEGATIVES: - I really don't like the tilt-back mechanism, but that's probably a matter of taste. However, leaning back at high speeds with the pedals tilted feels a little dangerous as it's easy to fall backwards off the wheel. After experimenting though, I found that I could simply use my midsection to lean rather than entire upper body, and this would mitigate the balancing issue. Maybe I just lack experience with tilt-back EUCs (I sold my Airwheel X8 a week after purchasing it) and had no idea what I was doing. Still quite unnerving the first time though. - Damn you IPS, you're really going to make me ride for 100 KMs before I get my speed back up??? - There is no higher battery option than 340Wh. I would have loved a 680 Wh capacity on this thing. - It's about 2 KG heavier than the MCM2s. Thing is, it actually feels nicer to carry due to the ergonomic handle. No idea why. Props for the design IPS. - I really hope IPS develops the app to control both tilt-back and beeping. The beeping is not loud at all, but being able to switch the earlier beeps off when cruising at say 25 KM/hr would be nice. VERDICT: 10/10 Would buy again. Soooo underrated - in fact I couldn't find a single review of it online. Awesome design, very safe, very well constructed. Can't wait to hit some higher speeds! Just 75 KM more to go smile emoticon I intend to charge it back up and take it for another 25 KMs this afternoon. DISCLAIMER: I don't work with any EUC companies, and do not endorse any products for financial reasons/benefits. Thanks for reading! I'll post another review once I unlock the 30KM/hr speed.
  15. I'm looking to upgrade my EUC, and the IPS option from my local agent is the "IPS 191 Xima Lhotz 340" but when I look at the iamips.com website they show two (different) options - the ""IPS 181 Lhotz 340" or the "IPS 191 Lhotz 260" But other than the battery size (and an apparent 30km/h speed limit from the local model), I am struggling to understand the difference between them all. Is someone able to tell me how these models differ, please?
  16. Asking $350 (purchased for $700, not including shipping). Only recharged a few times, comes with padding and non-slip tape already applied for better riding. I prefer handing this off to you in Seattle, so if you live elsewhere, add shipping to the total cost and I'll package it up for you and ship it for $100 extra. I really appreciated these forums since it helped me figure out which wheel to buy. After riding one around for a short bit, I think it's time to get one with a bigger battery to take it further. So I'm selling it hoping someone else will find it useful.
  17. Hi new here although i've been soaking up info for a few weeks now. Basically i bought a generic 14" learnt to ride it love it and now im looking to upgrade as it really isnt cut out for off road use. I have the option of getting a gotway msuper v2 for a very reasonable price. ( £750 in the UK btw). A gotway msuper v3 would cost around £250 more or i could get a second hand ips 132 for around £270. My question is do you guys feel the m3 is worth the extra £250? I primarily use an Iphone and am i right in thinking the m2 doesnt have ios bluetooh support? Or considering im still new should i just go for the ips and worry about the more advanced gotway later? Any tips or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks
  18. Selling because I'm looking to upgrade. I've had this wheel for about 6 months and I love it, but I want some more speed/distance. The wheel is originally pink and has been plasti dipped white, so the wheel can be returned to it's original pink form. Can ship worldwide! But it'd be kind of expensive for you Shipping inside the EU is not as bad though PM me for details. Some images: http://imgur.com/a/Vm20S Video of me plasti dipping the wheel ( First did it blue, later white) Video of me riding:
  19. Hello. Some pre information. I found this nice forum and shortly after i bought the Xima Lhotz 340wH after finding it here. I think its fantastic (i had a Airwheel X8 previous) but this Xima is worlds apart. *The 16" 2.5"wide wheel makes all the difference for stability and balance *When the battery goes low it just starts a continuous beep and starts a tiltback and you are forced to stop. *The engine feels strong and gives confidence and behaves the way i expect it to behave. Some things are not fantastic though. - The stickers came of the wheel together with the protective plastic. (No biggie for me though, i wanted to remove them anyhow) - The rubber protectors are attached with the same "sticky but never drying glue" So eventually ill have to glu them back. - If you ride the wheel and get the long continuous beep (low battery warning) the km doesn't register. Thats why my app displays 55km when i actually have gone more than double. - The official app "Xima" is not fantastic, without Kevins "Xima Lhots" app i wold have been less satisfied. Thank you Kevin! Other than that with my limited (+100km) of riding this EU i have found no flaws. Now for the actual post... So i couldn't take it any more, i had to press the "Firmware Update Available" button in the Xima app. (iamips doesn't work) I was on v4.3 and have done 100km om that firmware and was very satisfied. Im now on v4.32 and purely subjectively i think its more smooth to ride. Before it felt a bit "harsh / not super smooth" going up and down between 25-29 km/h pushing against tiltback but i think that this transition a bit smoother now. I have no more scientific proof other than it works fine and the ride feels great for me.. I can still use the Xima Lhotz app to unlock 30km/h, thank god That app works 100% for me and a BIG thanks to Kevin for making this app. And now for the questions. Does anyone have info or a changelog for these firmware updates? Have a nice day!
  20. I have been riding an IPS 121 for about a year, and just received the IPS 191 Lhotz. I have downloaded a couple of the different app's for my iPhone (iOS). Unfortunately I have tried everything and cannot get the app to recognize or link to the wheel. Any suggestions? Other than not linking, the wheel is great!
  21. Super-excited that my IPS Zero has arrived in the U.S., FedEx shows it in Memphis and it should be arrive to me in San Francisco this week. In order to pass through customs, the seller needed to ship the 340wh batteries separately. They told me DHL rejected the shipment twice before it was accepted — without batteries — by FedEx and successfully shipped. The batteries will be shipped Monday now that the wheel has passed through customs. I have studied CSMeyers' teardown photos, but can't figure out which screws and parts will need to be disassembled to install the batteries. Will it be obvious to me when I receive my Zero where the screwholes are and what needs to be taken off? I'm pretty good with assembly and disassembly but any guidance would be appreciated. It looks from the teardown that the outer shell and a plastic cover over the batteries will need to be removed. Thanks and looking forward to my second electric unicycle. Expecting this Zero to have the range and the power to get me across the city to work. My X3 clone is great and has been reliable but doesn't quite have the juice.
  22. I did it! I purchased my first wheel and am now waiting to get it. After some (a lot) reading here on the forum and on the internet I came to the choice of the IPS Zero with 340 battery. Some advice from some members brought me to the factory of IPS and I ordered directly from them. The message from them was: We will ship your order to our "forwarder" who will then ship it to you. It could take 3 days before you get your shipment number. We are now 3 days further and I'm checking my mail much more regularly then I would do otherwise :-) I am in any case exited to get my first wheel and looking forward to it. I hope I made a good choice with that wheel and would like to thank some of the members in this forum for the advice on where to buy. Also a big hand for all members who contribute actively. This forum is a goldmine for information. Thanks all!
  23. Does anyone know where i can get control board for ips i130+ electric unicycle? I tried 3 different sites and they saying no
  24. I was updating my wheel with iamips.app. and then when it was done the wheel wont turn on. When i press wheel power button it seems like the wheel works like a one eight of its power. And the power button is not lit up. Any suggestions?