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Found 15 results

  1. Hello guys this is my very first topic. I'm going to take my new Msuper 2 to go around the Netherlands this summer (because of the bike roads going all around) I was wondering if any of you have ever asked an establishment (bar, restaurant) if you could charge your wheel a bit while you drink/eat/etc... I ask this because I want to do as few stops as possible but i might be short a kilometer or two, I have 2 friends in cities far away from one another and I can almost make it in one full charge, I've been there ad seen some friendly people but if they all refuse I'd be obligated to drag it for a while (which sucks) Any feedback on third party power sources are much appreciated. thank you <3
  2. The manual makes a point about a specific order of connections when charging a wheel. I have MCM4 HS but I suppose most Gotways should be nearly the same in this regard. The order is: To charge: * Connect the three-prong connector to the wheel * Plug the charger to the wall socket After having finished charging: * Disconnect the three prong from the wheel * Unplug the charger from the wall socket Is this the ritual other Gotway shamans observe? I ask because even though I'm ready to accept this nonsense for the sake of preservation of an expensive piece of equipment, I don't like how too much seems to be dependent on a completely arbitrary order that's very easy to mess up. What makes me especially worried: * When I start charging and connect the three-prong connector, there are sparks flying. I'm having a hard time accepting this as normal. * Until I plug the charger in the wall, its LED shows up as green. It's not a problem per se, but I think it's an indicator of a bad electric design. So, should I worry more than usual about this or is this just how those things are?
  3. I wanted to have a second charger for my ninebot, but the original charger is very expensive. So I ordered a charger from china. The voltage is 62.7 V compared to 61.8 V of the original charger, measured with multimeter. Is this a problem? I hope not, because 62.7/15 =4.18<4.2, but I just want to make sure
  4. The V5F as sold by eWheels optionally comes with a "rapid" charger that outputs 2.5 amps. The standard charger that comes with the V5F outputs 1.5 amps. I have both and figured I'd use the standard charger for ordinary at-home charges since I don't care how long they take, and pack the rapid charger for all-day trips so I could pick up some juice along the way. The two disadvantages of the rapid charger are its size and weight. It's considerably larger than the standard one, which makes it less appealing to carry in my backpack. (See photos.) The standard charger weighs 15.1 ounces (428 grams). Rapid charger is nearly double at 1 pound, 10 ounces (744 grams). The rapid charger also has a glass fuse which I suppose might break if the unit was dropped, but spares are supplied for that possibility. I don't baby it, and so far it has been fine. Even with the added size and weight I still prefer to carry it for day trips. Here are the result of a recent charging session with the rapid charger on my V5F. This is with a relatively new battery (<200 miles on it). START: 30% battery (was reading 27% immediately after the ride but I let the battery sit for an hour so the voltage could settle for a more accurate reading) 20 minutes charge time (coffee break): 50% indicated 30 minutes charge time (lunch break): 60% indicated. (Note on the V5F this means about 12-15 km of safe riding distance for me.) 40 minutes charge time (leisurely lunch): 75% 55 minutes charge time: 90% END I stopped here since the battery will charge very slowly for the last 10% and so there's not much advantage to a rapid charger for topping off to 100%. On another thread, @Marty Backe asked if it was really worthwhile stopping for "recharge breaks" on a trip. If you have a huge battery pack with a 5+ hour charge time, it's probably not worth it, but you probably have the range to keep going anyway. For lighter wheels like the V5F, V5F+, Ninebot One E+, etc. with 320-480wh batteries it makes a big difference, especially with a faster charger than the standard one. I can stop for a 20 minute break and pick up several miles of range, which effectively gives my V5F a usable range of something like 32km with two short charging breaks. For urban rides where power can be found (in coffee shops, restaurants, bars, public buildings, etc) this works well.
  5. I usually deplete my battery (240W ninebot one E) rinding for one hour and half. I would like to extend to two hours or more. I need a few watts more in my battery (+100W I think) Since I have another batteries (LIPO, LIFEPO4, etc...) at home to use, and a DC-DC converter that I can carry in my backpack...Do you know if anybody sucesfully tried to charge the ninebot while riding? I think than I can charge the internal battery from an external one with the DC-DC converter working at 63vdc at 1amp, easily (if BMS can handle it). The ninebots appears to work while charging, but no idea if there is a problem under heavy battery demands (using it in the street). Any thoughts?
  6. Okay, here is a question for all of you EUC math geeks... A road runs up the side of a hill. The road is 2.5km long, with a (fairly) consistent gradient of 0.1 (10%). If a hypothetically fat unicyclist (120kg - including lunch) lived 1km (40%) up that hill and had a fully charged EUC (IPS191 - 1000W / 340Wh), how far would he have to ride UP the hill (from his home), to allow him to ride DOWN the hill to the bottom without overcharging his battery?
  7. Fun experiment of the week -- has any one ever started out with a minimal charge, say 10%, and charged their Ninebot one up to near 100% simply by going down a really long hill or mountain? I imagine one could easily set a distance record on ideally shaped terrain. A few miles of downhill runs, followed by straight and level, followed by more downhill runs. With the right terrain, you could roll on indefinitely!
  8. Instead of charging when I plug it in to the charger, my IPS Zero now powers itself on as soon as I connect the power cord. Just started happening after a few months of issue-free operation and several hundred miles of riding. Since it turns on when I plug it in, it also won't charge. I'm a bit leery of any power-related issues for obvious reasons; has anybody seen or experienced this before? HUGE THANKS CHEERS
  9. I have a Gotway MCM4 which is using Panasonic NCR18650PF battery cells, like lots of recent Gotway and Kingsong wheels. I have found these informations which indicate that fast charging (5A or 3,5A - 4A using 2 chargers) may not be good for 340Wh and smaller battery packs. General NCR18650 series : cell at 10°C or below : charge at 0,35C = 1,89 A (2P / 340Wh) ---- MAX charging is 0,7C = 3,78A (2P / 340Wh) NCR18650PF : standard is 0,5C = 2,7A between 10°C and 45°C For general information as I dont know if these are used in wheels : NCR18650B (used before 18650PF) : 0,25C at 10°C and below, MAX is 0,5C (same apply for NCR18650F) So it would be recommended to check a wheel battery cell specs before applying a higher charge current as wheel as the room temperature. And maybe do not put to charge just after riding if it too hot or cold outside.
  10. All, I have noticed a few times, most recently this week in this discussion: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/1892-tg-t3-advice-wanted/?do=findComment&comment=24160, advice to "try charging it overnight" or "I charge it overnight so it is always ready the next morning" etc. The former in reference to a battery, charger, or control board that had a problem the user was trying to diagnose. Now a good quality charger, BMS and cells should be perfectly safe to do that providing none of the electronics fails in any way. However even good electronics might fail, and quality isn't always good. Above all, even if the risk is a tiny fraction of 1%, the energy in these cells if a fault does occur is high, any fault that allows even one cell in a lithium Ion pack to significantly charge above 4.25v is a potential fire risk. Please can I respectfully suggest you do not leave chargers unattended for long periods and certainly not overnight unless you are absolutely certain it is in a fireproof area with good ventilation (like the middle of an open garden space). i do not wish to be alarmist, I've been using much more easily damaged Lithium Polymer batteries for years and I've never had a problem because I am careful with them, but I have burnt a hole in a sofa charging a laptop because I didn't give charging a piece of everyday consumer electronics a second thought. Ideally you should try to disconnect a charger as soon as possible after it indicates charging is complete. Lithium batteries do not trickle charge like NiMh's so there is no benefit in leaving them any longer, only a still present risk.
  11. I just bought my first EU and love it but it won't charge. The instructions that came with it stated light on charger should turn red while charging and green when finished. It stays green and won't charge. I bought it on ebay and seller has not responded to my 2 messages. Anyone with same experience or knowledge of how to get it to charge? I used it till only 1 of the 4 red lights on unit are red. Thanks!
  12. I know the battery packs continue to charge for a 'little' while after the Charger LED turns green but should it continue for 3 hours after (and still going)? If not, what would cause it to do this? Also, do the small components (the 16 rows of transistors, resistors, etc) on the BMS normally get too hot to touch? If not, what would cause it to do this? Does GotWay use the same values for all of the components on the BMS for the 170Wh pack (16SP1) as they do on the 340Wh pack (16SP2)? Here's the results from the Charge Doctor: 9:37 66.7V 0.54A 0.0Wh 9:45 67.4V 0.44A 5.0Wh 9:53 67.5V 0.38A 8.7Wh 10:01 67.5V 0.33A 11.9Wh 10:09 67.5V 0.27A 14.8Wh 10:15 67.5V 0.26A 16.5Wh LED on Charger turns green 10:19 67.5V 0.25A 17.6Wh 10:27 67.5V 0.24A 19.6Wh 10:36 67.5V 0.22A 22.0Wh 10:44 67.5V 0.21A 23.9Wh 10:53 67.5V 0.20A 26.0Wh 11:02 67.6V 0.20A 28.1Wh 11:10 67.5V 0.19A 29.9Wh 11:17 67.6V 0.19A 31.3Wh 11:24 67.5V 0.19A 32.8Wh .... 11:56 67.5V 0.17A 39.4Wh .... 12:13 67.6V 0.17A 42.5Wh 12:21 67.6V 0.17A 44.1Wh 12:29 67.6V 0.17A 45.5Wh 12:39 67.6V 0.17A 47.6Wh 12:47 67.6V 0.17A 49.0Wh 12:56 67.6V 0.17A 50.8Wh 13:04 67.6V 0.17A 52.3Wh 13:15 67.6V 0.17A 54.4Wh 13:24 67.6V 0.17A 56.1Wh Thanks
  13. When do you recharge your Ninebot one? I have an e+. Should I wait to 10% to get the longest battery life? Am I risking shot off do to low power? If I recharges at 45% every time and the battery had I hypothetical 100 cycle life would I get 222 charge cycles? Doe it work something like this? If not how does it?
  14. I got my airwheel x3 yesterday that I ordered from a company in China through Aliexpress. I turned it ON but it stopped, turned all the lights on and beeped. Today I figured I would give it a try to charge the battery. Connecting the charger to the unit worked good at first. Charger showed red light at first and green light when finished. Now.. When I attempted to put the airwheel ON, it went fast forward for about 2dm and then it just stopped and beeped. I turned it OFF and tried to turn it ON again, but nothing happened. I connected the charger to the airwheel once again, but this time the red light blinked and the wheel started to vibrate 1 time per second. I've been searching all over the Internet trying to find out what the problem can be. I've been thinking that the problem could be the charger and I'm thinking about ordering a new one. I have emailed the company about this problem but I have not recieved an answer yet. Anybody else with this problem while charging? The airwheel does not show any sign of life by the way, its completely dead.
  15. Does anyone tried to charge their EUs from an electric car? I have a Nissan LEAF and I'm wondering if it is possible to charge my Tg-F3 from the car's 12 V outlet. I'm checking with you all experts before I blow up something on my own . Thanks!