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Found 132 results

  1. WARNING ** THIS BATTERY MAY LIMIT YOUR TOP SPEED ** OVERVIEW: More4Mini is selling a new 3rd-Party battery made for them by the OEM WorldPower Shenzhen World Electric Co. Ltd. “Extended Range Replacement Battery for Segway miniPRO - 355wh 6400mAh” Specifications are listed as: Model: WP-DMR-01 Configuration: 15S2P Voltage: 55.5VDC Capacity: 355Wh / 6400mAh Listed on the battery is LG INR18650, implying that it is based on 18650 cells by LG, The More4Mini website also states that LG cells are used, but could not provide the specific model number of the cells. So it is really just about name-dropping, and not about verifiable specifications. Somewhat useful given the problems with battery manufacturing, but lacking for a technical product. If we can assume the specifications are done similar to the original batteries, then the 355Wh / 6400mAh hour capacity would be when charged to 63V rather than the 55.5V Nominal voltage, or the 59.5V used by the standard North American Charger. More4Mini claims a 20% increase in mileage, but does not have any basis for this statement that they were willing to share. Based on the full Wh or mAh capacity, the increase would be somewhere between 12% and 14%, but the dynamics for estimating the increase are too varied given the potentially different discharge profile of the battery, and the operating environment variables such as rider weight, terrain, individual user’s speed/acceleration profile, enforced speed reductions by the MiniPro, etc. I would assume the stated 20% increase would be based on the 59.5V charge of the standard charger, but it is not explicitly stated. COST METRICS: Using the full 355Wh spec and the current cost of $200US, this works out to $0.56/Wh, which is an OK price, but not a super deal in terms of pure $/Wh. The Segway 310Wh battery, based on More4Mini pricing ($255) works out to $0.82/Wh which is on the expensive side. Keep in mind one is not getting the full capacity of these batteries if using the stock charger, so the real theoretical cost is higher. The actual cost would need to measure the actual Watt/Hours used during operating the device as all these numbers are nominal and can vary widely from actual use on the widely varying motor load of the MiniPro. Raw cost of 18650 capacity for a general consumer ranges from $0.20-$0.80/Wh ($0.40 for quality cells), and one would actually expect to get a discount when buying in bulk such as a battery pack as the extra electronics usually are very inexpensive. so a cost of $0.40/Wh is good value in a pack like this, but since it is custom with limited demand, the $0.56/Wh cost of this battery is reasonable. TESTING: I bought this battery just for fun, and to see how well it worked with the MiniPro. I feel the reported increase in capacity is not enough for someone to want to upgrade their battery, but if one is looking for a new battery or a second battery, then the increased capacity would be nice. It should be able to maintaining a higher top-speed for longer at the very least, and that is useful as I really hate how the MiniPro must reduce top speed as the battery is discharged. The battery weighed 1923g. This is roughly 110g less than a fully charged Segway 310Wh battery. The voltage of the battery when delivered was 57.9V. The battery is sealed, so I won’t be ripping it open today before testing. The standard charger connector is used with the threaded collar just as the original, and the connector cover is good. I like the charge connector cover better than the original, it stays put, and I think it will last as long. The battery did not include the small rubber insulators/seals/washers for the 4 screw holes, but it does have the recesses for them. This is unfortunate, but not a huge deal. There is a little LED on the back of the battery, or at least a window for one, but it does not blink or do anything when the battery is not connected to a charger. There was no light on the battery when connected to a charger either, at least not at its current charge state. I suspect the light is non functional. NO BMS COMMUNICATION. As expected the battery has no communication from the BMS in the pack (I presume there is one), with the MiniPro, so there is “no” battery information provided in the App. The App shows the speed is limited to 10km/h on my Segway, I’m using v4.0 of the Ninebot App, and I’ll have to check the firmware version. Alexey from More4Mini, said he was not speed limited, but did not use the App. I will need to do a road test to see if that is true, but I’m not very hopeful as I think the firmware has limited the speed with the battery. If true this is a real show-stopper, if it just means one cannot use the App when using the battery this is less of an issue, but inconvenient since you won't be able to watch your speed. tried charging the battery from its delivered state using the stock Ninebot charger specified as 59.5V (OC Voltage measures 59.61V). After 80 minutes the charger light turned to the undocumented yellow/amberish color, the battery measured 59.18V (charger connected), then at 90min it had turned to green and the battery measured 59.21V (charger connected). The ending voltage of the battery (charger disconnected, 15+ min rest) was 59.15V. So it would appear that charging the battery with the stock MiniPro charger worked as expected. I moved it onto a 63V charger, since I figured at this point it was best to have a full charge on the batteries. After 45min the charger had a green light, and I didn’t give it any extra balance or top up time, the battery measured 62.3V Unfortunately the road-test failed. Speed was severely limited I could not not ride it, it was just too annoying. Tilt-back would just bring me to a standstill as I tried to go up a small incline near my place. it worked ok for a 5km/h, or less, trip to the garbage bins, but anything more than that it was not tolerable for me. Since it was dark and starting to snow I didn’t spend any time trying different things. I never connected with the App after installing the battery, so clearly, as is pretty well understood, the firmware was limiting the speed. I used my oldest Segway but it uses, v1.4.0 firmware and I don’t plan to update it as I’ve heard nothing about the latest updates and I’m worried they will restrict the 63V chargers or may other annoying changes as they have done in the past. It is hard to downgrade the firmware and I don't want to mess with that. CONCLUSION: I’d recommend sticking with the official batteries if you are on firmware 1.4.0 or later as this battery is not really usable with a 10km/h limit (or possibly even slower before tiltback kicks in). Maybe someone else will test it with earlier firmware or More4Mini will provide more information on what is required to remove the speed restriction, but it seems to work the same as all the other 3rd-Party batteries so I’m not sure anything really can be done outside of changing the firmware. I guess this was a case of too-good-to-be-true.
  2. hello wheelies, I have an extra battery installed in my Ks16 b. my battery gauge in the new kingson app app still shows 28 km remainder range display, in new kingsong app, or keep cycling for display, in old kingsong app. but it would have to be displayed twice the km. Can someone tell me if I can change something in the app so that the miles are displayed correctly?
  3. Hi, I have a Gotway MCM3 and I like it very much. Yesterday I went to work with it and there the battery (according to the app) was at about 40%. I charged (or thought I did, maybe I did something wrong). When I wanted to go home it said it was at 20%, which meant I couldn't ride it home. I went back charged for about 8min. To use it to go to the bus. It then said it was 60% full. At home, I charged it until the charger LED turned green. Then it said it was 80%. Later on, I connected it again and the LED was red for a while and then turned green. It still said 80%. I use the non-social gotway1.0 app. Is there any accuracy in the state of charge indication when switching on? Did you find a trick to check whether it is fully charged? Do you have a means to charge fully? Thanks!
  4. The eBike Option

    A few months ago... I decided to upgrade my crappy Walmart bike to an entry level eBike, so I took a chance and spent $300 on a crowdfunded kit. (Not yet manufactured.) ...Now, I have the opportunity to double the range (2 x 180Wh battery) at the early-bird discount price ($50). Details: According to Swytch, kit uses 3.6V 2500mAh 18650 batteries (generic?) Claimed weight of 2.1Kg for 180Wh pack and only 3kg for (double) 360Wh pack. (How?) The pack is just a metal box with a charging port that gets stored in the bag up front.
  5. Hello, Any of you, thought using his EUC as battery booster ? Recently I ran out of battery with my motorcycle. I went back home to take my cables and came back to the bike on my EUC. Once arrived, I had to ask someone his battery to connect my cables while I had a 840Wh battery between the feet. In conclusion, did anyone imagine doing an outside exit of the EUC battery to connect the clamps?
  6. So, I know what the Charge Doctor can be used for but I have no idea how to program it. It has one button !! I read this: http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/11/12/autocut-adjustment/ from the maker's website, but I'm no closer to knowing how to program the 80% (or whatever) cut off for battery preservation. I bought the V2 with two inputs, as I have 2 chargers, fyi.
  7. This is a short summary of information I collected comparing Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4, LFP) batteries as used in the Uniwheel with the wide spread Lithium-Ion (LiCoO2) batteries used AFAIK in all other brands, no-names, mobile phones... LiFePO4 are roughly about twice as heavy and twice as large as LiCoO2, and they have a higher self-discharge rate. Otherwise, they seem to have only advantages. They are safer, more environment friendly, about 10 times more powerful(!), have a very low voltage drop under discharge (i.e. considerably less power drop on low charge), are more tolerant to abuse, live about twice as long, and are cheaper per cycle. Sources: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/bu_216_summary_table_of_lithium_based_batteries http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion https://greentransportation.info/energy-transportation/energy-density.html http://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4/LiFeMnPO4-Batteries.aspx
  8. Hi, I'm new to this website and I need help with my IPS 191 I remember that I charged my EUC last week and tonight when turned it on, it started to beep constantly. The battery must be full as the green light won't blink. It sounds like the time when you crash and it suddenly starts to beep and flash lights! Has anyone experienced this problem? I own a Llohtz IPS 191 which I purchased last December and It has been lightly used since. (50miles on the mileage) The app connects but shows no battery whatsoever! Unfortunately, the charger light shows green as soon as I plug that in. So, I'm confused...! Is it the charger or I'm going to have to investigate it further? I just don't know where to start. tnx
  9. Hi Guys, Do you know if there are any portable chargers for EUC batteries with a Turbine or Pedal ? There are already portable chargers for mobile phones. I think it would be a great solution in emergency cases. Here is one example for mobile phones:
  10. My question is for riders who have tested the same model while fully charged with different sized batteries. Did the bigger battery increase acceleration, power, and/or weight?
  11. Toshiba's New Battery Tech

    An interesting advancement. 3 x capacity. 6 minute charge time. Charging as low as 14F temp. 5000 cycle lifespan to 90% original capacity. Sounds like Li Ion heaven... If it can be mass produced cheaply. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/toshibas-breakthrough-battery-can-charge-in-six-minutes/
  12. Shutdowns generally end like this and are as painful as this looks. Notice how her feet are in space and can't push against anything to break the fall. If, like me, you ride slower than you can run, overleans and other mishaps can be recovered by stepping off but the physics is different in a shutdown and you can't just step off. It is like this. This guy demonstrates the technique for an unpowered dismount. From the moment of unbalance he is falling but he lifts his knee quickly enough to get his foot forward under his body and uses the forward momentum to lift him like a pole vaulter. He knows it's coming and the physics is not opposite to what he is expecting so a shutdown for you is more difficult than for him. My four ended in more pain than any other mishap. On many wheels battery protection has been prioritised over rider protection which can lead to a shutdown without warning. Wheels designed this way and fitted with low quality batteries can shut down at any time but even with good batteries they become dangerous as the batteries age. A rider is only likely to be aware of a rare and mysterious catastrophic failure on a wheel that was for a long time safe. Early battery replacement with good cells will avoid shutdowns or the battery can be modified. The graph below for an Airwheel X8 shows published battery data overlaid with testing data of an aging cell X (black), damaged cells X (grey) and a generic battery with different, damaged cells X (blue). The discharge rate for the X tests was 0.2 amps. The aging cells were still able to sustain a voltage above the tilt back/warning voltage long enough to warn a rider but the damaged cells went from above the warning voltage to below the shutdown voltage too quickly. The generic battery had a shutdown voltage higher than the warning voltage, making it unsuitable for this Airwheel X8 from new. A longer version of this summary is published elsewhere.
  13. This forum post has a ton of researched information and links about the interaction between a battery, ESC, and motor, particularly the role of the power-filter capacitors. The takeaway is that shortening the battery wires will always be better for the longevity of the electronics, as well as potentially improving performance. I may be wrong about this next part, but I also think that most EUC's would benefit from larger power capacitors (in the range of 4700-10,000uF; as opposed to the ~2,000uF found in most) I expect it would be better for the batteries to experience less "stutter" between charging and discharging while the unicycle starts and stops, and that the added buffer of power could actually help it handle bumps better, by providing an extra 10-15 amps in parallel with the battery pack. It'd also be important to pick capacitors with a low ESR or they won't be able to make use of their capacity. I'm considering adding a couple more on to my msuper v2, just on top of the ones already installed. Fortunately the roomy electronics compartments lends itself to this, compared to more "packed" unicycles.
  14. Some of you in So Cal may remember when @Marty Backe sold me his KS14C just before the fuse blew. Fortunately I was only a mile or two away from my spare wheel then, and not 8-9 miles like other mishaps. Wait! what if you are 6,7,8 miles away from help and you have a blown fuse? Thats what I was thinking, so I bought a pack of 25 fast acting 40amp mini blade fuses, took one out for the blown fuse and taped two fuses to the inside of the battery compartment as shown below. 🤓 If anyone needs a few fuses 40amp, let me know. I still got 23. Wait, 21 after I tape two more in the 500w kingsong too. EDIT- the fuses are that cellophane fuzzy thing just to the right of the single fuse just above the beige battery connector.
  15. I have been thinking about extending range in a non-invasive way, ie a method that does not require changes to the specifications of the wheel. Maybe someone can validate the following: a solar cell is embedded on the outside of the back-pack that I carry when riding my wheel. This charges a capacitor, also within my back-pack, that - when filled - drop-charges the charge into a spare EUC battery. When the wheel battery has no more charge, I click it out of my wheel and exchange it with the one from my back-pack and continue my journey. This battery swapping should take about 2 minutes in an idealised sense, ie far shorter than charging at a charge point. I understand that the solar cell specifications would not suffice the battery to get fully charged within the time it takes to fully deplete the original battery. For my Ninebot I would need 1.9A and 61V to achieve the desired power output and the current generation of solar cells do not achieve this. Even more so, the power output is influenced by ambient shading and the cell's angle, so very far from the theoretical maximum. Then also I would need to modify the Ninebot for it to be equipped with swappable batteries.
  16. Hello After more than a year working on my blog about the Mini, I decided a few days ago to monetize my blog, it reached more than 11,400 visitors from 115 countries. By joining affiliate programs with resellers, I choose spare parts and accessories for the Mini. I try to pay attention to quality even if it is difficult. I would touch a small percentage of a sale made, which will perhaps allow me to improve my blog, will see, I start with these programs. https://mini-j.jimdo.com/shop-guide/ It is therefore in total transparency that I announce the creation of a new site attached to my blog, called "Mini-J-S-G" (for the entire title: mini-j shopping guide) (cancelling) jojo33
  17. Hi, I am new to EUCs but have done some extensive research on them and am purchasing for my first wheel quite soon. I would like some input on whether or not there are incidents of EUC explosions and fire. I know hoverboards have been banned on college campuses around the US due to these incidents. Bans aside, I would like to know the frequency of such incidents compared to those of hoverboards. I know that the consumer population for hoverboards is/was larger than that of the EUC, and if that isn't the case, then there is much more widespread news coverage of hoverboard fire accidents. Any thoughts? Thanks!
  18. I've been looking all over the place online and can't seem to find a respectable place where i can purchase an extra/replacement battery for my Ninebot S2. Is there a place where I haven't looked? Link please? Thank you all
  19. Hello everyone! This is my first post since i joined in. I got this MCM4 340 WH, as this was my first unicycle, I didn't want to toss that much money ordering higher capacity version, cause I was not sure if I would enjoy this new mean of transportation . After one week of using this thingy I noticed It gives me much fun, however I would like to upgrade battery pack with another 340 WH. Asked my seller about the price of 340WH pack, he told me it will be 250 $ + 120$ shipping cost (the batteries are claimed to be 2900mah panasonic ones), the cost of 370 usd for the battery pack for me is quite pricy TBH, and I was wondering if it would be worth me to do a DIY battery pack. I am familiar with soldering iron, and with really basic knowledge of electronics. What is your opinion on 370 $ 340 WH battery pack, is it pricy or not? Do you know any trusted supplier, that offers whole battery packs for less money? Could you folks toss me some hints regarding DIY batt packs? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Cheers
  20. Hey Guys I'm having my MSuper S+ ground-shipped from California to Montreal, Canada but it just struck me it will spend 5 days in the back of a FedEx truck that's not air-conditioned. Isn't that bad for the batteries?? It's a brand new, expensive wheel and I don't want to receive it with a battery pack that will have aged prematurely. I checked the outside temperatures of where it's at now and it gets to 35 degrees Celsius and more... @Rehab1, @Mono, @Marty Backe, @Hunka Hunka Burning Love? Tagging you guys because I see your names often on the forum and you all seem knowledgeable about this. Hope it doesn't bother you! Thanks
  21. I'm trying a new way to change the cells of my wheel. I bought these cases for 18650 because I do not have a soldering machine. Remove the cells and raise another possibility, which is charge them separately or for easy health check up. The first test without BMS: it works but low power, does not go up hills. Three of the cells are of poor quality, so maybe that's why. Next tests I intend to connect the BMS in the cases.
  22. After a ton of searching and reading I've concluded that battery capacity, longevity, and what we can do to preserve them has been the topic of many conversation on this forum. It is understandable too. After all the ability of the battery to safely deliver in an array of circumstances and environmental conditions makes the difference between a safe ride and a face-plant. Replacement power packs also seem to cost about the same as half of a new wheel! Ouch! I've been concentrating on what I can do to preserve the capacity of the battery in my newly ordered Inmotion V8. For the type of wheel the V8 has a relatively low capacity and so a restricted range compared to say the KS 16S but wins in the area of waistline and weight. I'm loath to start another thread when there are so many already but I have a few questions that appear to have, so far, been unanswered. Conventional wisdom on the forum derived through discussion and a heavy reliance on the information from Battery University (batteryuniversity.com hereafter referred to as BU) is that if you can get away with only charging to 80% and performing 50% discharge you will return you the best bang for your battery buck with regards to increasing the number of charge cycles by 4 or 5 times. BU reports that EV's such as the Nissan Leaf and Tesla models do this by charging to 80% capacity for a "full tank" and considering 30% to be an "empty tank". This maximizes charge cycles of the hugely expensive batteries and then by dynamically increasing this usage range beyond the initial 50% limit as the battery ages the vehicle is able maintain mileage specs over a number of years. BU considers a full charge discharge cycle to take a single cell's voltage from 3.0V (empty) to 4.2V(full). So following their suggestion of say an 80% capacity charge and only 50% usage to 30% capacity suggests a charged cell voltage of 3.96V and a discharged cell voltage as 3.36V. This is where I want help. The thing is, in the interest of safety I understand most EUC manufacturers artificially increase the "empty" voltage of a cell above 3.0V. From information I read on this forum from Jason Inmotion's cutoff voltage is 68V (over a 20 series 2 parallel setup) giving an empty cell voltage of 3.4V. With this in mind, ignoring any safety aspects of potential for restricted current delivery at low voltages, to achieve the best balance of capacity and longevity from my V8 battery I should charge to 80% (according to a 3rd party too such as the Charge Doctor, not the V8's battery indicator) cell capacity (3.96V) and then discharge until the V8 considers the tank dry (actual 3.4V) which in reality BU would consider still to be 33% actual cell capacity. Thus I consumed only 47% capacity. Do you agree with this conclusion? If I were to charge to 80% and discharge to 30% following the Inmotion battery indicator only for both levels then I'm guessing I'd actually be charging to 4.04V (80% of the 3.4V to 4.2V range, 86% of actual 3.0 to 4.2V cell range) and discharging to 3.64V (30% of the 3.4V to 4.2V range, 53% of actual 3.0 to 4.2V cell range) meaning I actually only get to use 33% of the real battery capacity vs the 50% I think I'm using. In another post on the forum in Jason's initial review of the V8 prototype he says that the V8 remained responsive and performed well right down to empty. So, if Inmotion keeps so much power in reserve and the wheel appears solid even at lower voltages I'm thinking of doing the 80% charge via Charge Doctor and drain to near flat as my usual routine to hit that balance of range and longevity (unless it is cold, then I’ll leave extra in the tank). What are your thoughts, first on my initial battery conclusions and then on my consideration to use the battery down to Inmotion’s definition of empty? I appreciate your input. P.S. If we can keep the discussion relatively layman that would be awesome!
  23. BMS specs for MSuper V3S 84v

    Hi, does anyone knows what specs are the standard bms for the 20s from gotway? I'm looking specifically at the max current rating that I need for an extra battery pack. thank you
  24. I´m making my NEW Battery

    Hi! Im making my new battery for my EUC and I answer questions. Im following the steps of this page: http://infoelectricos.com/bateria-electric-unicycle/ This will be 16S and will have 180Wh Thank you
  25. Hi everyone, I am pretty new to this kind of vehicles, the ninebot is my first one and I just love it so far. Learned to ride it in 3 days and making improvements every day (turning still needs some practise). But what I find somewhat bad is the low battery behaiviour so I just wanted to ask around if this is totally normal. I had it twice until now and it caused me to jump off the unit twice... at around 40% battery and 10km (6.2 miles) remaining distance, it starts beeping and is tilting back so hard that I feel like I'm about to fall of on my back. I totally understand that there needs to be some safety behaviour, but 1) I think 40% is way too early and 2) the tilting is too hard, it would rather cause an injury on an unexperienced rider than a safe stop. Is there any way to modify this? I would love to hear warning beeps at 40% from time to time and tilting / slowing down at 25% or so, this would give me the chance to finish my ride safely before the tilting occurs. Or are my values unusual? Will they improve with more total mileage / battery cycles? Thanks in advance
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