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Found 113 results

  1. The battery of my unicycle died, so I decided to test it. It worked perfectly with Xiaomi's ninebot mini battery. I'll test the range on the weekend.
  2. Most unicycles use bicycles' BMS which has a overdischarge cut-off circuit (Q1) to prevent the battery from discharging under the LiIon recommanded voltage. It's a feature usefull for off-the-shelf bicycles' batteries but for monocycles, it's 1) unecessary since the mainboard deals quite well with voltage warning 2) utterly, incredibly stupid since a cutoff by the BMS results in a faceplant for the rider. In other words, the wheel's designer prefers to protect the battery by hurting the user!!! Many many users have been harmed, especially when the wheel is cold (under 10°C), since the batteries' internal resistance increases and triggers the cut-off more easily. Of course, not all wheels are affected by such incredibly stupid "feature". AFAIK, Solowheel, Ninebot, Inmotion, ie reputable brands don't cut off. Gotway has early versions that cut-off but its recent BMSs don't, since the cut-off circuit has been removed. All others do, if not proven otherwise. So they are dangerous since the probability of cut-off will increase with cold weather coming and higher internal resistance due to natural battery aging. For prospective unicycle buyers, insist to have a safe BMS, ie without the cut-off. With enough pressure from users, the Shenzen genious will end up repairing this horrible blunder. For those stuck with an unsafe wheel, the BMS cut-off circuit MUST be shunted. When touching the battery pack, if you can feel under the shrinkwrap film the big mosfet transistors, it means the BMS must be shunted. The idea is to connect the battery's 0V (B-) directly to the power output (P-), bypassing the mosfets T1 responsible for the stupid cutoff : see the dotted green line in the schematics below. (B-) and (P-) are now standard markings on most BMS boards, so any BMS can be modified by laymen based on this principle. You can see immediately the improvement by testing the wheel with strong accelerations, no more cut-off, ever ! Enjoy and have a safe ride. Below are some examples of BMS shunt. Some remarks : - no need to disconnect the battery during the operation - for Airwheels, only dismount the half housing on the side of the battery (the side without the control panel). - T1 is usually composed of 2 or 3 or even more Mosfets, so it's distinctive from X1 usually made of just one mosfet. - On most boards' layouts, T1 is marked as Q1, X1 is marked as Q2 P.S. For more pictures and photos source credit of modders, see my original thread here : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/sutra13862_solution-probleme-bms.html#13862 TG BMS. The T1 transistors can be felt through the plastic wrap. The plastic is scapeled around T1. T1 is made of 3 paralleled MOSFET transistors. MOSFET's drain & source pins are shunted by a solder blob. Warning, avoid shunting X1 Mosfet. The plastic is closed by electrician tape. A smaller opening can be made, mine is unecessarily big. TG BMS, with CMS Mosfet Dolphin D5 BMS. 3 mostfets T1 are shunted. X1 at extreme right is NOT shunted. T1 and X1 are detected by measuring the mosfet' gate voltage (pin 1) : paralled mosfets have the same gate voltage.. Airwheel X8 BMS. T1 and X1 are not easily distinguishable. When in doubt, shunt the two middle Mosfets. Recent version Gotway BMS : no T1 circuit => no shunt to do. It's a safe BMS. Aliexpress generic battery BMS (Q1=T1 ; Q2=X1) Another Airwheel BMS, shunt directly B- to P- instead of shunting the mosfets Another generic wheel BMS. Shunt B- to P- SML160 BMS. Don't bother with shunting the mosfets. Shunt B- to P- instead. Firewheel BMS. B- shunted to P- by a big wire. Route the wire like in the picture to avoid adding thickness to the battery pack. Note that the B- wire here is red instead of the usual black color code for negative pole, an occurrence of lack of care (other Firewheel BMSs have the right color, ie black) which can be very misleading. Edit 2015/05/25 : Q1 & Q2 are ambiguous, replaced by T1 & X1
  3. Hi, does anyone knows what specs are the standard bms for the 20s from gotway? I'm looking specifically at the max current rating that I need for an extra battery pack. thank you
  4. Hey Guys I'm having my MSuper S+ ground-shipped from California to Montreal, Canada but it just struck me it will spend 5 days in the back of a FedEx truck that's not air-conditioned. Isn't that bad for the batteries?? It's a brand new, expensive wheel and I don't want to receive it with a battery pack that will have aged prematurely. I checked the outside temperatures of where it's at now and it gets to 35 degrees Celsius and more... @Rehab1, @Mono, @Marty Backe, @Hunka Hunka Burning Love? Tagging you guys because I see your names often on the forum and you all seem knowledgeable about this. Hope it doesn't bother you! Thanks
  5. I'm trying a new way to change the cells of my wheel. I bought these cases for 18650 because I do not have a soldering machine. Remove the cells and raise another possibility, which is charge them separately or for easy health check up. The first test without BMS: it works but low power, does not go up hills. Three of the cells are of poor quality, so maybe that's why. Next tests I intend to connect the BMS in the cases.
  6. I'm not sure of the best place to put this post, so I am going with the IPS section, and will link it back to other relevant places... So today I rode my Lhotz from a full charge, directly uphill to check how it handled (while monitoring the stats). Leg 1 - Uphill Starting elevation: 100m Starting charge: 100% Starting temperature: 16°C Starting load: 115kg Finishing elevation: 250m Finishing charge: ~70% Finishing temperature: 49.5°C Distance travelled: 2000m So I wheeled hard on the uphill, while watching the stats. I wanted to see what the point of failure was... And while I expected my wheel to beep me (requesting a rest) I expected it to be due to the temperature - but the reality when I got the warning was that the app was showing the battery status as <15% but the temperature was still less than 50°C. But after stopping, and allowing the wheel to recover, the status ramped back up to around the 70% mark - so after a 30 second stop I was good to go. Now I should point out that this was 1800m (at pace) into the trip, and I did not let up at all along the way (though I may have slowed down a little as I passed the bakery to check out my options for the second leg). Previously I wasn't sure whether I needed to stop due to temperature or battery drain, but this is now confirmed. I am expecting to take some flak for this, but my statement now is that, "For a heavier rider going uphil, the battery drain can be more significant than the temperature." And in my case, the load became the limiting factor well before the temperature was an issue. Interestingly, it wasn't a torque issue, as the wheel still had a lot of pull in it, but it just didn't have enough stored energy available to draw on to power through? Is this a limitation of the battery technology? Leg 2 - Downhill This was a bit more experimental... The IPS app kept crashing (and I don't think I can use WheelLog) - It seemed to crash particularly when I was on the steeper downhill sections. I wonder if this was when the motor power was a negative value (regenerating) and it didn't understand how to present that? But what I did notice is that while the app showed power usage around 15-20% (while travelling ~10km/h) I did end up at the finish line with the battery charged to around 80% . Overall, my observations (and feeling) makes me think that on the "shallow" downhill, I am still using power to actively drive, but on the steeper sections, power is flowing back into the battery as one would expect. My conclusion is that, at slower speeds with a heavier load, it requires a steeper gradient to achieve regenerative power - and a percentage is actually used on the shallower gradients to maintain a constant (slower) speed. And continuing on that thought - I was interested to note the "stopped" effort - on the flat, I can hold onto something and the motor power to keep me upright is 1-3%. But on a good hill, it is 10-15% Okay, that is me - everyone feel free to shred my comments with science - I am more than happy to be wrong, I just want to understand all of this more!
  7. After a ton of searching and reading I've concluded that battery capacity, longevity, and what we can do to preserve them has been the topic of many conversation on this forum. It is understandable too. After all the ability of the battery to safely deliver in an array of circumstances and environmental conditions makes the difference between a safe ride and a face-plant. Replacement power packs also seem to cost about the same as half of a new wheel! Ouch! I've been concentrating on what I can do to preserve the capacity of the battery in my newly ordered Inmotion V8. For the type of wheel the V8 has a relatively low capacity and so a restricted range compared to say the KS 16S but wins in the area of waistline and weight. I'm loath to start another thread when there are so many already but I have a few questions that appear to have, so far, been unanswered. Conventional wisdom on the forum derived through discussion and a heavy reliance on the information from Battery University (batteryuniversity.com hereafter referred to as BU) is that if you can get away with only charging to 80% and performing 50% discharge you will return you the best bang for your battery buck with regards to increasing the number of charge cycles by 4 or 5 times. BU reports that EV's such as the Nissan Leaf and Tesla models do this by charging to 80% capacity for a "full tank" and considering 30% to be an "empty tank". This maximizes charge cycles of the hugely expensive batteries and then by dynamically increasing this usage range beyond the initial 50% limit as the battery ages the vehicle is able maintain mileage specs over a number of years. BU considers a full charge discharge cycle to take a single cell's voltage from 3.0V (empty) to 4.2V(full). So following their suggestion of say an 80% capacity charge and only 50% usage to 30% capacity suggests a charged cell voltage of 3.96V and a discharged cell voltage as 3.36V. This is where I want help. The thing is, in the interest of safety I understand most EUC manufacturers artificially increase the "empty" voltage of a cell above 3.0V. From information I read on this forum from Jason Inmotion's cutoff voltage is 68V (over a 20 series 2 parallel setup) giving an empty cell voltage of 3.4V. With this in mind, ignoring any safety aspects of potential for restricted current delivery at low voltages, to achieve the best balance of capacity and longevity from my V8 battery I should charge to 80% (according to a 3rd party too such as the Charge Doctor, not the V8's battery indicator) cell capacity (3.96V) and then discharge until the V8 considers the tank dry (actual 3.4V) which in reality BU would consider still to be 33% actual cell capacity. Thus I consumed only 47% capacity. Do you agree with this conclusion? If I were to charge to 80% and discharge to 30% following the Inmotion battery indicator only for both levels then I'm guessing I'd actually be charging to 4.04V (80% of the 3.4V to 4.2V range, 86% of actual 3.0 to 4.2V cell range) and discharging to 3.64V (30% of the 3.4V to 4.2V range, 53% of actual 3.0 to 4.2V cell range) meaning I actually only get to use 33% of the real battery capacity vs the 50% I think I'm using. In another post on the forum in Jason's initial review of the V8 prototype he says that the V8 remained responsive and performed well right down to empty. So, if Inmotion keeps so much power in reserve and the wheel appears solid even at lower voltages I'm thinking of doing the 80% charge via Charge Doctor and drain to near flat as my usual routine to hit that balance of range and longevity (unless it is cold, then I’ll leave extra in the tank). What are your thoughts, first on my initial battery conclusions and then on my consideration to use the battery down to Inmotion’s definition of empty? I appreciate your input. P.S. If we can keep the discussion relatively layman that would be awesome!
  8. Hi everyone, I am pretty new to this kind of vehicles, the ninebot is my first one and I just love it so far. Learned to ride it in 3 days and making improvements every day (turning still needs some practise). But what I find somewhat bad is the low battery behaiviour so I just wanted to ask around if this is totally normal. I had it twice until now and it caused me to jump off the unit twice... at around 40% battery and 10km (6.2 miles) remaining distance, it starts beeping and is tilting back so hard that I feel like I'm about to fall of on my back. I totally understand that there needs to be some safety behaviour, but 1) I think 40% is way too early and 2) the tilting is too hard, it would rather cause an injury on an unexperienced rider than a safe stop. Is there any way to modify this? I would love to hear warning beeps at 40% from time to time and tilting / slowing down at 25% or so, this would give me the chance to finish my ride safely before the tilting occurs. Or are my values unusual? Will they improve with more total mileage / battery cycles? Thanks in advance
  9. Hi! Im making my new battery for my EUC and I answer questions. Im following the steps of this page: http://infoelectricos.com/bateria-electric-unicycle/ This will be 16S and will have 180Wh Thank you
  10. Here is the parts list (total cost less than $10USD): 1. 2x flat nylon washers (about $1 for 6) 2. 2x flat steel washers (about $4 for 100) 3. 1x 6" section of 5/8" self-stick corner guard (about $3 for 4-8') 4. stubby screwdriver - BYOT See the video linked here and discussed here. The instructions are embedded in the photos. If you have any questions or comments, just ask.
  11. This thread and the companion tutorial (separate topic) are for all you Ninebot One die-hards out there, as well as new riders who have purchased, or still intend to buy One. I realise that many visitors to this site started on this model but have (long) since moved up to bigger/ faster wheels. I'm still holding out for a compelling reason to upgrade, mostly because the NB1E+ still meets most of my needs. It's reliable and durable, and for me, it was inexpensive (RIP @FORWARD california ). Even with two spare batteries, charger adapters, battery cases, spare rims, tires, tubes, torch/headlamp brackets, vinyl wrap, and four helmets, I have barely spent $1000.00 in the past year. That's real value for money. For the areas where I ride most (rough sidewalk, side streets with lots of road damage), it's nearly fast enough and well suited to the terrain, but the range with a single 320wh battery was a problem. So, over the last eight months, I purchased two spare OEM battery packs. I was inspired by the mods published by @SuperSport et al., but wanted a more secure solution. My implementation keeps the battery cover securely fastened top and bottom with all tabs intact. I have been testing this solution for the past month and know it to be durable and effective. A visual tutorial has been posted in the Mod section. Here is a short video demonstrating how quick and easy it is to swap out the battery now.
  12. Hello. Today i got a hoverboard from my brother. It was suppose to be for my birthday but he was in our country at the time. So what he said is that the hoverboard is great but when it's low on battery it doesn't show and today i was having fun with the hoverboard and the same happened. The hoverboard was out of battery and it stopped immediately the hoverboard started going upside down and i felt hardly on the ground (cause it's my first time on a hoverboard) and my knees hurt now :/ So what's the problem? My hoverboard is Kingstar's hoverboard black :/ And when i turn it on everything works fine when i step on it a circle kinda thing shows and the battery stays green all the time. Please help. Thank you.
  13. As I mentioned earlier, and always raising interest, I am currently upgrading my IPS 191 "Lhotz" 340 Wh with an additional 16s pack of 18650 cells. So here is some documentary about this mod, so anyone can consider if it's worth it. Some details: I use Samsung SDI INR18650-30Q cells, as they are available quite cheap around here and had some good tests, beeing able to output 20A cont. while beeing rated by Samsung for 15A. However, turns out that even at 20A this cell can compete with the infamous LG HG2. Rated at 3 Ah this gives me 3*3,7*16=177,6 Wh additional capacity, making my Lhotz a roughly 520 Wh wheel! As these 30Qs have an internal resistance of only 18 mOhms, as opposed to 35 mOhms of the stock Panasonics IPS uses, this should nearly half the voltage drop under load, giving me either further additional range, or at the same range less limitations due to low voltage. Well not gonna bore you any longer with this, here are the pics. First, starting point: (the beeper was moved up prior to taking this photo, otherwise this is how the internals looked) How do we get 16 18650s in there? First idea: Fits comfortably in there, but wiring would be a real mess. So I came up with this: Nice and thight, and all the cells relatively compact together. I will not document on how to build the actual packs from the cells, this has been documente often enough on the internet I you want to do this, just keep in mind there is no space at disposal, just make those packs as tight and small as possible. Packs assembled and test fitted in: As you will have guessed, I will hook the new pack to the BMS of the wheel, thus all the thin white cables. In the bottom left corner you can see the connectors and how I dasy chained them, so i can plug both batteries to the BMS. I will do the same with the XT60 connector, so I don't have to touch any of the origianl wiring, besindes some relocation. Thus I can always extract my additional battery without much fuzz. As the packs are positioned tight against the metal controlboard box, I added an extra rub protection cardboard layer inside the shrinkwrap of the packs. But there won't be much rubbing here, it's a really thight fit! I should further mention that the sprew posts in the places where the new battery sits need to be removed. Left to do: finish the connections, fix all the wires in place, fasten the batteries,
  14. Do somebody know a site where a power bank is sold for EUC's with the appropriate plug. This would be nice when you do exceptionally a long distance without finding a plug. Even if you have a EUC with big battery (60km range), after 2 years the capacity decreases to the half or to one third of the initial distance range. For normal daily travel, even 20km range would still be enough but it is possible that you want to do more some day. A power bank can be the solution.
  15. I suspect when I carry a full backpack the regeneration of battery charge is highest ¿any clue to confirm that? Thanks
  16. Cheaper, 3 times more energy dense, unaffected by extreme weather, and longer cycle life? They need to implement these ASAP! https://hypebeast.com/2017/3/john-b-goodenough-glass-battery The 94-Year-Old Inventor of the Lithium-Ion Battery Has Come up With the Next Great Battery Design The efficient, low-cost creation could be the next major breakthrough for electric cars. By T.S. Fox · Mar 8, 2017 in Tech · 12 Comments 475Shares Known for his role in the development of the lithium-ion battery, John B. Goodenough — now an emeritus professor at the Cockrell School of Engineering at the University of Texas, Austin — has come up with what may be the next major battery-related breakthrough: a tiny all-glass design. Developed by Goodenough and senior fellow Maria Helena Braga alongside a team of researchers, the new low-cost, solid-state design is both safer and more efficient than its predecessor thanks to its use of a sodium- or lithium-coated glass electrolyte — one that can store three times as much power as a lithium-ion alternative. Best of all, though, is that the battery can withstand extreme temperatures, charge in just minutes, and offers more than 1,200 charge-discharge cycles — meaning it will last significantly longer than a lithium-ion battery. And the glass design isn’t only cheaper and more efficient — it’s safer, too. Since it doesn’t form the dendrites that accumulate with a lithium-ion battery’s charge-discharge cycle, the glass battery won’t short circuit or burn — a problem that ultimately plagues its lithium-ion counterpart. Ultimately, the technology could be used to store energy from the likes of wind and solar systems and also make electric cars infinitely safer and more affordable. “Cost, safety, energy density, rates of charge and discharge and cycle life are critical for battery-driven cars to be more widely adopted. We believe our discovery solves many of the problems that are inherent in today’s batteries,” said Goodenough.
  17. Would love it if anybody could give me a clue on some things to check on my rockwheel, I pressed power button and got nothing, so I figured I just need to charge it. When I plug in the charger, the indicator light on charger stays green. I unplugged the charger and pressed power button, and I have a fading beep sound and charge indicator drops to empty almost immediately. Any ideas, I left it on charger for 30 minutes, light remained green on charger the whole time and when unplugging and then pressing power...same thing. Battery seems to not have charged more than the beeping and light that immediately goes off. By the way, the battery was great before and still was holding full charge.
  18. In an effort to see how many miles I can get out of a single charge, I'm working on draining the battery of my inmotion V8 down to zero. Most of my rides are short, 20 minutes-ish, and roughly 2-4 miles, so it takes me all work week to get there. Anyway, I'm getting close, and just wanted to know if there are any warnings to look out for when riding at a low battery percent? I've been reading other threads, where other wheels get "tilt back" when they are getting low on battery or maybe start to slow down. Do these things happen with inmotion wheels too? When I finally get down to zero % will the wheel just turn off, leaving me with no stabilizing help? Thanks in advance for the help, I'm just trying to prepare myself a little so that I don't end up with a fantastic "face plant" story or worse ...
  19. A simple tutorial for replacing the airwheel battery with a generic battery. I also show how to replace non-fitting connectors.
  20. I usually deplete my battery (240W ninebot one E) rinding for one hour and half. I would like to extend to two hours or more. I need a few watts more in my battery (+100W I think) Since I have another batteries (LIPO, LIFEPO4, etc...) at home to use, and a DC-DC converter that I can carry in my backpack...Do you know if anybody sucesfully tried to charge the ninebot while riding? I think than I can charge the internal battery from an external one with the DC-DC converter working at 63vdc at 1amp, easily (if BMS can handle it). The ninebots appears to work while charging, but no idea if there is a problem under heavy battery demands (using it in the street). Any thoughts?
  21. Hello, I own 2 Ninebot E+'s and the identical issue has happened with both of them, I'm dead in the water for both Ninebots. The Ninebot issue: My Ninebot stopped working after rolling off a 3 inch sidewalk curb. It suddenly lost power and I almost fell. I tried turning it back on and it would immediately shut off. It would only stay on, if I had it resting completely on it's side. Once I righted it straight up, it would immediately turn off. The tire wouldn't roll freely either, it had resistance and had a jerky motion. After getting a new control board from my dealership, I installed it. When I turned on the Ninebot on to pair with my phone, it wouldn't automatically right itself, staying loose on pitch. Also, the right light ring only showed 2 blinking green led lights at the bottom, while the left side of the Ninebot light rings showed nothing at all. I have two batteries, I had fully charged, thinking it might be a low battery, it wasn't. Also, when I tried to charge the battery while it was plugged into the Ninebot, it doesn't charge, showing a green light on the battery charger, instead of red. I assume the gyroscope needs to be reset... am I on the right track. Has this happened to anyone else? Does anyone know how to fix it or a phone number to get in touch with Ninebot itself? Thanks!
  22. I came across this summary of regulations for shipping batteries. Since this issue regularly comes up in the forums, I thought it would be useful to post the article and start a new thread to accumulate any specific experiences from forum members. Lithium-Ion Shipping and Travel Regulations: What You Need to Know
  23. Do somebody know a site where a power bank is sold for EUC's with the appropriate plug? This would be nice when you do exceptionally a long distance without finding a plug. Even if you have a EUC with big battery (60km range), after 2 years the capacity decreases to the half or to one third of the initial distance range. For normal daily travel, even 20km range would still be enough but it is possible that you want to do more some day. A power bank can be the solution.
  24. Do somebody know if there are EUC's with EASY replaceable 18650 Lithium batteries, without welding batteries to each other, without welding resistances between battery cells, without cabling batteries to the electronic motherboard? Only changing the defective standard 18650 batteries as easy as changing a AA battery of the remote controller of a TV should be possible, no? That would be revolutionary in the EUC market. Because now when the batteries are nearly dead (capacity decreases after hundreds of charge discharge cycles) instead of changing only the dead batteries (= maybe the half or 1/3 of the batteries) (=20 dead batteries *10euro=200euro), we have to throw the EUC of 2500 $ to the trash even if the rest of the EUC is working. And even if the rest of the battery pack is working, you have to throw your EUC to the trash because of few dead battery cells. That is a pity. Isn't there an easy way to change the batteries? Or are the companies thinking of producing a such EUC. You do not throw your car when the oil tank of your car is leaking. You only change your tank and you continue using the car. I think companies push us to spend more money to our EUC's by not supporting the after service for batteries. And since the EUC repair shops do not exist yet...
  25. Please post your Gotway average range on a charge, and your battery size. For me I have a 680wh (MCM4), but haven't been able to get it low yet (my lowest was 60% after a few hours of riding). That thing just keeps going! I'll update when I manage to actually get it low.