Hunka Hunka Burning Love

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Everything posted by Hunka Hunka Burning Love

  1. That's the thing - is everyone 100% certain it is just the firmware and have ruled out possibly a hardware issue? This may be what Gotway is saying, but after viewing the events I'm a little leery of trusting what they are saying. When a new jumbo jet crashes unexpectedly, they go over everything with a fine tooth comb. They don't just say yeah we did change some code in the firmware, swap that out, and all will be fine. Maybe it's just the suspicious mind in me (Elvis reference), but when a major failure like this occurs, I'd prefer to be reassured that there are no other issues rather than go on assumptions.
  2. Yes, I read about that, but I thought someone refuted it later on? Maybe @electric_vehicle_lover or @esaj can comment. If that is the case, then at speed, would the wheel continue to function if you unplugged the hall sensor cable or shorted some of the wires out?
  3. I wonder whether one other possibility might be a short in one of the hall sensor legs. It appears that Gotway doesn't insulate the legs like KingSong does plus they solder directly to the frail legs instead of using a PCB junction. If vibration caused a wire to move and short out a sensor temporarily, I wonder if that would throw the balance algorithm off. Or if there is a short in the new motor wiring due to sharp edges during harness installation it may not present itself until the wheel is ridden at higher speeds where harsher vibration occurs. I wish there was some sort of testing lab to experiment on these wheels. That way you could test a wheel while it is under load and running, introduce bumps of differing amplitude, monitor temperature rises under increased load (to simulate steep hill climbing), and to see what occurs when you disable hall sensors. @Marty Backe are you shipping the wheel back to Jason to do a tear down and testing analysis? My concern if I were a dealer of these wheels is that even though you swap out all affected control boards that the problem continues. Without definitively identifying the source of the problem, picking easy solution A may not solve it and result in further injuries. I wonder if Gotway even has one of the affected wheels in their possession to do an analysis on or whether they are guessing at the solution.
  4. Marty, I'm so glad that you are not seriously injured. You were going at a pretty good clip when you hit the sidewalk ramp edge. Maybe it is best to go to a medical centre to have things checked out. I'm thankful that there wasn't like a fire hydrant or sign pole in your path. You were going straight, but imagine if you were turning from the street onto the sidewalk, your trajectory might have been directed to the side instead where hazardous items are located. I usually wear a motorcycle type jacket when riding. It has shoulder pads, elbow L shaped guards, and an optional back pad insert. I have a mesh summer one which is remarkably cool as it lets air pass through and a warmer one that is also rain resistant. You can also get matching padded pants. I watched the accident footage about 10 times, and you can see the wheel hit the slight surface bump and start to oscillate back and forth quickly while beeping to buck you off. I wonder if the bump triggered a current spike or gyro signal irregularity which the firmware was not able to deal with properly. It's almost as if it has lost it's orientation of where level is and the oscillations are the controller trying to stabilize itself and recover. I wonder what the beep was triggered by - over-current, controller loss of balance reference, or other? In testing firmware, they need a simulation rig that can introduce bumps to simulate real world situations while a 250 pound weight is applied to the wheel. This is quite a setback for the sport/hobby, dealers who have to manage the issue, and customers who expect a wheel to perform safely. An user applied firmware update would likely be a simple fix especially in situations like this where a large number of wheels are affected, but unfortunately it sounds like this is not going to be forthcoming from Gotway. To require customers/dealers to swap out the control board just to fix a firmware issue is a bit ridiculous. It would be like Dell refusing to issue firmware updates to motherboards and requiring everyone to swap motherboards out due to firmware bugs. It just doesn't make good business sense. If someone wants to hack the firmware, I'm sure they could send a controller to one of the hacking services to get the STM32F103 MPU dumped without a huge hassle. I think they may be shooting themselves in the foot and hurting customers/dealers by trying to protect their IP.
  5. Does anyone have some photos of the battery packs and wiring setup? If they are all identical 84V packs in parallel, why would there be any spark if they are connected first? Maybe the small leads have something to do with it? Has anyone tested the voltages prior to connecting to make sure all three packs match? Then connect two and check the voltage and polarity on either side of the last connector? I'm just baffled as to why there is such a huge spark. Is there a polarity incongruency somewhere? Say if you connected positive to negative accidentally on the packs instead of positive to positive that would create a huge arc-weld spark explosion as the batteries would discharge at high current. Maybe the parallel connector has a specific pattern that isn't visually obvious so it would be wise to label each wire to match each battery pack? With a sharpie, simply draw a one on the connector and one on the matching connector. Draw a two on the next and so forth. Label the small connectors as well. Before connecting double check voltages and polarities on each side of the connectors?
  6. I think they ultimately were unreliable over time with wear of the components most likely even though they packed them with grease. Also they were noisy as heck. I remember seeing a video and photos of one opened up. It was quite the set up with a bunch of orbital gears inside.
  7. I take mine off-roading sometimes, and I've climbed some pretty steep hills on gravel roads in the park. Nothing as steep as you guys climb though, but close to stall speed on the Ninebot. I used to have a video up, but I removed it. I guess I just don't fall off (except once on slippery ice) so it stays pretty nice. I've got about 987 kms on it so far. With the lights going and the flashy custom graphics, people are pretty dazed when they see me rolling by. Even though I think I probably have one of the only ones in the city, I like that it looks unique. The graphics are sort of a thin film that's melted on, and it chips pretty easily so no stunt crashes for me! I'd love to get a new wheel though like an ACM16, Msuper, KS16S or a GT16 maybe in the future. I'm just waiting for them to iron some of the bugs out.
  8. Thanks! Yep that's my "Precious." I take care of it pretty good. I got me one of the rare $450 Flamebots from Forward California when they were still in business . Rehab1 (he sold his soon after), TJCooper, and I have them. I think these Flame Editions were originally sold in Germany (colours give it away) most likely but made their way over to NA. Others special editions were the carbon fibre one (yourtoys7 in Ontario had one that he sold to RooMiniPro) and the blue Roman with the wheat graphics on the side. You can see the lady in red is riding one in this thread:
  9. "How to Run off a Wheel Cut Out" - taken 1 hour ago...
  10. The S1 does have a handle which has a power on spin stop trigger when lifted, but no trolley handle unfortunately. I haven't seen any made for that model. IPS has some reliable 14" wheels I believe as well. Wow your kid was riding a IM V8? impressive, most impressive! For the money you'd be getting a stylish, reliable all rounder wheel as long as you don't mind the 14" tire. V5F+ is also 14", but people seem to rave about that one. The S1's top 20 kph or 12.5 mph speed is a little on the slow side though. For a kid it might be perfect.
  11. Just realized this is the same "John" from the Speedyfeet videos. It has two batteries for 310 wh so that's good. It is a striking looking wheel no doubt. Battery pack replacements are a little pricey since they are encased in laptop-like power packs. You do get that Ninebot reliability. For the price it's a good basic wheel and lighter than the One E+. Other offerings in the 14" arena are the InMotion V5F+, KS14, MCM4, but I think prices for those are a bit higher. Maybe the MCM4 is closer, but some people (Duf) reported some ride issues with them. @houseofjob I believe had one for a while, but he didn't seem that impressed with it.
  12. Glad to hear that you got it working.
  13. So how did you end up calibrating it and getting it to work?
  14. That's right! This is what I tell all my first dates! Strange though why there seem to be no second dates.
  15. It would be cool to see a CVT system like this in a EUC, but I think it would be too complicated and expensive to incorporate. They do seem to have them in bicycles. http://www.fallbrooktech.com/nuvinci-technology
  16. Sounds like the tire thing is pretty common. They should move their shell mounting points down a few millimetres.
  17. @Linnea Lin Gotway @Jane Mo Is there a proper sequence for connecting the batteries? I wish @Rehab1 could comment as this very thing happened to him, but he was able to reconnect successfully later on. He did get pretty bad burns though. I don't know if he connected all the cables first to the control board (power, hall, motor, etc, battery lead) before connecting one pack then the other? Is there a mandatory sequence? I see the theories that have been posted, but I wonder there is something more going on. Could it be that people are connecting battery packs together first before connecing to the main board? In Speedyfeet's teardown video he unfortunately skips some of the reconnecting process. I was watching specifically to see what he did but was disappointed there. Could it be somehow BMS related where one triggers an overload detection, cuts voltage output while the other pack maintains voltage and boom the difference results in the explosion? I don't see how connecting two battery packs of fairly equal voltage should spark that much. Is there an extra wire coming from the packs? What is that wire for? Balancing voltages? It would be nice to know for the record or else other people will end up getting hurt and damaging their wheels. Can Gotway post up a video for reference? BTW : Sorry to hear this happened to you TremF. I can imagine how frustrating it can be. Hang in there - I'm sure things will get sorted out. They really should provide warnings or a sheet of detailed instructions as this sort of thing is really hazardous just judging by Rehab1's photos of his experience. It doesn't take much to give a video link, a website page of instructions, a photocopied sheet of step by steps? Com'on guys, even generic printer toner refill companies provide paper instructions and a website how to video. This really shouldn't be rocket science. If there is risk for injury if not done correctly they should declare an important read me first sheet. Sorry for the rant, can you tell I'm upset?
  18. You mentioned the wheel performs differently riding it backwards than forwards. Have you tried flipping the outer hub in the other direction? Maybe the way the stator teeth and outer rim magnets are aligned it works better when set up in a certain direction due to variance in the angle and airgap? Just putting out random ideas here. I believe that you had mentioned that you forgot the orientation at one point? Maybe use a Sharpie marker to mark Face A to Face A on the rim. Label wires with one line, two lines, three lines, etc for reference. Did you label the motor covers and their screw holes? I don't know how symmetrical they are, but did you use shims to even out the airgap before reinstalling the first motor cover? Maybe try remounting the covers and ensure the airgaps are even. Perhaps the outer hub is installed slightly skewed so the air gap on one side is larger than the other resulting in uneven magnetic forces. How precision fit are the screw holes on the motor covers?
  19. Do you have some spares? Maybe some are defective or vary in specification. Esaj mentioned how he got a bunch of low priced components from AliExpress, and how some might be counterfeit, out of tolerance or factory rejects. Maybe one or more are defective? Also it looks like you skipped insulating the legs on the hall sensors whereas the OEM ones had yellow sleeves. Maybe there is an intermittant short somewhere? It's also interesting to note the KingSong motor has little green PCB boards that act as a junction to solder to rather than soldering directly to the little sensor legs.
  20. Just curious - did you change out all three hall sensors or just the one broken one? I don't know if maybe mixing and matching different hall sensors might be an issue? Maybe they vary a little in sensitivity or trigger timing so that could be throwing the synchronization off?
  21. That's a bit disappointing. Does it have a mechanical press in power switch? I think @Chris Westland modifed his IPS Zero with a silicon cover for his power button IIRC. I don't know why makers design the wheels with such tight tire tolerances. Maybe there is some variation in the tread depth from tire suppliers so the specifications they provide are inaccurate leading to trouble down the design line. It sounds like maybe a return might be the best choice as there seems to be a few negatives from the get go. Maybe someone with first hand experience can comment further as to the normal range and characteristics of this wheel.
  22. Five year old? Holy cow that's a small rider. I'm amazed... Get some videos up! I think she might be the youngest I've ever heard of riding an EUC. Next thing you know people will be strapping babies on these things! Madness I tell you, madness!
  23. How bad is the level currently? Can you ride the wheel as is? When you turn it on, does it self-balance in the forwards and backwards direction? Or does it beep an error constantly? You haven't described things completely so there may be some missing information. Does it function normally, but the shell/pedals are not level? According to this page, the board comes in vertical or horizontal orientations. Are you sure you have the vertical version? https://detail.1688.com/offer/43245285971.html With my hoverboards, a long press of the power button activates the calibration routine. Maybe with this version of board they have incorporated that functionality into the power switch? Maybe try placing it on your calibration rig with the wheel allowed to spin freely and try long pressing the power button.
  24. Thanks Vik's!
  25. So would you say that the GT16 is a reliable wheel ready for prime time? I wonder what caused the reported cutouts that the French dealers were mentioning. Does anyone know what became of that? Have you attached a trolley handle to it yet? Maybe trolleying it while powered up would help you transport it over some rough spots rather than carrying. What's your average cruising speed? Have you taken it up to over 40 KPH yet? I really like the GT16, and I'm dying to upgrade so I'm very curious about it.