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Everything posted by Scatcat

  1. Well, if you have 2kW in you motor, accelerating fast is not really a problem , and it is so much fun.
  2. Nothing wrong at all. It's just that the bicycle road where I commute, has these totally bonkers bicyclists that go on 18-gear bicycles with tires the width of my pinkie. It is by no means uncommon for those spandex-phantoms to do 25 mph+ without any other protection than a flimsy aerodynamic helmet and their skin-tight sausage casing that leaves far too little to the imagination... I probably COULD keep up with them or even overtake most of them, but I still value my life and I prefer to let the bones in my body stay unbroken, my brain unscrambled and my skin without the need of transplanted grafts. In short I tend to keep my speed below 22mph-ish.
  3. Where did you buy it?
  4. My first guess would be a bad cell. My second guess would be a faulty charger. Basically you should be able to test this by disconnecting the battery packs on one side and charging the other. You should get full voltage just from one side, but with half the Wh. If the problem stops, the disconnected cells are bad. You can then switch around and charge the other side to see if it goes up to full voltage. There is a very clear risk in doing this, since if there is a problem on one side, and the other side charges fully, you'll have a Voltage mismatch that could cause a rather brutal spark when you try connecting all the packs. I can't vouch for the GT control board's capability to handle that mismatch without mishap, but I would not risk it personally. OTOH if you have dead cells on one side, you want to change those packs ASAP anyway, running around with failed cells, not even knowing why they failed, sounds rather foolhardy to me. And the peculiar number of missing volts could mean the board is actually handling the difference as is. If you have dead cells, you really want to know you do, and you really want to fix it. If I'm saying anything wrong here, anyone is welcome to correct me.
  5. Sane you say? I sometimes wonder if I still have a working brain or have suddenly acquired a junkie dependence on adrenaline?
  6. I can TOTALLY relate to that...
  7. Well this is the incline I was talking about - looking downwards: Seeing it like this, it doesn't look that intimidating But it is pretty steep and rather longish, wouldn't want to pop a FET.
  8. With my helmet mirror, I find my situational awareness goes up. With a helmet on, and the wind noise, it is far to easy to miss a reasonably silent car, or bicycle coming up behind you. But since the mirror is in the peripheral vision all the time, I kind of get a feeling I'm not alone even when not looking directly in it. And doing a fast check takes but a few moments, and minimal movement of the head just to cover all the dead angles. The hardest part for me, was learning how much the mirror skews the perspective, and how far away/close things really are. My mirror are rather convex, so things are really quite a lot closer than they look in the mirror - much more so than your typical rear-view mirror in a car...
  9. That "crawl up the hill" thingie... Isn't it less than ideal to go slow uphill? When I look at amp-draw in my app, it seems to spike if I crawl uphill, but stay more reasonable if I just continue as if I was on flat ground. As the incline starts, I will of course slow down a bit naturally, but I don't slow down more than that on purpose. Neither do I try to push it to keep the speed up, at least not more than I would to accelerate moderately on flat ground. If I come in too slow, I feel I have a tendency to push it harder, maybe that has something to do with the amp-draw? While coming in at normal speed, it just seems effortless. Well, except for one hill in the woods here, which is somewhere around 35-40°, that is NOT an effortless uphill ride, whatever speed I start out with...
  10. I don't think the weight of the EUC in itself is a problem at all really. Even a monster weighs no more than 35-40% of most riders riding it. Given we have no suspension except our knees, the diameter of the shaft and the quality of the steel in it are crucial variables for reliability. Both instantaneously being able to take the shock of a drop with a heavy rider on, but also to avoid fatigue even if the first fifty drops are fine. I have been going on about the axle dimensions, and even caught some flak about it since electronic reliability is a higher priority. But for me the two things are intertwined. Larger dimensions of the axle allows thicker gauge cables and so less resistance and heat. If you can't get it from Ian, then ask Yi Chen from Rockwheel Store if he can get you the motor, he has access to spares for all the big Chinese brands. You can find him on FB or ask directly on AliExpress (Sorry for the obvious plug, but he's been a total gem in my case - my new motor, board and extra hall-sensors for the old motor are in speed DHL shipping ATM).
  11. That ninebot behaves a bit like my GT16, but without the tremors. Mine shot off, hit my bicycle, climbed a meter up in the air and then fell to the ground and turned off. Scary as hell. I'm changing the board. And since I had my motor problems, I'm changing the motor too. The old motor will be kept as a spare, and I got new hall sensors to eliminate the possibility that those are part of the problem. I want to give a shoutout to Yi Chen on Rockwheel Store, that has been a total gem in this, even though he wasn't the original seller.
  12. It's hardest the first few times, until you get the routine down. Then it's not much harder than any other EUC. Gotway is simpler in one way, since the board is in the same compartment as one of the battery packs. But try to get to the LED assembly in a Gotway, and it becomes more complicated.
  13. Well, there are three places where the failure may be. 1) The connector in the cable compartment. To access it you need to remove the right side plexiglass I'm afraid. The connectors for the light are there. There are two small contacts leading to the back of the GT16, one is red, that is to the charging port, the other is white, and that is the light. The most probable cause is simply a disconnected cable, but it may be a broken crimping. If so you have the interesting options of getting a spare male/female pin, or breaking out the soldering iron and make do. To remove the plexi, the only alternative I've found is using something sharp, like a model knife. The glass is VERY easy to crack, but don't despair, some weave tape and glue can fix a simple crack. I used black duct-tape to put it back, mostly to make sure I didn't create another way in for moisture. It worked superbly. 2) A loose connector or cable on the board. You need to disconnect battery, then all the cables in both cable compartments, then unscrew the controller-box with its eight screws. Then very carefully remove the lid, the eight plastic locks are pretty easy to break. Some are easier than others, try and be careful. When the lid is off, you can inspect the cables sitting at the opposite end from the MOSFETs and see if any connector is loose or any cable doesn't sit well in its connector. 3) If worst comes to worst, the fault may be in the LED-assembly. Like in the previous, you need to dismount all cables and remove the controller box. Then you need to unscrew the last screws to the motor and loosen the screws keeping the two halves of the shell together. Get the wheel out, then unscrew the two halves of the shell altogether. Then you can access the LED/charging-port assembly. This is probably easier to do without breaking anything than alternative 2, but also the most complete dismantlement of the EUC So the easiest parts to break are the plexis and the locks for the controller box lid. The former is less of a problem than the latter. But if you break one of the locks, some loc-tite or epoxy can save the day. Also, there was some rubbery sealant putty of some kind or the other between lid and cooling plate on mine. When I get my spares, I plan to find some non-stick sealant to replace it with.
  14. Some form of pocket, like the ones available for cellphones would be perfect.
  15. I've worn my watch under the flexmeters, but I do NOT recommend it. I was in a hurry, forgot to take the watch off and couldn't be bothered, but I think it will worsen the protection. Plus it is pretty uncomfortable.
  16. Well I'm 50 and hope my youth keeps as well as yours the next decade.
  17. Once you go mirror, it's hard to go back. I have one too, not exactly like yours, but very much like it.
  18. @陈小杰 Maybe you know what's going on. After going over a bump today the wheel started behaving strangely. It vibrated/oscillated violently and didn't stop until I physically grabbed it and held it still. I'm glad I wasn't going very fast, because I was able to stop in a controlled manner. I've opened the sides to make sure there are no loose cables, and everything seems in order. This is what it looks like: I really hope there is an answer to this one. Any ideas and help would be appreciated.
  19. But the idea of a rear view mirror, speed meter and so on in google glass is actually not that stupid!
  20. I may actually be wrong. I thought I read that it was 30Q, but it wouldn't be the first time my brain comes to premature conclusions...
  21. And minus one for not bothering to use a bit of compressed air before screwing them in
  22. I'm not sure why people regard Rockwheel as shadier than others. If anything, they seem more interested in feedback and fixing things than most. My GT16 is almost of the first, first generation, except for the test batches. And if it wasn't for the unlikeliest of damage, I'd probably still be riding around happily. Yes it had some details that was a bit happy-go-lucky, but not to a point where I felt worried, or robbed. I have NEVER felt unsafe on my GT16 until the gyro gave up, and even then it didn't give up all at once, but the problem developed over a few days. The metal in the wheel must be regarded as something of a fluke, even with washers that thin nothing bad should happen in 99.99999999% of the motors. Even as that happened, it wasn't instant failure. I've been going uphill at level-ground speeds, even accelerating like crazy, without ever being worried. I have NEVER heard the wheel struggle with delivering enough power. I have never lacked the torque to stop on a dime, or start like a slingshot. They can do better, but I can't say I regret getting one, even with the trouble I'm in currently.
  23. Yeah, the mud flap/fender is a joke. I don't know if it's better in V2, but it has to be a lot better to even be passable. Mine is laying on a shelf replaced with a make-my-own design. At least mine has enough clearance and actually stops water and mud.
  24. And one thing that I really love about the GT16 is that the motor seems VERY efficient. My first suspicion that all wasn't well with my wheel, was that it seemed to use more battery than before. I had gotten used to swooshing the 7-8 miles to work at 18-20 mph using <15% of the charge, then I started using ~20% for the same distance, and wondered if I had mishandled the batteries or something. But having the wheel full of metal flakes from a washer kind of explains the lessening efficiency, doesn't it?
  25. They have a total of 80 Samsung INR 18650 30Q. So in reality it's more like 1008 Wh, at least if you use conservative numbers. But it should be able to deliver >5000W continuously without even getting warm.