Full Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

504 Excellent

About Scatcat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/04/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
  • Interests
    Computers, Sci-fi reading, EUC, Vaping
  1. But the idea of a rear view mirror, speed meter and so on in google glass is actually not that stupid!
  2. I may actually be wrong. I thought I read that it was 30Q, but it wouldn't be the first time my brain comes to premature conclusions...
  3. And minus one for not bothering to use a bit of compressed air before screwing them in
  4. I'm not sure why people regard Rockwheel as shadier than others. If anything, they seem more interested in feedback and fixing things than most. My GT16 is almost of the first, first generation, except for the test batches. And if it wasn't for the unlikeliest of damage, I'd probably still be riding around happily. Yes it had some details that was a bit happy-go-lucky, but not to a point where I felt worried, or robbed. I have NEVER felt unsafe on my GT16 until the gyro gave up, and even then it didn't give up all at once, but the problem developed over a few days. The metal in the wheel must be regarded as something of a fluke, even with washers that thin nothing bad should happen in 99.99999999% of the motors. Even as that happened, it wasn't instant failure. I've been going uphill at level-ground speeds, even accelerating like crazy, without ever being worried. I have NEVER heard the wheel struggle with delivering enough power. I have never lacked the torque to stop on a dime, or start like a slingshot. They can do better, but I can't say I regret getting one, even with the trouble I'm in currently.
  5. Yeah, the mud flap/fender is a joke. I don't know if it's better in V2, but it has to be a lot better to even be passable. Mine is laying on a shelf replaced with a make-my-own design. At least mine has enough clearance and actually stops water and mud.
  6. And one thing that I really love about the GT16 is that the motor seems VERY efficient. My first suspicion that all wasn't well with my wheel, was that it seemed to use more battery than before. I had gotten used to swooshing the 7-8 miles to work at 18-20 mph using <15% of the charge, then I started using ~20% for the same distance, and wondered if I had mishandled the batteries or something. But having the wheel full of metal flakes from a washer kind of explains the lessening efficiency, doesn't it?
  7. They have a total of 80 Samsung INR 18650 30Q. So in reality it's more like 1008 Wh, at least if you use conservative numbers. But it should be able to deliver >5000W continuously without even getting warm.
  8. The first picture with a blue and a white GT16. Hover over it and you'll see the note of the capacity.
  9. Think about these. Then imagine them with 18"/2.5" tyres. The extra width used to allow slightly longer and wider pedals, wider pads, and internally four 22x packs of 20700 batteries of high capacity. Then imagine the wheel using that extra heft to fit wider magnets and stator with even more torque and power. Their algoritms are already very good, with very fine control. The hardest setting is probably too hard for some, but the middle setting is rather smooth. The compact weight placement and low centre of gravity (batteries sits low in the case) makes them super-controllable. I can feel drool running in the corner of my mouth just by the fantasy. --- The black one looks like a muscle-car-style color, the orange one like a Lamborghini, the blue one looks like it's gone through a "pimp my ride" show...
  10. I think that if they want me to be a drooling slave, what they should do is a 18"/2.5" variant with 2500W, 92V and 1600Wh They could take the opportunity to redesign a few details to make it just a bit sturdier and water-proof, and I would eat oatmeal for a year to get my hands on one.
  11. The 1036Wh in blue almost had me emptying my bank account! That is one-sexy-wheel.
  12. The prices for me was a bit of a special case since both @陈小杰 (Xiao-Jie Chen) and Yi Chen had gotten interested in the case. I paid much less than I would have, thanks to their kindness and care. But normally a new motor would be $250, a new controller $280 and new batteries would be $588. Good to know though is that Yi Chen of Rockwheel Store normally leaves an informal warranty for a year, 6 months for batteries. You'd have to send back the parts, but in some cases a video demonstrating the fault can be enough. Much of that depends on what part and wether they want the part for testing and control. Much of my woes about cables and connectors seem to be ironed out. The new connectors look way better than the old, but I will follow up on that when I get the parts. The early criticism was burnt out controllers after just a hundred kilometers or so, I don't know what that was all about. My problem seem to be the gyro, but temperatures in the controller have been consistently low or even remarkably low. If you go slow uphill for a stretch, it may rise as high as 70°C, but as long as you have some speed the cooling system is remarkable. Going at a slight elevation at 15mph I never topped 40°C on flat ground and 20mph I never topped 36°C. At times I think the cables heated up some, but I never made any persistent hill climbing like what got @Marty Backe's ACM fried, so I don't know how bad that would become. Physically there i a choke-point for the cables on each side of the board leading down to the battery compartment, and of course the choke-point of the cables into the motor. I don't think that is a big problem as long as you don't go crawling uphill for very long, since the choke-points are physically inside the heat-sink. So in reliability most problems actually lies in the shell design. Part of it are that it could be thicker in places, part of it are tight tolerances in the heat-sink, part of it are screws that could be more substantial - but the screws for connecting motor and shell are very good. Those choke-points I mentioned are overall unnecessary, there are a few simple choices that could have been made to move the water-proofing from "OK in rain" to "OK to use your garden hose". The board could have been laquered to avoid problems with condensation. And simple silicon-liners in the covers and around the board housing, would basically have made it more or less waterproof. I think it would be relatively easy to fix yourself if you're willing to open it up and carefully use some sealant in the relevant places. The battery placement helps, since they're basically water-tight to above the axle. Concerning serviceability, the covers are very easy to open up, while the board is rather more inaccessible. The connection between board-cover and heat-sink is a point that requires real care, as it is far to easy to break something. Getting the wheel out to fix punctures is somewhat of a pain, as it requires removing the whole board and heat-sink assembly with all the cables and then loosening the screws in the shell. When you actually get it to loosen up, it is simple to do the rest. The method of pedal assembly is very good, and not very likely to loosen by vibration. As I understand it, it is reminiscent of the KS-solution with a top and bottom part of the assembly connected by two fat and long bolts that force the connection tight. So what is the conclusion? Well, if you're willing to learn how to do the work yourself, it's a wheel as good as any. But servicing has a slightly higher learning curve than for example GWs wheels. Spares (any spares) can be had through Rockwheel Store, just ask Yi Chen about what you need if you don't find it in the inventory. I think I was a bit unlucky with my motor breaking down, and I can't escape the suspicion that the interference of loose metal in the wheel somehow affected the board and made the gyro go crazy. I think it's a fluke though, and not a fault you should expect to happen to many wheels. In fact Yi Chen said that through the years he's managed Rockwheel Store, this was a first.
  13. At last, all things are in the pipe, and I'll get them in a couple of weeks. On the positive side I'll be upgraded to version 2 of the board and motor. Better wiring, better connectors and so on. Now, how to survive two weeks without my machine? It's almost enough to make me part with the money for an extra.
  14. I wouldn't trust any helmet that has suffered a real impact. Not the POC, nor a MC-helmet. Not when my brain is the thing protected, I kind of like it.
  15. Well, the priorities becomes different, but I won't say I'm not happy with the way it is. However, I wonder how this will turn out. I can't be without a wheel for much longer, I'm freaking out and it's just been four days now.