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About Scatcat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/04/1966

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  • Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
  • Interests
    Computers, Sci-fi reading, EUC, Vaping
  1. Rubber thickness?

    I can already say that the Schwalbe Mad Mike tyres, are a lot better than the Kenda clones. The geometry just seems smoother and feels a lot better when riding. So far they hold up to the studs, but the studs stick out a bit too much, which makes the EUC a bit more twitchy than normally. I expect delivery of the Schwalbe studs on monday, and as soon as I get the time I'll swap. I expect them to be more flush with the tyre, and to compensate I'll probably use more than the 24 studs I use now. That should give enough grip and get the twitchiness down to a more comfortable level.
  2. If I can get one with at least 14" wheels, ball bearings, air-horn and cattle prods sticking out, I might consider it...
  3. Rubber thickness?

    Would be good for shits and giggles though... But outright scary at speed if you hit some bump unevenly...
  4. That is very rough, and the reason I never ride without my wrist guards. The wrists are complex and very easy to break. I really hope you get better ASAP. And @Smoother we have socialised medicine, but the money paid for sick-leave never reach 100%. The basic level is 80% and there is a cap at about £90 I lose close to £60 a day whenever I need to call in sick. Also the first sick-day there is no money for sick-leave at all, that is a "reform" they introduced about 20 years ago to curb its-a-nice-day-lets-call-in-sick sickness. The surgeries, casts and so on cost zero (well not zero, but a nominal fee of about £15), but if you can't work normally the cost will tally up anyways.
  5. Rubber thickness?

    305mm is the rim yes. And given the space in a EUC I doubt I could fit anything wider than 2.25", not for the width, but for the profile height. Not without taking the pedal arms to a machine shop and shortening them half an inch to get the wheel lower in the shell.
  6. A good starter wheel?

    I routinely carry the GT16 up a couple of flights without even taking off the wrist guards. 17kgs isn't that much of a bother, and you can always switch hands once in a while. But off course you can go for a lighter wheel, as long as you don't buy an airwheel, firewheel or somesuch outdated and super-short range wheels.
  7. Rubber thickness?

    I've bought Schwalbe studs, they'll arrive in a few days. I will compare how easy they are to mount and how they affect the tyre... I think they might be the solution to my problem.
  8. A good starter wheel?

    I have to agree, don't go for a "cheap" wheel, it will only be money thrown into Øresund... I have an Inmotion V3C that have been standing unused for close to a year, I mean to sell it, but haven't gotten around to it for whatever reason. That was money thrown away, even though it's not a "cheapo" wheel. As soon as I got my GT16, the older wheel was forgotten. The advice here to get a KS16S or a Tesla, especially if you can find one second hand, should be well taken. Sure, you'll have to muscle 17-18 kilos of EUC up the stairs, but believe me it's worth it. Get a strap to help distribute the weight better, and it should be no problem - unless you weigh 60 kilos dripping wet... The KS16S is probably the low maintenance, safe bet. The Tesla is very fast, but Gotway's wheels often need more tinkering. Also get a good helmet and good wrist-guards. And at least when you start, use knee-pads and elbow guards too. Falling from a EUC is often a very fast affair, and catching yourself on your knee, elbow or wrist may be a very painful experience. When you feel more relaxed in your skills, you may opt to run with less protection (I wouldn't recommend it), but don't ruin your entrance into a fun hobby by injuring yourself.
  9. Rubber thickness?

    Someone has had all too much fun with PS How the F would you ride that one?
  10. Actually I almost managed to run out of it. Had I not been halfway through the turn I might have succeeded. But running diagonally while starting with your weight off center isn’t exactly easy............
  11. Rubber thickness?

    I’ve thought about adding a layer of epoxy on the inside. Not sure if it would do the trick though.
  12. Rubber thickness?

    The problem with 2.125” is that it is a bicycle size. The tyre you linked to is a 90/100 which means 3.54” width. While I would love to have such a tyre, I’d have rebuild the whole EUC to fit it. I.e grind down half an inch on the pedal arms, and fit some form of shim between the halves of the shell. A shim that would still allow the control box on top of it. It would be almost as easy to build your own shell... Looking at MC-tyres that might fit, effectively takes away all but a few choices of "moped"-tyres. They’re probably about as thick as the mad mikes. There are reasons why I hope the trend goes to slightly wider tyres in future generations of EUC.
  13. It is like a bloody ejection seat of an airplane
  14. Rubber thickness?

    So, the mad mikes I bought are indeed a bit thicker than the Kenda snow tire. The geometry also seem to be a bit smoother, which will probably make them easier to ride on hard ground. They are obviously heavier and takes a lot more psi. But they could still be a millimeter or two thicker. In the pic below I've added studs. They're as deep as I dare, since I screwed them in to the point where I can just start to feel them through the inner wall, but before they start to bulge the weave. That way the puncture proofing should be enough to keep them out of the tube. I'm still not entirely comfortable: the studs should be a bit deeper in, and there should be a mm more of rubber between the inner wall and stud. But it should work.
  15. Well, new knee-pads cost me $25, so that was the total cost of the crash. Except for a swelling in the thigh and sore muscles, but that is almost OK by now.