Christoph Zens

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Everything posted by Christoph Zens

  1. Let me try this one: There are simple pressure sensors on each pedal (I'm thinking about a piezoelectric type here). It would be easy to detect the difference between a connected and working sensor not sensing any pressure, and a broken one (cable broken for example). Now the condition for auto-emergency-brake (like a train with an unresponsive driver) could be defined like this: Both sensors are working and report no/idle pressure for at least 5 seconds while the wheel moved at least 20 meters with constant ground contact. Sudden speed increase without the proper amount of power draw (free spinning wheel during air time) doesn't count towards the 20m limit and also resets the 5 second timer. Whatever the mechanism, it must be possible to turn it off via the app, I think. But it would be OK for me if the wheel is no longer street legal while the runaway protection is off, like it's not legal to drive a car without a fastened seat belt.
  2. Unfortunately that's not going to help. A redundant board needs a second motor to drive, and since we only want one wheel, we would need to switch from the current direct-drive system to something where two motors are mechanically coupled and can be decoupled individually from driving the outer rim of our one and only wheel. Otherwise a failing MOSFET on one board will short out one of the motors and lock up the rim anyways, so even a separate line of actuator coils driven by a separate controller would not help. This is getting far too complicated to envision for anything released within the next 10 years (famous last words)...
  3. That's true and it is the same here in Austria. But I still see a difference why this would make sense: Imagine a bicyclist coming down a hill at 40+ kph and his one and only brake fails. Now he can't stop and collides with somebody else. But he does this while still sitting on his bicycle trying to stop, so there is probably 100kg coming down at high speed, which I assume would be dangerous. However, if the one and only control board of the EUC fails, the wheel either locks up or runs freely. In both cases, there is no way for the rider to stay on his wheel, so by the time the wheel hits someone else, if it even get's that far (not with a locked motor, probably), it's just the wheel.
  4. Looks are a matter of taste, but the pedals look comfy and big, both in width and length. Maybe they can now allow for longer pedals since they have that much horse power under the hood. 4kW is more than 5 PS. Reduce by the motor efficiency (BLDC motors should be pretty efficient) and there could be four horses pulling between your feet. Imagine to tell this some brave knight in the middle ages (you know, in a few hundred years, people will put a disc with the strength of 4 horses between their legs and cruise around on it)...
  5. Interesting! Thank's for the background info. Maybe we should be pro-active and start a thread discussing what "redundancy" for an EUC really means, where it would help, and how it could be done. This may turn up some new points of view from other people and help in arguing why this is nonsense or why we should really push EUC companies to do it. I see that this phrase is used quite often in the forum but it is very diffuse. No one really has a picture of what it actually is or would be. Certainly much more than the Segway Z may have (back on topic, yeah). Many seem to dream of something that would be able to prevent their next faceplant, but I think what PLEV has in mind is that the vehicle must be stoppable by the rider under any circumstances. I guess they still think that a 17kg EUC which is not stoppable (rider fell off already, wheel continues to drive on its own for some distance), is as dangerous as a 1500kg car which is unstoppable because its brake suddenly died, running over and killing 10 people on the sidewalk... It's clear why cars and trucks need to have redundancy there, maybe even a heavy Segway, but an EUC? And what if the rider looses balance and falls off on his own? No redundancy whatsoever will prevent this, or stop the wheel afterwards. Although I had the idea of pressure sensors on the pedals, causing the wheel to stop when no rider is present. But talk about all those faceplants caused by firmware stopping the wheel because of non-working sensors, or software bugs.
  6. Yes. That's what I mean. Did you see the requirement for redundant power and control systems if there is no manual brake? Not a single current wheel and I predict also no future (single) wheel will be able to do this. As I understand this initiative, it was started by companies selling electric scooters and their only interest is to get their devices certified and street-legal so they can sell them more easily. I am not sure the EUC industry is represented in this working group at all, so no one will care about what makes sense in the context of our wheels. The self balancing thing is related to hover boards, I guess. There will be a lot of nonsense in this 'standard' and it may turn out to be of no use in helping us to get our devices accepted (in countries where they are basically illegal right now, like in Germany or Israel).
  7. We don't know what, if anything, PLEV will contain in the end, and it will certainly not be mandatory for any EU member to adopt it. So as of now, that's a pretty bold statement. My guess is that not a single EUC will be able to comply with whatever the electric scooter lobby tries to push into PLEV, so it may turn out to be pretty useless for us anyways.
  8. Also, prices for Li-Ion cells seem to be dropping significantly each year. This should allow for larger capacity wheels at the same price, I would hope. According to this graph, the 1000Wh (1kWh) capacity should have had a price tag of around $200 last year.
  9. That's probably true for most of the older wheels. However, the KS16S measures temperature right at the MOSFETs. The small black component RTH1 is an NTC (used to measure temperature). The other day, I was again wondering what the reasoning behind the fuses may be, and I came up with yet another explanation: Maybe KS thinks it's better to blow a fuse and let the wheel spin out freely (without any power supply), than to blow a MOSFET and have the wheel lock up instantly due to the short created by the blown FET. Depending on speed, it may be possible to run off a wheel that stops balancing but keeps rolling, but the rider will faceplant for sure if the wheel locks up, resulting in much more severe injuries.
  10. I wonder when they will care to release the firmware they are currently using to build new KS16S as an available upgrade to owners of older wheels, still running on 1.00. Can't be that hard, but there is nothing showing up in the app so far. Without the "Hello KingSong" message, my wheel would then just greet me with "Bluetooth is connected". Voice commands are turned off btw...
  11. Very interesting. Judging from the pictures, could this be a geared wheel? I also wonder if the motor power is rated or maximum power. The fat tire makes it less suited for sidewalks and crowded areas in general. Looks too much like a motorcycle and would scare people, I think. For off road use, perfect. Really interesting. They didn't just copy everyone else but came up with their own thing...
  12. Man setzt Kulturkreis mit Genpool gleich. Aber bitte jetzt keine ernsthafte Diskussion über ein scherzhaft gemeintes off-topic Kommentar...
  13. Man sieht, auch anno 1895 waren Personen die neumodische Fortbewegungsmittel benutzt haben in Deutschland suspekt und wurden verfolgt und bestraft. Mehr als 200 Jahre später das selbe Verhaltensmuster. Daraus kann man schließen, dass manche Verhaltensmuster in den Genen begründet liegen und höchstens per Durchmischung des Genpools via Kreuzung mit anderen Völkern verbessert werden können. Ich bin da mit gutem Beispiel vorangegangen und habe zwei Österreichisch/Japanische Kinder.
  14. Great tour! It's always a challenge to find a route which is rideable enough to bring the wheel and wild enough to be interesting (views and riding skills). The Austrian flag you saw painted on that rock wasn't a flag. It's just the marking for a certain hiking path. Red/White/Red is a commonly used marking, as is White/Blue/White. In areas with a lot of different paths leading to different destinations, you will see a lot of these markings in all kinds of colors. On hiking maps, they are shown as well, so you always know which color to follow.
  15. vehicle password

    Maybe you need to reset the bluetooth pairing code. Check out this video how to do it. You have to turn the unit on, lean it to the side until it starts beeping, hold the power button down, and release the power button after the 17th beep, returning the unit back to upright position. Best to watch the video though, it's confusing but I had problems like this after app upgrades a few times and resetting bluetooth always resolved them.
  16. Maybe the lean angle was too far off when calibration was started (app button pressed), and the wheel refused to even enter calibration mode in the first place. I always place the wheel upright first before starting calibration and never had any problems.
  17. Interesting, maybe this is already resolved in 1.02. My wheel still has firmware 1.00 and the app does not show any available upgrade, even though new wheels are shipped with 1.02 for quite a while now. I have no idea why they fail to provide 1.02 as an upgrade to older wheels. I guess this is such a small upgrade that they don't bother to release it just yet.
  18. I verified this on my wheel now and I think it doesn't change. The dead-band is definitely there even in the hard setting, and I don't really feel a difference in 'size'. It's somewhat annoying, I hope this will be improved it in a future firmware update. Now that I pay more attention, I can even feel it during normal riding, especially slow riding (< 6kph), and I wish it would go away
  19. Good point. I was comparing the NB1 fw 1.4.0 at setting 3 to the KS16S at riding mode (medium setting). That seems to be an invalid comparison. I will try again with the KS16S set to player mode (hardest setting). Maybe the dead-band goes away. I always assumed that such a dead-band must be an unwanted motor controller flaw, as softer riding modes should only decrease the sensitivity to balance errors. But as the sensitivity decreases, very small errors may turn out to result in no motor movement.
  20. That could really be the case, because I can't find the KS16S in white in any other shop. It doesn't look like white is an official color for the KS16S.
  21. Oh, that's for the KS14S, we were talking about the KS16S and I can confirm from riding that very wheel that it still goes 35kph below 50%.
  22. Great, thank you for the hint, I can really use this. It's always good to know what to expect when opening something new. Often times, you can't look inside how things work unless you got it apart, which is not easy if you don't know where to start... When I ordered mine, white was not an option (yet). Only black and silver were available. Later on, when I saw your pictures of the white unit, I checked back at 1RadWerkstatt and white was suddenly an option. Well, he has the white shells in stock, so I can get them pretty easily.
  23. Yes, I know. This was an off-topic comment, not related to E-Wheels in any way.
  24. Oh, that totally makes sense. And drawing less means we can get more juice out, that's true as well. The same applies for charging. I came across a site which claimed that fast charging (really fast, at 1C), can be slower overall when a full charge is required, than charging at say 0.5C. This is (apparently) because when charging at 1C, the cell ends up with much less charge when its voltage reaches 4.2V, so the following CV phase, where current is limited, takes much longer until the cut-off current is reached and the cell is 100% full. According to their figures, charging at 1C would require the CV phase to top off at least 20 to 30% remaining charge (slowly), whereas charging at 0.5C would lead to an almost full cell when reaching 4.2V, so the final top-off phase would be so short, that the overall time for a full charge would be less compared to a 1C charge. I did no verify this claim, but I found it interesting. In general, I think it's true that higher charging currents will lead to less capacity in the cell when it reaches its max. voltage. However, if the user needs a quick recharge from say 20% to 60%, a 1C charge would in fact be twice as fast as a 0.5C charge.
  25. Seeing this graph reminds me of something: Using the full capacity would require to discharge the cells down to 2.5V. Does KS really allow this? Whats the final cell voltage when KS reports 0% battery left? I was assuming it must be 3V, which would mean we get 2100mAh out of the 3500mAh cells. The reason I was assuming 3V: A Li-ion cell which is discharged below 3V has to be charged back to 3V using a pre-charge phase, which is usually rated 0.1C (350mA in this case). On a 4p pack like the KS16S, that would be a maximum charging current of 1.4A until cell voltage reaches 3V, but the standard charger delivers 2A, let alone people using 4A or even 8A chargers. So either they stop before the cell voltage drops below 3V, or they stick with a 2A charger on purpose, since it is almost operating at pre-charge level anyways (500mA instead of 350mA is probably still OK), or their chargers implement the pre-charge phase correctly. Any 4A or 8A charger would have to implement pre-charging correctly, otherwise the cells may be damaged. Anyone who could shed some light on this? If the cells are really discharged below 3V, I would not use any charger > 2A unless I know it can do a proper pre-charge.