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Christoph Zens

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About Christoph Zens

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/18/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vienna, Austria
  1. KingSong app bricks wheel firmware

    The wheel is up and running again. There were two (!) updates of the app coming in yesterday. The first one did nothing for me, but the second one I received in the evening finally found the wheel and managed to re-install the firmware, so it looks like there was a bug in the app I had used, and KS fixed it in their software. What I also learned from this episode: KS wheels seem to have a basic built-in system which allows the app to find the wheel and install firmware on it, even if no working firmware is currently available on the device. Some kind of a fallback system to boot when normal operation is not possible. The confusing thing is that this fallback system says "Bluetooth is OFF" when it starts. However, the wheel is still accessible for the app via bluetooth. The message is probably related to the media function only (BT speaker).
  2. KingSong app bricks wheel firmware

    When I started the (new) KS app this morning it managed to kill the firmware of my wheel such that it doesn't start anymore (at least not the way it should). What happened? Opened the app (Android version) Selected "device" Got a message about connection problems Selected "More" Got a dialog box stating that I have to upgrade the wheel firmware before I can use it, with the two options to cancel or upgrade I was thinking, oh, finally they published a new firmware, and hit "Upgrade" The wheel shut down (so there WAS actually a bluetooth connection) All lights OFF, the wheel said: "Bluetooth is OFF" and engaged some kind of brake (the wheel can be turned, but it turns much harder than usual) The app remained on a firmware upgrade screen, stating it would upgrade the wheel firmware from 1.00 to 1.02 This was of course nonsense, because the wheel was already running 1.02 and it was shut down by the app, bluetooth OFF, no more connection between app and wheel, and no real firmware upgrade running on the wheel. I know how an upgrade looks like, since I upgraded from 1.00 to 1.02 when it came out. The app downloads the firmware image, shows progress on a circle (takes a loooong time), the wheel is not powered down but instead also shows progress on its side LEDs. I let it sit like that for half an hour or more, then tried to foce a restart by pressing the power button for a long time. The wheel firmware was obviously stuck, so this was the only option to try. Well, after holding down the power button for a few seconds, the wheel started to beeeep until I let go of the button. The wheel brake was released and the wheel could be turned normally again. Now when I power it up, it says "Hello Kingsong" followed by "Bluetooth is OFF", but no side LEDs, and it activates the wheel brake again. Same when I press the Bluetooth button instead. Power down needs the long press. So, the wheel firmware was bricked by the app in one instant by some kind of stupid software bug / design flaw. Anybody any suggestions? Maybe disconnect and reconnect the battery, but I would call my dealer fist, before I open the wheel (it's still "original"). Here is the screenshot of the dialog, where you should not press "Upgrade":
  3. THE VIDEO THREAD!

    That's true. I think the most important gear for the early phase are motorcycle boots to protect your ankles. When I had to step off the wheel, I often did so in forward direction. Since the wheel usually didn't tip over immediately, it would catch up and hit me from behind. I found high boots very helpful in these situations. Even at low speed, those pedals can hit you pretty hard.
  4. Gotway Tesla vs KS16S?

    When I got my KS16S, I did some experiments pushing the wheel forward against a wall (standing on the wheel, hands on the wall). No problems. Some unusual noise from the motor, similar to grinding, which was probably a result of the over-current protection cutting power. I don't even understand why a motor driver would blow the driver FETs when the motor is stuck for some reason. Normal power MOSFET driver chips always have over-current protection built-in. I may give an example of a driver which would be suitable for use in an EUC: Up to 8A gate current, allowing for typical motor current up to 450A. https://gate-driver.power.com/sites/default/files/product-docs/scale-idriver_family_datasheet.pdf
  5. Personal Light Electric Vehicle regulations (PLEV)

    Stupid regulation is bad. It doesn't make any sense to request that EUCs must not be able to go faster than 20 or 25 km/h. It makes sense to regulate maximum speed on bike lane, sidewalk, and road, but not maximum speed of the vehicle itself. By that logic, any car going faster than 130 km/h would have to be banned in Austria. Still, I can buy a car that does 220 km/h and it's perfectly legal to drive it through town at 30 or 50 km/h. Why would that not apply to EUCs? Europe is obsessed with over-regulating any aspect of life, to the point where people forgot how to make decisions on their own and take responsibility for what they decided to do. We are all like big babies, being taken care of by our governments.
  6. KS16S head light problem

    By this logic, you would drive your car with high beam all the time. The more light in the face of oncoming drivers, the better. They don't see where they're going anymore? Don't care. I agree that the main purpose should be to be seen by others. Unfortunately, for this use case the head light turns on much too late. On my KS16S, the head light turns on about the same time the street lighting turns on (a little later than that, actually). This is much too late. So, for the intended purpose, auto-mode can't be used. When it does turn on eventually, it blindfolds others to the point where they don't see anything except a big glare. Joggers sometimes tell me, "this is way too bright" when passing by. For people in cars, it's even worse. To actually illuminate the path, even with a proper reflector, you have to go on a flat surface. Since the wheel always stays level, and the current head light designs lack any kind of auto-adjustment, going down a hill has your light beam illuminate the air in front of you but not the path. Going uphill, it points down on the first few meters in front of you. Not really usable in either case. On the NB1, I attached a headlight to the handle, which I could move up and down a bit, so I could adjust the light beam for longer down hill or up hill sections, but the integrated fixed light is just useless in such situations.
  7. KS16S head light problem

    If I ever find time to work on this, I will let you guys know.
  8. THE VIDEO THREAD!

    Very nice. I lived near Sausalito for two years (Mill Valley area). I could ride a Harley all year round. Sometimes went up on Mount Tam during lunch break (worked in Sausalito). It would be an interesting ride on an EUC as well. Great view from up there, on the "Ridgecrest Blvd". Back in Europe for many years now, we currently have like 6 Celsius during the day.
  9. KS16S head light problem

    I think that could be true, unfortunately. I also thought it may be possible to change the reflector, either as a whole or its position inside the headlight assembly, to improve things a bit. EUCs still seem to be "work in progress". Designs are just not finished yet. Maybe in 2-3 years from now...
  10. KS-16S Small Button Green Ring-Light Purpose?

    This button and the green light confuses me as well. Especially when main power is on. Then the head light mode can be changed by a short press of the power button, or the small BT button...
  11. WheelLog Android App

    Thanks, that works!
  12. WheelLog Android App

    Thank you guys, that clears things up. What had me confused was the decimal point. My phone is set to German locale, so the dot means 1000 (grouping character) and a comma (,) is used as the decimal separator. Since apps normally adhere to the current locale when formatting numbers, even if their UI is English only, I was reading "4394km distance" which didn't make any sense. Actually, it means "4 point something" km, which makes sense for my ride from home to work. However, I could not find a config tab in the latest version (installed from one of the most recent posts here in this thread). But I remember to have seen it in an older version.
  13. WheelLog Android App

    Quick question : I see garbage values for Distance, Wheel Distance, and User Distance. I don't really know what these should be, but I think the values are not correct. I tried to find a way to reset these values, but I can't find anything.
  14. CE marking

    The KS16S seems to sport the normal CE logo.
  15. KS16S head light problem

    So, after finding out that the tail light doesn't turn on when the manual switch is used, I now have an additional issue with the head light. There is no suitable reflector installed in the head light to distribute the light to where it's supposed to go. The thing just creates a symmetrical light cone (see image). The fact that this wastes a lot of the available light is one thing, but the real problem is, that it creates extreme glare for traffic (or pedestrians, which made me aware of this issue) coming the opposite way. I will have to tape the top half of the head light. The way it is right now, it's a hazard. Like driving with high beam all the time. The NB1 did not have any integrated lights, so I put on LED lights used for bicycles. This worked quite well, and due to the correct reflector inside the head light, there was plenty of light on the road and not in the face of oncoming people. Maybe I need to go back to this setup and forget about the broken lighting system of the KS16S? @Flora Yuan, can you forward this to engineering? The way the lights are right now is a security hazard. It needs to be fixed. Preferably the corrected headlight assembly could be bought as a replacement part to upgrade older wheels. I would buy one!
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