Christoph Zens

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About Christoph Zens

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  • Birthday 02/18/1973

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    Vienna, Austria
  1. The Ninebot One E+ has one of the hardest response even today (much more so two years ago), but I never had any vibration. On my new KingSong KS16-S, pedals are also very stiff in the hardest setting, and I also don't get any vibration problems, not at low or at high speed. The only thing I noticed is that the KS16 has a larger dead band where you can slightly tilt the pedals back and forth but the motor doesn't do anything. This is not present on the Ninebot. Any move will immediately trigger a response from the wheel.
  2. Hmm, when I turn on the KS16-S and my phone is somewhere nearby, the wheel says: "Hello, KingSong. Bluetooth is connected." and the speakers work instantly. No KS app or anything started on the phone, phone not even active (display off, standby). It works every time within a few seconds. Usually, when the wheel is done greeting itself, it immediately continues to tell me that bluetooth is connected as well. That's on a OnePlus 3T, Android 7.1.1. Just for reference.
  3. Oh, that may be it! When I adjust the position of the toes to be more V style or more parallel (I seem to feel most comfortable with a slight V position as opposed to perfectly parallel). I do this by putting the weight on the heels and turn the toes to the position I want. That would explain it. The way the NB1 pedals are built, you can do this for 10 years without any wear, but on these pedals... Maybe they are designed for "step on and stay put" kind of riding. But I reposition a lot, I guess.
  4. Same here. Calibration helped, the super-steep downhill section is not that frightening anymore. I also have some off-road sections with loose stones, too large to even call it gravel. It's really annoying and very hard to ride on. Also, one has to watch out for stones which are too large to fit underneath the pedals when going close by, or between two of them. During the first off-road test I had to drop the wheel due to such a situation (at crawling speed, normally would have catched it but missed this one time ). But now some update on the pedals: After 200km, the grip tape is starting to peel off. I guess I can just renew it myself. Still a little annoying that this happens after such a short time using it. The pedals on my NB1 are not that slippery too, and hold up nicely for 2 years and 2000km now. On the KS16, it looks like I have to work on the pedals every 2 months, so that's 6 times a year servicing the pedals... Maybe it's from riding off-road? Or maybe because recently I did some highly repetitive training sessions. For example one hour just doing figure T in a small area (so lots of direction changes and sharp turns). I go forward, sharp quarter turn left, stop, reverse, sharp quarter turn right, continuing in the same direction but now riding backwards. Stop and do the same again in the other direction... I guess I repositioned my feet a lot during this training. Could have accelerated the problem. I wonder where to get such a grip tape
  5. I guess they already use it for production, but did not publish it yet (and maybe never will)... Actually, that happens with our company too Sometimes we will ship devices with newer firmware than available on the website. But usually we get that resolved within a week or two.
  6. No, I don't have an iPhone. But it's really not a problem, I was just wondering why that is. I think climbing performance is normal on my wheel. However, @Lukasz definitely has firmware 1.02 on his new wheel. You can see it in his video and his braking current is no longer 70A, as is the case with 1.00, so there are some changes in 1.02.
  7. I agree. My NB1 and my KS16 do this as well. It must be related to the way the gyro chips work. There is some kind of hardware related measurement error in some situations that would need careful error correction in software, which no one seems to bother doing. Not a real problem for me during normal riding, but there is one action where this effect is really extreme (on both wheels). Try this, just for fun: Hold on to a wall or something, while standing on the wheel. Keep the wheel still for a while, note the level pedals. Now turn the wheel around by 180 degrees on the spot. Do this pretty fast try both directions (on my wheel, the effect is much more extreme when turning counter clock wise). Notice how the pedals tilt forward and remain in an extreme 'down' position at first. Now slightly rock the wheel back and forth. Pedals slowly return to their calibrated neutral position. I assume that spinning the gyro around its Z axis causes the Z axis to tilt, most likely due to some kind of precession movement. If not corrected in software, this will cause the pedals to tilt, as the Z axis tilts. When the spinning is stopped, it realigns itself again. The same effect can be duplicated on smartphones: Install an app showing horizontal alignment of the phone (two-dimensional, using a circle which moves in X and Y direction as the phone is tilted up/down and left/right). Now if you start the app and put the phone on a table, the circle will be centered (if the table is level). Turning the phone around on the table quickly, causes the circle to leave its center position and come back slowly when the movement stops. In theory, there would be no reason for the circle to leave the center position, because the phone is only turned around its Z axis. Our wheels have the same measurement error. Maybe some EUC companies already started to experiment with algorithms to compensate this effect, so some wheels will do it less than others, but in general I think it is caused by the gyro and is not something they are doing in their firmware on purpose. I am sure a physical bulls eye level would not do this. You could rotate it around on the table and the bubble would stay centered.
  8. Interesting. On the KS16-S, the lights change accrding to riding direction. When I ride backwards, the back light becomes white and the front becomes red. Also, the red light (whichever it is), changes brightness when braking. It lights up brighter when decelerating. So, on this model they are completely symetrical. Light intensity is also the same, no matter which end functions as the head light.
  9. Hi @Lukasz, my wheel has firmware 1.00. Forward current is OK, but braking current, which should be a negative number, always shows 70A (power shows some 4500W). I use app version 1.4 too, and both the KS app and WheelLog show the same problem. I reported it to KS and they basically acknowledged the problem but did not say anything about where and when it would be resolved. @esaj found out that the KS app expects an unsigned (positive) 2-byte value for the current, which would not work if the wheel actually reported negative values for braking current (like the NineBot does). Maybe in firmware 1.02, they changed it back to the way it was in KS16-B/C/D so that the existing app can handle it. Now braking current seems to be positive again, like normal driving current. That's bad, because its somewhat wrong, but better than the 70A reading... I tried again with the calibrated wheel and it does OK with climbing in general (17kph on a hill where my 500W NB1 would go 7kph at best). However, the app reading never shows more than some 1300W, maybe a little more when I push it really hard. I guess the reading is just wrong. My NB1 shows close to 1500W going up this hill at 7kph speed, so something can't be right with these numbers. The KS16 can't be 10kph faster using less power than the NB1. Also, @KingSong69 reported that he can get 2000-3000W readings from his KS16 (not S). If you happen to watch the power reading while going up a hill, I would be interrested in the readings you get. Also, I don't see an option to upgrade to 1.02 yet. When I go to firmware upgrade in the app, it only shows the curret version 1.00 and nothing else. I suspect that this green app isn't even able to do a firmware upgrade on the new wheels, they need to get the new app ready for that. I guess.
  10. Thanks, that's interesting! I'll try it again, with the re-calibrated wheel and me having a little more experience in pushing the wheel up steep hills. I guess it really may be a matter of the old app not being compatible with the new -S firmware. Also, the braking current is totally wrong with this firmware. Only shows 70A (positive)... So they might have changed something in the -S firmware that makes it incompatible to the current app (Amp readings at least), and they don't fix it since they are working on a new app anyways.
  11. As a 'first aid', until I may actually take on this mod, I used a little WD-40. It already helped a lot to fold the pedals up with much less effort (can now be done 'by foot') which wasn't even possible before. Just mentioning for others which would like to have this ultimate solution but can't do it at the moment, like myself.
  12. Thanks, I calibrated according to this tip (lean the wheel against something until it almost tips over). Great way to find the balance point, because you can't use the phone on the pedals for that (they are tilted inwards). Interestingly, the app I used on my phone did not show 0° before calibration, more like 2.5°. So, assuming that absolute values are maybe not really correct, I just calibrated another 2° offset, going to 4.5° as per my measurements. It makes a big difference! Before, I sometimes felt like my toes were pointing downwards while riding, now it is the opposite. I think my first measurement before calibration was not accurate and I now do have quite an upward angle. I should maybe reduce it a little... But I think everyone should take the time and calibrate his/her wheel for optimum personal comfort! I always assumed these wheels come perfectly adjusted from the factory and the user could only make things worse, so better not touch it (I never touched this on my NB1, it was just perfect the way it was). In any case, it doesn't only help going up hill, it also helps braking when going downhill. It's now much easier to really push down on the heels from a slightly upward position, as opposed to trying to push down on the heels when the toes are pointing downwards... There is a really steep road section I drive sometimes, coming out of the woods and back on the street, where I start at crawling speed before the descend, as the wheel is picking up speed going down because I just can't hold it. I could not stop at this (short) road section. It's frightening. I'll try again after calibration and see if it improved. I hope so.
  13. That one looks much cleaner, but I think it's not from an SMT line. At least paste and components are placed by hand. Amount of solder is too much for mask printed paste, and component orientation is very inconsistent. Looking at the row of 330 Ohm resistors at the left: They should be all the same orientation when auto-placed, but on this board they are rotated 180 degrees on a random basis. No SMT line would do this (with a sane programming). It may have seen a reflow oven for soldering though... Manual or not, this board looks good to me. Structure size is pretty big on those boards, so technically no problem to do these by hand, if done correctly. As long as is doesn't get smaller than 0603 and there are no BGAs involved, it doesn't have to be done by machines. It just increases reliability a lot if there isn't a human picking components from boxes and hopeully putting them in the right spot and the right orientation on the board. There is a lot of room for error. Most failures on our boards come from the very few parts that have to be placed manually (through-hole caps), although soldered by machine later on. People inserting the caps get the polarity wrong, even though they have a 50% chance of getting it right without even looking. Luckily AOI can detect it via the marking on the caps...
  14. What I wanted to say is that they can simply have Foxconn or any other contract manufacturer solder the boards for them. That's what we did until we built our own SMT line. It's simple and not really expensive either. You send the bare PCBs and the BOM (bill of materials) and they will order the required parts (or have them in stock anyways), stuff them, solder the boards, and test them. With lot sizes of 200 - 500 pieces, I am not sure if that wouldn't even be less expensive than manual production. Even if a little more expensive, a more reliable product may be worth a few dollars extra for the board, I guess. But maybe they get the boards as they are from some other company and don' really build them. Edit: Just found out that Foxconns largest factory with somewhere between 200.000 and 400.000 employees is located in Shenzhen, so GW would have their contract manufacturer right around the corner...
  15. I can imagine that. On the other hand, it's China where most of todays high tech is manufactured (iPhone included), so they can do it. But it may not be accessible to everyone. Still, they could order their boards from Foxxcon or a similar company. I am sure there are many of those even in the Shenzen area. We do all of our production in Europe and some 40% of the investment in building the SMT line was government-funded, because they want companies to do high tech here instead of doing design only and have everything manufactured over in China.