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About mrelwood

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    Southern Finland
  1. I shrug when I think what would’ve happened if I had worn a tether when I fell down a few weeks ago. A sudden mud pond at a light curve, going perhaps 20km/h. I fell somewhat on my side and rolled a few rounds. Had I worn a tether, it would’ve wrapped around me (probably first going under the crotch) and pulled the EUC to hit me with the sharp pedal edges. Horrible idea to have a mandatory fixed tether. And if it’s not fixed, fe. loosely in the pocket, the probability of the user to be fast enough to grab the tether while falling or right after falling... I fail to see how a tether could be a good thing. Other than perhaps the first few hours of learning.
  2. Landed on my a**, stopping on a dime

    Lhotz has a measured peak power of 1200W, which I would think is also the reserve for a short lasting emergency braking. I have felt the Lhotz giving up shortly when braking very fast from something like 10km/h. The one time I fell down on the Lhotz at speed was a long and pretty steep asphalt downhill that had a sudden drop. I was riding at near the max speed (which is 26km/h) and the Lhotz was not able to provide the power needed to brake so I landed on my back. Luckily I only got minor injury. The power limits felt a bit too easy to reach so I upgraded to a KS-16S.
  3. IOS users beware: Do not upgrade to IOS 11

    iPhone 6, upgraded to iOS 11 over wifi, KingSong app connects to KS-16S just like before the upgrade. Didn’t look in the iOS Bluetooth menu before, now I only see KingSongMusic under Other Devices. KingSong app, Darknessbot and Gyrometrics all connect perfectly.
  4. KS-16S - Handle not staying locked

    I tend to oil or grease moving parts that I suspect being prone to wear, even on new devices. Hence I have problems like this extremely rarely. I didn’t do it on the KS-16S handle, but as soon as I started feeling increased friction, I did. WD-40 is a great multi-purpose oil, works wonders here also.

    My feet ache pretty fast due to a connective tissue syndrome. My solution has been: Shoes. Low motorcycle shoes or half length boots, large enough to fit two thick well cushioned insoles (one flat and one contoured, no silicone gel). The shoes must feel like you would be on cloud 9 all day with them. Skateboarding shoes or hiking boots should work well too. Foot position. Put the back edge of the shoe at the back edge of the pedals, and adjust if necessary. Move your feet during riding. Curl your toes, lift the ball of foot, lift the heel (be careful!). Left foot - right foot - ... etc. Device calibration. A balance between comfort (forward tilt) and safety for emergency breaking (backward tilt). Shock absorbers. I managed to install a shock absorbing system on the pedals of my KS-16S. Some EUCs might not have a place to do that though. This mostly helps knee pain and tired legs, but helped with feet issues as well. I can now ride the battery empty (40km) without breaks, in the beginning it was just 5km.
  6. Kingsong 16 S, what set up do you use?

    I think I would use the hardest Player mode the most, but it has about a 5km penalty on the battery range. Therefore I mainly use the medium Riding mode. I only use Player mode on difficult uneven paths with roots and such, as it gets me over the obstacles with less effort and in better balance. I have recently started feeling that the medium Riding mode might be more comfortable on smaller bumps on paved roads. A few weeks ago Justina wrote that KingSong is almost done with a new firmware for the 16S with improvements (or additions?) on the riding modes. I'm excited to see what they came up with!
  7. What is your experience with the KS16S until now ?

    Shortly in topic for a change. Besides my KS-16S I only have ridden a IPS Lhotz, so nothing relevant to compare the KS-16S to. Not surprisingly, I just love it! The handling is good, huge power, integrated trolley handle is a great plus, 4000km without issues, and battery capacity is decent. The side pads are thin and located too low for me, and the front light could be brighter for night riding. The only major negative in my book is the tire. Compared to the two 2.5" tires I've tried on (requires cutting the shell) the 2.125" original has restless handling, and dangerously bad grip on fine gravel and dirt. How would they even know? Take shock absorbers for example. If Msuper was sold both with and without a durable, well working shock absorbing system for $50 extra, I don't see why anyone would go for the non-shock version. Atleast if they got to try it in action. Customers do want it, yet no-one builds it. And I don't trust that customers always know to want features on an EUC either. If you are learning on a bad riding generic that cuts out every now and then and maxes out at 5 miles and you don't know any better, you will probably deem the whole industry as dangerous toys with very little distance. Most likely you won't know to wish for a 1600Wh quality EUC that rides like a dream and never cuts out. You just forget the whole EUC thing and move on. I think most EUCs should be sold with atleast two very different battery capacities. For example Rockwheel GT-16 is sold with 860Wh or 1036Wh. It should be more like 340/860/1600Wh.
  8. Ninebot One Z : Z6-Z8-Z10

    I believe it's about the amount of deforming the tire does. I have played with EUC tire pressures quite a bit, and the change is clear: High pressure makes going up curbs more difficult. At lower pressures the EUC doesn't have to go over the edge of the curb completely, so the curb is smoother. A 4" tire must be very tall also, and with a suitable pressure it definitely has a big advantage when going over sharp curbs. What is notable in my mind is that while the curbs in the Z videos I've seen are not that high, none of them has the rider hopping to reduce his affected weight. I wouldn't try those curbs without hopping with my KS-16S even with a grippy 2.5" tire. So it's all kudos to the fat tire. A skilled rider could go up very high curbs with a tire like that! I'm hoping the dying at the top of the grass hill is because of a low battery, rider stopping in front of a branch or something like that. The Z could be the new offroad King to rule my modified KS-16S, but some of these videos surely dent my dreams.
  9. How much do you spend to maintain your Addiction?

    Wow, those tricks! I've ridden about 6700km total since March, and only forward! Regarding spending on EUCing, time is what I spend the most. Riding, testing tires, trying shock absorber designs etc. Haven't broken anything but a charger, and only bought tires and a handle as an extra. My spent total is at 2500€ plus clothing and protection. But I bought the two Lhotzes to build a two-wheeler, so not exactly EUCing...
  10. Correct motor arm tightness?

    Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the assembly .I noticed that my feet were able to feel a slight rumble, so I did reattach the motor arms so that the rings are not squeezed tight. They now easily rotate without being too loose to move sideways. The rumble disappeared, and I think I now have slightly better mileage. Must test more to confirm.
  11. Ninebot One Z : Z6-Z8-Z10

    My thoughts exactly. Take a step on wet sand and the grip is totally gone. This has been working well for me:
  12. Shock Absorbers, Easy DIY!

    No idea. I would have to measure the center point with me standing on the EUC. All the testing was done purely by feel on the same paths with familiar rough spots and obstacles. In order to absorb going down curbs the tire pressure had to be lowered so much that it had a negative effect in feel of control and ofcourse mileage. I'm still in a bit of a honeymoon perioid with the current setup, and I decidely take on speed for rough spots just for the fun of it! I'm sure I will calm down in time... A big effect is the lack of leg fatigue. I used to be a bit worn out towards the end of my trips, so I would take curbs and bumps very slowly. Without the fatigue I know I'm sharper and more alert. I did think about it, and actually the red silicone tube in one of the photos is filled with silicone. It didn't behave very well. The suitable materials and thicknesses took quite a bit of testing, so a silicone would be a lottery to get to the right thickness and riding pedal angle. And waiting for it to dry completely would mean two days without riding. Can't do that! I found it good to have such material and amount that the weightless pedal angle is quite high. Solid rubber is way too dense for that, as it doesn't actually compress that much. Or, or... Lemme think... Insoles!! How about insoles? Wouldn't have to wait for it to cure... ;o)
  13. Shock Absorbers, Easy DIY!

    I reserve the second post for additional pictures of the current design.
  14. I finally found a combination of design and materials for EUC shock absorbers that work exceptionally well. Most if not all EUCs have a similiar pedal design in which the pedal is extended to the other side of the pivot point. This extension is stopped by the motor arms. Attaching a suitable amount of springy material between those points makes for an easy DIY shock absorbers. Doing this is safe, since if the shock absorbers fail or get detached during riding, the pedals only return to their original behaviour. Materials Choosing the best materials is a bit tricky since the material thickness should compress to almost nothing. Silicone gel from shoe insoles works well for this, and restores it's form well even under these rough conditions. The gel is not perfect however, as the rebound seems to be a bit slow and weak. It also seems to be a bit bouncy in some situations. Some shoe insoles use firmer polyurethane foam that is exeptional for shock absorbing. It doesn't compress nearly as much as silicone gel, so by itself it is hard under pressure and increases the pedal angle too much. I have tried quite a few designs and materials over the last month. Note that most pics do not show the current design. Result Using PU foam and silicone gel together I was able to construct shock absorbers that work marvellously. I have no porblem riding at device max speed of 35km/h over small bumps and rough patches on dirt roads. I stay perfectly in control, as my feet stay glued to the pedals. Dirt roads are now more comfortable than asphalt, since the asphalt roads here have a lot of cracks and other inconstencies. Shock absorbers even out the cracks too ofcourse, but they don't disappear. Feet fatigue is also reduced by a significant amount. I would also like to claim that the grip between the EUC and ground is now better. I think that since the downward force from my weight to the wheel stays more uniform, the EUC bounces less. In practice I have a lot more confidence keeping up speed on steep and bumpy uphills. My average speed has increased quite a bit. All EUCs would benefit largely from shock absorbers. Especially when riding fast, the riding control is a lot better, making riding itself safer. Design The key to best operation seemed to be to put PU foam in places that won't close completely when the pedal is in riding position. There is a groove in the KS-16S motor arms that I filled with a 1 * 4cm piece of the 5mm thick PU foam. I attached a 3-4 * 10cm piece of the 5mm thick gel insole with a metal wire pushed through the ends. The KS-16S has holes through the motor arms at suitable places, so I pushed the wire through to the other side, and again through the gel. It's best to leave the fabric on the gel insole to the outside, otherwise the ends of the wire would cut through the gel. In the picture below is the additional bar under the gel cover. In the picture the bar is of the same gel, later replaced with the better functioning PU foam. Cost of the shock absorbers was in my case $0, since both insoles were deemed unsuitable for intended use. The value of the shock absorbers is a lot higher than two pairs of insoles, and I wouldn't think twice before buying them just for this. Do note that Other EUCs might not have a design that can incorporate the shock absorbers as well, or at all. For example IPS Lhotz has such small contact area that I don't know how one would get the material to stay in place. Besides, the Lhotz pedal connection is tight, so the geared plastic hinges would have to be filed flat to loosen the joint for the suspension to work at all. And the pedal angle is already too steep...
  15. 25% range loss after just 1170 kilometers ?

    KS-16S announce 100% charge at 66.1V, which is 4.13V per cell. That is actually 93.5% of the available capacity (3.125V = 0%). Continuing the charge after that the cells slowly reach 4.2V, and BMS performs cell balancing. I'm not sure when the balancing starts, but it is recommended to perform an extended full balance charging every 10 charge cycles or so. I bought the Charge Doctor v2 mainly for faster charging with two chargers. I have experimented with charge cutoff at 2A, 1.5A, 1A, 0.5A and 0.1A. I'm not ready to give up on the range, so I'm now using the 0.1A cutoff hoping it will still be slightly better than to leave it on for extended hours every time. Then again, I ride 2-3 long trips every day, so most charges would be cutoff anyhow before the full 4.2V is reached.