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Everything posted by meepmeepmayer

  1. Coolio. Given by the success of some of these Youtube unboxing channels, don't forget us lowly EUC fanatics once you're rich and famous And keep EUCs among the phones and drones to spread the word.
  2. Those were the times, when everyone believed "animated" meant "fit for small children"
  3. @WARPed1701D Thanks! Didn't know Inmotion had such a good manual. Sometimes we're lucky to get a non-Chinese text that could technically be called a manual with our wheels, so this is a surprise. True. To relativize the possible alarm here, from experience wheels are really safe and it takes a lot to crash or break one. Except for extreme hills (as defined by "Whoops that was too much, ouch my hands/knees, now I have to carry the thing down") or hardware failures (or people disabling alarms and going too fast), nothing ever happens and people ride wheels and enjoy.
  4. To answer this question, it might be good to know the production date. It is the first 6 digits of the serial number, which is on the sticker on the box, below the bar code.
  5. @applecran A little explanation about wheels and inclines: These "rated for x%" numbers might as well be made up and mean nothing. What matters is the weight (EUC+rider). Lifting this weight is the decisive power requirement compared to flat terrain. Double that weight, you get half the incline percentage for the same power requirement. For example, assuming a 60 kg rider and a 80 kg rider plus a 15kg wheel, 20% incline for the 60kg rider is "the same" as 15% incline for the 80 kg rider [ (15+60)/(15+80)*20% = 15,8% ]. That's where numbers like "25% incline" come from, 50 kg light Chinese test riders. Super short inclines, even steep ones, are totally fine as long as your wheel can do them at all without breaking (like blowing a mosfet) or giving up. 25%, 45%, if it works it works. Long inclines are the tricky ones. They will (depending highly on your weight) require high currents. While the batteries (at least big ones) can provide this, the motor cables of basically all wheels aren't rated for these currents and are too thin (because they must fit through the thin axles). From Gotway wheels (ACM specifically, but msuper V3 has the exact same motor), we know that we can more or less reliably melt the cable isolation from the high temperatures (due to these currrents) which will short and destroy the board + motor and crash you. On extreme hills, mind you, but it's reproducible. See for example here: It's very hard to give numbers, but for me (80kg) on anything >10% incline I make regular breaks every few minutes (this is a very conservative experience value). I fried my ACM by going for >5 minutes (closer to 10) on a much steeper hill (not sure exactly what %). So a few minutes should be ok, but that is with my weight. You are 95kg so what is 10% for me is 9% for you, and 15% for me is 13% for you, etc. About other manufacturers, nobody really tested their wheels on long steep inclines (which create these currents), especially the new ones that are close in power to the Gotways (1200W 16S, 1500W 18S Kingsongs vs 1500W Gotways), but in theory they should have the same problem. Some might for some reason warn you (the Gotway Monster overheated on the same hill the ACM died, and was fine), some might work better for hills (Kingsongs, probably), but we simply have no real experience values because the only way to test what is too much for any wheel is to break it I don't want to scare you away. But long (more than just a few hundred meters), steep (>10%, or maybe >15%) inclines are really the high-demand situation that show us the limits of current wheels (no redundancy, so if some part breaks you crash; no guaranteed warnings for any kind of situation before something happens). This is all very conservative. In the end, the only way to test if a wheel can do something is to try it. Lots of people have used wheels for extensive mountain rides, but that just means they have their experience values what works. You need to build and have your own. I just want to mention, there is no wheel yet that would allow you to do a no-second-thoughts mountain ride on arbitrary inclines (such a wheel would either warn you of too high demand, or simply stop going, but NOT possibly blow a fuse or break or stop working in another way, guaranteed). That's my perspective, I got my EUC specifically with the idea of doing mountains. You need to be a little careful with those. The ride you mentioned, and if a Ninebot can do it, pretty sure you will NOT have these problems with a better wheel (the demands aren't high or long enough for that). So don't be scared away - just be aware Get a better wheel if you like, and enjoy! and wear protection
  6. A lot of people make the "mistake" of starting with a Ninebot. But it isn't really a mistake. The Ninebot is a quality wheel for what it can do (slow riding) and with a good price. Would you have impulse bought a 1000$ wheel? Probably not. The Ninebots are a great gateway drug, once you've ridden one, the urge to get a better wheel will just get stronger, you'll see For you, I recommend a 16S or a >1000Wh 18S, ACM, or msuper V3.
  7. This is what 1rad did fix for you? Or a different issue?
  8. Would the wheel really shut off instantly from the first little overcharge, instead of at least beep for a few seconds? Good theory though, maybe this is what happend. Another case made for big batteries (more parallel configuration might help with absorbing overcharging without catastrophe)
  9. Forget the wheels for now, and maybe go to a doctor to check everything is as ok with you as it can be given the circumstances. What you describe with your neck does not sound fun. I would strongly recommend going to an orthopedic specialist. Maybe a bit early for that, but if I were you I'd definitely do that sooner or later. It's not just broken bones (which the doctor can also say something about), but possibly the entire system being out of whack due to the crash. Don't underestimate things like this and get them checked.
  10. What information? From where? Please tell more At this stage, I'm more interested in under-the-hood (electronics) improvements instead of nicer design or whatever.
  11. Overlean means leaning forward more than the wheel can balance, which automatically leads to you falling forward, on your face Nothing to do with sidewards leaning (like in curves). Usually happens with combinations of high speeds (because the wheel's torque reserves go down with speed), heavy rider, a sudden obstacle/beginning hill that requires extra balancing power, and weaker wheels. Also more likely with low battery, and smaller batteries (less parallel blocks than a bigger one). So when the wheel runs out of power, or out of battery to provide enough power. In theory, you can overlean any wheel by going faster and faster, ignoring warning beeps and counteracting the tiltback, until the wheel can't keep up any longer. That's how self-balancing vehicles work by principle, they can't force you to slow down (only tell you to by beeps and tiltback) because slowing down would contradict the self-balancing and would hence crash you. So all the wheels can do is give their best til the bitter end. But with your msuper V3 ACM, you'd have to overlean it intentionally (ignoring warnings and tiltback), pretty much impossible to do it by accident unless you're going too fast already, and something crazy like a big bump or huge gust of headwind comes up suddenly. That's why fast/strong wheels (>1000W) with big batteries (>1000Wh) are actually safer in this regard: they have higher reserves. Like your wheel btw, did you ever confirm your msuper ACM safe from that oscillation bug?
  12. Scared of overleans? 2 options: Ride slower (Boooooooooooring!) Get a >1000W, >1000Wh (6P or more battery pack) wheel and forget overleans are a thing (Better!) Also, stop deactivating speed warnings on your 14Cs (any wheel, really, but 14Cs seem the overlean wheel of choice here) and then wondering why you just crashed going 30+ km/h
  13. And I thought Inmotion were a bit more professional in their doings. But apparently it's a requirement that only arcane knowledge and possibly some chicken/goat/newborn sacrifices during a full moon plus a month of fasting must be required for a successful calibration, from all manufacturers.
  14. Delete browser cache etc. or use Firefox (apparently the poor people's browser, from targeted pricing studies), restart your internet box for a new IP address, and see if the price goes lower again
  15. Bad with the homeless, or bad with the trash? Also, the city could at least put up some trashcans at known homeless camps. Otherwise, no surprise this happens. But apparently they really don't care. Thanks for the info. Somehow I find such stuff interesting. How people organize (or don't) the places they live.
  16. Just an idea, would it make sense to buy a new motor (1200W) and board of a newer (latest?) KS18A version? If you exchanged that, would it be compatible with the rest? If that can be done, maybe a current board is cheaper so this might make sense in the long term if you are worried about the old board blowing again (which would be another 260 and may be supply constrained). And you get an improved wheel as a bonus. Also, 260 is crazy price for any board!! edit: oops, that was already suggested. But I think if it can be done, maybe it's worth it. How much did you pay for the wheel in the first place? Also maybe the 520Wh is a custom/exchanged battery, not from the factory?
  17. I enjoyed watching this. "River" (Why don't they just call it a canal if it is one? Because historically and still it technically is a a river?) riding, a bit of parks, and including a look at some of the more unsightly parts of the route, too. I find these especially interesting because there's so many little details. Too bad the footpath/bikepath seems to double as trashcan at times. Maybe some synergy with this homeless camp would be possible, they pick up the trash and put up a donation box with a sign explaining that, might work. Or maybe they're the cause of the trash, as it was right below their camp too? Loved the parts where the ACM has that little "stern wave" from sand/dust and leaves the tire track on the ground. Just looks cool.
  18. Coolio! No idea if the pedal dipping on Inmotions is intentional or a bug (presumably) like on the Gotways/Kingsongs. Don't even know if you can recalibrate them, but I guess you can edit: No idea how hard it is to recalibrate, but if it's confusing like on GWs, you can do a really crazy recalibration (with insane pedal level) to confirm the method works.
  19. Do the calibration now, and make sure the wheel is not tilted sideways while you do it. This annoying pedal dipping is exactly what stopped me from doing "free" (no obstacle) turns.
  20. Would you have some slightly bigger versions of the pictures?
  21. Could this be solved by "balancing" the cells (charging to 100% and keeping the charger in for a bit and then waiting a bit), or does this kind of behavior mean there's a definitely bad cell that must be replaced or it will happen again?
  22. That place is perfect for learning! Soft surface, and walls all around.
  23. gotway

    Cool! You should post in the video thread too. What is that helmet with the built in light? (seen at the very end) Looks like Oslo has a lot of ugly architecture
  24. They put some engineering in the shell How does one even make this from aluminium? CNC?
  25. Some more comments: If you're looking at the 67.2V ACM (680, 820Wh), the battery should be the exact same size as the KS16S: 16 serial cells * 4 times * 3.7V nominal cell voltage * 3500mAh per cell = 828,8 Wh. GW just uses that as 820 while KS as 840. In the 67V ACM vs 67V 16S comparison, I'd go for the 16S because the main strengths of the 84V ACM (25% more powerful 84V version, bigger batteries) aren't there, and in my opinion then the 16S is better overall (I've tested neither 67V ACM or 16S, but I guess you would not even notice the power difference). If you're doubting you'll need a bigger battery, you'll be happy with 840 (or whatever the exact number) Wh. Especially with your weight which gives you ~25% (guesstimate) more range compared to a 80kg rider. Some people just instantly know they'll need as much range as possible (like me or Marty) and the big batteries are for them (you'd benefit too, but you won't miss it if it isn't there, and you can always get another wheel should you really want more range).