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About meepmeepmayer

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  1. how to get the most battery life out of a euc

    I'm wondering if it is possible to lose energy by going down a really steep hill or braking really hard. Where the energy spent to support that is bigger than what you get back from regeneration. Or do you always have some kind of regeneration in every deceleration situation? If you went down a very steep and long enough hill really fast, eventually you'd also have to brake to not get too fast. So the wheel constantly brakes while you're at 50km/h or so. Would you get regeneration then, or not? Not going to try this one
  2. KS14M (800W / 174WH)

    That was unexpected! Not sure what to think of this. But 20km/h and 1P is basically unusable unless it's for kids and you don't like them particularly much Or maybe light Asians with no speed concerns? Unless the price is really good, I guess it's neat that another option exists, but to me it's a typical case of "why not pay ~200-300 more for a much, much better wheel" (doubled battery) that plagues the lower tier models. Aka (U.S. prices): 14M 500??? or more (don't think it will be less) - 20km/h, 174Wh 1P (that's a borderline safety hazard) edit: he says 25000 rubels which would be about $450, but not sure if Russian and Western prices are similar 14D $770 - 28km/h, 420Wh 2P 14S ca. $1000 - 30km/h, 840Wh 4P I don't know at what price I'd actually go for the 14M. But it would probably lower than they will (and can) make it. Good to see that manufacturers get that a lower priced entry model is important (basically a modern Ninebot replacement), but it also shows how hard it is to make a decent lower-priced EUC with a competitive ratio of price/what-you-get. At least there's a cheaper, modern wheel now (vs. older generation models you had to go for before the 14M, like Ninebots). Might be enough for plenty people?
  3. how to get the most battery life out of a euc

    I just noticed that you're basically at +-0% battery when going down steep hills, while you can get significant charges from going down less steep hills. I'm imagining it like that (just a theory): in general, the less the wheel has to work while the tire is still being rotated, the more charge you get from the regeneration due to the rotating motor/magnets. So ideally you'd just roll down the hill like the wheel was off (only work is the balancing, which is a small energy requirement). On really steep hills (15% or 20% or so) the wheel has to brake all the time (which costs energy) so less regeneration. But maybe it's just that you're slower on steep hills and so you get barely any regen? Just because the tire rotates much slower? I don't know. Would have to do actual measurements to be sure what exactly happens in the first place.
  4. how to get the most battery life out of a euc

    It's not invented and implemented, it happens with every electric motor due to physics. You use a current to make a magnetic field (which moves the magnets), but also moving magnets (= magnetic field) will produce a current. You can't have an electric motor without regenerative breaking. Basically it works like this: flat road = you need battery to ride going downhill = you get battery back (regenerative breaking) = you can go on forever (until your battery is full, then you have to stop or ride flat or uphill again) going really steep downhills = you almost get no battery back because it has to brake too, so it's more or less neutral
  5. Getting close(r)

    Still waiting for any reports (or anything) from one in the wild. Haha, what's next, they no longer call it a wheelbarrow??? What has the world come to...
  6. ACM 1600 Anti Slip Pedal Studs

    BIG = not done in a day or a few days. Like your awesome ACM upgrading, or bigger. I just noticed you seem to be enjoying (and needing) projects to do
  7. ACM 1600 Anti Slip Pedal Studs

    Fantastic project. Looks very medieval And the spikes damaging the shell was predictable, surprised you didn't add a new side pad right from the start. But knowing how slippery snow on the pedals makes riding, this is perfect against that. Just don't ride barefooted Do the spikes have a counter-nut or something similar, or are they just screwed into the plate? Glad you found another DIY project to occupy your urges But obviously you need a bigger one. I'm thinking, maybe we here should devise something (EUC-related, of course) for you to enjoy building. Win-win situation for both sides! Now we just need an idea...
  8. My Tesla Triumphs, Tribulations, and Failures

    @Flow Didn't you just get your wheel repaired, after a looooooong wait? My condolences Mosfet blown is really strange. That shouldn't happen in this situation. Guess the board was a "bad" one (with shitty mosfets that blow on the first stress).
  9. Gotway tesla 1020wh finally arrived (first euc)

    He's sometimes a bit of an absolutist Ride as you naturally would! Don't think too much, just do. Of course bending the knee a little ( = the knees not maximally extended) is better for bumps. So do it.
  10. A good starter wheel?

    In that case, buying a "cheap" wheel would be wasting money. I'd say, get a 16S or Tesla and enjoy
  11. A good starter wheel?

    Wheels make you notice a lot how handicap accessible or inaccessible places are. Aka ramps and elevators (wheelchair, frail people and wheel compatible) vs. stairs. If you ever need a feel good argument for EUCs to convince old people, tell them "wheels have opened your eyes" regarding that -- On topic: Most people here will recommend to get your forever wheel right now instead of going for a cheap one first. The cheap one would be wasted money in the end (you'll barely use it after you have a better one), and also cheaper (<1000€ roughly) wheels usually have really bad price to performance ratio - e.g. you can pay 700-800€ for a 240Wh battery or 1000€ for 480Wh. Same for max speeds etc. Used wheels can be an exception. This is a really neat offer in my opinion: And of course it's a question of how much money you can and want to spend. For serious and regular commuting, 16 inches is a bit more comfortable and bump-safe than 14, simply due to the bigger tire. But you can make both work. Standard recommendations for this would be the King Song 16S or 14D/14S. Take a look at the IPS i5 if you really want a backpackable wheel.
  12. My Safety Gear Update

    It's probably less likely than one would believe. And the guards still will cushion the impact fully (important for no broken bones = prevention of the really bad stuff) and help with a part of the sliding. It would just suck, if you think about it, to have your knee guards perfectly work but then they slide off a second too early and you ruined your pants or have a smaller wound anyways. This is more of a theoretical thought, not sure how realistic (you'd have to be 30+km/h as well, I guess), just came to my mind when I tried the fit of my new knee guards (open back = no sleeve).
  13. My Safety Gear Update

    I was less thinking of rotation and simply about the things sliding along your legs (off your knees) or arm (off the elbow) due to friction, until your body is still in motion but the protectors are no longer where they should be (knee, ellbow) = enjoy being grated = ouch.
  14. GotWay Tesla 1020 unboxing, first thoughts and comparison

    The idea is, your first crash should be at a speed where not too much happens. So 25km/h or less, ideally (though you already geared up with protection right from the start, which is great) Right now, you have no experience regarding speed vs. danger etc - a crash (even a small one) really helps you judge that stuff (worked for me).