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meepmeepmayer

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meepmeepmayer last won the day on October 30

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About meepmeepmayer

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  1. light last mile solutions

    If you want small and light (and very carryable), do you know about the IPS i5? I wouldn't know any other existing lighter electrical vehicle, except those "Rocket Skates" motorizes shoes (not sure how practical). Everything else is bigger (like electric skateboards) or heavier (including the mten3). https://www.ewheels.com/product/new-ips-i5-245wh-feather-weight/
  2. Video: Gotway Monster 100v version

    Don't the ACM, msuper V3 and Monster use the same motor? So if the ACM and ms3 get upgraded to the Tesla motor, did the Monster too? Still not liking the "let's take random parts from our warehouse and build a new wheel" approach of this. 100V or a stronger motor puts more strain on the electronics. Well, guess some Gotway beta testers (aka the first customers) will find out whether that works.
  3. Video: Gotway Monster 100v version

    Ew, Facebook Didn't know this is officially official yet. Hope their updated wheels won't be too experimental, like different parts stuck together and hoping everything works out.
  4. Has Gotway Ended Production of the ACM?

    They list an "ACM2" which seems to be an ACM with the Tesla motor. https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/collections/electric-unicycle/products/gotway-acm2-16-inch-electric-unicycle-1600wh
  5. Video: Gotway Monster 100v version

    Look what just showed up on Speedyfeet. https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/collections/electric-unicycle/products/gotway-monster-100v-version-1845wh Same price as the 2400Wh 84V, but that may be a placeholder. (The site also mentions an ACM2, but this might just be an error with the Tesla just released there's a description, seems to be an ACM with a Tesla motor) @Jason McNeil Is this the big Gotway wheel you mentioned, or is something else coming too?
  6. Gotway Tesla vs Onewheel Plus

    I don't think they're comparable. Riding style and usage and everything. Onewheels are like offroad/bumpyness-capable specialty skateboards, EUCs are actually useful general-purpose transportation tools and far better at this as we all know, those people are just jealous. I don't even care about stats - different ergonomics, different vehicles, different usages. Let them have their "Onewheeler!" identities and their fun, we are beyond such requirements, EUCs are practical AND fun enough on their own. (What other answer did you expect here?)
  7. i am seriously considering it!

    Settings: Disable tiltback, maybe (never ignore any beeps if you do that!). Try the ride modes, and set your favorite. Don't ever use that piece of crap official Gotway app again. Wheellog (Android) or Darknessbot/Gyrometrics (iOS) for everyday usage!
  8. My Mten3 Broke and What I'm Doing About it

    Wow this thread moved so fast, I missed the extra pages. mten3 repaired! Good job documenting all of this, Marty! I wish Gotway would care. We have to post those fried metal strip in the battery - pictures somewhere where they will see them and feel the need to react. Some Facebook group maybe? @aalenkin The 14D really screams "take me!" at you. The mten3 is comparably expensive because the battery is quite big for its size (batteries are what cost the most), it's a specialty wheel (not so much an allrounder) for people who most likely already have a EUC and are thus ready to burn any amount of money needed to get their fix, and it seems all manufacturers are trying to hike prices agressively lately as well. But to be fair, it seems to be a fantastically fun wheel for joyriding (not so much serious commuting when you may be tired or distracted and just want to get somewhere on some days) that everyone says is worth it. The 14D on the other hand is a smaller-ish allrounder (16 inches would be the standard allrounder recommendation for a bit more offroading and stability, 18 works too, but 14 is the lower end of the allrounder scale) and is sold by ewheels as the default, not too crazy-priced (aka some notable amount under $1000), current/latest model, "real" wheel (it replaced the Inmotion V5F in this regard) with a price that won't scare away a new, interested person who not already owns a EUC, and who may be on the fence. That's why you get comparably much for the money with a 14D. Lower-margin gateway drug The supposed mass market choice for new people. (And if you want quality, especially regarding electronics, the new Kingsongs 14D/S, 16S, 18S are just a big step above the rest.) That doesn't mean you should get a 14D now if you're unsure. Maybe save for a 16 incher, maybe you find a well-priced used wheel, maybe get any cheap wheel to start, whatever you are comfortable with when you are comfortable to make a decision or a lucky offer occurs . Just some info how I'd explain the prices. (Also, a big part of choosing is listening to your intuition and what you feel you instinctively want, do that)
  9. I don't think you are behind. Your brain literally needs time to learn. Training a lot on one day isn't going to produce a big result til the next day (at the earliest). That's all. You could take a break for a week and still be much better when you try again then. 5 mins a day would work. Etc. So learning simply requires down time, not just training. Don't try to force anything, that's how you get a wipeout. Another tip, as soon as you're on the wheel (if necessary by holding on to something, but a free start is better of course), GO STRAIGHT and GO FAST. Find a nice open, wide, straight road with no obstacles or mean-looking curbs to the side or such insecurity-producing distractions, and simply go fast. Step on and ACCELERATE. Faster is more stable and easier. Slow riding is much harder. Ignore doing curves and whatnot, simply try to get on the wheel and GO, as fast as necessary to stabilize you. For braking (which is good to know how to do once you're at 15+km/h and realize you have no idea how to stop), simply bend your knees/begin to squat, it shifts your weight back and brakes you. It's a beginner and emergency technique that works. The rest (regular braking by subtly leaning back withut necessarily bending the knees much) comes by itself. So to start riding, GO FAST and now you know how you can always brake if that's unclear.
  10. My Mten3 Broke and What I'm Doing About it

    Definitely indeed! How can they not do ultra-simple, common sense, electricity 101 considerations like "What's the worst this part mighthave to handle?"??? At least with the motor cables they had an excuse (axle space), but what's the excuse for crap like this? Marty, I'd try to get a replacement on Gotway's dime. Otherwise you reward them for making wheels you have to buy twice.
  11. Ninebot S1 melted wires - repair advice?

    Yep, he's right, I forgot Ninebot won't let you do your own repairs. Since you probably need a new board, you can't do it yourself.
  12. Is it possible to strengthen the Monster’s shell?

    The Techspec tank protector is quite expensive, be warned . Depending on the desired looks, you could use any rubber mat or cushioning material that works.
  13. Ninebot S1 melted wires - repair advice?

    Oh God I'm having flashbacks! Didn't know the Ninebot wires could melt, too. Pretty sure the reason is simply the wires are too thin for the high currents you can produce, so they heat up and melt their insulation and finally short together (it does not look like something got disconnected, so a short is probably what stopped the wheel). You can also see that from the bullet connectors (the thick parts that melted down) that melted their plastic covering (but didn't fail = disconnect). The wires and connectors just got very hot. The places where the cables and connector coverings touched each other or something else is where the heat damage appears first. You likely need a new board, if the short fried it. Also, either a new motor, or you fix those cables somehow (attach new cable "below" the bad spots and attach new bullet connectors). Sorry, can't help with how to do that. @Rehab1 did a lot of this stuff. Do the wires say what their diameter is (AWG rating or such, like 16AWG)? Both the ones from the board and the ones from the motor (which look thinner). Anyways, contact your dealer. Should be a warranty thing. Even if not, ask them what to do exactly. Also, not too much penduluming in the future, it appears the wheel just can't take such high currents for long. It seems to be inherent, not something that can be fixed. And if your wheels smells like burnt electronics, stop riding immediately -- For reference, I did this to my Gotway ACM by going up a long, steep hill (high current) and had the exact same thing (because the cables are too thin). Then later, I got the melty connector issue too. Cables melting their insulation and shorting together: (you can also see the AWG rating printed on the cable, but the more interesting rating is the thinner-cable motor side, not the board side which is usually thicker) I needed a new board and motor after that. Your mileage may vary. @Marty Backe had the same thing, as have some others. Melty connector: (it melted where it touched the shell, the others were hangin in free air and were okay, but they obviously all got hotter than they should ever be)
  14. Christmas & B-Day in one!

    Congratulations! Your guardian angel must have gotten a heart attack, two Gotways in one day
  15. Tesla problem

    They are fixed to the board in your picture and are supposed to be so. These are the motor power wires. On their way to the motor (the big black cable coming out of the axle), you have the bullet connectors. Each cable (yellow, blue, cyan) has it's own under the (transparent) heat shrink. Cut away the shrink and you should be able to unplug them. This is also how you connect the new board - plug in the connectors from the motor wire to the new board and DO NOT FORGET TO ADD NEW HEATSHRINK, IT IS THE ONLY THING ELECTRICALLY INSULATING THE CONNECTORS, IF THEY TOUCH WHEN THE WHEEL IS ON YOU GET A SHORT AND FRY THE WHEEL. ALSO BE CAREFUL TO NEVER LET THEM TOUCH IN DISASSEMBLY - DISCONNECT THE MAIN BATTERY CONNECTOR (the yellow blocky connector the black and red cable from the board lead to) AND SWITCH ON THE WHEEL UNTIL IT STOPS BALANCING/SWITCHES ITSELF OFF AND THE CAPACITORS ARE EMPTY TO MAKE SURE THERE'S NO ELECTRICITY LEFT SOMEWHERE THAT CAN PRODUCE A SHORT IF THE BARE CONNECTORS TOUCH. Also a good idea to separate the bullet connectors a bit to prevent heat build-up and reduce any risk of them touching each other without insulation (should the heat shrink fail for any reason, like overheating). Don't tie them together, ideally they should hang in the air separately. See here. Picture courtesy of @Tishawn Fahie. The golden things are the bullet connectors.
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