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meepmeepmayer last won the day on June 4

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  1. Some more comments: If you're looking at the 67.2V ACM (680, 820Wh), the battery should be the exact same size as the KS16S: 16 serial cells * 4 times * 3.7V nominal cell voltage * 3500mAh per cell = 828,8 Wh. GW just uses that as 820 while KS as 840. In the 67V ACM vs 67V 16S comparison, I'd go for the 16S because the main strengths of the 84V ACM (25% more powerful 84V version, bigger batteries) aren't there, and in my opinion then the 16S is better overall (I've tested neither 67V ACM or 16S, but I guess you would not even notice the power difference). If you're doubting you'll need a bigger battery, you'll be happy with 840 (or whatever the exact number) Wh. Especially with your weight which gives you ~25% (guesstimate) more range compared to a 80kg rider. Some people just instantly know they'll need as much range as possible (like me or Marty) and the big batteries are for them (you'd benefit too, but you won't miss it if it isn't there, and you can always get another wheel should you really want more range).
  2. @Rywokast 16S is a great wheel (as is the ACM). If you know you won't regret the "smaller" battery (still huge, with your weight you might get like 55 km range or more, who knows) one could argue the 16S is the better choice than the ACM because of the other features. And since you decided to upgrade from a V8, the 16S seems the more natural choice for you. More similar in features (handle, lights) and style of usage (if that makes sense - city riding) to the V8 than the ACM. And Marty is right, if you buy a Gotway it should not be from Ali right now, until much later when it is guaranteed you definitely will not get one produced in the bad firmware times. Anyways, enjoy your upcoming awesome ride! @eddiemoy I don't go 40 km/h, because I'm 80kg and don't want to go that fast anyways. Was just explaining what someone else might want to do with an ACM (and a lighter person can go 40 without danger), should they want to do that. And 1300Wh can be used up easily. Do a day ride with lots of breaks, include some elevation gained, and there you have it. Took me 4 hours of riding time. I would definitely have added 10 or 15 km on my way home (did cut it short due to battery), would not have hade to go slooooow while the wheel beeped at me the last few km, and would not have had to carry it for the last few hundred meters, and would possibly have added a detour in the middle, had my battery been bigger. And yes my feet were dead flat at the end but I could still stand on the wheel As Marty explained, it's also about having enough reserves left for spontaneous detours and not even having to think about battery. Some people just aren' comfortable with battery levels under 40% My motto is "You must give up before the wheel does" for how I want my wheels used for long range trips to be. Which theoretically is 8-10 hours of (battery demanding) riding. 1300Wh are still far from that. Of course these are extreme requirements, but it would be lovely to do a 100km day trip and return with 50% battery, simply because you can "Battery anxiety" is a way of life/riding, a promise of unlimited, no-strings-attached exploring, some people just enjoy it
  3. Well, definitely sounds like hardware failure (or switching off to protect the wheel) and not rider error, so don't blame yourself. I have nothing to add to the tips from the others. You can open it up and wiggle some parts (careful not to short anything) while the wheel is balancing, but the battery/BMS theory is much more likely as it seems. Also maybe ask your dealer.
  4. In this case (below 60kg weight), there really is a difference. The KS stops you at 35 no matter what, while you can go 45 on the ACM (@Pingouin did that I believe) and 40 would be a safe speed with still some reserves. I needed one long ride that depleted my ACM to realize even its 1300 Wh are not nearly enough. So depending on what the wheel is intended for, the bigger battery is a huge difference. Actually I really liked the 18S with 1680 Wh and was dreaming of ordering one, but that ride made me realize the small battery upgrade was not worth it for me and 2000 Wh is my new very minimum that would make any new wheel worth the price. May be the exception, but it's a thing. -- Anyways, what I can recommend is not to go for a 67V ACM (680Wh, 820Wh) - then the 16S is better, I think (same battery size but the rest is arguably better). But the 84V ACMs have their own unique strengths.
  5. Both wheels are great (16S and ACM). Take the ACM (84V) for the big battery if you need it (don't underestimate how awesome that is) and for pure power/speed (at 120 lbs you can go 40 km/h or so without problem) as well as the "Batwheel" shell; and the 16S for more features (trolley handle, better lights, speakers,...) and also a great look.
  6. Not sure we mean the same thing. The pedals suddenly dipping forward in curves is definitely happening in reality, and not just perceptional or due to riding style. You can even feel it after curves, when the pedal slowly goes horizontal again (which you can speed up by doing a quick brake+accelerate). If that's supposed a feature, it's the most counterproductive feature ever. If it's just a bug like on the Gotways (as it goes away after a proper calibration, can't be intentional) it's an extremely annoying one. Not sure if the V8/Inmotions have other, unrelated pedal behavior.
  7. I don't know which wheels they work with. Their description should tell. GyroMetrics used to be 9BMetrics, so I assume it must work with a Ninebot. Darknessbot also has a "bot" in the name. Only thing I can confirm is that Wheellog (Android) works with my ACM. edit: Looks like both iOS apps support pretty much every brand wheel:
  8. By optics, I meant all the blue mentions. Thought the forum had gone crazy first. I have no problems with your post, it is quite a funny analysis
  9. First the Flamebot picture with the bunny/rabbit statues, now this. I sense a theme here. Not sure what it is exactly - yet. Don't run it over with your wheel (does the Flamebot picture not look like a rabbit running from a wheel?) - oh wait, right, Ninebot - the bunny is faster. Nevermind Get that GT16 or 16S already male man.
  10. There are no third party apps that can change settings. You can use the old Gotway app (without online requirement) from the download section here (Android only). For day to day riding, use Darknessbot/GyroMetrics (iOS) or Wheellog (Android). They are much better, and also you can't accidentally fat finger "close all alarms" (whatever that means) or anything else.
  11. I had to do a double take when I saw the optics of this post Also, you forgot the bifurcation from your mentioning the bifurcations - very meta. Let me add another two: In-theme offtopic is a general "problem" with this forum - or maybe just how a discussion just is? Lots of valuable info hidden in threads where you wouldn't know from the title. What's it with quoting full, long posts (possibly with pictures) right in the next post after?
  12. Was the front light switching off the last thing you noticed before the fall happened? When my ACM fried, this happened and stuck to my mind (because it was a night ride, it was immediately notable the light went out). So this is how you might identify a cut-out/wheel switch-off vs simply overleaning/loss of balancing due to an unlucky bump. Does the wheel still work?
  13. My standard "nothing special happened, just riding" temperature seems to be 47°C (with summer temperatures here, but thank god not 38°C) It rarely goes above 50, but to be honest I almost never look at temperatures (in high stress situations, I watch the current directly; and watching numbers is unnecessary otherwise). The wheel will throw a temperature warning at 79°C. No need to worry about overheating with a Gotway, they can take a lot, if they even get that hot. -- Small side tip: for day to day operation, third party apps are much, much better than the official Gotway (cr)app. Yours looks like an iPhone, so Darknessbot or Gyrometrics are great alternatives (Wheellog for Android).
  14. I don't know if the Inmotion has intentional pedal dipping in curves, but that stuff is highly counterproductive. Everything's good, until suddenly the wheel says "fuck you" and goes crazy. I still can't do curves confidently just because the dipping (before I got rid of it) stopped me from trying more and is still on my mind because I learned curves the wrong way. See if you can get rid of it, it's really extremely counterproductive and you don't want to learn wrongly and then that crap sticks (like for me). If it's like on the Gotways, doing a recalibration where the wheel is exactly vertical in all directions (sideways!) might get rid of the dipping (as @KingSong69 already mentioned).
  15. @WARPed1701D Cool. "Something got wired up overnight" Yep that's exactly what happens when learning. Next day, you did nothing but are much better. Also you're pretty good with holding a phone and even panning down That is hard and distracting, especially for a new rider. You're showing the problem you're in the process of solving