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About Zenko

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  1. Gotway Tesla vs KS16S?

    If number one GotWay fan is still not dead yet, it can't be that bad And I'm well aware they improved many things with the Tesla, not only driving sensation and performance, but intern architecture & components. Overall that wheel is clearly an outstanding progress as time will confirm the durability of the model. I just wish a fix in their quality process because that's something they don't really care ATM, and block me from buying GW now.
  2. Gotway Tesla vs KS16S?

    No analysis done yet, but from what we've seen, it's not over charge cut-off, the wheel would have bip out and warn the guy, the "bump" seems none existent... We already know Tesla can overcome much bigger impact than that. It looks like a cut-off, probably from a failure, something burnt or the choc ripped of something. Only data I know is that they "change" the "left shell" of the wheel to fix it, I don't really get the fix, but that's what I heard for now.
  3. Gotway Tesla vs KS16S?

    And i said that with my GW, wow. Well it was the only wheel i could get at that time :'( Plz don't bash !
  4. Gotway Tesla vs KS16S?

    I hope you don't die buddy ! As much as I like @Marty Backe intervention, I must say that GW has a huge record for cut-off... Dude you have even been caught on camera, remember the oscillation cut-out ? Well, I saw that. Even today, Tesla get some cut-out videos, from unknown reasons, design failures, and you can't say yet this wheel is reliable. No one is dead yet from EUC, but we're getting in the speed when it's getting easier to die from a simple fall. I've seen a case of huge hospitalization because of a fall. You might not worry to much about design failures for previous GW models, but still have to worry about quality failure, that's why every cautious GW rider has to open it up and check if everything is alright. Now with Tesla, you need to worry about quality failures AND design failures, since this new model gets to new land (big W motor, motherboard confinement with vent...). Be a cautious DIY like @Marty Backe and you will probably not have troubles doing the right checks, but if you're not into getting you hands dirty, i would highly advise to go for a KS brand for now. I respect Tesla buyers as they stay aware of this, I even own a GW ACM16, but facts for now make GW less reliable than recent KS models, that's a fact, even if pilot's behavior make it 95% of falls & accidents. I just don't want to be in the 5% lot. Good ride !
  5. Hello @EcoDrift, first, thanks for your review very detailed and that confirmed what I feel about the market right now. I hope you don't mind that i shared your topic for information I also think quality prime over other aspects ! It is nice to see a reseller that as such high standards, in France we don't even have that much transparency, and this is sad. Why do you still sell GOTWAY with the evidences you're showing ? Is it still worth despite having lots of repair services ? Also, is not possible to reinforce security over GOTWAY wheels ? Do you check cables, motherboard, for every wheel ? I was thinking, do prevention of poor quality can be done for those wheels ?
  6. New KingSong 18L?

    1036* & 1600wh ? Quite big if you think about it.
  7. 18L Group Buy?

    Count me in. If there's a private party for a KS18L group buy, I want to be part of it. Just worried about shipping details, responsibility, etc. but if we got enough guys, this can be a nice opportunity. 1600wh obv choice, gotta feed the little beast. That's the philosophy, so +1 with me to the current count. Did I say I wish to be part of the Group Buy ? I think i did no ?
  8. I rode the Pulse Glider

    I'm following this project and find it very interesting indeed. When there are technical and business challenges ahead, i just hope he's not gonna kill himself with his crazy little monster and so few protections on...
  9. Goin down a hill with a wheel

    Wow i wrote that, my bad, was probably tired at this time. Should be more simple statement like "wheel is pulled by some force and try to hold it" I did not understand half of your following statements, as I'm not really that familiar with electric stuff. I'll read again with a clear mind, again, tired a little bit right now. One of them used to take a small descent many times, like 5 times in a row, around 5 meters, and checked the effect, concluding he charged around 1/2% of his battery with this. I don't really know the details, but that's how he made some assumptions saying i could charge 20% of my battery with my road. What i'm sure of is that tomorrow, i'm going with a 60% battery, and i'll see what i'll get at the end, with a soft ride (10-15km/h). Doing that consistently will clearly tell me how much i generate at which speed ! (yeah yeah i know, and the weight, the wind, blablabla). Thanks for your answer !
  10. Goin down a hill with a wheel

    When wheel push you => power consumption When wheel is rolling down => generate energy So when I brake in descent, I generate energy, I get back my battery full. Therefore warning bips start coming precisely at this time. I don't really know why, but you're theory and statement is wrong (got bashed in french forum for it). Hard braking does not generate lots of power, somehow.... A small acceleration in descent need waaay more power than a hard braking (i would say somewhere around 2 times more power needed). Also, there's a fact that energy gained from recharging might be reclaimed specifically when i brake. Overall, I did not had overcharge warning at 91% battery in this specific situation, but the descent i take might be able to generate enough energy to make my battery full before i end the downhill, making me close to overcharging. It would not be surprising to get a full battery even with less that 90% if I roll good enough. Unfortunately i did it in real time and didn't activate the log file record... silly me. I'll try to do that. I heard a lot about this balance cells thing, it didn't really meet a real consensus that it's bad to not fully charge the wheel from time to time no ? Is there more information / facts about it to confirm what you say ? Like a topic or article or review... Only fact i'm sure of is to try to keep the battery over 30% as much as possible.
  11. Goin down a hill with a wheel

    My small report with wheelog - Temperature - Even when i climbed last night, I didnt got more than around 41 °C. Nothing to say here. Power motor - When I fully brake at around 15km/h (I didnt wanted to try much more), it doesn't use that much power, good news, I can brake hard downhill (it can't compete with acceleration consommation). Current - wheelog is a mess with this, can't really make any statement, it measure upside down it seems... because it's constantly stuck around 64/67 (not sure anymore exactly). When I look into the graph, I see some huge spikes even one got to 70A, not really sure if it's possible ._. I did mess it a bit by accelerating braking hard all the way down the hill... But the high current is probably due to acceleration, not braking... So... finally checking battery, starting around 91%, even when i go rather slow, it's getting near 95-96%, guess I don't really need to look somewhere else ! And this close the deal, thanks Marty. I remember now that distinct 3 short beeps. What's funny is that it's been nearly a year that I climb down a hill daily to go to work, I had these annoying bips worrying me at the beginning, i just went easier on it, going slower, and never had any trouble, so I thought "damn, probably power saturation when i brake or some shit, better be cautious now." Well, well, well... Thank you everybody ! @KingSong69@Marty Backe@meepmeepmayer@WARPed1701D It's time for me to invest in a charge doctor, and go like a mad man on descent to not recharge too much ! I'll still continue to do some check up But constant speed isn't going to charge even more battery ? so when i finally need to brake, it's gonna be even more close to a cut off ? Carving is my second life saver for it, that's for sure (I like carve-braking, I find it more efficient than straight classic brake).
  12. Goin down a hill with a wheel

    @KingSong69 but why would that happen only when i brake ? shouldn't it happen when i peak optimal speed for recovery ? like going fast at 20km/h ? It really only happens when i start braking.
  13. Goin down a hill with a wheel

    But it isn't a classic "tiltback", trying to slow me down, it's like the pedals getting soft and braking power fade out (Feel like if it try to brake more, my pedals will just be verticals without braking that much). I know my description isn't really clear...
  14. Goin down a hill with a wheel

    @meepmeepmayer hmm yes description does not sound good, but I wasn't really that much worried, that could be a bit of plastic shell getting on it. But i'll also check that, specially if high temperatures are reported on app. What's the average temperature i should get on this wheel ?
  15. Goin down a hill with a wheel

    I would said something like 90 kg stuffed on it. Gotway 80% alarms is just a bip, never had a tilt back (at least high speed). But in a slope, i don't really know, it feel strange, like it start behaving reaaally soft. I think i heard something about an alarm for high temperatures too. That could be also an issue here. For the record : I had trouble with my wire connection (oh hello quality), starting to melt my plastic shell, so i was worried and send back my wheel for inspection. Got my wheel back with new welding for wires, because the ACM & MS3 wires welding is crap quality (and sometimes just awful). They told me it was badly done, so resistance was producing heat at this specific point. Too bad now, i know it's still burning up good, specially in hill climbing, but i guess it's something you can't really avoid. At least shell doesn't melt anymore, and i go easy on it for hill climbing (and i i'm not worried about a sudden cut off/ blown up wire connec tion, it should still handle the heat). But i recently checked the inside, and feel the wires are really worn out, like they've been used for years (a bit of a dark yellow color), when it's not even 1 year. Battery isn't a problem i think, i didn't feel any change, i'll confirm with an app review. Maybe LEDs give false information, but it's really unlikely. Yes sir, i'll do that !