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Mono last won the day on February 28

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About Mono

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  1. Teaching the wife

    That's kind-of key. Without solid motivation it's hard to see anybody learning to ride an EUC.
  2. No. You can jump (if you can), but you don't have to. It helps to mentally anticipate the up-path of the wheel and follow this path with the feet. It helps a lot to have a long curb with slowly increasing height for practicing. I also found that it is sufficient to practice heights that I already can climb. Just improving on these steps up the height I can actually go. That means you either have to jump or cut the shell. I cut the front part of the shell of my Gotway to only cover half the wheel diameter including tire (roughly 9" in this case). There is not much of a chance to climb higher curbs than this.
  3. Somewhat surprising that EUCs can do without a weight sensor, whereas apparently two-wheeled self-balancer need one.
  4. http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/7737-how-bad-were-you-hurt/
  5. High tire pressure makes the wheel more nervous on tilting input. But if one could actually balance on a large contact patch, one should be able to put up the wheel or a bicycle on a poorly inflated tire upright. One can't unless it stands on the rim. Low tire pressure makes twisting more difficult, which means requiring more force for balancing.
  6. Tesla Pedal Modes

    Wobbling is notoriously difficult to address systematically, but there is not much to worry as it will very likely go eventually away with time. Otherwise +1 to all the above: more (most) weight on the heel (i.e. foot more to the front), only touch the sides, no gripping needed, try to get relaxed and all will become good.
  7. Right, the safe alternative is to let the hands keep touching each other, or to grap two fingers of one hand with the other hand while riding. Riding on various loose grounds like this also helps a lot to "understand" and utilise the wheel to its best.
  8. Ninebot One Z : Z6-Z8-Z10

    You would not have needed to go that far, could have had this eureka moment also reading this forum
  9. Yes, both legs. It's not overly important to be able to mount with both legs. But if you can, you are likely to have better control over the wheel in other situations as well. In my experience, practicing the weak side can also improve the abilities on the stronger side. It can also lead to new insights how to do the same move in a different way.
  10. Gotway Tesla Impressions and Diary

    Not at all a bold prediction to make, IMHO. Not only true on snow or ice but on any slippery ground.
  11. The "lock" is extremely useful, but not necessary to ride, as long as you manage to mount in one way or another.
  12. +1, it also prevents the wheel from hitting you. Note that you need to deactivate the kill switch under the handle bar via the app while using a learning belt. BTW, I didn't any of those on the list but had to protect my inner lower leg with hard shin pads to be able to learn at all. Otherwise the pain quickly prevented me from mounting.

    I haven't seen any violence in this case though, none at all. Or maybe you use the word in a different meaning. Equating violence against people with "violence" against material is a non-starter for any ethical considerations, IMHO. In this case the damage was possibly only even a side effect and not the indended purpose. It was even hard to see any damage of the hood on camera under very close inspection, because of the sun gave too much light.
  14. Now I wonder whether I should complement the list with some hints on how to acquire these...
  15. I started to compile a list of riding skills that I myself found somewhat relevant for safety. I have been practicing all of these (and many more which didn't make it to this list because I do not deem them relevant enough for riding safety). The bad news: lack of riding skills is IMHO not the most important safety concern. The greatest safety hazards as far as I see it are speed (in combination with potholes, hidden corners, the natural power limits of EUCs, etc.), overconfidence, lack of knowledge of EUCs capabilities, fast moving heavy objects like cars, and complacency. Now let's go to the meat, a listing of relevant skills with a few tips: Beginners: a learning belt is of good use to prevent the wheel from running away hitting and getting between the legs after hopping off getting lots of scratches (not a safety concern though) relax, remain upright, look ahead (not down), avoid to fully straighten the knees avoid using the arms for balancing, instead twist the wheel left-right to balance and use the feet to control the wheel important: be always mentally prepared to hop off when hopping off, focus to stay away from the wheel. The wheel may hit your legs and this hurts and can lead to (usually minor) injuries or it can be a stumbling block to fall over learn to brake Intermediate, learn and/or practice to: brake hard, I haven't yet stopped to practice emergency braking almost every day minimise arm movements and let the feet do all the control of the wheel and balancing instead; this means to give leverage to use arms in a critical situation when they may be really needed be mentally prepared to run off and away from the wheel (without a learning belt) avoiding to let the wheel hit you or get into the way between the feet after separation; I am not exactly sure how to practice this intentionally, but I usually lose the wheel a few times during a single play-around session (on loose ground), which gives practice in a relaxed setup put, at the same time, almost all weight to the tip (the ball) of one foot and to the heel of the other foot; it is not too difficult to even lift one heel and the opposite front foot at the same time; this is a first step to freely position the feet on the pedals while standing with one leg on the ground, "lock" the wheel with the other leg; in this position, move the wheel anywhere around with the loose leg, also further away from the supporting leg thereby spreading the legs and distributing weight to both legs keep the upper body vertical; lean forward (and backward) by bending the knees (and moving the hips slightly forward and less slightly backward), not by leaning the upper body most important: keep the knees soft; soft knees are our suspension and allow to negotiate anything unexpected on the ground (bumps, holes, slippery spots) and go over curbs of 3-4" relatively easily (depending on wheel size); I manage 5" curbs on a 16" wheel with this technique. Keeping the knees soft enough needs quite some practicing, unfortunately. go over speed bumps with soft knees such that the upper body doesn't move vertically at all; fixate a point with your eyes to know whether your head has moved most important: acquire the reflex to bent the knees in any critical situation; many if not most critical situations can be saved this way; when separating from the wheel, the body should always be low enough that the heels of the feet can touch the ground instantaneously; flying in the air means giving up almost all control over the further course of events, being closer to the ground means to have a larger area available where to firmly place the next foot turn the head into any possible direction, include up, and keep it there for a couple of seconds; look anywhere, including and in particular behind or nowhere (closed eyes) Advanced, learn and/or practice to: dismount effortlessly and smoothly (with bent knees); ideally, the mental effort to dismount is small enough to never be tempted to hold onto something for dismount avoidance; consider one foot on the ground as part of the natural riding process fully relax the arms; like when walking, the aim is, for example, to be able to effortlessly take sunglasses out of their case and put them on while riding ride on any surface you can get hold off, the more slippery or the softer the better (start slowly!), search for longitudinal grooves to ride over, and keep the arms relaxed brake hard on a downhill slope move/position the feet freely on the pedal while riding while driving moderately slowly, touch the ground with one foot also putting weight on the ground foot; the ground leg must always stay away from the wheel to not clip the leg with the pedal; keep the body low enough such that the heel can reach the ground; easier to begin while riding a curve ride down stairways; when on stairs keep ground contact as long as possible, think of each stair as a bump, think of skiing mogul, apply a (slightly) tighter grip on the shell as usual; start with 2 stairs, then 3... turn the hip, like for sitting down to the side; mastering this move gives more leverage to look anywhere around and behind and to take tight turns riding backwards, at least a little. Start by moving one inch backwards after braking to a full stop and increase the distance gradually. I always practice both sides, left and right, when applicable. Of course many of these could in principle be combined, showing that the movements have become automised. Many combinations I am not capable of doing (I can't climb a larger curb with closed eyes or run off the wheel while putting on the sunglasses Based on my experience and on reports of many others, clipping a curb or a wall or anything on the ground with the pedal or the foot is one of the main reasons for unexpected falls of more experienced riders. I started to experiment practicing this situation, but can't say for the moment whether this is likely to be of any help.