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Chriull

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Chriull last won the day on June 4 2017

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About Chriull

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  1. The Food Thread

    This will be my first self grilled piece of meat this season - nothing (but a bit of salt and pepper) will touch it that could distort the taste! But your hollandaise trials brought the sauce bernaise (in principle hollandaise with chervil and tarragon) into my mind again and made me doing some research. So i found sauce foyot (basically sauce bernaise with (almost) gravy)! I'm looking forward to all this new mixtures - your hollandaise/miso paste mixture too! But i'm with @The Fat Unicyclist - selfmade rules!
  2. New Inmotion V10 (V8 Fast)

    The 84*30 = 2520W should be enough for the announced 2000W nominal. But just not too much room for peak power.... Regarding the 30A having to pass all the internal resistances (battery, mosfets, coils) the announced 2kW could also be quite the peak power? Or the fuse is very very very slow-blow/time lag.
  3. The Food Thread

    I also don't like steaks sous vide (with final searing of course: ) . Imho they tend to get a bit "mushy/spongy". But pieces like brisket, etc are gorgeous after sous vide and some hell fire to finish
  4. The Food Thread

    Two kilo pieces waiting for the weekend
  5. In some cases the BMS if the 9bot e+ cut off, but normally its just pushing the "weak" motor/battery to its limits. Never heard of a gotway "cut off feature" - just if one leans the wheel too much to the side? Do you mean reaching the motor/battery limit again? That only can be pushed to higher speeds/loads with stronger motors/batteries.
  6. KS14D performance on hills

    Full throttle at high speed is in most cases very near to or a real faceplant... But going up a hill fast does not mean that there is more stress on the motor/battery/electronics than going up the hill slowly! Both cases need the exact same energy to go up. For simplicity asume "fast" is twice the speed of "slow". So going up "slow" takes some power p over some time t to go up (Energy needed slow = p x t ). Going up "fast" takes half the time and needs double the power. So Energy needed fast = 2 x p x t / 2 = Energy needed slow. The power the electric motor produces is motor voltage x motor current. The motor voltage is proportional to speed. So for the fast case with twice the power p at double speed s (double motor voltage) the same current is needed as for the slow case with power p and speed s. "Stress" for the motor/battery/wires and electronics is determined solely by the current. So going up the hill twice as fast gives the same stress for just half the time as going up slow! So this means going up a hill twice as fast is half the stress for the wheel! Only downside of this is that one comes nearer to faceplanting (high load with high speed -> faceplant)... ;( That's about one of the first things i learnt watching my brother (thanks again! ) taking up speed before an incline (as one intuitively does with an bicycle) is a bad idea, as he imideately hit the ground on the incline as the wheel ran out of torque... Also its hard to get up a hill fast - requires quite some leaning forward and the toetips tend to dig into the ground... ;( With the losses (motor, battery, air drag) the reality is not as "easy" (double the speed needs some more than the same current), but imho accurate enough for a first "sum up" - so for more details one can read the two topics: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/7549-current-demand-versus-battery-voltage/ and http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/7855-anatomy-of-an-overlean/ No. Absolutely not! at 18.6001 the wheel is tilting back or about to start to do so. (If this 18.6 mph is the max tilt-back speed set with the app). Here in Europe the KS14D is sold with a max speed and presumably max tilt back speed of 30km/h which are 18,6411 mph - so we Europeans would faceplant all the time? With the KS16B the top speed is advertised with 30 km/h and that was my safe cruising speed on flat terrain! (As long as the firmware did not restrict the max speed due to low batteries...) I always (*) had my alarm and tiltback at 30 km/h, now with the KS16S at 35 km/h. As one sees in the second link above there is still enough reserve! I'd assume that the figures are something like this too for the KS14D - also i don't have any data for this wheel... ;( And as one also sees in this link the wheel can easily overlean("cut out") below this max speed too, if pushed hard enough. +1. Also if one could run this speed - overleans/"cut outs" often come by surprise and one can be happy if one has at least some reactions like lifting the hand to protect the face... (*) after some familiarisation to the speed and the wheel coming from a 9bot e+
  7. Advice on first wheel

    Then i'll add loose connection to my previous guesswork. Maybe also a cable is jammed somewhere in the shell or got offended...
  8. Advice on first wheel

    Seems like a bad led stripe/bad controller. Theoretically it could also be the firmware reporting some failure - but i did not read anything about such a thing by now...
  9. Kingsong new app bugs

    I don't know if i remember right, but that was imho a prob of the old (playstore) version. This was imho repaired by @palachzzz and linked here in the forum?
  10. Ask Me Any Inmotion V10F Questions

    For well designed electronics fuses are nothing bad - just an additional safety measure. Hardware failures can and will always happen - there is no 100% quality control possible. Especially in consumer products. Also cpu/firmware "hickups" (by emc,...) can happen... With the energy of the liion accu packs i'm quite happy about fuses in Wheels! Just the earlier ks16 (imho KS16B had the prob that a capacitor leg had the tendency to break which lead to blown fuses once higher loads happened. I can't really remember hearing other reports of blown fuses beside this ks design prob? Anyhow - quite certainly the electronics would be bricked very shortly after the fuse blows. So it is at least neutral for us drivers. So if the V10 is fused and the fuse should blow while @Marty Backe goes up the hill inmotion has the chance to do some forensics and improve the design.
  11. KS14D performance on hills

    @Sobaka i iregularily drove up steeper inclines like this with the 9bot e+, having a bit more weight and having ~7km before on flat ground. I don't know the ks14d personally, but i would not see any problem.
  12. KingSong Wheels Never Cause Faceplants - right?

    I just know from fuses in KS. Ninebot One E+ definitely had none. Maybe some old GW? The actual GW have none.
  13. German Discussion Group

    Hast du schon @meepmeepmayer's Vorschlag ausprobiert? Laden lassen? Was zeigen die batterien dann an? Beide wieder auf 100%? Welche Spannung? Lädst du immer voll und lässt das Ladegerät noch eine Zeitlang drann? Ps.: Wenn du vollständig ladest wie sind die batteriespannung direkt nach dem abhängen und ein paar stunden danach (wheel ganze Zeit ausgeschaltet)?
  14. 16S Battery Level Variance

    Ups, yes - i did not read the original post from @Zanonicarefully enough. I took the % values as variation from the voltage and not as the capacity % shown in the app... With 66V being 100% and 50V being 0% (taken from wheellog source code - should hopefully be more or less what the kingsong app shows, too) my 1V change while pushing the wheel with the hand should be about 6% capactity change (100/(66-50) * 1). So about the same as your readings from the app, @Zanoni - just normal voltage drop by the load applied. Maybe for your understanding, how the charge percentage is calculated by the kingsong (and wheellog, darknesbot, ...) app: It is directly calculated from the battery voltage! Like written above, for 50V it shows 0, for 66V and above 100% and inbetween just a linear interpolation. charge % = (battery_voltage-50)*100/(66-50). So the charge percentage shown is only about right, if one lets the batteries rest for a couple of hours! Everytime there is any load on the batteries they show something lower than the real capacity left: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_state_of_charge "The most blatant error of the voltage-based SoC occurs when disturbing a battery with a charge or discharge. The resulting agitation distorts the voltage and it no longer represents a correct SoC reference. To get accurate readings, the battery needs to rest in the open circuit state for at least four hours; battery manufacturers recommend 24 hours for lead acid. This makes the voltage-based SoC method impractical for a battery in active duty."
  15. 16S Battery Level Variance

    @Zanoni i just did a quick test with my KS16S - pushing it by hand forward and back i got the voltage varying between 58,8 and 59,8. So +/-0,5V of ~59V makes a bit less than +/-1% variation or ~2% total. The main reason for this voltage jumps should be the internal resistance of the batteries - by changing load (current) the output voltage of the batteries changes. Additionaly one has resistances by the connectors, soldering joints, wires and protection mosfets in the BMS - but these values should be quite lower than the internal battery resistance. (very roughly <10%) Temperature, charge state (%) and (quite) previous load situations inflict the internal resistance of the batteries. You have about a bit more than twice the voltage variation? Reasons for this could be: - that you pushed your wheel just a bit more than twice as hard than i did. Double load -> double current -> double voltage drop. - ?your batteries where already quite empty and had by this higher changes? - the batteries were quite cold - KS used other batteries in your wheel with higher resistance/the same batteries of the new batches have higher resistances. - Some connections/etc in your wheel are bad and have a way to high resistance - Normaly they should be roughly below 10% of the battery internal resistance. - There also could be interferences at your controll board, so the measured voltages not only show the real voltage but +/- some distortion? - or any combination of points above (plus some points that did not came into my mind by now...) You also have the 828Wh model? Do there exist models with lower capacities? If so lower capacities (less battery cells in parallel) have a higher internal resistance and lead to more voltage variation. If the wheel is turned off it is normal that the battery cells revover - my last log stopped with 58,1V and now when i turned the wheel on it showed 59,44V. So a raise in voltage of ~2%. They raise more, the higher the load was before turning off and there is presumably also some influence by the overall charge state (%) and presumably also by temperature changes.
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