Noillek

Full Members
  • Content count

    118
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

113 Excellent

2 Followers

About Noillek

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/15/1980

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    Running, Motorbikes, EUC's and traveling

Recent Profile Visitors

374 profile views
  1. Hi ILya, looking forward to try the unlock to the V8... when is the update coming to the App Store? Thanks
  2. It clamps well, moves slightly but doesn't fall off, since I have all wrapped with American tape it stays very snug. And if needed more stability I can just tension belt around and that will do the trick. I prefer that gets out easy in case of a fall, the connectors work well for this purpose as well.
  3. I manage to go for a long ride nd it turned out that I'm still far from my main objective... 100km at 30km/h average if I would replicate what I have with the 1600wh MSuper version and add 2P to the group as battery pack it should be possible meaning that we would be looking at a +2000wh machine. Here are my stats, 88km ride, avg. moving 26km/h, took 3h54m including stops... started above 30km/h but was dropping battery too quick, so needed to reduce speed along the ride. Once again like to see the stats from the CD but I don't think is very accurate, turned off again before full and after that still took 1h with original charger. Only showed 1146Wh replenished battery... total capacity is 1672Wh... where are those 526Wh? Can it be that 1h charging with the original topped that up?
  4. Kept improving the extra battery pack, and this is how is looking now... found a few problems that I'm still experimenting with. 1) to be able to still use the seat. Solution was to reposition the bms to the side of the battery pack and reduce the padding so I could have a flat base to seat well the cover that I created and use some foam on the top. Feels sturdier than before also a bit lower but not so stable as the original seat. 2) BMS had the B- and C- welding loose event after spending allot of time welding and rewelding still feels that it doesn't hold well, any tips are appreciated. I'm planning to test this Sunday on a +70km ride... 80kg rider+gear, flat ride, 3.5bar tire pressure, avg. speed 30/35 km/h, forecast 20C and no wind. Last time that did same route with original 1300Wh took me 3h30m at an avg. speed 21km/h with similar conditions and setup. Arrived with 30% battery left. Main goal is to be able to do 100km with an average speed of 30km/h and 20% battery left.
  5. Hi @meepmeepmayer found the issue, i'm charging with a parallel 2xcharger and i got one charger with green light while the other one, that i didnt saw was still red, but as soon one turned green the charge doctor gave the full charged message. a bit weird and difficult to explain... solution i charged everything with a single charger... and got the 84v across all packs. For me this was just an experiment and managed to get 20S2P pack (40 Panasonic 2900mah cells) that should grant me additional 418wh together with the standard 1253wh (officia) i will have a total of 1671Wh, advantage is since is 2 more parallel i should keep higher current margin available, can have Cmax 80A... although the engine shouldnt handle more than 45A... just gives a nice buffer to have all this power available. 1st Tests runs very well, but i only tried going fast fro a long time... 26km round at approx. 40km/h and arrived back home with still 60% battery. I guess that for long range i should get real 100km at 25/30 km/h average.
  6. I don't have a spot welder, and spending 200Eurs for an experiment is a bit too much... i guess that in case i will upgrade or create a new battery pack it might be worth the investment. If it was today i would definitely make the investment and weld it... didn't got fan of the vruzend kit. I might try to reduce the height of the extra battery pack by cutting the seat to lower it and remove some of the padding that i used to wrap the battery pack. hopefuly i get a more graceful add-on Thank you @KingSong69
  7. Thank you guys, mystery solved... nothing wrong with BMS or batteries... it was the charger, it seems that i like to plug things in parallel, by connecting 2 chargers in parallel to be quicker the charge as soon as current gets below 1,5A one of the chargers gives the green light, while the other one keeps pushing current into the batteries... if you use the Charge doctor, it will immediately give you the message that is full as soon as one of the chargers turns green. Solved charged the batteries plugged in parallel with just the original charger and tchatcham... 84v everywhere Went for a few rides this weekend... and there's an amazing improvement, 26km round in a more or less stable speed between 38/42km/h and got home with 60% battery still. Yesterday spend around 15% to do 15km at cruising speeds of 38km/h and below 50% battery... no bips or tilt backs during both rides, already charged twice and no problem . It doesn't look pretty and i also don't feel confortable to seat on it... I'm afraid to damage the battery pack (although i build in a way that i can seat). I can unplug everything easily and remove the seat+Battery pack (attached to each other).
  8. Thank you Keith, i charge my wheels always at 100% and rarely use the charge doctor, i use it this time to make sure that i could have both pack with same voltage. I will charge everything again with the stock charger and see if everything goes well, indeed if there's a resistance issue with one of the connections that might be the problem. Will keep investigating, and keep you all informed.
  9. Thank you @KingSong69, i did measure directly the pack and individual cells... pack was 70.4V and individual cells were 3.52v... which matches correctly. After assembling everything i connected a charge doctor setup to cut off at 84.4v and after reached this amount charger light was green and when i measured again the battery directly i got only 76V. even when i connected to the original pack there were no sparks or anything it was all fine. but again measuring the full pack with the 3 connected the voltage was at 81v. The original were at 83.3v and the extra was at 76v... so i gues that they leveled to 81v. But im curious to understand more details. Today i will charge all of them together and i will be there to measure everything and see if i get the correct voltage as 100% charged... after that will go for a ride and check autonomy (approx. range should be now real 100km at and avg speed of 30/35 km/h).
  10. looks super cool... mine doesn't light, I'm not even sure if my BMS is correctly setup... as i'm not getting 84V from the pack just 76v, guess that the bms is not adjusted for 84v? (wild guess). I got a 20S2P of original batteries so is an extra 418Wh, if i manage to weld them i will try to fit inside of the shell but for now goes on top of the seat. Thanks Hansolo
  11. Interesting... i just finish to install an extra battery pack on my V3S 1300Wh 84V and i found something very interesting, yesterday while charging the extra pack 20S, same as original battery (2900mah panasonic), using charge doctor (setup to cut off at 84.4V) stopped charging at the cut off and when i measured i got only 76V... when measuring the original batteries I had 83.3V... dont understand what is going on, but i need to run a few more tests, but in none of the cases the charge doctor, matched the battery voltage.
  12. Hi all, Just to keep you updated, there are still some mysteries in my project by i decided to go ahead and finalize it. 1) Battery pack was a struggle to get all cells connected with this Vruzend Kit... next one i will definetly try welding instead, BMS was pretty straight forward and easy to connect all the cables. 2) Parallel cables created to be able to easily plug the extra Battery, top connector is a XT30 for charging circuit and the bottom one is a XT60 for output for the PCB, only had 14 AWG cable so i used for everything. 3) Created as well an adapter to charge the battery extra pack separately from the original batteries, only needed if the pack is not connected to the wheel, so it minimizes the risk of sparks and fireworks.Charging so i can have same tension and connect all cables safely. 4) Last part was to get all cables connected and make sure that i have tension everywhere. Next challenge is to secure well and nicely the extra pack, ideally allowing me to still use the seat... more to come on this one. Before i will still take it for a test drive even if ugly Thank you all for the tips and advises, will keep posting while this experiment develops.
  13. Just found an image of the Gotway battery packs... it seems that theres an additional set of wire to balance both battery packs... do you know where are they connected in the BMS? Also i order a BMS from aliexpress and it hasnt been shipped yet... does anyone knows where can i get a good 20S BMS >20A, in europe? Thank you
  14. Thank you Kingsong69, i guest that i need to change the charging cables then from the original batteries... since they will need to deal with allot higher current. Thank you Chriull, i guess that there must be a safe way to do this... i will research a bit more and see what can be done safely. The goal is to touch the least possible on the original setup.
  15. I did a drawing of what my plan was... but just found out that the GX16 4pin can only handle 5 amps... drawing is still valid but need to change the connectors to XT30 for charging and XT60 for power output to the pcb. i still want to remove the battery pack to upgrade and or maintenance. Thanks