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Everything posted by esaj

  1. This has been my experience also, with sneakers, it becomes painful relatively fast, with hiking boots (and proper foot positioning) it feels almost if I could go on forever... But even with hiking boots, if I have bad foot position, I have to stop sooner or later. I usually do adjust my feet a bit here and there during rides though. It seems the season is pretty much over here. The temperature hit freezing point tonight.
  2. What about firewheel?

    If you're light enough to get 15km with the 264Wh battery, the F260 could be enough, but you'd have to charge it at the office. On a full battery I could get 20-25km with it, depending on riding conditions and style, but I'm lightweight and that's still not enough for 30km roundtrip. Personally I liked the FW, but the lack of warnings (only audio, that's easily missed with wind in your ears) and the wheel shutting down at high speed (28+km/h), I can't really recommend it. Mine had some sort of BMS-to-mainboard -communication, and it didn't shutdown with a shunted battery above 30km/h, but a shunted pack can be quite a big fire hazard Later mainboard models no longer had the wiring, don't know if those shut down at higher speeds. Mine's broken down (fried the mainboard, at first I hoped it was just the step-down power stage but the entire MPU's gone) and I haven't been planning to try to fix it anymore, but it broke down during battery replacement, not during riding. The shells are a pain to work with, the entire shells have to be taken apart to get access to anything, and the worst part is trying to get them closed again without pinching any wires or something rubbing against the tire. Most modern wheels are so much better in that, with separate inner and outer shells. @dmethvin's been riding his for a couple of years, he also had one fried board before, but has used the current one for thousands of kilometers without issues, I think. Against Airwheel (any model), Firewheel wins hands down in my books. If you can get something like a newer KS or Gotway for the same money, then it's a different matter. Likely you'll want at least 400Wh or more if you can't charge at your office.
  3. King Song KS-16S tire pressure?

    Joking aside, a lot of the numbers on the specs sheets seem at least "optimistic" if not questionable on all wheels, like mileage and maximum climbing grade for example. Probably at least part of the problem is that the actual values are highly dependent on things like rider weight, current speed, battery state, ambient temperature etc. It's just easier to plot down something "general", although I have my doubts if for example a KS16S actually could handle 30 degree uphill acceleration with 150kg load or go 75km on charge with a heavy rider And since many of the potential buyers aren't engineers or such, putting graphs of something like acceleration vs speed vs weight vs grade vs... on the sheets would just confuse people. In the end, I guess those are more just "marketing material" rather than actual technical datasheets...
  4. King Song KS-16S tire pressure?

    http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Stetson-Harrison method
  5. Laitonhan se periaatteessa on, en tiedä seuraamuksista jos jää kiinni, varmaankin vähintäänkin sakkoja, ehkä jopa pyörä takavarikkoon? Kesällä juttelin asiasta ihka oikean poliisisedän kanssa, ei ollut ennestään tuttu mutta vanhan koulukaverin isosiskon nykyinen aviomies moiseksi osoittautui, kun päädyin heidän tupareihinsa. Hänen mielipiteensä oli, että rivipoliiseja ei kiinnosta niin kauan kun vehkeillä ei perseillä, eli ei ajella väkijoukossa täysiä, aiheuteta ylimääräistä hämminkiä tai muuten vaaranneta liikennettä. Suurin osa tavallisista poliiseista ei ole edes kärryillä koko vehkeistä saatikka niitä koskevista rajoituksista. Jos käsky ei tule ylempää ja ajelet rauhallisesti/vaaraa aiheuttamatta, heillä on parempaa tekemistä, ja sakon laatiminen ei ole ihan simppeli asia (siinä pitää ilmetä tarkalleen mm. rikotut lainkohdat yms, ja jos tulee virheitä, sakko voidaan haastaa ja mitätöidä, ilmeisesti käräjäkäsittelyn kautta, mistä tulee vaan lisää päänvaivaa poliiseille). Silkasta mielenkiinnosta saattavat tulla juttelemaan jos näkevät, mutta tuskin sillä tarkoituksella, että alettaisin mitataan vehkeen nopeuksia tai ihmetellä tehoja. Näin siis ns. tavallisen poliisin kannalta, liikkuva poliisi (jota ei varsinaisesti kai enää edes ole olemassa, mutta erillisiä "liikennepoliiseja" ilmeisesti on kuitenkin laitoksittain?) saattaisi jotain "tempauksia" ehkä joskus järjestää, kuten tekevät mm. mopojen viritystarkistus -kampanjoiden kanssa, mutta en usko että sellainenkaan ihan lähiaikoina ainakaan olisi tapahtumassa, sen verta niche-vehkeitä vielä että suurin osa väestöstä tuskin tietää tai välittää niiden olemassaolosta.
  6. I regularly rode the Firewheel battery to almost empty (or even all the way to empty, meaning having to carry it the last part of the trip, which sucks with a 15kg wheel) without putting my foot down. Depending on conditions, that was 20-25km in one go. With the KS16S, I've gone over 30km without stopping, the longest rides with that has been something like 50-55km (but with stops). Still didn't manage to ride it all the way to empty, but I guess it was close some times (1-2 leds when stopping, although with slower average speeds and good conditions, I've had 3-4 leds after 50+km). Of course those rides without putting foot down are with hiking boots and on paved roads, I tried some laps with sneakers in the summer, and I had to stop every 10km or so due to foot pain, but with stiff soled shoes, I maybe could ride the S until the battery runs out. But it might be that foot fatique (rather than pain) would set in before that... also, now that it's colder, the time (rather than distance) I can ride is limited by when my legs start to shiver due to cold, I'm a bit worried how it can affect my reaction speed and control in general. Long johns help there
  7. KingSong Notice about buying EUC on Ali express

    Well, those prices do contain the VAT already (AFAIK), but it's likely higher than whatever taxes are put on the US prices... the import costs might also be higher, but I don't know. Nevertheless, clearly more expensive than US and especially Aliexpress. Still, I bought my KS16S from Europe (1RadWerkstatt), as I value their (or his, I don't know if other people than Chris work there ) service and technical expertise. Wrong, the thing is that 1RadWerkstatt calculates the watthours correctly, Chinese manufacturers round the nominal voltage up to 60V (for 16S), which causes the difference: 16 cells @ 3.7V nominal = 59.2V 59.2V * 3.5Ah = 207,2Wh Calculated with 60V, 3.5Ah pack = 210Wh Four packs of those is 828.8Wh (4 * 207.2Wh), usually marketed/sold as 840Wh (4 * 210Wh) everywhere. Same goes for other pack sizes/amounts. Firewheel went as far as selling the highest battery configuration as "779Wh", which apparently was calculated using the maximum cell voltage of 4.2V per cell, the batteries were actually 696Wh. 1Radwerkstatt also explains this in their website: To the explanation 840Wh / 828Wh: Correctly calculated from the accumulator a capacity of 828Wh, however some dealers sell it as 840Wh, because Kingsong offers it so and calculates something differently. The correct way would be: 3.7Vx16 cells x 3.5Ah x 4 packs = 828Wh, Kingsong calculates: 60V (which is simply wrong for 16 cells) x 3.5Ah x 4 Packs = 840Wh
  8. KingSong Notice about buying EUC on Ali express

    Yup, on a quick scan through the sellers, the usual price for 840Wh is between around 1520€ (1799USD on current rate) and 1750€ (2072USD), and at least the lower end prices don't seem to always contain shipping, the cost of which probably varies a bit depending where you live and where you're ordering from (but can be as much as >100€). EDIT: Likely the big culprit for the much higher price vs. US is the VAT, which varies from something like 17% to 25% or so depending on the European country. How much is US sales tax or whatever similar thing you have there? Or is there even such?
  9. KingSong Notice about buying EUC on Ali express

    KS16S / 840Wh is around 1800-1900USD in Europe... EDIT: Also, that price doesn't usually seem to contain the shipping yet.
  10. Headache

    Looking to buy a 100V+ power supply... If I want to get more into building things that work with the wheel (and power themselves from the batteries or measure the high voltages), I "need" (read: want) a good power supply that can go up high enough in voltage to match 20S batteries (84V) and above (to "simulate" possible overvoltage conditions during regenerative braking) and limit the current/voltage if things go wrong. The idea of using actual batteries for testing doesn't really appeal to me, as testing with different voltages would mean charging / discharging the packs in-between and I don't want to find out that whatever contraption I've made shorts/burns up and possibly takes the battery BMS, cells and the house with it So far, the model I've had in mind has been HP6634[A or B] (100V / 1A, 100W linear supply), but haven't found a suitably cheap unit: Most of the cheaper units (around 200+€ + shipping) in eBay seem to be either in the USA or Israel, which would mean having to pay import taxes + VAT, which pushes the price of unit + shipping up a good ~30%. And the shipping from US is usually >100€ alone. There were two auctions in the German eBay with the rack-mounting brackets from the same seller, which ended about an hour ago, last I checked the prices were something like 71€ and 81€ (+ shipping), but the seller had marked that he won't ship internationally, so I didn't bid. Maybe I should have Not sure if the seller actually sells them at that price, compared to the "usual" prices, those seemed really cheap. Another option I've found is TDK-Lambda GEN100-15 (100V / 15A, 1500W switching mode supply stuffed into a 1U case), at least the output power wouldn't be an issue though, and a new one would be around 450€ + shipping and used for about 340€ + shipping, but it would be a bit of a compromise, as it's already a bit pricy (well, not really when talking quality rack power supplies) and doesn't have numeric keypad on the front panel for programming the values, that I like so much on the HP's: Also I don't think switchers can also act also as electronic loads in general, the linear HP663X's can do that, but it's not a strict requirement. If anyone knows a place selling second-hand rack power supplies with reasonable prices, please point me there So far I've found at least places like Rosenkranz ( http://www.rosenkranz-elektronik.de ) and http://www.used-line.com (through which I've found even more European companies selling used/refurbished units, but nothing really cheap so far). The prices for companies selling second-hand lab equipment are of course usually slightly higher than internet auctions, because they make their money by buying used equipment and selling it forwards, but then again, they also usually test (and maybe even calibrate) the devices, maybe even give a short warranty. Not really in a rush, as I've got my hands full with other stuff right now, but I'll keep looking. Also if anyone knows other good robust options from other reputable manufacturers (like HP/Agilent/Keysight, Lambda, Keithley, Tektronix etc.), please let me know. Basically my requirements are: 100V or more max output voltage (DC), linear or switching, adjustable 100W or more Must work with 230V / 50Hz mains (single phase) Constant current and constant voltage modes, automatic changing 19" rack mounting Must be adjustable from the front panel, preferably by a keypad, but knobs are ok too USB/RS-xxx/GPIB/whatever control is a plus, but not necessary One output is enough, more is a plus but not necessary I'd like all that in fully working condition for about 200-250€ max, maybe 300-350 with shipping, preferably less and inside EU (so I don't have to pay import costs / VAT ). Finding high quality power supplies for cheap might be a bit much, but one can dream... I did buy that fully working HP6632A (20V / 5A, 100W) for 130€ including shipping though, so it's not entirely impossible. But like said, I'm not in a rush either, maybe I'll find one in some auction later on...
  11. Headache

    Just spent a couple of hours on and off trying to find what's wrong with my half-bridges... My head hurts, but I finally found 2 missing wires and one misplaced resistor in total, that caused the 2nd bridge high-side not to open. Oscilloscope and signal generator would be nice, had to go with nothing but cheap multimeter and 555-timer circuit to produce 25kHz square(ish) PWM. Yeah, nobody probably cares, but I just had to vent a bit Now, I still need to build a 3rd similar half-bridge before I can try to drive a motor...
  12. Gloves that fit over the guards might need to be relatively large, I use thin cotton gloves under the guards (I said wool earlier, but they're cotton... it comes down to the Finnish words, wool = villa, cotton = puuvilla). Enough for slightly chilly temperatures and to block wind, but probably not when it goes closer to freezing (0C / 32F). Similar to these: Anything thicker would probably be too much to fit under the guards.
  13. Kingsong 16 S, what set up do you use?

    I started with Player Mode, but then switched to Riding Mode, as I noticed it seems to help me with accelerating up steeper inclines, and isn't too soft. Maybe I should try again with the Player Mode to see if the initial acceleration issues might have been down just to lack of experience with the new wheel.
  14. Kingsong not on Ali express anymore!

    I'm always happy to save some money, but with more expensive stuff, personally I'll get it at least inside the EU-zone, as usually after shipping, customs duties & VAT, imported goods aren't that much cheaper anymore and in case of trouble, the warranties (likely) work better in western countries But each to their own... Like Jason points out above in this thread, there are lots of costs regarding importing (not to mention rent & utilities etc, if you ran a brick&mortar -store, and probably lots of more "smaller" side-costs that come with running a business). Also, at least an European seller has to deal with much more stricter consumer protection laws, so they may sometimes have to pay for warranty repairs out of their own pocket, if the manufacturer says it's not under warranty or such, and then need to put a little bit more extra on the prices to cover for such cases, and make some profit in the way to support themselves / pay wages if they have workers etc. I seriously doubt selling wheels is a "gold mine" for any of the western sellers, despite the prices being higher than in Asia. They aren't really a "big volume" product that is being sold in large quantities, which also pushes up the price a bit (low sales -> have to charge more per wheel to make a living). When it comes to "exclusive" -deals, it's a bit different matter... that sounds like a "gray area" monopoly (aren't monopolies usually illegal, unless driven by a government? ). Like the whole InMotion/SoloWheel -deal in the US, what happens now if a US customer orders an Inmotion from China? Or if some other seller in US sells "plain" Inmotions without Solowheel -stickers? I undestand they can't sell them as "Solowheels", but the OEM is still Inmotion...
  15. Ouch. Nice paperweight!

    We've been over this before, again wrong way around... the spark occurs BECAUSE the MB capacitors are discharged. Were they charged to the same voltage as the battery pack, no spark should occur, as there'd be no voltage difference and thus no current flowing (I = U/R, current = voltage difference over resistance)... What the anti-spark connectors do is charge the capacitors to same voltage as the battery pack through a resistor before the final very, very low resistance connection is made.
  16. I was going to edit the above post to add things, but since the way to do it nowadays for everyone seems to be to make a new post and get insane post counts with very little content, I'll go that route too... As for the effort required to put them on and taking off, an example I can offer is from yesterday morning. I was riding to school early in the morning, about +7C outside, and my hands were cold. I had forgotten to put on thin woollen gloves I use under the Flexmeters, but luckily I had them in my jacket pocket. So, while riding down a long stretch of road that only curves around a bit and has good visibility, I peeled back my jacket sleeve, took off the left hand Flexmeter, placed it under my armpit to hold it, fished the gloves from my jacket pocket, put on the glove, put on the flexmeter and then repeat it for other hand. All this while following the edge of the road, so I'd say they're pretty easy to put on and take off... well, yeah, of course it matters that I've used them for such a long time, might not be that easy if you've only just got them.
  17. I've had my Flexmeters for over 2 years, bought early in summer of 2015, although they didn't see much use in the summer of 2016 (no working wheel, just some rides with a friends' KS16B), in total I'd guess I've put them on and taken them off hundreds of times, and taken a couple of falls palms first, although not from very high speeds. The worst damage from falls has been a small cut in my pinky (in 2015), I guess it would have been much worse without the guards. On mine there's some wear & tear, in general they're still OK, but the fabric at the left-hand one has torn partially on the sides near the skid plate. I think that's because I have this weird habit of fiddling around with the left hand skid plate sometimes when riding, no idea why I do that No D30-markings on mine.
  18. I don't have an Inmotion or parts for it, but I'd be interested to know if you have any idea why the battery exploded? You took the mainboard and the battery out from the wheel, but did you still leave them connected... do you think the battery could have been still shorted over the mainboard? I guess the BMS safeties are either very lacking, or got burned in the initial short and the battery remained shorted, causing it to heat up and finally explode. A good reminder for everyone to be careful with the batteries, even "empty" ones (unless the cells are totally dead at 0V, they can still hold enough charge to cause a fire or explode).

    I ride almost solely with hiking boots, and with "correct" foot positioning (which I guess probably depends on the anatomy of your foot and the pedals, and likely is something that you can discover just by trying different positions), can go for very long rides without having to stop and without pain. I did do a few short rides with sneakers this past summer, and at least in my case, it becomes painful pretty fast. For me, I found the suitable foot positioning pretty much "automatically" over time, just ride enough and you'll find it sooner or later. I do stand forwards on the pedals, so that the the toe-part of the boots is over the front of the pedal, but not as far as kasenutty's image above shows. Usually my toes point a bit outwards, like in C -option in below picture, but maybe not that much: The grip on the newer KS's pedals makes it harder to shift your feet on the pedals while riding (at least for me it was, as I had accustomed to only lightening one foot a bit and dragging it on the pedal with the less grippy FW-pedals), but it's a useful skill so you don't have to stop to adjust your feet. Over time, you'll learn to get the correct foot-position from the get-go, at least most of the time.
  20. Interesting New Inventions

    Here's an interesting old invention: HZ-1 Aerocycle In 1954 the U.S Army decided that walking into battle is for poor commie suckers, and that U.S infantryman should have the privilege of flying into the frontline, thus traversing minefields, rivers etc with ease. The HZ-1 Aerocycle was the horrifying response to this bizarre request from the Army. This combination of a helicopter and a pogo-stick guaranteed amputation when one realizes the pilot stood about three inches above the totally exposed rotor blades. Engine control was provided through a motorbike-style handgrip, and movement was controlled by the pilot’s leaning movement. Imagine trying to control a helicopter like a Segway, but without any digital stabilization or fly-by-wire systems, because it’s the 1950s. The U.S Army Transportation Museum stated, “it’s determined that the craft was much more difficult to fly than had been expected.” Well, no shit. In addition, the two rotors would smash into each other at high speeds, rendering the HZ-1 useless even in the hands of highly trained pilots. The program was cancelled in 1957. Morons responsible for coming up with this idea of a lethal hoverboard were given slaps to the face. From "A few of the shittiest aircraft designs throughout history" : https://imgur.com/gallery/KKHtD
  21. There's a schematic there, just a matter of getting the parts & building the circuit Ok, slight modifications (changing some values) for the higher voltage is necessary. A friend with some electronics knowledge, local hacklab or similar could likely help you make one if you really want it, and the components aren't even expensive, the most expensive parts are the 100W LEDs, but even those aren't much if you order from Aliexpress/eBay/Amazon. "Gray market" 100W LEDs might be slightly off-spec/overrated by the power, but it's not like they have to burn for a long while at a time, so even if they're lower wattage they likely would still work for the intended purpose. I did consider building one of the choppers, but never got around to it (have the parts though). Would be kinda hard to test, as I don't have a power supply that could go into high enough voltages. Anybody got an adjustable 100+V/few hundred watt 19" rack-mount PSU for sale?
  22. How much do you spend to maintain your Addiction?

    Close, but I bet @EUC Extreme goes beyond that, both in amount of wheels per year and cost... I don't remember if he has posted the amounts in the forums or just mentioned them in private message, so I won't disclose them, but suffice to say that he had plotted down more than that already back in 2015 or maybe early 2016 and at least had quite a collection of wheels & equipment... Not that it's a race, and I couldn't afford to drop 13k into wheels
  23. KS16S overvoltage and vibrations?

    That sucks, luckily never had any issues with the S myself (so far, knock on wood)... If they find out what's causing it, I'd be curious to know.
  24. M Super V2

    I don't think MSuper V2 works with iPhone (at all), but could be wrong... MSuper V2 uses the older Bluetooth 2 protocol/chips, whereas the newer wheels use Bluetooth 4 ("LE" or Low Energy), and I'm not sure if (at least newer) iPhones allow connecting to BT 2.0 devices at all. At least the LE protocol stack is completely different from what was used with BT 2.
  25. How much do you spend to maintain your Addiction?

    In the ballpark of 4500+€ (roughly $5400) for 4 wheels + spare/custom parts, accessories and safety gear, but about 1/4th of that went into a failed custom-battery project... What can I say, it's an expensive country, and at the time I wasn't aware of 1RadWerkstatt's existence. Almost all of my trips are just recreational, sometimes in the summer I actually wish I didn't have remote work so I'd have a good reason to go riding to work and back I don't want to calculate the cost per kilometer, because that would be just depressing The "funny" thing is that I didn't even have a working wheel last summer (2016 I mean), and this summer we (again) had pretty lousy weather. Getting kinda cold to ride again, but I did go pick up some packages and then came back the "scenic route" today, wearing long johns & thin gloves under the wrist protectors, +8 Celsius, dark and slight rain outside