Xima Lhotz

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About Xima Lhotz

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  1. Wow, love the spec of this wheel! I think it looks fantastic in matte black, big want it now factor! Even if it's not finished I want one, I'll buy the testing unit! Have to dig out the roadracing leathers from the basement though. Any new information you can give us about this wheel?
  2. Is that a Gotway solder joint (on the output cables) or is the BMS redone? It looks to me like a cold solder and there is so much of the solder, is it done with a fire poker? If it's done by someone else with little or no experience well then it's understandable that it looks that way.
  3. While its good to know the temperature with the connectors it's not the hottest point. As they (connectors) has the biggest AWG the heat will be low(er) and with your insulation and shrink wrap there will be a big delay in heat transfer from the connector/cable to the sensor. The hottest part will be in direct contact with the insulation of the separate motor cables before they all enter the outer insulation (black pvc?). So if you could "peel back" the heatsleeves and place the sensor In direct contact with the motor cables (sourround them around the sensor exactly like you did at the connectors) ) then you would have a "better" reading of the actual temp. The cables will now be in free air so it will actually be hotter inside the motor cable (you could use some heat sleeve if you have to wrap around the sensor) then you would get the most accurate temperature reading simulating the "inside" of the engine cable. Will be fun to see what the experiment reveals in any case! What do you have for motor cable, is it 16 or 14 AWG? Forgot the picture :-)
  4. Did it throw you off or did it beep and forced you to stop? A perfect example of the board coped with the overheat situation perfectly (if it didn't throw you off) but the wires aren't up to the task at hand even with the 84V version. (no surprise there) (Oh, so that tape and plastic sleeve is Ok for 200C is it, as the silicon cables? If designing around a 200C cable then ALL components must handle 200C in that chain) My guess is that the sleeve of the motor cable is not silicon and so that has an even lower temp rating. This situation has alway been about the cable and will continue to be about cables ( the solder melted in the connectors due to heat from the cable (16awg motor cable) The bullet connectors are fine, and are much larger than 14 awg and can easily handle the current (have not sen spec so guesswork based on size). Even with the "new and future proofing 14AWG motor cable" it will fail inside the motor cable where the cables touch in these situation, they are not in "free air". Or in the connectors/solder depending on the current in the cable and sourrounding temp. Its so easy to calculate the size of that cable according to current, and heat! A rider should NEVER EVER have to care about what the wheel does, then its always "Well I think this is fine, but you say its not" situation. Account for outside temp, previous hills, omg that its just not how it should work. And the constant worry "is this the hill, must i slow down, have the wheel been in the sun". Not a comforting enjoyable ride. The wheel warns if its to hot and forces a stop, and so the cables and connectors must be designed around the maximum continous output from the control board. End of story, problem solved.
  5. (Read that spec sheet wrong.. thank you @esaj for pointing that out)! The mosfet can handle 120A (package limit) but @ 10V not 84V and its also heat limited. See spec sheet: http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irfb4110pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a401535615a9571e0b Have a look at figure 8, maximum safe operating area, It can only take 10A but for less than 100 usec if you have a voltage of less that 100V. So its very easy to burn a mosfet with the wrong firmware behaviour.
  6. The cable is actually hottest inside the pvc casing as the conductor isn't in free air. It may look like the worst place is with the connectors but that's likely to the solder melting, creating a bad connection that causes sparks, smoke, sut at the point where it fails. Like putting a red hot iron inside a glove, touch it from the outside and it's still cooler, for a while before the glove catches fire. Touch the iron without a glove and you get instant burn but the iron will dissipate the heat faster. That why using heatsleeves is such a bad idea, it protects from the burn from the cable (or iron) from the outside but inside the sleeve it's hotter (and retains heat) and puts more stress on the cable. And sure as you say, at the time of failure due to increased resistanse, bad connection the heat is hottest at the connection at that point in time.
  7. Lets assume they use this type of solder, with the 16AWG cable, it will still melt that solder i think. With this small cable and the high currents the heat that the conductor reaches is well over 200C. Lets take a known high quality cable 16AWG silicon insulation: http://catalog.connectronicscorp.com/Asset/WIREMAX-conductor-CURRENT--2-.pdf 16AWG cable, in free air, 30 degrees C, not bundled with no other wires gives 32 amps and then the core/conductor of the cable will be 200 degrees. The differens from 125C to 200C conductor temp is only 6 amps. So lets see, 3000W peak with 67V = 44 amps, 12 more amps. That conductor is now probably 300C or more and will melt any solder. And temperature rise is quick with these currents. This calculation is done on a (1) cable i free air, 30 degrees C, high quality silicon cable. Not bundled and not covered with a heat adding sleeves (this is not a fix) and then protected (bundled) by a PVC sleeve thats not designed for 200C and put inside a box (wheel) with a heat generating control board. This (melting) problem will always be here, in one shape or form (solder, wire, insulation) if they continue to use the same engine cable with 16AWG and don't raise voltage higher.
  8. I think you might have problem with the engine cable as well (not surprised if thats true). The PVC casing looks melted, maybe you could provide a detailed photo of this area? And again, its been said before, the design is flawed, 16AWG for enginecable is to small for the current/power available and will always fail when pushed. More so with 67V engines. So when you fix your connectors and continue riding, your engine cable will melt through and trough in your usagecase. There is a reason battery cables are bigger (not just voltage drop) they don't melt, and the same current that goes through the battery cables will always go through the engine cables.
  9. Yes, the homepage have been dead for some time now. Yes clearly IP65 as the totally white open connector(s) from the control box can handle water. I bet that red and black wire is + and - with some type of voltage. Its like having a IP65 rated glovebox in you car but the doors doesn't have windows and saying, "This car is IP65 rated" with a strait face. I understand where they are going here, but its really bad, and this isn't listed on the official IPS page, its listed on a distributor page. Official IPS store, wheel listed as IP65 device, not the control box. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LY94P8F?m=A1RO1TBXM3SGUD&ref_=v_sp_widget_detail_page
  10. Its with the old control board that doesn't work with iamips app. It also doesn't have RGB led function, but it does have RGB leds installed. Yes, thats the reason i bought it, i wanted to be able to ride in any condition. IP class 65 is (from wikipedia) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code : 6 = Dust tight, No ingress of dust; complete protection against contact (dust tight). A vacuum must be applied. Test duration of up to 8 hours based on air flow 5 = Water projected by a nozzle (6.3 mm) against enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects. Its nowhere close to this spec. Yes, these devices shake a lot (every small bump or stone) so it really needs to be well designed with very solid battery packs. Its complete false advertising and is nowhere close to true. Really bad. Buying it with this as one of the main reasons gives me a bigger feeling of non satisfaction with IPS. (maybe bigger then if you just bought it not knowing / wanting IP rating). Really basic things, too bad IPS doesn't recognise this.
  11. Hello everyone. This is a one year of usage review of the Xima Lhotz 340wh. I have the “old” version 30km/h 340wH and bought it for 1000EUR was only 1 place to get it (its now cheaper…) Short version for people who don’t have time. Would i buy it again or recommend= No. Images of faults below. Longer version for people who have a little more time The good Its a tank (shell wise) and can take a beating. The BMS+ control boars gives a great sense of security, it doesn’t shut off with low battery etc, it beeps+ tilt back and forces you to stop. The ride is fantastic both asphalt and trails, rocks and hills. It never hurts my feet. A general sense of not cutting out. I have riden this wheel in rain, snow, ice and summer without no problems. (i thought, see below) The bad Letters came of the moment i removed the protective film. (i don’t want the text but some might want that.) Not possible to set beeping on off och custom settings. No tiltback settings. App is OK, a bit slow and missing some features for me like the “new” version, engine power etc) I always use Kevins version and compared to new version of other apps it now feels very basic. The ugly Its marketed as a “tank / offroad” device with IP65 rating but this is not true. My front and rear leds have rusted and eventually shorted the LED control board while removing dirt from the leds. The inside of the wheel i covered in dust. The battery pack broke (broken connection after vibrations) so that had to be repaired, when will the next connection brake? Bit of an trust issue... No manual and explanation of all fault codes. Stainless steel handle plates rusted, its not all stainless steel. LED stripes broke side, front and rear. Would i buy again? Short answer, No. With everyday riding in all types of conditions 1 year of usage is not fantastic and i expected more. There are more powerful, higher wH fast wheels today and the reliability and quality on wheels like Inmotion V8 or ACM at almost the same prise is well worth it. I would have bought again if it held to all the claims and if it had a bigger battery: IP65, no dust + water entry in wheel and leds., Battery pack bracken due to vibrations!? its an offroad marketed device. Homepage, manual and support seem “off” there is a feeling they will disappear. 340wH is to little for hills and “offroad”. Upgrades: I recently moved to a place on a hill and every time i went home (with full battery) the low voltage alarm went off so i had to stop and this resulted in a DIY battery upgrade +180wH total 520 wH and after that no more low voltage alarms and i can go for 30km in 4 degrees C at 20+km/h average speed so now the wheel is great range wise. I can go 27+km/h up that same hill now. For me this wheel in its standard configuration is to weak with 340wH battery and only because of that i wouldn’t buy it again. Add to that battery pack failure due to vibrations + other issues and the answer is clear. Its been a great wheel to ride though before i lived on a hill (and after battery updates living on a hill) for almost a year coming from X8 but today the choice would be different. If IPS would build a wheel with updates that would fit my needs and with updates addressing all my concerns and faults i would buy IPS again solely because of the fantastic BMS+firmware+engine+ride combo that gives great trust. Images below: Have a good weekend! Image of back led with dust inside. Image inside the light. Rusted led chip. Backside of led stripe. Broken LED board control. Design flaw.. Broke LED stripes side. Rusted handle. Battery repair. Broken connection in battery pack. Repaired battery pack. I had to tape the pack tighter as there was a lot of "flex" between the different areas of the pack, this resulted in the broken connection.
  12. I was out ridning today and suddenly the wheel quit on me and started to beep continuously. I can start the wheel but after 10 sec the power button starts to blink twice, continuous beep, and tiltback so I'm forced to stop. IPS homepage is down and i can't find any manual describing the fault. @rayna903, @王月月 do you have any information about this? Maybe someone on this great forum have some info? See video for more information. Xima error.mp4 *Update A connection in the batterypack had snapped off due to vibrations.
  13. The fact you got 3 12AWG wires through that hole displays great patience. Yes, this is so true. The silicon cables (that are clearly marked 200C 14AWG) from the board looks to be quality cables while the engine cable (regardless of spec) is not. And while fire might not be the most scientific (but most fun ) test it does display what happens to cables over time if they are subjected to heat (read current) thats higher then they are designed for. They dry and fall apart.
  14. Sure, it says they are listening and wants to fix problems and this is great. Maybe next time they will change the engine cables to :-) Yes, can't believe that they need convincing, the science is free, calculate according to load, heat and cable specs and your done! Yes, this is the worst part, many riders use their wheels daily without problems but how does one know? What heat, hill, heat build up during a ride, board temp, bump, start, stopp etc will be the deciding factor when you have a cable as limiting factor. The limit should be current output from the board and the cables should then be designed around that current and temp. You have already been that someone By posting your thread you contributed to the development and got a ball rolling! Thats great!
  15. Sorry, this is not the problem, the cables are to small for the current. And they still touch before they all connect before going in ti the engine cable. I think your point of failure was right before the cables connect in the engine cable. Well they do run next to each other, inside the engine cable, same current inside of that small cable and now they are not i free air. Again, this is not the fix, this only makes the cables hotter as they are not in "free" air. If you need heat protection from "outside" heat then the cables are to small. It will, to small cable for the current. If the smaller engine cable is good enough for the current then why is the battery cable of a bigger type? Its not just voltage drop. The current that goes through the battery cable will go trough the engine cable that is much smaller. Its not dimensions properly and thats why its melting and not the battery cable. We haven heard or seen of battery cables melting, because they are the right dimension and therfore works properly without heat sleeves. I don't want to rant Gotway or worry users but its not fixed at all. I actually want an ACM so i really want them to do it properly. With the correct dimensiond cable for the current.