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KingSong69 last won the day on April 11

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About KingSong69

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  1. At what level was the batterie, when that happened? Your wheel still works, so it wasnt a mosfet or something else that burned...and as you say it needed some time to come up again! So (with this informations until now) i would think of a batterie cell having a problem, perhaps having a massive voltagedrop and the shutoff resulting in BMS cutting the Power Off. After the batterie recovered the wheel works again. Problem is, that this is all guessing.....and hard to find out the thruth. Check all connections in the wheel...if they are good there is not much left what can be the fault.
  2. Yeah, i have the 18S with this Kenda tire also, and from the arrow on the tire...its the wrong direction!
  3. Did you reconnect the motor and sensor cables correctly? Sounds like wrong connections...Not so easy to fry the Board from simple maintenance!
  4. a VERY nice KS18S video from a EUC community member called Phillipe Chiu:
  5. Hmmh, with a 1.09 firmware version its a very old 18A! Also i dont see a fuse, which was even on my 18A 1200w 1,5 years old.... Is it 800watt or 1200watt Version? Also you should look out to a board Version Number, somewhere noted... You should ask Ks directly for replacement board, as they with the serialnumber perhaps they know which is the right one! As there where several versions of board, not so get a replacement from a seller, perhaps aka @Jason McNeil can help?! And btw: Doesnt look like capacitor to me, the most burning is way above
  6. Some Euc's have this behaviour, that in the curves the pedals are dipping no, you are not just imagining this! On KS and GW you can get this effect away, or reduce it to a minumum, by doing a very proper calibration. On the calibration take attention that your wheel is perfectly horizontal AND vertical aligned. But i have to say, that i dont know how this "curve dipping" behaviour is in general on the Inmotion-V8, perhaps it is always there?! Some riders have no problem to adjust to this and say its normal, i have problems when driving a dipping wheel, as my own wheels thankfully dont have this weird behavior ....
  7. @kasenutty you have to explain that it is an older unit to KS also, if they help you, when i remember correctly board/motor combinations have changed over the time...
  8. very optimistic....but i really wish the best for you! and: Ok, this seams to be a unit, that was standing AT LEAST over a year at Kale's one of the "older" he had that stock since i started my EUC unit...february/march 2016... i really wondered how the axle has broken so in newer revisions this was -mostly- fixed....
  9. i always have thought Jason was a bit nitpicky on that... Its absolutly not doable to change this upper part easily...the one with the fan is connected to the board, and to take this piece away from the wheel you have to peel of part of the push that cover to the side! And as said, this fan holes/slots are under the grip and between your legs AND are protected by foam!
  10. Aaaah, Ok, got it :-) Have to look on my Ks18s directly..But there it is not corresponding with the arrow on the tire :-( From the arrow on the tire my LED for batterie should be in front, while the chargeport is at the back. And thats how i'm driving it...
  11. while i see the chargeport on the 16s as the front....i don't understand that with the Kingsong moldings... whatever you have in front...they read the same? :-)
  12. We are speaking about the batterie side...not the "after control board" side...where this is true! That would mean that with batterie going down and needing more amps to produce the same amount of watts, the wheel is producing more torque, and getting better with batterie going down? Sorry, my wheels tend to get weaker with voltage going down(and so amps going up).... Sorry, that was a gift :-) dont know where its from...
  13. no, sorry, thats a misunderstanding! lets say you need a certain amount of power/torque/watts aka 2000 watt... with an low voltage you have to draw much more amps than on an higher voltage....thats bad for the batterie, and no advantage at all, its more the opposite. more amps = more torque is only valid when speaking about same voltage
  14. Thats why i told you not to do it parallel in all my posts! The original packs are kind of communicating with each other and i doubt your 3rd party BmS can do that...
  15. yeah, the motor powers are the same...but with 84volts instead of 67volts its much easier to generate more Watts...and that by using less amps/stress the batterie less Believe me, the 84volts -especially on high power situations- are a bit stronger :-) you will see on your v3s+! Nevertheless i would go for a KS more than for a GW....quality is just 10times better, and the focus is on "never have a shutdown" instead of "highest performance".... my 2 cents :-)