Keith

Moderators
  • Content count

    833
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

Keith last won the day on September 8 2016

Keith had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,541 Excellent

5 Followers

About Keith

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/07/1955

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • Interests
    Radio Control aircraft, photography, Malta.
  1. Trouble is, what have you actually learned?, horrible on anything other than flat surfaces and it will probably shave a whole 30 minutes off of how long it will take you to learn a single wheel, all it really teaches is how to lean forwards and backwards. It seems to take less than 1 month for most people to want something better that doesn't try to send them into the road every time they try to traverse a dropped kerb. Now that is a VERY GOOD reason to use a twin wheel, providing what you REALLY need is to be able to go very slowly on flat ground. Of course if you want to film at speed or over less than flat ground you are going to need really good image stabilisation to cope with all the wobbling around a twin wheel will do over uneven ground.
  2. @Tishawn Fahie, best EUC article I've read, give our regards to Delinda Joseph if you know her and keep up the excellent work 😄👌 @RichieV, thank you for bringing it to our attention.
  3. As @esaj, says above it is the connectors not the batteries that may cause a problem with "fast charging". An 840Wh 16s battery is 14.5Ah so a standard charge is 7.25Amps and a "fast charge" I.e. that could possibly reduce the service life of the batteries is greater than that up to 14.5Amps. It drives me up the wall that a 5 Amp charger is considered a "Fast Charger" a piece of historical anachronism from early wheels having less than 160Wh batteries (and even those often had a 2 Amp charger) Discussed further below, but bottom line is that it is long overdue EUC manufacturers making chargers and charge side circuitry which can, at the very least, charge the wheel at 0.5C I.e. Two hours to fully charge REGARDLESS OF THE BATTERY SIZE.
  4. Didn't spot your reply at the time, it's a plastic tray to catch all the mud and water after a typical British summer day ride.
  5. Wow, eBay must be taking the Italian's for a ride, the dearest metal one I could find on Amazon.co.uk £10.99 and the cheapest (£5.99, €6.50) gets good reviews and has free postage: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005FF4IXK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498200113&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=guitar+stand&dpPl=1&dpID=41i4Xjz33sL&ref=plSrch I was, originally, going to buy one but then realised that a couple of rubber walking stick rubbers converted my trolley handle to a stand.
  6. That in itself is probably as good a reason as any not to do it. Why pay for a load of parts you do not need. On the other hand EUC motors are based very closely on, in some cases are exactly the same as, ebike motors. An ebike controller (or 4) would need no, or very little modification and you could buy as many ebike battery packs as you considered you needed. It also ought to be easier to make up a frame to fit them, as well as working out cheaper I would expect than 4 KS-18's or similar. BTW, I'm sure I saw an article that one of the car companies (Ford?) had a concept ecar where the wheels could be removed and used as EUC's
  7. I'm really surprised that he didn't seem to realise that it was the overvoltage signal, he got it only when going down hill relatively slowly and only for the first part of the ride where the battery was close to fully charged. That very much suggests it's regen braking putting too high a voltage into the battery. Ironically, he was slowing down because of that signal whereas it would probably have gone off if he speeded up so as to consume power. That notwithstanding, @RooMiniPro's description of it being "brutal" is about right, no alarm needs to be that awful surely? About the only thing I didn't like about the wheel. It had certainly got me thinking that an i5 for commuting/last mile/ any journey that includes trains, buses or automobiles coupled with something good for long range and off road like a KS-16 or any of the Gotways would be a marriage made in heaven. I REALLY like the idea of it as an around town wheel.
  8. @kelleygirl, I'm afraid that there are so many rebadged hoverboards around that support for any one of them is poor. Hence why you are not too likely to get useful answers from any of the hoverboard users on this forum (who strangely enough appear much less willing to support each other than the EUC users, like myself, who have a wealth of useful information for each other.) Smartbalancewheel.com appears to be an Indonesian retailer so the wheels are very likely to just be rebadged and it does not look like they are interested in international sales - so not sure how you got one in California or indeed if the one you have has anything to do with that company? However I think this might well be the manual for it: https://studylib.net/doc/8422418/smart-balance-wheel-scooter-dual-speed--user-manual. In practice, because this is likely to be rebadged it is also likely that it uses a fairly standard Hoverboard charger. You should be able to identify the charging voltage by a notice on the wheel and also the charging socket should be obvious as well. Any hoverboard charger of the right voltage with the right charging plug should be OK. Although I would recommend also checking (or getting an someone experienced in electrics to check) that the positive and negative are on the same pins on any charger you get as on the hoverboard socket. Before bothering though, did the wheel have any power and work when you got it? If the battery was already flat, and has been left like that for some considerable time ( I.e. at least for some months - a possibility if the charger has been lost) then you may find the battery has been ruined as they do not take being left discharged for long periods.
  9. Yes you would definitely want to earn it before pushing too hard 😂 Low temperatures seem to have the effect of increasing the internal resistance within the cells, whilst this will in itself you would think would simply result in heating them up more quickly it does seem to degrade the cells over time. Obviously the best strategy is to start with the battery at room temperature. @esaj and @EUC Extreme are probably our best experts on this being that they ride in such sub-tropical paradises as Finland! I believe @EUC Extremehas arranged heating on his battery packs? @esajhas covered this in his usual comprehensive style here:
  10. With the armature of any motor you have a physical airspace, ideally you want to as much as possible, to totally fill that with copper as the more copper you have got the more current and lower resistance you will have. You can do that two ways (or any intermediate way between those two.) you can have a large number of turns of a single, or small number of, thin strands of wire = low Kv, low maximum current, high torque constant. Will support a high(er) voltage. you can have a very small number of turns of very thick wire, in practice it is usually lots of thin parallel wires as that will better fill the airspace with as much copper as possible = high Kv, high maximum current, low torque constant, suits a lower voltage. Additionally whether the coils of the armatures are connected together in star or delta configuration also impacts the Kv value. So, whilst a larger motor will, inherently be prone to having a lower Kv, since a small motor and large motor can be wound with exactly the same Kv (but the larger one would require less turns of thicker wire.) then the torque of a larger motor will be significantly higher due to its higher current capability
  11. And sorry again that is complete and utter rubbish. I've got tiny little motors with the same kV as much larger ones. The big ones have grossly more Torque. You are getting completely confused about what the torque constant Kt actually means. torque constant Kt is indeed directly related to Kv Kt=60/2Pi x Kv but, and this is a REALLY BIG BUT, KT is the torque produced divided by armature current. A physically larger motor has more room for copper wire and can, therefore carry considerably more current. Turning the above statement around torque = Kt x I (where I is the current flowing. ) So Kv only directly controls the output torque when the same physical size motor is wound for a low Kv or high Kv. A bigger motor wound with thicker wire such as to have the same Kv will generate more torque due to its ability to take more current.
  12. Sorry that article is absolute total rubbish as far as EUC's are concerned. It is based on the very simple idea of a fixed sized motor being wed to a spoked wheel and is perfectly correct in so far as a smaller wheel will, for a given motor give more torque (but also a correspondingly lower top speed as well.) It will be EXACTLY like you are using a lower gear with a smaller wheel. however, THE BIGGER THE MOTOR DIAMETER - THE GREATER THE TORQUE, so a larger EUC, with a physically bigger motor in it will have considerably more torque. It is the very reason that our EUC, and the vast majority of model aircraft motors are outrunners i.e. With the coils in the middle and magnets outside, increasing the moment arm (I.e. Radius) increases the torque in exactly the same way that a huge bolder can be moved by one man on the end of a long pole..
  13. Yes, @esaj you are right, I'd forgotten the original post by @Paddylaz. However, unless something like a bent axle has occurred, or, as suggested above the tyre tread pattern is having an effect, there is nothing else on the wheels mechanical or electrical geometry that should be capable of inducing a sideways movement. What we do know about the Inmotion range is that their peddles, and hence CofG is higher than most, if not all, other wheels. That should mean that any of the known causes of wobblying are more likely to occur on the v5 or V8. Possibly all it takes to appear to happen when the battery is lower is that the speed is slightly lower and holds a harmonic point long enough to for it to amplify or even that slightly more lean is used as acceleration has reduced very slightly due to the lower voltage? You certainly can get into a sort of pilot induced oscillation on any of these wheels if, just like on a plane, your corrections get exactly out of phase with the event. I hadn't had any sort of wobbles for more than a year on my KS-14C until I rode along a very wet and muddy track and my wheel started to oscillate sideways like I was doing the twist, I managed to reach and grab the fence at the side of the track JUST before I was thrown face first into the mud.