Keith

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Keith last won the day on September 8 2016

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About Keith

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    Surrey, UK
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    Radio Control aircraft, photography, Malta.

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  1. @Josip The only relevant bit in the user manual is: Precautions Before Using Stand behind the scooter and adjust the handle till the pedals are level. At this time, the scooter is at a balanced state, and ready for use. First step on one of the pedals with one foot; place the other foot after you hear the "beep" sound, which indicates the scooter is in appropriate pressure state and maintains balance. If the pedals are not balanced, readjust them and make them level. Balance Test : Place the scooter on a horizontal position, and press the "On/Off" button for 3s; release the button when you hear the "beep" sound and the side indicator LED lights flash. After conducting the balance test, you need to perform the riding test. Point 1.) does seem to suggest it has a sensor or switch that is weight operated, point 2.) is worth trying to see if it makes any difference. There is no other adjustment I can see in the user manual. As far as I can see, without personal experience of this Hoverboard, it looks to be the best designed and highest quality Hoverboard currently available, although it's use of what it calls "gravity sensors" appears to be mainly to get around existing hoverboard patents and you may have found a major problem with them? Therefore, it ought to be possible to ask this question of your supplier or return it for a refund if it will not work with a light child. The manual says children under 14 must be supervised, it does not say it cannot or must not be used under a certain weight or size. Alternately ask Koowheel themselves: http://www.koowheel.com/contact-us If you do find the answer to this problem, please update this page to help other users.
  2. Paddy, I can only talk from experience of LiPo batteries going bad, but everything I've seen and read about 18650 suggests that failures should be similar, albeit they should last a hell of a lot longer not only because LiPos are way more fragile but also in model aircraft they get really badly treated - 1C or higher charges and 20C plus discharges, most of my flight batteries last 6 to 10 minutes in flight, I.e. averaging a 10C discharge, an EUC should have at least 1 hours run time so an average of 1C or less. Firstly, I fly using 2 to 6 cell LiPo's which should have been fairly closely matched at manufacture yet it is very rare for more than one cell to go bad in a pack so there is a definite randomness to it. Ignoring physical signs (a cell puffing up) the often noticeable change is significantly increased internal resistance, I.e. Under load the pack will drop its voltage more and the maximum current will be reduced. Our chargers show every cell's voltage and a failing cell will often be lower when it's been used but sometimes reaches full voltage quicker (I.e. It's capacity has gone down) Sometimes, leaving the pack for some days, that cell may have dropped to a lower voltage, I.e. It is leaking charge - which I think is that Lithium metal whiskers starting to partially short the cell. The problems you have with an 18650 battery pack in an EUC is that there are a) cells in parallel and b). not usually any monitoring of the individual cells by the BMS that reaches the main control board so, it is highly likely you will only see range reducing and a greater voltage drop under high load (high acceleration or a hill). It would probably be easier to spot if you commute on the wheel so start to see changes day to day - but a colder day will also show the same effects. Using a charge doctor might show you that the current is reducing more slowly or indeed stops reducing and settles at a low level. As @Slaughthammer has just said above it might slowly discharge lowering the pack voltage after a few days Chargers, like any electronics, could last for generations or fail tomorrow, there is no effect other than plugs wearing out that could be seen as ageing although electrolytic capacitors ( the big cylindrical ones) can potentially dry out with age but it's fairly unusual- I'm still using a Sony CD player I bought in 1986 and the Casio calculator I had at school (which, OK, replaced a slide rule) still worked when I put a battery in it last year. As @Chriullhas already said above, if it is reaching full voltage off load it is probably OK, with a Charge Doctor you can also confirm it reaches full current as well.
  3. Only the very earliest, and oldest V5D and V5F wheels were stated as 288Wh, most are 320 Wh so best to let the seller actually answer the question isn't it! V5D was intended for the Asia market, V5F for rest of world. By the way, after posting I found the below: quite pleased my 'guesstimate' on the range isn't far out 😜
  4. Yeh, right, that is downhill with the wind behind and a trained chimpanzee riding it! If, and this is a REALLY big IF, you went so slowly that you could get consumption down to 10Wh/km you would still only get 26km out of it whilst consuming 90% battery (I doubt it would let you use the last 10%) If you did 25km/h I would expect a range of 18-20km at most with a rider of no more 75kg. Those figures are still a lot higher than I actually get out of my 340Wh KingSong at that weight. As you can see Its not terribly helpful publishing manufacturer's figures 😜
  5. Fascinating in many ways, but Oh some awful soldering at times, and really silly to try and parallel LiIon 18650's with a LiFe battery, the simple logical thing to do, especially as he had allowed the LiFe battery to completely flatten was dump the LiFe altogether and just use 18650's. LiFe cells hold their voltage really well I.e. They will run at 3.3-3.2V/cell pretty much at any state of charge or current draw, whereas the LiIon cells drop from 4.2V down to 3V in a curve. Since parallel batteries have to have the same voltage at all times, the result is he would have drawn nearly all his power from the LiFe battery until it was nearly empty and then the LiIon cells would have been trying to charge the LiFe battery and power the board - messy.
  6. Thank heavens most of the sellers are too stupid to mark them up with plausible capacities - the highest 18650s I've seen have been advertised as 9000mAh and I've even seen some buyers praise how wonderfully long lasting they are. Mind you others have actually tested them carefully and then complained bitterly that they are crap - which has still left me thinking "surely if your clever enough to know how to test them you ought to have been clever enough not to buy them in the first place? I'm still struggling to find an 18650 loose cell seller I actually trust enough to buy from?
  7. You are asking important questions here as this is where you start to get into grey areas - not with batteries, but with electronics. Firstly, as far as looking after batteries is concerned you probably cannot do better than this article: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries However, several articles have suggested electronics can "go out of calibration" and the above article does say: "The exception may be a periodic calibration of the fuel gauge on a smart battery or intelligent device. (See BU-603: How to Calibrate a “Smart” Battery)". This would require that the battery charge state display is a "Coulomb counter" and is showing remaining capacity by counting how much charge has already been consumed, As far as I can tell, most EUC's simply report voltage - easily spotted, if accelerating fast results in the EUC reporting a lower battery that, suddenly, is higher again when you stop - it is just voltage it is reading and it should not be possible for that to go out of calibration. If the charge goes down steadily then it might well need calibration occasionally. The other point you raise is also very valid 0% on the EUC is really NOT 0% if the display is a voltage reading, it might be if it is Coulomb counting. For example my early KingSong 14C decides that empty is 55 Volts = 3.43V / cell. This would be damn near empty as there is very, very little capacity between 3.4V and 3V (OFF-LOAD), unfortunately it does it under load with the result I always have at least 30% of unusable capacity. Later KS-14C's have this reset much lower (48 or 50V?) However there is usually a healthy 10-20% capacity left to protect the battery - particularly from some cells possibly being lower than others. Im not sure which way of measuring the IPS uses, but if it does monitor every cell it can allow the battery to drop to nearer 0% as it will report empty on the lowest cell.
  8. I think you may be confusing two different events and making 2+2 = 5 Balancing should be happening all the time during charging, but no BMS I am aware of does that, they simply cap each cell or set of parallel cells at 4.2V shunting the charge current past those cells, however the amount of current they can shunt is in milliamperes so, if a cell is badly out of balance it can take hours after the green light goes on to top up those well out of balance cells. Bearing the above in mind, as batteries get older the variation in usable capacity between cells will increase. That can cause two problems: it can take a long time after the pack appears to be fully charged for some cells to catch up. if the pack is drained very low the danger of pushing some cells down to unacceptably low voltages which will cause irreversible damage gets greater, Unless your wheel has either a very conservative low voltage warning or the individual cells report to the controller and low battery is based on the worst cells in the pack. If I'm not mistaken the IPS wheels are about the only ones that do the latter and report individual cells to the controller so a poor cell will reduce your range considerably and trickle balancing that cell for a lot of hours will help get it up to full voltage. I.e. I think the range change you are seeing is specific to the way IPS wheels protect their batteries and is not applicable to any other wheel. Perceived and well documented wisdom is that it is a very bad idea to regularly cycle Lithium batteries all the way to empty and even doing it occasionally will still negatively impact battery pack life. I.e. It should be done ONLY when absolutely necessary and maximum range is needed. In Conclusion I think the effect you are seeing has everything to do with the long balance charge and nothing whatsoever to do with flattening the battery deliberately first. The IPS wheels will protect the battery on first low cell (artificially, in a way, lowering range more than other manufactures would given the same pack) Flattening the pack does not "improve" the battery by cycling, that effect is known on NiCad batteries but is not present in Lithiums as far as all experts I've read are concerned - it just ages the pack. Flattening the pack deliberately to improve range, is not only a bad idea due to ageing, but on wheels other than IPS you risk possibly taking some cells low enough to damage them, particularly if your battery is either not of the highest quality or is more than (say) 2 years old.
  9. Point 3 says absolutely nothing and will (indeed is) seen by a western audience as deliberate avoidance of the entirely unanswered question. point 4 you have said "No." to my statement: 4. In fact, Inmotion are looking to do similar exclusive deals everywhere else and are open to offers from dealers (which I would guess would include Solowheel?) However, you made a status change here: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/profile/6203-king-ma-inmotion/ to advertise the Inmotion V8 (a very odd way of doing it!) In that status change you clearly state: "We -- INMOTION technologies are now looking for dealers, exclusive agencies all over the world to change the way of personal transportation, if you are interested, pls contact me at: king.ma@imscv.com i.e. (My bold and underline above) "EXCLUSIVE" = to the exclusion of all others. So you HAVE clearly stated that you are looking to create exclusive agencies around the world. I'm sorry, but you are doing yourself and Inmotion no favours at all by appearing to resort to lies and avoidance. A real pity as I really like the Inmotion V8 but I wouldn't touch the Solowheel Glide 3 at its price.
  10. Firstly - welcome to the forum, you should find plenty of information to help you here. secondly, please ensure you post in the correct section - this was posted in "forum rules" which it clearly is nothing to do with. I've moved it to "Kingsong" Thirdly, this has been asked before - please take a look in the Kingsong section, you will probably find the answer you are looking for.
  11. At the end of the day, what really makes for regulation is lobbying, lobbying and more lobbying. What country, just as an example, would really worry about raw milk being dangerous but happily allow its citizens to have guns and knives of type that can only be used as weapons (I.e. Where they cannot even be justified as for hunting, etc.) answer: a country with a powerful gun lobby. It happens in every country, famously when the car first appeared in the UK, Parliament legislated that it could only be driven if a man with a red warning flag was walking in front of it because it was so dangerous. This had absolutely nothing to do with any danger (after all a coach and 4 horses was a damn sight faster and less controllable) it had everything to do with the strong railways lobby in Parliament who saw the car as a threat.
  12. You could well be right, I suspect that happens an awful lot. Bear in mind that the max speed of the Ninebot C is only around 16km/h so it is reasonable to assume that this motor has been wound for torque not speed, I.e. Whatever controller you use on it, it may not go much above 16km/h before the torque becomes dangerously low for any bumps you may hit. You may need to also increase the voltage to go much faster or rewind the motor, both of those options would have you in very unknown territory. You would certainly need to parallel up additional battery cells i.e. To at least 16S2P in order that the battery can supply the current requirements of higher speed - considering only the battery, 16S2P ought to be good for up to 25km/h, any higher really needs 16S4P or more. However, if the motor is wound for torque and has a low maximum RPM it is going to take more than a parallel battery and faster controller. Still, it does no harm to anything more than your wallet to experiment as long as you wear good protective gear.
  13. OK, @King Ma - INMOTION, replies above seem to me to be as clear as mud. My understanding from reading the above is as follows - feel free to correct me if I've got any of it wrong: No there will not be any new EUC's at the show! There will only be a really innovative new way to control an e-skateboard (thought control perhaps 😜) The "Rumour" bit is only in reference to the rest of the world (well I was playing devil's advocate saying it) The Solowheel deal is a done deal in the US. In fact, Inmotion are looking to do similar exclusive deals everywhere else and are open to offers from dealers (which I would guess would include Solowheel?) Did I mention there will be a REALLY innovative way to control an e-skateboard. Nobody can resist the great God Shane - all hail and bow down unto him.
  14. Well I really didn't believe that the British Government was sooooo far sighted. They brought out an act in 1835 that covered motorised bicycle's, tricycles and quadracycles the best part of 30 years before the bike existed and probably 75+ years before it was motorised - wow! Perhaps a quote from: http://www.roadswerenotbuiltforcars.com/1835highwayact/ below will give the true story. What is particularly interesting are the statements: "at first, bicycles had no legal status, no legal right to be on either roads or footpaths." "Cyclists were the newest user of the public highway and could easily be banned, nationally as well as locally." Does that not sound EXACTLY where we now are with Personal Electric Vehicles. Clearly we are going to need a National or even International organisation very like the CTC to have any chance of gaining legal status. Have a read of the quote below - it makes very interesting comparison to today in our world: The 1835 act didn’t mention bicycles (pedal propelled bikes weren’t developed until the late 1860s) and so, at first, bicycles had no legal status, no legal right to be on either roads or footpaths. Since its foundation in 1878, the Cyclists’ Touring Club has fought tooth and nail to secure highway rights for cyclists. The CTC was founded to: The council of the CTC wanted cyclists to be seen as responsible citizens and it invoked the “golden rule”, the do-unto-others prescription: Cyclists were the newest user of the public highway and could easily be banned, nationally as well as locally. In 1878, the year when the CTC was founded, the case of Taylor v. Goodwin was pivotal. Mr. Justice Mellor and Mr. Justice Lush, sitting in banco in the Queen’s Bench Division, held that bicyclists were liable to the pains and penalties imposed by the 1835 Highway Act. The case had been brought against a Mr Taylor who had been charged for “riding furiously” down Muswell Hill in London, knocking down a pedestrian in the process. His defence argued that as a bicycle wasn’t defined as a carriage in the 1835 Act there was no case to answer. The plea was disregarded and Taylor was fined. The case was appealed and justices Mellor and Lush ruled that bicycles were henceforth to be considered carriages under the law. This was bad for Taylor, good for cyclists in general. It meant bicycles, for the first time, had a legal status. Described as carriages, they had full legal rights to pass and repass along highways (and highways are not just ‘roads’, they’re carriageways, footpaths, bridleways, everything).
  15. Done! I THINK this discussion had turned into the pros and cons of the PLEV regulations so I've created that as a topic. I might, of course by wrong - but I'm damn sure it had nothing to do with the new Ninebot!