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  1. 34 points
    Hello everybody, have fun! It was a lot of fun for me to do it, and a good motivation to heal my broken arm during this summer. Thanks to all the people who organize this contest. Hirsute
  2. 31 points
    There is a similar topic on the Russian EUC forum, and it is gaining popularity due to the frequent contributions of outstanding EUC artist - @Дед62. I got his permission to re-post his work here in the hope that it may inspire other artists and will extend the gallery of our favorite gadget. I believe you will enjoy this creative work. Feel free to post in this topic any other image which you consider to be relevant to "EUC art" Happy EUC Sailor Tricks With Violin Taxi Winter Evening With The Wheel Ambulance Delivery Battle of Kulikovo (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Kulikovo) Parade Beach Towing Services Man and His Friend Icarus Bogatyrs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viktor_Vasnetsov) comments from left to right: - ... what a mess... - ... and where is your power plug, Popovitch? ... - ... mongols fricking stole it again... Medieval Tournament London 1920 The Moving Guy Burlaks (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barge_Haulers_on_the_Volga) all praises go to @Дед62
  3. 31 points
  4. 30 points
    Hi Everyone, here is my submission for the contest. My Dad has even let me have my own profile to enter the movie Hope you like it.
  5. 27 points
    EDIT: As promised I added two more tires to the comparison – 5. Chao Yang H-5167 and 6. CST E-Bike PRO. You can find the description, video, scores and final conclusion below. As some of you may know from my first post in Inmotion thread, I have recently bought my first wheel - Inmotion V5F+. After learning how to ride the wheel, I started using it for daily commute to work and going around the city. I am absolutely thrilled by the wheel, but after few hundred kilometers and some strange and unexpected behaviour I started to doubt the tire that came with it. Therefore I bought 3 other 14 inch tires and made this little comparison that I would like to share with all that might be interested and could find it useful: DESCRIPTION: 1. Hota Tyre Slick, soft rubber tire, with very simple and shallow tread. This was the tire that came with my wheel and quite soon after learning to ride I became suspicious that this might not be very good tire. It could be a good tire but only for asphalt without any surface imperfections. Pros: very manoeuvrable and has a really good grip on good asphalt surface. Not bumpy when jumping down from reasonable heights. Low roll resistance. Cons: it REALY (!) likes to misbehave when you have any vertical lines or deformations along your route, you are immediately “railed”. This might be because when it warms up it gets “mushy” and the slick surface probably seeps into the deformations on the road. Uncomfortable when bumping into curbs. Before I tried other tires I thought that I maybe don't know how to handle the curbs because my knees sometimes hurt after longer rides. Now I know that is not the case because I never experienced this with other tires. For some reason this tire was also unable to hold the pressure above 40psi. I would pump it to 45psi and after few kilometers it would be back to 40. I used the same inner tube on all tires I tested. 2. CST Rhino King This is new model from CST with “puncture protection” and the most expensive electric bike tire I could find on Alibaba/Aliexpress/Taobao, so I thought it might be good. It is by far the most hard / rigid tire of the whole bunch, with relatively complex and very pronounced tread. This would be a very good tire if not for one fatal flaw. Pros: Stable during straight riding, good grip both on asphalt and gravel, quite comfortable when bumping into curbs, has puncture protection. Cons: Well this tire has one fatal combination for the EUC – it is very hard and it has such a steep fall-off on the tread that it is almost unreasonably difficult to control during leaning left or right. When you ride straight with only small left or right course changes it is perfect, but when you need to make any little bit more aggressive turn or lean into one side, you really have to work to keep the wheel from falling down :-( 3. Schwalbe Big Apple So called “balloon” tire, from well known Schwalbe brand. Simple and shallow but dense tread on soft and almost slick rubber surface. This tire has different construction from the other tires, with soft, paper thin side walls from different material (think its kevlar reinforced?) and is very deformable when not inflated. Many sources say that it has to be inflated to minimum of 55psi when used on EUC or otherwise you risk damage to the side walls, so I tested it both on 45psi (like other tires) and on 55psi. This is the only tire with slightly lower width – 14x2.0 (others are 14x2.125) Pros: Best tire for bumping into curbs and amortising any kind of bumps, especially when inflated to 45psi, but even on 55psi it’s still the best in this regard. Very good grip on asphalt. Relatively good directional stability, especially considering the shallow tread and soft surface. Low rolling resistance. Cons: Bit bumpy when jumping down from curbs, not the best grip on gravel. There is also potential damage to side walls (as reported by dmethwin on Firewheel thread). I travelled 80km on this tire and even after this low mileage there was some black dusty “residue” coming off the side walls when I dismounted the tire from the wheel. Not certain how this would influence safety in the long run. 4. Chao Yang H-5146 Tire from harder rubber, but not like CST Rhino King, about half as hard. Pronounced and complex tread. Pros: Most stable tire of all tested on any surface, it just goes where you want it to go without any unexpected surprises. Inmotion V5F+ is a very agile small wheel, which sometimes represented a challenge for relatively inexperienced driver like me (total of 800km in 45 days) when faced with nasty road anomalies , but this tire gives it another dimension in stability without compromising manoeuvrability! Very good directional stability and handling of vertical anomalies on the asphalt surfaces. Good grip both on asphalt and gravel. Cons: Could be better when bumping into curbs, but this is not a real con, only wishful thinking after being spoiled by bump amortisation performance of the Schwalbe Big Apple, which is the only tire out of the tested ones that is better in this regard. This tire has quite pronounced grip and therefore two slick tires have a little bit lower rolling resistance. 5. Chao Yang H-5167 Medium soft tire with added puncture protection layer. Very complex and relatively pronounced tread. Pros: This tire forced me to rethink the score table. I expected something quite similar to Chao Yang H-5146 just with added puncture protection, and although these two tires share many good characteristics, this is in some aspects entirely different beast. In one word – SPEED – this thing rolls like crazy, I was actually convinced that my V5F+ somehow restored to the lower speed limit after the tire change because I have never before reached 25km/h speed limit and tiltback so easily. And the best thing is that it manages to maintain almost all of that wonderful control and stability that H-5146 exhibits. Great handling of anomalies on the road, good impact absorption when bumping into curbs, not bumpy while jumping… and on top all of that it has additional puncture protection layer. Cons: Slightly less (5-10%) controllable than H-5146, probably due to crazy good rolling resistance 6. CST E-Bike Pro If I am not mistaken, this is the tire that usually comes with Kingsong and Gotway wheels (although I can't say how it behaves in sizes other than 14 inch !). Medium soft rubber, pronounced tread. I just had to test at least one more CST tire to have something from another serious manufacturer as a reference to compare to the two Chao-Yang’s. This tire is made of different rubber compound, it’s not super soft but it sticks like crazy, reminds me of the winter car tires. It is also the only one of the tested tires that screeches on the glossy surfaces like marble tiles and those surfaces in shopping mall garages. Pros: Good rolling resistance, great grip on asphalt and good on gravel, fabulous handling of curbs and jumps (very close to Schwalbe Big Abble, and that is a balloon tire -could be that rubber compound?) Cons: Slightly sharper fall-off from the center of the tread to the sides – not nearly as unusable like on the CST Rhino King, but you can still feel it, especially when compared to the Chao-Yang’s. This makes it bit less controllable and sometimes “jerky”. Although it has good grip on the gravel, you have to work more due to that fall-off to keep it under control when wheel bumps around on the uneven surface. I am probably just spoiled by Chao-Yangs by now… VISUAL COMPARISON: SCORE: Tire brand / type Hota Tyre CST Rhino King Schwalbe Big Apple Chao Yang H-5146 Chao Yang H-5167 CST E-Bike Pro Size 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.00 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.125 Ride Comfort 8 8 10 10 10 10 Control 10 2 9 10 9 7 Grip Asphalt 10 8 8 10 10 10 Grip Gravel 4 8 6 8 8 8 Impact absorption 5 8 10 9 9 10 Directional stability 2 10 8 10 10 10 Temperature stability 4 10 10 10 10 10 Rolling resistance 9 8 10 8 10 9 TOTAL: 52 62 71 75 76 74 I am not expert on tires and all of the above are only my personal impressions and conclusions after using these tires on my EUC. All of the tires are tested on the same Inmotion V5F+ and with the same inner tube (Tube brand is Chao Yang). I tried each of the tires for at least 80km. CONCLUSION: Chao-Yang H-5167 is the tire that stays on my wheel. It’s simply best overall and checks practically all important “boxes”. H-5146 would be best beginners tire, it’s so controllable, relaxed and forgiving. Both CST tires have great rubber compound, but the tread has this pronounced center section and then somewhat steep fall-off, which results in less smooth experience and requires more work to control the wheel.
  6. 26 points
    I've been trying to get my head around how the motor control in EUCs (or in general with 3-phase brushless direct current motors, BLDC's) works, and been meaning to write this post for a good while (a "raw" -version of this has actually sat on my hard drive for months). @Henrik Olsen's question about the mosfets sparked me to finally get around to quickly read this through, make a few small additions and corrections and finally "publish" it here in the forums... So here goes, hopefully I corrected most of the typos etc, and it reads fairly easily, it's been written in parts every now and then, and sometimes I might jump from one topic to another a bit abruptly. I'm an amateur when it comes to this stuff, so I might use some "unorthodox" terminology and there could be many mistakes, factual errors and misunderstandings on my part, so I wish that the people who really know this stuff could chime in and correct if and when I've gone wrong. There are loads and loads of sources around the internet with more precise (and complex) articles and documents about how the motors work and how they're driven (or can be driven), but hopefully this could give a fairly good (albeit simplified) explanation of the basics of the motor drives. I'll try to keep it simple (most of the time) and skip over a lot of things like inductance, magnetic fields, different motor builds, mathematics, and most of the details on electronics as I'd likely just get those parts wrong anyway , and mostly concentrate on a basic overview of how the motor is being driven (or at least what I understand of it) Probably other people and sources can explain these parts better and in much more detail, if anyone's more interested. To start off, I'm not going to talk about 3-phase brushless motors, but a basic brushed DC motors ("1-phase") at first, as it's easier to understand the basics of the half-bridges through such an example. I've also seen (small) 3-phase motors sold with "1-phase" connections (just power + and -, and maybe PWM-input or not even that), where the controlling circuitry is inside the motor, so this could be such a case too. In a brushed motor, as the name suggests, there are parts called "brushes" that actually have mechanical connection to the coils in the rotor (the moving part of the motor). The coils actually act as electromagnets, and if you've played with magnets some time in your life, you know that opposite poles (north and south) attract each other and similar poles (north and north or south and south) repel each other. Simplified, as the brushes slide across conductors in the turning rotor, they cause current to flow through the winding coils ("energizing the coils"), which creates a magnetic field ("north"-pole in one and "south"-pole in the other) that keeps the motor turning in one direction, as the coils attract or repulse the (usually permanent) magnets in the stator (the stationary part of the motor). There are splits in the "ring" where the brushes touch, so the brushes will alternate between touching different "ends" of the coils of the motor, causing the magnetic field of the coils turn on and off and to change polarity (depending which brush they're touching or no brush at all) to keep the rotor moving as the poles of the permanent magnets attract / repel them. If the motor would need to turn in opposite direction, the polarities of the wires connected to the brushes could be changed to the other way around, ie. you'd change the + and - wires going into the motor to the opposite connections. No complex electronics are needed to drive the motor (at least in one direction), simply plugging it into a power source will do. The downside is that the mechanical brushing causes friction, noise and the brushes wear down, so they need to be changed every now and then when they wear out. But how we (slowly) get from here to BLDC-motor control is a fairly simple circuit called H-bridge (not a half-bridge, a H-bridge). Wikipedia explains an H-bridge simply as: A H bridge is an electronic circuit that enables a voltage to be applied across a load in either direction. These circuits are often used in robotics and other applications to allow DC motors to run forwards and backwards. A H-bridge could be built using just four (mechanical) switches: So when switches S1 and S4 are closed, the VCC (+) and GND (-) of the power source are connected across the motor, running it in one direction. Open those switches and close S2 and S3, and the polarities will be opposite, running the motor in the other direction. Making the upper ("high-side") and lower ("low-side") switch (be it a mosfet or BJT or whatever) on the same side of the H-bridge conduct at the same time (like S1 & S3 or S2 and S4 above) would cause what is called a "shoot-through", ie. the current won't flow through the motor, but instead directly passes through the switches, causing a short circuit (only resistance in the current path is that of the switch-elements and the wires). Now, using mechanical switches isn't that much more handy than just switching the wires in the opposite connections. That's why the H-bridge is usually built from transistors. Transistors can be controlled electronically and used as high-speed (non-mechanical) switches, so you basically use just two states for them: fully conducting (open) and not conducting (closed, although sometimes you could see these terms used vice versa, ie open = not conducting and closed = conducting, I'll just use terms "conducting" or "on" and "not conducting" or "off" to prevent any misunderstandings). Actually, transistors can be used in-between these two extreme states to make them conduct only partially, for things like (audio-)signal amplifying, but that's outside the scope of this, as only switching is needed for motor driving. Depending on the type of transistor, the conductivity over it can be controlled either by current or voltage. In the below animation, bipolar junction transistors (BJTs) are used for and H-bridge, with signals coming from INA and INB to switch the different transistors between conducting and not conducting. Our wheels use what are called MOSFETs (metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor, a certain type of transistors) instead of BJTs. Mosfets are voltage-controlled, unlike bipolar junction transistors, which are current-controlled (but still need a certain amount of voltage to overcome the PN-junction... Yeah, I won't go into that here :P). There are more different types of transistors (J-Fets, IGBT's...), but I won't get to them here, as I only have some experience with BJTs and mosfets, and the wheels use mosfets anyway. So, now we could have electronical directional control over a (brushed) motor by turning on two transistor in opposite sides of the bridge, one on the high-side and one on the low-side. The next step is to control the speed of the motor (don't worry, I'll get to BLDC's and how this all relates to them in a while). A motor also acts as a generator, it actually produces it's own voltage when it's turning. This is called back-EMF (back electromotive force) or BEMF in some sources. When the motor is not turning, the back-EMF is 0 volts, and when it's running, it produces a voltage that raises linearly with the rotational speed of the motor. When the motor's turning in the "correct" direction caused by the voltage from the batteries, back-EMF polarity will be opposite to the voltage from the battery direction. So, if you connect a battery with some voltage X to the brushed motor, if will start turning and reach some speed. If you take a battery with twice the voltage, 2 * X, it should rotate at twice that speed (assuming it can overcome the increasing friction and won't burn due to overvoltage/current etc etc ). This is probably a good point to mention about the current in the motor. When the battery is first connected to a non-moving motor, the motor isn't turning and the back-EMF is thus 0V. There's a voltage difference between the battery and the back-EMF, and it's this difference that causes the current to flow. Simplified, there's always some resistance in the circuit (for example the motors' internal resistance from the coil-wires, other wires, connectors etc), and current equals voltage divided by resistance. So still keeping it simple, as the resistance stays (or here is assumed to stay) the same, the bigger the difference between the back-EMF voltage and the voltage from the battery, the higher the current. If there's a big difference, the current will be higher, if there's a small difference, the current will be lower, and if there's no difference (battery voltage = back-EMF), there's no current. Current is the thing causing torque in the motor, so when the battery with a constant voltage is first connected and the motor is not turning, the difference between these two voltages is at its greatest. This will cause high current to flow, causing high torque and getting the motor moving. As the motor speeds up, the current drops as the difference between the voltages becomes smaller (back-EMF goes up), and the current (and thus the torque) of the motor drop. Ideally, once the motor reaches the speed where the back-EMF equals the battery voltage, the current and the torque would drop to 0 and the motor would be "free wheeling". In reality, the back-EMF is probably slightly below the battery voltage, as the motor has to overcome friction from bearings etc, and there's some current always flowing when running at steady speed. Some motors state constant factors called k-factors that can be used to calculate speed from voltage and torque from current, as they're both linear. Back to the speed control. As the speed of the motor is relational to the back-EMF and the motor changes speed when back-EMF and applied voltage do not "match", we can actually control the speed of the motor by controlling the voltage applied to it. You could use a potentiometer (a variable resistor) to drop the voltage before the H-bridge, but that just wastes power by burning it off as heat in the potentiometer (which itself might burn if it needs to drop a lot of voltage), and you'd have to control it by hand. This is where the fast switching ability of the transistors steps in. You might first think that "partially" switching on the transistor could be used to control voltage, but it's not a very precise method (to my knowledge) with motors and also wastes power in the transistor (again, actually heating up the transistor, which could lead to it burning). Instead of trying to control the voltage by allowing the transistor to conduct only partially, a scheme known as pulse width modulation (PWM) is used. I'll try to explain this as the best I can. PWM is a technique to produce a square wave signal (like those seen above) where the relation between the "on" time (full voltage) and "off" time (zero voltage) can be controlled. During one period, for some part of the period the full voltage is applied, and for the rest of the period, no voltage is applied. Controlling the "width" of the on-partion (full voltage pulse) of the period you get different "duty cycles". 100% duty cycle means that the voltage is at the full value throughout the period and 0% means there's no voltage in the entire course of the period. A single period is usually very short, and the frequency of the PWM is measured in hertz (1/s), meaning how many periods per second there are. Motor controls usually use "low" frequencies for PWM up to some tens of kilohertz (for example, 20kHz = 20000 hertz = 20000 times per second, about the upper limit of very good human hearing range). 20000 times a second might not sound "low", but in electronics-side, the "ITU"-specification for frequencies calls 3kHz-30kHz -range VLF = "very low frequency" When "sufficient" voltage is applied at the "gate" of the mosfet (that's one of the three pins in the mosfets, the other two are "drain" and "source", the functions of these are similar to base, emitter and collector in bipolar junction transistors), the mosfet will allow current to flow between it's drain and source. Depending on the voltage difference between the gate and source, the mosfet will either be fully off (not conducting), then start to partially conduct, and once the voltage difference is "large enough", it will fully conduct. I won't go into gate charges and how to go with driving high-side N-channels here... Now, if we "drive" the gate of the mosfet with a PWM pulse (let's just assume that the on-part of the pulse is of "sufficient voltage", ok? ), the mosfet will conduct during the on-part (full voltage) of the PWM-period, and stop conducting during the off-part of the period. In reality, there is also some delay ("rise and fall times") between the transistor starting to fully conduct after the higher voltage is applied and before it stops conducting after the voltage drops to zero, but for the sake of simplicity, just assume it turns on and off pretty much instantly. So, as the mosfet is switching between fully conducting and not conducting, the motor will get pulses of voltage applied to it. Again simplified, with the switching happening at a high frequency, what the motor "sees" as the incoming voltage is the "average voltage" between the "on"-part and "off"-part of the PWM-period. If the full voltage would be for example 5V, and the on-part of the period would last half of the period, and the off-part would last the second half of the period, the voltage applied to the motor would be half of the full voltage, 2.5V. Using the duty-cycle, it's then easy to calculate the voltages, using a fraction percent-value (100% = 1.0, 50% = 0.5, 10% = 0.1 etc): 100% duty cycle: 5V * 1.0 = 5V 80% duty cycle: 5V * 0.8 = 4V 60% duty cycle: 5V * 0.6 = 3V 40% duty cycle: 5V * 0.4 = 2V 20% duty cycle: 5V * 0.2 = 1V 0% duty cycle: 5V * 0.0 = 0V Being able to change the duty-cycle, and thinking of the average voltage, you can create more complex waveforms than simple square wave. The below image shows a sine-wave -like voltage applied by changing the pulse width between the periods: The thick black line is the voltage applied to the motor, the thinner lines show the PWM-pulse going up and down, at different duty cycles in each period. Nevermind the horizontal line in the middle, it's not related to this. So, I hope from this you can see how using an H-bridge with 4 mosfets can be used to control the direction of the motor (by using "high-side" and "low-side" -mosfets from two opposite sides of the H-bridge) and how the speed of the motor in said direction can be controlled by quickly switching the transistors on and off, to apply different voltages to the motor. Actually, there's current flowing only when the transistors are conducting, the motor connections are "floating" during the off-state, and thus, no current (or very little) is flowing. So actually the motor's alternating between (almost) free-wheeling and motoring, but this happens fast, and "mass is slow", so it has very little effect (you won't notice it). And now, to the "real deal", the 3-phase BLDC motor, which is what (at least most if not all) our wheels use. BLDC: Both the above animations show an "inrunner" -BLDC motor. It means that the "inside" of the motor is rotor (the part that turns) with the permanent magnets. In our wheels, the structure is actually the opposite: the tire on the outer rim of the motor turns, while the stator is in the middle (an "outrunner"-motor). AFAIK, same principles of control apply to both, although the motor characteristics might be slightly different. http://i9.aijaa.com/b/00867/13659072.jpg The basic idea is still the same as in the brushed motor driving: magnetic fields of the coils are used to attract / repel the permanent magnets. In the brushed motor, the brushes handled energizing the coils and it was simply enough to plug a power source into the two connectors of the motor. Here we have three connectors, that then are connected together inside the motor, there are two common patterns, the "wye" (or "y" or "star")-connection and the "delta" (or "triangle")-connection: Personally, I must admit that I don't know the pros or cons of either configuration. To my knowledge, both can be run with similar principles, although the commutation order might differ(?) The motors in EUCs have much more coils and poles than in the usual pictures, I believe this is to give a more precise control over the motor position, ie. finer control. Basically, the upside of a brushless motor is less friction (only mechanical connections are in the bearings), and thus less audible noise (unless you can hear the PWM-frequency like in some wheels ), longer lifetime and (I believe) higher efficiency, although this may vary. The downside is that a much more complex method of driving the motor is needed compared to brushed motors. You can't just plug a battery over two phases and expect the motor to turn. It could maybe twitch a little if the magnetic fields of the coils happen to attract to/repulse from the nearest permanent magnets, and then stay there stationary, all the while heating up the coils and, if the battery/other power supply can supply enough current, probably sooner or later burning them or the power source. So don't do that. To drive a 3-phase motor, you need to energize the phases (and thus the coils) in correct order and at correct time (well, at least some motors should start eventually turning and "catch up" just by energizing the phases in correct order at stable frequency, but that's not really "controlled" way of driving it). For controlling three phases, three half-bridges (not H-bridges) are used: Looks pretty similar to the H-bridge before? That's because a half-bridge is also known as "half-H-bridge". Each of those two mosfets on the high- and low-side form one half-bridge (half of a H-bridge). With three phases, you need three half-bridges (or "one and a half H-bridges"? ) The reason I started with the brushed motors and the H-bridge is that if you understood the simpler H-bridge (how it can be used to control the direction and the speed of the motor), the same principles work here: the speed/current of the motor can be controlled with PWM and direction of the motor can be controlled based on which two phases are conducting at a time (high-side from one bridge, low-side from the other). The added complexity is that the phases need to be energized in correct order as the motor turns. For this, the controller needs to know the position of the rotor. Typically, EUCs seem to use Hall-effect sensors (Hall-sensors) for detecting the rotor position (there are other ways, like rotary encoders, but I don't think they're used in EUCs). Wikipedia states that: A Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications. A three sensor setup seems to be typical for our wheels and BLDCs in general. Many BLDC-driving documents / articles give out the commutation order of the phases either as a table or as a graph showing the sensor on/off -states and the high/low/floating -states for the phases (for one direction): So there are 6 different "states" (or combinations) of the bridges. The order of states can be different for different motors, so if you try to build your own motor controller, it might take some trial and error to find the correct sequence (and then reverse to run it in the other direction). Also, a brief period of both mosfet "off" (not conducting) is needed when the conducting mosfet on the bridge is changed from high to low (or vice versa), as the mosfet gates need to be "discharged" before the voltage drops below the conducting threshold. This is called "dead time insertion" (DTI), ie. a brief period is waited before continuing operation, otherwise there's a risk of bridge shoot-through (the other mosfet hasn't fully stopped conducting, and the other starts conducting -> potential short circuit through the bridge between battery plus and minus). In addition to the position, the hall-sensors can be used to measure the speed (how fast the sensor states are switching from one position to another) and direction of the motor (the order in which the sensors switch on and off). Somebody also suggested that after certain speed, the EUCs could actually switch to sensorless speed/position-detection (maybe the hall-sensors don't switch up and down fast enough after certain speed?), using the back-EMF voltage from the floating phase to induce the rotation speed. I haven't studied the subject much, so I won't go into it, but I did learn that this requires fairly precise timing (otherwise you'll get false readings). Earlier I mentioned that the voltage difference between the batteries (well, actually the average from the PWM-pulses, when using that for control) and the back EMF is what causes the current to flow. Now, as current causes the torque of the motor, and higher torque means higher acceleration (faster change in speed), the applied voltage can also be used to control torque. Larger voltage difference, larger current, larger torque. So in addition to controlling the speed, the wheels must control the torque to keep us from falling down. The final piece of the puzzle for self-balancing is not actually in the motor, but of course the gyroscope/accelerometer in the mainboard (to my knowledge, the accelerometer is there only to make reading the gyroscope more accurate, I've understood it tends to wander and the acceleration info can be used to correct this in the filters). In principle, the idea is simple: the gyroscope is used detect the pitch (tilting back and forth for acceleration/deceleration) and roll (shutting down after falling on its side) of the wheel: When the wheel starts tilting forwards, the motor must be accelerated to a faster forward speed (or get moving if stationary, or decelerate if moving backwards) to keep it balanced. If tilting backwards, the motor must be slowed down to prevent falling backwards (when moving forwards). There might be some form of "dead-zone" allowing the wheel to tilt a little bit backwards or forwards before the motor reacts (one way of doing "soft"-riding mode), also some wheels allow the pedals tilt more when turning in slow speed (so probably they use the speed-, pitch- & roll-information for this). Of course, the real deal is the balancing logics and fine tuning of the acceleration/speed control/dead-zone/allowing tilts when the wheel is turning (ie. the roll is different from zero) etc. That's what makes different wheels different to ride, and probably is one of the most, if not the most important asset of any single wheel-company, as that's what really distinguishes it from other similar wheels and gives the riding "feel" of the wheel. There are a ton of more technical details I've skipped over above, like different and more complicated ways the PWM-drive can be done (sine-wave driving, space-vectors, field-oriented control, whathaveyou...), motor inductances, inductive spikes, etc etc., mostly because it goes beyond the scope of "basics", but also because I'd probably get a ton of details plain wrong But, were not really finished yet with the basic motor control: there is (at least) one more thing: braking (yeah, that's nice to have), namely, regenerative braking. There are multiple ways to brake an electric motor: you could use mechanical brakes (yeah, well, not really with self-balancing wheels ), let it free-wheel to a stop (with self-balancing wheels, not really an option either), use resistive braking (which causes tons of heat that must be dissipated), "plugging-type" braking, where the motor control actually tries to drive the motor backwards (causing what is called "slipping"), dynamic/"rheostatic" braking (of which there are actually multiple different types of) and finally, regenerative braking. I haven't actually delved that deep into braking the motor, especially the dynamic/rheostatic -types, but I do know a little bit about the basics of regenerative braking. The best fairly brief explanation of regenerative braking I've found is this: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56186/how-can-i-implement-regenerative-braking-of-a-dc-motor Although it talks of a single-phase DC motor and H-bridge, I believe the same principle can be (and is being) used for 3-phase motors also, just that the phases must be switched in "correct order" and correct timing. For a much better explanation than mine, you probably should read through the accepted answer in that question. As said before, the motor also acts as a generator/dynamo due to the back-EMF induced in it while it's turning. When you get moving with the wheel, you actually gain "kinetic energy" (E = mv2 or something along those lines?); that is, the chemical energy in the battery packs converts into electric energy, which then converts into heat (thermal energy) and motion (kinetic energy). Although we often talk about "energy losses" or "power losses", energy never actually disappears. The "losses" just mean that part of the energy turns into something we don't want (like heat instead of motion). But anyway, some part of the energy dissipated from the batteries has turned into motion (and some part has been "lost" to other forms of energy), but now you need to slow down or stop. Again, energy never disappears completely, so when you brake, the motor actually has to do "dump" the extra kinetic energy somewhere, it can't just disappear into thin air (well, technically, it CAN disappear into thin air, in the form of heat ). Purely resistive braking is a bit troublesome due to high power that must be dissipated, so to do braking with resistive load, huge power resistors with large heatsinks would be needed. The basic idea of regenerative braking is (or at least seems to be, from what I've understood ;)) that low-sides of the half-bridges (probably two bridges at a time in a 3-phase motor) are conducting simultaneously, causing the current from motor to flow through them and back to the motor to brake and "charge" the magnetic fields of the motor coils, then one high-side is switched open (there could be some leakage through the high-side mosfet body-diodes?) to "shoot" off the charge (discharge the coil magnetic fields) into the battery (during which time the motor is not braking). Basically the back-EMF voltage must get (at least momentarily) higher than the battery voltage for the current to flow in "reverse" and charge up the packs. "Discharging" that into the packs, the voltage drops again, and then the low sides are opened again to brake more and charge up again. Repeating this fast, the motor is "switching" between braking and dumping the energy into the battery packs. As this is done fast (probably at the same PWM-frequency as when normally driving the motor), you feel it as constant braking (same as you do when you accelerate, you could say that the motor is actually switching "on" and "off" real fast, but the frequency is high and mass is slow, so you won't notice it). Probably (a large?) part of the energy is burned off as heat in different parts (motor coils, wiring, mosfets, even the battery cells), so it's nowhere near 100% efficient, more like "convenient" (and there is the upside that it does charge your packs, at least a little), as no extra parts are needed. The rate of deceleration (or "negative acceleration", if you will) plays a role in the amount of (momentary) power generated during braking, and there have been reports of the mosfets actually burning on mainboards during strong braking. On Vee's MCM2s, I tested "not-that-aggressive-yet-strong" -braking, and got peaks above 2kW (if memory serves). Even if Gotway has that huge 1.5-2x error on the current measurements, it's still above 1kW at peak (but only for a moment). I don't know how high it could go with lots of mass and really strong braking, but I guess "pretty high" Apparently high enough to fry something, if you look at some experiences here. Well, that's pretty much my short(ish) explanation of the motor-drive... I was going to write about the details of things much more, but decided against it, as it would probably make this too long and there are many, many things I'm not that sure about
  7. 25 points
    Today I received my Monster (I was expecting it next Monday). Shipped from Speedyfeet on Sunday to California. Can't beat those delivery times. So you can see me with my Monster and 1300wh ACM that I got 3 days ago. Two new wheels within a few days - I'm not sure what to do Before I continue with my Monster ride observations I feel that I need to make this statement: I hereby formally bow down to the Gotway Gods Ian (Speedyfeet) had pre-charged the Monster so when I took it out of the box (and gave myself a small hernia in the process) I had an 80% charge. That meant only one thing - an immediate test ride. I used my existing old Gotway app to configure it: 1st & 2nd alarms off and tilt-back off. It's nice that I've been able to use my original Gotway app to configure all of these wheels. And the Wheellog app (and Pebble watch connection) work perfectly with these new wheels. When I climbed aboard (an apt description) and started riding I thought to myself, "what have I gotten myself into"? This thing is a beast and when you first start, it feels totally unwieldy. Turning as you do with a normal wheel does nothing - it keeps going straight. Turning the Monster is all about weigh shifting and hips to shoulders. I will say that once you get use to this way of turning it is a piece of cake. I can literally turn with the same agility as my ACM, but the body movements are very different. The problem can be that as you're riding and suddenly need to turn you apply your normal turning techniques and the Monster just ignores you So after a 25 mile ride today my knees and lower legs are hurting because I kept falling back into my old ways. Clearly this will improve. But I did ride 25 miles today. After about an hour everything was really clicking and it no longer felt unwieldy. I'm probably going to run out of superlatives trying to describe my riding today. I rode a river trail that I enjoy, a park with lots of dirt/sand trails, and sidewalks in town. The Monster eats anything in its way. I'm serious. I rode over bumps, thick mud, sand, whatever. It just takes it and doesn't toss you around. Deep ruts in the trails? - the Monster laughed at them. Hitting some of them in my ACM would have thrown me from the wheel. I like to carve when I ride and that was very enjoyable with the Monster. Weaving in and out of obstacles on the sidewalks was easy. I climbed a couple of very steep inclines and there was no problem. Feels like my MSuper - you have to really lean into it and have faith that it's not going to dump you. My ACM on the other hand climbs inclines much easier. Acceleration and braking feels like the MSuper, but a tad more sluggish. Today I had one hard brake that I had to apply to avoid missing my intended turn. I managed the brake and turn successfully but it was a near miss. I think it's best to plan your brakes well ahead of time with this wheel I must say that I think the Monster has the potential to be a dangerous wheel . Why? Speed. Prior to the Monster I felt that I had the fastest wheels available (ACM and MSuper). I typically ride my ACM between 17 and 20 mph, sometimes going up to 22 for short periods. Feels very fast. The Monster? It laughs at 20. Seriously! For half my ride today I would catch myself looking at my watch (Pebble) to see that I was going 22mph! For awhile I was going 25mph and here's the thing; it didn't feel dangerously fast. 25! I was feeling very comfortable going 22mph whereas on the ACM it feels like you're pushing it. The Monster is so stable and has so much reserve power that it's a pure joy to ride fast. I was riding 20mph on some trails! I never heard the 3rd alarm today. So I have to say if you love going fast and eating up any road or trail in your way you will love the Monster. I think it's the most amazing wheel ever produced. I'm very serious. No, I wouldn't recommend it as your only wheel because lets face it, it's a beast. But in the context of trail & street riding it's amazingly fun. I can't wait to take it up into the mountains this weekend. I'll be posting a video review and ride video sometime in the next week.
  8. 25 points
    Here is the latest updated video from Jimmy and Juliana, the smooth little duo Now featuring kendama, soccer, and as a bonus: the piano stool mod! Enjoy.
  9. 24 points
    @Shoe73 @kmoon my video was not done by Inmotion, or for Inmotion. I did the video myself, like all my other videos, on my computer, with my camera, filmed by friends. If it looks like professionnal, it is because i spend hours to do it and to learn alone how to edit. There is the logo of Inmotion France because i work for them since this september and i have to put their logo on all my videos. If i do EUC with this level it's just because i train. If anyone trains 2h everyday in a little place, he will do the same. I've bought myself the music rights of my video because i wanted to. I've chosen to do the video on the very basic V5 450w 144wh to show that the important is not the wheel, but the Will and the training of the wheeler. And my goal is just to share this technique to see the EUC freestyle level growing in the world. I have began on august 2015 watching the video of Brian Thompson and Alexander Segmüller (thanks to them), and now i'm really happy when i see young people trying to do my tricks.
  10. 24 points
    I just wanted to take a second to Rant a little bit, then I'll feel better. For the past year or so, I've been a big supporter of NineBot. When people have an issue, I want to help, and I've always stood up for the brand, even when NineBot has issues. I tell perspective buyers how to buy the wheel. They make a pretty nice wheel, and mine has been flawless ever since I bought it. I've got over 500 miles on it so far. The problem really started with the NineBot P, but it gets much worse. I have a friend that bought a NineBot P and got to ride it for 2 weeks before the motherboard fried. NineBot decided to stop production of this wheel due to this problem, but they have not offered a fix as of yet. It's been MANY MANY months now, and my friend's wheel is still sitting. That's $1200 just sitting. And now, NineBot Corp announces today that they have Terminated Immediately ALL Contracts with ALL European Distributors until further notice. Some might be picked back up, and some might not. But, in the mean time, all of these distributors are now stuck with a LOT of inventory that they cannot sell with a Warranty! You see, you have to be an Official Distributor, or NineBot will not give warranty support. This is a common tactic with Large Chinese companies. They get a bunch of Distributors to buy a LOT of inventory up front, and then they drop them. The Corporation has already gotten their money, so they don't care. NineBot is worth over 80 Million Dollars, so they aren't hurting in any way. I'm sure most of you know Ian Sampson from www.SpeedyFeet.uk , he's one of the Distributors that was dropped with a few hours notice. At this point, NineBot has not told him whether he will be picked up again or not. NineBot has done this same tactic of leaving their Distributors out of the loop many times. The Distributors are being asked questions by buyers about delays, shipping times, warranty, etc, but NineBot won't answer those questions. NineBot doesn't even answer Customer's Questions when they are sent directly. They let the Distributor take all the heat! This is so unfair in so many ways! Ian is one of the Nicest people, and probably THE best Distributor NineBot has. To be treated this way is incomprehensible. He effectively put NineBot One on the Map, not only in the UK, but all over the world. He has spent thousands of hours selling the NineBot Brand and offering free advice and help along the way. He's posted almost 100 helpful Videos on YouTube to help customers of NineBot. He is probably the fastest responder to questions of anyone I've met with this many customers. And, he personally answers each and every question. I'm sorry about this long rant, but I for one will not buy another NineBot product unless Ian is Reinstated as a Official Distributor by NineBot. And even then, I'm going to have to seriously consider if I want to support this Corporation anymore. The only reason I can think of at this moment would be to help people like Ian and others so they don't loose their shirts on this raw deal. Please take a moment to write NineBot and let them know you are disappointed in their decision and you hope they bring back their most dedicated Distributors. Sales@Segway.com Sales@NineBot.com Sales@Segway.Eu.com If you've gotten this far, thank you for listening... I did not talk to Ian before writing this, so I hope I have not hurt any feelings, but I felt it needed to be said.
  11. 23 points
    The story of how I and two fellow wheel riders became lost in the mountains and lived to ride another day. As I begin this, it must be said that I'm the one with poor judgement in this story. Well intentioned, but... The Cogswell Dam, as I've previously written about, is a gorgeous area to ride an EUC. It's basically a canyon ride on the northern side of a mountain ridge. I've ridden it twice before. Throughout this region are countless trails, large and small. One of the most well known is a four wheel drive capable trail called the Rincon Shortcut OHV Trail. It stretches along the southern side of the ridge that is shared with the Cogswell Dam. The Rincon trail-head starts about an 1/8 mile south of the Cogswell Dam trail-head. Up in the mountains there is a connection between the two, and that's what I've been itching to try. Complete the approximately 30 mile loop that joins the two trails. So I coordinated a group ride for Saturday morning, and my long time riding buddy @jrkline was the first to commit to the ride and not too long afterwards @Ando Melkonyan eagerly committed to the adventure (he had his newly acquired ACM). We were to leave by 9:30am, traversing the southern (Rincon) route first, taking advantage of the coolness of the morning air. Eventually we would meet up with the Cogswell Dam trail high up in the mountains and return by way of the shaded northern trail to avoid the extreme heat of the day. Oh, and today was the peak of a mini heat wave in Southern California, where the temperature was predicted to be in the low 90's. Maybe we should have brought more water. Hmmm. @abinder3 joined us at the very beginning. He didn't have time for the entire route (regardless of his reasons that was a good decision in hindsight) and therefore was just going to ride to the dam and back, about a 20 mile roundtrip. But it was nice that we could all meet at the beginning and share a few stories before we went our separate ways. In the picture above, from left to right: @abinder3 (Allen), @Ando Melkonyan, @jrkline (Jeff), and myself. Don't we look happy - if only we knew what was forthcoming I had my Monster which I had previously ridden here twice before. Jeff had the FrankenACM - I know, I know, his world famous 2040wh ACM. As would be demonstrated throughout the day, his ACM never fails. It may not be pretty but it's a faithful workhorse. And Ando brought his 3 week old ACM with a 2-1/2" tire that he managed to fit on the wheel. He had to cut away parts of the shell to make it fit, but he turned it into a really nice trail machine. We finally began our journal and after a few hundred feet wished Allen well as he exited for his trail head. We continued on the two lane highway until we came upon the locked trail gate, representing the entrance to our grand adventure. After bypassing the gate we began our journey in earnest. On a previous outing to Cogswell Dam I had ridden this part of the trail for a mile or so and was hoping the whole trail would be as I remembered. And for the most part it was, perhaps a little steeper in sections. But remember that this is a four wheel drive trail so certainly any path that a truck can take we can tackle easily on our EUCs. In this video you can see me struggling a bit as the ACMs zoom past me After a few miles of steady uphill climbing I was beginning to think that I should have taken my ACM too instead of the Monster. I've ridden my Monster a lot in the mountains now, but never for extended uphill pushes. We were on a trail that was to continuously climb for over 3500 feet. And this wasn't a paved road. It was gravel and sand mixed with large rocks and various ruts. So there was a lot of maneuvering involved, slips, slides, near stalls, and periodical jump-stops for the wheels. Although I have experience with the Monster and know that it's capable of ascending any hill that the ACM is, it does so extremely slowly and with much effort. As Jeff and Ando zoomed up the trail sections with hardly any physical effort, I was in a near constant crouch and heavy lean. Plus all of the effort required to steer the 70 pound Monster ... But I was hanging in there despite the ridicule coming from my fellow riders ;-) Fairly early on we had our first crash. I must say, anybody who wants to keep their wheel pristine should never do off-road trail riding. It's a messy business. My Monster requires a wide berth and although I always have my trusty helmet mirror, I have some rather large blind spots. Jeff was apparently unaware of these facts. As he was overtaking me on my left I was slowing sliding left. Our pedals locked and in the next moment we were both sprawled on the ground. Jeff's bloodied forearm and my bruised ego provided good entertainment for Ando :-) Here's a couple pictures of the aftermath: We continued the long climb, but I was getting tired. At one point Ando offered me his ACM while he pushed forward with the Monster. And then he proceeded to demonstrate a new technique (to me) for getting the Monster up hills fast. Jeff and I had great fun watching this and I think Ando was having fun to. It looked like he was riding a horse, but indeed it really moved fast. When I started riding the Monster again I used this technique and it really helped. But it was still hard on the body because of the lean, and steering was proving difficult. Eventually I discovered that if I was in a squatting position and squeezing the wheel between my knees, AND using my knees to force the wheel forward, the Monster really moved. This was exhausting however. We were still having a good time, enjoying each others crashes and Ando's music Somewhere near two hours we finally arrived near the peak. I was beat. Now we needed to find the trailhead that led back down to the Cogswell Dam. We came across a lone mountain bike rider that pointed us in the general direction that we needed to take to begin the descent to Cogswell Dam. In the following thumbnail you can see the Dam far below us. Here is where I made the fateful mistake of picking the wrong trail. It went down and looked to be in the general direction, so let's go for it. I really should have spent as long as I needed to be sure, but in the back of my mind I figured if it was wrong we'd probably realize it fairly soon and just backtrack. What I didn't take into consideration was my failing body :-( As we proceeded down this trail it slowly got sketchier and sketchier. First there were small dead falls (trees that fall across a trail) and then bigger and bigger ones where it took minutes to carry and or drag the wheel across. I was getting weaker. I had no more food and none of us had any more water. Remember that I said it was going to be in the 90's today. I felt like I was beginning to get symptoms of dehydration - shaky legs and arms and extreme fatigue. I could only ride 20 feet before I would loose control and had to stop and rest for a few minutes. By this time I had a few more rather severe falls which further hampered my ability to ride the wheel. Besides my difficulties, it had become clear that we were somewhat lost. This was certainly not the trail to the Cogswell Dam. I could simply not go further. At this point I was with Jeff. Ando had explored further along the trail and when he returned he said that he found water (we could hear a stream in the distance below). You don't know how excited I was to hear this. I felt that maybe if I got some water I may recover enough to continue at some level. Jeff took my empty water bottle and disappeared down the trail to return with water. I was feeling a bit mentally refreshed. While Jeff was away Ando and I tried to figure out exactly where we were. I had offline Google maps in my phone and a Garmin 60CS handheld navigator. BTW, GPS reception was not great within these mountains. But we eventually determined our exact location. Miles from the trail that we should have taken. I had arrived at a difficult decision. Like the sailboat captain in the middle of the ocean that grapples with the decision to press the emergency beacon, knowing that when he does so he will be rescued but his boat will be left behind, gone forever. But I knew that I could not continue back uphill to retrace our steps by a few miles and then down another 15 miles. Impossible. So I told Ando to leave me and get back to the area where we made the bad turn. In that area there was a line of site to the greater Los Angeles area and there was cell phone coverage. "Tell them that a person was suffering from exhaustion and dehydration. Call 911". Now by this point at least 15 minutes had passed and Jeff probably should have returned within 10 minutes since Ando knew the water was only 5 minutes away by wheel. But we continued to wait. While doing so Ando took my Monster and rode/carried it up the trail past a few of the sever dead-falls. And then walked back. Amazing, and as you'll learn in a bit, very important that he did so. Still no Jeff. Instead of sending Ando to look for Jeff I suggested that he go the other way, and I'll wait for him. So Ando disappeared with his ACM and I was alone in the middle of what felt like nowhere. I think it was about 3pm at this point. I lay on the ground and was anticipating a bottle of water with great joy. Maybe another fifteen minutes went by. Nothing. Then I started thinking, "Maybe something happened to Jeff. Was there an accident. Did his ACM break". I slowly started walking down the trail. 20 steps and then lay on the ground to recover. 20 steps, lay on the ground. I did this for maybe 15 minutes but realized that if he was hurt or the wheel was broken I was in no condition to help. And I had told Ando that if possible I would try and walk back to the trail junction at the top of the mountain. So I abandoned Jeff and ever so slowly started walking up hill. 20 steps, lay on the ground, ad nausea-um. I still had hopes that Jeff would return with water. I would have given away my Monster for water at that point. It really was horrible. At this incredibly slow pace I managed to get past the large dead-falls. I never would have been able to get my Monster past these obstacles in my condition. Eventually I found my Monster and could not believe how far Ando had taken it for me. I then proceeded to push it and myself up the trail, in spurts of low speed energy. A trolley handle may have helped, but just the effort of pushing the Monster and walking was too much. After maybe an hour I decided to abandon the Monster, knowing that I would never see it again. I wasn't worried about someone finding and taking it. First, nobody sane travels this impassible trail, and if someone did they wouldn't know what it was, and at 70 pounds I don't think they would try and carry it out. No, I would never see it again because I would never be able to get in here to recover it. That would entail hiking 15 - 20 miles which is a long hike on flat ground. I just didn't see myself being able to do that. I marked the location where I did leave it, in my Garmin 60CS thinking that I would post to Facebook and the Forum with the coordinates and anybody who thinks they could retrieve it could keep it. No bad feelings on my part. Anyway, it was load off my mind when I fully committed to never seeing it again. Let that be a strong reminder to what not to do in the future. I continued the painfully slow march. I was worried for my health because I know dehydration can be bad. But I tried not to exhaust myself too much. Walk for a few minutes and then lay down. Walk, lay down. Minutes turned to hours. I was thinking maybe if I eventually got to that magic "cell phone coverage" area that I could call 911 in case Ando wasn't able to. It's amazing what goes through your mind when you can't communicated with people who are trying to help you.What happened to Jeff? Did Ando make it out yet? Knowing where we had last all been together I was thinking positive and assuming that Jeff decided to explore that path beyond the river and went so far that he decided not to return with water. I knew that particular trail wound its way back up to the top of another mountain range to the 2 freeway which then led to civilization. So if he got out he would be able to call. But I had my doubts that we would have enough remaining power to climb another couple thousand feet and maybe 20 miles. I kept think that if I get rescued I'm going to have to tell them about Jeff so that they can search for him next. After maybe 3 hours I came across these maintenance trucks and construction equipment that we had passed on the way down. I opened every truck and door I could get into and FOUND WATER. Two old water bottles with maybe a 1/3 full of water each was an amazing find. First I sniffed it to be sure that they weren't storing fuel and then guzzled them down. Water had never tasted to good. Although it did not help with the exhaustion in my legs, it did help with the thirst and made me feel like I actually wasn't going to collapse somewhere up here in the mountains. I continued to walk, imagining what might be happening with Ando and Jeff. And then of course I was worrying about my wife because in the absolutely worst case I probably should have been home by now. But there was nothing I could do. She did know the general trails that we were taking (at least I got one thing right), but it would probably be very dark before she pulled the trigger and called 911. So I was still prepared for a very much longer day and night. Dusk was approaching when I started to hear a helicopter somewhere in the distance. That was the first mechanical sound I had heard for hours. I thought I heard a plane too. I did see the helicopter at one point but it was miles in the distance. Amazingly I had made it back to trail junction where we made the bad turn. And then I heard and saw a large search and rescue type helicopter hovering over me, but very high. I was in an area where there were power line towers (thus the maintenance equipment found earlier) plus I'm sure they generally stay far above the trees. I waived both my hands for a little bit and then it moved off to the distance a bit and hovered again. Then it left. "Well, that's it. I've been found and now help will be on the way". That was a huge psychological lift for me. So I continued to walk, and walk, and walk. It was now totally dark, after 8pm. Fortunately I had small pen flashlight so I could see the path in front of me. No longer fearing collapse from dehydration I could start contemplating coming across bears or mountain lions, both of which live in these mountains. What joy! I then spotted a brief flash of light followed shortly by a truck rounding the corner ahead. You can imagine what I thought at that sight. It eventually slowed to a stop beside me and I was asked my name (I guess they didn't want to pick up the wrong guy) and let me in the truck. There were four uniformed men in there, all volunteers for the Sierra Mountain Search and Rescue. They gave me all the water I wanted and bagged peanuts. Life was good. Shortly after I got in the crowded vehicle I asked if they happened to know about any other ..., and before I could complete the sentence they told me that all three people have now been accounted for. So Jeff was alive ;-) I assumed Ando was good because otherwise I probably wouldn't be sitting in the truck at the top of the mountain. Now get this, they then asked me, "do you want to go get your 'bike'?" Are you kidding me? I tried to suggest that I didn't want to put them through the trouble (I really didn't), but they insisted. They said that they were already up there so why not. It probably took another half an hour and a locked gate to get within a few hundred feet of where I left it. The last bit had to be walked since the trail conditions were too severe for the truck. So I actually got my Monster back. It felt like I just received a new wheel because in my mind I given it up for lost. As we drove down the mountain for the next 1-1/2 hours I learned that Jeff had been recovered on the 2 freeway, and Ando was the one that called it in. Eventually I met up with Jeff as we were brought together at the base of the mountain to be driven back to our vehicles (20 miles away). There Jeff told me how he amazing made it back up to the highway on the other side of the mountain range and then down towards town, almost on a zero battery charge. His 2040wh ACM truly has been an amazing wheel. I also learned from the rescuers that the helicopter had not seen me! Amazing. The guys said that in the future you should lay on the ground and move, otherwise all they see from above is a head, and that's hard to distinguise from everything else. So they found me based on what Ando was able to tell them. You can read some of what Jeff encountered here: And then when I finally got home around midnight (having left in the morning at 8am) I eventually read about Ando's experience which was amazing in itself. His ACM has also proven to be an amazing wheel. Essentially going 10 miles down mountain trails with almost no battery power remaining. You can read is account here: And here is the dam (it was not Cogswell after all) that Ando got to: And the 911 help that arrived after he made the call So there you have it. I think none of us will forget this ride. It's been four days and I'm still having difficulty riding, which really surprised me. When yesterday I hopped on my KS14C for a short utilitarian trip I almost crashed as the wheel was very wobbly. I had a hard time turning. It was then that I realized that my legs were still weak and uncoordinated. Amazing. Although I declared that I wouldn't do this again, time heals all wounds ;-) I know Jeff is up to doing it again, and maybe Ando will be to. We will be better prepared next time. More water, food, maps, only ACM's or the like, and a bigger breakfast. Oh, and Jeff says he'll bring his ham radio (which hopefully will not be needed). I hope you enjoyed my little adventure story
  12. 23 points
    I love my Msuper V3. But: when things get wet and dirty, it has this nasty habit to throw everything up my back the road has to offer. Uhhh, I don't like mud slinging (even though it seems to become increasingly popular in politics). So, here is my solution: a 3D printed mudguard! Pick it from the print bed, peel off the brim, smack it on your Msuper and you're set to go! If you have access to a 3D printer (pretty much any one will do), download the model file from here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2083438, use up some 70 grams of ordinary PLA filament (< $2) and enjoy riding through Siberia in the fall. If not, google "3D Print Service" and find somebody, who prints it for you for less than $20. I put the file into public domain, so anybody can use it privat or commercially. I positively invite GotWay (happy New Year, @Linnea Lin Gotway & @Jane Mo! Does CNY come with New Year's resolutions, too?) and the nice distributors in this forum to use it. Give it your own branding if you like. And folks, please don't complain, if a distributor asks 50 bucks per piece - they have all those warranty obligations, can't exclude liability (like I do ) and still need to make a living... Here's my test ride today on Tempelhof airfield:
  13. 22 points
    I am back from Las Vegas after attending the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) and here to report on EUCs as I did last year. Unfortunately the showings of EUCs has dramatically decreased from last year. Kingsong dropped out this year. Only EUC companies that were there were Segway (ninebot), Swagtron, and Jyro. Fastwheel and Airwheel were there too but they weren't even displaying any EUCs but instead focusing on skateboards and 2 wheel scooters. And I didn't see one EUC from any other cheap chinese brand. It's a telling sign on the poor general mass market state of EUCs. Even the companies that were displaying EUCs did not focus on them which I'll go into more here. Skip to the very bottom for videos. I bought my Msuper V3 and Kingsong 16A with me to Vegas. Shipped it by Fedex which the shipping wasn't too expensive. Would be much better to just take it on the plane.... but anyways on to the EUCs. Segway (Ninebot) So after ninebot bought Segway, they quickly realized that Segway has more branding power than Ninebot. Hence why officially Segway Inc. was listed for CES and not Ninebot. They were showing off the Ninebot One S1 and had a young kid ride it around in their booth. Unfortunately the old head honcho would not allow me to ride it at all even after signing their waiver to ride their products. He was basically an asshole to me about it and basically did not believe/trust me that I could ride an EUC. Even after he saw my gotway and kingsong, he argued back to me "Oh I see you already have wheels yourself, you don't need to try the ninebot"...... most arrogant stupid crap I've ever heard when the entire point of going to a show like this is to promote and sell your product. He also said they offer training on their large two wheels with handles Segway but not the S1. This furthers hammer home that there is no push to get EUCs on the mass market when the biggest company with an EUC actively shuts potential customers down test rides and instead offer rides and training for their non-EUC products. Segway just left a very bad taste in my mouth after that and now I'm more motivated to show off the capabilities of the EUC anytime I see a Segway rolling down the street now. Jyro So at the corner of the hall was this new American company called Jyro. They had a whole product line of scooters, one wheel skateboards, and EUCs. But all of their products are just Chinese OEM rebranding. And in the case of their EUCs, they were just the Inmotion V3 and Inmotion V5F. The main marketing guy even admitted that they were Inmotion products but that they adjusted the firmware of their wheels and that they have an app (which he wouldn't show me). Both wheels felt exactly like the regular Inmotion products though. Oh and no one at their booth could ride and show off the EUCs. One of their employees barely was able to ride the twin-wheel V3. Oh and their one wheel skateboard is basically a knock-off of One Wheel. SWAGTRON The people at Swagtron really have a lot of money and marketing going for them. They were one of the first ones to jump on the "hoverboard" craze by offering their "Swagway". With the implosion of "hoverboards" this past year, they really have doubled down on not only staying in the market but offer new revised "better" hoverboards and just new ridables which include their EUC, the "Swag Roller"..... which again is basically an InMotion V3. Although they did change it enough to where it does look a little nicer. They did get UL certification though which they proudly displayed at their booth. They also displayed their booth babes riding around on all their products (except for the EUC) and also had the hoverboard boy dancing group do their dancing routine on their hoverboards. Like Jyro, no one could ride the EUC. But after the dance group finished their routine, I showed those guys Damien Gaumet's EUC trick video and they were blown away by it and immediately started to try to ride the EUC. So maybe this year we might see a dance video featuring EUCs by them? Swagtron's EUC basically rode like the Inmotion V3. They said they were going to sell it for $400 but didn't have any plan to release it. Special Treats HONDA actually brought their self balancing seated "EUC" the uni-cub. I first saw this over 5 years ago and was excited to see it displayed and even more excited to actually ride it. it handled similar to an EUC but this one also balances left and right for you. Because of that, it is possible to strafe left and right but I was never able to fully strafe with my time on it. But it was still very easy to ride but with just a top speed of 4 mph. I almost overleaned the unit by testing its speed while another guy actually did bust his ass trying to do the same. Another fun treat was when I ran into RYNO Motor guys on the sidewalk outside of the Convention. First time I've even seen these in person although I didn't ride. It was very funny to see the size of the RYNO next to my Msuper V3 but knowing that the Msuper is much faster which a longer range. Even though it was cool to see the RYNO, it still represents an over-engineered product that will never see mass market adoption as a practical form of personal transport. SIDENOTE: As I was leaving from the airport, I saw a 3 wheel electric scooter about to board the plane. Talked to the guy on it and he was their to just transport it back home after CES. He wasn't using it for any disability. I asked him how he was allowed to bring it on the plane and he said that his brother took care of all of that. This product uses a lead-acid battery though so that may be the difference? And that was basically it as far as Unicycle-like devices at CES 2017. Got to meet Jason McNeil which is always a pleasure to meet someone else as passionate about EUCs as you. But hopefully that passion translates over the general public soon, if at all. There have been several threads on this forum already but we as an EUC community really need to do everything that we can to promote EUCs not just as a fun activity, but as an actual useful and practical personal transportation vehicle not for the future, but RIGHT NOW. That is why I ride not only on sidewalks but also on city streets with cars to show that I am no different than a regular cyclist on the road. It also helps encourage positive views in the minds of police and lawmakers to accept these EUCs on everyday life. I'll leave with two videos, one of EUCs at CES and one of us riding in and around Las Vegas.
  14. 22 points
    Last Friday I swapped Wheels on my 24km round-trip daily commute to the preproduction V8, here my notes over this first 100km. Video coming in the next day or two... - Power & Handling: this is where the V8 really shines! It feels super-responsive & powerful. Acceleration feels effortless smooth & minimal pedal flutter. When riding this thing, it feels like a thorough-breed waiting to get out of the gates. Out-of-the-box there's a -1° tilt-back angle set which is not to my liking, found the 3° (forward) to perfect. There have been +37° degree days here in Miami, I've experimented to see how high I could raise the temperature in the control-board from hard riding, but try as I might, unable to raise it more than 10° above ambient temperature. - Tilt-back & lower-power handling: the tilt-back is progressive, it starts to be kick-in around the 25kph mark. To attain a 30kph cruising speed requires a fair amount of determination to push past the 7° incline. In low-battery mode, I noticed that if you try some hard(ish) acceleration there's an attention grabbing buzzer. - Pedals: these are identical to the V5F, 21cm x 12cm. Extremely comfortable, even more so than the V5F, because there is less inward tilt-angle than the V5. This is mainly noticeable over longer journeys, where I don't need to shift my feet around to get blood circulating. A consequence of the lower inward tilt, is that the outer edge is 2cm lower than the V5F, 11cm vs 13cm. With the unique oval design, 11cm should still be more than ample height to prevent pedal scrape on sharp turns. - Range: despite having the same battery pack, the range is definitely not as great as the V5F+. I have yet to do a data-logging session with it, but the possible factors are: 1) larger motor uses more power (obviously, the question is how much more!), 2) riding at higher speed has to fight wind resistance, 3) Aggressive riding. This last was certainly relevant over the past couple days: I find myself showing-off riding a lot harder both in acceleration & braking. - Comfort: the engineering compromises to install an integrated retractable are apparent with the V8: unlike the V5F, with it's wonderfully narrow-padded-contoured-edge, the leading edges on the V8 extend outward & are composed of hard PVC plastic, this is makes it quite uncomfortable to ride! Of course padding can be added, but since this area already extrudes further than other surfaces, such a solution is definitely undesirable. It's curious that despite how badly designed something is, humans are infinitely adaptable. Over the space of these four days testing, I'm finding that it's less annoying/painful. Changed my riding stance so there is less pressure with the sides. There are murmurings that this element might be changed in the production version, if so this would be wonderful Edit 28 Aug: custom molded padding will be included as standard equipment. - App & the Light-Show: I'm not particularly enamoured by Inmotion's App as it is, there's certainly room for improvement. One unique feature for the V8, is where you can display the lighting scheme to apply to the Wheel before actually loading it. After selecting, it downloads the scheme onto the Wheel. These programmable light-shows are up to 60KB in size, & interestingly, can take up to a minute to download to the Wheel, which seems a little slow for today's BT standards. It need hardly be said that the light-show also lights up the attention & envy of those primitive bipeds. I know I wrote about it in another thread, but the marketing strength of the multi-colour LEDs could be the single greatest selling point to the future success of this Wheel. Conclusion: this Wheel has so much promise, on paper there was little to fault it with. As it is, it's still great & joy to ride, but if it is to be a truly great Wheel, a contender for the defacto choice for both novices & experienced riders, in my opinion, the outer shell needs a rethink to allow easier access to the battery bay [Edit 24 Aug: number of connectors has been reduced & getting access to the battery is not as problematic as first supposed] & most importantly it has to be comfortable! Yes, we can probably adapt, or padding added, but why come so far & compromise on comfort? Handle design for the V8 & V5. The V5 handle was very good, why not dispense with the internal handle & use the V5s as a bolt-on? Front view of both Wheels No brake LED strips on the V8, but at least the logo is illuminated Measured 150mm width Compares against 128mm on the V5F+ and padded surfaces as well! Pedal length of 21cm 12.3cm wide: View from the back: there are no screw holes to attach a mud-guard to, but I've used it in the rain on a couple occasions, and haven't really noticed dirt being flung up on the Wheel, so maybe it's not needed Same as above but looking directly down (those XT60 cables in the V5F+ are access to the datalogger) Larger in Motion logo, no printed red stripe or padding for the V8: Plenty of ground/tire clearance, there is little chance of rocks or foreign objects getting lodged within the shell Headlight brightness is the same for both models: throws a bright white light up to 20m ahead Rather look the discreet but futuristic looking blue LED strings of the V5F: Here you can see the width differences between the models, the V8 is fatter in the wrong areas Similar look: there's an additional red band on the V8. You can see the inward-tilt-angle of the pedals in this picture. In the V5F it's pretty pronounced at 15° Tire valve access panel has been redesigned, it easier to open & lock than on the V5F:
  15. 22 points
    First time posting on here! made it just in time for the contest! i hope you like my video
  16. 22 points
    Hello everybody, glad to write here. I don't know if there is a place for presentation. So i do it here. I'm Hirsute, a circus artist from France and i do freestyle on wheel from exactly one year (i practice a lot...). Here is what i like to do on wheel: (Maybe some of you have already seen this, but for the others....) For those who want to see more video, check my facebook: https://www.facebook.com/wheelhirsute/ I began on july 2015 on a mcm2s, then i have bought a KS14C, a Msuper for off-road, and now a V5+. (Sorry for my english, i don't know if it's correct but i do my best...)
  17. 21 points
    Inmotion V8: Beauty and the Beast! Tested with Mobile app version 6.1.0 (Android - released the day V8 arrived) and firmware upgraded to latest v1.0.901 (unfortunately in a haste to upgrade the firmware I’ve not made the note of the original firmware version with which the wheel was shipped) – update notes mentions only “Improved performance” so I guess no new feature(s) has been added since the wheels left manufacturer. (The new version 6.1.1 of app was released today later on after publishing this.) The bellow text is a collection of my notes over past week since I’ve received the wheel so it might be a bit “inconsistent” at some places or repeat some information as it was written bit by bit at different times. Apologies for not including any picture at the moment – I might try to add some later if it would help to clarify / demonstrate some points better. I’d be most likely editing this post a bit in following couple of days to correct mistakes and to add missing info. Look: The look is simply fantastic. With Side LED (Atmosphere) lights both on as well as off it’s a big head turner and you need to see it in person as no picture can really show that. Its unique design (partially shared with V5F) featuring a glossy black monolith is exquisite and I simply want to put it on display at my room as a piece of art at exhibition It’s without discussion currently one of the (if not THE) best looking wheels out there. You’ll definitely look cool riding it wearing anything from tuxedo over the office outfit to most casual wear. Design: It shows without any doubts that Inmotion have put a lot of effort in designing the wheel from the ground (well in this case from its older but smaller sibling V5F) rather than repurposing “unfit” e-bike parts as many other current EUC manufacturers. Both motor and controller board are in house designs and rest of the wheel shows that attention to details was put into each part used to build the wheel. There are some very minor nibbles here and there but nothing major affecting the overall quality or functionality of the device. Weight / Dimensions: With 13.6 Kg its 3.2 Kg lighter than KS-16 (840 Wh model at 16.8 Kg) making V8 very slim, light and nimble 16” wheel. If you’re coming from 14” wheel and are concerned about manoeuvrability you don’t need to worry at all. With proper tire pressure you’d not even notice you’re riding larger diameter wheel. If you need to carry the wheel regularly like up / down the stairs at apartment building or at office without elevators or to / from train while commuting you’ll appreciate the lower weight for sure. Although V8 is lighter and slimmer than KS-16 it’s also a bit taller (mainly due to its fixed protruding handle unlike KS-16 where the handle is “sank” a bit as it’s acting as dual purpose trolley handle as well) you might find it a bit too tall to be put comfortably under your legs leaning against the seat while in train, bus or metro. Also as it’s lacking any kind of soft cushions or padding at the top areas it’s more likely to slip or even get scratched while leaning against the seat or wall. Some users placed the supplied ankle pads (same like on V5F) on the top “bulges” but those are not really designed for such curved surface and look a bit odd placed there. I’m currently still debating what exactly to place or glue on those to make top more adhesive and protected against scratches. I’m currently in between a “car door” trimming (black or clear – similar to what @Rehab1 used on his V5F+) and the small silicon protective “legs” / blobs I’ve used on my KS-16 at front / rear and sides to protect its shell from hitting walls and sliding off the seat. But even without any protective layer the top shell bulges are comfortable as they curve inwards towards the top so there is no sharp edge pushing against your legs / calves. Ride modes / Comfort / Motor: There is only one ride mode – no mode configuration or selection is currently possible via app or some “secret” power up procedure or button pushing like on some other wheels. The ride mode is very hard / stiff – much stiffer than Player mode on KS-16 – which I personally prefer / like. If you own or have used the V5F before you’d need a zero “acclimatisation” coming to V8 but for other user it might be a bit of “cultural shock” due the firm mode, higher pedals and slim body. I’m still (literally) finding my footing after riding softer KS-16 for several months / thousand Km. Especially turning requires different approach so I’m still trying to perfect that after only one week / 180 KM on V8. The motor is very quiet – no “jet engine” sound of KS or GW wheels. You can still hear to motor doing it’s hard work but is a quiet friendly purr comparing to “angry” growls of KS / GW. With 800W “horse power” I’ve felt no difference to KS-16 during take-offs, breaking, acceleration or climbing inclines / hills. V8 takes me up the long “test hill” without sweat or any complains of overheating. I’m not sure if it’s mainly due to the really hard riding mode or also better motor management but I’ve not experienced any of the “dead zone” / almost shut-off feeling like sometimes still demonstrates on KS-16 even with latest FW (to clarify KS-16 will not shut off but feel a bit unstable for a brief moment during stand still take-off). Speed / Warnings: Maximum speed is 30 Km/h with default speed limit warning set to 25 Km/h. There is no need to ride a specific amount of Km or use any code to “unlock” the higher speed – simply slide the speed warning slider to desired value. However you’ll receive a warning from the app if you try to set the speed limit above 25 Km/h that you should do so only after riding some distance and having experience and you need to click accept or cancel. The V8’s tilt-back is “mild” but progressive at set speed limit accompanied by audible warning (this is an improvement to how tilt-back works on V5F). Despite that I recommend (as with any other wheel) to test tilt-back in a “controlled environment” by setting the speed limit lower and experience it while aware of it kicking in so you’ll be not startled later one when it happens during normal ride. One thing I’m missing though comparing to KS-16 and some other wheels is multiply speed warning. Personally I prefer an audible warning or even better multiply warning prior the actual tilt-back kicks in. On KS-16 I have warnings set to 27 – 28 – 29 - 30 and I’m yet to reach the actual tilt-back as I always slow down at 3 beeps latest. On V8 the tilt-back activates first with audible warning following which is highly unnatural for me at the moment and makes me feel a little bit uncomfortable so I hope @JumpMasterwill manage to include IM protocol in his WheelLog app so it will be possible to use the “advanced” speed warning via his app instead. Hopefully multiply speed warnings could be implemented in the V8’s firmware later on. Other warning option which I’m used to from Solowheel Xtreme is the pedal vibration which I’d like very much implemented by other wheels / manufacturers including IM. Pedals: Pedals are large (21 x 12 cm at widest points) and comfortable with very good grip (so good actually that I’ve had initially a bit of issue repositioning my feet during ride ) - exactly same as on V5F models. The oval look might be deceiving as the contact area with your feet is big enough even for riders with larger shoe sizes. In terms of comfort I don’t feel any difference to KS-16 pedals even though they’re placed higher (top outer edge of pedal is 15 cm above ground) and closer together (distance between inner edges of pedals is 15 cm) due to the thinner body. What I like most comparing to KS-16 is that you don’t need to use so much force to fold / unfold them so you can do so using your feet instead of bending down all the time to unfold them by hand. On KS-16 you can fold the pedal by foot but needs a bit of “kick” to close them. Pedals are higher above ground and are very slim in profile which allows for nice tight turns with risk of scraping ground. Range: At my limited time using the wheel I’ve managed to average about 32 Km from full charge to 10% battery level at already colder weather with some stronger wind and with load over 90 Kg. Speeds averaging above 20 Km/h, reaching regularly my comfort cruising speed of 25 – 26 Km/h. Mostly flat terrain on bicycle lanes without too aggressive accelerations or breaking. Comparing to KS-16 / 840Wh where I can reach comfortably 50 – 55 Km at the same conditions it’s indeed “downgrade” but at the cost of lighter, slimmer and better looking wheel. Replaceable battery advertised by IM as a way to extend its range is at its current implementation IMO the V8’s weakest link at the moment so unless IM will makes some major changes in the shell and battery fitting design please do not consider this as a viable regular option. I’ll return to this point later on in separate post once I’ll investigate further the current amount of screws to be removed to free up the battery as my previous rant on this issue might have been a bit off. Handle / Motor Cut-off button: Integrated motor cut-off button in the bottom part of the handle is a nice QOL feature but unfortunately not as well implemented as it might have been. The cut –off function could be turned off via app so if you don’t plan to use it or want / need to use safety / training belt attached to the handle you can switch it off. The button has also secondary function – to turn off and back on the side LEDs. As this function is not that clearly explained in the supplied manual here is how it works: with the wheel powered on hold the cut-off button and then long press the power button (the same press as if you’d turn on / off the head light) to switch the side LEDs off or on. The default settings is on and the wheel remembers the last setting after power off (unlike the head light which always turns off (similar way like KS-16 always defaults to “Auto” mode). You can also turn the side LEDs via mobile app but only using the main app, not via the notification bar quick access menu. The issue I have with the button itself is that it protrudes way to much out of the bottom part of the handle – even when fully depressed it’s still about 6 - 7 mm above (well below looking from the top) of the surface of the handle making it a bit uncomfortable to carry the wheel around or hold it for prolonged period of time. It also “wobbles” a bit making this feel even worse. It would be much better if the button will activate during firs few millimetres of depressing it but that it would actually completely flush with the handle’s surface when fully depressed. Otherwise the handle itself (ignoring the button annoyance) is large, firm and comfortable and comparing to KS-16 which uses “dual purpose” handle for both trolley handle and main handle (which can feel a bit flimsy at time and possess risk of trolley handle not fully locking in when collapsed) and it has also benefit of being able to be used as a locking point for the “bike lock” which I’d not recommend trying on KS-16 as you can simply extend the trolley handle and rip it off. Not that I’d ever leave any of my EUCs anywhere in public locked to anything else than very scary looking dog Battery Level indicator: The battery indicator is same as on V5F nice large “battery chunks” sections in nice blue colour when full with last two sections turning yellow and red when battery level drops. While it’s placed on the top section of the wheel in front of the power button and meant to be seen from wheel while riding it’s not as visible as it should be mainly during day time (even when overcast or in shadows) especially if you’re taller as first of all its hidden bellow the dark (smoked) translucent plastic shell (the same as on the side covers) and it’s tilted to the front due to the curve of the shell. During the past week (with not so much sunny weather) I’ve struggled to see the indicator at all during the ride. I’m not really sure how to improve this without affecting the slick curves of the wheel as the indicator would need to be either sticking out a bit from the front curve of the shell or be mounted more towards centre but then you’d need most likely to bend down to even see it . I’ve taped a small piece of plastic mirror (for a test) if front of the indicator and that helped a bit but of course it looks ugly. Stand: The “integrated stand” – which is simply a bit of strengthened lip added to each end of the shell at end of the “fender” is basically unusable. Unless the wheel stands on the perfectly flat and smooth surface the wheel will tip over at slightest sneeze or blow of wind. It’s basically usable only for a quick photo ops but I personally would not use it even at home to store the wheel as its dangerous leaving it like that. This is unfortunately common issue for the waste majority of the wheels out there as integrated “kick stands” are not really implemented well or at all (that includes probably the best attempt so far by Ninebot). Combining this with the fact that top of the shell has no soft / adhesive coating on the sides it’s practically impossible to lean the wheel against the wall or furniture without danger of it slipping off or even getting scratched. I remember @Jason McNeilmentioning something about IM including the attachable soft pads with production version of V8 but that this has not happened so far and only standard ankle pads (like with V5F) are included which are a bit hard to properly attach to the top shell “bulges”. Mobile app: While mobile app is at the “top of the pack” comparing to many other EUC mobile apps out there it still have some space for an improvement. The app is clearly professionally designed with simple minimalistic but pleasing UI. It is highly “social media” oriented with 3 out of 4 tabs being used for Sharing (of text, pictures or videos) and commenting or liking the shares, events, clubs, rankings and your profile with collecting points and coins. The community seems to be pretty live though predominantly Chinese as the app covers all current IM products (not only EUCs). The most “important” part for EUC / SCV (as IM call it) details and configuration is at the moment a bit “Spartan” with bare minimum of info provided. Current trip, week ranking, mileage, speed, board temperature (only for V8) and battery level in % is all you get. No average or maximum speeds, current, power or battery voltage as you might be used from KS-16 or other wheels. At the moment it’s unclear if any of those additional values are even provided by (or possible to request from) the wheel via BT LE communication protocol but @JumpMasteris currently researching this to see if IM protocol could be included in his fabulous WheelLog app. Apart of the main IM app there is also the notification bar applet included (indicated by small red i in left corner of the notification bar) which remains active even after closing / exiting the main app. After pulling down the notification bar on your phone it provides a quick access menu with option to connect to the wheel (either of the apps will currently not connect automatically to the wheel upon launch), switch on / off headlight, power off the wheel and display battery level status. The quick menu bar could be closed by tapping at the small cross at its right side. The one of the issue with the app design itself is that it’s using in some areas (like main SCV screen) very small font and even the icons for some functions so it’s pretty difficult to read / see even on large screen phones (it feels more like tablet app). Other obvious issue is the localization. Once again while it’s much better than many other (the “Chinglish” is really minimal here with only about two or three expressions / names translated a bit unusual or incorrect way) there are places still either missing completely or at least partially translations or using the Chinese instead. Finally the app is clearly targeted more as social app rather than EUC / Wheel companion app. While you can perform all necessary service and configuration tasks via SCV / Features option including FW update, diagnostic of the wheel and DIY LED light designing it lacks a bit at the main ride screen as already mentioned above. The app also always default to first “Social page” tab screen instead to more desirable SCV ride screen and will not connect automatically to the wheel so multiply button taps are required to get into “ride” mode. App will also not register the current trip distance if you’ll not connect to the wheel prior the ride. Hopefully most of this could be improved a bit with some push from / help of @Jason McNeil and other distributors and customers. I’ll discuss the DIY LED design feature in a separate post. Replaceable battery: This was one of the main advertised points of V8 but the final implementation of this feature is currently more than disappointing. I’ve already ranted about that here in this thread and I’ll return to this point a bit later once I’ll find another spare hour or so to waste with opening the side shell and removing the battery. I also might have spoken too soon in regards of the amount of the screw holding the battery itself in the shell (11 as per my previous count) as I’ve gave up halfway through removing those with battery being still attached and have realized only later on that some of the screws I’ve included in the count might be actually holding the batter casing itself together rather than fixing the whole battery pack to the shell so I’ll re-visit this point once I’ll build up enough “courage” to struggle with removing the outer shell again. Nevertheless even if the battery pack is being hold only by 3 or 4 screws its still 3 or 4 too many. Trolley handle: Trolley handle is a bit longer than on KS-16 and its separate from the main shell handle which I personally think is a better option / solution than combined handle as on KS-16. Fully extended the top of the handle is 89 cm above ground while KS-16 is only 83 cm. It’s a little bit wobbly and placed asymmetrically outside of the centre of the gravity / wheel unlike on KS-16 (but much better than for example MSuper V3). Unlike sturdiest KS-16 handle due it’s placement in parallel with the wheel rather than diagonally it’s suitable for both right and left-handed use though if you’ll push it with left hand with handle towards you it will be in “reverse” with headlight facing back so at dark you’ll lose the “torch” function. Tire / Fenders / Mudflap: The tire has been “upgraded” from V5F and pre-production models of V8’s from 1.95” to 2.125” Kenda tire with different (IMO better) thread and feels very comfortable at 3.2 bar. Factory recommended tire pressure is 2.8 bar and wheel arrived with only 2 bar so please check your pressure before riding. One small complain I have though is that tire is almost hitting the the enforced fender edges (“stands”) – there is barely 2 - 3 mm space between the tire and edge of the fender so if the tire picks up some larger pieces of dirt, stones, leaves and so on it makes a bit scary and unpleasant noises and can eventually cause the wheel / tire to get stuck or blocked resulting in faceplant. IM also departed from optional Mudguard mount like on V5F though with a bit of creativity this could be added via DIY. The mudguard is definitely needed as even at dry conditions the tire spits up a lot of dust which then lands on the whole back section of the wheel as well as your trousers and shoes. Head & Tails lights: Strangely enough IM departed from the fabulous Head / Tail / Brake lights set present at V5F models to only head light and tail “logo” without any break light implementation. As why this happened we can only speculate – maybe the tail / brake lights were clashing with the side Atmosphere LED lights – who knows. Either way for those of us who want or are required by law to have both lights or even have them on all the time it’s a bit of let-down. The tail logo can’t be under any circumstances considered as a tail light so you’d either need to fit a separate light or can try to use the Atmosphere side lights. I’ve manged to make the design which emulates front white and red tail light using the LEDs and it’s fairly visible even when looking at the wheel directly from the rear or front but indeed it’s not as bright during daylight. The headlight can be easily switched on or off either by long press of the power button while the wheel is turned on or via main as well as notification bar app. Unfortunately the last state is not saved and always default to off after powering the wheel but on other hand it’s much easier (and quieter) to switch it on than on KS-16. One quick tap on power button to switch on the wheel followed by long press to switch on the lights and you’re ready to glide under a second and half. No more hassle of fiddling with multiply button presses like on KS-16 and waking up half of your neighbourhood with loud “Hello Kingsong” shouts”. Luckily you can adjust sound volume on V8 via mobile app as well as replace each sound with your own (even “silence”). I'm yet to test the brightness of the light in the dark but it doesn't seem much stronger than KS-16 and it has vey short throw very close to the wheel so it's not really designed / useful for night riding at unlit areas without additional light mounted on the wheel. Atmosphere / Side LED lights: Atmosphere / Side LED lights are chapter on its own. Despite opposing this feature heavily when the V8 was first announced I’ve actually found it to be most fun. I’ve spent whole first night designing different patterns and staring mesmerised at the blinking wheel. I’ll prepare bigger write-up just about this feature alone in a day or two (hopefully as the weather is getting worse day by day so this will be only fun I’d most likely have with V8 anyway). Until then one word of warning – do not upload to many DIY designs to the wheel as it seems it has limited amount of memory to store the designs and currently it’s unclear how to remove those afterwards or reset the wheel! Additional features / functions: Unlike KS-16 the V8 doesn’t include Bluetooth speaker(s). The tail speaker is for the audible warnings only and it’s pretty loud even at default 50% of volume. It though doesn’t seem to be waterproofed as you can see the speaker membrane through the holes in the shell. Maybe some waterproof folia could be added to address this? Also the speaker volume is the same independent of the state or speed of the wheel. It would be a great QOL improvement if the wheel / app would have at least two volume setting – one for stationary wheel (like at home or in office) and one while moving. Currently I need to change the volume settings at least 4 times a day to not startle anyone at home or office while connecting to wheel but to be able at the same time to hear the warning while driving. Having an option of the dynamic volume increase based on speed would be even better. For each audible warning you can use one of the predefined or extra downloaded sounds and spoken voices, use your own audio files or record new including "silence" if you prefer to "mute" the specific warning. There is no USB or any other charging port available and it seems that reverse protection is present on the main charging port as well so that one can’t be used to provide external power either. Also there is no reset button like on V5F despite the same rubber cover being used for DC charging port. Power button: Power button function is the same as on V5F though it has been changed from touch button to actual physical short press momentarily switch under the rubber cover. The short press on the button turns the wheel on / off, long press turns on / off the headlight and long press while holding the motor cut-off button under the handle will turn off / on the side LED Atmosphere lights. While this seems to be a standard with IM wheels it seems a bit “illogical” to me as I’d say the more dangerous / important function of turning the whole wheel on / off should have been via long press (as on many other wheels including KS-16) and lights using the short tap only. While the current setup makes switching the wheel on / off really quick – almost instant comparing to other wheels – it feels also a bit unsafe as it’s much easier to switch the wheel on or off by accident by quickly brushing against the power button. It actually happened twice to me in past two day that I’ve unintentionally switched the wheel off while grabbing it during stepping off. Surely it’s less dangerous accidentally to turn off or on light than the whole wheel? Maybe IM could include this as a configurable option in the future FW update. Included accessories and documentation: In the box is included apart of the wheel itself (or a couple of bricks if you’re unlucky ) charger packaged in the separate cardboard box, AC cable, ankle pads, user manual (in acceptable English) and warranty card (in my case for some strange reason with cover in English but rest in Spanish). Wheel is shipped double-boxed. No training belt or training wheels are included. Charger port & Charger: Charger is standard “slow” 84C / 1.5A charger same as with V5F but unfortunately IM has departed again at last minute from their unique branded USB-like yellow rectangular DC charging socket and plug (apparently due to the issues during certification process) and made last moment change to “howerboard” like 3 pin charging socket and plug instead (looks like miniature version of GX-16 sockets and plugs used by most of the current EUCs). Apart of making the V8 chargers incompatible with any other current IM product including V5F it’s now a bit hassle to insert the DC plug into the charging socket as you need to rotate it around to find the correct orientation (and it really doesn’t help the moulded “handle” on the plug is not aligned with the wheel in any way when plug is inserted) and you also need to use both hands to remove the plug from the socket. Also it makes it difficult to use alternative / faster charger or for example Charge Doctor. I’ve already ordered several plugs and sockets and I’m awaiting the delivery as I currently feel a bit “blind” not being able to see how much power is exactly being pushed into the battery pack or not being able to use fast charge or early charge cut-off. Indeed the same issue would be present if the original IM DC plug has been used. Finishing / Quality of assembly (Stickers): As mentioned earlier the design, quality and built is superior to almost any other wheel currently on market though a little bit more attention might have been paid during the assembly process. In my case for example both the product sticker (in the gap on the side shell cover opposite the trolley handle) as well as the serial number sticker were “slapped” on the wheel without too much attention so the first one has bubbles which can’t be chased off and the second is a bit diagonally instead of parallel with the edge of the wheel plus its white sticker on the otherwise entirely black wheel. Both drive my OCD crazy … Surely it’s not that much to ask to spare extra 2 seconds and place both sticker on properly? Maybe use black sticker for the black wheel or at least hide the white sticker at some less exposed place like inside of the trolley handle gap? On another wheel freshly unpacked from the box there were a visible scratches at the motor casing near to the valve clearly caused by careless employee filling up the tire with the air. Side “cushions”: Side “cushions” (unlike on V5F) are only bulges in the side translucent smoked plastic covers without any soft or adhesive surface. The top edges are curved inwards so you’ll not experience any pain touching those with your legs / calves. IM supplies ankle pads (like on V5F) which some users applied to those top bulges but they don’t look so good there as they’re not design to be attached to such curved area. Overall: I’m happy with V8 despite several minor shortcomings here and there of which none has impact on the ride quality or safety (maybe apart of the fender edges being too close to tire) and most of them could be resolved on existing model by firmware and app update only. The most critical "issue" in regards of swappable battery would require shell redesign though if done properly (if at all) moving the innards of current wheel into the new shell should be possible if this particular point would be major issue for any of the current V8 owners I’m still novice at this wheel and need some more time to become more comfortable riding it without concentrating too much on the wheel movement. It took me over month to get comfortable on KS-16 so I’m not worried about such feelings only one week after starting with the wheel. At the time of posting I've been riding the V8 daily (weather and slow / long charging permitting) for past 7 days since it has arrived last Thursday from @Jason McNeil and have 180 Km under my heels so far ... If I’ve missed out any points you’ve wondered about please ask in the discussion below.
  18. 21 points
    Saw that and ok, heh, i now know that everybody can ride one !
  19. 21 points
    For those interested, here is my comparison of the new 14" Ninebot One S2 [310wH] (Retail $950) vs the new 14" InMotion V5F+ [460wH] (Retail $995) Special thanks to @fearedbliss for letting me try out his new InMotion V5F+ during a good, few hour tour of Brooklyn and Coney Island (my first time in fact!). For reference, I am a 72kg rider with a foot size of US Mens 8.5, and write this comparison as just a regular EUC enthusiast, model and company agnostic. SPEED Out of the box, the V5F+ and S2 should, per spec, have the same ~15.5mph top speed, but I had a hard time catching up to @fearedbliss when I was following on my S2. The S2 is in full tiltback when crossing the 15mph threshold, while the V5F+ tiltback threshold seems to go a little higher. InMotion seems to have plans to increase the V5F+ top speed in later firmware updates, while Ninebot has not stated any plans to increase the S2's top speed in the near future. RANGE Per spec, the V5F+ with slightly bigger battery and better LG cells, should have 50% better range than the S2. While I didn't conduct an exact scientific test between the two, suffice it to say, during our lunch break mid-ride, I had to find the nearest outlet for my S2, while @fearedbliss's V5F+ went the entire few hour trip without a recharge. (for E+ owners, I get the same 12 mile range on my S2 as I did on my old E+ -- as always, rider weight dependent). RESPONSE [S2] Like with all Ninebot Ones, the S2 has a hard response. The pedals maintain a solid, perpendicular shelf during the entire drive, just like I used to experience on my old E+. Unfortunately, with the new Ninebot app, I can't seem to find a way to adjust the hardness like I could with my old E+ and old Ninebot app. [V5F+] The V5F+ has a unique version of a hard response that I quite liked. Initially, inbetween braking and acceleration, there is a slight 'wavy' rock to the pedals. However, when engaging acceleration forward, the pedals will cock up and lock at a slight angle (not as steep as tiltback), staying rock solid and allowing you to really lean into the wheel during acceleration. I am always cautious about not overleaning due to past mishaps (all my faults!), but with the V5F+, I felt like I could be more aggressive in pushing my weight into the wheel for acceleration, more than I can on my other wheels. Maybe this is the kind of response @Jeffrey Scott Will and all the other SoloWheel owners rave about when talking about their SoloWheels? BUMPS [S2] The S2 as a 14" wheel handles bumps and jumps off curbs just fine (with the familiar Ninebot One rattle). Bumps or running into minor divots will set off a single momentary beep that I believe is a current surge overlean warning (which is great!). The same warning is triggered when I try to accelerate too fast from slow speeds too, ie. overlean. [V5F+] The V5F+ going over small bumps and landing off curbs feels like you are riding on a solid mass of immovable rubber. Jumping off curbs will make no rattling noise whatsoever, and driving through small bumps, like a raised sidewalk onramp curb, feels like nothing. PEDALS / HANDLING [S2] Ninebot Ones have always had fairly comfortable pedals, and the S2 is no different. They measure about 7.5" long, 5.25" wide, and sit 4" high from the ground, a bit low for my tastes and carving style. [V5F+] To me, this is one of the areas of the V5F+ that shines. The V5F+ pedals, despite appearances, are one of the longest (8") and highest (5.5") stock pedals I've experienced on a wheel (for additional reference, my KS-18A mk2 pedals are 7" long, 5" wide, 4.5" high). The combination of the less wide (5"), high-sitting pedals allowed me to really angle the wheel close to the ground during turns, without pedal scrape. I got so used to this setup that, going back to the S2, I kept pedal scraping trying to make the same deep turns! COMFORT [S2] The S2 has no padding to speak of, so you must attach your own. I stuck some A/C insulating foam to the shin regions with velcro, which does the job. The pedals, again, are a good size and feel comfortable. [V5F+] The V5F+ sports fairly cushy and thick built-in shin cushions (thicker and cushier than my KS-18A's) that are very comfortable. The relatively long pedals, while sporting less width, were more comfortable than I thought they would be from pictures, no complaints here. WARNINGS / SOUNDS The S2 has many loud beeps that make sense for top speed and overlean warnings, but are a bit obnoxious (same volume) when powering on and lifting the handle. Ninebot really needs to make these non-warning type beeps lower in volume or manually adjustable through the app. In contrast, the sounds of the V5F+, in both tone and volume, are more palatable; the power on/off sound reminds me of old Sega video game sounds!. On another note, both wheels carry no audible motor frequency noise, which is a nice change from the KingSong motor noise (I believe Gotway as well has this). PORTABILITY [S2] Unfortunately, Ninebot has not learned the lessons of it's previous One line, and there is no Ninebot or 3rd party trolley handle solution. While the S2 @ 27lbs is considered a lighter EUC, I would not want to carry the wheel for prolonged periods of time. Hopefully they will develop a suitable option, but something tells me this will be in the form of a poorly designed afterthought, just like the un-wieldy, eyesore of a unicorn trolley handle they sell for the 16" One series. [V5F+] While @fearedbliss hadn't received his V5F+ trolley handle yet, from pictures, it looks well thought out and well integrated into the overall wheel's design, what with it's fold-out, curved shape. It's great that InMotion designed this custom trolley handle and made it available at launch, not assuming all their riders are muscled and ripped enough to carry around the V5F+'s 26.5lbs over prolonged distances / periods of time. HANDLE / WHEEL KILL [S2] The S2 handle is made of a firm rubberized material (spongier than the 16" One Handle), fixed on both ends to the wheel by hidden mechanical, spring-like mechanisms that, when the wheel is lifted by the handle, pulls slightly out of the unit, beeping and engaging the wheel kill function (provided the wheel is not spinning above 5MPH). The overall feel is sturdy, yet comfortable. I do have occasion where, when I lift the wheel, the spring mechanisms do not fully pull out properly at first to initiate the wheel kill, but this is rare and quickly corrects itself under the pull of its own weight while continuing to carry it. [V5F+] The V5F+ handle is a continuous extension of the plastic body/shell, just like the KingSong KS-14C & KS-18A carry handles. A long, thin plastic button runs along most of the underbelly of the handle so that grabbing the handle naturally presses the button against your hand against the weight of the wheel, engaging the wheel kill function. Although the button is long, you could feasibly lift the wheel while not depressing the button, for, say, lift tests, which is nice, because with the S2, you have to dig through a few settings menus in the Ninebot app to turn off the wheel kill feature. ** I have to say, the handle-initiated wheel kill in general is extremely useful for running in and out of shops, and lifting the unit quickly up tall curbs without having to power on/off the unit (thankfully both wheels power on fairly quickly: the V5F+ is a long press of its touch pad power button, while the S2 is a slightly quicker press of its regular mechanical power button). Plus, carrying the powered-on S2 with green LED ring battery level display adds to the eye candy factor! VISIBILITY The V5F+ clearly wins in the visibility department, sporting full blown headlight and tail lights. I like that the front light is manual on/off, as, for comparison, my KS-18A light sensor tends to be finnicky in inbetween daylight and nighttime scenarios, or switching in and out of shade. The S2 only sports the led ring light (with braking light), which is now stock visible from the front and back, but the lights from these angles are not particularly the brightest. BATTERY METER As those have stated, being able to look directly down to see the battery meter on the V5F+ is very convenient, especially mid-ride, as opposed to the S2, which breaks out of the side led battery indicator pattern during motion. WHEEL CLEARANCE Both wheel shells are fully circular and sit fairly flush with the wheel at around 1/2" for both, but I love how the V5F+ has gone a step further to make the bottom edge of the shell fold up (with a firm yank) so you can easily access the tire valve without an extension for inflating. BOTTOM LINE / CLOSING THOUGHTS @Jason McNeil has a real winner in the new InMotion V5F+. It really feels like InMotion took the best of each competitor's wheels, threw in a few extra, well-thought out conveniences, and rolled it into this first foray into the single wheeled EUC market. For all the Ninebot One E+ owners out there looking to upgrade, I would have to put this wheel right next to the KingSong KS-16B as the 2 best overall upgrade paths, with the V5F+ being the more compact and lighter option. The S2, on the other hand, is still a solid wheel (basically a 14" E+), albeit comparatively over-priced (as is the case with Ninebot in general), but not an end-all be-all solution IMO. The only real advantage it has over the V5F+, I would say, is that the batteries (2x 155wH packs) are TSA compliant for travel, and semi-easy to remove. (note: the 4 battery screws have a tendency to get lost through the deep holes of the battery casing if you're not using a magnetic screwdriver). =====UPDATE (7/27/2016)===== (additional observations, now that I have the V5F+ in hand) GRIPTAPE The V5F+ pedals are way grippier than the S2. The S2 griptape is similar to a fingernail file, while the V5F+ has a deeper, more textured grooves, ala heavier duty skateboard griptape. POWERING The power connector looks very USB-esque, but the best part is, it's symmetrical! Meaning, there's no wrong way to plug it in, unlike every other EUC power connector out (LEMO, GX16, etc.). Think all wheels should use this, as I always hate fumbling to quickly plug the chord in (wish I knew the name of this connector type...) Charging the powered off V5F+ will automatically turn on a rolling light display (which I cannot seem to turn off) that shows the progress of charging via the battery indicator. The S2 has a similar display, but you have to turn it on manually. Both wheels when plugged in and in this battery display mode do not engage the gyroscope. *One note about the V5F+ power button is that it is very sensitive. While installing the trolley handle, I repeatedly turned the wheel on unintentionally. TROLLEY HANDLE / PORTABILITY From pictures, I assumed that the V5F+ trolley handle was metal, but in hand, that was not the case. The trolley handle is made up of primarily a sturdy plastic (like a plastic wiffle ball bat) with a rubber grip and feels hollow on the inside. This material choice makes sense to keep the total weight of the unit down. Plastic aside, the trolley handle feels plenty sturdy, and with the curved design, I'm able to easily push the wheel around, even when the wheel is not powered on. However, I wouldn't recommend trying to lift the wheel by the extended trolley handle, as I think that would put unnecessary stress on it. And although both V5F+ with trolley handle installed and the S2 weigh 27 lbs, the V5F+ for some odd reason feels a little lighter when carrying. Not sure why, but might be due to the V5F+ battery residing higher in the unit than the S2 batteries. CALIBRATION I really like the V5F+ calibration vs other systems I've experienced. You basically adjust a slider in the app, which will immediately and incrementally re-level the wheel accordingly, without having to restart/re-power on the wheel. In comparison, the Ninebot and KingSong calibrations require you to have steady hands in manually adjusting the wheel to the right level, and then holding that position while fumbling to lock in that setting in the app with an app button press, or having to press the physical power button on the wheel.
  20. 20 points
    My whole body is starting to stiffen up as I type this Unfortunately there's no video. I was cruising with my Monster to some good tunes on a very nice curvy sidewalk. Probably 15mph max - the tunes were definitely pumping up my speed There was an outside curve that had hedges pruned right up to the edge of the sidewalk. You know where this is going right Just as I was thinking my speed was a tiny bit too fast for the curve and the bushes seemed like they might juuuuust brush my feet - Bam! The left pedal caught, the wheel stopped, and I flew off the right side, twisting as I caught some air. Landed on my right and slid on the adjacent dirt/grass very hard. Kind of knocked the breath out of me and for a couple of seconds I thought that this might be the fall where I break something (something personal, like a bone). I lay there for 15 seconds and then slowly started moving, not wanting to injure something worse in case I was broken. After about 5 minutes of very slow movements I was able to climb back on the Monster (which seemed to be unscathed) and limp home. My right hip, groin, ribs, arm, and shoulder feel like they participated in a Monday Night football game, without my permission. The one positive take away is the reaffirmation to wear full protection when I'm going to be out riding fast. In this case I was wearing a long sleeve shirt, gloves, elbow and knee pads, and my helmet (which I wear even when I'm not going fast). Tomorrow is not going to be fun
  21. 20 points
    Just a short video of trying out some new trick filming ideas/techniques including: Using a motorised slider rail (horizontal & vertical). This works really well for filming tricks as the movement of the camera is more pleasing to watch than static "CCTV" footage. Filmed during a lunchtime session, the building in the background is the Shard. 3 meter selfie pole - when spinning around fast it generates loads of wind resistance and makes a crazy noise. I have also been trying some tricks in my Tron costume - I got buzzed by the met police helicopter last night which diverted its flight path to have a look :-)
  22. 19 points
    Sorry to keep everyone waiting, I had a busy day yesterday. The votes have been tallied and the count has been double-checked by (at least) three moderators, myself included. The final three winners are: 1st: Hirsute2nd: Toby Stevens3rd: SideStreet Reny Congratulations to all the winners and warm thanks to everyone who contributed, either by making contest videos, voting and/or giving feedback on the contest! I take it that @Rehab1 & @Jason McNeil will now take over to manage the transportation/prize money transfers for the winners?
  23. 19 points
  24. 18 points
    Hello, I can't find the section presentation, sorry. Then I come here, I use Google translation I'm sorry, I don't control any English, I'm already struggling in French, laughing. Anyway, I'm a French Wheeler as @Hirsute. I'm Wheeler since June 2014. My name is Jean (Nhut) I am now a fan of's mode of transport. I like the Street and Freestyle. I also organizes a lot of output of electric mobility. Here's my YouTube channel. I hope you enjoy my videos, enjoy. And if you spend a day in France in the city of Nancy, you will be welcome to our outputs Wheelers. Good evening
  25. 18 points
  26. 18 points
    Hello everybody, this is the submission of Chris West. He has technical problem to connect to the forum and to post his video. So i post his youtube link for him, to be sure that he can take part to the contest. As soon as the problem will be solved he will post himself his video and a moderator will be able to erase my post. Good for you? It's not perfectly regular, but: the contest first, technical problem after, don't you think?
  27. 18 points
    I just want to say, thank you, to all people responsible for this great forum. This forum grew to have all the relevant topics. Whenever i search for stuff on google, several topics in this forum pop up. It is a treasure trove for all. The forum is very well maintained, moderated, kept up to date. The staff is knowledgeable and active. It is a pleasure to contribute. Thank you.
  28. 17 points
    As always, I start up with the usual notion that I'm not an expert on batteries (lithium or otherwise), electronics or electricity and this post can contain mistakes and wrong information (but not on purpose ). If anyone notices something wrong, please post here so I know to correct it. This is also (at the time of posting) a bit terse on some subjects, I'll try to get around to write more details some time... Battery-related stuff comes up in the forums all the time, and when getting into the subject of having to open up a battery or do some measurements with them, I've (usually) mentioned certain things that can cause these little bundles of joy that allow the wheels to move around to become your worst nightmare. So, instead of repeating (parts) of all the little tidbits you should take into account, I thought writing a single post with the relevant information would be more useful (as it could then be linked wherever needed without needing to repeat everything all the time). For those in a "hurry", here's list of DON'Ts and DO's: -Don't work on a battery with much clutter (especially metallic objects) scattered around -Don't short circuit a battery (pretty obvious, eh? ) -Don't puncture a battery -Don't overheat a battery (ie. be especially careful if you need to solder something to the cells/near them or re-wrap it with heat shrink) -Don't immerse a battery in water (well, maybe if it's already on fire ) -Don't proceed with fiddling with the battery / cells if you feel unsure of what you're doing -Do work in a well-ventilated area and on a fireproof, non-conducting (no metal!) surface -Do remember that a battery is always "live" (there's no off-switch for the battery itself), even when fully discharged -Do think what you're doing before acting and take care, usually things happen by accident (like measuring voltage from a connector and accidentally allowing the metal probe tips to touch, short-circuiting the battery) -Do remember that these batteries are capable of killing you if things go really wrong -Do use common sense Although the above list speaks of "batteries", same things go for the cells themselves that combined make a "battery". Personally, I've managed to so far to both work with a small pack (dismantle it) in a cluttered area (although that went fine), and short-circuited a 16S2P-pack over a multimeter by accident. My advice, how hypocritical ever it is? Don't I also must admit that I've worked on batteries on plain wooden table and on top of a soldering mat (which can withstand heat up to and even above 400C, but isn't exactly fireproof) So I can't say that I'd actually "live like I preach", sorry about that... For those with more time, first off, let's go over the very basics: 18650 cells and caveats Most (but not all) wheels use 18650-sized lithium-ion cells bundled into series of 16 cells each (there can be one or more of these series inside a single pack, or divided into multiple packs), which is marked as 16S (16 in series). Usually also the amount of paralleled cells is mentioned, using the marking <number of parallel cells>P, so for example a pack with 16 cells in series and 2 cells in parallel would become 16S2P. Some notable exceptions are at least Ninebots (15 cells in series, 2 in parallel: 15S2P), InMotions (20 cells in series, don't know how many in parallel: 20S<Something>P), F-Wheel Dolphins (I think they used LiPo-packs, don't know much about the configuration). Probably others I've forgotten or don't know about. A 18650-cell gets its name from the dimensions: about 18 millimeters wide, 65 millimeters high (+- some tenths of millimeters in both dimensions): Also notably, the wheels use unprotected cells. This means that the cells themselves have no internal (active) protection circuitry, only "basic" passive protections: In a catastrophic fault, the cells should usually "vent" (possibly with flame!) instead of exploding, thanks to the safety vents. Should the vent fail when the pressure builds up, it is still possible for the cell to explode. PTC is a "positive temperature coefficient"-device, and meant to cut the current if it rises too high, as the resistance of the PTC-device also goes up then when it heats up (it resets after it cools down). CID is "current interruption device", which disables the cell (usually permanently?) if the internal pressure rises too high, by disconnecting the positive terminal. Notably, some sources state that it "does not always reset, does not always open completely when needed", so it's a bit of a gamble whether it really saves your ass when needed So, if the worst happens, there are at least some protections in place, but it's not always enough (ie. the safeties themselves can fail). Also, not all cells may have all of these protections. Another thing worth mentioning is that the entire metallic outer case is usually the negative terminal/pole, not only the "bottom" of the cell! Here's a picture of stripped down cells (the plastics with the printings around the cells are removed): The positive terminal is that roundish thing bulging up from the top middle. The metallic edge on the outside perimeter is part of the negative terminal! Connecting the positive terminal to the negative one with something conducting (like a screwdriver or with a metallic measurement probe tip) will short-circuit the cell! Usually the edges are covered though, to prevent such mishaps (and to prevent the tabs connecting multiple cells from short-circuiting): There's a cardboard insulator on top of the right-side battery. Battery packs and BMSs Most of the time, you won't be working with the cells directly though, but with a "whole" battery, ie. cells in series and/or in parallel. They're typically packed in shrink-wrap sleeves, along with the necessary wiring, insulators (which could be cardboard, rubber or maybe some textile-like stuff?) and the BMS (Battery Management System)-board. One of my (earlier) custom-packs under work. Original Firewheel F260 packs, heatsinked BMS. My newer custom packs prepared to go for discharge tests. Close up on some generic battery. The BMS is there to sort of "control" the battery; first of, it has multiple protections: -Overdischarge / undervoltage protection: if the battery voltage drops too low, the discharge-side is disabled (ie. power feed to outside of the battery is cut). Better BMSs measure the individual cells, and cut the power whenever even a single cell goes too low. Lower quality BMSs apparently only monitor the total voltage -Overcurrent / short circuit protection: if the BMS detects too high discharge current, it will again cut the power (from the discharge side). -Overcharge / overvoltage protection: if the voltage of the battery pack (or again, even a single cell, depending on the BMS) goes too high, the charging side is disabled. -Some BMSs also have over/undertemperature protection (there's some form of temperature sensor, like an NTC-resistor or such), I don't know whether they will cut both charging & discharging side or just one or the other. Do note that I mention that the specific protections only affect the charging or discharging side, which might sound odd, but when you're dealing with devices that have regenerative braking, it's actually important. There are BMSs that have only single wires (meant for both charging and discharging). I had the "pleasure" to try such, and can tell that it sucks when the discharge-side cuts all power when strong braking momentarily pushes the voltage above the cut-off point In my case, it was a downhill... Also, the BMS handles balancing the cells. When the cells age, or have slightly different characteristics, they may go "out of sync", ie. instead of all the cells being at the same voltage (like, for example, the nominal 3.7V), some of them will be slightly higher and some will be lower. The problem is that the lower cells will hit the cut-off voltage sooner than the others, which can lead to the BMS cutting power even when "total voltage wise" there should still be plenty of charge left. These are called "dead" or faulty cells. On the other hand, if the BMS does not monitor single cells, they can get overdischarged, which isn't a good thing either. An overdischarged cell (typically it is said that the "critical" voltage is around 2.5V) can cause all sorts of trouble, like mentioned sudden cut-outs and worse. Faulty / dead cells should be replaced or if you don't have the means, or don't know anyone who could do it for you, replacing the entire pack. Battery university states that as a rule of thumb, a cell that's been lingering somewhere below 2V or 1.5V or thereabouts for more than a week should not be attempted to recharge. There's some form of electrochemical reaction taking place once the voltage gets too low, and metal deposits causing short circuits will start to form inside the cell. Attempting to charge such a cell can lead to fire or explosion. On the other end of the spectrum, during charging, if the BMS does not monitor individual cells, it could push some cells to too high voltage. This is especially dangerous, as from what I've read., the most common reason for a battery pack to catch fire or even explode is overcharging. Depending on the BMS, it may balance the cells at all times (or at least during charging), but it would seem that most (cheap) BMSs use simple method of "bypassing" cells once they reach the maximum voltage of 4.2V. That is why it has been suggested many times in these forums to charge the pack fully every now and then, to ensure that proper balancing takes place. If you need to cut open the shrink-wrap, you probably need a knife or blade of somekind (unless you can tear the wrap?), just be careful not to cut any wiring inside the package or scratch the BMS boards or components. Electrical components don't like high voltages, and your fingertips can cause bursts of static electricity up to thousands of volts, so I don't recommend poking around with bare hands either if you can help it. One way to lessen the risk is to touch a outlet earth strip or such to try and discharge any static build-up on your body before starting to work on the actual BMS electronics (if needed). Short-circuiting a cell (or an entire battery, ie. a bunch of cells in parallel and/or series) is a very bad idea. First off, the batteries can deliver very large currents, especially in short spikes. Even if the pack is rated for, say, 10A continuous / 20A max, it's perfectly capable of spewing out 100A or more in short-circuit. The high current can instantaneously melt metal, which can lead to metal objects welding into the battery/cell, severe burns and/or eye damage and such. My probe tips, destroyed by a very short-lived spike (the battery BMS cut the power) when I made the mistake of trying to measure the battery voltage while the probes were inserted into the current-measurement jacks! The pack and the meter survived this though, "only" needed to get new probe tips and replace the connector. Secondly, if the object/conductor causing the short circuit can withstand the current without being destroyed, the battery/cell will stay short-circuited. At this point, the cell(s) will start to heat up, and the internal pressure of the cells starts to go up. If lithium-ion cell is hot enough, it will go into "thermal runaway", a state where the chemical reactions inside the cell start a chainreaction, ie. burning. Even when the safety vents work, the likely result is the cell(s) "venting with flame": Although in the above picture, that is actually a LiPo-pack (punctured with nail), similar stuff can happen with metal-can 18650's. Also, as the above picture shows, puncturing the cell casing is a bad idea. I've seen videos of the flames shooting out a couple of meters (5-6 feet?) in sudden violent bursts. In the worst case (safety vent failure), the entire cell could explode. AFAIK, suffocating a lithium-fire may not work, the chemicals inside produce oxygen during the process, so something like a fire extinguishing "mat" may be useless. Still, cooling down the cells (with water, or otherwise) can stop the fire, if the temperature drops low enough. To ensure that the pack does not re-ignite, the cooling should be continued even after the fire has extinguished. The vapors and gasses the fire produces are also extremely unhealthy. Here's a video noisycarlos linked in the off-topic section some time back about extinguishing laptop-battery fires in aircraft: As you can see, they still continue pouring more water on top of the laptop even after the fire has ceased. Later on the video, it is also showed how the laptop re-ignites on it's own when the fire is extinguished just with a halon-fire extinguisher, as the cells will still stay hot enough for the reaction to keep going. The rest of the video shows how trying to extinguish & cool using ice won't work, because it will just thermally insulate the pack, but won't cool it down enough to stop the reaction (so the battery just keeps on re-igniting). So, is the whole thing going to blow up if you even look at it badly? No. There's multiple layers of protections (in the BMS + the cells themselves), so if it's of any decent quality, it shouldn't go "off" just by sitting there (overcharging, faulty BMS, short circuiting a shunted pack or such is of course a whole another issue ). But again, remember that the whole thing is always LIVE (only way I know to disable the BMS is to cut/disconnect the power wires completely, and even after that, the cells still hold charge)! Measuring battery voltages In the above picture, there are two (cheap and basic) multimeters. The important thing to remember is that you're measuring DC VOLTAGE, not AC voltage, resistance or current. If you don't have a "auto-ranging" meter (like neither of the above are), turn the range-selection dial to voltage range, with maximum voltage above the voltage you're about to measure (in this case, both are dialed to 200V DC-range). I prefer to use "normal" probe tips, like shown in the right side of the picture. The left-side meter has short alligator clips inserted, which are not that good for this type of job. Check that your probes are inserted into the correct jacks. The black one should be in the common ground (COM) -jack, and the red one should be in the voltage-measurement jack. DO NOT TRY TO MEASURE THE VOLTAGE IF THE PROBE IS INSERTED INTO CURRENT MEASUREMENT JACK. Unless you want to destroy your meter, probes, battery and/or your face Yeah, did that, on accident once, like seen in the picture before (in my case, the battery BMS cut the power pretty much instantly, but the spike was enough to melt a probe tip and destroy the battery connector). Another caveat, look at the UNI-T -meter holes: See what the middle jack (where the red probe goes to) says? "V ohm-sign mA...". The same hole is actually used to measure small currents (milliampere-range)! With this meter, if the dial is turned into the milliampere-choices, the meter will actually short the battery when the probes are inserted into the connector! So, make sure you got the probes right and the dial right BEFORE you start poking around with the probes. Even when the probes are set for voltage-measurement, usually the same probe-setup is also used for resistance measurement. Don't try to measure the internal resistance of the pack with a multimeter. It just doesn't work that way with these I can go into more detail about why, if someone's really interested, but will skip that now, just remember that you shouldn't try to measure battery resistance with a multimeter. Here are two kinds of connectors you'll most likely find in your battery pack(s). On the left, the red ones are male and female Deans (also known as "T-connector"). On the right, the yellow ones are XT60's. Both are commonly found in unicycle batteries. After your meter is setup correctly (and you have double-checked it ), hold the probes in your hands and insert them into the connector. Read the voltage value from the multimeter display and remove the probes. If you get the probes "wrong way around" (ie. the red/positive probe is in the battery negative and vice versa for the black one), you'll see a negative reading (like -58.2 instead of 58.2). This is not dangerous. Do not touch the metallic tips of the probes with your fingers while measuring. While the voltages aren't "that big", you don't want to take a chance (dry skin has very high resistance, so likely you couldn't get zapped by around 60-70V DC voltage, but if your skin is wet or has a cut or something, the resistance of your skin/body can be much lower). Current passing through your heart can stop it (it doesn't need to be AC!), and it can also cause internal burns while passing through your body otherwise. Another thing to look out for is not to let the probe tips touch each other while measuring, as they will short circuit the battery. The above picture is a bit of an exaggeration (I'm holding the probes with one hand, which is hardly optimal, as I needed the other for the camera), but you get the idea: especially when measuring male connectors (with the contact pins coming outwards instead of being some sort of holes), it's far too easy to slip and hit the other probe or make the measurement probe tip touch both terminals. If possible, fix the connector somehow so it cannot move while you put the probes in (even something like taping it to a surface could help, or putting it in a vice, just don't crush it by tightening too much). Depending on the BMS in the pack, you may not be able to get a voltage reading from the charge-side connector (typically it's the one with thinner wires). This usually indicates that the charging-side of the BMS has reverse protection diodes (or other circuitry to prevent reverse voltage). You should always get a reading from the discharge-side connector, assuming the pack and the BMS are working. Most BMSs have markings "C+" and "C-" where the charging wires connect and "P+" and "P-" for the discharge wire-connections. Some people measure the voltage from the charging port (when they have packs without reverse protection diodes, otherwise it won't work). Since the connector on the outside of the wheel is typically a male connector (pins pointing outwards), be especially careful if you go this route! It's even easier to slip and short circuit the pins with the probe tips. Do note that usually there is no short circuit / overcurrent protection on the charging side. That means that the BMS will NOT cut the power even if you accidentally short circuit them. Replacing connectors I won't go into much detail about this (ie. how to solder etc), there are plenty of tutorials about that, but instead just give you a couple of tips for now: -Do it one wire at a time. If you cut off both the wires from the old connector at the same time, you're left with to exposed wires, and will have to be careful to not let them touch. If you already did that, tape the "naked" ends of the wires with electric insulation tape, and only remove it on the one you're working with (and not until you're ready to put it into place ) -Even when you cut only one wire at a time, remember that the connector (which after you've cut the first wire, will still be connected on the other terminal) is still live, to be safe you can tape the exposed holes/pins with insulation tape -Remember to put any heat shrink tube on the wire BEFORE you solder it (I've done the mistake of forgetting the heat shrink on multiple occasions, leading to cursing and having to desolder and re-solder the connector ) -Use "helping hands" and/or vise to keep the connector and the wire (one!) in place during soldering -Inspect the solder joint and heatshrink it before starting to work on the other wire (or redo if it didn't go that well, especially with the discharge side-wires that have high currents, you really don't want the solder joint to fail during use )
  29. 17 points
    Since i did not find the original thread ( imho the posts were just "hidden" in some other thread..?) from the first dynamometer results published at http://electrotransport.ru/ (linked here by @Raptor) here a new thread with some new results: http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?msg=973382 The full tests including description of the measurements are published at http://airwheel.ru/test-monokoles-na-dinostende/ (also with a comment that the dynamometer is made for motorcycles with much more HP and so the results are not really exact absolute numbers but a nice comparison between the different wheels)! Also i did not see a comment about the "measurement probs" he mentioned in his first test: He could not start the dynamometer with full power from the wheels, because some fuses burnt... So he had to accelerate it "slowly" up to ~10-15km/h before he could apply full thrust. So some/most of the charts show some quite low powers for low speeds. Mabye he found a way to overcome this prob or it is still seen (imho in the charts for the high power 18 inch wheels?) Some interesting first points: - the IPS Zero shows some strange behaviour: The power output halves for speeds about 16 km/h! Also with a max power of 1.1kW it is one of the weakest of the tested models... - bigger batteries (capacity) give more power! ( how to translate "Na no na ned" to english? ) - nicely to be seen in the comparison between the KS16 340Wh and 840Wh model. - The MSuper V3 1600Wh 84V started a new era: it shows a max power of 4.7kW! - a nice statement regarding Airwheel (not included in the summary charts): "Test shatters all hope that this device can drive" -Test of ACM with custom LiFePo4 batteries: ~30% power increase! - Test of Inmotion V8 with Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh cells: ~20% power increase, but the internal fuse was not able to withstand the increased current... It would be great to see the results from @EUC Extreme's custom Gotway in comparison to a standard factory version! A Quick overview of the results (links to the pics of his homepage): 14 inch wheels: 14 inch with more "power": 16 inch wheels: 18 inch wheels:
  30. 17 points
    Youtube is giving me trouble!! Video is loading as I write!! I'm gonna be a couple minutes late. UPDATE: I don't know if everyone is cool with it but it looks like it's gonna be 40 minutes before the link is ready. I did post my excuse before 12:00 though HERE WE GO!
  31. 17 points
    Hello my name is Tobias Olsen, I'm from Denmark and this is my submission for the 1st EUC talent contest. I hope you like it, this is my first video on this forum. Submitted 29/09/2016 - 19.46 Danish timezone
  32. 17 points
    French meet up with 174 participants
  33. 17 points
    Edit: scene commentary: 1) Tina's a bit Camera shy 2) Finished KS16 in the glossy black 3) Walk-though the first stage of the production line 4) KS 16 climb testing on a 25° incline 5) Demonstration of the matte black finish scratch resistant properties 6) Same as above but for the glossy black 7) Strength of the outer shell 8) Testing the functions of each KS16 control-board 9) Here the Wheels are tested by running them in a static position until the battery is drained, then recharged on these stations 10) Walk-through the new factory space 11) PCB production space: BMS, control-boards, finishing stations 12) Applying the epoxy coating 13) Returning from lunch to the factory with the (young) engineering team
  34. 17 points
    Had to remove the control-board for a replacement that's arriving next week, after a failed firmware update (my KS16 was serial number #9, that was incompatible with v1.20). While I had everything apart, took the opportunity to weigh the main components. Of course in the future it would be great if a manufacturer could produce a 840Wh/800W 16" class of Wheel that weighs less than 12 kg; but as can be seen below, there's no obvious ballast in this thing that could be easily shed. Maybe the shell could be reduced by 1kg, or in the motor they could replace aluminum with composites for areas like the motor cover, it's not going to be easy. According to these scales, the total Wheel weight with everything still attached is just a tad less than 17kg. Inner shell with the retractable handle is 2.6kg A view from the top of the Wheel: notice the opening with proper seal to prevent water from getting underneath the board. Control-board is only 250gm including the heat-sink. Each pedal with rubberized surface is 650gm. Pair of aluminum pedal support arms weigh 750gm. Each 18650 cells is pretty standarized at 45-50gm each. The MJ1 has a specification of 47gm, with 64x of these, the batteries themselves weigh 3kg, with another 250 gm for packaging, wires, conductive connecting strips. Finally the motor with the pedals & support arms attached—in the graph, I excluded these parts from the motor weight. The tire & inner-tube weigh around 1kg by themselves, so the motor weight itself is around 6.5kg
  35. 16 points
  36. 16 points
    Ride responsibly and Wear suitable protective gear! = Safe Speed = 70kg rider >40% charge. Heavier rider or lower battery? Ride slower! 21 km/h - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 21 km/h - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 22 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 23 km/h - Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) 25 km/h - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 28 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS16B (680/840Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway ACM (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 35 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh) 35 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) 45 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) = Real Range = 20-25 km/h urban commuting, 70kg rider, not aggressive riding, not offroad, above 15°C ambient temperature, not hilly, not windy, new good condition batteries (5km rounded). 20 km - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 20 km - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 20 km - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 20 km - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 20 km - Inmotion V5F (320Wh) 25 km - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V5F+ (480Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 40 km - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS16B (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway ACM (680Wh) 40 km - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (680Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16B (840Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 50 km - Gotway ACM (820Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 50 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (820Wh) 55 km - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 80 km - Gotway ACM (1300Wh) 80 km - Gotway Msuper v3s (1300Wh) 100 km - Gotway ACM (1600Wh) 100 km - Gotway Msuper v3s+ (1600Wh) 105 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W, KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) 150 km - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) * Real Range calculation: Capacity Wh / 16 = km Inmotion V8 example: 480Wh / 16 = 30km * Peak power calculation: Fully charged, new good condition batteries (100W rounded). battery pack voltage (serial) * number of packs (parallell) * nominal discharge rate * 95% switching efficiency Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) example: 84V * 4packs * 10A * 0.95 = 3192W The standard battery cells used in EUCs have 10 Ampere nominal discharge rate. Dynanometer tests have shown the batteries have not delivered any more in practice so 10A was used for all calculations. 15-cell pack = 63V * 10A = 630W 16-cell pack = 67.2V * 10A = 672W 20-cell pack = 84V * 10A = 840W 95% efficiency (5% waste heat) * Safe Speed calculation: Ninebot One S2 (310Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Ninebot One E+ (320Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Gotway MCM4 (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14C (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14D (420Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 141 Zero (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) : 550W nominal, 1600W peak √ 550W = 23 km/h 23 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1323W OK. Inmotion V8 (480Wh): 800W nominal, 1600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 25 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1563W OK. Gotway MCM4 (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS14C (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16B (840Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16S (820Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway ACM (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh): 2000W nominal, 2600W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh): 1200W nominal, 5100W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh): 2000W nominal, 3200W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Monster (2400Wh): 1600W nominal, 8000W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh): 2000W nominal, 5100W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W OK.
  37. 16 points
    Hi Everyone! As the proud new owner of an 820Wh MSuper V3 (Purchased from www.Tec-Toyz.com), I wanted to start a thread dedicated to Mods to the V3. Please add anything you've done and I'll do the same as I go along. I'll start off with my Carbon Fiber Side Panels. I'll also be wrapping around the headlight and switches too, but I won't have time till after this weekend. Planned Mods: Carbon Fiber Touches (Covering the Red Areas) - Decided to Paint Flat Black. Much Better! Thinning of the Side Pads. Maybe about 1/4" thinner on each side. - (After Riding More, Decided NOT to do this) Brighter Headlight - Done Mud Flap - Done Maybe some Special Effect LED's ?? Parking Stand while stopped for Coffee, etc. - Updated Bumpers! Works great now! Change Pedal Positions for More Support - Done! EL Lighting - Done! More Secretive Ideas still coming... Stay Tuned!!!! Carbon Fiber Vinyl to replace the Blueish pads. LED Headlight Upgrade: Mud Flap: Parking Stand (Updated!): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPH8VM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Added Electric Blue Pinstripe:
  38. 16 points
    I sent Lewis a V8 to try out, (he has 7.1m Subscribers!) gets a decent airing, especially at the end....
  39. 16 points
    Last night I had a rant at another member, openly in a thread. It was wrong and I should not have done it. what I should have done was addressed my issue with the member via private message. don't go looking for it, I deleted it ( hid it) because no one else needed to read it who hadn't already done so. i have since contacted that member respectfully, via pm. i apologise to any member who was offended by the language, or content. and I apologise to the member here publicly, for potentially embarrassing him, although, I actually think he cannot be embarrassed, and that was a complement. ( name withheld, because not doing so would be a second form of public "calling out" which is not appropriate either.) next time I get hot under the collar, I'll wait a full hour before pushing "send". I'm sure that will prevent any further silliness on my part.
  40. 16 points
    I'm just recovering from a major fall. I broke my leg and ankle in three places, tore all my ligaments off my foot, going down a somewhat steep hill in SF. I am 240 lbs/ 105kg and I assume the thing couldn't handle me. I was on a GW V3 and my motor just cut out and there goes my leg.. I was not going fast a steady 6mph breaking on a maybe 10-12 degree slope when all of the sudden it cut out and yeah.. I found out that there are not only limits to how fast but also on how much breaking or voltage or whatever you can draw from those machines. I highly recommend wearing boots, motorcycle or very solid ankle protecting boots like the once worn by EMS personal to avoid having to deal with the ligament damage not to mention fractures.. Will I ride again? Probably but avoid those hills
  41. 16 points
    Hello folks, So I received my V5F+ on Saturday morning (which I ordered from @Jason McNeil at ewheels.com), and spent the whole weekend riding around Brooklyn, NY with @vido (Who also received his new KS 16" on Saturday as well). I have to say, this has been the best wheel I've owned. It is quick (16 mph/ 25 kph) (But will be 18.6 mph, 30 kph after the new firmware update is released for the V5F+). When you turn on the wheel, it has a very nice and subtle sound, nothing annoying like the KS 14"'s loud beep. When you shut it down it also has a nice pleasant shut down sound (Like if somebody was playing drums). I believe these can be disabled in the mobile application, I haven't tested it yet, but I saw the "Silence - System Sounds" option. I'm used to cruising at a 15-16 mph speed, so I keep hitting tiltback kinda often. The tiltback is a little aggressive but not in a bad way. The wheel will also say "Danger, Danger" and some other thing when you exceed the tiltback speed. Their is a battery indicator on the front of the wheel (5 bars). It seems I lose my first bar once the battery drops to 80%. The battery lasts a long time for this model. I probably got 17-20 miles on it, but I haven't killed it since I charge it between rides if I can. The lowest I bought it to was 2 bars (And probably the middle of the second bar to be specific) which I believe was around 28-38%. The pedals are high and you can make extremely sharp and comfortable turns. This wheel has been the best in terms of pedal height and sharpness. The grip tape on the pedals is also very well done and solid. I never felt like I was going to slip, although I want to try this in rain to have better verification (Or I can just wet the pedals xD). The motor is very strong, it feels solid and it doesn't feel like I'm going to fall off the wheel, even when I'm getting tiltback. The cushion at the top of the wheel I believe is made out of leather, and it is very comfortable. The sides of my feet did hurt after a while because I'm not used to these pedals yet. Also the pedals do feel small compared to other wheels. The wheel does come with some ankle paddings that you can optionally place. After I road a lot during the weekend without them, I finally decided to place the cushions close to the pedals. That made a huge difference. My feet feel much more comfortable after the addition. Long holding the power button turns on or off the wheel. A single tap on the power button will turn on or off the head light. The headlight is very strong. The Android application for this wheel is very nice. You can even perform wheel diagnostics right on the app which tests things like the Motor, Battery, Sensors, etc. When pumping air into the wheel, there is a panel that you can lift in order to make the valve accessible. I believe this is the best combination between the Ninebot's -cover-the-whole-wheel-for-looks type of design vs an always accessible valve. Overall this is a solid wheel and I highly recommend it. In my opinion, this is the best, most agile, wheel on the market for the specs, 14" tire size, and application. OMG PICTURES!! - Jonathan
  42. 16 points
    18 1/2 hours of information might be missing from this forum but I think this is the best time to take a moment and thank John @John Eucist for everything he has done to give us a wonderful place to gather and talk about electronic unicycles and every other subject that interests us. 18 1/2 hours is nothing in it will be fun to try to replace that which has been lost, and talk about some new subjects as well I'm glad I found this place and I really appreciate it. I hope everybody has a fantastic day Thank you @John Eucist... very much
  43. 16 points
    After seeing one of Alex's videos, Lee Jeans invited him to New York to do a shoot with an Electric Unicycle—believe this was aired in Asia on broadcast television... My minor part, was that I sent the King Song Wheel featured in the video.
  44. 16 points
    First of all: I'm really glad, this lesson ended relatively harmless. And I perfectly agree with @nomad's take away: respect that third level alarm. And I guess, pretty much all of us agree to that. Apart from that, I'm not all that happy with the bias in this discussion - so, forgive me for a bit of "party pooping": When it comes to "responsible riding", my priorities are: 1. protect all others from harm, 2. protect yourself. No argument about the sense of wearing protective gear, just realize, it only protects yourself - nobody else. Watching the video, I can't really judge the speed from that low angle. So I have to assume, that MS3 acts just like mine: without additional stress, the third alarm fires between 37 and 38 kph. Overspeed cut-off stops the wheel altogether between 52 and 53 kph (lift test). When I watched the video waiting for the announced crash to happen, I cringed several times pleading "not now" when the wheel zoomed past pedestrians with 38+ kph or right next to a car lane at similar speed. Sorry for spoiling the fun here: much rather than worrying, what a 45 kph impact could do to the shell of my beloved wheel, I worry, what a 20Kg brick flying at 45 kph could break hitting a person. While I sure love riding fast (got my MS3 up to 45.11 kph GPS) my simple take away from that is: stay well inside the safe envelope (i.e. no 3rd beeps) while people, bikes or cars could be in the flight path in case my wheel goes ballistic. On the ever so popular subject "its the manufacturers responsibility to make it safer": sure it is. But: In the absence of governmental regulation, the customers rule with their buying decisions. I know for myself, that buying a wheel in the highest performance range (Msuper V3) from a tiny Chinese company with barely 30 employees, I opt-in to be an alpha tester. As I plead guilty on that count, my urge to bash manufacturers is somewhat more gentle. A 120 years of unquestionable safety improvements with cars still left me with a vehicle, that allows me to kill myself or others at any time. The improvements sure helped to reduce (involuntary) accidents and lower their consequences, but the only conceivable way to eliminate driver risk altogether would be to take away any control over the vehicle from that driver. So, yes, I positively want better, more reliable feedback from my wheel, but I don't want it to entirely take over control. BTW: at approx. 85Kg dressed for success, I consider myself a fairly average European. Lately I had a chance to ride up and down some rather steep BMX trails in the woods. The MS3 never failed to accelerate from almost stand still at the steepest parts. At least at such low speeds, I'm not missing torque and just love that beast. Have fun & wheel safely!
  45. 16 points
    Always fun to ride with my son...
  46. 16 points
  47. 16 points
    WARNING: it might take some time for the page to load, there's a ton of photos below.. Today I spent much of the afternoon tearing apart the V5F+ in order to get a sense of how the Wheel was constructed, assess the difficulty of routine maintenance (like changing the tire) & what areas could be improved upon. Inmotion have a fairly good disassembly video with step-by-step instructions (in Chinese for now). Taking the Wheel completely apart took about 45 minutes the first time, second & third attempt got the process down to less than 10 minutes (second time was to install the datalogger). Similar to the KS16 & Ninebot One, the trend in design is in favour of both outer & inner shells. Outer shell gives the Wheel its strength & rigidity, while the inner one is just for show. Here's a picture of the work desk(s)(neither of which are technically mine ) with all the components flayed out. Curved battery pack is pretty unusual, the only one of it's kind, its what allows the Wheel to be so slender; BMS housed in the central hump. Even though the battery compartment chamber is completely protected, Inmotion have done a great job on adding sealant where the wires feed into the pack. Close up of the Control-panel: no rats nest of cables here, everything properly laid out. A couple minor things here: 1) connector sockets just have Chinese labels, 2) on the left side, there are 2x two-pin connectors; if you don't have a reference photo, it's possible to get them mixed up. Fuse is rated to 30A. This picture gives you a better sense of the MOSFET heat-sink, it's similar to the 9B1 in that the MOSFETs are mounted vertically. Also like the KS & 9B boards, there is a thin film of protective coating over the circuitry. On closer inspection, there some parts of the PCB that does not appear to be coated. As this Wheel operates at a higher than normal voltage, 84V, it's important to ensure that board is discharged after shutdown. This is the battery housing compartment, internal speaker, charging port & reset switch. Holding the reset switch down powers off the Wheel (& I believe also discharges the control-board). Front headlight (yes, the V5F/+ has a directionality to it), battery meter, and spin prevention switch. Inside the Wheel housing: should keep the water out where it shouldn't be... The control-board heat-sink exposure is comparatively not very large. At the moment there is no temperature reading within the App—obviously this is an oversight that needs to be remedied. Now onto the weighty business of weighing up the components.... This scale has 50g resolution. Battery pack is 2.1kg. Each of the 40x 18650 cells individually weighs ~50g, so this this pretty good with the packaging & BMS etc. Motor, tire, support arms & one pedal (I was testing the pedal angle): the pedal is 400g, so the motor support arms, inner-tube & tire is actually around 5.9kg (exactly half of the Wheel's total weight) Outer-shell is extremely light at 400g each. As an aside, these are symmetrical; when taking them off, quite a bit of force is required to pry them from the inner-shell. Inner-shell, 750g (+30g of dirt!). I was too lazy to take off the control-board from the inner-shell: knowing the weight of just the shell, it's easily enough to calculate the weight (along with the speaker, wires & switches is 350g. Pedals: with the supporting arm, this is exceptionally light by the standards of other Wheels. The traverse covers protect the Wheel from water ingress, padding for the legs & control-board cover—interestingly there's a cover installed in the empty bay on the opposite side, not much room in there for anything, but don't know why they bothered adding a protective cover. Finally all (optional) handle kit, 450g. After putting the Wheel back together she looks as good as new! Well not quite, this is the original photo... I managed to scratch up the shell a bit (nothing major, just not pristine anymore.), recommend putting something underneath to prevent scratches. We'll be ordering a bunch of this sacrificial outer shells for replacements. It's only about a 5 minute job to swap them out. Conclusion of the exercise: there's a lot of thought & attention that has been put into the construction of this little Wheel wonder. Nice to see the detail that Inmotion have put into this that make servicing less of something to be dreaded. It also has the appearance of being adequately water-resistant.
  48. 16 points
    Unexpected I found some minutes!! I am so excited I just have to do it, Here are some of my thoughts about the V5F+ compared to the ninebot But at first: The shopping experience was great. There are not a lot of informations about the wheel available, but @Jason McNeil did a good job to present specs and details. As far as I can say, he did not make any promises that did not become true. I heard about him 2 weeks ago, but it was a kind of blind trust. And I have not been disappointed. He handled the wheel for a fair price, questions have been answered within hours (when he was sleeping) and within minutes (when he was awake). So thanks @Jason McNeil, I am one of the first if not the first proud owner of the V5F+ in Germany. Ok, what you all really want to know is something about the wheel, right? My personal impressions This may vary from person to person, but this is the most beautiful Wheel I have seen so far in real live. The Quality is great, surface, haptic everything lets you feel you are holding a high quality product in your Hand. The pedals have so much more grip, I am not sure how long this kind of Sand Paper surface will offer this good grip as it gets used und dirty, we will see. But for now it is a night and day difference. The pedals are much higher! This lifts up the center of gravity a bit. This was the aspect I was a little bit worried about as I did not know, how this would influence the whole driving experience. But…. In my eyes it is a big advantage! This wheel is so handy, maneuverable! If you do very narrow slalom it is easier to throw the wheel from one to the other side. This makes it also more sensitive to changes in balance. You have to get used to it, but I like it. I had so many dangerous moments with the NB1 doing narrow curves and scratching with the pedals over the street. The sensitivity is high, it feels hard. I was used to driving mode 3 with the ninebot. This may be a 1 or 2.. The acceleration is good, but I did not push the wheel to the limits. My max speed was 22km/h measured with the app, I need more time for testing. The wheel is really quiet on speed even more quiet as the NB, on low speed the Motor of the NB feels a bit smoother. Difficult to describe but you can feel and hear „steps“ from the Motor like a Stepper motor with a lower stepper resolution (I know that from building many 3D Printer) But these are very small differences. The wheel behaves good, doing hard brakes, direction changes, going back and forth. I rode quite fast over our lawn - the NB1 made a rattling sound as the battery knocked around in the housing. The V5F is smooth, no unusual noises. Driving on one leg is A LOT easier with this wheel. The position of the protective Pads is great for one leg wheeling, the hight of the pedals helps because the leverage that pushes against your leg is smaller! Of course it is also caused by wheel size. There are useful accessories available like the handle bar and the protective bag. I have both, the quality is comparable to the wheel. I like the bag, it is hold in position with hooks an has some reflective stripes on it. As I already mentioned, this wheel feels a lot lighter (2kg less than ninebot). It is a lot more handy thanks to smaller dimensions. If you do 180° turns it is easier to throw it around, less weight you have to move. For the camping holiday, for me this is the better wheel. I am not sure how comfortable a 14 inch wheel is on long distances (compared to 16“). I like being able to see the battery level while charging! The Plug for charging is free from orientation. The rubber letter „M“ on the pedals prevents the pedals from scratching the cover. There are a kind of protection pads for the ankle in the package. If you are experienced, you don´t need them. I never touch the cover with my ankles while riding. What else? Oh, the power plug is for UK only - luckily I had a EU cable as a spare. Have a nice weekend, I will have ;-) Manu
  49. 16 points
    Another session from South Norwood recreation ground in South London. Mostly working on improving the consistency of my 180 shove-its which are much less painful to practice since investing in some ankle and shin guards!
  50. 16 points
    49km and 6 hours (1hr beer and food break included) ride in Paris, with an itinerary carefully crafted by Denkam. The weather was great, spring is finally here, and with Denkam you always are in for discovering unexpected tiny streets, and, of course, cobblestones. That's Denkam's signature...