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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Well guys, here's the conclusion to my little Mten3 repair odyssey. I'm sorry @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer", but you're not going to get my battery pack. Thanks for the push to dig deeper into though
  2. 14 points
    I have determined why my Mten3 failed. To summarize, Gotway designed and/or provided a battery pack that is not compatible with the power requirements of the powerful Mten3 motor. Here is the video that lays it all out followed by some photographs. As I type this I feel inclined to write the battery pack off as a total loss. Considering how much a new battery pack would cost, I may have to buy a new Mten3.
  3. 13 points
  4. 11 points
    So today after "may be" having solved my charging problems I spend my first 15 kms on my brand new Tesla. It was a fine but quite windy day, I had pumped up my tires to 43 psi for this first ride and I had recalibrated my Tesla, so the pedals are about 2 or 3 degrees tilted back, which I prefer with all my unicycles, since it gives me a feeling of more security and confidence when speeding up and cruising with higher speeds. It's just a slight adjustment however, nothing dramatic. I own and ride a Ninebot E+ (on which I learned), a KS16, an ACM (820Wh), and the MSuper V3s+ (which I ride most of the time). Now here is my first impression of my new Tesla: First of all: It looks really beautiful and shiny for a Gotway, I love the looks, but there is still room for improvement. The front with all the switches and charging ports looks ugly and they could have made it nicer with a simple bonnet like cover. The rear and side view however is rather beautiful. 2. It's very agile and responsive and it rides much more stable than my ACM. Is it as stable as the MSuper V3s+? So far I think not! And this is because today was a very windy day. I once got blown off my Ninebot E+ on a day like this in the mountains, and it was not pleasant! It seemed as if one of our mountain gods and spirits was making fun of me, blowing me off my path and I though I heard them all laughing when I landed in the ditch next to a rice field. So even now my MSuper keeps impressing me, how stable it behaves even in the strongest winds. If you consider the wind, the Tesla is not as stable as the MSuper I thought after this short 14 km trip in high winds. So the Tesla is very, very stable and solid, but the MSuper is rock solid. 3. The Tesla has lots of power and rides very smooth. 4. The battery was down to 80% (6 of 8 indicator lights) after my first 14 km. That was a bit disappointing, since I am used to riding my MSuper the whole week without charging and I never ever got down to 60% at the end of the week. I once rode the distance from Hikone to Nagahama and back, which is about 62 km and I still had 50% battery left. But for everyday cruising and commuting the Tesla should still have sufficient range. You just have to charge it every day. So no big deal. 5. Now when I got home and wanted to charge it, I had the same problem that I thought I had solved: The Tesla did not charge! I disconnected all cables again, reconnected them - green light! it did not charge. I disconnected all cables a second time, tested the batteries individually - green light! Both batteries did not charge, as they did, when I remedied this problem before. I reconnected everything again, tried to charge again - green light! The Tesla didn't want to charge. I switched the Tesla on to check the battery level (6 indicators). Just out of curiosity, I connected the charger with the Tesla switched on - RED light! It started to charge. I switched it off - Still RED light! It continued to charge and it is charging now. Since I have no idea of electronics, this behavior seems kind of magical to me and I have no idea, why it charges and why it didn't charge before. I will keep an eye on it. May be one of you has a reasonable explanation. Summary: 1. The Tesla is definitely superior to the ACM, that I own. 2. For off-road riding, long distance cruises and stability on windy days, the MSuper V3s+ plus is second to none of the wheels I own and (for now) it is in my opinion superior to the Tesla. 3. However, if I could have only one wheel, I probably whould choose the TESLA. It is stable, powerful, agile, great for performing tricks, looks beautiful and offers sufficient range for commuting. 4. But since I can have both, I will use the MSuper for touring and off-road mountain trips. I have been in the deepest woods with it where I am almost sure the Tesla could not follow ... BUT I will use the Tesla on rainy days and in urban surroundings and especially at night to show off with its beauty. It doesn't challenge my friends with their flashy fascinating V8s, but it's faster, lol! That's it for a first impression of the TESLA after a 14 km ride. (To be continued)
  5. 11 points
    I regularly get tired of explaining in the Russian forum - what's the difference why the wheel broke? This is the marriage of the manufacturer. If it's a lot - the manufacturer sucks. I honestly sold both RockWheel and two years of GotWay, but I was very tired of the delirium that occurs with the GotWay. Even riders in the Russian Federation already understand that GotWay makes a disgusting quality. You, the majority, living in a civilized Europe or America - continue to argue with the fact that it will do so. No, it will not. The manufacturer must be responsible for its quality. His marriage and low quality can not be covered - "but he makes fast wheels." So what's the difference how a beginner "burned" the tester? That's for me personally no. This is the marriage of the manufacturer. I am the exclusive distributor of Inmotion and Kingsong since the summer of 2016, but I continued to sell GotWay so that the riders had a choice. And regularly argued with Inmotion and kingsong because of this. They forced me to refuse, but I resisted and sold. But what I was shown sales in 2017 - I was shocked. Here are the statistics. So do not do business. This is a complete absurdity. 33%. Claims, refunds, a blow to my reputation. I do not care about the reputation of the GotWay. But almost every breakdown in the Russian Federation was brought back to my reputation as a seller. You can try as much as you want to protect a low quality, but it will not get any better from it, unfortunately. Next, I drop out of the discussion, since you are not my sales market and convince you of the obvious to me is not very interesting. Also, my English is not so good as to communicate with you on equal terms and give arguments.
  6. 11 points
  7. 10 points
    Uhhmmmm.... Actually rode like this for about a kilometer to the garden waste disposal site. When you go above 20 kph with an empty wheelbarrow, it becomes quite bouncy.
  8. 10 points
    Trying to work with GW on improving reliability on two technical fronts: up-rated IRFP4468 MOSFETs & the use of 60-80A fuses. The absence of fuses in their Wheels, as Marty has recently encountered with his MTen3, is not satisfactory. When the Wheel is in a jam, without any current throttling programmed onto the firmware, the battery will throw everything it has at it, with the inevitable outcome of either, 1) destroying the MOSFETs, 2) ruining the battery pack, or both, it's completely unnecessary. With a 20S6P pack, that momentary peak burst of power could well exceed 10KW, way beyond the survivability threshold. For the next order requirements, I've insisted that a fuse be added. Trouble is that I'm getting some push-back, GW Engineer's aren't convinced; apparently the Korean Dealer had GW do a limited run with an embedded board fuse & they encountered some cases of it blowing under 'normal operation'. From the picture, this looks to be a 48A (?), probably it needs to be up-rated to a 60A or 80A fuse, there's no good technical reason why the correct rating can't be fitted, with the desired function of sacrificing the fuse rather than having something more catastrophic happen. Remember the bad firmware GW put out in June? The purpose of that change was supposed to better manage the Current, with the intention of lowering the incidence rate of board failures. As sophisticated as the current roster of Wheels are today, taking the longer term view, the industry needs some fresh-blood competition, probably Engineered Outside of China to create a Wheel that is built with fewer compromises.
  9. 9 points
    Thanks to everyone who has supported me and my crazy-too-many EUC videos, I have achieved a critical mass that allows me to own the Electric Unicycles channel on YouTube. I've wanted that name and have been somewhat surprised that it hasn't already been taken. Now when I'm out and about riding my wheel and people ask questions I'll be able to tell them to go to http://youtube.com/electricunicycles Over time I'll make it look prettier and provide additional links that may be useful to newcomers. I want to continue publishing videos that attempt to convey the fun and thrill of our sport.
  10. 9 points
    OK, I have since more closely inspected the two cells and the damage appears to be localized to the plastic. I've measure the voltage on both packs and they are the same. Sooooo, I just soldered a piece of 12 gauge wire onto the tabs, and the solder seems very secure. I think I'll add another wire as you suggest for redundancy Folks, I'm going to try and put this wheel back together!
  11. 8 points
  12. 8 points
    I finally received my Soloshot 3. I'm still playing around with the settings but it followed me great on this test run.
  13. 8 points
    Everyone, thank you very much for your replies, concerns, suggestions, etc. I really appreciate the sentiments that you've expressed. I'm leaning towards throwing the battery pack away. With my naked eyes I could not see some of the damage, but when reviewing the macro video shots I can see that at least one of the cells is damaged and that there is battery 'juice' near the burnt strip. These battery packs are highly manufactured, and I don't think that I want to trust my body riding on a wheel where I've hacked it back together. Maybe I would attempt a repair if I had the requisite knowledge and experience, but I don't. The construction of the battery case and battery pack is actually impressive - somehow I doubt Gotway actually makes these because they look too good. It's the lack of system design that placed too much of a load on the battery. As @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer" says, there are all made like this one. We all know the difficulties of attempted communication with Gotway or Chinese resellers. It's the risk that we take, or at least I'm willing to take to experience the joys of wheels such as the Mten3. I do not think that the battery pack itself is defective, but Gotway's system design is lacking (to say the least). They should engineer a wheel such that the battery pack is protected by either a fuse or a more sophisticated power electronics design. @eddiemoy, I've said this time and time - it's not blind loyalty to Gotway. It's my desire to experience wheels that exist no where else. Please direct me to where I can buy an alternative to the Mten3. If there were actual comparable wheels but of higher build/design quality than Gotway, I would not buy a Gotway wheel. This is why I own a KS14S and not the Gotway MCM. @Duf, please don't be down on the Mten3, or consider it a safety hazard. I put mine through amazing stresses with all of the heavy reversals (my videos only showed a tiny fraction of what I've done). This was a case of me causing extreme power demand from the battery. Because of Gotway's poor system design, the battery failed instead of the MOSFETs. Normal riding at speed does not require huge power demands. I will either purchase a new Mten3 or battery, but I will have an Mten3 in my life. I love this wheel. @Rehab1, Gotway may "owe me one", but I think we both know that they will probably never get this feedback or do anything about it I'll send this info to the Green Traveling shop, but that's pretty much a black hole (I assume). I'm still Gotway's biggest fanboy, but I'm never going to keep from exposing crappy design or manufacturing from the light of day to protect their (or any company) image. I buy all of my products so I owe nobody preferred treatment. I'm always dubious of 'reviews' by people who are given products. In case there's any doubt, everyone still needs to buy an Mten3 to experience the joys of this wheel But I sure wouldn't mind if KingSong released a 10-inch wheel
  14. 8 points
    It certainly did seem to continue driving forward for a short distance, almost with the front casing on the ground. Then it seemed to either shutdown due to a detected error state or in an effort to maintain that forward lean it had to accelerate harshly either to max speed and cutout or until it caught up with the ejected rider, ran him over, and tumbled causing shutdown. Either way this crash sucks and had me highly reflective. If this is the result of bad firmware processing again it is very bad news for Gotway's rep as the Tesla needs to be their shining star to prove they can build a safe wheel to the rest of us who are not prepared to drink the Gotway Koolaid. If it is hardware failure (I heard the wheel was ridable so unlikely) then again this is a big QC setback for Gotway especially given some of the disappointing assembly discoveries this own forums members have made when looking in their own new wheels. If neither of the above caused the crash then it is result of the guy being allowed to operate the wheel out of its safe operation envelope because the bump was nothing, the guy is a featherweight rider and it was not cold (people in shorts). If the battery were so low as to allow this to happen then Gotway (in this instance but my comment is to all manufactures) must introduce stringent non-overridable battery based speed limiting that actually works. Maybe Kingsong was on to something with the heavy handed battery induced speed limiting on their old firmware. If the guy were riding so fast that the motor had insufficient torque to drag his skinny arse over that very minor surface imperfection then again max speed must be limited by non-overridable tiltback while there is still plenty of power in reserve.These limits needs to be set considering realistic rider weights and imperfect riding conditions. These devices are not the 12mph toys they were 3 or 4 years ago. They go insanely fast for a one wheeled device. It is just a matter of time before someone dies because of crap QC, crap components, or insufficient limiting of abilities. Manufacturers need a change of mindset and to step up and do what is needed to reduce failure rates and increase safety margins. If that means a safe 50kph wheel needs a 4kW motor and 8, 10, even 12 parallel battery packs, weighs 100lb and is priced at $4k then so be it. I know there are those who will shout that a speed limit impinges on their freedoms but come on, this is downright dangerous now. Accept some limits now or massive overregulation later after some poor bastard has died and a lawmaker pays attention. <soapbox goes away>
  15. 8 points
    More photos on the accident site where the Taiwan Tesla rider fell. Personally, I think its a faulty unit rather than him being too fast or road conditions being appalling. Tesla at 80% battery should not cutout for such a small bump at moderate speed. If I were him, I'd try to claim Warranty for a replacement unit. What are you views on this? https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/1621618561229793/?comment_id=1622089671182682&reply_comment_id=1623027251088924&notif_id=1510916311504072&notif_t=group_comment_reply
  16. 7 points
    The motor comes sans pedals brackets, tire, etc. So it's not very heavy. The most difficult part of this will be removing and re-installing the pedal brackets. You will need a robust wrench precisely the size of the nut. Do not use an adjustable wrench or a wrench that's "close enough". Doing so will most likely result in a rounded over nut. These nuts need to be tightened very firmly, so removing them will be a workout and installing them will be a workout. It's important that you secure the wheel properly such that you can get the proper leverage. His is a video that I made on tightening the Monster nuts. This will give you an idea of the effort required. And I'm also including two videos by @Rehab1 which were very helpful to me when I replaced my ACM motor.
  17. 7 points
    At that price I would buy it just to decorate. @Hunka Hunka Burning Love‘s Flammybot would look pale in comparison.
  18. 7 points
    Yes, yes, yes of course. Ideal Tesla. 1 of 3 in the Russian Federation - burned. In my opinion, the GotWay must urgently close and cease to issue a marriage in such quantity. They do not respect either the rider or the dealer. http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=48869.msg1221251#msg1221251 [spoiler=the best quality in the world is GotWay] [/spoiler]
  19. 7 points
    Admit it, you've done this
  20. 7 points
    Me before a ride I took this past Sat. It was 35F that day so I had some cold weather gear on.
  21. 6 points
    Lately I've been enabling the Maximum Current alarm in my WheelLog app. I have it set at 90 amps (for my Tesla). When the current demand exceeds this value I get a vibration buzz on my wrist. This has been very educational in learning about where my wheel demands power. When starting from a stop and going up a steep incline - buzz. Probably to be expected. But most interesting to me is when it occurs at high-speed. If I'm riding > 20-mph (32-kph) hit a small bump or drop in the road I will often get the buzz. This is telling me that there's an increased risk of a wheel problem occurring (I'm riding a Gotway folks ) when hitting obstacles at high speed. At lower speeds I never get the alarm to trip. So this instantaneous feedback mechanism has been invaluable for learning the potential limits of the wheel. Now, when I'm approaching a little tiny drop in the pavement when traveling very fast, I will slow down a bit to avoid the power surge. It's all about increasing my safety margin and avoiding potential face plants. Something for you Gotway riders to consider. I love the WheelLog / Pebble combination.
  22. 6 points
    Unwinding with a Mavic and Mten3 tonight.
  23. 6 points
    I'm telling you man, get that Marty BackeTM fashion merch out there!! T-shirts, hoodies, riding pants, MB wrist guards, Backe in Black riding shoes... the possibilities are endless! Some Marty BackeTM inspired apparel logos:
  24. 6 points
  25. 6 points
    Introducing the new Gotway Monster EXTREME (not really)
  26. 6 points
    Just to calm everybody down: My Tesla (and Martys also) is running without any probs! i am at about 180km and that in winter, with mud and the wheel stucked in mud, and rain and and and....running flawless (until now ;-) ) Who knows me: It is clear i am no Gotway fanboy...i hate their poor quality management and the poor communications about some faults. But i also have to say...it gets a bit better! For example they immediately changed the sidepads when there was a problem with punched motor cable. They also change the rubber pads...i have seen better, thicker motor wires, better connectors, a thicker axle and some other quality improvements! Is there still room for improvement? Sure, a ton of! But there is no need to get hysteric about 1-2 cutouts or burned boards....EUC driving in general is dangerous! You can have a whatsoever brand board or battery failure on every! wheel out there....you will faceplant or something will be destroyed. Your mosfet burns? In worst case you have a real, real bad short because of the mosfet and your board looks like that one...burned up and shorted away! So, Do i mean that these faults can be kind of „downplayed“? nope...but its much to early to to blame/bash the Tesla/GW in general. Its just that in the moment, the Tesla is that „hot shit“...where everybody looks on it. So its kinda normal there are failure reports,also! And on this reports is the focus....if you just look on the French board, there are much more positive reports and tests of the Tesla, and all people i know personally...they are quite happy with their new wheel.....and are (at least i guess that) the silent majority :-)
  27. 6 points
    All the members on this site advising you here love to ride EUCs. None of them are casual users by choice unless wheel failure, weather or injury prevents them; most have ridden (tens of) thousands of kilometers – often in a very short time. So their advice (like mine) assumes you will become addicted within days/weeks of learning to ride. As a result, the implicit assumptions are that you will want to ride as much, or more, for pleasure and exploration as for routine errands or short commuting. Thus, power, range and speed are often the biggest issues which affect the recommendations you will receive. Also, many/most members own more than one wheel and (want to) purchase their second EUC within 6 months of the first. As a new rider, you probably won't know what features will be most important for you until you have had it for a while and know how you are really going to use your wheel. All three options you listed are good choices in some respects. Also, where you ride will greatly affect what you value most in a wheel. So, rather than debating the pros and cons of each wheel which have been mostly addressed above and numerous times in other similar threads, let me suggest different decision criteria: 1. Save the most money until you know what you really want. If you know you can afford to spend 1.000€ or more within 3-9 months to get that second wheel, but want to save money at first until you can be sure how you will want to use it, save the most money and buy the S2 for 369€. It is reliable, versatile, and a good deal. However, you will definitely want a second, more powerful, larger wheel (16" or more) with trolley handle in 6 months. I think 95% of the community will agree based on the typical rider scenario mentioned above. 2. Buy the best wheel available at the best price to meet all your needs for as long as possible. Here, the 14D and V8 are very similar and closely matched, although the 14D should cost a couple hundred less. Both are very good wheels, and a few members actually have (owned) both. I would choose the V8 for its 16" wheel, and the 14D (14") because it is otherwise a better experience. So, if you will ride on rough surfaces where there are frequent bumps, pot holes, speed bumps, road damage, etc. as I do, then the 16" wheel is probably more important. However, if the roads are generally smooth and in good repair, I would definitely pick the 14D.
  28. 6 points
    So far all the swirl has been about ONE incident. When Gotway had the firmware issue mid-year, there were many reports of failures, because it was firmware. Until I hear about more instances I'm going to consider this incident a one-off with extremely limited first hand experience (where has the rider actually discussed what happened?). 70-miles of solid riding by me is showing this to be a solid wheel, even when the battery is at 15%
  29. 6 points
    Hello everyone! We are pleased to present our new collaboration. More videos soon 😉 You can follow our adventures by subscribing on the urban-circus chain; https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwmISDAOvr9bKoBlrxqxBZA, Liker and shared this video 😉 Find all their collections on their website; https://urban-circus.fr/ Facebook; https://www.facebook.com/urban.circus/
  30. 5 points
    SOOOO, some semi good news I hope! I just bought my EUC! couldnt give up this deal!! I am super excited to get it, make my mistakes and start learning! Any advice on the first MUST-Do's upon picking up a new EUC? I went with the NINEBOT E+, got an amazing deal over at new-egg, someplace I never thought would have any promotions or discounts but I think I did well....what are your thoughts guys? what can I expect? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7YS6FA2259&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-MT+-+Vehicles+%26+Transportation-_-9SIA7YS6FA2259&gclid=CjwKCAiAo9_QBRACEiwASknDwU3I40Afc09G5n4VI5s0vwfnV37a1_pX9HNU-B5_QucxbRhpOfb8TRoCP1cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
  31. 5 points
    It's a typical completely dysfunctional arrangement: I had an US Exclusivity agreement with Inmotion from October of last year, in it, I even anticipated getting screwed over in this fashion & had a clause in the agreement which read: "In the event that INMOTION is acquired, taken-over, merged, or sold to an outside party INMOTION will make a provision that this relationship set out in this agreement is maintained." One day out of the blue, the COO, Bob, wrote to me that they decided that they were going to team up with Shane Chen & rebrand the Wheels as Solowheel. There was no consultation, negotiation or advisory, it was a total fait accompli. I put in a fair amount of investment to promote the brand, giving away free Wheels—the V8 even got featured on UnboxTherapy (2.2 million views), basically the biggest review concern on YouTube. We were putting regular large container-sized orders, so you can imagine my utter chagrin by this unilateral action. The withered Olive-branch that was offered to me was that I could continue selling the V5F/V8 at 60% higher retail price as Solowheel, which I knew wasn't going to fly with our Customers. To give you some sense of how this Company now operates (left-hand-not-knowing-what-the-right-does), they continue to supply that copy/paste guy in Quebec with V8s, who has no problem selling in US through eBay or Amazon, & they couldn't be the least bit phased that it's killing off any lingering demand for the $1600 Glide 3. Solowheel Seattle looks dead, there's also no reference to any of the previous Solowheel products on the Solowheel site. What does this mean for the future of the Solowheel brand? It's hard to say, but Shane certainly doesn't seem to be winning much goodwill, look at the current fiasco of the Iota Kickstart project (read comments section), it's running nearly a year late, even though the development is effectively being run by a Chinese Hoverboard company, called Gyroor. I had the good fortune of meeting the CEO/Engineer out in Hong Kong in October, really nice competent guy. They had some working prototypes, nothing very exciting, like a mini-me version of the V3Pro, but without the performance & the features. What's that saying "Things work out best for those who make the best out of how things work out". Since last year, King Song now have a much stronger line-up, eWheels has a new Exclusivity Deal, despite perturbations in demand, the Wheel market only continues to grow from strength-to-strength. I believe the ultimate winners will be those with the persistent sticking power.
  32. 5 points
  33. 5 points
    Yeah, when all the mistakes in the listing are added up, it doesn't inspire much confidence that the person selling the Wheel actually used it—wrong Wheel size, 'kingsong' all one word, no charger, paucity of any detail info... I checked our serial number database, it's not in there. We really only started importing the 16S after May 2017, this serial is from an earlier February batch
  34. 5 points
    Today I gave up, at least temporarily. Waking up and looking out, you could barely see 50m because of snow in the air. This is when I was going to work, biting the bullet and taking the tram. It's OK, but takes twice as long.
  35. 5 points
    Kylo Ren has become the good guy in Glasgow
  36. 5 points
    ?? Both KS14D & V8 have max speeds of 30km/h / 18.6 mph, no? @e.motion what others don't seem to mention: You cannot go wrong with any of the wheels you've stated, just go ahead and buy one and start riding! You'll definitely discover deficiencies that you didn't realize were a priority, we all did! IMHO this is not a fair comparison, as the S2 is a 500W nominal motor, whereas V5D & V8 are 800W nominal motors. The higher power translates into faster uphills and less chance of instantaneous cutout/re-balance on hitting bumps at top speed. Problems will arise where you need to open the wheel. The V8 is by far the easiest to open out of all these wheels. Ninebot, even with it's aging tech, still has great re-sale, name value: the fact that you even included it in this discussion is proof of this. If you do purchase the S2 and learn that you want more, I'm sure it won't be difficult to sell it. Plus, the fact that the 2 cartridge-style battery packs are airplane standard friendly is a plus. You don't want to be carrying any of these wheels for prolonged periods of time IMHO. While the S2 design is probably the most refined, any trolley handle you attach will look unsightly and ruin the purpose of this design. FWIW the S2 has no headlight or taillight, and the side LED's are not the most visible from a front/back head-on view. Faster speed is not necessarily only about going fast for the sake of going fast IMHO. When riding alongside traffic like bicycles or even cars, not having enough burst speed to get out of your own way can be dangerous in itself.
  37. 5 points
    I got my new I5 --- my first experience with an EUC --- four days ago, so here’s an update on how things are going. First, I did get a sort of rubber washer (plumbing gasket sort of thing) and super-glued it over the power button, and that seems to be staying in place, so far at least. I need to turn on/off the power switch with my pinky now, but that’s fine. Sadly, I couldn’t easily find this gasket in black but rather white, and I can say that using a felt marker over white rubber isn’t the optimal design choice. But I’m more of a “function over fashion” type of person anyway, so no big deal. To learn to ride it, I decided that I would start out just getting a feel for it on the tile floor of my basement. This worked a lot better than I hoped; for one thing, no safety strap, so I could keep both hands free for walls and just for balance. And indoors like that I didn’t bother with helmet, knee pads, or wrist braces (all of which I’ll be wearing for at least a few days as I take the unit outdoors now). Having walls nearby can be a crutch (in a bad way) for this sort of thing, but I pushed myself to use the support as little as possible. I spent perhaps just 5 minutes at a time with it, but multiple times per day. Got to the point fairly quickly where I could zoom through the hall into a sort of “playroom” area of the basement without touching any walls, and then doing tight turns to return. I also worked on instead making a 90 degree turn towards a lateral wall, pausing there, backing up, turning a sharp 90 degrees, and then riding back. At first that latter process required a lot of wall support, but now I’m doing it more often than not without any support. I’ve not ridden the unit backwards father than perhaps 3 feet at a time yet (not enough basement space), but with practice that will come. I really agree with whoever said that if you want to really feel in control of a one-wheeled device, having some ability to ride it backwards is important. The other thing I knew that I needed quickly was to be able to mount without a support, which isn’t nearly as challenging a process to learn on a EUC as it is on a conventional (non-motorized) unicycle (where getting it wrong often means that the pedal whacks you hard in the shin). Really just a push-off and hop up, trying to place the other foot in the right spot on the support. I suspect this will be more of a challenge on hills or rough ground; TBD. So last night (literally just by the light of one lone street lamp and the EUC headlight) I felt ready to go outside, so I just did a quick sprint up and down the very long block that I live on. Without incident, and feeling pretty fine --- I do already see how much fun one of these can be. Got a little beeping from the unit on the way downhill, and not all THAT steep of a hill, so some learning to do there I guess; the battery wasn’t at full charge, so maybe I hit the speed limit, and will just have to slow down a bit in such situations (?). So next I have to get used to rough and uneven surfaces, steeper hills (up and down), curb cuts, and just being constrained by narrow sidewalks and the like. I don’t see a problem, just need a little more work. I think the backpack that I ordered for it arrives tomorrow, after which I hope to soon be confident enough with the i5 to “just use it” as last-mile transportation. When first starting, I really wanted a folded up blanket draped over the top of the unit, as the top of this thin EUC was banging back and forth against my inner upper ankle area, and I was quickly getting pretty sore there. So for anyone else who contemplates an i5 as their first and learner EUC, consider something like that. I’m happy now to do without the blanket, as it’s a bit of a PITA, “one more thing to mess with”, but I found it very helpful to start with, as is my wife now I think. I’m guessing that this isn’t an issue with a more typical EUC that’s wider and has integrated padding. Cool beans overall, so far feeling happy that I bought this.
  38. 5 points
    Yesterday I joined @Marty Backe and @YoshiSkySun for a hastily scheduled group ride in the local concrete flood control channel near Marty "has anyone seen my balls" Backe's house so he could test the prowess of his new Tesla on a group ride.In the bottom of the channel is a stream of water which is about six feet wide and six iches deep.I had crossed the stream several times on my Monster during the ride and has we were ready to head back,I had to cross it one more time.It was deeper than six inches where we were so I headed upstream to find a more shallow area to cross.The place I came to looked no deeper than six inches so I started to cross the stream only to realize I had mistaken the depth as me and my Monster quickly sank to my knees.The Monster was totally submerged for 2-3 seconds before I could pull it out and put it ashore.Needless to say,it would not power up.All that would happen when I pressed the power button is the simultaneous blinking of the headlight and rear LEDs.I borrowed @Marty Backe's multi-tool to remove the side cover to see if there was any water on the control board.Surprisingly there was very little.So I tried to power it up again and voila! The Monster came back to life and was just fine!Rode it another 15 miles back to our starting point with no problems.It is truly an amazing wheel.Now I know why @Marty Backe stencilled "Gotway" on his helmut.
  39. 5 points
    Good.I would use a dremel to ruff up the area that you solder on the strip.It greatly enhances the solder bond.
  40. 5 points
    The shape of the wheel has put constrain on the shape of the battery pack but still, there IS a flaw : one strip missing and the melted one had to support 2x stronger current / heat. Otherwise you could almost divide by two the number of strips in the whole pack. Also there is another case. A french guy who only did some meters in his office. The melting occured just after charging the wheel for the first time. Not like @Marty Backe, there were no hard riding... More a problem of board / gyro which put too much pressure on the battery as the wheel was acting erraticaly for a a short time before and after charging. Another case of lack of QC or of a wheel not happy with the transport... Looks like the use of a fuse could be a good thing anyway but what would be the good value ? I have had a +80A short spike in wheelog, while braking from 20 to 10kph in almost one second. I don't know how much that would be at the battery level.
  41. 5 points
    In general: Can you please be so nice, and dont put the exaclty same post/argument on several different threads? One should be enough! Just copying the same under 3!! different post is called spamming..... For the matter:Even if the Ks16 trolley seams to be sturdy....it is NOT sturdy enough to carry a 20kg wheel when pushed out(allready tested), and for sure probably also not sturdy enough to carry a 100kg person when extracted.
  42. 5 points
    Just trying out my new Sony 4K Action Cam with it's GPS data overlay on the finished video, ride around Mile High Stadium: Mile_High.mp4
  43. 5 points
    Looks like this nickel strip has to take quite some mechanical stress? Is it the only/one of the mechanical fixtures between the two packs? It melted nicely along the edge... From one website i found that a 10mm times 0.13mm nickel strip used to connect cells can carry 15 A. If it has this dimensions thats way too low to connect two banks of two paralleled cells. It would have to withstand the current of two paralleled cells ( ~2*10A nominal) - in combination with mechanical stress it mutates to a heavily underdimensioned fuse. As the nickel strip is also colored at the place it is welded to one of the cells i would not trust this cell anymore - could have easily got quite high temperatures! Edit : seem to be just 2 paralleled cells in total for the mten? So the nickel strip could be ok for nominal burden without mechanical stress, but still not for peak load with some deformation... Edit: would make sense that this nickel strip connects the the two 10s2p packs to a 20s2p pack?
  44. 5 points
    Damn this f-ing climate to hell! And tonight this shit will freeze...
  45. 5 points
    Guys, lets just accept the fact that we're all different. Just skip a comment if its not your cup of tea. No point arguing and expecting others to see things the way you do - we're all different. Ok? Now, let's get back on track with our favorite EUC dicussions!
  46. 5 points
    Supremely disappointing. Basically an utterly inaccessible, non-replaceable fusible link. Seems way under-engineered, even if your turnstile incident generated anomalous current load not representative of normal operations.
  47. 5 points
    So I got it Thursday and have about an hour of ride time so far. the first 45 minutes were broken up into small sessions on Thursday and Friday. Today I was on for probably 30 minutes and the last 10 minutes I've been circling the pathways and hallways of my apartment complex. I fell on my butt about at about 45 minutes of practice in (basically a bit after I stopped using the rail for balance) and realized I probably need a helmet and definitely wrist guards. I didn't hurt myself, but a fall is a fall even if I was going 1mph haha. It's scary and I feel every bump. Learning to dismount when you lose balance without tipping the machine is vital to avoid flip outs. Looking up makes it much easier to balance. Turning, stopping, and accelerating are all intuitive, but accelerating out of a 90 degree hallway turn is still a bit scary. I feel like there is no room to mess up on these or else you run into a wall or worse. It's definitely not consumer friendly. I expect 2 wheelers to be more compatible with a larger market. Going slow is just the same as going fast, but less scary and you feel the bumps more going fast. I think I went 12-15mph for a short duration, but turning is scary, especially while going fast because the wheel can accelerate different to the direction of your weight if you're not careful. I don't feel confident enough to ride this to work yet. Maybe next week. As of now I wouldn't recommend this as a commuter wheel, but this opinion might change as I get more comfortable. As for a beginner wheel, it's fine. Just know that it's going to take maybe an hour before you can ride without a hand rail assistance. My girlfriend was supposed to record, but I think she accidently hit the stop recording button so I only have about 2 seconds of video. It would have been very boring to watch as it was just me going back and forth next to a hand rail for the first 40 minutes broken up into a couple of days. I don't actually wear my shoes like this, but I didn't tie them yet haha
  48. 5 points
    Oh God I'm having flashbacks! Didn't know the Ninebot wires could melt, too. Pretty sure the reason is simply the wires are too thin for the high currents you can produce, so they heat up and melt their insulation and finally short together (it does not look like something got disconnected, so a short is probably what stopped the wheel). You can also see that from the bullet connectors (the thick parts that melted down) that melted their plastic covering (but didn't fail = disconnect). The wires and connectors just got very hot. The places where the cables and connector coverings touched each other or something else is where the heat damage appears first. You likely need a new board, if the short fried it. Also, either a new motor, or you fix those cables somehow (attach new cable "below" the bad spots and attach new bullet connectors). Sorry, can't help with how to do that. @Rehab1 did a lot of this stuff. Do the wires say what their diameter is (AWG rating or such, like 16AWG)? Both the ones from the board and the ones from the motor (which look thinner). Anyways, contact your dealer. Should be a warranty thing. Even if not, ask them what to do exactly. Also, not too much penduluming in the future, it appears the wheel just can't take such high currents for long. It seems to be inherent, not something that can be fixed. And if your wheels smells like burnt electronics, stop riding immediately -- For reference, I did this to my Gotway ACM by going up a long, steep hill (high current) and had the exact same thing (because the cables are too thin). Then later, I got the melty connector issue too. Cables melting their insulation and shorting together: (you can also see the AWG rating printed on the cable, but the more interesting rating is the thinner-cable motor side, not the board side which is usually thicker) I needed a new board and motor after that. Your mileage may vary. @Marty Backe had the same thing, as have some others. Melty connector: (it melted where it touched the shell, the others were hangin in free air and were okay, but they obviously all got hotter than they should ever be)
  49. 5 points
    They are fixed to the board in your picture and are supposed to be so. These are the motor power wires. On their way to the motor (the big black cable coming out of the axle), you have the bullet connectors. Each cable (yellow, blue, cyan) has it's own under the (transparent) heat shrink. Cut away the shrink and you should be able to unplug them. This is also how you connect the new board - plug in the connectors from the motor wire to the new board and DO NOT FORGET TO ADD NEW HEATSHRINK, IT IS THE ONLY THING ELECTRICALLY INSULATING THE CONNECTORS, IF THEY TOUCH WHEN THE WHEEL IS ON YOU GET A SHORT AND FRY THE WHEEL. ALSO BE CAREFUL TO NEVER LET THEM TOUCH IN DISASSEMBLY - DISCONNECT THE MAIN BATTERY CONNECTOR (the yellow blocky connector the black and red cable from the board lead to) AND SWITCH ON THE WHEEL UNTIL IT STOPS BALANCING/SWITCHES ITSELF OFF AND THE CAPACITORS ARE EMPTY TO MAKE SURE THERE'S NO ELECTRICITY LEFT SOMEWHERE THAT CAN PRODUCE A SHORT IF THE BARE CONNECTORS TOUCH. Also a good idea to separate the bullet connectors a bit to prevent heat build-up and reduce any risk of them touching each other without insulation (should the heat shrink fail for any reason, like overheating). Don't tie them together, ideally they should hang in the air separately. See here. Picture courtesy of @Tishawn Fahie. The golden things are the bullet connectors.
  50. 5 points
    Just received my first EUC, Tesla, today. I didn't get home till 10:30PM and got on it right away. It was dark so I stayed in my backyard. Was secretly hoping I was gonna just First Try this and get going. Instead I hobbled back and forth and held to the fence just to get both feet on the pedals. Went back and forth a few times, I can't even move a few feet forward without losing balance. Planning on waking up early before my doc seminar and putting some practice time in.
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