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  1. 26 points
    It had to happen eventually. This morning I met Andy (@Sven) at Chino Hills State Park for an exploratory ride. Neither of us had ridden this area before. Andy had his Monster and I was riding my ACM today (it can climb any hill). The ride started nicely enough but we eventually started on the dirt and gravel trails. During on epically long very steep section Andy's Monster overheated with a resulting tilt-back, and within 5 seconds my ACM self-destructed. It was a long hike out In this video (thanks Andy for all the additional video footage) you can see the ride and where I crash and burn as the ACM gives out on me. Then, back in my workshop I open the ACM and show the carnage inside (massive amounts of melting connector housings and wires. Oh, and the control board is toast. Seeing the melted wires first hand (and my riding weight is 170 pounds) tells me that I will never again (until they make design changes) ride any of my Gotway wheels for extended (>15 seconds) periods up very steep hills. It's clear that the insulation isn't up to the task. Mind you, I'm talking very steep hills, where you are crawling up. Enjoy the video
  2. 16 points
    It's with sad news that I'm here to say that my brand new (now scratched to hell) MSuper V3s+ is afflicted with the now infamous Gotway oscillation syndrome. I had just picked it up personally from @Jason McNeil a couple of days ago while he was out in California inspecting his latest delivery from Gotway. He's a great guy to hang with btw, and we (Jason, myself, and @Sven) had a fun little ride in some local hills. Andy, you need to post that video you made! Of course I tested mine a day ago by riding (slowly - which is key to remember) over various bumps, curbs, etc. No problems. Yeah! But this morning was my first opportunity to take it for a serious ride. I setup my camera and filmed a short mini-review introduction to my new MSuper (God I wanted to love this wheel) and then took it out on the road. As you'll see in the video below, about 3 minutes into the ride I'm on a sidewalk, probably not going faster than 15mph. I travel across a street and up on to the sidewalk, and that transition was enough to cause it to instantly oscillate and throw me off the wheel. My take away is that the wheel has to be traveling at a fairly good clip for this to happen. But as you can see, I was not exactly traveling at an extreme speed. Jason is screwed with his recent shipment, and I must say anyone who has received a unit within the last month or so is risking their skin if riding the wheel faster than 10mph. Even though I say in the video that I'm probably going to ride it, I'm not. As I rode home I couldn't make myself go faster than 10mph for fear of the oscillation. There is zero warning. There's absolutely no fun riding a wheel under those conditions. I have no clue how Gotway is going to prove any recent wheel delivery is without the problem. They clearly lied to Jason regarding his shipment, and he must be one of their best dealers. When I get a new control board (I assume), how will I know Gotway did anything. Who wants to gear up and ride 15 - 20 mph into a bump to test it? I'm sure I'll be more open to the idea after a few days, but not now. My left wrist and hand is getting worse as I type this Well guys, I only have my Monster and KS14C to ride now, and summer months are upon us. What a bummer. Enjoy the video The thumbnail is 1 second before the crash - ouch.
  3. 13 points
  4. 13 points
    First time out on the new wheel. She also hasn't rode a wheel in some time so you might give her a break. We have been riding around town since this and she has grown really fond of it. I will get a few more local riders opinions when I get the chance.
  5. 12 points
    I'm posting a video shortly. My wrist and shoulder is messed up. I have my oscillation crash on video - what fun I feel bad for Jason. I wouldn't recommend anyone ride a new ACM or MSuper right now. More to follow in new post...
  6. 12 points
    What was suppose to be a great Father's Day turned ugly! My neighbor was helping me launch my jet ski into our lake. Everything was going smooth after I backed the trailer down the ramp. I then let him hop in the driver's seat to pull away from the ramp as I began pushing the jet ski into the water. All of the sudden my truck started rolling backwards towards me. I jumped out of the way and ended up between the truck's rear fender and the wooden dock. Dumb move as I was trapped! My truck continued to roll backwards crushing my chest between the dock and the rear fender. Somehow the truck then stopped! I later found out the jet ski trailer had jackknifed 90 degrees and wedged inself into the lake bottom halting the truck! My poor neighbor had his own issues that I was unaware of at the time! He had climbed into the truck panic stricken after it rolled down the ramp and shut the door trying to keep the water from coming in. I later found out he had to swim through the window to escape drowning! Thank God the window was open! Both my neighbor and I are safe but my wife is pissed at me for not going to the emergency room for a chest X-ray. I suppose I should get checked out after looking at the big dent my chest put in the fender but I feel fine. The other dent in the fender is from my hand pressing against the metal attempting to get free! My truck is probably totaled after being submerged for an hour. If that is not bad enough my wife's new KS 14C, my drone and new goggles, camera equipment, iPhone, all EUC chargers.. all gone. This was a bad hit today but it could have been much worse. We are alive! The material items can always be replaced! Here is some footage I shot while I was still in shock talking about my truck.
  7. 12 points
    (If it looks like not all pictures load, reload [F5] until they do) BIG BATTERIES ARE AWESOME! Electric unicycles are awesome! ACM is awesome! Night rides are awesome! Did a 57km, over 6 hour (including breaks), mostly unplanned ride. Here's the story: So yesterday, after mignight, it was so hot I spontaneously decided to do a short night ride to cool off. Well, not so short as I went for a scenic church on a foothill at the base of the mountains, 15km from and 350m above home. This one (pic from Wikipedia): Mountains where you see them (and to the left), valley to the right of what's in the picture, 350m below you, great views! Being 1am, it was dark night though (so not too many photos here, and a lot of text). Only the ACM's meek light to see the ground before you when there were no street lights or other illumination. The first theme of the ride (in hindsight) is, "Wait, is this path getting even worse?". First started when, after riding through empty streets, doing a small detour along a lake. The path quickly went from farm road to overgrown footpath to dodging and curving around trees and their roots on wavy terrain (as well as collecting surprisingly many spiderwebs with my face), with the lake and whatever canals to the sides. You can't see them, but you hear there's water when a frog jumps into safety or there's a little splash here and there. But with an electric unicycle, easily done, and fun. After a while, I reached paved roads again. On it went, on deserted streets, through fields, or right through villages, nobody to be seen. Night rides have their special quality! And it was nice and cool. Upon reaching the base of the mountain, my personal new hobby began: worrying about my motor cabling and the current produced. Inclines were quite steep, 15% in many places, 20A says the specification, 30A or 40A says the wheel when going up. Oh well! This can be done by doing breaks every few minutes, to prevent possible overheating. Took very many screenshots of the Wheellog current chart on the way up [more about that topic some other time]. Besides this, the rest of the ride uphill was fantastic, through pitch black forest, through meadows with the lights of the valley below you, passing neat farm settlements along the path up. On a nice, smooth road. Finally reached the destination, on the ridge of the hill. The church is on a small elevation above the street, a big tree next to it, with a bench under its branches. Great views of the valley, lights of the villages and Autobahn laid out before you, the faint silhouettes of the mountains behind you in the dark. Unfortunately, neither my phone nor the old camcorder I took with me could make a decent picture (the latter gives you nightvision pictures though). Phone pic of the view. Same view. Camcorder pic of the lights in the valley. Well some of them. I expected the church to be spot-lighted as it usually is, but it was not. Second theme of the ride reared its head: "This is more creepy than I expected!". Very dark, cold wind from the mountains, and as customary, a cemetary with the church. The entrance being a few steps behind the bench I sat on. While my naked eye could see nothing besides a tiny candle in there, thanks to the flash, here are some official creepy-vision pictures for your enjoyment. With ACM, of course. Phone pic with flash. These are the kind of pictures where you photograph into the darkness, and expect some undead staring back at you once you look at them later. Fortunately, didn't happen Relaxing in the dark. After some time trying (and failing) to get decent pictures of the lights in the night, I continued on. It was 2:30 am at the time. Being on a ridge, I rode the road along it, to a small chapel with a view similar to the church. Didn't stay long as the wind was howling there and there were people not to be disturbed, so no pictures. If you're wondering, there are a ton of churches, chapels, shrines in the area; typical for rural Bavarian areas. Back along the ridge, passing the church, I decided to descend another side of the hill. I started to use my phone for navigation. This was meant mainly to prevent going on the main roads as much as possible (though in hindsight, there was barely any traffic to be seen, maybe 2 or 3 cars altogether). So on it went, downhills, descending through meadows and neat little farms and villages. All nice, wide paved roads. After branching from the main road, the route became increasingly side-path-y, smaller roads, more curves, until suddenly the pavement ended and I was on a farm road. And there was a fork. The navigation told me to go right, but it turned out the path ended at some trees, with only a narrow breach, overgrown with tall grass, to follow through a forest. Too much to decently ride, even with a EUC. So back to the fork, and going the other way. Surely, this had to be a better way forward. And better it was, though it would still hold some surprises (theme #1). The path went downhill steeper and steeper, through parts of forests and between steep meadowy hillsides. And always little to be seen besides the sky, the lights of the valley in the distance, and the trusty ACM's light cone to illuminate what's coming. Very much fun! Creepytime came again when I heard unexpected movement to the sides. Just some cows I woke up, though. Sorry, cows! Cows, plus valley lights in the distance. Then the narrow path got even steeper, and I did breaks every few minutes again, just to be sure my cabling stayed healthy. It was broken up concrete plates by now, overgrown with grass, and some deep cracks and potholes for extra challenge. And even steeper it became. Way too steep to turn around without having to carry the wheel up. Looking it up afterwards, it was up to 25% inclines. For a EUC, this is a lot. Even downhills. Right when the end of the last and craziest piece of incline could be seen, I underestimated an extra big crack, and gave some new battle scars to my mostly pristine ACM. Oh well... Anyways, finally I arrived at more level ground again. No more breaks necessary. But extra super creepytime. Picture this: an old farm in the pitch black dark, a loud dripping (?) sound seeming to come closer everytime you look in another direction, lots of scary looking sharp farm equipment, right out of a horror movie. And a Jesus statue, looking down at you. Took some photos by the light of the ACM and phone flash. Drip drip drip drip drip..... in the darkness. It's just a small, remote mountain farm, but not looking that harmless at night. Shed in the darkness, valley lights still some way below. Also, in the photo it looks like a EUC is leaning there Ninebot? Hey Jesus, how are you! To the right, steep incline I descended from. On the left, the path forward, only slightly inclined downwards. The path onwards was farm road, narrow but easily ridable. Here's a decent picture from a short part where it actually went up, to pass an old little farm. With another (creepy?) Jesus statue and chapel, naturally. I did not stop for a picture as not to possibly wake up the people there, it was still around 4am. You can see it's still quite steep on both sides of the path. It got steeper and broken-up concrete road again, so narrow and steep I was wondering if they could even drive a normal car up to their house. Then some sudden rustling. Some more cows to the side! They didn't seem to be bothered too much by me stopping and photographing, but when I put on my backpack again, that must have sounded like I was taking something out of it. All the cows came. In doubt, animals always want one thing from you: food You can always see the lights of the valley in the background. I had a fantastic view for the entire time (unless when in a piece of forest), the valley, the mountains in front of the sky, just an amazing atmosphere to ride in Some time later, passing another farm, it got creepy and funny at the same time. Sheep. Lots of them. And they got loud. Did you know, in the black darkness, sheep sound surprisingly human-like? Spooky! They all came when I stopped (take a guess what they hoped for). I quickly took a picture of the sheep/extraterrestials disguising themselves as sheep (look at them, you never know) and went on. They got so loud I was scared they'd wake up the entire farm (still pitch black night), thus the hurry. Left behind some clearly disappointed sounding sheep when I continued. Sheep, or Aliens? You decide. Some more descending, and it looked like I was almost down. Paved roads! Here's a shed along the way. As you can see, the sky finally got a little bright. Around 4:30 am. Reaching the base of the mountain, crossing the main road, I did a little break at a swimming lake next to the river. The weather was a bit too cold for swimming though, so I didn't (did that on some earlier night ride though, was fantastic!). ACM at the lake in the dawn. I continued towards home on the dam along the river, and it got brighter and brighter quite fast. It is summer, after all. These pictures are around 5am. Cute tiny trailer. No more pictures from the way home, as nothing much special happened and my phone battery was near 0%. It was mainly an issue of getting the 10 to 15 km home. But the ACM to the rescue, thanks to its USB port! Tip: always take your charging cable with you! Initially I wanted to make a stop for recharging the phone, until I realized I can do that without stopping. This photo was actually made by accident but this is how I continued. Being freed of the phone battery constraint (worried to lose my GPS track that was still recording), and not having had enough EUC riding yet, I decided to make as many detours as I could before the wheel would start beeping at me due to low battery. One of the detours, a short dead end in the forest, gave some more small battle scars to my ACM, and bent my phone's cable. Thanks to something hidden in the high grass. The ACM's USB port was not damaged though. Very sturdy little machine. Picture from today. I continued on, doing whatever detours came to mind, draining the battery. It's surprising at what comparably little stresses the wheel beeps at you with low battery. In the end, I had to go 15 km/h or less to prevent beeping at every small obstacle, hill, or acceleration. Finally, at 7 am, 6 hours and 15 minutes after I had left, I was home again. Tired but very happy. Not a single time did I worry about my battery status or not getting home, as I knew the ACM had plenty of juice left. I did not even start with a full wheel, probably at 85 or 90%. 57 km ridden, in what was initially meant to be a 2 or 3 hour ride. BIG BATTERIES ARE AWESOME! Here's the track. With time and distance ridden Start at the red Cyrillic letter and go clockwise. That's the end of the story. Hope you enjoyed. And learned something: in doubt, always go for the bigger battery. Absolutely worth it!
  8. 12 points
    A quick run down of what I have so far, my first wheel bought March was a Ninebot One E+ here is Australia with no research at all. Saw someone riding a EUC one day and was very intrigued so I looked up what they were. Saw a few youtube videos so I decide to get myself one without doing any research except on who had them for sale, the only seller who had stock was a Ninebot One dealer. I went and pick one up and only after buying it I knew I paid way over the top. After unboxing the wheel I used 15 minutes inside the house getting a feel for it in my hallway using both hands on the wall for support. 15 minutes later I decided to take it out and with 30 minutes I was able to go around the block felt very happy with myself, but my feet was killing me. Within a week or two the pain almost completely disappeared the body sure adopts to new stress points very quickly. The Ninebot One E+ is a great starter wheel for anyone wanting to learn it can take a lot of heavy drops, scraps mine got punished pretty bad while I was learning how to ride backwards. I don't regret getting it but in hindsight had I had know what I could of gotten for what I paid for it I would never have gotten it. If you are a starter I recommend getting a second hand Ninebot One E+ if you can find one around for cheap learn on it do whatever to it and once you're done sell it off to the next learner. I bought the Ninebot One E+ as a toy to play with but within 2 weeks I realised it was so much more, but the problem with it was the low speed and limited range. So this time I decided to do some research and stumbled across this forum, it is here I researched my next wheel. I wanted something which was powerful, fast and had a descent range as I had a 16 inch wheel already the choice was limited to KS and Gotway. Reading the Gotway forums I knew there were plenty of QC problems with them, Kingsong would have been a much better wheel for safety but in the end I chose the MSuper V3+ 1300 WH it was a lot more powerful had a higher speed and the integrated handle made it easy. I knew the risk of buying a Gotway right from the start so even if something happens to it or me I have no one to blame cause I chose it fully knowing some of the issues Gotway was having this was right at the time of the melting cables. One the 4th week of starting my MSuper arrived, it was matte black looked really good but boy was it heavy compared to the Ninebot One E+. The riding style was completely different to the Ninebot One E+, it took a few days to get use to the way it rides. Since having it I have ridden it to work almost everyday that hasn't rained and have completely neglected the poor Ninebot. The MSuper is such a beautiful wheel yes the motor is loud, but it is so comfortable, smooth and stable, I average close to 30kph and she purrs along ever so gently, I choose to ride in the powerful mode and nowadays I leave the other settings to the preset. I don't even hear the first alarm until 32kph. I am sort on the light side which helps being only 65 kilos and with my gear on around 70 kilos max. I have taken the MSuper to over 40+kph a few times even at this speed I haven't heard the final alarm maybe it is because of my weight. The MSuper does this speed so easily, I can see why it would be easy to get hurt badly so I recommend leaving it on the factory settings until you feel more comfortable even than anything over 30+ kph is stupid if you're not wearing full safety gear so please keep that in mind. The good thing about Gotway you can decide what you want, you are free to change the setting however you please actually this could be a bad thing also but hey the choice is yours. Six weeks ago I bought myself another wheel this time I wanted a lighter wheel which was faster and had a better range than the Ninebot but was nimble for riding around the crowded city. Wow this wheel was so hard to get, no one was selling it in Australia, I emailed a dealer in Singapore but the postage was almost the price was the wheel, I emailed Jason who was very nice with his prompt reply saying he doesn't ship to Australia due to high postage costs, I even called manufacturer and was told that they won't have a wheel till mid June and if I wanted one I had to pay and wait. After almost giving up I found a ali seller who had it for sale, so I bought one but it took almost 6 weeks to get to me but at least it turned up yesterday. The new wheel I got was the Inmotion V8 and yes it is the international version as my app works perfectly, my impressions so far after using it for a whole day. First off the wheel is beautiful I think it's the best looking wheel out of the ones I have, the pedal is also the grippiest of the lot. The front light is the brightest out of my 3 wheels, the side panel lighting show is also very bright and is customisable should you be into creating your own. I am 180cm tall and the integrated handle is such a good height unlike the MSuper which is a little on the low side, The button on the handle omg what a brilliant idea why don't all EUC's have this feature, the pedal height is great for a 16 inch wheel almost the same as my MSuper so it won't get too scratched. The negative is after pumping the wheel up to 55 psi the tyre scraps the front plastic every now and then so I had to reduce the tyre pressure to 45 psi in order to stop this, not sure if this is a bad design flaw or just me getting a bad wheel. I give it a few more days and if I find more negatives I will post otherwise that's about it. Now having had 3 wheel I can say without doubt the Ninebot One E+ is never going to be used by me again, thought I was going to play around with it but now it's time for me to try harder to get rid of it even at a great lose. The V8 is a great wheel for what I bought it for it will serve it's purpose and in the coming weeks I am sure it will grow on me a lot more. Having own the 3 wheels I can say without doubt why I love my Gotway Msuper, the V8 feels fast and scary for some strange reason at the max speed of 30kph where as the MSuper is just cruising along nicely. The V8 is pretty comfortable but in no way can it compare to the MSuper, I read some where people were saying the torque was good in the V8 going up hills not sure if we are talking about the same wheel but my MSuper will eat it up up any hill on any day of the week. I thought the V8 was going to be a fabulous wheel, but it is only a slight upgrade from the Ninebot E + in comparison to the MSuper. The MSuper takes the crown out of the 3 wheels I have, if I had a chance to ride the V8 before I bought it I might have not bought it at all, maybe I would have gotten a smaller 14 inch wheel which is just as fast and a lot more nimble. Whats next my sight is set on the monster by the end of this year, just have to sweet talk my wife up a bit more. Now I know why so many people are buying Gotways, they truly are in a class of their own I have tried a friends KS18 he bought recently but it's not to my liking can't compare with my MSuper. Here is hoping Gotway improves on the QC I also would love Gotway wheels to be safer after reading all the terrible incidents, so far I have around 850 kms on my MSuper and it's still feels terrific touch wood I am one of the lucky ones. As they make more money I am sure the quality will improve, but with any electronics there can always be problems with things going wrong. I bought a Asus GTX 850 graphics card when they first came out a few years back it was expensive and i happen to get a faulty card and I went to get it exchange I had the same problem. Had to wait a 2 weeks to get another replacement as that whole batch was bad. This is just a short brief and quick honest review based on my own personal experience, this is so addictive like drugs and it becomes more expensive over time one wheel is never enough.
  9. 11 points
    It can be speculated, but probably no-one knows for sure. For the KS16S, it does have several merits (or limitations, depending how you look at them, like lower speed and max power ) in the design: -NTC-temperature resistor placed right next to mosfets / heatsink, measures temperature much closer to where the hottest parts (mosfets) are -Lower Rds(on) in a single mosfet than the parallel configuration used in ACMs, also avoids the pitfalls of paralleled mosfets, as low Rds(on) -mosfets do not seem to be available, at least not in TO-220 or TO-247 -packages, for voltages above 75V -Larger mosfet casing (TO-247), can take much more heat and has more surface-area to dissipate it to heatsink -Lower power, the components, wiring and motor need not take as much abuse -Likely more conservative limiting in max currents, probably warns of overtemperature with tilt-back or something (never hit it myself) -BMSs appear to be communicating with the mainboard directly (third wire coming from each battery pack) -Active cooling (fan) that turns on at higher temperatures, although how long it lasts with all the vibration and shocks, no-one knows I haven't opened it up to check the wire gauges, the connectors are MT60's, judging by pictures, the motor cabling coming from the mainboard would appear to be the same as the battery wires (14AWG), but whether there are as thick wires on the actual motor-side, I don't know.. If subjected to a high enough current for high enough time, they will probably also melt at some point, but I'd expect the wheel to warn you far ahead of that, or not even allow as high currents.
  10. 10 points
    Just returned from LA last evening with the objective of testing out the latest ACMs+ & MSupers that arrived from GW. Received the Wheels on Tuesday, opened one up to check the serial/date of the board, it had 170502. Immediately wrote to Linnea to get some confirmation on the state of the FW, since the date evidence directly contradicted earlier statements... She assured me that the boards had been reflashed the day before they were shipped out (see the below thread).. But that wasn't sufficient for me, I padded up & took a new ACMS+ out on a pretty gruelling trial ride with @Marty Backe & @Sven. The Wheel held up well with no apparent vices. Shipped the Wheels out yesterday as was planned. Today however, Marty reported this his MSuper is afflicted by oscillation fault! Conclusion is that either a) GW have no idea what's going on, 'b) they blatantly lied to me to avoid dealing with the after-service troubles. We're going to try to get some more answers this evening, but the Wheels shipped out yesterday are going to have to be recalled. ME: Linnea, I have serious doubts of what you tell me is true. Look at the below message you sent on May 16th, these control-boards are dated 2nd of May. It is the date of the board manufacturing & NOT that when the Wheels were shipped that matters. Please confirm ASAP!!! EARLIER LINNEA STATEMENT: "We double check and found that you don't have any wheels which was shipped out within May the 1st, 2017 to May the 15th, 2017. " LINNEA: We promise that your wheels are not within that batch of problem mainboard. You know that we upgrade the firmware at that day before shipped out your wheels. Just upgrading the firmware, but not changing mainboard! So the original mainboard label is still there. ME: If what you tell me is true, I will love you forever LINNEA: You may confirm it with the shipper too, I told her that we are upgrading firmware with your wheels at that day when she push me to pick up goods.
  11. 10 points
    There's no excuse for constructing a wheel that can put out 60A or more with wires that are meant for 20A or 30A. Obvious what will happen if you have constant currents higher than that. There's no excuse for constructing a car that can go 250 km/h and use tires that burst at 80 km/h. Obvious what will happen if you constantly drive faster than that. The "oh the wheels aren't meant for that" people are missing the point. Nobody complains the wheels can't do everything. The problem is, the wheels won't tell you if they can't, they break instead and crash you. That's simply a complete design failure, especially for a single-point-of-failure device as a self balancing, one wheeled ridable. No need to excuse that.
  12. 10 points
    I would recommend that everyone who rides an EUC considers learning to competently hop up and down a regular curb or step - both are really useful manoeuvres. For small hops/drops you should be able to complete these at normal riding speed. For bigger hops/drops - these need to be attempted at much lower speeds. Hopping up on to a platform is obviously a lot easier than jumping right over something. You have to be careful with larger drops - I have burst a few tires and even cracked off a piece of rim (see photo below) when doing big drops (I would classify a big drop as 80 cm or more). Rider weight, tire pressure, EUC build quality and terrain surface are obviously important variables to consider when determining how big a drop you can complete. The tricky jump is the "Bar Jump" - there is very little room for error :-) My personal record for hopping up on to a platform is 40 cm/ 16 inches.
  13. 9 points
    In another recent GW dialog, I stipulated that a minimum requirement for future order is that the BT module has the capability to pull the FW version from the board. Apparently it's not possible, because the module does not have low level function access. Compromise position is that the FW rev number will be printed on the box label. Similarly, I request that Distributors be given instructions/equipment for flashing when necessary. They're reluctant (in fact refused!) on the basis that the code could then potentially be used by rivals—in this existential crisis of credibility, this is the least of their worries right now!
  14. 9 points
    Did it throw you off or did it beep and forced you to stop? A perfect example of the board coped with the overheat situation perfectly (if it didn't throw you off) but the wires aren't up to the task at hand even with the 84V version. (no surprise there) (Oh, so that tape and plastic sleeve is Ok for 200C is it, as the silicon cables? If designing around a 200C cable then ALL components must handle 200C in that chain) My guess is that the sleeve of the motor cable is not silicon and so that has an even lower temp rating. This situation has alway been about the cable and will continue to be about cables ( the solder melted in the connectors due to heat from the cable (16awg motor cable) The bullet connectors are fine, and are much larger than 14 awg and can easily handle the current (have not sen spec so guesswork based on size). Even with the "new and future proofing 14AWG motor cable" it will fail inside the motor cable where the cables touch in these situation, they are not in "free air". Or in the connectors/solder depending on the current in the cable and sourrounding temp. Its so easy to calculate the size of that cable according to current, and heat! A rider should NEVER EVER have to care about what the wheel does, then its always "Well I think this is fine, but you say its not" situation. Account for outside temp, previous hills, omg that its just not how it should work. And the constant worry "is this the hill, must i slow down, have the wheel been in the sun". Not a comforting enjoyable ride. The wheel warns if its to hot and forces a stop, and so the cables and connectors must be designed around the maximum continous output from the control board. End of story, problem solved.
  15. 9 points
    Ridinng again in the moutains, the "14" EUCs are definitely the best for climbing when agility is needed !
  16. 9 points
    That was a good forensic post incident video. I think it reaffirmed a lot of what we have been discussing over the past many months. The take home messages I got from this video are: 1. Don't climb steep hills for extended periods of time without cooling down sessions every now and then. 2. Always ride with either @Ando Melkonyan, @Sven, or @jrkline.
  17. 9 points
    Wee J @ his school talent show, they were a bit short on space. We played a video in the back ground as he wasn't able to fit a flying trapeze or aerial silks in his school. LOL
  18. 9 points
    I designed a motor that has been patented in China, which will change the design of EUC.
  19. 9 points
    @dalewalker: If you and @Jason McNeil have some sort of personal grudge, take it into private discussion or elsewhere. People are reporting your posts, and my work is being interrupted throughout the day by the forum (which is always open in the background, I work from home with the same computer I use for my own stuff) popping up alerts & mailing me. I don't care who started it or did what and when or whatever, but I'd like it to stop. If this keeps going on, we're going to at least temporarily put moderation-limits on accounts, meaning your posts won't go through unless checked & accepted by a mod. At first I thought I wouldn't touch this issue with a 10-foot pole if I can avoid it, but enough is enough. I'm not going to start picking sides between you two, at least in the role/powers of a moderator, this is supposed to be a neutral and non-affiliated site.
  20. 8 points
    17-19 mph overlean on my KS14C, as I went up a steeper part of the hill. Went tumbling, scrapped up a knee and an elbow, minorly, and was up instantly. No bruises, some blood from the scrapped skin, I probably could have gotten away entirely unscathed if I just remembered to hit the ground entirely running. That should be instinctive. So there is road rash, minor road rash to be sure, but two rassberries nevertheless. Basically I think 17-19 mph crash is doable but sketchy. Lessons learned: be mindful of the slope even if you're riding not riding the 3rd of 3 beeps.
  21. 8 points
    WOW...Do I need to catch up! It sounds like you are going to splice together new motor wires. That should work! Use a 14 or 12 awg silicone wire where you spice. Given all of the wire melting issues I wished I could have finished my ACM mods with the silicone wire. GW should use the same 14 awg silicone wire coming out of the board for the motor which would then have less resistance (= less heat), a higher temperature insulation rating (200 degrees c) and 10 times the number of strands! Just look at the comparison between of 14 awg standard wire and silicone! The new 14 awg standard motor wire that GW upgraded to, in my opinion,is still suboptimal! . Given all of the melted wiring issues that have been taking place if I had the guts I would rip my new GW motor apart and replace it with the silicone wires. Unfortunately it is such a tight fit feeding all of the wires through the shaft! GW needs a larger axle! If you do splice the motor wires it might be prudent to go with the silicone. Also check closely where the wires enter the shaft. Remember that I had some rough burrs. The new GW motor wires are wrapped. Another thing to consider when replacing your wires and board is upgrading the bullet connectors to 4.5mm. The current bullet connectors are only 3.5mm. The less resistance the better! I was going to use a hefty 5.5 mm bullet connector but they were too large!. Well good luck buddy!
  22. 8 points
    Marty's failure was on the wiring harness, which should be one of the parts you just don't need to worry about. Things like wires and connectors should be properly sized so that they rarely fail and are protected/monitored by some other weak link in the path. We shouldn't need to measure everything inside the wheel because some things just shouldn't fail. Imagine if your car could get hot enough that the coolant could melt the radiator hoses before you received a temperature warning! In any design there must be something that is the weakest link. A good design should ensure that the weak link fails as softly as possible and with sufficient advance warning. The EUC makers just don't have this part figured out yet. Over the years we have seen almost every part of the EUC fail in unpredictable ways.
  23. 8 points
    Ignore temperature, if it gets too high the ACM will beep and stop you anyways. Watch the current. Per spec, roughly, maximum sustainable current is 20A (old ACM and msuper V3 motors with the 16AWG wires, dunno what the Monster uses) and 30A (new motors with the 14 AWG wires) so that's a guideline. Problem is the heat not being dissipating fast enough, so the wheel gets hotter and hotter. Both cables and mosfets won't (just) blow from a higher current, but from overheating. So the key is to make breaks accordingly, to allow cooling down. If you're in the spec, you can probably go on forever. After all, fast riding (in the flat) can produce 20A and nobody reported any meltdowns just due to fast riding in the flat. If you're above spec, just make more and more breaks the higher the sustained (average, peaks don't matter) current gets. Here's some numbers that worked for me with my ACM(I have the old 20A wires): Around 15% incline gives me (80kg and with my riding style) between over 30A average (sometimes up to 40, some higher peaks, but average matters for heat), and this can be done for several minutes (3,4, even 5) without any visible heat damage (opened the wheel several times to check). Then a few minutes break, then again. More or less 1:1 riding/break time (this may be overcautious, but since there is no other way to see what is too much without stressing the wheel too much = heat damage starting, I'd rather be cautious). So even with the old wires, 30A for 4 minutes is ok. With the new wires, 40 should be good (no guarantee! Maybe the heat will collect faster in the thicker wires? Just added the 10A difference). The hill I melted my first ACM's 20A cables on (exactly like Marty) produced probably something like 50A sustainably (guessed number!), if not more. Even then, it was over 5 minutes (closer to 10) before the meltdown happened, maybe 1 or 2 minutes before that you'd have heat damage. So even 50A for a minute or two should easily be fine. I will go back to the hill and see what current it produces, as I know 2+ minutes can be done without damage and so 30s or 1 minute is enough to safely read the current there. More numbers then. So the (sad) summary is, you can only check currents on hills and see if your wheel survives. It's a bit stressful and can ruin your ride's enjoyment, but if you want to do hills, some experience which "feeling of being elevated" produces which current is needed so you can go on rides (with according breaks) later without having to always watch your current numbers religiously. Also, the steeper the hill or the heavier the rider (higher current, which is all that matters for the cabling), the faster everything happens. I don't think Marty had 5 minutes on his 25% incline. So either the ACM was pre-heated from the lesser inclines, or he had like 80A current that quickly melted everything down. TLDR: watch current, slowly build towards testing what you can safely do, and in the end, EUCs aren't ready for real mountain riding (no breaks, no second thoughts, just go) yet. Or at least the Gotways are not, maybe Kingsong would be better.
  24. 8 points
    My God. What a horrible and scary day. That is truly scary. You must have been shaken, if not immediately some time later when you realized what a close call you had. All the material things can be replace of course. Glad you're OK. I'll refrain from making any smart-ass remarks, at least today
  25. 8 points
    I am not sure what happened when he panicked. It was my bad for not introducing him to my truck and the fly by wire gear shift knob on the dash. He said he was trying to find the gear shifter. Yes you would think hitting the brake would be automatic. He feels terrible! Things happen. I cannot be mad. Launching a watercraft is suppose to be fluid with everyone knowing what the other is doing. I have tried to teach my wife to back a trailer but what can I say, she sucks. He offered to help so I figured what the hell. Interestingly we did talk about that tonight! It took over 40 minutes for a guy to arrive with his front end loader. That would be a long time to have my chest compressed. I truly believe my son was watching over me on Father's Day! Love ya Matt! The truck was running. It has a key fob. The last thing I remember is pushing the jet ski off the trailer into the water. Not sure if he was in the truck, hit the gas and panicked. I may never know as I don't want to pry. He feels bad enough. His wife just called to see if I was ok. The bad thing about these new cars and trucks is the electronics. When the truck submerged in the lake everything locked up. We could not get the transmission or 4 wheel drive unlocked. The truck had to be literally dragged out of the lake and then up a car hauler ramp. The guy with the wrecker was not happy. Everything that was destroyed is sitting on my garage floor so the insurance adjuster can see what was lost. I had a bad feeling about putting in my watercraft this weekend. I should have listened to my inner thoughts.
  26. 8 points
    A little video from DC, rode along the mall to Capital then to Lincoln and back. I do not have the gear to keep the Sony a6000 steady or a way to cancel the wind noise. This is my first video on a EUC so be warn.
  27. 8 points
    I must respectfully disagree to set at least the record straight concerning my beloved KS14C and to inform others. I did not jump curbs, no drops taken, and am not heavy at 75 kilos and my axle went bad anyway! And also did not ever get over the hip pain hurting stage to ride one foot, still not, so this might have also added stress even for super short periods of time, but it sure seems ANY EUC should be able to handle one foot riding for extended periods of time! I just advise all those with maybe even ANY E U C, but for sure any KS14C, to check the spacing between the pedal supports "pillars"? and the wheel, motor sides. AND STOP RIDING IF YOU HEAR ANY SCRAPING SOUND AND CHECK AS SAID ABOVE! It also could be very well true that some axles are and will remain just fine, while others fail. I am VERY interested to see how my warranty replacement axle holds up? ukj
  28. 8 points
    Spoiler alert: The storage limit thing will soon be a thing of the past but not just yet. Hope I can get it done within a week or two.
  29. 8 points
    To me it feels natural. Even when my legs were very close to center it wasn't uncomfortable. I only moved my feet out to what is a more natural position because in the long run I can't imagine it is a good position to maintain. Someone told me it was weird that their thighs touched each other when riding but I never even thought about or noticed if it even happened. I was very excited for IPS when they announced a new wheel, it was my first wheel company, but the initial design and lower specs made me very skeptical. After a day of testing it seems like a very solid wheel. One I most definitely could own for the sake of just having a wheel everywhere I go. I drive a car with two seats and no extra space at all, this is narrow enough I can tuck it behind the passenger seat and not lose any space. My ACM+ literally doesn't even fit in the trunk and if I have a passenger it is a no-go. The weight and size means I can have this basically anywhere. Sarah from the video (or my profile photo) started on a 16 inch wheel an moved to an MCM4 as her daily. She absolutely loves the MCM4 but has been riding the i5 more than me and said she is really fond of it. It is the first wheel she has no problem carrying when needed and doesn't mind. Yes this is the 20700 cell variant.
  30. 8 points
    Do you know I've got this incredible feeling of déjà vu about these posts! Ah I've got it he must get some sort of PMT once a year 😂
  31. 8 points
    @dalewalker Think you should stop now, you're only making yourself and your store look bad. Many of us on here who have experienced @Jason McNeil's exemplary service via eWheels.com & WheelGo.com know he goes above and beyond just being a seller; he proves he truly cares about the betterment of EUC and EUC culture in general, when other EUC middle-men distributors leave you in the dust post-purchase. Jason helped me with my KS18A issues when I hadn't even purchased a single thing from him, let alone the KS18. Through my many subsequent purchases through him, I've only experienced the same A+ service, nothing less. I don't know what level of dealer you are, and you might be an excellent one, but your posts do not reflect this when you go after such a highly vetted, highly regarded contributor / distributor on these forums.
  32. 7 points
    I think this episode highlights the importance of the need for rival firms from outside China. The undeniable fact is that even with the top four 'best' manufacturers, with loads of experience, there's simply isn't an ingrained sense of the importance of absolute thoroughness in testing. Facts-are-facts, best to try to manage the situation responsibly.
  33. 7 points
    I finally have an i5 in my hands! I wanted to make a post to document the process as I test it as well as to try and answer any questions the community has. If there is a certain test or questions please ask and I will try to get everything answered. Currently waiting for the battery to charge before I start recording and testing. Super excited. First impression is that it is unbelievably thin. The width is almost identical to a standard glass bottle. IBC Root beer tested. It also is definitely light, I haven't weighed it yet but the shipping weight was 22 pounds as a whole so it seems to be on par with IPS claims.
  34. 7 points
    So we all know KS14C has a bit of a trouble with the axle cracking. The first time it happened to me I went trough half a year long warranty process and apart from the time it cost me 290 USD as apart from the motor itself I needed new board (old one is not compatible with the new motors) and I also wanted new shell and I had to pay the shipping and taxes. I thought that with new type of motor they would have solved the issue but no... after 1400 km according to the app my axle broke again! This is how it looks from outside when your axle breaks: detail after removing the pedals: This time I was so careful! I didn't jump the curbs I had barely any falls... but maybe it was caused by not using the spacers that come between the pedal holders and motor. I didn't use them because the ones from the old motor were not compatible with the new one and I didn't receive new one with the new motor. Tina said to proceed without them but I think that was the reason why the axle broke so soon because maybe I put them a bit further apart or something like that. Anyway I didn't want to pay another hefty sum for a new motor to have it broken in few months again and I actually had a new 500W KS motor on hand since they sent it to me by mistake at first instead of the 800W one. First I tried whether it will work with my board meant for 800W motor. No surprise, it doesn't . But the axle is the same so I decided to gut the never used motor to get mine going again. So I took both motors apart. And this is how i looks: The way the wire are connected to the windings Detail of the axle: Detail of the hall effect sensor: To remove the axle you need access to a hydraulic press. I tried to hammer the axle out but had no success, I only damaged the axle even more. I study a technical university so I just went to the building of mechanical engineering and after few minutes I had time setup when I could come to use the press. In the end the people there just did it for me because of safety concerns. The press ( very old made in now nonexistent country of Czechoslovakia :D) Video of the actual removal: https://goo.gl/photos/nJ5HVcn3ogqr8ECB6 Detached axle: To remove the axle I had to remove the cabling first and of course the cabling got damaged while being pulled trough the axle. The original phase wires were 1,22mm2 with plastic insulation the hall sensor wire were 0,22mm2 also with plastic insulation. The replacement cables I used were 1,5mm2 and 0,25mm2 with silicon insulation. So potentially higher quality but they were also thicker so now sheath to put them all together could fit in the axle so i kept them separate. Also as you can see they didn't have the right colors which caused me some trouble later on when connecting to the control board. I had them labeled but the tags fell while I was pulling the cables through the motor cover So when finishing up there was a lot of experimenting with the right order. I knew which wires were for hall sensors and which for phases from thickness and I knew which wires were the power for the hall sensors because these were the only ones with the correct color. But I still had two groups of 3 wires each. That gives me 36 combinations. Anyone who ever connected the wires wrong knows how crazy the unicycle acts if you do that :/ Luckily it only took me 8 tries! Those were some horrible couple minutes! To pull the cables through the axle I used the same method as @Rehab1 - solder them all together and use single wire to pull the trough. Thanks for inspiration! Unfortunately some of the hall sensors got damaged during the axle removal so I had to change them too. The original sensors were MT4451-A (TO-92 package) as @esaj helped me discover from the markings. I could not get these in Czechia so I used TLE4935L instead as I have already used them once on different unicycle and they worked. Damaged hall effect sensor: And here is finally the finished motor with new wiring and hall sensors: After putting everything together the unicycle works! But there are some problems. It does wobble. When I ride it swings back and forth a little. It it pronounced way more while riding forwards then by riding the unicycle the wrong way with the brake light forward. Anyone has any ideas what could cause this? Here is a video of this https://goo.gl/photos/WfKaDb1iGzgadY1p6 Also the free spin maximum speed is different in each direction it is 40,6 km/h in forward (more wobbly direction) and 38,5 km/h in backwards (more stable direction). So IDK is this some mechanical problem ? the bearing perhaps? I used the motor covers from the 500W as the bearings spin much better. Could this be the cause? They seemed the same otherwise and they fit with no problem. Problem with the board maybe? During the experimenting with the right wire order combinations some nasty thing were most likely happening to the board..:/ I will see how it progresses but please if someone knows what it could be let me know I would hate going trough all this trouble to have the unicycle break down again soon after. So in total this cost me about 20 USD. 10 USD for the beers I bought the people who helped me with the press and 10 USD for the wires and hall sensors. It would cost more if I had to have the axle machined. PS. There will be part two with the older motor from the first time my axle broke and new machined axle for that
  35. 7 points
    Unfortunatly that had not been the first time we had seen melted wires here.. @meepmeepmayer 's wheel had the exact same failure, completly melted and shorted wires and it seams for me this is a General design fault and whom to blame if not Gotway? Now after all the connector failures it seams to work out, that not the connector was the real culprit in These failure series, they were just -before the connector changes- the weakest part in the wiring harness. Now it Shows up that the 14AWG wire after the board the whole time was the real weak Point...... Marty is a very light Person, and even if he was going on an extreme hill in this Situation, the ACM -Gotway claimed that it can carry a 100kg Person and that on up to 30° hills......So at which degree and what weight are the ACM's "allowed" to fail then? A heavier rider might have had this failure on a much less steepy hill...And if 14AWG wires are 20Amp capable or 15, what does that matter if GW/ACM is pushing up to 60Amp through it? Dont get me wrong, i love my Msuper V3, it's a nice machine, but to have this failures in mind/brain on every Kind of Little steeper hill? That really sucks.....And to top up the cake with a nice cherry Gotway now send out a Batch of wheels with a "bump cutout" automatic :-)
  36. 7 points
    Ok, truth be told I underwent lumbar fusion surgery last week. Was able to walk 6 miles 2 days after surgery, and did over 7 miles the day after that. Now I can walk as far as I want painfree. I haven’t been able to walk more than a quarter of a mile before walking became increasingly painful in MANY years-thus the need for spine surgery. BUT, this means the V8 goes in virtual storage for at least 3 months-and likely 6 months or more-to let the fusion set. As I had been putting about 90 miles a month on it, it’s going to take some adjustment not being able to ride it. I’m going to miss it, but I miss painfree walking more! And for anyone wondering, one of the reasons I put so many miles on it was that the side to side motion of riding the V8 really helped relieve a lot of the back pain.
  37. 7 points
    I planned this trip long time ago after I rode 70km without break(except stopped briefly for red lights) nearly two years ago. This time, I created a route with least traffic lights and start the trip early in the morning to avoid traffic. Yes, none stop means no step my foot off the pedals during the 100km trip. I didn't planned this at first, only because I was lucky that all the traffic lights come across were all green, and I was not very tired. This trial trip is necessary for me to ride longer trip both for physical and EUC endurance. Vehicle: Gotway Msuper3s+ Internal battery: 1560Wh(1600Wh according to Gotway) External battery 1: 780Wh(60 cells of LG INR18650MJ1, 3.5Ah each) External battery 2: 260Wh(20 cells of Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA, same as internal ones) Total battery capacity: 2600Wh Protection: standard motorcycle suit Trip start time: 05:54:01 Trip end time: 08:59:01 Total mileage: 100.08km Total duration: 03:05:00 Motion duration: 03:05:00 Average speed: 32.46km/h Total ascend: 801m Xingzhe record: 26946089 ( http://www.imxingzhe.com/xing/27022635/ ) (scroll to magnify, click ‘卫星图像’ for Google satellite view, click ‘导出’ to download GPX file) Speed and Altitude graph: Wheelog record: Video clips: http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjgzNTQ5NzUyOA==.html Battery voltage after ride: 69.39V (3.47V per cell) Battery remains: 27% Battery consumed: 1942Wh Battery efficiency: 19.4Wh/km Average battery output power 630W Average battery output current 8.5W Charge Charger: 84V 10A and 84V 4.1A Time to charge to 85%: 1h30m Time to charge to 95%: 2h10m Experience --riding 100km none stop is possible but difficult --better to take a break for each 30km ride for long trip --fast ride or ride against the wind consume more battery per km --carry fast charger for long trip
  38. 7 points
    Yeah if there was a "Hold my beer" in there it could have been fatal!
  39. 7 points
    Hermans Kingsong KS16 took a three pillar vacation at Paklenica nationalpark, Croatia: swimming, climbing, and ... uniwheeling ! The swimming part: The climbing part: And last but not least, the wheeling part: :-)
  40. 7 points
    Multiple wobble cutouts on new Msuper v3s+ (7 occasions, 4 on video). Wheel gets wobble after some obstacle and cuts off.
  41. 7 points
    It was great ride, though it ended so soon. .. it was an honor hand carrying your wheel down the hill(s) lol lets conquer this park soon
  42. 7 points
    . OMG! #1 - So great that no one was hurt! #2 - Put the truck (and everything that was in it) into a huge bag of rice... 3-4 days, and it'll all be fine!
  43. 7 points
    Okay, this may be just another crazy idea but hey, I figured I would throw it out there. There is a bike trail from Washington DC to Pittsburgh PA called the Great Allegheny Passage that seems like it would be a fun trip: https://gaptrail.org/ I checked and their official policy allows EUCs. If they don't check the rating on the motor you could even ride a Gotway Monster! "Bicycles with an Electric Assist System are considered to be any unicycle, bicycle, tricycle, or quadracycle with an electric motor not exceeding 750 watts of power, a maximum weight of 100 pounds, pedal-assist, and top-speed utilized not in excess of 15 miles per hour, or less if otherwise noted.* *This definition is in compliance with the Consumer Product Safety Commission Public Law 107–319, 116 Stat., Act 2776 and the Federal Highway Administration Title 23, United States Code 217." Just to give you an idea of pace and time, take a look at some of the organized tour sites. They have people covering about 50 miles a day which should be easily doable for most EUCs and leave some time for off-trail exploration. The entire trip takes 6 days. https://wilderness-voyageurs.com/adventures/pittsburgh-to-dc-gap-and-co-bike-tour/ Pittsburgh area also has the steepest street in the United States if you want to test your EUC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canton_Avenue I am completely out of vacation this year but would really love to do this some day.
  44. 7 points
    I walk the wheel down, no exceptions. However, I have occasionally dropped off a sidewalk by accident on my V5F, once was a huge drop (to me) and...nothing. The wheel did not skip, there was no loud noise, there was no heavy impact, nor loss of balance. It's as if you'd be better off just pretending the drop doesn't exist. I've fallen many times by slowing quickly and bailing when my wheel gets stuck. Saying that, I absolutely do not drop down any curb. Well, if it's an inch high, and even then I do not do that on my KS14C. Now going up small curbs using a little hop, that's a lot of fun and I do that a lot. Approach the curb (maybe 3 inches max), cruising slowly, bent forward with bent knees, and right when the front tire catches the lip of the curb jump up! I don't squeeze the wheel at all but rather just let it crawl awesomely up and over the curb. Occasionally I make a perfect leap but much more often I'm a bit (or a lot) of balance. Great fun! You'd be surprised at how much fear is involved in jumping up a tiny curb like that which, realistically, you'd have to be a total dork to injure yourself, but I assure you I chicken out plenty of times when approaching a curb to jump. Some of those curbs look like this to me...
  45. 7 points
    Lately, GotWay's seemingly below average quality standards in combination with the risk exposure merely from the high speed these beasts allow, became the catalyst for a more generic discussion about Quality Management and Quality Assurance. As this is relevant for all EUCs regardless of brand, I suggest collecting our thoughts on this topic in a separate thread. To prevent a wild mishmash of ideas (and risking to loose sight of some important ones), I also propose to separate EUC Quality Management (Assembly / Production) - in this thread here, and EUC Quality Management (Product Design / Change Management) - in another thread. In this place I suggest to collect and discuss all measures we expect any responsible EUC manufacturer to apply to his production of any given (i.e. readily designed) EUC model to prevent Failure of the wheel to keep the rider in balance when operating the EUC inside the advertised margins, Secondary risks, like fire hazards, Failure of the wheel to complete a planned trip, Failure of advertised functionality/properties (e.g. Bluetooth, water resistance) Poor production quality reducing the lifespan of the EUC or its components (e.g. by corrosion), Poor assembly impacting the serviceability of the wheel (e.g. by using glue instead of screws), Incomplete delivery (missing/wrong parts, screws, etc.), Cosmetic imperfections. Is this list complete? Do you agree with the sequence of priorities? Once we settled on a common list of goals for production Q-management, what can we do directly and short term to make it happen? At least: to start a dialog with manufacturers and come closer to finding and implementing the desired balance between QA efforts and price impact for each of the brands we love? My suggestion: we develop a questionnaire for manufacturers listing concrete QA measures and ask for the current way they operate, their willingness to implement the measures, expected price impact and comments. Next, we appoint one Q-spokesperson per brand we love and care about out of our membership. If we find more than one candidate for a brand, we vote. If there is no candidate for any particular brand, tough luck, you're out. Personally, I would not exclude anybody (except manufacturers and their employees of course). An elected Q-spokesperson can be a dealer, "fanboy", accident victim or anybody else who cares enough about production quality and feels able and is trusted to communicate effectively with a manufacturer. Those Q-spokespersons present our questionnaire to their respective manufacturer, explain the context and the weight and reach of this forum they represent (5000 members and probably >50.000 readers; @John Eucist can you help with some impressive stats?) and collect their respective brands responses for us. Dealers may utilize this dialog to negotiate production of special Q-Edition wheels incorporating quality improvements defined by this process under the condition, that they may reserve exclusive rights for distribution for max. 6 month - after that, any special Q-Edition wheels need to be available to all sales channels. Does this approach make sense to you? Is it fair? Any more promising suggestions to move things quicker? Would you even consider being a Q-spokesperson, if so: what brand? Manufacturer Questionnaire: this will become a multi-page list of questions and must try to include all the "crowd intelligence" from our members. Just to get things startet, let me try to write up 3 examples: Quality Measure: Written/pictured Work Place Instructions Do you have written/pictured work instructions for every step of the assembly of every currently produced EUC model available for all assembly workers? Do those instructions clearly show, what parts to use? Do those instructions show, what tools to use and what the correct settings are (e.g. torque setting for electric screw drivers; pressure setting to fill tires, soldering temperature)? Do those instructions include cabling plans and show exactly, how cables must be routed? Do those instructions clearly show, which parts need to be secured for vibration or humidity with sealant, glue or tape and how it must be applied? Do those instructions include decision making, which parts are fit for assembly and how to identify parts, which are not? Do those instructions include measures against ESD damage to electronic parts (like wearing a ground strap)? How do those instructions prevent high current sparking during assembly? By enforcing a sequence of steps, which ensure equal levels of battery charge status and proper sequence of connection. By requesting the worker to charge the batteries to equal level? What is an assembly worker expected to do, if something "does not want to fit" according to plan? Make it fit? Ask a co-worker for help? Ask an engineer/manager for help? Do you maintain a "white list" of parts/components, which may be repaired when faulty (e.g. connectors, incorrectly seated tires)? If no, do you maintain a "black list" of parts/components, which must not be repaired (e.g. straightening of a bent motor axis; exchange of a single battery cell)? Do you agree to show the existing work place instructions to our Quality Spokesperson? Do you require a NDA for that? For those suggested measures, which are not in use yet: do you plan or consider introducing them? Quality Measure: Single Item Tracking Data Do you keep complete records, which assembly worker performed which assembly tasks per EUC serial number? Do you keep records of all parts and modules purchased from suppliers with the respective supplier batch IDs? If so, do you keep records of which parts from which supplier batches were used to build which EUC by serial number? Do you record all failed parts prior to assembly, during assembly and after (i.e. in complete units)? For every supplier batch consumed completely, can you evaluate the number of good vs. rejected/failed parts? If so, can you differentiate failed parts by EUC model, they had been consumed into (e.g. failed MOSFETs in model A vs. failed MOSFETs of same source/type/batch in model B)? Can you differentiate the above by firmware revision used in the affected EUCs? If so, is such an analysis possible with little effort or does it require substantial manual work? Do you agree to show these records (without price information) to our Quality Spokesperson? Do you require a NDA for that? For those suggested measures, which are not in use yet: do you plan or consider introducing them? If so, in the form of paper records or as an IT solution? Quality Measure: Incoming Goods Inspection Do you have a process in place that requires an explicit internal release before any incoming goods may be used for production? If so, what is the qualification of the person in charge of the release? Do you receive complete manufacturer batch information along with the goods delivered to you (i.e. can you tell precisely, which items have been produced in which production run)? Do you receive trustworthy documentation along with incoming goods about the quality category of the parts/modules (e.g. "automotive grade" certification)? Do you perform a technical inspection of incoming goods before release? If so, by visual inspection (100% or % of sample size)? by non-destructive functional testing (100% or % of sample size)? by destructive testing (% of sample size or number of items per batch)? What test setups are available to you (e.g. motor test stand; circuitry for main board stress testing, metering equipment for sensors or battery capacity)? If so, own equipment on site or option to rent/test externally? Do you keep manufacturing batches of incoming goods separated until consumption in assembly? Do you agree to show inspection and test protocols to our Quality Spokesperson? Do you require a NDA for that? For those suggested measures, which are not in use yet: do you plan or consider introducing them? If so, what testing rigs do you plan to introduce? ... to be improved/completed! Obviously there are more questions to ask, like own quality checks by the manufacturer during and after assembly ...
  46. 7 points
    Considering that the axle needs to be hollowed out to have wiring come out of one side plus it requires a flat side or two, wouldn't it make life a lot better to just have a larger bearing and axle diameter? That way you can pass through heavier gauge wiring easier, flatten sides all you want and eliminate the possibility of axle breakage completely? Sure the motor covers would need to be able to accommodate the larger bearings and thicker axles would be needed, but in the end a little over-engineering can avoid problems from ever occurring. If an axle breaks once, it likely will happen again. Why not eliminate that possibility with some simple changes? How much can a slightly larger bearing and axle cost in the large scheme of things? If you ask someone do you mind paying a little extra for an axle that can never break, or do you want a wheel with an axle that might not break if you're lucky, which one do you think they would opt for after riding somewhere for 30 kms in the middle of nowhere?
  47. 7 points
    Still lovin my 84v 1300wh ACM. I had a 25 mile beach ride today, enjoying Venice Beach and all of its oddities (including my wheel). My odometer crossed the 600 mile mark during the ride. It's been performing beautifully. No cut-outs, false starts, calibration issues, etc. It continues to be my perfect wheel. Everyone deserves to have at least one ACM in their life
  48. 7 points
    Aren't we a passionate bunch of folks over here? My suggestion: let's concentrate our emotions to the joy of EUC riding and try to find a rational approach for the quality concerns at hand. I am convinced, we represent one of the strongest EUC user organizations on the planet, maybe the strongest of all. "With great power comes great responsibility" (Voltaire or Spiderman - take your pick). The EUC "industry" is young, wild and immature - Quality Management is not! So, let's adopt and adapt principles which proved to work for Quality Assurance and find the most effective way to bring our persuasive powers to the manufacturers and drive some real improvements. Today, GotWay is the object of most quality concerns, a while back a seemingly endless series of botched ninebot firmware updates had us worry and with the Rockwheel comeback, we may see the next quality debate in the making. Consequently, our approach should be generic and not restricted to just one brand. There must be quality in product design and in product assembly. From what I can tell, it will be easier to agree on common goals and desired principles for Production Quality, so let's start with that:
  49. 7 points
    Next to the ACM+, my current daily.
  50. 6 points
    I have my MSuper v3+ 1600wh for 2 days now.. Received it directly from Gotway .. In the first instance I saw that the motorcode started with 1705, so I am cautious.. But the serial is 170609.. so the build is outside the period that Gotway marks as the 'bad' period.. Thus far, fully geared up of with all kind of protective parts, I have ridden 35KM and tried everything to figure out if I can find issues.. Like taking bumps slow/fast/accelerating/decelerating, offroad, smooth asphalt.. For now I haven't seen any issues but I keep cautious and build confidence with the wheel.. It is a day and night difference in comparison with a 9B1E+... More stable, more rigid, going fast is easy, hard breaking is easy.. I love it :-)